Huge waves made it nearly impossible to get out
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- Опубликовано: 5 янв 2024
- I recently filmed a HUGE, terrifying days of surf and realized that I don't normally share with you the most difficult and scary part of big wave surfing.
Thanks for watching! I'm Brad Jacobson and I'll sea ya on the sand.
Music: Snake Hips 
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That happened to me yesterday at Venice. After 30-40 minutes, I just gave up. After watching your video I don’t feel so bad. Thanks Brad.
Happened to me today at the not-a-spot right next to the spot. Like 20-30 minutes of relentless paddle and never got out back. Gave up and went to the crowded spot. Got out there in less than 5 minutes only to snag a close out 😂 fuck surfing
At…Venice ‽ ‽ ‽
Venice NEEDS an artificial reef, or three.
Champ
We used to jump off Manhattan pier when it was too big to padle out. Never felt so alive! Thanks for bringing back those memories 😃
I've jumped off the Venice Pier, but you have to be quick to sneak past the life guards... Then there was (maybe still is?) jumping off the the Little Rincon pier... We would casually wait for a truck to exit and run up the pier and jump. Some guys would throw their board and then jump, I would hold my board on the way down and let go before impact... I've seen a gust of wind take a free falling board into the pilings causing major dings.
I grew up surfing HB and Newport. Then I moved to Ocean Beach in San Francisco. That is a four mile long beach break that has lots of clean double overhead days throughout the fall, winter and early spring. It's a 200 yard paddle out. A hell of a workout but it's doable. But then there are the clean triple overhead+ days which we get several of those every winter too. Those are 300 yard paddles. On those days there are only a handful of guys out in the water. The paddle out generally takes about half an hour of non stop paddling, duck diving, having your board ripped out of your hands, washing machined, and dragged back 50 yards toward shore, popping up and regaining ground hoping one of those beasts doesn't suddenly start to loom on the horizon. You only get one or two waves an hour cuz the peaks shift all over the place, and when you do catch one you don't want to ride them in too far or you'll get caught inside and take another 20-30 minutes to get back in the lineup. After the session you are completely wiped out but feel great.
Yep …try it with a long board
Pretty much summed that up🤙🌊🦆💯
OB is notorious for it's paddleout. Only the fittest survive.
Yes, I too moved up there in the 90's after growing up in HB and NB. Surfing OB is almost a different sport. I stuck mostly just south of there around Linda Mar, and Montara, and Santa Cruz.
Yes. This. Beach is challenging for sure.
Trust me man, I know! Growing up right next to a beach break that catches tons of swell, THERE IS NO CHANNEL. Ever. There are some slightly better spots but that's it, and you need to accept the fact that there's at least thirty straight minutes of paddling out ahead of you, and that's assuming you're able to get out at all. Occasionally I had to just give up.
Where ?
My lungs are aching just WATCHING this! Great vid, Brad! As usual.
Rarely see good footage of Hammerland these days ! Nice work Brad 👍
So much good surf action lately. Swami's was packed - cleanup sets. Thanks for your work, Brad !
An Awesome Video!!!! I remember them days. Thank you for Sharing and Posting. You are the Man Mr.Brad!!!!
Love this edit!
You finally get out then wave selection is everything!
my arms are noodles just watching this. one of the more entertaining surf videos I've seen in awhile, and very relatable. sometimes I swear you either get lucky on attempt #1 and get out in 2 minutes with plenty of energy or it takes you 15 minutes of back to back waves on the head. then you just wait around and rest until you can even consider paddling for a wave. nice vid 👍
Excellent video. I like how you made a story, and the more of your narration, the better.
I live at a recently blown-open beachbreak, and you're showing the part that all the exposure glosses over. But those that try, learn! 👹
Very cool video Brad. I've seen some of these names on your channel before and know they are incredibly talented surfers. It makes me feel better about days where I am struggling too. These are some monster waves.
I love to see this. 50% of surfing is the paddle out. I like to see how others make it out in big surf. You should keep making these vids.
The opening 5 seconds is sick. But that's not why i write this comment today. I like to give moral support and help support people. Here's my comment. I can't paddle out when it's huge either! Hope that helps. You can feel better about yourself.
