Great straight forward video. Two additional tips- video tape yourself removing the plates or take pictures of each step to make sure your new plates are going on the same direction and order as the old ones were. It only takes a minute extra and will save you a lot of frustration when the dog comes in and bumps into your nicely laid out removed plates...Also, loosen (and re-tighten) the spring bolts in a "star" pattern to avoid warp.
Been watching a lot of these vids from the MC garage, and I must say they are the best how to videos out there. Simple, Short and straight to the point. Fair play lads, keep up the good work. Thanks from Ireland.
Honestly one of the best and to the point videos I’ve seen. Thanks man. Getting ready to replace my OEM clutch now. This definitely helped me learn quickly An saves me a lot of money having to deal with a shop doing it.
Few issues with this video. First, you should never remove the clutch springs and bolts one at a time. They should all be loosened at equal intervals until the pressure is off the springs. Taking them out one at a time can damage the pressure plate, springs and bolts. Second issue: There is a specific direction that clutch plates need to be installed in the pack. THEY MUST ALL BE INSTALLED THE SAME DIRECTION. Installing the plates in different directions can cause abnormal wear and heat generation in the clutch pack. The owner manual should always be referenced.
Another thing: Not all clutches require being bathed in oil. Reference your bike’s service manual to find out if your clutch is wet or dry or semi-wet.
i love this channel. Ive been working on cars my entire life but its funny, theres no real classes or anything on fixing up old bikes. but your channel is soooo useful. MC university
I'd love to see a how to video on pulling a bike out of long term storage (couple of years). Your content is top notch and so easy to follow. Keep up the great work.
When the OEM gasket cost $10, replace the gasket. Dont be cheap. Do it right the first time around. Not the second time. If you can't afford a 10$ gasket, you probably shouldn't own a motorcycle 🤦♂️
@@alotl1kevegas860 I agree. Of course sometimes you can use and get away with it. But if shit goes sideways its pain in the ass again to drain your oil and spend a few hours on the job. Rather just spend $10 and have peace of mind.
Dude: tomorrow is the day!, I will do this for the very first time to my motorcycle, I feel confident due to this video. spanish is my native language but, trust me the vídeo tutorials about this are a real shame and average. Good vibes dude and I will update you about how it goes!.
I just installed a new clutch kit on a 2012 R6; and a couple of learning experiences. It said in the service manual to drain the coolant and remove the water pump. This was totally not necessary and waste of time on my bike like Ari mentions, so I didn't do it. Also when I put everything back together I found there were markings on the shift linkage and clutch cover where the cable reattaches that need to be lined up and the slack removed from the shaft before doing so. If at all possible, I would highly suggest getting an OEM kit. They seem to perform the best and last the longest, plus they have all markings/part# to match installation instructions in your service manual. Some plates are thicker/thinner than others and need to be installed in the right sequence as they wear faster from engagement. Lastly, don't drive the piss out of a band new clutch for a while so it can break in properly. The friction plates are similar to brake pads in this respect and you don't want to glaze them.
Wow what a great video! That looks easy as hell, no worries about doing some extra clutch up wheelies. I can fix it if it creates an issue down the line
Hey Ari, can you (or did you already) do a video on how to properly adjust your clutch lever and cable, specifically after a clutch replacement?Thanks! I love these videos!
Most cars I've worked on... Step 1. If Audi, remove entire front end of car. Step 1a. Remove the engine Step 2. Realize step 1 is nowhere near as straightforward as it sounds. Step 3. Bust your knuckles because some fucking bolt has seized after 180k miles. Step 4. Replace the clutch after a weekend of swearing.
TRexHeliPilot they really did check the valve clearence you can hear that if you are educated but they charge more hours than what it took them thats the problem in my eyes
7 year old comment, but just to leave this here for anyone looking for it like I was; it looks like the brand in the video is FixT t handle torque wrench
this video makes me want to order my clutch pack and gasket so I have it for later, before the parts become hard to find or extra expensive.. 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 650. I love my bike. 13K miles on it, all me. :)
Love these! Id love to see a video on brake pads at some point! Also way to feature a sweet bike. I test rode the gsx-s1000 at a demo ride and I was hooked on the sound and the way the k5 builds power
very informative video , however would like to learn also should we upgrade our clutches, spring rates what are the benefits of upgrading to a fancy clutch plate ? or stiffer springs.
