Thank you so much! seen these bronze bushings but wasn't sure if those fits my shifter or not, got same Hurst shifter and your video was EXACTLY what i was looking for. Cheers!
I just finished this mod. I removed the shift paul on the top of the transmission (6:18). Wow, that was not for the faint of heart, even with my driveshaft removed it was a difficult. Now the rest of the mod was easy. But that part on the trans, they must put some strong thread locker on that. On the tightening of the nuts, (3:43) if you tighten them down too tight the shifter will be too tight. Only takes a smidge of a loosening of the nut to make it perfect. Overall a great mod to do (now that it's done).
currently got a "knock-off" kit same exact thing but no H branding,... the thing is those bushings are the culprits i have not installed it but i think it will do well with the bushings that didn't arrive with the kit thnx for the vid....
I’ve looked everywhere for those brass bushings for the shift linkage rod nowhere to be found and if I did find them they were sold out all they have is the plastic ones so if anyone knows where to find those brass linkage bushing comments below. Also this video seems like a easy tutorial to follow along to great content.
I got them from a company called AMP distributors. I’ve also seen them up in eBay and Amazon but I checked just now and see what you mean haha. I’d email AMP and see how long roughly until they have them back in stock.
I experienced this problem after I got my clutch installed 2 weeks later on my 09 gt. I replaced the factory bushings with prothane shifter bushings thinking that would fix the play, but the play was still there just not as much, so I upgraded to a Barton short shifter it helped for the first week but after 1 week my shifter started having play again till this day..
The tr3650 shifter I find is sloppy in general. Replacing all the bushings including the linkage itself is about as good as it gets. The only other thing I’ve seen that might be better is there is an aftermarket bracket you can get that bolts it directly to the transmission. www.americanmuscle.com/blowfish-v2-shifter-support-bracket-tr3650-0510-gt.html looks pretty cool but I don’t personally know anyone that’s tried it.
If you put a washer on where the linkage connects to the transmission on the flare nut it removes 90% of the play. I used the old bushing and cut it to make a washer and sandwiched it between the new bronze bushing and the rubber cap. That is where most of the slop is located in the linkages system FYI.
@@romanbaranyk5177 Interesting. I have a 2010 with everything thrown at it and it still have play. MGW flatstick shifter, AMP bronze bushings, Blowfish V2 bracket, CHE torque limiter with rod ends on both ends, new powertorque (metal body) master cylinder, McLeod braided clutch line and a new trans mount bushing. I still get lockout at high RPM and I still have more play that I feel a manual trans should have... I'll have to try the washer next.
@@patrickseamohm6496 Yeah, I'm thinking that that might be the route to go. I'm tempted to just throw a cheap ass clutch (due to the 10 spline) in it and see what happens. If it doesn't fix it, T56 magnum XL time.
hey bro, I watched your video the problem with mine was the bolt that you were talking about was a 14 mm mine came out and caused me not to be able to shift with any 14 mm bolt with the same thread at work
@@John-zv6gw Nice name. I ended up just replacing the shifter with a Hurst one, and then used washers behind those little dust boots, and at the front of the new shifter to help stiffen things up and it feels really good now.
So these bushings and this procedure won’t work on the V6 T5. I’m trying to figure out how to do it on the T5 but when I look up the bushings it says T5& TR3650 like they are interchangeable.
Did mine a couple days ago and went to unscrew the top bolt that connects the linkage to the transmission, there was a Ton Of resistance. I managed to back it out a little but it didn’t feel right so I tightened it back down. Was there the same amount of resistance for you? Car has zero rust or corrosion.
Yeah it was pretty tight for me. Awkward spot too. Did you remove the rear part of the linkage first? If not maybe it was binding. It’s like a pin that goes right through with threads on just the end.
@@bpifitness7406 yea I removed the rear linkage first, the bushing in that piece that connects to the trans felt pretty good so I am leaving it for now. Is that block that connects to the trans steel or aluminum? Because it felt like that strippy feeling worried about chewing the threads up.
