Toyota Exhaust Stud Repair, Oxygen Sensor, NO WELDING, Rusted out Stud Extraction (1998 Rav4 shown)
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- This DIY shows how to repair rusted off, broken exhaust studs used to hold the oxygen sensor in place, using an ARES 70016 stud extractor. This repair is similar for many models and other places where broken studs are found, particular on exhaust systems.
Check the Pinned Comment or below for Timestamps, Part Numbers, Tool info, Torque values:
00:30 Diagnostics
01:45 Other parts missing on the exhaust system shown
Oxygen sensor shield: Toyota 89437-60030
Catalytic converter shield: Toyota 18435-20020
03:00 Exhaust leak sound from the exterior
03:13 Exhaust leak sound from the interior
03:50 Repair options
05:37 Stud removal tools, ARES 70016
08:50 Install the stud remover
10:40 Heat the flange
11:05 Remove the stud
12:41 Same process on the other stud
14:55 How to remove the stud from the tool
15:24 Welding/drilling options if the stud extractor doesn't work for you
18:18 Autozon rental tool kit: OEM 57142 Tools Thread Restorer Kit
19:10 Use the M8x1.25 thread chaser to clean the threaded holes
24:35 Replacement stud and nut options:
Toyota studs: 90126-08001
Toyota pinch nuts: 90179-08059
NAPA/Dorman studs shown: Napa 605-1347, Dorman 23737
Lock nuts shown: Needa Parts 005790
Dorman flanged lock nuts: Dorman 432-308
26:27 Overview of the two-nut method to install studs
28:17 Install the new studs using the two-nut method
30:26 Check thread elevation, if you're using odd studs
32:14 Install the gasket (Toyota 89466-20020, Dorman 47021)
32:30 Install the nuts (torque is 32 ft-lbs)
34:32 Interior sound, after repair
35:04 Exterior sound, after repair
35:16 Check for exhaust leaks with soapy water
I hope this video was helpful for you.
Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair! : )
Timestamps, Part Numbers, Tool info, Torque values:
00:30 Diagnostics
01:45 Other parts missing on the exhaust system shown
Oxygen sensor shield: Toyota 89437-60030
Catalytic converter shield: Toyota 18435-20020
03:00 Exhaust leak sound from the exterior
03:13 Exhaust leak sound from the interior
03:50 Repair options
05:37 Stud removal tools, ARES 70016
08:50 Install the stud remover
10:40 Heat the flange
11:05 Remove the stud
12:41 Same process on the other stud
14:55 How to remove the stud from the tool
15:24 Welding/drilling options if the stud extractor doesn't work for you
18:18 Autozon rental tool kit: OEM 57142 Tools Thread Restorer Kit
19:10 Use the M8x1.25 thread chaser to clean the threaded holes
24:35 Replacement stud and nut options:
Toyota studs: 90126-08001
Toyota pinch nuts: 90179-08059
NAPA/Dorman studs shown: Napa 605-1347, Dorman 23737
Lock nuts shown: Needa Parts 005790
Dorman flanged lock nuts: Dorman 432-308
26:27 Overview of the two-nut method to install studs
28:17 Install the new studs using the two-nut method
30:26 Check thread elevation, if you're using odd studs
32:14 Install the gasket (Toyota 89466-20020, Dorman 47021)
32:30 Install the nuts (torque is 32 ft-lbs)
34:32 Interior sound, after repair
35:04 Exterior sound, after repair
35:16 Check for exhaust leaks with soapy water
I hope this video was helpful for you.
Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair! : )
You helped me out so much a few years back with your timing belt replacement on that Rav4. You’re an amazing person and mechanic, I’m now an apprentice mechanic myself and often think back to my emergency timing belt job that cold December in my driveway. Thank you for your exceptional attention to detail and great step by step instruction. I know it has helped many others.
Wow, that is SO COOL!! Thank you so much for sharing that story! : )
Best wishes to you on your apprenticeship!! : )
Amazing mechanic!!! Always look forward to your videos
Thank you! And thanks for watching : )
Hello dear madam, all your posts or episodes on RUclips are more than wonderful and much better than even the engineers of our Toyota dealer, and this is a fact and not a praise. You have published a lot of important things and there are only two episodes left, I think, which are 1- An episode about cleaning the injectors (disassembling and cleaning). 2-The second episode is about changing the automatic transmission oil. This is one of the most important episodes. (for rav4 1998)I hope you will do it, thank you very much
Love watching your videos - the amount of details and tips&tricks is just phenomenal and I would still watch your videos on the topic even if I’m fixing a different car!! Truly a mechanic’s bible!!! Thank you!!!
Thank you very much! Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching! : )
Amazing presentation as always. For the new studs, would you think applying nickel based anti-seize or synthetic brake grease (both are for high temp) will prevent future corrosion, therefore helping easier removal the next round?
That RAV4 sounds so good before the repair. It's like turning on sport exhaust button in AMG V8 😅
Haha, it did sound pretty good, but it drove rather poorly while making all the noise with that huge exhaust leak! : ) It wasn't having it, at all, going up slopes!
