thank you for sharing your master experience and expertise . amazing job on this video not only was it educational but also very descriptive as well . did perfect with the camera angles too I cannot thank you enough for this video . this means more to me then you will ever know . thank you so much !
Hello, do you recall a part number or the type of thread that you used for the longer forcing screw? I need to pull the 5th output gear on my E250F and I will order that OTC tool. Also is it generally okay to evenly install the driven gear back on with a hammer/deadblow?
Unfortunately right now I don't have that thread information. I have run into a few different forcing screws. I Might be able to check in a few days when I go to the shop. Don't hit right on the gear but instead find a metal pipe that fits the inner diameter so it doesn't hit the gear teeth then you can hammer it on by hammering on the pipe.
@@DrivelineMaster I got you, I ended up modifying a pitman arm puller to get that gear off. I’m also replacing the bearing plate as part of the TSB to fix the issue, but I notice the spacer ring that’s under the plate, that contacts the output bearing race is a bit worn down out of center on the side, just a couple thou. Think it is safe to reuse that spacer ring if I just smooth over that step so it’s all parallel again (but a couple thou undersize from what it was)
If you have a spacer between the bearing race and the bearing plate check to see if you have tapered roller bearings. if you do, that spacer is used to set a preload on the bearings. It doesn't need to be perfectly round as long as it contacts the bearing race properly but more importantly is the thickness. I don't remember if I covered this in my video's because the transaxle in the video uses ball bearings and roller bearings instead of tapered roller bearings. If your output shaft has tapered roller bearings you need to add an extra step to the assembly. After overhauling your output shaft and replacing the bearings and races put only the output shaft (No diff or input shaft) into the lower housing. Put the upper housing on the lower aligning the output shaft. Torque the lower housing bolts in place. All of them. Install the upper bearing race, spacer (shim) and bearing plate. Torque the plate to specification. Put the nut onto the output shaft and make it just tight enough so the shaft will turn with the nut. Use and inch pound dial or beam torque wrench (can't use a click style) and rotate the output shaft with the torque wrench and note the value on the torque wrench. A digital torque wrench may work but I have never tired to use one. This is the bearing preload. Compare that to the manual for the specification. A thicker shim will increase the rolling resistance and a thinner one will decrease it. If you need a spec let me know what the transaxle came out of (year, make, model, engine) and I will see if I can look it up for you.
@@DrivelineMasterSo it is a 1996 RAV4 3sfe engine and I believe it’s the E250F transaxle. The transmission is still in the car, I only opened that access panel on the driver side to replace the parts referenced in TSBTC001-01. Of course 1996 isn’t listed on there but I hope this fixes my issue of fifth popping out of gear under load. Maybe I’m confused but I’m not touching the main bearings that at the end of the in/output shafts under the bearing retainer plate.
I have the C150 gearbox that has the 0.825 5th gear. Looking to get the 0.725 5th gear from a C53 gearbox for better fuel economy. 2 things i'm worried about and that's if it will work and not strain my engine too much.
I can not verify that this will work but you will need to replace both gears for a matching pair. You might find that the overdrive gear ratio is about the same. Most Toyota Transaxles have a 5th gear overdrive ratio of nothing smaller than .7:1. Count the teeth on both gears and calculate the ratio. I have a video on calculating gear ratios.
@@DrivelineMaster I see this one has the 0:725 5th gear as i've checked the ratio's on a C51. My 5th gear is 0:815. I can only try and have been told the conversion would drop the revs by 400 rpm. Hopefully it's not too much for my engine but it has 97bhp and does pull well from 2500rpm
Michael, I do not know if the higher 5th gear ratio would create a problem for your engine or not. I do suspect that a team of engineers that are paid above my pay grade who had all the specifications and documentations available to them decided that the 5th gear ratio that you have is the correct ratio for your engine and vehicle. I know the price of gas is hurting all of us but unless you spend a ton of time every week on a road that will allow you a steady 65+ MPH for many, many miles of steady driving I really don't think you will see a very big advantage in gas consumption to make this conversion worth while. If you do this and it's too rough on your engine at lower speeds you will end up using more gas and putting unnecessary load and wear on your engine and clutch. Another thought would be to change your final drive ratio but this will impact all gears. I don't even know if this conversion is available or possible. Good Luck to you.
