Why couldn't you just open up the lower deck under where the tortoises will go? I assume that area under the upper level will eventually be hidden with scenery? If so,just make some holes big enough to work in.
The plan is to put some holes. I will have to be pretty precise as there is only about 3" width of plywood to place the switch machine. I will have to do it as the tortoise won't fit as it is. But maybe I can cut bigger holes without compromising structure.
Crossed my mind and I may relocate the screws. I noticed the plywood likes to warp so having multiple screws seems to be ideal. Also it may not make a difference at the far end where there is very little sub frame to screw into. I like your thinking though.
Hi, are you in Canada meaning winter and summer? To fix your track and tortoise issue, do not use cork, flex track and tortoise. Kato Unitrack has their switch machine built into the thickness of the switch itself. You will have to poke a hole for a wire for the switch but that’s it. Side benefit after you completed all this beautiful track work it won’t bend and expand and contract and run good depending on the season from the rails kinking. You can ballast Kato Unitrack still. The price of the track is more but if you add in tortoise, and cork you’re the same. Look up mike fifer Kato Unitrack and if reliability is something that’s important to you time to garbage the 1980s n scale technology.
cool video. i use gorilla construction adhesive to glue foam to foam or foam to wood. good luck with the build!
Why couldn't you just open up the lower deck under where the tortoises will go? I assume that area under the upper level will eventually be hidden with scenery? If so,just make some holes big enough to work in.
The plan is to put some holes. I will have to be pretty precise as there is only about 3" width of plywood to place the switch machine. I will have to do it as the tortoise won't fit as it is. But maybe I can cut bigger holes without compromising structure.
What's the point in using foam if your using plywood?
foam should be a bit quieter. I feel it gives a more consistently flat surface. Plus I can terraform for a more realistic landscape.
@@nscaler454 the one major issue I have with it is having to glue it down.
That curve at the end of that bridge may prove to be a problem, make it as wide as possible
Yeah. I think a 15" radius curve is the best I'll be able to do.
Pull The Track Away from the Wall about an Inch.
One screw between the tracks
Crossed my mind and I may relocate the screws. I noticed the plywood likes to warp so having multiple screws seems to be ideal. Also it may not make a difference at the far end where there is very little sub frame to screw into. I like your thinking though.
Looks good, but.....Don't make them curves to tight, it may be a problem down the line. Bob
Do you think a 15" radius at that spot would be too tight?
Work On the Bottom First then Work Up Later.
Hi, are you in Canada meaning winter and summer? To fix your track and tortoise issue, do not use cork, flex track and tortoise. Kato Unitrack has their switch machine built into the thickness of the switch itself. You will have to poke a hole for a wire for the switch but that’s it. Side benefit after you completed all this beautiful track work it won’t bend and expand and contract and run good depending on the season from the rails kinking. You can ballast Kato Unitrack still. The price of the track is more but if you add in tortoise, and cork you’re the same. Look up mike fifer Kato Unitrack and if reliability is something that’s important to you time to garbage the 1980s n scale technology.