Great video. My clutch lever, when pulled, does not go back out. The arrow and dot on clutch cover were lined up. Should I undo the spring on the clutch cover and realign it? There's tension, but it's almost like the cable is too long now. Please help.
Do a - How to break in a new engine or a recently fully overhauled one. It's important to know how to do preventive maintenance and it's even more on how to avoid messing up a new engine.
Hey, great video! I did install a new clutch into my gsx-r 750 srad 1998. Of course new oil, complete set, even cable, lifter and liver. Unfortunately after like 500km the clutch did slip. I did not open it up the take a look yet, but I have heard that the iron plates has on side a rounded edge and that needs to face against the engine, the rough edge against the clutch cover. I did not hear about it in the video. What do you think about it? Could it cause any issue? Thanks in advance. Br.: R.p.
Hi, I own a gsx s 1000. I wanted to clean the sprocket side case as mud and chain spray had accumulated. I removed the left side cover, removed clutch cable and while cleaning I took the push rod out. After cleaning I fixed everything back and the immediate change that I noticed was the clutch lever play was gone.
Awesome video! Thank you very much. Which side does the wave washer seat go on to the motorcycle? I have the same motorcycle, and I’m not sure which way to put the rings back on to the bike. Thanks!
how do i know which direction the stamped plates go if clutch wasn't factory installed sharp edge in or out, or does it even matter as long as their in the same direction, after i changed the clutch all sharp edges out my clutch is acting weird, with the original clutch there was a slight drag until the oil got warm, now the clutch feels too free when cold and get that slight drag when warm, i don't get how it acting exactly opposite of how it should be, i was going to reverse all the plates to sharp side in on the next oil change and see what that does, have you ever run into this
My bike broke to pieces the clutches and the separator and judder spring was gone, the new kit didn't came with them and i installed it without the metal separator and judder spring. It runs good but.... can it be harmful to the bike?
I bought a brand new bike, Suzuki Gixxer 154.9cc. I have problems at cold starting even if only parked for some hours at the office. The bike has like choking sound or dies when i rev it slowly at low rpms but it idles steady and fine when the throttle is not touched.. Only at low rpm's from 1200-1800 it produce choking sound or blotchy sound. I already retuned a/f mixture, Spark plug reading is okay because it has brownish tip means my A/F mixture is fine and no oil fouling. optimum A/F mixture already, i checked air filter, it was clean and new.. I also changed fuel brand already, following manual required gas 91 octane rating above. I can only run my bike smoothly when it warmed up for about 5 minutes free standing and 3 minutes running then it's okay. I already drained fuel tanks before replacing with new clean oil. I even changed oil already and new filter. But my warm up problems wont be solved? all my bikes before dont have this problem. My country is tropical climate. Please somebody help me. after heating up it's okay, but turns bad again after few hours unused. i have to heat up again for another 3-5 minutes at noon before riding home.
soak for few hours into oil?is that necessary?usually if we go to workshop they will install for you on the spot any harm if we dont soak it into oil long enough?..sorry for my bad english
There is one missing part. The outer springs that the bolts go into weaken from heat. Don't take my word for it, your manual will call out their free length. If you don't replace them as well, you won't get the full life out of the new set of clutch fiber plates. 2002 Suzuki Vstrom 1000 with 74K miles. On my bike, there is also a coarse oil screen just below the clutch pack that you should remove and clean while there.
Remember the last friction plate doesn’t go into the teeth like all the others, the last one goes into to the clutch teeth in The case that keeps is stationary.. Also if you have a newer bike youll probably have two friction plates which are different to the rest, the cork material will be bigger than the rest.. these go on the outside of the pack, so it will be the first and last friction plate you put in..
Doing this soon on my 2000 zx6r. found replacement clutch packs on Dennis Kirk but one is steel and one is Kevlar. Any suggestions on which to buy or why?
just a question about a different bike I changed the clutch plates on my rsv4. but for some reason the clutch is tooo loose like the wire doesn't even make the clutch engage. so was wondering if I did something wrong while stacking the plates back in. Is there a certain way the clutch plates have to be put in I mean the groved end on the outside of the friction plate have to be in the same slot or I didn't allign that clutch shaft to the clutch center dongle like thingy (lol sry don't know what's its called) its totally different from the cbr600rr I have. please helllllp!
this post maybe help you.if you find the solution plz tell us Few issues with this video. First, you should never remove the clutch springs and bolts one at a time. They should all be loosened at equal intervals until the pressure is off the springs. Taking them out one at a time can damage the pressure plate, springs and bolts. Second issue: There is a specific direction that clutch plates need to be installed in the pack. THEY MUST ALL BE INSTALLED THE SAME DIRECTION. Installing the plates in different directions can cause abnormal wear and heat generation in the clutch pack. The owner manual should always be referenced.
