On the baffles I have made, I used a bar to bend the lip of the holes. On the front half of the baffles the back edge is tipped into the pipe. Then on the back half the front of the hole is tipped in. That helps with air flow and sounds smoother. You can wrap the baffles wit steel wool to stop the rattle and mellow the sound a bit more.
ON OUR OLD CHAINS FOR THE TAIL GATE WE USED A PIECE OF RIBBED RAD HOSE TO KEEP THE RATTLE OUT. I USE THIS ON MY '52 NOW AND BRING THE CHAIN HOOK IN FROM THE BOTTOM AND FLIP. THE HOOK SEEMS TO STAY PUT BETTER. GREAT JOB YOU GUYS. BE SAFE AND GOD BLESS
Just a bit FYI: In the world of sound measurement, every 3 db equals doubling (or halving) the actual sound volume. It might behoove you to go out and measure the real world sound level of ordinary traffic. Good old Hobo Freight has a multimeter which also measures temperature, light level and sound level. A neat tool to have around the shop!
Yes, so the bottom line is that decibels aren't measured on a linear scale like miles per hour and your app is probably correct. Note the big issue with your pipes and noise is that they're straight. You don't need restrictions (baffles) to quiet the noise, but you do need the right bends to break up the sound waves, and of course that means your pipes can't look like they do. David Vizard's channel has some good insights into making low-restriction exhaust that's streetable if you search for it. I think his best advice was to stay away from the marketed low-restriction products because they aren't very good at either being quiet or preserving power.
I made baffles for my flathead by cutting alternating slots in a 18” pipe and dimpling the slots inward about an inch. The cups face forward towards the engine and they took the harshness out of the exhaust. Bonus is that they don’t rattle 😂😂
I made baffles for an AV8 roadster with center dump headers and straight pipes similar to yours. I made the inner tubing enough smaller diameter as to allow space for a couple wraps of fiberglass at least. I assumed that I would tune them to the sound I wanted. Back in the day we were after tone as well as loud. We sure didn't like raspy sounding and that was what I tuned out with the amount of glass wrapping. I spiral wrapped wire around the glass to keep the glass secure. I held the whole thing together with one screw into the tubing as you did. It took 4 attempts at tuning to get rid of the raspy for good tone and no louder that the T bucket headers I had on a previous bucket........but plenty loud. With some kind of wrap, obviously it's not possible to rattle. Really glad you are trying baffles Matt! We always loved loud but Mellllloooowww! :) Thanks for the great videos, guys!
Decibels are on a logarithmic scale. An increase of 6 decibels is double the amount of sound. The higher you get on the scale small increases are large sound level increases.
Here is an idea for you on baffles. We used to a small piece of 7/8" or 1" tubing and weld about 3 flights of sheet metal to form an auger so to speak. Slide the auger inside the tube and bolt to outer tube. Weld a tab on the end so you can bolt it to your exhaust tube. Works great
From the audio on my iPad I hear it the same My 2 cents I’d put the windshield straight vertical and cut it 2 inches above the steering wheel Beautiful truck It sounds amazing Love all the hard work
Measuring sound pressure inside the shop will affect the reading. Also, it takes double the sound pressure level to move the scale 3dB. Try standing behind the truck outside and getting some numbers.
on that taile gate on that hook you come in from the bottem of the bracket so the eyelet with the chain under the braclet and the hook goes over the top of the bracket so it can not fall out
Matt, when I use to build and drive racecars we had several tracks we ran at that had residential areas close to the track and we were required to run mufflers. at teck inspection the officials had a decibel meter and cars had to be 95 dbs or less at 50 ft. so by those standards you are doing pretty good. after all these engines were 350 to 400 cid and 500 to 600 hp. Just on a personal level on your drive through town I saw a long row of houses that were virtually identical. I now know what row-houses are. being from the west coast I just learned something new!😎 🏁
Yuppers, the shop truck is definitely gonna be a nice ride come spring going out for parts, lunch and other irems. Definitely good for haulin' things to shows in front of Big Red.