Yeah definitely worth looking at. What happens is those large poly bushings start to wear and then the play starts to affect the ones in the linkage. I’d go under and grab onto the bracket, give it a shake and you feel there’s play, I’d replace them.
I'm having an issue where it shifts fine, but the shifter doesn't "stay". I can hammer 1 2 3 4 5 no issues, but when it's in gear the shifter has way to much play side to side. will these brass bushings correct that as well?
Great 🎉 video, been searching for years for this linkage subject and it’s issues regarding the tr3650 and it’s lock out issues at higher rpm’s , did the new bushings solve this lock out issue at high rpm’s ..???, not sure if you had these lock out issues, just hoping that your fix helps with my lock out issues at high rpm’s and that this helps with the “Blowfish support bracket “ and my new “Barton short shifter “ the Blowfish support bracket takes the assembly from a remote bolted to the body shifter to a bracket mounted shifter that mounts to the transmission and it’s transmission mount assembly…any how thanks for sharing 🙏
I didn’t have lockout issues, but I also don’t do any track days. It was just really worn and sloppy. Hard to make fast accurate shifts. It is way better now. That bracket should make a huge difference too though. If what you’re doing doesn’t work then nothing will. (T56 swap😆)
was that front bushing eassy to get out.. do you think you couldve gotten it off and installed the other one without taking out the rest of the shifter? i just want to do the one bushing. the others look good.
Over the years I’ve had all the issues discussed haha. The swaybar bushings are the easiest and most common though. If your end links don’t feel lose I’d change the bushings first for sure. Even if they don’t look bad they can make a ton of noise.
@@bpifitness7406 like the shifter bushings. If I have a bunch of slop first hand. Will replacing with the red ones help for a while without doing the brass yet
@@savagescabs9312 omg sorry I thought this comment was on the other vid lol. Yes the poly bushings were the most worn on mine they def made the biggest difference. The brass ones just further improved it and tbh I think the poly ones being so worn is what led to the ones in the linkage getting worn.
@@bpifitness7406 lost a part but ordered the new one and got it installed and it feels great man. BIG DIFFERENCE ! My bushings were so worn out… great video man, THANKS !
@@bpifitness7406 awesome! Man I just got these I installed them and shifting was super stiff, like I could barely move my shifter up and down. Did you have this problem at all?
@@bpifitness7406okay thank you, after thinking a lot on it I believe I know where I made the mistake. I believe I mixed up the pair of bushings going on the shifter handle and the pair on top of the trans. I believe I put the thicker ones on the handle which is causing the issue. Thank you for your responses!
This is the BEST video on swapping the s197 shifter
Thank you so much! seen these bronze bushings but wasn't sure if those fits my shifter or not, got same Hurst shifter and your video was EXACTLY what i was looking for. Cheers!
I've been searching for weeks for that front bushing. Thanks a heap!
You’re welcome! Hope it helped.
Installed this and wow what a difference!!! Probably one of the best purchases yet!!!
I just finished this mod. I removed the shift paul on the top of the transmission (6:18). Wow, that was not for the faint of heart, even with my driveshaft removed it was a difficult. Now the rest of the mod was easy. But that part on the trans, they must put some strong thread locker on that. On the tightening of the nuts, (3:43) if you tighten them down too tight the shifter will be too tight. Only takes a smidge of a loosening of the nut to make it perfect. Overall a great mod to do (now that it's done).
It helped me!!!! Thank you!!!
currently got a "knock-off" kit same exact thing but no H branding,... the thing is those bushings are the culprits i have not installed it but i think it will do well with the bushings that didn't arrive with the kit thnx for the vid....
I’ve looked everywhere for those brass bushings for the shift linkage rod nowhere to be found and if I did find them they were sold out all they have is the plastic ones so if anyone knows where to find those brass linkage bushing comments below.
Also this video seems like a easy tutorial to follow along to great content.
I got them from a company called AMP distributors. I’ve also seen them up in eBay and Amazon but I checked just now and see what you mean haha. I’d email AMP and see how long roughly until they have them back in stock.
Ever find any other good suppliers?
That is great. Thanx brother. You should make more videos
Cheers man. I plan to!
