Since nobody reply me, i figure out how to make the connections without burn the board controller. This is for those who face the same problem in the future. VIN + EAN connected on +12v || DIM connected to the pin 2 of the potentiometer, pin 1 of the potentiometer to GND, pin 3 to 5VDC supply. I used a 5k POT.
Your videos are all excellent and, as a layman trying to educate myself, I think shorter, more digestible ones are a great idea. Please keep them coming!
I haven't been able to find any information about the boards and how exactly to connect the dimming. Does anyone have any information? Which pot to use and how it is meant to be connected?
Good choice for subject. There is quite a lot of test equipment needing display CCFL replaced. The short video format is a good idea but don't neglect the longer more in depth videos - you great job producing videos and spreading knowledge. Thanks
The "quickies" are definitely interesting as well and worth to be continued, as long as the explanations of your solutions are still understandable. I always enjoy your vids, no matter how long they are..
Thank you for the short episodes!!! I never have time to look at longer episodes so I simply discard them. So please keep it up with this format ! 10mn max is good ! :)
An Engineer that fixes things thats pretty cool. We hired some retired engineers to help out in our repair business, I found them fun to work with, they like to re-design things.
I like the new short video. Of course, your long videos are great, but sometimes I want to watch an entire video and don't have an hour. (Playback at 1.25x or 1.5x on a PC is also a great way to watch more videos in less time.) That screen turned out very nicely, indeed! Thanks for sharing.
Of all the videos on youtube I look forward to yours the most, and these shorts would be a welcome addition. Thanks to you I'm contemplating switching from a digital to a more analog oriented EE degree ;)
+The Signal Path Blog since it is a constant current driver, reducing the number of LEDs connected will cause the current through each LED to go way above the rated one, which would explain the significant blue shift of the light. I would increase the sense resistor by at least a factor of 4, and then use the dim input to fine tune.
Please do more of these types of videos. I don't always have time to watch a 70 min RUclips video. Plus going over some of these basic things is also sometimes interesting.
Excellent! Please continue both styles of productions, they are both informative and very instructional! Thanks again for documenting your work for us!
Thx dude! I replaced the light and it only cost 12€... the company here wanted to do this repair for 500€ so I ordered the light from China ( eBay ). It is very easy to check if the backlight is broken... just hold or press a flashlight on the screen. If you can see something, than just replace the light.
Did you use a potentiometer to drop the brightness? any tips for the rest of us? Are the yellow wires for brightness control and if so how do they work?
@@scottvance74 I just ordered an original backlight and installed it. So no wiring needed. You don’t even need an potentiometer. If you want to replace it with a LED than I’d suggest just trying some resistors. So directly wiring it to the factory cables with nothing between it. This should work right?
@@B58B30 The available parts I'm seeing have a series/parallel network and require about 8V to drive them. The inverters that do this are usually powered by a 12V source. My output (to drive the old CCFL) is 5V. I found that most of these have a diming function, so by either using that and/or changing the current sense resistor on the LED driving board, I think that I can solve the issue. Thanks for your feedback.
Great addition to your long videos. Like them both and really appreciate the time and effort that you put into them. I subscribe to a number of electronics related videos and I consistently get the most value out of yours.
Awesome! I have to say that I enjoy your long episodes and watch them start to finish. But I know short videos will allow you to record more stuff in the lab, and hopefully they will be less burdensome in prep and editing. Thumbs up to TSP Shorts!
Nice short video, like some sort of behind scenes of things you also do. Would be nice if you add the source of the drive and strip. Also how did you "glued" the strip to the panel? Nice to also know those details.
Thanks for the great video! I recently bought the same 27 inch led strips with that DF6113 driver and 15N10L mosfet but it never produced enough backlight light on a HP 25 inch TV. Which was because the strips had turned in their holders inside my TV. Which was fixed by gluing them to the white plastic top and bottom reflectors. The driver module board I received had no second e-cap and was REV:03. I wouldn't advice anyone to use this board above 12V because my board became very hot instantly and after 10 minutes or so it short circuited and got up in smoke. Both my led strips luckily were intact! But it resulted in a defect mosfet, SS210 diode, and R620 plus 1R00 components. And likely also the DF6113 is gone now! I examined the driver module circuit and noticed that it has NO OVP protection and neither a decent over-current protection because it is not equal to the original datasheet of the DF6113 that clearly shows these installed! I wouldn't buy this board or these led strips as REV:03. The video showed REV:02 with second e-cap installed!