@@malikhouser2825 lol just did the same thing and having same problem. I removed clutch release shaft when i took cover off. I was just checking my original clutch pack (19k miles on it) and put the clutch release rod in last and waaay to much slack. Thinking its not catching the push rod in clutch pack dunno. Any luck on yours?
So do I need some new plates or an entirely new clutch kit? I think my clutch is slipping, but only at 8-10k RPM when changing gear. Pulls like a freight train below those revs and doesn’t act strange at all
Sure wish that the clutch on my Concours lasted longer. 33K miles of mostly highway use in Eco mode. I have had clutches in other bikes last much longer. At least it doesn't look too hard to replace.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Great straight forward video. Two additional tips- video tape yourself removing the plates or take pictures of each step to make sure your new plates are going on the same direction and order as the old ones were. It only takes a minute extra and will save you a lot of frustration when the dog comes in and bumps into your nicely laid out removed plates...Also, loosen (and re-tighten) the spring bolts in a "star" pattern to avoid warp.
Again MC garage killing it with the how to. My DIY confidence is boosted after watching these. BTW where can i get that shirt?!
Nice promo man. Are you paid?
Been watching a lot of these vids from the MC garage, and I must say they are the best how to videos out there. Simple, Short and straight to the point. Fair play lads, keep up the good work. Thanks from Ireland.
Honestly one of the best and to the point videos I’ve seen. Thanks man. Getting ready to replace my OEM clutch now. This definitely helped me learn quickly An saves me a lot of money having to deal with a shop doing it.
Few issues with this video. First, you should never remove the clutch springs and bolts one at a time. They should all be loosened at equal intervals until the pressure is off the springs. Taking them out one at a time can damage the pressure plate, springs and bolts. Second issue: There is a specific direction that clutch plates need to be installed in the pack. THEY MUST ALL BE INSTALLED THE SAME DIRECTION. Installing the plates in different directions can cause abnormal wear and heat generation in the clutch pack. The owner manual should always be referenced.
Thank you man really appreciate the info
I don't think he cares about damaging plates if he is replacing
Another thing: Not all clutches require being bathed in oil. Reference your bike’s service manual to find out if your clutch is wet or dry or semi-wet.
Moral knowledge work comment hi I am read this comment many more knowledge gain thank you
Hot damn! Lol❤
i love this channel. Ive been working on cars my entire life but its funny, theres no real classes or anything on fixing up old bikes. but your channel is soooo useful. MC university
I like Mc garage technique and work so carefully and explain all parts how its work
I'd love to see a how to video on pulling a bike out of long term storage (couple of years). Your content is top notch and so easy to follow. Keep up the great work.
Very handy that you used my bike as the demo. Now I know how to do it if i ever need to change it.
wow this actually looks like something i can do myself!!! i'll give it a shot!!
The best videos I have ever seen on the internet, explained perfectly and to the point inspiring confidence in one's self.
These videos are very handy, and I'm sure have helped a ton of people.
Nice 👍🏻 that takes all the confusion away for me , cheers for the video 👌
never reuse a gasket. it will only lead to seal leaks. it is always better to do it right the first time.
This is anecdotal i re use mine all the time of they are in good condition and haven't had one leak
Yeah guys, I mean who you gonna believ, some random dude in the comment section of RUclips, or motorcycle magazine? Yeah that’s what I thought.
@@NightyNiteXX He wanted to sound smart but you can tell he didn't really know what he was talking about. "reusing a gasket will lead to seal leaks"
When the OEM gasket cost $10, replace the gasket. Dont be cheap.
Do it right the first time around. Not the second time.
If you can't afford a 10$ gasket, you probably shouldn't own a motorcycle 🤦♂️
@@alotl1kevegas860 I agree. Of course sometimes you can use and get away with it. But if shit goes sideways its pain in the ass again to drain your oil and spend a few hours on the job. Rather just spend $10 and have peace of mind.
best diy channel out there.
