Hi from Ontario (Canada). Many years ago I worked on a system for magnetizing the magnets for high end audio loudspeakers. The machine had banks of large capacitors joined in series-parallel capable of charging to 1200 Volts and delivering a 1000 amp pulse through magnetizing coils placed around the magnet cores. The cables to the coils were about 25mm in diameter and jumped like angry snakes when the capacitor banks were discharged. People with pacemakers were not allowed near it when in operation. The stray EMP would destroy watches, computer drives and magnetic credit/bank cards.
Gentleman, your toy is impressive, I was born and raised in the gasoline and diesel industry, but I have never seen one of your engines before, which I love to see at my 71 years of age, most kind of you for sharing this outstanding engine and technical information with us, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
I think even Michael Faraday would be proud of that magnetic monster! Have you seen his original electromagnet at the Royal Institution? I've seen magnetos where people have stuck neodymium magnets onto the poles in an effort to boost the magnetic field. Now, when I was still in school, which is a long time ago, we were taught to place a keeper across the ends of the poles. The purpose of which is to complete the magnetic circuit, which in turn would preserve the magnetic field density - a couple of large bolts, or a piece of steel bar would suffice. Once replaced into the magneto, the pole pieces and the rotor were sufficient to maintain the circuit. The rule of thumb was never to leave magnets without a keeper in place.
@@clarencegreen3071 the idea I believe is the pull on the ions or electrons (pardon the rudimentary struggle?) Causes flow. The ions can begin to flow changing the position of same leaving the strength of the magnetic pull in the other piece it's stuck to. The magnetism is not affected this way by aluminium and is isolated from losing its charge in the magneto.. oR something like that?
My uncle had a couple of those engines. I was probably 10 years old and we mounted one on a drag with a saw rig to cut fire wood . His always started and ran good. Uncle Odd was a wizard with engines. I miss him dearly.
You have shown a hole lot of people how to build a very inexpensive magneto changer.l love your Chanel and wish that you made more videos. Keep up the amazing work.
Hi! Thank you. Yes i hope that my videos can help other collectors and hobby workers out there to keep the steam up in their old engines. I will try to make more. Time is hard to come by these days. Take care! /Richard
Thanks for demonstrating this process. It is what I consider to be a good solution to a problem: simple yet very effective. At any rate, It reminds me of when I used to work for a company that used a lot of magnets in their products. The "magnets" arrived from the manufacturer in the unmagnetized state (I don't know what you call a magnet before it has been magnetized, I suppose there is a word for that.). The reason they came this way is that unmagnetized magnets are much easier and safer to handle and can be more easily machined if necessary. So, we had a device called a "magnet charger" which was used to magnetize the unmagnetized magnets. You put the unmagnetized magnet in the machine, pushed the button, something inside the machine went "click", and instantly the magnet became a full fledged, fully magnetized magnet. Just like that. I always thought it was kind of magical.
Amazing, Richard. Outstanding old-school knowledge for an interested, pleasant young man who is ready to share it with others. And now, pleeeease, show us how to re-magnetize a magnet-flywheel from an old motorcycle or stationary engine. I am going to travel to Sweden this summer. Hope to meet you there. Hälsningar från Tyskland.
Nicely done. Since you are using an old and powerless battery the current through the magnet is mainly determined by the current source capability of the battery, not the wire resistance. Given the spark on your switch when you disconnect the current, the current is really low. You are using thick and heavy wire but you have plenty of space around your cores. You if you would double the number of windings, the current would remain more or less the same, but the magnetic field would almost double as well. If it also makes your magneto magnet stronger is determined whether the cores of your magnet become saturated, and when the magnet itself is saturated. Measuring the saturation of your magnet could be done by measuring the field and note when it does not increase anymore when the current or winding count increase. If that would be of interest at all. In any case, saturation of the cores do not harm the functionality or the quality of the field.
The old machines had a sense of purpose without some difficulty we get now. Hearing that slow sure idle was a treat.i completely enjoyed this video. Top jobsir.
Thanks! I broke my mic, and bought a new one just like my old one. But the new one doesn't like loud engine sound.. But yes it is a treat to just sit and listen to a engine like this. /Richard
I too have had engines that I have turned over more times by hand than it has turned when running! This might well be worth a try, and I have the scrap laying around to build one, Thanks!! Number of turns of wire(about)? Gage of wire used? Approx diameter of rods?
