Those times when companies not only weren't afraid of people maintaining and fixing their equipment but encouraging them to do so. Now they not only deny all this valuable documentation but encourage people to just discard and buy new, even when whatever is not working is easily fixable. That's why you gotta love this old equipment.
Fantastic video Squatch Sr. It's awesome watching the older generation work there magic on this stuff. My grandfather is 82 and still works as a small engine mechanic running his business. The man forgot more than I'll ever learn. But watching him with all his tricks is incredible. Cheers guy's
Your dad is awesome! I rebuild outboard engines and encounter froze bolts and screws often, crc makes a penetrating spray called freeze off that i wouldnt be without, very useful in stainless to aluminum corrosion.
Really good information on that video ty Senior 👌 have a couple of mags not playing ball just now and watching this just given me the kick in the ass get them stripped down an checked out 🙄😀👍👍
Thank you senior, this has been a joy to watch. You sir are a real magician, you make every thing look so easy. Looking forward to the rebuild. Take care, Cheers from Australia.
Great video and brought back memories. I restored four stationary engines back in the 80's. Here in the UK magneto stuff and restoration is quite expensive but I always changed the coil for a modern one encased in epoxy resin and also got the magnet re magnetised. I think the old shellac on the old coils can start to break down. After replacing any dodgy bearings and the condenser it was satisfying to see a nice hot blue spark. Also this led to easy starting of the engine and the plug(s) not fouling up.
Another absolutely fascinating episode of a component on 1113. How it was cleaned and how it works and how to test that mag. It's actually pretty much how we did mags on Pratt and Whitney R1820 radial aircraft engines on Coast Guard Grumman HU16e Albatross seaplanes. Even on one's coming fresh outta ARSAC refurbishment at Elizabeth City North Carolina. We'd definitely check those out if they came from original Navy surplus OEM stock still in their original packaging. Those were always marked with 40's or 50's build dates. Sometimes the bakalight plastic bodies would be cracked from having been mishandled over the decades. That was in the mid 70's up at Coast Guard Airstation Traverse City Michigan the first year and a half I was stationed there. We had parts on the shelves for aircraft types long gone for Coast Guard. All Grumman seaplane models inventory.
For those frozen screws I have used a hand held induction coil to heat them it only heats the screw not the housing ....It is incredible to see this stuff being saved Thank you for you expertise I have learned so much
I used to rebuild a lot of starter motors at work and used brake cleaner to clean the field windings. It wasn't a good idea because it was washing the vanish off of the field coils. You didn't spray brake cleaner inside the mag so it wasn't a issue. Really enjoyed the video!
@@weirddeere Err. Different decades,the varnish varies. Varsol/solvent is usually safe,but with any solvent,check with a test patch. Wet and wipe first,if any comes off,move to a plan B. And always a careful look for deterioration, heat damage,age damage on individual wires. A motor winder is someone to go to with problems if necessary.
@@paulmanson253 Thanks. The stuff I play with isn't usually rare, just old, and if smells burnt I'm usually shopping around for another one. But I do like to play and see if I can fix relatively simple problems!
@@paulmanson253 These starters were on 1980 Chevy Step-vans with 350ci. I talked with a local motor rebuilder at the time and they said stick with the electrical cleaner but test first just like you said. I couldn't buy a decent re-man at that time.
Really love the older machines for their durability and being overbuilt compared to new stuff! As for the broken of screw, my favourite method is to weld a nut on it and let it cool, sometimes they come out super easy other times they snap off flush so you are drilling……
@@squatch253 do you know where I can get a new coil for my Eisemann RC-2H? Finally managed to get out to the site of my free D4 and pulled the mag, the coil is covered in black goo . I assume it is from inside the coil (possibly PCB?) THANKS!
Good to see you, senior! Yeah- 7:09 big old scar on the web of my left thumb where a screwdriver punctured through it many years ago! Pulling it out was no fun either! Take care, you and all from the UK
Thanks for sharing the challenge of the frozen screw. Educational to see how you deal with it. Great to see the inside of the mag, but hope I never have to get into it myself. Afraid I would get lost. Great session.