Neat! -it's now 2024 and I stumbled on this vid looking for changing CFL to LED - I found a 12.1" 'picture frame' at a thrift store... after taking it apart, I determined the operating voltage, and plugged in an adapter with the right polarity... the screen is a TFT with a CFL backlight, that has no output voltage on the CFL converter. Using a flashlight I can see the screen is operating, so here I am looking at CFL to LED conversions... For test equipment, this is a great way to revive gear, for a display screen, I'm now curious what temperature LED is going to work if I replace the CFL tube... have fun being techs peeps!
I really like the short series also. So please continue with the mix of them. Excellent job at retrofitting the LED unit into the system in the time allowed for the short system. Also liked the "partner" in the beginning of the video. Well doon and thumbs up.
Hey, what kind of input does that brightness control need? I want to repair a 1993 Apple PowerBook with a dead ccfl tube and the sharp display looks similar to yours. I guess it's original brightness control is some kind of variable resistor, so maybe I could wire this up instead of the Potentiometer you used and keep the original brightness slider functional.
Definitely, if you want to use them at full power you need to provide some heatsink, otherwise they start blackening soon. I would not use it at more than half of the rated power. It was really a pleasant surprise to see that there were no "hot spots" of light due to LEDs, that is what always makes me afraid of doing this (unless alternative is no-light, of course) Thanks for the video!
Hello so after a long time I have seen the video and now I'm trying to make that one panel but after research I come to know my lcd display has cclf backlight and it has inverter so now how can I glow that beautiful lights any ideas i don't know how can I do with this.
And what about replacing the backlight with some reflective material so the LCD works with the ambient light. Like the Sun Vision Displays ... is that possible? using somekind of reflective sheet like Mylar or paint a sheet with "white 2.0" paint. (Also removing the top filter of the LCD.)
The Signal Path Blog, Where did you find the led kit? I looked on eBay and of course some are available, but not sure what ones can be cut like you did.
I didn't knew about your channel until i saw the recent talk of you with dave from eevblog, i am a long term viewer from his channel, i kind of like this short videos!, i'm gonna look one of your long ones, usually depends on what you wanna show, both are interesting! there are subjects that needs a lot of time, others like this one, not, nice instrument btw oh my god!
Why would you ever do that? CCFL if safer for your eyes. I would prefer the video other way arround. Is it possible to put CCFL instead of LED on modern monitors?
Lol. That’s like saying “I want to rip this modern fuel injection system off of my BMW and install a carburetor with loads of vacuum lines in its place.”
Hey, stupid question but I was wondering if the Mercury inside a tube could leak out of the monitor. My image has been flickering there's some ghosting issues. Btw could LCD fluid leak out of a monitor without visible damage?
That is exactly what I was thinking. I see that this post has is 6 yrs old but maybe someone will chime in on their thoughts. I bought the same kit and there are 25 'banks of 3' per strip. The board expects 2 strips to be in parallel and the constant current is set for about 1.2Amps. That works out to ~25mA @ 9V per bank. Cutting down one strip and only using one strip must be pushing all of those LEDs to close to death. You mentioned that you set the dim control but you didn't mention at what current you are running your cut down strip at.
@@johncarson2877 Funny to read this comment just this week. I must say I totally forgot I had ever watched this video. But coincidentally just this week I designed a little led strip to retrofit in the 5.7 inch Hitachi screens on a device of which we sold hundreds many years ago. Our customers want this devices repaired, but screens the are EOL. Replacing the CFL with 6 white LED turned out to be a very easy, cheap and effective repair. When testing we could not see the six light spots. I just used dropper resistors for current regulation. Cutting of LEDs from a current regulated strip still doesn't seem right to me, not something I would recommend.
YAY short videos. I like that very much! More shorties please!!! The common RUclipsrs attention span is not 1 hr long ;) Just kidding, but for a fact I have to watch the 1hr videos in several chunks, there rarely enough time to watch those from start to end. Sometimes you could even make "one-takers" with no editing at all.