Matt! Good work! Observations: 1.Having raced short track asphalt stock cars I have some knowledge here. To compare readings in the garage the app has some use. But which scale, B or C? Also readings are taken at a specific distance. We had to pass 95db (C) @ 75ft. I realize this is not a race car... 2. Good idea to drill holes as long as their total area exceeds the area of the main pipe. But this is defeated by having the baffle walls so close to the outside pipe walls. Can't breath. Does it flatten out under full acceleration? If so you're choking it off. Restriction is a function of flow. 3. After trying all manner of mufflers & baffles we settled on perforated cone baffles with the cone long enough to have the holes exceed the inside pipe diameter. These could be made with stainless mesh formed & welded with the points facing the inlet (front). Tabs would secure them. They were our best solution. Good for a half a car length down the straights! 4. Sound is shock waves. Restriction quiets but kills power. Again, no racecar but the principles are the same. Hope this helps. You've helped me! Thanks!
Sounds amazing. Looks amazing! Well done! Yeah, I heard that rattle and I'm thinking, is it just me hearing this?!?! Why hasn't Matt or Steve mentioned it?!?!🤣 Nice save with the light. That's a special rig all around. Thanks for the effort!
Great video, great shop truck!!! Try making the baffelle longer. The longer tube will allow more holes to be drilled and you can make the holes smaller and the extra holes will still allow flow and will make it guiet down some and should make it run smoother due to added back pressure! Open exhaust will need to run so much hotter and will throw off timing and carburetion. Have you ever seen stock cars run at night with open headers glowing cherry red ? You can wrap a thin wrap of insulation around the baffelle and secure it with a spiral wrap of bailing wire, (old Harley trick) and believe it or not it will run even better after setting carb and adjusting timing 😃
Sounds great exception of the rattles. A turn down tip to the ground might help to make it not so loud. Maybe use some copper pot scuber inside the baffle too.
Try putting some sleeves on tailgate chains should stop rattling and limit travel of hooks plus damage to paint and rust. Looking forward for next step thanks Matt
Matt, are you going to put fenders on the truck? Have you concidered routing the pipes out the back and under the bed? I love your work and great ideas.
Matt, keep in mind that the decibel scale is not linear. Going upwards, the sound level difference between 85 and 86 is much much less than the difference between 86 and 87 if that makes any sense.
When you put bafale material in your silencer its a tight fit ok i wrap the material in the tap used on pakeges it burns off when it gets hot and expands
I don't think your DB app is working properly . By the camera volume you shot this video with , You could not speak to each other without raising your voices . But after the baffles , you could have a conversation around it running . The engine sounds fantastic ! Tweak it in there , but ya ! You can wrap the baffle in steel wool , to stop the "rattle" , but best to weld a ring on the front to stop it . Both would work best together . Mount the tail-light / license plate further in , under the bed , for avoiding the tail gate swing . Climbers use carabiners , basically a spring-clip loop , very cheap from Ozarks ($2,50 a set) for locking the gate up , until you want to open it . Outstanding ride though , Gentlemen ! Fit & finish , just dialing it all in . She's a runner ! SMOOTH at speed , & has a nice V8 gallop to her at Idle . Break it in , it'll last another 100 years cared for ! That is what America was , is , & should always be about . Lasting forever ! Great post guys ! There's a punch for dimples (like louvers) face 1/2 out from center , bend into a tube , or cut for diameter & weld . Ring both ends for center , Iron Trap Garage baffles , Made in America .
I thought baffles had some sort of packing. Like a heat resistant material that you stuff around the actual baffle. My motorcycle did. Nice old truck, by the way. Cool thing about older vehicles is all the groans, creaks, and noises you hear when your driving. You don't need a radio.
I thought you would stuff some "0" gauge steel wool into the pipe, but regardless, the exhaust appears to have lost it's "rasp" and should make the little truck more "drive-able".
To stop the baffles from rattling could you build up some weld bead in one small area so they slip fit? Do those pipes need supported at the back to stop them from cracking or damaging the heads? WAY cool that you have this so close to being usable!!!
I would have tried it with half the holes first to see how it sounded then drilled all the holes to compare the sound! just a thought on my end. Also if you had measured at the same distance from the pipe both times the readings would be more accurate
Looks to me that you restricted the pipe to pretty much the size of the central hole since the others are such a tight fit to the sides. I guess you are going for a straight pipe look but surely some kind of silencer/muffler box would help more and also be less restrictive. I'd also imagine that the relevant 'obnoxious' RPM would be for round town driving speeds - maybe up to 2000? Actually though the dB range at idle seemed to be lower than I expected , even before fitting the baffles. Perhaps it would be interesting to compare with other vehicles. Just how loud is 'obnoxious'? By the way, do you guys have to pass some kind of annual test to be allowed on the road? On another note it was really good to see the car actually being driven. These fabrications videos are really great but driving is what it's about! PS. Did I hear the sound @11:47 of the baffle rattling in the pipe (due to being only fixed in by one screw)?