@@DrivelineMaster I can only try it and if i find the revs are too low in 5th gear for it to accelerate nicely i can change it back. I also have the option of fitting bigger wheels too.
You might have a C51. In anyway showing how to remove the synchronizer hub on those types of transaxles are on my bucket list. It takes a special puller that has a really thin lip on the end of a puller jaw. Those jaws have to be placed under 5th drive gear and you pull the gear and synchronizer hub off together. If I could add a picture to this comment I would.
@@DrivelineMasteris there a way you can help me too I'm having trouble with my 95 paseo the synchronizer hub doesn't have holes and I've been trying to find a puller for it but no luck
Yes, that is a challenging one. I never got around to showing the tool to use for that. Unfortunately the tool I used is costly. Let me see if I can find and recommend something for you. Don't use screwdrivers and try to leverage it off. You will chip the gear teeth every time. This might work. The key is not just choosing the one that fits the diameter of your hub and gear but the jaws need to be super thin to fit under the gear. For the price if the jaws are too thick you could try grinding them down. keep the cool. too much heat will damage the hardness and they won't be effective. The factory tool part number is: 09213-3602. If you can get a hold of SPX/Miller tools you might be able to get it directly from them. www.amazon.com/dp/B077M6NZJH/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=24bfe1efec3ddfb225a925d7e0feefca&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a%3Aamzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a&hsa_cr_id=5986658870701&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=b0aa52d4-fa3e-41f7-85e7-43a1be08ecd7&pd_rd_w=A9FOM&pd_rd_wg=KIs3f&qid=1692762227&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_2_title&sr=1-3-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1
The tricky part is finding a puller with very thin flat jaws. Although I'm now retired I'm planning on returning to the school where I worked and have all these tools in a few days. I will try to get some more puller information for you once I'm there. I will post to you again in a few days if you want to hold off on the puller from Amazon.
thank you for sharing your master experience and expertise . amazing job on this video not only was it educational but also very descriptive as well . did perfect with the camera angles too I cannot thank you enough for this video . this means more to me then you will ever know . thank you so much !
Thank you for your praise. This is one of the reasons why I make educational videos. To help others without wasting their time.
Hello, do you recall a part number or the type of thread that you used for the longer forcing screw? I need to pull the 5th output gear on my E250F and I will order that OTC tool. Also is it generally okay to evenly install the driven gear back on with a hammer/deadblow?
Unfortunately right now I don't have that thread information. I have run into a few different forcing screws. I Might be able to check in a few days when I go to the shop. Don't hit right on the gear but instead find a metal pipe that fits the inner diameter so it doesn't hit the gear teeth then you can hammer it on by hammering on the pipe.
@@DrivelineMaster I got you, I ended up modifying a pitman arm puller to get that gear off. I’m also replacing the bearing plate as part of the TSB to fix the issue, but I notice the spacer ring that’s under the plate, that contacts the output bearing race is a bit worn down out of center on the side, just a couple thou. Think it is safe to reuse that spacer ring if I just smooth over that step so it’s all parallel again (but a couple thou undersize from what it was)
If you have a spacer between the bearing race and the bearing plate check to see if you have tapered roller bearings. if you do, that spacer is used to set a preload on the bearings. It doesn't need to be perfectly round as long as it contacts the bearing race properly but more importantly is the thickness. I don't remember if I covered this in my video's because the transaxle in the video uses ball bearings and roller bearings instead of tapered roller bearings. If your output shaft has tapered roller bearings you need to add an extra step to the assembly. After overhauling your output shaft and replacing the bearings and races put only the output shaft (No diff or input shaft) into the lower housing. Put the upper housing on the lower aligning the output shaft. Torque the lower housing bolts in place. All of them. Install the upper bearing race, spacer (shim) and bearing plate. Torque the plate to specification. Put the nut onto the output shaft and make it just tight enough so the shaft will turn with the nut. Use and inch pound dial or beam torque wrench (can't use a click style) and rotate the output shaft with the torque wrench and note the value on the torque wrench. A digital torque wrench may work but I have never tired to use one. This is the bearing preload. Compare that to the manual for the specification. A thicker shim will increase the rolling resistance and a thinner one will decrease it. If you need a spec let me know what the transaxle came out of (year, make, model, engine) and I will see if I can look it up for you.