Can I upgrade with HP DV 6700 laptop LCD screen to upgrade CCFL to LED I have HP DV 6700 series laptop LCD made by AIO brand very thin LCD 14.4 inch thickness of lcd is 5 mm ??
Hi sir.i have a 14" lcd screen. Is it possible to connect it by raspberry pi? Other wise give me a solution to convert it in to tv. Iam waiting for your reply
Please Please Can you give me the shematics?!?! Or otherwised the wire conections for the potenciometer?? Should be 5k or 10k potenciometer?? Please some help! Great video by the way!
Last time I had LCD monitor with CCFL backlight and every component was fine but by some reason CCFL driver was shutting down after 1second, adding 10pF/1kV capacitor in parallel with CCFL tube fixed it.
Hello there, I have a imac display lm215wf3-sla1 which has already LED backlight and I can't find any driver board or I should say inverter board , please help me out
You need to know the configuration of the LED board so you can determine the required voltage. You will then need an LED driver board with constant current capability to do the job.
+The Signal Path Blog Looks like the original display was a drop in CRT module, so it would have the contrast and brightness controls separate on the module. Would guess originally meant to use a Sony mini Trinitron display with a small curved bezel recessed in the front. Later changed to the colour LCD when Sony stopped making CRT displays at a low price point.
Yep, great to mix both short and long videos. Longer videos are not as likely to be watched and/or saved for later. It might take me a week to watch an hour long video in small sections ...
Hello Now you have this amazing network analyzer I was wondering if you could do a video on how to use such a amazing device, and perhaps how you read a smiths graph as I always struggle with those!
First time watching your channel. Very well done. Good video and sound, excellent tech work. I would have appreciated an expansion of explanation on the variable resistor, its values and wiring. Otherwise great, thanks
Since nobody reply me, i figure out how to make the connections without burn the board controller. This is for those who face the same problem in the future. VIN + EAN connected on +12v || DIM connected to the pin 2 of the potentiometer, pin 1 of the potentiometer to GND, pin 3 to 5VDC supply. I used a 5k POT.
Estaba en el mismo problema gracias 💪💪
Great! I vote for continuing with a mix of short and long videos, well done!
I just lucked onto your video here and am quite glad I did! This is a solution I've been seeking for another device I have. 4 years later !!!
I've always been interested, but have never actually sat down to watch one of your videos, as they've been too long. This new series is perfect!
I love the long format videos, but they do require an investment. Short videos to squeeze in wherever are also great!
Short, long or in between. All of your videos are fantastic. I will take whatever you have time for.
I loved your insight as to why CCFL tubes tend to blacken on the ends over time. Learned something new! Thank you for sharing!
Your videos are all excellent and, as a layman trying to educate myself, I think shorter, more digestible ones are a great idea. Please keep them coming!
I haven't been able to find any information about the boards and how exactly to connect the dimming. Does anyone have any information? Which pot to use and how it is meant to be connected?
Good choice for subject. There is quite a lot of test equipment needing display CCFL replaced. The short video format is a good idea but don't neglect the longer more in depth videos - you great job producing videos and spreading knowledge. Thanks
Nice upgrade to the instrument. I like the long videos but there is certainly room for the shorts too. so keep them coming
The "quickies" are definitely interesting as well and worth to be continued, as long as the explanations of your solutions are still understandable. I always enjoy your vids, no matter how long they are..
Of course we want you to do these shorts. And the longs, and the in-betweens. They all rock.
Thank you for the short episodes!!! I never have time to look at longer episodes so I simply discard them. So please keep it up with this format ! 10mn max is good ! :)
An Engineer that fixes things thats pretty cool. We hired some retired engineers to help out in our repair business, I found them fun to work with, they like to re-design things.
Definitely like both short and long videos :)
Never thought I'd see one of your videos clocking in at under half an hour. I like it :)
I like the new short video. Of course, your long videos are great, but sometimes I want to watch an entire video and don't have an hour. (Playback at 1.25x or 1.5x on a PC is also a great way to watch more videos in less time.)
That screen turned out very nicely, indeed! Thanks for sharing.
Of all the videos on youtube I look forward to yours the most, and these shorts would be a welcome addition. Thanks to you I'm contemplating switching from a digital to a more analog oriented EE degree ;)
I like the new format but don't stop doing the long ones. Thanks.