I’m trying to find a brake light turn signal combo like the one on the back of the roaster truck what would I look up to find them on eBay? Been looking around haven’t been able to find any like those all in one just old brake light
In my opinion, I did not notice much if any real difference in the level of sound or the quality of the sound. My question is how much did the small baffle opening effect power at higher RPM seeing as how you reduced the output opening to about half of the original un baffled opening size.
Just because my Mom was an English teacher - two is the # - to indicates going someplace and is used as a preposition - too is excessive degree. The two exhaust pipes were too loud driving to town.
That little bit of metal ringing noise .. was that from the baffles or the chains hitting the tail gate? I put baffles in my 32 Buick with a BBC 396 and they have a layer of motorcycle fiberglass packing and it quieted it down a lot at idle ( still rumbles) but still has a great throaty sound when I get on the throttle.
I'm sure the car sound levels would be ignored in appreciation for the car, i've noticed old Rods and such people expect it. Now on the other hand, if it was a mid 2000s car with an exhaust that sounds as if it fell off they'd get the frowned looks
Hi Matt, this is Eric I want you from in California on RUclips. I’m hoping to see if I can do a trip out your way to meet you and Kayden, Mike and Mike’s wife in Steve and hopefully your dad hopefully right around July 27 or before.
You did change the character of the exhaust sound, but it is still just as loud. Consider whether you want to be wearing hearing aids in the future! Look up what decible levels are safe for human ears short and long term.
Are you going to fix the rust holes in the top of the drivers door? My OCD is killing me every time I see it .. also easy to catch your sleeve on it and rip your clothes... But Truck looks amazing from what it started as..
On the baffles I have made, I used a bar to bend the lip of the holes. On the front half of the baffles the back edge is tipped into the pipe. Then on the back half the front of the hole is tipped in. That helps with air flow and sounds smoother. You can wrap the baffles wit steel wool to stop the rattle and mellow the sound a bit more.
ON OUR OLD CHAINS FOR THE TAIL GATE WE USED A PIECE OF RIBBED RAD HOSE TO KEEP THE RATTLE OUT. I USE THIS ON MY '52 NOW AND BRING THE CHAIN HOOK IN FROM THE BOTTOM AND FLIP. THE HOOK SEEMS TO STAY PUT BETTER. GREAT JOB YOU GUYS. BE SAFE AND GOD BLESS
Just a bit FYI: In the world of sound measurement, every 3 db equals doubling (or halving) the actual sound volume. It might behoove you to go out and measure the real world sound level of ordinary traffic. Good old Hobo Freight has a multimeter which also measures temperature, light level and sound level. A neat tool to have around the shop!
Yes, so the bottom line is that decibels aren't measured on a linear scale like miles per hour and your app is probably correct. Note the big issue with your pipes and noise is that they're straight. You don't need restrictions (baffles) to quiet the noise, but you do need the right bends to break up the sound waves, and of course that means your pipes can't look like they do. David Vizard's channel has some good insights into making low-restriction exhaust that's streetable if you search for it. I think his best advice was to stay away from the marketed low-restriction products because they aren't very good at either being quiet or preserving power.
It is great when we get to see one of your built vehicles taken out for a drive.
The subtle beauty of eastern Pennsylvania. Thanks for reminding me!
Sounds like the Little Shop Truck wants to get in the back of the Big Red & go to a show. Ty for taking us along
I made baffles for my flathead by cutting alternating slots in a 18” pipe and dimpling the slots inward about an inch. The cups face forward towards the engine and they took the harshness out of the exhaust. Bonus is that they don’t rattle 😂😂
Good video..Great song choice when Matt was working on the baffle..
If you want the baffles a little quieter you can wrap steel wool around them with stainless wire. The ones you made may be too tight to fit though.