Really nice when you have the knowledge and books manuals to rebuild those yourself. I had a Wico C I sent to Rebuilt Mags in Minnesota for refurbishment. They did an excellent job. A bit costly but when you can't do it yourself sometimes you need help. I think now I could do one as I have done a lot of research on them since. The Eismann is a bit more involved but I think mags basically all work in a similar manner.
Hey Squatch, I have been watching this series since nearly the beginning, it's been great, I love the attention to detail. I really meant to say this sooner and maybe I missed it, but please for goodness sake, Bypass the oil cooler. I have seen several engines ruined by oil coolers that were thought to be good and I would hate to see that happen to you after all this effort. Also, by the way, and I'm sure there are many opinions on this, but try switching from the "Red" CRC brake clean to the green, it doesn't have chlorine in it and is a lot less toxic, I used the red for may years and will never go back, anyways, thanks for the great content and keep up the great work.
I thought I was the only one to dress off and finish screwdriver tips. Try a stone with wd-40 then finish with 400-600 wet/dry with wd-40. It does make a huge difference if the tip fits nice. Great video!!
I make my own screwdrivers too. I actually have sets for specific stuff, even a couple for a specific part where i've managed to find the exact screwdriver that will fit the old brass screws just right. Old ones are the best, but new ones can also be good when chosen with a task in mind. And giving them a proper profile is always a good idea because you know then, what their worth is. Junk ones are immediately exposed when a profile is given.
Your edge gap check is also known as internal timing. It sets point opening to maximum magnetic flux for best spark intensity. We set aircraft mags. Internal timing must be set first before mag to engine.
The white deposit on the coil looks to me to either be mold, or possibly residue leaching out of the tar covering, after someone used a solvent like gas, paint thinner, or acetone on it in the past. Given the similar white dust on the top surface of the phenolic gear and the signs of rust and condensation, my best guess is that it is mold.
induced current through a coil inside a permanent magnet to deliver a spark. It’s lovely engineering and it’s interesting to note how it’s almost under-engineered (that Bakelite looking gear at 21:50) when compared to the really strong build on the tractor itself.
@The Sci-Fi Guy I believe that the gear is made of phenolic material, it was used in lots of electric devices of the time. I'm fairly certain it's also stronger than bake lite.
@@jamesthompson8008 if it’s phenolic, yes, it will enjoy better mechanical properties than Bakelite: my cars carb sits on a phenolic spacer. I’m inclined to think it’s more likely to be Bakelite, just like the rotor arm.
@@squatch253 that gear-chain is subject to significant peaks and troughs of torque as the the camshaft actuates. I would not have thought an early polymer like Formica would t have the mechanical properties to function in this capacity. Again, the guys at Cat knew best!
@@squatch253 Now that REALLY surprised me, I thought impulses were basically standard in mags....but I all I know about them is they work by magic haha
@@squatch253 my grandpa would hand crank his old Allis Chalmers tractor. He said as long as he heard the impulse clicking in the mag he never worried about it kicking back on him. A couple quarter turns of the engine with choke, take the choke off and a couple more turns and it was running. Hand wheel brakes.
Always great videos from the both of you! The anti right to repair people would probably declare a book ban on these manuals. Those are treasure troves of information.
I am trying to get a D4 out of the bush, it’s a 1951, and the pony has too weak of a spark ( none), but I held the ignition wire and there is a small zap present. I know the owner ( now deceased) hated the dozer because he always had problems with the pony. It is about 2 hours drive into the bush and that’s from the closest town that has no heavy vehicle support. Wondering if you can offer any advice on how to move forward? Should I buy a replacement mag and just swap it out? If so, are all the mags the same for the pony motor? Thanks a lot, Cam
Is this only my experience, or do faulty coils work best with worn spark plugs? It was in morn modern distributor, but two times coil with cracks failed on me right after changing of spark plugs
@@squatch253 Thank you Toby for taking the time to clear it up. I'm sure you have mentioned that in some other video before. I'm more familiar with Bosch magnetos so the name Eisemann stands really out just because lot of people have not heard about it.