+The Signal Path Blog since it is a constant current driver, reducing the number of LEDs connected will cause the current through each LED to go way above the rated one, which would explain the significant blue shift of the light. I would increase the sense resistor by at least a factor of 4, and then use the dim input to fine tune.
every video that you publish is awesome
Great addition to your in-depth teardowns and reviews. Cheers, Mark
where do i get led strip and pcb board..any link for it..
Your long videos are great.
But, Short and sweet is good.
+TheProCactus I agree !
Increase spees
Please do more of these types of videos. I don't always have time to watch a 70 min RUclips video. Plus going over some of these basic things is also sometimes interesting.
Anything you want to share I want to watch! I really appreciate the follow up on this instrument.
Where did you but the LED kit from?
I like both the short format videos too. Please continue to make both.
I like the idea of adding occasional shorts. I'd say keep them coming.
Excellent! Please continue both styles of productions, they are both informative and very instructional! Thanks again for documenting your work for us!
Thx dude! I replaced the light and it only cost 12€... the company here wanted to do this repair for 500€ so I ordered the light from China ( eBay ).
It is very easy to check if the backlight is broken... just hold or press a flashlight on the screen. If you can see something, than just replace the light.
Did you use a potentiometer to drop the brightness? any tips for the rest of us? Are the yellow wires for brightness control and if so how do they work?
@@scottvance74 I just ordered an original backlight and installed it. So no wiring needed. You don’t even need an potentiometer.
If you want to replace it with a LED than I’d suggest just trying some resistors. So directly wiring it to the factory cables with nothing between it.
This should work right?
@@B58B30 The available parts I'm seeing have a series/parallel network and require about 8V to drive them. The inverters that do this are usually powered by a 12V source. My output (to drive the old CCFL) is 5V. I found that most of these have a diming function, so by either using that and/or changing the current sense resistor on the LED driving board, I think that I can solve the issue. Thanks for your feedback.
Nice video! What are the specs of the potentiometer you used and how did you connect it to the cables that come from the LED controller?
Great addition to your long videos. Like them both and really appreciate the time and effort that you put into them. I subscribe to a number of electronics related videos and I consistently get the most value out of yours.
Awesome! I have to say that I enjoy your long episodes and watch them start to finish. But I know short videos will allow you to record more stuff in the lab, and hopefully they will be less burdensome in prep and editing. Thumbs up to TSP Shorts!
Like any repair vid. I would watch short ones.
Link please to the source for that LED strip and driver?
Thank you for sharing this retrofit. I find these kind of videos are also very helpful, please keep sharing them any chance you get. Gracias!
Yes, short and long videos are great, as long as they are repairs.
Nice short video, like some sort of behind scenes of things you also do.
Would be nice if you add the source of the drive and strip.
Also how did you "glued" the strip to the panel? Nice to also know those details.
Thanks for the great video! I recently bought the same 27 inch led strips with that DF6113 driver and 15N10L mosfet but it never produced enough backlight light on a HP 25 inch TV. Which was because the strips had turned in their holders inside my TV. Which was fixed by gluing them to the white plastic top and bottom reflectors. The driver module board I received had no second e-cap and was REV:03. I wouldn't advice anyone to use this board above 12V because my board became very hot instantly and after 10 minutes or so it short circuited and got up in smoke. Both my led strips luckily were intact! But it resulted in a defect mosfet, SS210 diode, and R620 plus 1R00 components. And likely also the DF6113 is gone now! I examined the driver module circuit and noticed that it has NO OVP protection and neither a decent over-current protection because it is not equal to the original datasheet of the DF6113 that clearly shows these installed! I wouldn't buy this board or these led strips as REV:03. The video showed REV:02 with second e-cap installed!
Do you actually resell these units?
the number on that strip is gtd 325 315mm 15f 54led. Where are those found. I like that construction.
Neat! -it's now 2024 and I stumbled on this vid looking for changing CFL to LED - I found a 12.1" 'picture frame' at a thrift store... after taking it apart, I determined the operating voltage, and plugged in an adapter with the right polarity... the screen is a TFT with a CFL backlight, that has no output voltage on the CFL converter. Using a flashlight I can see the screen is operating, so here I am looking at CFL to LED conversions...