I made baffles for an AV8 roadster with center dump headers and straight pipes similar to yours. I made the inner tubing enough smaller diameter as to allow space for a couple wraps of fiberglass at least. I assumed that I would tune them to the sound I wanted. Back in the day we were after tone as well as loud. We sure didn't like raspy sounding and that was what I tuned out with the amount of glass wrapping. I spiral wrapped wire around the glass to keep the glass secure. I held the whole thing together with one screw into the tubing as you did. It took 4 attempts at tuning to get rid of the raspy for good tone and no louder that the T bucket headers I had on a previous bucket........but plenty loud. With some kind of wrap, obviously it's not possible to rattle. Really glad you are trying baffles Matt! We always loved loud but Mellllloooowww! :) Thanks for the great videos, guys!
Those baffles quieted it down. Thanks Matt for sharing! Nice Job!
Decibels are on a logarithmic scale. An increase of 6 decibels is double the amount of sound. The higher you get on the scale small increases are large sound level increases.
To cool I love that truck..... And you guys just built that from extra parts around the shop. Love it great video ty Steve
Here is an idea for you on baffles.
We used to a small piece of 7/8" or 1" tubing and weld about 3 flights of sheet metal to form an auger so to speak. Slide the auger inside the tube and bolt to outer tube.
Weld a tab on the end so you can bolt it to your exhaust tube. Works great
Good morning to you and I hope that you have a great day today. Good way to start my day off this morning. Thank you Matt.
From the audio on my iPad I hear it the same
My 2 cents I’d put the windshield straight vertical and cut it 2 inches above the steering wheel
Beautiful truck
It sounds amazing
Love all the hard work
That rattling would drive me nuts. Enjoy
Good thing we can fix it. Test drives are done for a reason…
Measuring sound pressure inside the shop will affect the reading. Also, it takes double the sound pressure level to move the scale 3dB. Try standing behind the truck outside and getting some numbers.
on that taile gate on that hook you come in from the bottem of the bracket so the eyelet with the chain under the braclet and the hook goes over the top of the bracket so it can not fall out
Nothing like a nice test drive to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Really cool truck!
It sure is!
Matt, when I use to build and drive racecars we had several tracks we ran at that had residential areas close to the track and we were required to run mufflers. at teck inspection the officials had a decibel meter and cars had to be 95 dbs or less at 50 ft. so by those standards you are doing pretty good. after all these engines were 350 to 400 cid and 500 to 600 hp. Just on a personal level on your drive through town I saw a long row of houses that were virtually identical. I now know what row-houses are. being from the west coast I just learned something new!😎 🏁
Yuppers, the shop truck is definitely gonna be a nice ride come spring going out for parts, lunch and other irems.
Definitely good for haulin' things to shows in front of Big Red.
I can’t believe it but I actually think it sounds better now with the baffles nice job
Matt!
Good work!
Observations:
1.Having raced short track asphalt stock cars I have some knowledge here. To compare readings in the garage the app has some use. But which scale, B or C? Also readings are taken at a specific distance. We had to pass 95db (C) @ 75ft. I realize this is not a race car...
2. Good idea to drill holes as long as their total area exceeds the area of the main pipe. But this is defeated by having the baffle walls so close to the outside pipe walls. Can't breath. Does it flatten out under full acceleration? If so you're choking it off. Restriction is a function of flow.
3. After trying all manner of mufflers & baffles we settled on perforated cone baffles with the cone long enough to have the holes exceed the inside pipe diameter. These could be made with stainless mesh formed & welded with the points facing the inlet (front). Tabs would secure them. They were our best solution. Good for a half a car length down the straights!
4. Sound is shock waves. Restriction quiets but kills power. Again, no racecar but the principles are the same.
Hope this helps. You've helped me!
Thanks!
Adding turnouts will make cruising more enjoyable, without affecting the tone. 🤠
Still a great day when you can drive the RPU in January / February
Mr U have some really COOL stuff.. That truck is in my assumption is the Best 😎😎😎!!!
Sounds amazing. Looks amazing! Well done! Yeah, I heard that rattle and I'm thinking, is it just me hearing this?!?! Why hasn't Matt or Steve mentioned it?!?!🤣 Nice save with the light. That's a special rig all around. Thanks for the effort!
Great little truck
Matt it's perfect man love those flatheads
Great video, great shop truck!!! Try making the baffelle longer. The longer tube will allow more holes to be drilled and you can make the holes smaller and the extra holes will still allow flow and will make it guiet down some and should make it run smoother due to added back pressure! Open exhaust will need to run so much hotter and will throw off timing and carburetion. Have you ever seen stock cars run at night with open headers glowing cherry red ? You can wrap a thin wrap of insulation around the baffelle and secure it with a spiral wrap of bailing wire, (old Harley trick) and believe it or not it will run even better after setting carb and adjusting timing 😃
Great vid !