I experienced this problem after I got my clutch installed 2 weeks later on my 09 gt. I replaced the factory bushings with prothane shifter bushings thinking that would fix the play, but the play was still there just not as much, so I upgraded to a Barton short shifter it helped for the first week but after 1 week my shifter started having play again till this day..
The tr3650 shifter I find is sloppy in general. Replacing all the bushings including the linkage itself is about as good as it gets. The only other thing I’ve seen that might be better is there is an aftermarket bracket you can get that bolts it directly to the transmission. www.americanmuscle.com/blowfish-v2-shifter-support-bracket-tr3650-0510-gt.html looks pretty cool but I don’t personally know anyone that’s tried it.
dude this video helped so much, thanks a bunch
That’s awesome you’re welcome! Glad it helped.
If you put a washer on where the linkage connects to the transmission on the flare nut it removes 90% of the play. I used the old bushing and cut it to make a washer and sandwiched it between the new bronze bushing and the rubber cap. That is where most of the slop is located in the linkages system FYI.
Totally. That’s actually a good idea.
@@bpifitness7406 90% of the side to side play in the shifter disappeared after I through in that washer.
@@romanbaranyk5177 Interesting. I have a 2010 with everything thrown at it and it still have play.
MGW flatstick shifter, AMP bronze bushings, Blowfish V2 bracket, CHE torque limiter with rod ends on both ends, new powertorque (metal body) master cylinder, McLeod braided clutch line and a new trans mount bushing. I still get lockout at high RPM and I still have more play that I feel a manual trans should have...
I'll have to try the washer next.
@@DickGazInYa had the same issue at that point I jus replaced the transmission and wa lah
@@patrickseamohm6496 Yeah, I'm thinking that that might be the route to go. I'm tempted to just throw a cheap ass clutch (due to the 10 spline) in it and see what happens. If it doesn't fix it, T56 magnum XL time.
hey bro, I watched your video the problem with mine was the bolt that you were talking about was a 14 mm mine came out and caused me not to be able to shift with any 14 mm bolt with the same thread at work
Thanks! Been looking at fixing the root cause of my sloppy shifter
Where did you find those bushings? I clicked on the link and they’re sold out :(
@@John-zv6gw Nice name. I ended up just replacing the shifter with a Hurst one, and then used washers behind those little dust boots, and at the front of the new shifter to help stiffen things up and it feels really good now.
So these bushings and this procedure won’t work on the V6 T5. I’m trying to figure out how to do it on the T5 but when I look up the bushings it says T5& TR3650 like they are interchangeable.
Not interchangeable. T5 linkage feels way better than these ones though from my experience. Maybe just throw a short shifter in?
Part number for the linkage I can’t find the part anywhere
So I bought brass bushings, but when I installed them it's REDICULOUSLY tight to shift. Is that normal?
Hard to say without feeling it. Should be tight for sure but not difficult I would say
Did mine a couple days ago and went to unscrew the top bolt that connects the linkage to the transmission, there was a Ton Of resistance. I managed to back it out a little but it didn’t feel right so I tightened it back down. Was there the same amount of resistance for you? Car has zero rust or corrosion.
Yeah it was pretty tight for me. Awkward spot too. Did you remove the rear part of the linkage first? If not maybe it was binding. It’s like a pin that goes right through with threads on just the end.
@@bpifitness7406 yea I removed the rear linkage first, the bushing in that piece that connects to the trans felt pretty good so I am leaving it for now. Is that block that connects to the trans steel or aluminum? Because it felt like that strippy feeling worried about chewing the threads up.
@@romanbaranyk5177 yeah good call. Pretty sure it’s aluminum. Why risk it haha
Replaced my clutch but whenever I go into first it kicks me out of gear then let’s me go in on the second try 🤔
sounds like the synchros might be going out on ur first gear
Great video man appreciate it, do you happen to know if this works for oem shifter as well?
Yeah definitely worth looking at. What happens is those large poly bushings start to wear and then the play starts to affect the ones in the linkage. I’d go under and grab onto the bracket, give it a shake and you feel there’s play, I’d replace them.