@@DrivelineMasterSo it is a 1996 RAV4 3sfe engine and I believe it’s the E250F transaxle. The transmission is still in the car, I only opened that access panel on the driver side to replace the parts referenced in TSBTC001-01. Of course 1996 isn’t listed on there but I hope this fixes my issue of fifth popping out of gear under load. Maybe I’m confused but I’m not touching the main bearings that at the end of the in/output shafts under the bearing retainer plate.
@@DrivelineMaster it is indeed a tapered bearing though
I have the C150 gearbox that has the 0.825 5th gear. Looking to get the 0.725 5th gear from a C53 gearbox for better fuel economy. 2 things i'm worried about and that's if it will work and not strain my engine too much.
I can not verify that this will work but you will need to replace both gears for a matching pair. You might find that the overdrive gear ratio is about the same. Most Toyota Transaxles have a 5th gear overdrive ratio of nothing smaller than .7:1. Count the teeth on both gears and calculate the ratio. I have a video on calculating gear ratios.
@@DrivelineMaster I see this one has the 0:725 5th gear as i've checked the ratio's on a C51. My 5th gear is 0:815. I can only try and have been told the conversion would drop the revs by 400 rpm. Hopefully it's not too much for my engine but it has 97bhp and does pull well from 2500rpm
Michael, I do not know if the higher 5th gear ratio would create a problem for your engine or not. I do suspect that a team of engineers that are paid above my pay grade who had all the specifications and documentations available to them decided that the 5th gear ratio that you have is the correct ratio for your engine and vehicle. I know the price of gas is hurting all of us but unless you spend a ton of time every week on a road that will allow you a steady 65+ MPH for many, many miles of steady driving I really don't think you will see a very big advantage in gas consumption to make this conversion worth while. If you do this and it's too rough on your engine at lower speeds you will end up using more gas and putting unnecessary load and wear on your engine and clutch. Another thought would be to change your final drive ratio but this will impact all gears. I don't even know if this conversion is available or possible. Good Luck to you.
@@DrivelineMaster I can only try it and if i find the revs are too low in 5th gear for it to accelerate nicely i can change it back. I also have the option of fitting bigger wheels too.
my c52 doesn’t have the holes oh no. even the service manual shows them :(
You might have a C51. In anyway showing how to remove the synchronizer hub on those types of transaxles are on my bucket list. It takes a special puller that has a really thin lip on the end of a puller jaw. Those jaws have to be placed under 5th drive gear and you pull the gear and synchronizer hub off together. If I could add a picture to this comment I would.
@@DrivelineMasteris there a way you can help me too I'm having trouble with my 95 paseo the synchronizer hub doesn't have holes and I've been trying to find a puller for it but no luck
Yes, that is a challenging one. I never got around to showing the tool to use for that. Unfortunately the tool I used is costly. Let me see if I can find and recommend something for you. Don't use screwdrivers and try to leverage it off. You will chip the gear teeth every time. This might work. The key is not just choosing the one that fits the diameter of your hub and gear but the jaws need to be super thin to fit under the gear. For the price if the jaws are too thick you could try grinding them down. keep the cool. too much heat will damage the hardness and they won't be effective. The factory tool part number is: 09213-3602. If you can get a hold of SPX/Miller tools you might be able to get it directly from them. www.amazon.com/dp/B077M6NZJH/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=24bfe1efec3ddfb225a925d7e0feefca&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a%3Aamzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a&hsa_cr_id=5986658870701&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=b0aa52d4-fa3e-41f7-85e7-43a1be08ecd7&pd_rd_w=A9FOM&pd_rd_wg=KIs3f&qid=1692762227&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_2_title&sr=1-3-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1
@@DrivelineMaster Thank you so much for taking time to reply back asap! I will check it out and hopefully I can get it.
The tricky part is finding a puller with very thin flat jaws. Although I'm now retired I'm planning on returning to the school where I worked and have all these tools in a few days. I will try to get some more puller information for you once I'm there. I will post to you again in a few days if you want to hold off on the puller from Amazon.