unbelievable the amount of info i get from your vids. honestly the most useful and informative rotary channel i think ive ever seen, thanks a ton man, keep it up
Full rebuild bridgeport with ceramic apex seals , let it idle up to temp then cool, then straight onto the dyno and rev to 11K loves it haha. Great info for the average Joe though as always 👍
So I have a question. My brother has a '04 rx8 that was LS swapped but then swapped back to a rotary. It's freshly rebuilt but I don't think the previous owner told him by who. He's planning on selling it to me. What's a typical break in procedure I should follow?
I've thought about this and there are a lot of very experienced rotary heads that will show you why not to try it...... summed up tho..... no. Lol they're lubricating but not in the same way as a 2 stroke premix oil is.
Hey rad I have a few questions for you that would be better suited for a direct messaging. Is there any way to do that with you? Having issues with a 12a and need some advice.
I kept it under 3 k for 500 mph,, under 6k until I hit 1500. Oil change at 3k . Full seal change + hard seals. Also, question, do you happen to have a speedometer gear (entire assembly) for a 79-89 trans?
on a fc 13b, For the most part when a coolant seal fails, does the Iron also fail too in the same area as the seal? can u re-use the iron if it has minor pitting Or does it usually have massive damage and cannot re-use the iron?
I have seen where people have glued an apex seal spring into the coolant groove to patch the cracked area. I havent done it but you could try. Generally on FC if the coolant seals have failed. I'd assume at least one of the irons is broken but you may get lucky. Pitting and rust is up to you to decide what you're comfortable with using and in what build. I'd stack up a pretty junk engine just to stick in a car to tear up the driveway, but if I'm planning on using it for anything I'll be more selective
Unless I put new bearings in a engine I send it and hope for the best if its going to break let it break and try again. I haven't had any problems with that philosophy yet. The only time the engine has let me down is because I ran it lean or bad timing.
I’ll be doing a complete rebuild here soon and it will be my first time rebuilding anything rotary any tips for a first time I don’t want to phuck up anything
Don't rush the side seal spec process...... I took many breaks but all 12 took about 10 hours just in fitting the side seals for me..... maybe too cautious but I hear it's the longest part other than cleaning everything for most. And that's another one.... CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN AND CLEAN! lol
hey man, quick question... so i went with a large street port in my REW, question is. do i need to advance timing, or retard it for a street port. or does it depend. its single turbo by the way. not sure if it matters.
I would say that it may like a bit more timing than a stock port engine, but i would have your tuner make that recommendation, or get it on a dyno to find the optimal timing number.
So is it reasonable to re-use apex seals that are within spec? I mean to my monkey brain that makes sense but I don't know if the seals become compromised in any other way during use.
Yep. If they are within spec re use them. However. If you have to replace one of them. I'd do them all at the same time within reason. Say you break an apex seal 3k miles in and the rest are fine, then maybe just replace the one broken one. If you have 2 out of spec I'd just replace them all. And keep the corner pieces matched to the apex seal they came from
Just a suggestion. Make your videos scripted a bit more. Have a list of topics you want to run through. You will make the video appear more professional to everyone watching.
Usually find it tougher to script stuff. But I generally make a list of talking points. The holley sniper series will follow more of a scripted detail format. Let me know what you think!
Most engine builders do not follow the oem break in procedure. What I explained in the video is the result of both my experience having engines built by reputable shops, as well as talking to engine builders in the area to find out what they reccomend. If you have an engine rebuilt, I would follow what your builder reccomends vs what OEM mazda reccomends
Ya ur right but most of them are wrong cuz none know how the parts are manufactured and most of them are not engineers or have worked or know how proper oem procedures are done but if u take a look at one of the best rotary engine builders kayle mohan says about it u will know what i mean cuz its almost oem
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unbelievable the amount of info i get from your vids. honestly the most useful and informative rotary channel i think ive ever seen, thanks a ton man, keep it up
You're very welcome!!! let me know if you have any questions!!
Thank you for this! Got all the answers I needed. And shoutout James for keeping this going!
I have been watching your videos for a while, i'm from Trinidad and i think you are super intelligent.Keep it up
Thanks man!!! Crazy the distance these videos travel!!
Full rebuild bridgeport with ceramic apex seals , let it idle up to temp then cool, then straight onto the dyno and rev to 11K loves it haha. Great info for the average Joe though as always 👍
On my 2 stroke dirt bike engines I do 2 heat cycles and send it.
