How To Replace Your Motorcycle Clutch | MC GARAGE
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2016
- Your bike’s clutch has a tough job to do. The clutch is responsible for coupling and decoupling your engine from the rear wheel so you can start, stopping, and shifting smoothly. But the clutch’s friction plates are consumable parts that will eventually wear out and need to be replaced. Fortunately, replacing your clutch is easier than it looks. In this video from MC Garage we’ll show you how it’s done.
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Like brake pads, tires, and chains, clutch plates are consumable components. If your clutch is slipping or shuddering, it's likely time to replace your friction plates. Popping open your engine to replace the clutch pack may seem intimidating, but it's actually a fairly straightforward and easy procedure ( click here for a look at your Clutch Components ). Here's how to do it.
Drain Any Oil Or Coolant From The Bike
Place your bike on a stand and drain the oil. If you don’t know how to change your motorcycle’s oil, we have an MC Garage that covers it. Alternatively, you can lay the bike on its side so the oil pools on the left side of the engine. If a radiator hose attaches to the right-side engine cover, you’ll need to drain the cooling system as well.
Disconnect Clutch Cable And Remove Clutch Cover
Disconnect the clutch cable if present and then remove the bolts holding the clutch cover in place. Note the location of any locating dowels, which may remain in the case or come off with the cover. Try to preserve the cover gasket, which can be reused. If the gasket is dry, cracked, or doesn’t come off in one piece, then replace it.
Remove The Clutch Friction Plates
Unscrew the clutch-spring bolts and remove the springs. Then lift the inner pressure plate away. Using your fingers and a pick, remove the clutch pack one plate at a time, looking for damaged or broken plates. Stack the parts in the order they were removed, noting the location of any judder springs or narrow friction plates.
Inspect The Clutch Basket For Damage
Inspect the outer basket for wear, which will appear as grooves on the driving face of the fingers. Usually, it’s just the friction plates that wear, but you’ll also want to inspect your steel plates for bluing. Your steel plates are the ones with the teeth on the inside, instead of the outside. We recommend changing all the friction and steel plates at the same time, but if you’re on a tighter budget, you can get away with just changing the friction plates. Replace the steel plates if they look burned since they may be warped.
Coat The Friction Plates In Oil And Install
Coat or soak your new friction plates in oil and install them. There is no benefit to letting them soak in oil for hours-or even overnight. This will only make replacing your clutch take longer than it should. Replace the pressure plate, making sure it properly mates with the splines on the inner hub. Install the springs and tighten the spring bolts to the torque listed in your manual. The spec is usually no more than 8 pound-feet of torque.
Reinstall The Clutch Cover And Cable
You can reuse the cover gasket if it’s in good condition, but a fresh one is always a good idea. Replace the cover, reattach the clutch cable, add oil, set your clutch-lever free play, and ride! Recheck your free play after 100 miles or so.
Dispose Of Your Old Oil And Used Clutch Plates Properly
Just like with every other motorcycle maintenance task that you complete, always dispose of the spent materials properly. Don’t go throwing the oil down your sink drain or in the apartment dumpster. Take it to your local auto parts store and they should have a recycling area for you to pour it into. Ride safe and have fun!
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Again MC garage killing it with the how to. My DIY confidence is boosted after watching these. BTW where can i get that shirt?!
Nice promo man. Are you paid?
Great straight forward video. Two additional tips- video tape yourself removing the plates or take pictures of each step to make sure your new plates are going on the same direction and order as the old ones were. It only takes a minute extra and will save you a lot of frustration when the dog comes in and bumps into your nicely laid out removed plates...Also, loosen (and re-tighten) the spring bolts in a "star" pattern to avoid warp.
Been watching a lot of these vids from the MC garage, and I must say they are the best how to videos out there. Simple, Short and straight to the point. Fair play lads, keep up the good work. Thanks from Ireland.
Honestly one of the best and to the point videos I’ve seen. Thanks man. Getting ready to replace my OEM clutch now. This definitely helped me learn quickly An saves me a lot of money having to deal with a shop doing it.
i love this channel. Ive been working on cars my entire life but its funny, theres no real classes or anything on fixing up old bikes. but your channel is soooo useful. MC university
Few issues with this video. First, you should never remove the clutch springs and bolts one at a time. They should all be loosened at equal intervals until the pressure is off the springs. Taking them out one at a time can damage the pressure plate, springs and bolts. Second issue: There is a specific direction that clutch plates need to be installed in the pack. THEY MUST ALL BE INSTALLED THE SAME DIRECTION. Installing the plates in different directions can cause abnormal wear and heat generation in the clutch pack. The owner manual should always be referenced.