For test equipment, this is a great way to revive gear, for a display screen, I'm now curious what temperature LED is going to work if I replace the CFL tube... have fun being techs peeps!
How did you connect the potentiometerto the dim cable and what is the resistance of the potentiometer?
I really like the short series also. So please continue with the mix of them. Excellent job at retrofitting the LED unit into the system in the time allowed for the short system. Also liked the "partner" in the beginning of the video. Well doon and thumbs up.
Hey, what kind of input does that brightness control need? I want to repair a 1993 Apple PowerBook with a dead ccfl tube and the sharp display looks similar to yours. I guess it's original brightness control is some kind of variable resistor, so maybe I could wire this up instead of the Potentiometer you used and keep the original brightness slider functional.
Nice, short and sweet repair video. More like these would be very useful.
Definitely, if you want to use them at full power you need to provide some heatsink, otherwise they start blackening soon. I would not use it at more than half of the rated power.
It was really a pleasant surprise to see that there were no "hot spots" of light due to LEDs, that is what always makes me afraid of doing this (unless alternative is no-light, of course)
Thanks for the video!
I’m glad these come as a kit, I was worried I’d have to DIY the whole thing
Nicely done. Are you not concerned the buck converter (with no ground plane) will introduce noise into the instrument?
Very nice idea of also doing these short episodes. I like it. Keep'em coming.
Hello so after a long time I have seen the video and now I'm trying to make that one panel but after research I come to know my lcd display has cclf backlight and it has inverter so now how can I glow that beautiful lights any ideas i don't know how can I do with this.
Both short and long -- we can't get enough!!
your videos are amazing they are by far my favorite thing on youtube
And what about replacing the backlight with some reflective material so the LCD works with the ambient light. Like the Sun Vision Displays ... is that possible? using somekind of reflective sheet like Mylar or paint a sheet with "white 2.0" paint. (Also removing the top filter of the LCD.)
Great Job love the short videos. But don't stop the long ones.
The Signal Path Blog,
Where did you find the led kit? I looked on eBay and of course some are available, but not sure what ones can be cut like you did.
Maybe I didn't catch it but is the LED driver CC or PWM?
Your cat can speak now? That is good progress. Keep up training!
+Toni T800 Cat's have always been able to speak, that's how they are taking over the world.
Lee Harvey Oswald was given his orders by a cat.
I didn't knew about your channel until i saw the recent talk of you with dave from eevblog, i am a long term viewer from his channel, i kind of like this short videos!, i'm gonna look one of your long ones, usually depends on what you wanna show, both are interesting! there are subjects that needs a lot of time, others like this one, not, nice instrument btw oh my god!
Why would you ever do that? CCFL if safer for your eyes. I would prefer the video other way arround. Is it possible to put CCFL instead of LED on modern monitors?
Lol. That’s like saying “I want to rip this modern fuel injection system off of my BMW and install a carburetor with loads of vacuum lines in its place.”
Thanks, I hope you continue this segment of videos.
Hey, stupid question but I was wondering if the Mercury inside a tube could leak out of the monitor. My image has been flickering there's some ghosting issues. Btw could LCD fluid leak out of a monitor without visible damage?
hi, can you share the wiring connection, how the ena and dim is connected. thanks
Russell Chan I would also like to know that...
I liked this short video as much as I like the long ones. Thanks for interesting video!
At 3:58 you state that you need a constant current driver. But if it is, and you cut the strip to size wouldn't that overload the remaining LED's?
That is exactly what I was thinking. I see that this post has is 6 yrs old but maybe someone will chime in on their thoughts.
I bought the same kit and there are 25 'banks of 3' per strip. The board expects 2 strips to be in parallel and the constant current is set for about 1.2Amps. That works out to ~25mA @ 9V per bank. Cutting down one strip and only using one strip must be pushing all of those LEDs to close to death. You mentioned that you set the dim control but you didn't mention at what current you are running your cut down strip at.
@@johncarson2877 Funny to read this comment just this week. I must say I totally forgot I had ever watched this video. But coincidentally just this week I designed a little led strip to retrofit in the 5.7 inch Hitachi screens on a device of which we sold hundreds many years ago. Our customers want this devices repaired, but screens the are EOL. Replacing the CFL with 6 white LED turned out to be a very easy, cheap and effective repair. When testing we could not see the six light spots. I just used dropper resistors for current regulation.