That look like. A very great mag possibly was a replacement mag you could " get replacement mags with same numbers and correctness i gotten a brand new mag from dana in California all numbers match , as for the route taken was because mag was taken from the pony on my d8 how ever for the carb i brass welded with number 16 brass a chunk out of tje bowl and a chunk out of the upper opposite corn i will share them pictures soon as i can figure out how to youtube my slide show. Caterpillar made there own mags also out sourced to esimen and fairbanks a cat mag was a good mag also
I’m almost certain, that once this mag is rebuilt we will all be begging for the first start. However the fuel filter tower is still missing the pressure gauge. Can’t start the 3400 until the fuel gauge is pegged out!
The amount of machine work to build that mag is amazing considering it was all done by a person. The late 40’s to the 50’s was the end of built to be rebuilt society, to bad.
That Eisemann manual is an extremely important source material, may I ask how hard was that to come by - or is it another case of been there since you remember?
@@squatch253 As any of us who work on these things knows, that book is probably worth more than its weight in gold then. I'm certain you guys haven't just used for Cat equipment either - that was a huge score even if not used often. Thanks for doing this series of vids, they're equal to the carb series!
@@squatch253 As any of us who work on these things knows, that book is probably worth more than its weight in gold then. I'm certain you guys haven't just used for Cat equipment either - that was a huge score even if not used often. Thanks for doing this series of vids, they're equal to the carb series!
I need to talk to you!! I have a d7 3t with a Bosch Mag and it sparks fine but something is wrong with the timing I tried the way the books says to time it. Then I tried every possible position that it could go in I have worked on old cats a lot! But this one has got me Maybe the mag is off timing On the inside?
E-Gap is the point at which the magnetic field is changing the fastest. As the rotor turns, the magnetic field slowly builds, reaches its peak, and then rapidly swaps polarity. Rate of change is what induces current flow. It’s the point in the cycle that generates the most energy.
Those times when companies not only weren't afraid of people maintaining and fixing their equipment but encouraging them to do so. Now they not only deny all this valuable documentation but encourage people to just discard and buy new, even when whatever is not working is easily fixable. That's why you gotta love this old equipment.
Senior's tutorials are easy to understand and follow.
East central illinois here. Thanks for your time. Retired carpenter. Stopped at 70. 72 now keeping our little farm up now.
Great tutorial. The knowledge y'all are passing along is invaluable.
Fantastic video Squatch Sr. It's awesome watching the older generation work there magic on this stuff. My grandfather is 82 and still works as a small engine mechanic running his business. The man forgot more than I'll ever learn. But watching him with all his tricks is incredible. Cheers guy's
Great video of an Eismann! Love the little nuances line the pins to help keep the bearings from turning!
Your dad is awesome! I rebuild outboard engines and encounter froze bolts and screws often, crc makes a penetrating spray called freeze off that i wouldnt be without, very useful in stainless to aluminum corrosion.
Easy to see where Squatch gets his attention to detail. Amazing how "heavy duty" everything was built back then!
Really good information on that video ty Senior 👌 have a couple of mags not playing ball just now and watching this just given me the kick in the ass get them stripped down an checked out 🙄😀👍👍
Thank you senior, this has been a joy to watch. You sir are a real magician, you make every thing look so easy. Looking forward to the rebuild. Take care, Cheers from Australia.
Lots of complexity that is not evident at first glance. Thank you !!
Great video and brought back memories. I restored four stationary engines back in the 80's. Here in the UK magneto stuff and restoration is quite expensive but I always changed the coil for a modern one encased in epoxy resin and also got the magnet re magnetised. I think the old shellac on the old coils can start to break down. After replacing any dodgy bearings and the condenser it was satisfying to see a nice hot blue spark. Also this led to easy starting of the engine and the plug(s) not fouling up.