Thank you man really appreciate the info
I don't think he cares about damaging plates if he is replacing
Another thing: Not all clutches require being bathed in oil. Reference your bike’s service manual to find out if your clutch is wet or dry or semi-wet.
Moral knowledge work comment hi I am read this comment many more knowledge gain thank you
Hot damn! Lol❤
I'd love to see a how to video on pulling a bike out of long term storage (couple of years). Your content is top notch and so easy to follow. Keep up the great work.
The best videos I have ever seen on the internet, explained perfectly and to the point inspiring confidence in one's self.
Loving all the videos you make Ari. They help alot!!
You make things look so easy!
Loving the simplicity of your videos. Thanks!
never reuse a gasket. it will only lead to seal leaks. it is always better to do it right the first time.
This is anecdotal i re use mine all the time of they are in good condition and haven't had one leak
Yeah guys, I mean who you gonna believ, some random dude in the comment section of RUclips, or motorcycle magazine? Yeah that’s what I thought.
@@isaactaylor7296 He wanted to sound smart but you can tell he didn't really know what he was talking about. "reusing a gasket will lead to seal leaks"
When the OEM gasket cost $10, replace the gasket. Dont be cheap.
Do it right the first time around. Not the second time.
If you can't afford a 10$ gasket, you probably shouldn't own a motorcycle 🤦♂️
@@alotl1kevegas860 I agree. Of course sometimes you can use and get away with it. But if shit goes sideways its pain in the ass again to drain your oil and spend a few hours on the job. Rather just spend $10 and have peace of mind.
Awesome video, definitely made this repair less scary for the first time diy
I really appreciate your work here fellas
These videos are very handy, and I'm sure have helped a ton of people.
You're my dad! Super helpful and to the point. Thanks
Thanks Ari you made this look so easy.
Nice 👍🏻 that takes all the confusion away for me , cheers for the video 👌
Very handy that you used my bike as the demo. Now I know how to do it if i ever need to change it.
wow this actually looks like something i can do myself!!! i'll give it a shot!!
Hey Ari, can you (or did you already) do a video on how to properly adjust your clutch lever and cable, specifically after a clutch replacement?Thanks! I love these videos!
Love these! Id love to see a video on brake pads at some point! Also way to feature a sweet bike. I test rode the gsx-s1000 at a demo ride and I was hooked on the sound and the way the k5 builds power
Very efficient video; no waffling on. Good Job
Good video, I like how you are starting to get into more complicated jobs
I like Mc garage technique and work so carefully and explain all parts how its work
You have an awesome channel there. I am enjoying every video so far.
110,000 miles on my 2005 CBR 1000RR clutch is still working great! Surprised so many clutches are being replaced!!!!
Dude: tomorrow is the day!, I will do this for the very first time to my motorcycle, I feel confident due to this video. spanish is my native language but, trust me the vídeo tutorials about this are a real shame and average.
Good vibes dude and I will update you about how it goes!.
Great video! You make it look super easy to do.
Very simple and helpful... Thanks Bro.. Hope for more videos on service maintenance
Thank you for the good work on your videos!
Nice video there man. Helps me out alot!
best diy channel out there.
I don't ever plan on doing this b/c I'm scared to fudge something up. Still watched b/c such good videos
Great and easy understandable video!
the most clear video so far for the tutorial
Nice brothah, this makes me want to take this project on myself.
Wow what a great video! That looks easy as hell, no worries about doing some extra clutch up wheelies. I can fix it if it creates an issue down the line
Fixing to fix mine from them wheelies 🤣😏
Awesome video! Thank you very much. Which side does the wave washer seat go on to the motorcycle? I have the same motorcycle, and I’m not sure which way to put the rings back on to the bike. Thanks!
very informative video , however would like to learn also should we upgrade our clutches, spring rates what are the benefits of upgrading to a fancy clutch plate ? or stiffer springs.