Cutting of LEDs from a current regulated strip still doesn't seem right to me, not something I would recommend.
I love the long videos, I also love the short videos.
keep the shorts coming, all of your videos are informative. (Where are all the repair videos you promised).. Karl
YAY short videos. I like that very much! More shorties please!!! The common RUclipsrs attention span is not 1 hr long ;) Just kidding, but for a fact I have to watch the 1hr videos in several chunks, there rarely enough time to watch those from start to end. Sometimes you could even make "one-takers" with no editing at all.
Can I upgrade with HP DV 6700 laptop LCD screen to upgrade CCFL to LED I have HP DV 6700 series laptop LCD made by AIO brand very thin LCD 14.4 inch thickness of lcd is 5 mm ??
Great,but it would be better if you explain how to do the wiring to the driver, please.
Hi sir.i have a 14" lcd screen. Is it possible to connect it by raspberry pi? Other wise give me a solution to convert it in to tv. Iam waiting for your reply
Please Please Can you give me the shematics?!?! Or otherwised the wire conections for the potenciometer?? Should be 5k or 10k potenciometer?? Please some help! Great video by the way!
Is this programmable
Shahriar, Another great video. Thank you for sharing your brilliant mind with all of us.
Nice video, hope you decide to do more.
That was awesome workaround!
Last time I had LCD monitor with CCFL backlight and every component was fine but by some reason CCFL driver was shutting down after 1second, adding 10pF/1kV capacitor in parallel with CCFL tube fixed it.
Keep the short videos coming!
Hello, Where can I buy the driver shown in the video?.
EBay. There are kits you can get.
You didn’t even need the hammer! I liked it. I also like the 1.5 hour epics.
Great project. I loved it. That was a very practical project that any of us can do. Thank you again for all your great content and hard work.
Hello there, I have a imac display lm215wf3-sla1 which has already LED backlight and I can't find any driver board or I should say inverter board , please help me out
You need to know the configuration of the LED board so you can determine the required voltage. You will then need an LED driver board with constant current capability to do the job.
Great video. I like both short, long, and anywhere in between. Thanks
Good video, I think the short format works well.
This is very good explanation!
Nice retrofit repair. I enjoy all your videos.
Could you do a video on APC UPS repair and circuit analysis?
great video, display looks almost new
Great retrofit!
Did the instrument have an option to control the brightness of the old display?
If so, why didn't you incorporate that somehow?
+Mark19960 No, sadly it did not. I looked everywhere in the menus and could not find it.
+The Signal Path Blog I figured it did not since you are so thorough and if it did that you would probably try to use it somehow. Oh well.
+The Signal Path Blog Looks like the original display was a drop in CRT module, so it would have the contrast and brightness controls separate on the module. Would guess originally meant to use a Sony mini Trinitron display with a small curved bezel recessed in the front. Later changed to the colour LCD when Sony stopped making CRT displays at a low price point.
short is good, upto about 30 min is a nice time limit,
Yep, great to mix both short and long videos. Longer videos are not as likely to be watched and/or saved for later. It might take me a week to watch an hour long video in small sections ...
Hello Now you have this amazing network analyzer I was wondering if you could do a video on how to use such a amazing device, and perhaps how you read a smiths graph as I always struggle with those!
First time watching your channel. Very well done. Good video and sound, excellent tech work. I would have appreciated an expansion of explanation on the variable resistor, its values and wiring. Otherwise great, thanks
How about CRT to LCD conversion :-)!
Hi very nice video i'm wondering if it would be possible to send me the wiring diagram to hook up the dimming potentionmeter
Hi, did you get an answer about the wiring? I would also be interested in that, also the value of the potentiometer.
Have an old asus tft. Pretty sure it has CCFLs and one of them is dying. I'll make an attempt to replace it with LEDs, maybe.
i did quite like the format ... i really like the long videos but without you trying to stretch 500 words into a 1000 essay i quite like it
Very nice video format, thank you!
Nice. The short vidyeos are a nice change.
I really like this type of video and your others.
That was very informative.