Actually it is better to shorten the magnet poles by means of a steel bar. You recommend to keep it far from steel (15:00). But the contrary is true. Magnets loose their force when a reverse magnetic field is working onto the poles. By putting a steel bar over the magnet poles, the magnetic circuit is closed again an less susceptible to external magnetic fields. Even if you put the magnet on a steel table, the table acts as a shorting bar. An almost infinitely large bar, but it still closes the magnetic circuit.
That’s why , many years ago, if we went to the shop to buy a horse shoe magnet, it was always supplied with a ‘ keeper’. A piece of steel across the poles., to prevent the magnet being demagnetised.
I’m boutta spend hours watching your videos😂 I love older stuff like my 1977 ke125, it’s the same year my dad was born. So to me you’re videos are beyond amazing! and I hope to influence others just like this one day.😁
Good morning I just watched your video on your tractors feel pumped it broke down I'm a 65 year old man from Wisconsin I live in a mobile home park and the people here already think I'm crazy I need a tractor like that But I don't really need one but I sure do want 1 Thanks for your videos they're very entertaining
This is a brilliant video. I have many pieces of equipment that I have sold because I could not get the Magneto to work. If I had realized it was possible to repair the magnets I would have done so long ago. Thank you so much for sharing this
Hi, thank you for being nice to me! Hope i didn't run you off and discourage you from making new videos. Im sorry for my stupid texts. Don't pay my stupid texted any attention and keep making awesome viddos! You my favorite person on youtube and watching your videos makes me happy! Burton
What a great informative film thankyou. I have a ransomes mg6 crawler which i could never get started until i closed the plug gap right up and now i know why. Many thanks from Australia.
I am 85 years old and still I learn something new by watching your video. Over 50 years ago I had gaff rigged 26 foot Huon Pine boat with a big heavy single cylinder Simplex 5 HP petrol marine engine, started by grasping the big cast iron flywheel with both hands and pulling the engine over. It was always hard to start until I replaced the old mag with a new one, it made such a difference, now I know why. What is the purpose of tapping the magnet during the magnetising phase? Greetings from Tasmania Australia. 👍😁🇦🇺🦘
Hi and thanks for that,could you please draw a basic wiring diagram,including which way around you wind each coil and hoe each end is connected to what…thanks.
Well Done. It is amazing how much you increased the magnetic force of the magnet by remagnetizing it. I believe tapping the magnet with the brass “hammer” assists the repositioning of the field/pole molecules in the magnet. Thanks for another interesting and informative vlog.
Richard, I really enjoy the videos. I have a magnetizer built by Allen and it has several steel blocks with different angles that lay on top of the magnet charger poles for charging round magnets in flywheels and armature magnets. Keep up the good work!
The thicker top steel pieces might not be creating the effect you intend. It will result in a weaker but more even (parallel) magnetic field than a thin piece. Consider tapering one end of the pieces so that you can rotate them to create a more concentrated field when needed. Also consider slotting the top piece mounting hole to minimize the air gap.
Also, the magnetic circuit is much longer than it needs to be. The side pieces could be shortened significantly, and the bottom also, to make it less wide. Make the coils (and the entire unit) as compact as possible while keeping the same number of turns.
Try heating it with a blowtorch just before or while tapping it. It will significantly increase how much magnetism it take and how long it will hold it for in the future. Do not cool it rapidly in water though. Cheer and thanks for the video.
Great little video, Richard. Loved the DYI magnetizer and the explanation. Looks like it was a bit cold inside the workshop. All the best to you. Cheers.
New subscriber and I am starting a welding , fabrication, foundry and light machine shop specializing in pre-war British race cars. I will be rebuilding and repairing magnetos as well. Thanks for the video.
Add a diode across each coil, to avoid sparking at the switch so much. The collapsing field is making a voltage spike, a backward diode will short out the back EMF, problem solved.
If you hook up your magnetizer to low voltage high current AC (from an AC buzz box welder, perhaps, if you have one) it becomes a *demagnetizer.* The alternating field will leave almost no residual field in, say, a screwdriver that you need to use with small parts or a pair of pliers that you need to actually *drop* that spring ring when you release your grip.