Love these videos!!!!
super informative short video... thanks a lot from malaysia
Very helpful thanks dude
I just installed a new clutch kit on a 2012 R6; and a couple of learning experiences. It said in the service manual to drain the coolant and remove the water pump. This was totally not necessary and waste of time on my bike like Ari mentions, so I didn't do it. Also when I put everything back together I found there were markings on the shift linkage and clutch cover where the cable reattaches that need to be lined up and the slack removed from the shaft before doing so. If at all possible, I would highly suggest getting an OEM kit. They seem to perform the best and last the longest, plus they have all markings/part# to match installation instructions in your service manual. Some plates are thicker/thinner than others and need to be installed in the right sequence as they wear faster from engagement. Lastly, don't drive the piss out of a band new clutch for a while so it can break in properly. The friction plates are similar to brake pads in this respect and you don't want to glaze them.
Brother can u explain me what is clutch plate? Plz
@@the6r471 The Clutch it self is made up of about 20 plates that stack inside the case.
its look very easy for you , but for me its very difficult. thank you very much for a informative video
"Gaskets are cheap"...unless they are from BMW :D
i love how he makes it look so easy
I have just changed my oil, coolant and break fluid... I am happy that youtube considers I should go the next level 😂😂😂
Great video...thanks!
nice how to video, keep up the good work!
I wish it was that easy on a car.
Ditch the car, ride a bike :D
Most cars I've worked on...
Step 1. If Audi, remove entire front end of car.
Step 1a. Remove the engine
Step 2. Realize step 1 is nowhere near as straightforward as it sounds.
Step 3. Bust your knuckles because some fucking bolt has seized after 180k miles.
Step 4. Replace the clutch after a weekend of swearing.
+MozzaBurger Damn right, brother!!
Depends on the car. FWD cars are hard because they have transaxles. RWD cars should be pretty straight forward.
New subscriber after this video, thanks!
Nice vids ! Thanks. I have a 2005 Suzuki Boulevard M50. I suspect clutch or transmission troubles. Seems to shift into all gears but, when clutch lever is released I get no forward motion and a terrible whining or possibly gnashing noise. Any thoughts ? Also do I need to go thru the clutch to get to the transmission? Would you reccommend a transmission rebuild for a first time DIY project ? I am mechanically inclined but, have never done anything on a bike .
Great video. My clutch lever, when pulled, does not go back out. The arrow and dot on clutch cover were lined up. Should I undo the spring on the clutch cover and realign it? There's tension, but it's almost like the cable is too long now. Please help.
Its an intimidating job but seeing how its done shows it is really simple.
clear instructions as always!
Any kind of multi purpose grease can be applied to the edges of clutch cover before installing it, is that ok or else it may react with engine oil?
Hi, I own a gsx s 1000. I wanted to clean the sprocket side case as mud and chain spray had accumulated. I removed the left side cover, removed clutch cable and while cleaning I took the push rod out. After cleaning I fixed everything back and the immediate change that I noticed was the clutch lever play was gone.
Superb.....nice clip.....
Do a valve check how-to so I don't have to pay a dealer to do it!
yes
please do
yes please
Yes....Always feel I'm getting ripped off on that one. Pretty much have to take their word for it when they say they did something!
TRexHeliPilot they really did check the valve clearence you can hear that if you are educated but they charge more hours than what it took them thats the problem in my eyes
Yes...do a valve check on an Interceptor...or a Ducati... >: )
short, informative, sweet
My bike broke to pieces the clutches and the separator and judder spring was gone, the new kit didn't came with them and i installed it without the metal separator and judder spring. It runs good but.... can it be harmful to the bike?
Just changed the clutch in my 2018 suzuki c90 boulevard, but after I put everything back together I have no pressure in the clutch handle. Is this normal? Do I need to start the bike to get pressure in the handle?
Doing this soon on my 2000 zx6r. found replacement clutch packs on Dennis Kirk but one is steel and one is Kevlar. Any suggestions on which to buy or why?
Hi Ari, please tell me what happend if we dont soak the friction plates in oil for at least an hour. thank u!
great tip!!
Great videos Ari. Is that the Fixit T handle torque wrench?
Ari
The judder spring has a slight cone shape to it. I've been told cone taper in and cone taper out. Does it really matter? Mine does not have a factory dot painted on it.
hi. i just want to know, how to replace cluch basket dampers of cb 110
In Boxer engines like in the BMW R 1200 GS, I gues this procedure is quite diferente.Can you do a vídeo on the same clutch replacement?
is there any chance to mess this up ? and if you do, will you notice it outright or during riding out of a sudden ?
great video!
Judder spring should be in convex or concave position?
Should you change your oil early after a new clutch instal? Because of break in and fibers etc.