Pretty sure, that some handsome Dane raised his concern about tailgate swing/taillight mounting. ;-)
(Wisea$$, I know!)
Крутой получился хот род! Тоже хочу такой построить.
Driving around in the car or truck I should say looks like a great time.
Excellent I did that to a 56 Chevy with long tube fenderwell headers the shop made my baffles look like an ice cream cone watch the temperature
Like was stated by others the baffles need to be a smaller diameter pipe and dimpled in. The best sound would be with a couple Smithys though!
Sounds great exception of the rattles. A turn down tip to the ground might help to make it not so loud. Maybe use some copper pot scuber inside the baffle too.
I had to turn up my volume when you idled it. Great sound
That ride was fun. The truck looks like a good driver and a looker.
Love that pickup
Try putting some sleeves on tailgate chains should stop rattling and limit travel of hooks plus damage to paint and rust. Looking forward for next step thanks Matt
Perfection!
Awesome sound
wrap a little fiberglass around the baffles. it will bring the tone down and eliminate the baffle rattle.
I just love that rig
Matt, are you going to put fenders on the truck? Have you concidered routing the pipes out the back and under the bed? I love your work and great ideas.
No fenders. Not sure on routing pipes yet.
Matt, keep in mind that the decibel scale is not linear. Going upwards, the sound level difference between 85 and 86 is much much less than the difference between 86 and 87 if that makes any sense.
Sounded great
I love the shop truck, its a brilliant little thing, great fun.
Nice job Matt sounds good
Nice work and it was really really great to see you going for a drive in the roadster!
Sounds great! I have an old car it's very loud. Can't even hear my wife talk. Chances are I won't fix it.
Haha!
You can get fiberglass wrap for baffles
It really sounds nice at cruising speed
Looks cool
Maybe thrush glass packs?
If you put elbows on the end of the pipes it will direct the sound down instead of out towards the driver.
You may want to put some header wrap on the baffles to get rid of the rattle. It would be inside you pipe and not visible
Iron Trap is the best!!!
When you put bafale material in your silencer its a tight fit ok i wrap the material in the tap used on pakeges it burns off when it gets hot and expands
I don't think your DB app is working properly . By the camera volume you shot this video with , You could not speak to each other without raising your voices . But after the baffles , you could have a conversation around it running . The engine sounds fantastic ! Tweak it in there , but ya ! You can wrap the baffle in steel wool , to stop the "rattle" , but best to weld a ring on the front to stop it . Both would work best together . Mount the tail-light / license plate further in , under the bed , for avoiding the tail gate swing . Climbers use carabiners , basically a spring-clip loop , very cheap from Ozarks ($2,50 a set) for locking the gate up , until you want to open it . Outstanding ride though , Gentlemen ! Fit & finish , just dialing it all in . She's a runner ! SMOOTH at speed , & has a nice V8 gallop to her at Idle . Break it in , it'll last another 100 years cared for ! That is what America was , is , & should always be about . Lasting forever ! Great post guys ! There's a punch for dimples (like louvers) face 1/2 out from center , bend into a tube , or cut for diameter & weld . Ring both ends for center , Iron Trap Garage baffles , Made in America .
Sounds great 👍🏼 ❤😊
I thought baffles had some sort of packing. Like a heat resistant material that you stuff around the actual baffle. My motorcycle did.
Nice old truck, by the way. Cool thing about older vehicles is all the groans, creaks, and noises you hear when your driving. You don't need a radio.
I thought you would stuff some "0" gauge steel wool into the pipe, but regardless, the exhaust appears to have lost it's "rasp" and should make the little truck more "drive-able".
You need your logo on the door, painted as in the old days
Try volkswagon beetle resonators. They will definitely quiet it down.
To stop the baffles from rattling could you build up some weld bead in one small area so they slip fit?
Do those pipes need supported at the back to stop them from cracking or damaging the heads?
WAY cool that you have this so close to being usable!!!
Nice Job Matt, bet the was a cold ride lol..