Reminds me of an old, slightly unsafe trick to get more powerful magnetisation that acts really quickly so you don't need to spend time tapping on it etc. Instead of that springy switch you made, wire in a piece of aluminium foil maybe half an inch wide and a couple inches long. And instead of the 12V battery, a standard plug for 240V AC. When you plug it in, the alu foil acts as a fuse and burns away almost instantly. What makes this work is that the foil will never break while the AC sine wave is passing through zero volts heading towards the opposite polarity, it always fails near the top (or bottom, opposite polarity) of the alternating sine wave where the voltage is highest. So instead of a mere 12V through the coils, for 1/50th of a second you have 240V or thereabouts and then the alu foil burns away to break the circuit. It never gets around to alternating to the opposite polarity because the circuit is broken by then. And the coils never overheat despite the high current, because they're only energized for a brief moment. The downside, of course, is you get random polarity with a 50/50 chance of your magnet being the wrong way around. A sufficiently powerful diode could fix that, I guess. Now obviously this trick predates OHSA by several decades; don't actually try this if you don't want to risk electric arcs burning things and splattering melted aluminium everywhere.
I have a 1916 Galloway 4hp that my dad bought in 1970 mag disappeared found one in Iowa the guy remagnetised it before shipping starts great no spark plug going to put on cordwood saw great videos
very good ive been wondering about remaging magneto diagram but you have shown me by practical demonstation i must thank you for that.Weak mags are a bit of Pain but haveing that tool is a godsend ttfn&ty
A very helpful video where you showed how to build an electro-Magnetizer In my deutz engine, I attached magnets from the car starter to the magneto. And it worked too Greetings from Poland 😉
Hi Richard, at first thanks for this Video. would you please tell us some dimensions as diameter of wire, how many windings, the lengh and diameter of the core. Thanks a lot. Henning
A very elegant solution! May I offer one or two improvements over this great design of yours. Fit a reverse biased diode across the coil to kill any back EMF from the coil when the switch is opened, this will increase the efficiency of the magnetizer coils... A very high voltage is developed when the switch is opened and can actually erode part of the built up magnet. Use a couple of 50amp diodes in parallel across the coil in reverse bias. I have built a number of larger versions of this device in 2 and 4 pole configurations, one was run from 3 car batteries in series but the far more successful ones were powered from large capacitor banks. The capacitors were wired in parallel and the charge voltage to the capacitors could be varied depending on the flux density required. The switch needs to be very heavy duty but can be made from something as simple as some copper bar to form a knife switch. 50-300 volts DC is good. The advantage of this arrangement is a sudden polarization of the magnet, kind of what you were trying to achieve by tapping on the magnet with the low voltage supply. At the very least, try diodes and possibly a second or third car battery in series to increase the voltage.
To get the best charge in your magneto you need to remove the impulse mechanism if it has one and charge the entire magneto the steel in the magneto also takes some magnetism that will give you your hottest mag if the impulse isn't removed first, it will magnetize and not work. also, I have an original Bosch magneto charger it has 26-pound coils of number 10 square motor winding wire per winding the manual said to energize the charger for 3 seconds 3 times to charge the mag.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent, the magnet is a key part of the mag and often completely ignored. 👍👍
Great video thanks, but I would change those old HT leads.
I was already having a great day, and this video made it even better. One of my favourite channels, without a doubt. Many thanks. 🇬🇧👍
Fr bro has some of the best videos!
Gday, I’ve always wondered how to make a magnetiser, great results, thanks for sharing, cheers
Thank you! It is very basic really. I think it is a great thing to have when collecting old engines. /Richard
I've cranked this thing more than it's ran on its own, that was funny! Thanks!
Hi from Ontario (Canada). Many years ago I worked on a system for magnetizing the magnets for high end audio loudspeakers. The machine had banks of large capacitors joined in series-parallel capable of charging to 1200 Volts and delivering a 1000 amp pulse through magnetizing coils placed around the magnet cores. The cables to the coils were about 25mm in diameter and jumped like angry snakes when the capacitor banks were discharged. People with pacemakers were not allowed near it when in operation. The stray EMP would destroy watches, computer drives and magnetic credit/bank cards.
Gentleman, your toy is impressive, I was born and raised in the gasoline and diesel industry, but I have never seen one of your engines before, which I love to see at my 71 years of age, most kind of you for sharing this outstanding engine and technical information with us, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
I think even Michael Faraday would be proud of that magnetic monster! Have you seen his original electromagnet at the Royal Institution?