Awesome video, definitely made this repair less scary for the first time diy
Thanks Ari you made this look so easy.
Very efficient video; no waffling on. Good Job
Dude: tomorrow is the day!, I will do this for the very first time to my motorcycle, I feel confident due to this video. spanish is my native language but, trust me the vídeo tutorials about this are a real shame and average.
Good vibes dude and I will update you about how it goes!.
the most clear video so far for the tutorial
I just installed a new clutch kit on a 2012 R6; and a couple of learning experiences. It said in the service manual to drain the coolant and remove the water pump. This was totally not necessary and waste of time on my bike like Ari mentions, so I didn't do it. Also when I put everything back together I found there were markings on the shift linkage and clutch cover where the cable reattaches that need to be lined up and the slack removed from the shaft before doing so. If at all possible, I would highly suggest getting an OEM kit. They seem to perform the best and last the longest, plus they have all markings/part# to match installation instructions in your service manual. Some plates are thicker/thinner than others and need to be installed in the right sequence as they wear faster from engagement. Lastly, don't drive the piss out of a band new clutch for a while so it can break in properly. The friction plates are similar to brake pads in this respect and you don't want to glaze them.
Brother can u explain me what is clutch plate? Plz
@@the6r471 The Clutch it self is made up of about 20 plates that stack inside the case.
i love how he makes it look so easy
110,000 miles on my 2005 CBR 1000RR clutch is still working great! Surprised so many clutches are being replaced!!!!
I don't ever plan on doing this b/c I'm scared to fudge something up. Still watched b/c such good videos
Wow what a great video! That looks easy as hell, no worries about doing some extra clutch up wheelies. I can fix it if it creates an issue down the line
Fixing to fix mine from them wheelies 🤣😏
Hey Ari, can you (or did you already) do a video on how to properly adjust your clutch lever and cable, specifically after a clutch replacement?Thanks! I love these videos!
very simple and straightforward unlike cars omg
New subscriber after this video, thanks!
Two hours saved me a thousand bucks
I really appreciate your work here fellas
I wish it was that easy on a car.
Ditch the car, ride a bike :D
Most cars I've worked on...
Step 1. If Audi, remove entire front end of car.
Step 1a. Remove the engine
Step 2. Realize step 1 is nowhere near as straightforward as it sounds.
Step 3. Bust your knuckles because some fucking bolt has seized after 180k miles.
Step 4. Replace the clutch after a weekend of swearing.
+MozzaBurger Damn right, brother!!
Depends on the car. FWD cars are hard because they have transaxles. RWD cars should be pretty straight forward.
Loving all the videos you make Ari. They help alot!!
You make things look so easy!
You have an awesome channel there. I am enjoying every video so far.
Loving the simplicity of your videos. Thanks!
You're my dad! Super helpful and to the point. Thanks
Its an intimidating job but seeing how its done shows it is really simple.
its look very easy for you , but for me its very difficult. thank you very much for a informative video
Very simple and helpful... Thanks Bro.. Hope for more videos on service maintenance
Good video, I like how you are starting to get into more complicated jobs
Nice brothah, this makes me want to take this project on myself.
super informative short video... thanks a lot from malaysia
"Gaskets are cheap"...unless they are from BMW :D
Do a valve check how-to so I don't have to pay a dealer to do it!
yes
please do
yes please
Yes....Always feel I'm getting ripped off on that one. Pretty much have to take their word for it when they say they did something!
TRexHeliPilot they really did check the valve clearence you can hear that if you are educated but they charge more hours than what it took them thats the problem in my eyes
Yes...do a valve check on an Interceptor...or a Ducati... >: )
Great video! You make it look super easy to do.
clear instructions as always!
What brand is that torque wrench you used in this video. I'm having a tough time finding one like that.
Search for t-handle torque wrench
7 year old comment, but just to leave this here for anyone looking for it like I was; it looks like the brand in the video is FixT t handle torque wrench
Thank you for the good work on your videos!
this video makes me want to order my clutch pack and gasket so I have it for later, before the parts become hard to find or extra expensive.. 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 650. I love my bike. 13K miles on it, all me. :)
Denver K And the aftermarket has you covered, EBC still make readily available clutch packs for my ageing vfr750
Nice video there man. Helps me out alot!