Is there a break in Procedure?
Hey Ari,
If I may ask, why did you go for the gsx s1000f and not the naked?
very simple and straightforward unlike cars omg
Could you make a video explaining some signs you would notice if your clutch is going out? Absolutely great videos though
Can u us the old oil like if u have changed it 200 mile be for the clutch went or is the oil shot
i installed a new clutch cable on my sport bike thinking the old cable had stretched and it seems as if i can't get proper cable tension adjusting the cable at both ends. is it time for a new clutch kit? I haven't noticed any slipping but i do seem to have a lower top speed in 1st gear..
First and always check the clutch springs. They do wear out usually before the plates.
Do the friction plates have an order to go in ? Or just as long as the other plates are still in order it’s ok ?
I have a m 109r that I changed the clutches on but it would steal slips when I opened it back up the last two clutches and steel was severely tore up can you tell me why?
thanks for being clear
I have changed clutch pack in my bike, but now i have to run it up and down i all the gears to make it pick up speed. If i dont do that and just roll the throttle it dies?
I have seen videos where the new clutch and plates are soaked in oil for at least a half hour, is that necessary?
hey dont we need to apply some kind of sealant on the gasket before application?
Why the markings on the clutch plates? (the yellow ones). Also why is there an arrow marking on the pressure plate?
Make sure everything is right before tightening, I didn’t and ended up snappjng the clutch lifter pin. Just a heads up :)
Thanks a lotttt mannnnnn 🛎
do you have short video for Sym T2 clutch replacement ?
My 2009 zx6r is doing something weird.
When I downshift from 3rd to 2nd gear it goes into neutral. It's as if it's skipping second gear. My oil in the bike is still fresh and was changed a thousand miles ago. Does this mean I need a new clutch or is it a different issue????
Those 2 last identical pieces it sounded like you called it jutter springs. They stack on top of each other flat or is the last one installed supposed to be turned around?
I bought a brand new bike, Suzuki Gixxer 154.9cc. I have problems at cold starting even if only parked for some hours at the office. The bike has like choking sound or dies when i rev it slowly at low rpms but it idles steady and fine when the throttle is not touched.. Only at low rpm's from 1200-1800 it produce choking sound or blotchy sound. I already retuned a/f mixture, Spark plug reading is okay because it has brownish tip means my A/F mixture is fine and no oil fouling. optimum A/F mixture already, i checked air filter, it was clean and new.. I also changed fuel brand already, following manual required gas 91 octane rating above. I can only run my bike smoothly when it warmed up for about 5 minutes free standing and 3 minutes running then it's okay. I already drained fuel tanks before replacing with new clean oil. I even changed oil already and new filter. But my warm up problems wont be solved? all my bikes before dont have this problem. My country is tropical climate. Please somebody help me. after heating up it's okay, but turns bad again after few hours unused. i have to heat up again for another 3-5 minutes at noon before riding home.
Honda nsf100 no pressure on clutch lever after replacing plates please help
Hey bro,, I need advice, I've got a situation I have a 2003 Honda 954RR I have replaced the clutch plate and pressure plate and the springs. But now it's Slipping on 5th gear while going 80kms I change gear to 5th it's not even accelerating on a rev but soon as I changed gear to 6th or 4th it's running fine... before I changed it the clutch it was slipping on 2nd gear? What do you think I'm missing here? please help thank you.
Question; I have a 2018 GSXS1000, When I'm riding over 40mph and put it in neutral, at that speed I cant get it to go into 1st or 2nd without it grinding (forcing) slamming . if I slow to 20mph it will shift normal. is this a clutch problem or normal. Love all your Videos by the way
Should the steel plates always be replaced as well? My local shop only sells a kit with friction plates, gasket and springs (+15%)
Do you need to replace the Pressure Plate and springs with new ones?? And do you need to replace this part called the “primary driven gear set”
I'm having a problem with my 18 gsxs750. I was trying to do a burnout but it stalled a few times. And now I can't even pass 5mph. Does that mean my clutch disc are shot or it's something more serious?
My clutch is pretty heavy and hurts my wrist, will changing the springs solve this?
hello, I also fixed it on a cbr 125, but now as I put it together, the clutch has no resistance at all, what could it be ??
So my clutch isn’t engaging at all and the bike falls into nuetral when i try to shift. Will replacing the clutch pack solve any of that or do i need to crack the transmission open?