I'm having an issue where it shifts fine, but the shifter doesn't "stay". I can hammer 1 2 3 4 5 no issues, but when it's in gear the shifter has way to much play side to side.
will these brass bushings correct that as well?
No, mines like that too
@@bpifitness7406 darn. So this didn't fix it eh?
Any idea how to actually fix that?
Not that I know of. I think that’s just how they are cause of the way the linkage is set up. Every one of driven was floppy like that.
@@bpifitness7406 darn. It wasn't like that originally. Just got worse and worse. Guess it's something you live when when it's almost a 20 year old car
@@TratzPatratz yeah. Always thought it would be cool to swap to a t56 but probably not worth it haha
Can you please let me know where you get all those parts from? Thanks
At the time I got them from eBay
Actually the red ones were from summit
Great 🎉 video, been searching for years for this linkage subject and it’s issues regarding the tr3650 and it’s lock out issues at higher rpm’s , did the new bushings solve this lock out issue at high rpm’s ..???, not sure if you had these lock out issues, just hoping that your fix helps with my lock out issues at high rpm’s and that this helps with the “Blowfish support bracket “ and my new “Barton short shifter “ the Blowfish support bracket takes the assembly from a remote bolted to the body shifter to a bracket mounted shifter that mounts to the transmission and it’s transmission mount assembly…any how thanks for sharing 🙏
I didn’t have lockout issues, but I also don’t do any track days. It was just really worn and sloppy. Hard to make fast accurate shifts. It is way better now. That bracket should make a huge difference too though. If what you’re doing doesn’t work then nothing will. (T56 swap😆)
Thank you so much. You helped alot
Does this apply to the v6 model too? My trans has some grinding problems too
No. Different tranny in the v6
was that front bushing eassy to get out.. do you think you couldve gotten it off and installed the other one without taking out the rest of the shifter? i just want to do the one bushing. the others look good.
The front red one?
@@bpifitness7406 yeah. the one you put in off camera.
Yeah that one’s super easy just a poly bushing on either side with a steel cylinder running through for the bolt.
Where can I find that bracket at
Did replacing the poly bushings give you and help at all by them selves?
Over the years I’ve had all the issues discussed haha. The swaybar bushings are the easiest and most common though. If your end links don’t feel lose I’d change the bushings first for sure. Even if they don’t look bad they can make a ton of noise.
@@bpifitness7406 like the shifter bushings. If I have a bunch of slop first hand. Will replacing with the red ones help for a while without doing the brass yet
@@savagescabs9312 omg sorry I thought this comment was on the other vid lol. Yes the poly bushings were the most worn on mine they def made the biggest difference. The brass ones just further improved it and tbh I think the poly ones being so worn is what led to the ones in the linkage getting worn.
@@bpifitness7406 I appreciate it man. Just been sitting here contemplating on what I should do before throwing a short throw in it
@@savagescabs9312 if you get a short throw it might come with new bushings
Will the parts fit on my original stock shifter as well?
Yeah. 90% sure. Been a long time since I swapped to after market shifter but from what I recall the factory bushings were the same.
@@bpifitness7406 lost a part but ordered the new one and got it installed and it feels great man. BIG DIFFERENCE ! My bushings were so worn out… great video man, THANKS !
Need these, unfortunately they are sold out now🥴
Do you still have these bushings I’ll buy them off you I need them bad I’ll play double what you paid
Did you ever find any they say sold out smh
@@BryanRayz did you find any?
Hey man I got a couple questions, you still active?
Sure, fire away!
@@bpifitness7406 awesome! Man I just got these I installed them and shifting was super stiff, like I could barely move my shifter up and down. Did you have this problem at all?
@@presleycantrell5145 I would say very slightly for the first test run but no not as stiff as you’re describing. Sounds odd
@@bpifitness7406okay thank you, after thinking a lot on it I believe I know where I made the mistake. I believe I mixed up the pair of bushings going on the shifter handle and the pair on top of the trans. I believe I put the thicker ones on the handle which is causing the issue. Thank you for your responses!
@@bpifitness7406if that’s even possible, I’ll take it apart tomorrow and see what I messed up lol