I would have tried it with half the holes first to see how it sounded then drilled all the holes to compare the sound! just a thought on my end. Also if you had measured at the same distance from the pipe both times the readings would be more accurate
Looks to me that you restricted the pipe to pretty much the size of the central hole since the others are such a tight fit to the sides. I guess you are going for a straight pipe look but surely some kind of silencer/muffler box would help more and also be less restrictive. I'd also imagine that the relevant 'obnoxious' RPM would be for round town driving speeds - maybe up to 2000?
Actually though the dB range at idle seemed to be lower than I expected , even before fitting the baffles.
Perhaps it would be interesting to compare with other vehicles. Just how loud is 'obnoxious'?
By the way, do you guys have to pass some kind of annual test to be allowed on the road?
On another note it was really good to see the car actually being driven. These fabrications videos are really great but driving is what it's about!
PS. Did I hear the sound @11:47 of the baffle rattling in the pipe (due to being only fixed in by one screw)?
cool deal !
Didn't sound any different from where I'm sitting! Ha ha, but you definitely put a restriction in it....
I’m trying to find a brake light turn signal combo like the one on the back of the roaster truck what would I look up to find them on eBay? Been looking around haven’t been able to find any like those all in one just old brake light
In my opinion, I did not notice much if any real difference in the level of sound or the quality of the sound.
My question is how much did the small baffle opening effect power at higher RPM seeing as how you reduced the output opening to about half of the original un baffled opening size.
Need to can that cowbell sound
Too loud for my neck of the woods. I'd get a ticket for sure. I'm getting ear plugs!!
Just because my Mom was an English teacher - two is the # - to indicates going someplace and is used as a preposition - too is excessive degree. The two exhaust pipes were too loud driving to town.
Yes we need to send Mike back to grammar skills and Matt need to learn to proofread better. Sorry!
@@IronTrapGarage We all have our strengths and weaknesses. Mom couldn’t drive but her English usage was perfect.
The baffles didn't do much. Pipes look good though.
baffling takes 2 screws to keep things from rattling and gets evenly spacing
That little bit of metal ringing noise .. was that from the baffles or the chains hitting the tail gate? I put baffles in my 32 Buick with a BBC 396 and they have a layer of motorcycle fiberglass packing and it quieted it down a lot at idle ( still rumbles) but still has a great throaty sound when I get on the throttle.
??? Watched again, when is the Y adapter with 2 carbs coming... instead 1 carb with monster Jet sizes?
I'm sure the car sound levels would be ignored in appreciation for the car, i've noticed old Rods and such people expect it. Now on the other hand, if it was a mid 2000s car with an exhaust that sounds as if it fell off they'd get the frowned looks
Boss men...Can you eliminate the baffle clang?
Sure can that’s why we take things for a test drive !
Do you know who the manufacturer of that tail light assembly is?
The insulation will stop the rattle 😁
Sounds Nice.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
#FLY EAGLES FLY 🦅
#SUPER BOWL 57
Hi Matt, this is Eric I want you from in California on RUclips. I’m hoping to see if I can do a trip out your way to meet you and Kayden, Mike and Mike’s wife in Steve and hopefully your dad hopefully right around July 27 or before.
just put some smittys on it. sooner or later somebody in shorts is gonna find one of those hot pipes.
That’s how they learn
Little to much slant on the windshield for me.but it's up to you .
Windshield was moving on us.
How much boost is the McCullough putting out?
Negligible amount
High of 92.....that's twice as loud as a high of 88...decibels increase is logarithmic. If you get it down into the 70's you'll have a quiet vehicle.
I don’t want a quiet vehicle. This isn’t “Iron Prius Garage”
I think your pipes are rattling against the body, maybe the frame.
Just don't make the baffle any smaller or the ATF will come visit. lol
pish posh… you should always be able to hear a beast before it enters the room…. The louder the better .. jk 😂 good job guys
Does Steve have a car of his own.?
*too loud.
You did change the character of the exhaust sound, but it is still just as loud. Consider whether you want to be wearing hearing aids in the future! Look up what decible levels are safe for human ears short and long term.
"too loud" with 2 o's!
Are you going to fix the rust holes in the top of the drivers door? My OCD is killing me every time I see it .. also easy to catch your sleeve on it and rip your clothes... But Truck looks amazing from what it started as..
Leaving it. The next owner can take it further if they so choose.
@@IronTrapGarage Ah! I thought you were keeping the shop truck.. but this makes sense! Thank you for the reply!