I've seen magnetos where people have stuck neodymium magnets onto the poles in an effort to boost the magnetic field.
Now, when I was still in school, which is a long time ago, we were taught to place a keeper across the ends of the poles. The purpose of which is to complete the magnetic circuit, which in turn would preserve the magnetic field density - a couple of large bolts, or a piece of steel bar would suffice. Once replaced into the magneto, the pole pieces and the rotor were sufficient to maintain the circuit. The rule of thumb was never to leave magnets without a keeper in place.
Similar experience with the keepers. I don't understand the idea of not letting the magnet grab onto the steel table surface.
@@clarencegreen3071 the idea I believe is the pull on the ions or electrons (pardon the rudimentary struggle?) Causes flow. The ions can begin to flow changing the position of same leaving the strength of the magnetic pull in the other piece it's stuck to. The magnetism is not affected this way by aluminium and is isolated from losing its charge in the magneto.. oR something like that?
Awesome work, Richard. Thanks a lot for yours videos. I hope you are OK. All of us are waiting for yours new project.
My uncle had a couple of those engines.
I was probably 10 years old and we mounted one on a drag with a saw rig to cut fire wood .
His always started and ran good.
Uncle Odd was a wizard with engines.
I miss him dearly.
Great video, building a magnetizer has been on my list of things to do for quite a while.
Hi from the USA, I like your channel, it is like going back in time
Yes my life is like a trip back in time! /Richard
Very good video Richard!!! What you cover is almost lost knowledge these days. I've got to make one of those chargers now! Thank you!
Hi! Glad that this inspired you! Well spent hours making one! /Richard
Its been some time my friend since you posted any video's .hope all is well with you!.....see you soon I hope
Very interesting. Too bad I didn't have this information back in 1958 when I had an old Cushman motor scooter with a magneto that was hard to start.
The magnetizer works great! Always glad to see a new video from you.
Always interesting to learn about old things 😎👍
You have shown a hole lot of people how to build a very inexpensive magneto changer.l love your Chanel and wish that you made more videos. Keep up the amazing work.
Hi! Thank you. Yes i hope that my videos can help other collectors and hobby workers out there to keep the steam up in their old engines. I will try to make more. Time is hard to come by these days. Take care! /Richard
Thanks for demonstrating this process. It is what I consider to be a good solution to a problem: simple yet very effective. At any rate, It reminds me of when I used to work for a company that used a lot of magnets in their products. The "magnets" arrived from the manufacturer in the unmagnetized state (I don't know what you call a magnet before it has been magnetized, I suppose there is a word for that.). The reason they came this way is that unmagnetized magnets are much easier and safer to handle and can be more easily machined if necessary. So, we had a device called a "magnet charger" which was used to magnetize the unmagnetized magnets. You put the unmagnetized magnet in the machine, pushed the button, something inside the machine went "click", and instantly the magnet became a full fledged, fully magnetized magnet. Just like that. I always thought it was kind of magical.
Hi! Yes all magnetic force feels kind of magical. Like a mystery but easy to control. /Richard
I think they are called anti-magnets. Whatever you do, you can't mix magnets with anti-magnets, he said in his best Montgomery Scott voice...
Solid state magnet after, thats all i know.
An non magnetized magnet is called steel :) The alloy is such that it is capable of keeping the magnetic force when magnetized. But it is still steel.
@@jlinkels Well, iron.
Thank you for sharing you magnetizer build and test with us. What a cool video!
Your videos are getting better and better as you are gaining confidence in front of a camera
Hi, yes if i had more time doing the videos i think that will also show in the videos. Thank you! /Richard
I figured he had enough confidence when he used a barrel of cooling water as a hot tub!
Amazing, Richard. Outstanding old-school knowledge for an interested, pleasant young man who is ready to share it with others. And now, pleeeease, show us how to re-magnetize a magnet-flywheel from an old motorcycle or stationary engine. I am going to travel to Sweden this summer. Hope to meet you there.
Hälsningar från Tyskland.
Thank you for another interesting video.
Ingenious, Mr. Richard !