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it's amazing. Some guys look at a huge day, and they decide to paddle out. Not only that is brave, but then they actually make it out there! That's when they really blow my mind. They actually can surf it. I'm usually extremely elated, when (if) I make it out there, not washed immediately back to the beach. ⛱️ 🏖️
love the pathos in your narration!
Great video, thanks!!!!!!
Excellent share!!!
Please do more of these!
One of your more watchable videos. The secret? Your almost constant narration! Well done!
Never give up. Paddle paddle paddle paddle paddle until you get out that was my motto. I’ve only been denied a few times hurricane waves.
Well put 👍
Great video
Absolutely astonishing radical courageous inspiring as a friend of mine would say Surfing in San Francisco at Ocean Beach just making it out to the lineup was an accomplishment sometimes some days specially in super heavy conditions. That’s what it feels like a victory. I love all these videos you put up thank you so much.
Cool to see the good, bag and the ugly of paddle outs in huge surf. The other thing that surf videographers usually edit out is holddowns. Some of us are trying to count out the length of the hold downs in bigger surf, but you guys tend to edit them abrubtly to focus on the "action" of the next wave. lets see some Brad!
Mr. Jacobson deserves respect by showing people who may not surf how risky & critical a paddle-out can be. I have had to explain to folks who have never surfed that being outside in big surf, followed by a controlled takeoff, is much more secure & safe than dodging double-to-triple overhead waves on the way out. I have had some terrifying paddle-outs that years later still scare me. I learned to jump into rips whenever possible, defying all the beach safety rules ever written. I also learned the hard way to not stop & look around after going vertical up the face-I learned to keep my eyes closed & keep digging until the spray dies down-only then open my eyes to see if I might survive the next set aiming right at me. One thing that Mr. Jacobson missed is the steady-constant roar. I am open to better descriptions, but I liken it to being 200’ from a 747 as it accelerates down a runway.
Is there a reason they didn't walk out on the jetty? Is it fenced off?
I once had a 72 duck dive paddle out. Started counting because it got ridiculous. Never made it out. No channel and double overhead sets. Of course, the first lull came after I gave up.
I'm out of breathe just watching this.
Yes, paddle outs are the single most dangerous part of surfing....nothing like being completely exhausted after a 15 minute paddle and then seeing a monster set building on the horizon...
great video, great idea, alohaaaa
Definitely the first step in learning to surf. Paddling out. Some places and times are easier or more difficult.
Most of my reef cuts from 15 years in Hawaii were from paddling back out. I recall paddling back out at Off The Wall/Aint's with a wall of whitewater coming at me - my board hit a coral head about elbow-deep into my duckdive. That was fun.
I have often delivered this phrase after a session ~ "I only do this for the punishment"
In Hawaii I learned to find a very deep place where the waves didn't break so far out.
BUT if you didn't make it it would be death defying to get caught inside. People die out there.
But it's worth it to stay in shape and being a surfer is a total superpower. We even look sort
of like superheros in our wetsuits, But flying down the waves is absolutely a feeling of awesome mastery and wiping out is really great for the body kinda like getting slammed in martial arts or football. Being with friends out there in great surf is one of the greatest
experiences ever. There are fewer people as healthy as surfers. Being alone when the surf is huge is a feeling of wildness that puts you into an incredible headspace. Leave it at that.
I hate it when it looks like I might make it past the last outside wave, so I paddle extra hard and work my way into deep oxygen debt, so I can make it to the outside... only to get smoked by the biggest wave of the set and held down for a 30 second thrashing while I'd really rather be breathing.
Ocean beach San Francisco has the same issue when’s it gets big. There are rip currents that people use to get out in the line up. It’s counter intuitive but the waves don’t break in a riptide zone. Note I’ve tried that method. It doesn’t work for me cause I’m 60 and not in shape enough to make it.
Brutal!
Wow, where is this?
This once happened to me, and 30 years later I still feel the shame of not making it out
Thanks for confirming that the paddleout can be time consuming and tiring some days, but I don’t know how these big wave surfers do it. Often when seeing highlights, I like to think that they’re all okay out there, but these wipeouts here look pretty brutal.
*So how did Shane paddleout successfully the first time where the others didn’t? Nice barrel ride and good video, though.
Exhausting!