Great and easy understandable video!
short, informative, sweet
Love these! Id love to see a video on brake pads at some point! Also way to feature a sweet bike. I test rode the gsx-s1000 at a demo ride and I was hooked on the sound and the way the k5 builds power
I have just changed my oil, coolant and break fluid... I am happy that youtube considers I should go the next level 😂😂😂
First and always check the clutch springs. They do wear out usually before the plates.
And yet to do this in a car you usually have to drop the transmission out
yup totally agreed
@Bilal Naveed it's not the same principle. It's still a multiplate clutch..
Could you make a video explaining some signs you would notice if your clutch is going out? Absolutely great videos though
very informative video , however would like to learn also should we upgrade our clutches, spring rates what are the benefits of upgrading to a fancy clutch plate ? or stiffer springs.
Love these videos!!!!
Should the steel plates always be replaced as well? My local shop only sells a kit with friction plates, gasket and springs (+15%)
nice how to video, keep up the good work!
Man I miss that bike - mine had a fight with a car last year :( thanks for the video!
And who won?
@@camranh_royal train. No matter what, train wins.
Great video...thanks!
Great video. My clutch lever, when pulled, does not go back out. The arrow and dot on clutch cover were lined up. Should I undo the spring on the clutch cover and realign it? There's tension, but it's almost like the cable is too long now. Please help.
Very helpful thanks dude
Superb.....nice clip.....
Might be worth mentioning the tightening order - save a few distorted covers.
I never knew it was that easy.
The Description is amazing as I am doing with my hands .
Do a - How to break in a new engine or a recently fully overhauled one. It's important to know how to do preventive maintenance and it's even more on how to avoid messing up a new engine.
Hey, great video!
I did install a new clutch into my gsx-r 750 srad 1998. Of course new oil, complete set, even cable, lifter and liver. Unfortunately after like 500km the clutch did slip.
I did not open it up the take a look yet, but I have heard that the iron plates has on side a rounded edge and that needs to face against the engine, the rough edge against the clutch cover.
I did not hear about it in the video.
What do you think about it?
Could it cause any issue?
Thanks in advance.
Br.: R.p.
Should you change your oil early after a new clutch instal? Because of break in and fibers etc.
Is there a break in Procedure?
Hi, I own a gsx s 1000. I wanted to clean the sprocket side case as mud and chain spray had accumulated. I removed the left side cover, removed clutch cable and while cleaning I took the push rod out. After cleaning I fixed everything back and the immediate change that I noticed was the clutch lever play was gone.
Awesome video! Thank you very much. Which side does the wave washer seat go on to the motorcycle? I have the same motorcycle, and I’m not sure which way to put the rings back on to the bike. Thanks!
Is it the same with a slipper clutch? Nice video btw
how do i know which direction the stamped plates go if clutch wasn't factory installed sharp edge in or out, or does it even matter as long as their in the same direction, after i changed the clutch all sharp edges out my clutch is acting weird, with the original clutch there was a slight drag until the oil got warm, now the clutch feels too free when cold and get that slight drag when warm, i don't get how it acting exactly opposite of how it should be, i was going to reverse all the plates to sharp side in on the next oil change and see what that does, have you ever run into this
Did you ever get this figured out?
Do the friction plates have an order to go in ? Or just as long as the other plates are still in order it’s ok ?
My bike broke to pieces the clutches and the separator and judder spring was gone, the new kit didn't came with them and i installed it without the metal separator and judder spring. It runs good but.... can it be harmful to the bike?
I bought a brand new bike, Suzuki Gixxer 154.9cc. I have problems at cold starting even if only parked for some hours at the office. The bike has like choking sound or dies when i rev it slowly at low rpms but it idles steady and fine when the throttle is not touched.. Only at low rpm's from 1200-1800 it produce choking sound or blotchy sound. I already retuned a/f mixture, Spark plug reading is okay because it has brownish tip means my A/F mixture is fine and no oil fouling. optimum A/F mixture already, i checked air filter, it was clean and new.. I also changed fuel brand already, following manual required gas 91 octane rating above. I can only run my bike smoothly when it warmed up for about 5 minutes free standing and 3 minutes running then it's okay. I already drained fuel tanks before replacing with new clean oil. I even changed oil already and new filter. But my warm up problems wont be solved? all my bikes before dont have this problem. My country is tropical climate. Please somebody help me. after heating up it's okay, but turns bad again after few hours unused. i have to heat up again for another 3-5 minutes at noon before riding home.