Another absolutely fascinating episode of a component on 1113.
How it was cleaned and how it works and how to test that mag.
It's actually pretty much how we did mags on Pratt and Whitney R1820 radial aircraft engines on Coast Guard Grumman HU16e Albatross seaplanes.
Even on one's coming fresh outta ARSAC refurbishment at Elizabeth City North Carolina.
We'd definitely check those out if they came from original Navy surplus OEM stock still in their original packaging.
Those were always marked with 40's or 50's build dates.
Sometimes the bakalight plastic bodies would be cracked from having been mishandled over the decades.
That was in the mid 70's up at Coast Guard Airstation Traverse City Michigan the first year and a half I was stationed there.
We had parts on the shelves for aircraft types long gone for Coast Guard.
All Grumman seaplane models inventory.
Great work, thanks for sharing Father 👍
For those frozen screws I have used a hand held induction coil to heat them it only heats the screw not the housing ....It is incredible to see this stuff being saved Thank you for you expertise I have learned so much
I used to rebuild a lot of starter motors at work and used brake cleaner to clean the field windings. It wasn't a good idea because it was washing the vanish off of the field coils. You didn't spray brake cleaner inside the mag so it wasn't a issue. Really enjoyed the video!
I will do my best to remember that, I can see me doing that. Electrical contact cleaner ONLY! Thanks!
@@weirddeere Err. Different decades,the varnish varies. Varsol/solvent is usually safe,but with any solvent,check with a test patch. Wet and wipe first,if any comes off,move to a plan B. And always a careful look for deterioration, heat damage,age damage on individual wires. A motor winder is someone to go to with problems if necessary.
@@paulmanson253 Thanks. The stuff I play with isn't usually rare, just old, and if smells burnt I'm usually shopping around for another one. But I do like to play and see if I can fix relatively simple problems!
@@paulmanson253 These starters were on 1980 Chevy Step-vans with 350ci. I talked with a local motor rebuilder at the time and they said stick with the electrical cleaner but test first just like you said. I couldn't buy a decent re-man at that time.
yes only one broken screw is not bad. I sure did miss a lot in the tear down, I will have to watch it a few more times. at work.
I have no luck in obtaining parts for Eismann mags in British Columbia. Do you have a source or rely on scavenged parts etc?
Really love the older machines for their durability and being overbuilt compared to new stuff!
As for the broken of screw, my favourite method is to weld a nut on it and let it cool, sometimes they come out super easy other times they snap off flush so you are drilling……
@@squatch253 do you know where I can get a new coil for my Eisemann RC-2H? Finally managed to get out to the site of my free D4 and pulled the mag, the coil is covered in black goo . I assume it is from inside the coil (possibly PCB?)
THANKS!
I have never messed with a magneto. This is amazing information. thank you!
Sr. your knowledge is invaluable. I have learned so much watching your preparation and attention to every detail..
use hollow ground screwdrivers, like gunsmiths do. They are great!
Good to see you, senior! Yeah- 7:09 big old scar on the web of my left thumb where a screwdriver punctured through it many years ago! Pulling it out was no fun either! Take care, you and all from the UK
Thanks for sharing the challenge of the frozen screw. Educational to see how you deal with it. Great to see the inside of the mag, but hope I never have to get into it myself. Afraid I would get lost. Great session.
Really nice when you have the knowledge and books manuals to rebuild those yourself. I had a Wico C I sent to Rebuilt Mags in Minnesota for refurbishment. They did an excellent job. A bit costly but when you can't do it yourself sometimes you need help. I think now I could do one as I have done a lot of research on them since. The Eismann is a bit more involved but I think mags basically all work in a similar manner.
Hey Squatch, I have been watching this series since nearly the beginning, it's been great, I love the attention to detail. I really meant to say this sooner and maybe I missed it, but please for goodness sake, Bypass the oil cooler. I have seen several engines ruined by oil coolers that were thought to be good and I would hate to see that happen to you after all this effort. Also, by the way, and I'm sure there are many opinions on this, but try switching from the "Red" CRC brake clean to the green, it doesn't have chlorine in it and is a lot less toxic, I used the red for may years and will never go back, anyways, thanks for the great content and keep up the great work.