Nicely done. Since you are using an old and powerless battery the current through the magnet is mainly determined by the current source capability of the battery, not the wire resistance. Given the spark on your switch when you disconnect the current, the current is really low. You are using thick and heavy wire but you have plenty of space around your cores. You if you would double the number of windings, the current would remain more or less the same, but the magnetic field would almost double as well. If it also makes your magneto magnet stronger is determined whether the cores of your magnet become saturated, and when the magnet itself is saturated. Measuring the saturation of your magnet could be done by measuring the field and note when it does not increase anymore when the current or winding count increase. If that would be of interest at all. In any case, saturation of the cores do not harm the functionality or the quality of the field.
I never thought I would see someone rebuilding a magneto!
Great episode, some great information about remagnetising mags. 👍😎
Another nice video for lovers of old machines. Thanks, very interesting.
The old machines had a sense of purpose without some difficulty we get now. Hearing that slow sure idle was a treat.i completely enjoyed this video. Top jobsir.
Thanks! I broke my mic, and bought a new one just like my old one. But the new one doesn't like loud engine sound..
But yes it is a treat to just sit and listen to a engine like this. /Richard
@@YesterdaysMachinery oh the irony! ha ha. I think the better things get , more we long for what we had?
@@jackrichards1863 simplicity is what i miss and the ability torepair things yourself which is pretty much unheard of these days .
I too have had engines that I have turned over more times by hand than it has turned when running! This might well be worth a try, and I have the scrap laying around to build one, Thanks!! Number of turns of wire(about)? Gage of wire used? Approx diameter of rods?
Actually it is better to shorten the magnet poles by means of a steel bar. You recommend to keep it far from steel (15:00). But the contrary is true. Magnets loose their force when a reverse magnetic field is working onto the poles. By putting a steel bar over the magnet poles, the magnetic circuit is closed again an less susceptible to external magnetic fields. Even if you put the magnet on a steel table, the table acts as a shorting bar. An almost infinitely large bar, but it still closes the magnetic circuit.
That’s why , many years ago, if we went to the shop to buy a horse shoe magnet, it was always supplied with a ‘ keeper’. A piece of steel across the poles., to prevent the magnet being demagnetised.
I’m boutta spend hours watching your videos😂 I love older stuff like my 1977 ke125, it’s the same year my dad was born. So to me you’re videos are beyond amazing! and I hope to influence others just like this one day.😁
Hi! Thanks 😊 I am working on videos right now! /Richard
Good morning I just watched your video on your tractors feel pumped it broke down I'm a 65 year old man from Wisconsin I live in a mobile home park and the people here already think I'm crazy I need a tractor like that But I don't really need one but I sure do want 1 Thanks for your videos they're very entertaining
This is a brilliant video. I have many pieces of equipment that I have sold because I could not get the Magneto to work. If I had realized it was possible to repair the magnets I would have done so long ago. Thank you so much for sharing this
Hi, thank you for being nice to me! Hope i didn't run you off and discourage you from making new videos. Im sorry for my stupid texts. Don't pay my stupid texted any attention and keep making awesome viddos! You my favorite person on youtube and watching your videos makes me happy! Burton
ALWAYS INTERESTED IN THE OLD IRON. ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO, THANKS FROM OVERLAND PARK KANSAS U.S.A.
Thank you! /Richard
Always feels like a video from the 1940's - excellent content!
Awesome to see you back at the videos. This was truly informative and hope you continue to create these learning videos in the future.. Thank you !!
Hi! Thank you for those nice words. Yes i really like doing them videos. And i hope that i can keep it up now in the future. Take care! /Richard
Excellent. Best video on RUclips. Finally someone who gives useful information and how to do it.
Hi Richard, Thank you for a very interesting video, I loved it. Glad to see you put that Wrigley truck to good use already. Take care my friend.
Such a simple solution to a real issue around these old Magneto units.
Great build as well using safe voltages that almost anyone can do.
What a great informative film thankyou. I have a ransomes mg6 crawler which i could never get started until i closed the plug gap right up and now i know why. Many thanks from Australia.
Never had anything to do with magnetos but they do seem very simple, thanks for a great video once more.
I like the engineering on that engine. I wish things could be engineered like that now. Thank you sir.
Very nice demonstration 👍👍🇺🇸
Thank you! This is by far the most simple and easy to understand video on magnetizers I have seen. I'm ready to build one for my own shop.