Redondo breakwater is sick!!! you can jump off the jetty and sit way further out than the “locals” and score a massive wedge
Ur so right. Paddle outs are way worse than wipeouts in my opinion. Wipeouts are rough and u have to hold ur breath, but u can get slammed almost as hard on paddle outs and ur arms get tired and they last a long time. If ur arms get tired and u can’t duckdive fully below a big wave, you’ll either get aggressively pushed back by the wave or have to ditch and ditching is a mess.
exactly, when the huge sets come in and you have to ditch it gets so sketchy
That very last wave, about 5:45, was great. Because he made it. Respect to all these young men, that day. Not easy, what they're doing. This is why I surf at point breaks. Even if my friends insult me for doing that. Taking the easy road. Less challenging. Less terrifying. High chance of survival.
My cardiologist said my heart is so strong because of surfing, but it's not from the paddling is from all the thousand of times holding your breath ducking, well I guess also taking sets on the head. So that makes all the time as a 12 year old I ended up sitting in the lineup crying for my mother, after finally making it out in an hour when it was big.
and thats why pros have machines at contests
Looks like there was some solid hold-downs that day 💀
Duck dive everything. Don’t bail when a 6 foot wave breaks in front of you. You CAN make it under. I usually make it out before my friends because if I duck dive when they bail, I still have my board in my hands to pull me back to the surface and keep momentum while they get dragged back.
I only got so many pushups in me. But I agree otherwise.
Congrats to everyone who paddle in big days without channel. You really love surf. Otherwise i hate paddle in those days cause i freak out and get desesperate. So, i dont surf in that conditions
@@edisondaud7552 yeah big beach breaks are tough. I usually spend more time studying it and timing the sets. I’ll look for what I think is the best paddle out spot with the best chances and then start paddling at the beginning of the set. I’ll take a few on the head but they’ll have dissipated a bit by the time they get to me. Then I’m already half way out when the next lull kicks in. It’s not a perfect science but it’s helped me get out easier on big days
@@ltethe oh yeah, I hear ya! Those tris and shoulders get tired!!!
3:40 holy 🤯
Many many times at OB in frisco I spent hour long paddle outs just to get one wave......................why? Because that one wave made my day!
Hammerland
really lives up to its name!
Shane Gallas is such a beast
Oh man. 4:30 gave me memories of a day I didn’t want to remember. Ha ha.
I missed my calling.. to . Such a great lifestyle.
Sucks when there is isn’t a channel in the sand bar. I always try to find the rip and let the current do the work.
The scariest part of surfing is not wipeouts it's being unable to get a shot at a good set wave due to the mind numbing crowds
I got pinned against the rocks in SoCal and that got scary. Ocean 🌊 Beach San Francisco paddle outs when it’s big are challenging
So you want to learn to surf? This is the reality. These guys ain't beginners, but for a beginner a 4' to 6' day can be just like this. Where I grew up on Long island, very few spots had an actual channel , but it always changed with the sand bars shifting. And during hurricane swells, many bad memories of paddling forward , but moving backwards, wave after wave after wave after wave...And just when you think you made it, getting over that last wave that was feathering but hadn't broke yet, BAM..There's 6 more behind it breaking further out than the last barrage you just went through 😳😂
siick!
Nothing like getting roof sized shacks in the wintertime 🤙
Luckily haven’t had too many scary wipeouts 🤙
Paddle out?? Now that instills a different level of fear in me 🤙
This looks like a normal day at OB …SF..
Reminds me of a PSSA contest at Ocean Beach in San Francisco in 1985 when MIke Cruickshank was the only pro that could consistently make it out and ride waves and win the contest.
He was a man amongst boys that day.@@JohnDoe-ko5xl
He also rescued a swimmer in trouble during the middle of his heat at Ocean Beach. Legend.
1:33 'definitely the most hair-raising' while showing a clip of a bald surfer, I saw what you did there!
Paddleouts at big porto put hair on your chest
It doesn't matter how you identify: you're gettin' hair on your chest.
Swellbender
Fucking insane dudes
Sometimes wipeout are fun
If you grow up surfing beach break and big beach break swells you can surf anywhere else in the world
Why tf did I watch that??? Pure. Fricking. Torture.
Surfing is such a misleading name for the sport. Should be Paddling
As a swimmer, I’m much better at paddling than surfing, but not in big waves like this!
I don’t understand why you name spots up North and blow up those spots up but don’t name your local spots. Things are changing up North of you be careful.
nice AI text
That's how that spot got its name...