Is it usual for a rotary to need a little 2 cycle down the carb to help it start? Fresh rebuild new seals , barings, housings, the whole 9 yards
Where do you buy a new rotary engine?
Will you rebuilt engine for a new customer?
So I have a question. My brother has a '04 rx8 that was LS swapped but then swapped back to a rotary. It's freshly rebuilt but I don't think the previous owner told him by who. He's planning on selling it to me. What's a typical break in procedure I should follow?
Can Lucas oil or Marvel Mystery oil additive be used instead of 2 cycle oil ...
Good question i would pike to know as well
I've thought about this and there are a lot of very experienced rotary heads that will show you why not to try it...... summed up tho..... no. Lol they're lubricating but not in the same way as a 2 stroke premix oil is.
Great advice, where can i get OEM rebuild kits from? And thank you James for your contribution
Hey rad I have a few questions for you that would be better suited for a direct messaging. Is there any way to do that with you? Having issues with a 12a and need some advice.
I kept it under 3 k for 500 mph,, under 6k until I hit 1500. Oil change at 3k . Full seal change + hard seals. Also, question, do you happen to have a speedometer gear (entire assembly) for a 79-89 trans?
Can't find a mechanic to rebuild my rotory that isn't a shit show back yard job. I'll tackle it myself this winter.
You can do it!!
@@RADPotential with all the videos I've watched from you definitely!! Very informative.
on a fc 13b, For the most part when a coolant seal fails, does the Iron also fail too in the same area as the seal? can u re-use the iron if it has minor pitting Or does it usually have massive damage and cannot re-use the iron?
I have seen where people have glued an apex seal spring into the coolant groove to patch the cracked area. I havent done it but you could try. Generally on FC if the coolant seals have failed. I'd assume at least one of the irons is broken but you may get lucky. Pitting and rust is up to you to decide what you're comfortable with using and in what build. I'd stack up a pretty junk engine just to stick in a car to tear up the driveway, but if I'm planning on using it for anything I'll be more selective
Unless I put new bearings in a engine I send it and hope for the best if its going to break let it break and try again. I haven't had any problems with that philosophy yet. The only time the engine has let me down is because I ran it lean or bad timing.
lean and detonation...both my failed engine causes haha
I’ll be doing a complete rebuild here soon and it will be my first time rebuilding anything rotary any tips for a first time I don’t want to phuck up anything
Don't rush the side seal spec process...... I took many breaks but all 12 took about 10 hours just in fitting the side seals for me..... maybe too cautious but I hear it's the longest part other than cleaning everything for most. And that's another one.... CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN AND CLEAN! lol
hey man, quick question... so i went with a large street port in my REW, question is. do i need to advance timing, or retard it for a street port. or does it depend. its single turbo by the way. not sure if it matters.
I would say that it may like a bit more timing than a stock port engine, but i would have your tuner make that recommendation, or get it on a dyno to find the optimal timing number.
So is it reasonable to re-use apex seals that are within spec? I mean to my monkey brain that makes sense but I don't know if the seals become compromised in any other way during use.
Yep. If they are within spec re use them. However. If you have to replace one of them. I'd do them all at the same time within reason. Say you break an apex seal 3k miles in and the rest are fine, then maybe just replace the one broken one. If you have 2 out of spec I'd just replace them all. And keep the corner pieces matched to the apex seal they came from
Just a suggestion. Make your videos scripted a bit more. Have a list of topics you want to run through. You will make the video appear more professional to everyone watching.
Usually find it tougher to script stuff. But I generally make a list of talking points. The holley sniper series will follow more of a scripted detail format. Let me know what you think!
Dude check mazda breakin before posting vids most of the stuff ur saying is not right at all
Most engine builders do not follow the oem break in procedure. What I explained in the video is the result of both my experience having engines built by reputable shops, as well as talking to engine builders in the area to find out what they reccomend. If you have an engine rebuilt, I would follow what your builder reccomends vs what OEM mazda reccomends
Ya ur right but most of them are wrong cuz none know how the parts are manufactured and most of them are not engineers or have worked or know how proper oem procedures are done but if u take a look at one of the best rotary engine builders kayle mohan says about it u will know what i mean cuz its almost oem
Ill send him a message and see what he does for break in. thanks man!