I am 85 years old and still I learn something new by watching your video. Over 50 years ago I had gaff rigged 26 foot Huon Pine boat with a big heavy single cylinder Simplex 5 HP petrol marine engine, started by grasping the big cast iron flywheel with both hands and pulling the engine over. It was always hard to start until I replaced the old mag with a new one, it made such a difference, now I know why. What is the purpose of tapping the magnet during the magnetising phase? Greetings from Tasmania Australia. 👍😁🇦🇺🦘
Hi and thanks for that,could you please draw a basic wiring diagram,including which way around you wind each coil and hoe each end is connected to what…thanks.
Well Done. It is amazing how much you increased the magnetic force of the magnet by remagnetizing it. I believe tapping the magnet with the brass
“hammer” assists the repositioning of the field/pole molecules in the magnet.
Thanks for another interesting and informative vlog.
Great illustration of knowledge.
Very enjoyable! Thanks for posting.
Havent seen anything new for a while......any problems? I shure do not hope so!!! I love yor little Clips!!!
Absolutely brilliant!
Best wishes from George
Richard, I really enjoy the videos. I have a magnetizer built by Allen and it has several steel blocks with different angles that lay on top of the magnet charger poles for charging round magnets in flywheels and armature magnets. Keep up the good work!
This is one gem of a channel, I’m so glad I found it!
It’s a cool motor like to see it working thanks for sharing
I also suggest change those spark plug cables as well, age and oxide usually builds up a resistance even on shorter lengths
So nice video, greetings from your fan in Argentina!!!
Just like mustie1 I had to started it again good job Richard
Cool. The most I have ever magnetised was some ball bearings, a nail and a screwdriver using a plastic tube wrapped in a coil of wire.
We had a mag remagnatised , but I never knew how they did it , thanks
Cool. Now if and when I ever need need too regenerize a magnet I know almost kbow how.
The thicker top steel pieces might not be creating the effect you intend. It will result in a weaker but more even (parallel) magnetic field than a thin piece. Consider tapering one end of the pieces so that you can rotate them to create a more concentrated field when needed. Also consider slotting the top piece mounting hole to minimize the air gap.
Also, the magnetic circuit is much longer than it needs to be. The side pieces could be shortened significantly, and the bottom also, to make it less wide. Make the coils (and the entire unit) as compact as possible while keeping the same number of turns.
Try heating it with a blowtorch just before or while tapping it. It will significantly increase how much magnetism it take and how long it will hold it for in the future. Do not cool it rapidly in water though. Cheer and thanks for the video.
How much wire did you put on the pillars and was it already insulated. Do you also. Know Know what size it is. Thank you for this video.
I would have changed the leads as well as they looked cracked but a great old engine and the electromagnet you made was very good.
That’s a great idea!!! Great job!!!
As usual Richard, a very interesting and informative video, thoroughly engrossing! 👌👏
What a great video, very informative. And that engine is a little sweetie! Wow, that runs smoothly! Thanks for sharing!
Great little video, Richard. Loved the DYI magnetizer and the explanation. Looks like it was a bit cold inside the workshop.
All the best to you.
Cheers.
Hi! Yes i have exactly the same temp as outside.... Im on my way to install a oilburnes that i have 🙂 Thanks /Richard
A great device Thank you for the Video
Take care yours Frank Galetzka
New subscriber and I am starting a welding , fabrication, foundry and light machine shop specializing in pre-war British race cars. I will be rebuilding and repairing magnetos as well. Thanks for the video.
Interesting, Informative and a successful d demonstration at the end. What more could we ask for. 👍
Ooooh I like so much you share this kind of knowledge quite lost today. Thank you!! ⭐️
Add a diode across each coil, to avoid sparking at the switch so much. The collapsing field is making a voltage spike, a backward diode will short out the back EMF, problem solved.
Awesome information that is one cool machine, thank you for sharing
If you hook up your magnetizer to low voltage high current AC (from an AC buzz box welder, perhaps, if you have one) it becomes a *demagnetizer.* The alternating field will leave almost no residual field in, say, a screwdriver that you need to use with small parts or a pair of pliers that you need to actually *drop* that spring ring when you release your grip.
Reminds me of an old, slightly unsafe trick to get more powerful magnetisation that acts really quickly so you don't need to spend time tapping on it etc.