Very cool. I would love to see Louis Rossman comment on these videos and how right to repair used to be the way.
Excellent video it's nice how you tear down the magneto
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I thought I was the only one to dress off and finish screwdriver tips. Try a stone with wd-40 then finish with 400-600 wet/dry with wd-40. It does make a huge difference if the tip fits nice. Great video!!
Great little video thanks ! I gotta re watch it to understand some of those measurements !
You make it look easy senior thanks for sharing
I make my own screwdrivers too. I actually have sets for specific stuff, even a couple for a specific part where i've managed to find the exact screwdriver that will fit the old brass screws just right. Old ones are the best, but new ones can also be good when chosen with a task in mind. And giving them a proper profile is always a good idea because you know then, what their worth is. Junk ones are immediately exposed when a profile is given.
Your edge gap check is also known as internal timing. It sets point opening to maximum magnetic flux for best spark intensity. We set aircraft mags. Internal timing must be set first before mag to engine.
At 17:12 a living thing was on the lens is still in the shop? LOL I live in the same County as Florin Tractor. Farm life never ends.
Very informative, great job! 👍
Uh oh Sr. You cleaned all that old black off the magneto cover lol. Squatch is gonna have some twitching I’m sure lol. Fantastic tutorial!
👍up senior i love your segment's. We all can see where junior gets his skill. Apple don't fall far from the tree
Good video Senior!!
No matter how well you grind a tapered screwdriver, it will never fit as well as a hollow ground one. Brownells sell great sets of tips.
We do this on piston aircraft engines all the time. Nearly the same magnetos are made today for aircraft engines.
Go Sr. ! Thank you for the tutorial. 👍🏻👀🎥🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍🏻😎
Most interesting,I know what a mag is and how it works first time I've saw one torn down.
Thank you.... You know how I would have done it is took the mag apart and totally messed it up.... LOL
Very nice Guys. Spot on.....
Thanks Sr. !!!!!
Very good job 👍 👍 👍
Nice information 👍👍🌎🌞
I wish this was available like 10 yrs ago lol but I didn't have internet then eighter so yea. Me n pops back in the day had a d 9 .
The white deposit on the coil looks to me to either be mold, or possibly residue leaching out of the tar covering, after someone used a solvent like gas, paint thinner, or acetone on it in the past. Given the similar white dust on the top surface of the phenolic gear and the signs of rust and condensation, my best guess is that it is mold.
induced current through a coil inside a permanent magnet to deliver a spark.
It’s lovely engineering and it’s interesting to note how it’s almost under-engineered (that Bakelite looking gear at 21:50) when compared to the really strong build on the tractor itself.
@The Sci-Fi Guy I believe that the gear is made of phenolic material, it was used in lots of electric devices of the time. I'm fairly certain it's also stronger than bake lite.
@@jamesthompson8008 yep, that's definitely a phenolic gear.
@@jamesthompson8008 if it’s phenolic, yes, it will enjoy better mechanical properties than Bakelite: my cars carb sits on a phenolic spacer. I’m inclined to think it’s more likely to be Bakelite, just like the rotor arm.
@@squatch253 that gear-chain is subject to significant peaks and troughs of torque as the the camshaft actuates. I would not have thought an early polymer like Formica would t have the mechanical properties to function in this capacity. Again, the guys at Cat knew best!
Is there an impulse device in this mag. It doesn't look like it, or sound like it, unless I missed it. Thanks for sharing.
@@squatch253 Now that REALLY surprised me, I thought impulses were basically standard in mags....but I all I know about them is they work by magic haha
@@squatch253 my grandpa would hand crank his old Allis Chalmers tractor. He said as long as he heard the impulse clicking in the mag he never worried about it kicking back on him. A couple quarter turns of the engine with choke, take the choke off and a couple more turns and it was running. Hand wheel brakes.