As for the anti-seize: I'm neutral on it for this application. I like anti-seize for lots of applications and have used it on exhaust fasteners before (the long bolt+spring types and some flange connections). It certainly helps for connections you'll likely have to open again, like the connection between an exhaust manifold and the first pipe. So, I don't think it's a bad idea or anything, but I didn't use it on these new studs. The "red wrench" (aka the torch!) is my go-to for removing stubborn fasteners on exhaust systems and underbellies because, as you know, rust/corrosion is usually they'll become uncooperative, haha : )
Thanks for adding your tips and thanks for watching! : )
Excellent detail "L35"! I also like how you place the timestamp info in the video and a pinned comment.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Another excellent video. Perfect time to check back pressure for cat
Indeed! Thanks for watching : )
Thanks for the awesome video sharing 😊
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Hello, dear madam! Do you have a video on how to remove and clean the fuel injectors for a 1998 RAV4?
No, I don't have such a video yet, but next time I do that job, I will make a video if I can. Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado
I hope you do that. Thank you very much
@@L35inColorado
Dear madam,
I have a problem and I need your help, please.
I used the original type of fuel injector cleaner (which is added to the fuel tank) from Toyota dealer and the car improved, and the fuel consumption decreased, and 20 liters of fuel would cover about 110 miles.
After a while, I decided to repeat the process in hopes that it would further improve. However, I used the fuel injector cleaner contrary to the written instructions on the box. I used the entire box for about 30 liters, while it was supposed to be used for 60 liters. As a result, the fuel consumption increased, and now 20 liters of fuel only covers 94 miles.
Please, what could be the problem that occurred, and what are the suggested solutions? I would appreciate your assistance.
cut these bolts and weld new one - it is 2 min job.
Yes, that's certainly an option (discussed at 04:30), for those with the parts and a welder! But I gotta say, the ARES stud extractor is a great option for those without a welder! Thanks for watching and adding your tips : )
Have ALWAYS loved your informative and detailed videos! Your vids show that you do the work 1000x better than most mechanics that I have seen! Honestly, I look at the cars you work on, and those are the cars that I want to buy!
A request: Could you do a rack and pinion change vid for Honda Accord 1998-2001 for 4 cylinder engine :-)? This is a typical power steering leak that the Honda Accord experiences quite a lot! Thanks!
Wow, thanks for your comment! I haven't done that job on an Accord, but if I ever get the chance, I will record it. Thanks for watching! : )
Get a new pipe with a bung. Find an o2 within your range and install the plug on the new one a d get rid of those stupid studs. Those are way obsolete by now. Noone uses those 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Also the cat is up by the manifold on this car it was built directly to exhaust manifold l. It could be considered a *second cat* but its nothing but a pipe with holes inside it packed with glass.
Yes, indeed, that repair option is discussed around 04:07, and is certainly a solution to this problem. However, in this case, that solutions requires more expense and effort than simply replacing the studs and re-using the original oxygen sensor, and it is also a more technical repair (my goal is always to try to show the most DIY-friendly approach, if possible!).
Additionally - and this might not be applicable where you live - but some jurisdictions (particularly cities/metro areas) have strict emissions inspections (sometimes called "smog tests"). These tests often include visual inspections - particularly with a mirror to look for modifications to the exhaust system. In these jurisdictions especially, it is a priority to keep repairs as "OEM" as possible to reduce the likelihood of an accusation of "emissions modification" and all the trouble and wasted time that comes with that!
Regarding the cats: the '98 Rav4 shown in the video is a Federal emissions version, so it has just one cat, which is the cat shown.
There are two configurations for the gen-1 Rav4 (and other Toyotas of that era). What you're describing with the TWC (three-way catalytic converter) at the exhaust manifold is the California emissions model (CARB-compliant). If you have an FSM, check out page EC-2, EC-14, and EC-15 to see what I mean.
The California/CARB models have two cats:
- the TWC at the manifold, which is called by Toyota the "Front TWC with Exhaust Manifold" and
- the second cat, which is called by Toyota the "Rear TWC" (which is located in the same spot as shown in the video).
The other, more common, configuration is the one seen in the video - which again is a single cat, as shown. Toyota calls this cat simple "TWC with pipe". These are the "Federal" emissions models.
The difference can be see either by inspection, or without inspection by running the VIN. Or, what's even easier is if the vehicle has its original hood, there is a sticker on the inside of the hood which states either Federal or California. The hood VIN sticker can be matched to the body VIN plate to confirm if the hood is original.
I hope that clears things up! Thanks for watching! : )
Great vid-- my two cents--if this doesnt work ill use a oxy/acy torch set that gets much hotter and QUICKLY heat the area around the stud. cheers
Yes indeed, that will get it nice and hot, very quickly! Thanks for adding your tips, and thanks for watching : )
Great job and informative. I liked your time stamps. I have an almost similar issue on my Rx300 but my studs are just rusted. Nut won't thread. So I've used a hose Clamp around the studs to hold the 02 in place no problem for years
That is a solution, too! Even wiring the sensor in place while waiting for parts can work to reduce the exhaust leak. If you're interested in a possible "free repair", see if you can get that Autozone rental of the Thread Restorer kit (18:18). You might be able to the use the M8x1.25 thread chaser (the one shaped like a nut) to clean up your rusted threads enough that you can get the nuts back on...? Just a thought!
If eventually you develop an exhaust leak that needs to be addressed (ie, the sound increased and you notice power loss, especially on hills), then hopefully the stud extractor works as well for you as it did for me! I was so surprised - I really thought I was going to have to plug in the welder!
But hey - you can probably run for a good while with everything clamped in place, too!
Thanks for watching and for adding your tip! : )
@@L35inColorado Thanks. Subd