Instead of that springy switch you made, wire in a piece of aluminium foil maybe half an inch wide and a couple inches long. And instead of the 12V battery, a standard plug for 240V AC. When you plug it in, the alu foil acts as a fuse and burns away almost instantly. What makes this work is that the foil will never break while the AC sine wave is passing through zero volts heading towards the opposite polarity, it always fails near the top (or bottom, opposite polarity) of the alternating sine wave where the voltage is highest. So instead of a mere 12V through the coils, for 1/50th of a second you have 240V or thereabouts and then the alu foil burns away to break the circuit. It never gets around to alternating to the opposite polarity because the circuit is broken by then. And the coils never overheat despite the high current, because they're only energized for a brief moment.
The downside, of course, is you get random polarity with a 50/50 chance of your magnet being the wrong way around. A sufficiently powerful diode could fix that, I guess.
Now obviously this trick predates OHSA by several decades; don't actually try this if you don't want to risk electric arcs burning things and splattering melted aluminium everywhere.
Thank you! I am running a few Gravely tractors which use WICO magnetos. Im going to investigate how i can refresh the field of the magnets.
My first youtube channel subscription and still the best! Keep up the great work! Amazing videos wildman.
LOOKIN' GOOD,NICE WORK...
wish you would have shown some dimensions of the metal used and gauge of wire and length. good video, it gives me a place to start
I have a 1916 Galloway 4hp that my dad bought in 1970 mag disappeared found one in Iowa the guy remagnetised it before shipping starts great no spark plug going to put on cordwood saw great videos
Another great video, I have always wondered how the re-magnetizing was done. Greetings from the province of Manitoba in the centre of Canada.
I will remeber this for my Terrot 250 1932, that I am restoring. thanks
very good ive been wondering about remaging magneto diagram but you have shown me by practical demonstation i must thank you for that.Weak mags are a bit of Pain but haveing that tool is a godsend ttfn&ty
At 14:51 you wisely commented that one should not try to test the "MagneNg Stenggs". Made my day.
Subscribed!!!
Hehehe, yes i noticed first when editing.. Thanks! /Richard
A very helpful video where you showed how to build an electro-Magnetizer
In my deutz engine, I attached magnets from the car starter to the magneto. And it worked too
Greetings from Poland 😉
C'mon Rich! The harvest season is over. Time to get some steam punk, badass videos on youtube that your known for! Love you always, Burton Reingold
that one gets 10 stars in my book thank you
Hi Richard,
at first thanks for this Video. would you please tell us some dimensions as diameter of wire, how many windings, the lengh and diameter of the core. Thanks a lot.
Henning
Looking forward to you're next video😊
The magnetising device is known as a 'growler' in Britain. If you run it on AC, you can test armature windingds with it.
A very elegant solution! May I offer one or two improvements over this great design of yours. Fit a reverse biased diode across the coil to kill any back EMF from the coil when the switch is opened, this will increase the efficiency of the magnetizer coils... A very high voltage is developed when the switch is opened and can actually erode part of the built up magnet. Use a couple of 50amp diodes in parallel across the coil in reverse bias.
I have built a number of larger versions of this device in 2 and 4 pole configurations, one was run from 3 car batteries in series but the far more successful ones were powered from large capacitor banks. The capacitors were wired in parallel and the charge voltage to the capacitors could be varied depending on the flux density required. The switch needs to be very heavy duty but can be made from something as simple as some copper bar to form a knife switch. 50-300 volts DC is good. The advantage of this arrangement is a sudden polarization of the magnet, kind of what you were trying to achieve by tapping on the magnet with the low voltage supply.
At the very least, try diodes and possibly a second or third car battery in series to increase the voltage.
Now this is a great video, I've learnt something valuable as my 1909 IHC motor has never had a really healthy spark. Many thanks
new subscriber, stumbled upon your channel. what fantastic content. Thank you for sharing your wonderful experience with yesterdays machines.
Richard another really interesting video. I wait for your videos constantly. Thank you for your professionalism.
To get the best charge in your magneto you need to remove the impulse mechanism if it has one and charge the entire magneto the steel in the magneto also takes some magnetism that will give you your hottest mag if the impulse isn't removed first, it will magnetize and not work. also, I have an original Bosch magneto charger it has 26-pound coils of number 10 square motor winding wire per winding the manual said to energize the charger for 3 seconds 3 times to charge the mag.
Superb video and very entertaining. Best wishes for many more great videos from Canada.
👍👌👏 2) Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards, luck and especially health to all of you.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge , I enjoyed your video very much . 🇦🇺