In Boxer engines like in the BMW R 1200 GS, I gues this procedure is quite diferente.Can you do a vídeo on the same clutch replacement?
soak for few hours into oil?is that necessary?usually if we go to workshop they will install for you on the spot any harm if we dont soak it into oil long enough?..sorry for my bad english
There is one missing part. The outer springs that the bolts go into weaken from heat. Don't take my word for it, your manual will call out their free length. If you don't replace them as well, you won't get the full life out of the new set of clutch fiber plates. 2002 Suzuki Vstrom 1000 with 74K miles. On my bike, there is also a coarse oil screen just below the clutch pack that you should remove and clean while there.
Replaced my clutch and cable, it runs fine but when I ride a bit and it heats up, the clutch loosens and doesn't engage fully and I have to adjust it
great tip!!
It seems like nobody uses a dressing like Gasgacinch anymore. Are all new gaskets designed to be applied dry?
Remember the last friction plate doesn’t go into the teeth like all the others, the last one goes into to the clutch teeth in The case that keeps is stationary..
Also if you have a newer bike youll probably have two friction plates which are different to the rest, the cork material will be bigger than the rest.. these go on the outside of the pack, so it will be the first and last friction plate you put in..
Make sure everything is right before tightening, I didn’t and ended up snappjng the clutch lifter pin. Just a heads up :)
hi sir.... i was waiting that what will happen if a clutch pack doesn't change urgently... does the clutch house will be worn too,,, tnanks a lot
Hiya please make a video on changing clutch pack in cruiser bikes
Simple but good
Doing this soon on my 2000 zx6r. found replacement clutch packs on Dennis Kirk but one is steel and one is Kevlar. Any suggestions on which to buy or why?
just a question about a different bike I changed the clutch plates on my rsv4. but for some reason the clutch is tooo loose like the wire doesn't even make the clutch engage. so was wondering if I did something wrong while stacking the plates back in. Is there a certain way the clutch plates have to be put in I mean the groved end on the outside of the friction plate have to be in the same slot or I didn't allign that clutch shaft to the clutch center dongle like thingy (lol sry don't know what's its called) its totally different from the cbr600rr I have. please helllllp!
2 months and no one helped you ;(
hopefully you got if solved but you could probably search it up and get help on your bike
I'm 12
Harkanwaljeet Singh it's been five months now, is your bike running well now??
this post maybe help you.if you find the solution plz tell us
Few issues with this video. First, you should never remove the clutch springs and bolts one at a time. They should all be loosened at equal intervals until the pressure is off the springs. Taking them out one at a time can damage the pressure plate, springs and bolts. Second issue: There is a specific direction that clutch plates need to be installed in the pack. THEY MUST ALL BE INSTALLED THE SAME DIRECTION. Installing the plates in different directions can cause abnormal wear and heat generation in the clutch pack. The owner manual should always be referenced.
Harkanwaljeet Singh. I'm having same problem just changed clutch in my cbr900rr clutch cable way too loose cant figure out how to tighten it
@@malikhouser2825 lol just did the same thing and having same problem. I removed clutch release shaft when i took cover off. I was just checking my original clutch pack (19k miles on it) and put the clutch release rod in last and waaay to much slack. Thinking its not catching the push rod in clutch pack dunno. Any luck on yours?
thanks for being clear
do you have short video for Sym T2 clutch replacement ?
So do I need some new plates or an entirely new clutch kit? I think my clutch is slipping, but only at 8-10k RPM when changing gear. Pulls like a freight train below those revs and doesn’t act strange at all
Sure wish that the clutch on my Concours lasted longer. 33K miles of mostly highway use in Eco mode. I have had clutches in other bikes last much longer. At least it doesn't look too hard to replace.
is there any chance to mess this up ? and if you do, will you notice it outright or during riding out of a sudden ?
great video!
Haii...for slipper clutch.. pressure and friction plate it is same with normal clutch???
Can you post a link for the torque wrench? I have not seen that type before. Thanks.
Hi Ari, please tell me what happend if we dont soak the friction plates in oil for at least an hour. thank u!
Easy Peezy