Always great videos from the both of you! The anti right to repair people would probably declare a book ban on these manuals. Those are treasure troves of information.
I am trying to get a D4 out of the bush, it’s a 1951, and the pony has too weak of a spark ( none), but I held the ignition wire and there is a small zap present. I know the owner ( now deceased) hated the dozer because he always had problems with the pony. It is about 2 hours drive into the bush and that’s from the closest town that has no heavy vehicle support. Wondering if you can offer any advice on how to move forward? Should I buy a replacement mag and just swap it out? If so, are all the mags the same for the pony motor?
Thanks a lot,
Cam
good video
Is this only my experience, or do faulty coils work best with worn spark plugs? It was in morn modern distributor, but two times coil with cracks failed on me right after changing of spark plugs
On small parts, I mount it vertically, then hold an ice cube against the bolt, it won't expand as much as the case.
Doesn't always work...
Squatch Senior where is it possible to get parts for such old magnetos
The last bearing removed has a notch in it? Thanks.
Dad's great!
I would love to see the re-magnetization process. Also did all the CAT D2 come with Eismann magnetos only?
@@squatch253 Thank you Toby for taking the time to clear it up. I'm sure you have mentioned that in some other video before. I'm more familiar with Bosch magnetos so the name Eisemann stands really out just because lot of people have not heard about it.
That look like. A very great mag possibly was a replacement mag you could " get replacement mags with same numbers and correctness i gotten a brand new mag from dana in California all numbers match , as for the route taken was because mag was taken from the pony on my d8 how ever for the carb i brass welded with number 16 brass a chunk out of tje bowl and a chunk out of the upper opposite corn i will share them pictures soon as i can figure out how to youtube my slide show. Caterpillar made there own mags also out sourced to esimen and fairbanks a cat mag was a good mag also
I’m almost certain, that once this mag is rebuilt we will all be begging for the first start. However the fuel filter tower is still missing the pressure gauge. Can’t start the 3400 until the fuel gauge is pegged out!
@@squatch253 well I look forward to that.
The amount of machine work to build that mag is amazing considering it was all done by a person. The late 40’s to the 50’s was the end of built to be rebuilt society, to bad.
Senior Rocks
Hi Sr! 👋
That Eisemann manual is an extremely important source material, may I ask how hard was that to come by - or is it another case of been there since you remember?
@@squatch253 As any of us who work on these things knows, that book is probably worth more than its weight in gold then. I'm certain you guys haven't just used for Cat equipment either - that was a huge score even if not used often. Thanks for doing this series of vids, they're equal to the carb series!
@@squatch253 As any of us who work on these things knows, that book is probably worth more than its weight in gold then. I'm certain you guys haven't just used for Cat equipment either - that was a huge score even if not used often. Thanks for doing this series of vids, they're equal to the carb series!
I need to talk to you!! I have a d7 3t with a Bosch Mag and it sparks fine but something is wrong with the timing I tried the way the books says to time it. Then I tried every possible position that it could go in I have worked on old cats a lot! But this one has got me Maybe the mag is off timing On the inside?
tight screws, Kroil will help.
You guys can fix anything. What kind of job did Squach senior have? Was he a mechanic too?
Squatch
Any possibility of getting a parts list attached to this video?
By "Edge Gap", does that mean like Dwell in the automotive world?
The dwell is important to mags. Basically the time points are closed to create proper current
E-Gap is the point at which the magnetic field is changing the fastest. As the rotor turns, the magnetic field slowly builds, reaches its peak, and then rapidly swaps polarity. Rate of change is what induces current flow. It’s the point in the cycle that generates the most energy.
I have Eiseman Mag I. Good shape... missing rotor and cap.... interested in it for parts??
I'm thinking they used that style mag on 2 cylinder Wisconsin engines ?
For sure I had one in this century. I won't bore anyone with trading tales.
Can’t really see anything you’re pointing at re edge gap
how much literature do you have?
wow...your place should be protected as a historical site due to all that early info.