Glad I watched this video...!!! I'm a decorator by trade and am planning on re-decorating my eldest daughters room when she goes away but was going to use thin panels of mdf prior to the strips of mdf going on top... just saved me a bit of money and headache as the ceiling slopes and using panels in that corner would've been extra work... Top man..
@@RichManPoorTech Yes for def... prep is always key... done alot in the house so always sound base to work from.. my customers always say spend days doing prep then Decorations happen quickly...!!
@@christophercharles3426 I know exactly what you mean, if i have to repaint a car i spend weeks prepping the body, degreasing, masking, sanding, priming, sanding, re masking, re priming, and then the fun bit painting happens in 5 minutes wait 30 and another 5 mins, reminds me of dating
I’m glad it helped you, I was so fed up looking at diy videos that had poor finish, when I bought my 1st new built house I argued for ages to get them not to finish it so that I could get it done the way I wanted, after I did this, the sight Forman bought the same model house in the street and did the same, I eventually sold my house the same week as the identical house next door for £20k more, approximately 10% purely down to the quality fit and finish both inside and out
Thank you, this was very comprehensive and clear. The time codes on the video are well appreciated. Starting this project in the fall and will use your video as my guide, of all the similar videos yours had the best result, definitely due to your attention to detail. I was on the fence about the laser level but seeing it action sealed the deal.
thank you for your comment, make sure you get the self levelling laser as it really speed up the process from the cheaper Chinese type ones, I have seen so many poor quality diy video on youtube, this can be masked and made to look better by poor filming or shown from a distance, if you want top quality results then there is no short cuts, but the tech in the tool and adhesives used can speed up the process. just a note if you're using a single part filler instead of the 2 part filler i used, make sure you allow a few days for shrinkage before sanding smooth. Let us know how you got on when you do your wall
The best video on wall panels I have seen and I've watched alot. Thanks so much for your attention to detail. The end result is amazing. I've been nervous about doing something similar myself but your tips will help it go so much smoother. Great work
Thank you for your comment , I’m starting a fully DIY channel in the next month, in the process of editing the first few videos and hope to go live in February
This is such a useful video. Thanks for taking the time to make it! I'm doing this in my house at the moment, but I'm finding it hard to get invisible joints like you have, even after filling/sanding. It looked fine until I applied the undercoat/primer, which seems to show the joints off more. It's not too bad, but you can see a thin line where the two pieces of wood meet. Can you confirm if yours are visible or not? It doesn't look like it in the video. Thanks.
Going to do this in my daughters bedroom half height all the way around the room. Going to use a 6mm mdf first to line the walls (her walls already have T&G panneling half height. So need to rip that off and start again. Just need to think of how to finish the top edge
i would leave it square as i like that style, but you could either rout a round edge or style line with a palm router or add a edging strip, or lip either in the same or contrasting colour, just a couple of ideas
That’s great we were thinking of having a go ourselves but I only want half wall , you have clearly explained every step and I found this easy to follow thank you .. I’ll post you a pic when it’s done !
Thank you for your comment , I’m starting a fully DIY channel in the next month, in the process of editing the first few videos and hope to go live in February
@@RichManPoorTech Yes we are if our offer on a property is accepted! The property is part of an old Manor House so I think the panelling will work really well!
Great video. I am about to do panelling here at home and see many people paint the wall and the MDF/wood with the same colour. My question is if I can use the wall paint on the MDF/wood. I search the net and seems like wood must be painted with special wood colour. But then I see all these RUclips videos where people paint the wall and the MDF/wood the same colour. Thanks for the advice.
Yes you can paint the wall and wood or MDF with the same emulation paint that you are painting on a wall but you need to paint the wood or mdf with a primer undercoat first
Amazing job.. Looks really nice... I'm going to do this in my sitting room.. How much was it for the hole job.. I've got a homebase up the road from me...
I want this in our living room, before the flooring goes down. My only concern with the bottom peace that replaces the skirting board, is that if you mop the floors, won't it absorb the water and damage it?
The Mdf was cut straight with a good blade, and with the primer undercoat used the mdf was sealed with very minimal grain raising, once painted with emulsion there was no sign of raised grain
Just came across your page (now subscribed), really good video and I've just bought the level 3 laser on your recommendation. I want to do this type of panelling in my passage and then up the stairs, but only half way up (about 1000mm - 1200mm from the floor) what would you recommend to cap it off? Thanks for any advice.
Welcome aboard! i personally would leave just a sharp edge, bur you could either round the edge with a router at what profile you like, or adda profile wither a concave, round or a lip, make sure if you have to join 2 pieces together for length to make a compound miter joint
Great video !!! Just up to the wood filling part now just wondering is it ok to use the ronseal multi purpose natural wood filler as struggling to get the 2 part filler from anywhere ? Thanks
There is a link to the 2 part filler in my description, you can use the air dry ronseal natural wood filler, but it takes longer to dry completely, and it needs to be completely dry to avoid stink back
I want to panel my alcoves at either side of my fireplace in the style as above, but one wall is 180cm wide, and the other is 170cm wide. How would I do this as different size squares will not look right? TIA
as you have different sizes its hard loosing 10 cm, but depending on how long the wall is if keeping the squares the same size but the furthest upright i would increase the width and may be loose a bit on the upright furthest on the other shorter side or loose a bit on the last horizontals on the shorter side, or may be a combination of both, mark it out on the wall and follow the builders mantra if it looks right it is right, but 10cm is a bit, most people even looking probably wouldn't tell 5cm. but if you draw it out on the wall you can get a visual to get the best look sorry with i could help more
Hiya can you help me work my measurements out please I’m wanting to do this in my daughters room, the wall is 2.16m width and length is 3.2m I’m looking to have about 5 panels what size of everything would you recommend I get for the best outcome :) thank you so much
Hi mate, great video, as a self employed joiner, I've been asked to do some of these for customers. Can I ask what software you use for working out the spacings etc as it looks really professional.
Great video, I've had problems painting MDF in the past. You used a water based undercoat & assuming a dulux emulsion. Did you have any issues with the board ? Also how did you sand the MDF cut edges prior to fitting or just prime & paint ? Many thanks
i had no problems with the mdf from using the primer, if your being very picky there is a slight raise to the grain from using the primer sealer, but once painted this is hidden by the pattern left from the roller. also the edges cut by the circular saw were very clean, although i did give a light sand all over with the da fitted with a medium firm backing pad that came with the sander as while i was sanding the filled joints
I can’t see why not, a lot of that wall has had electrical sockets moved and wall filled plaster repaired and sanded just before doing this job so as long as plaster is dry out properly should be ok
Did you use a 2part filler, if using a single air dry filler it take a long time to dry did you allow to thoroughly dry before sanding back, are you mdf joints tight and primed before painting. Was the batons securely fixed To fix the cracks I would scrap a gauge into the mdf crack re fill sand smooth Caulk if needed Allow to thoroughly dry prime and re paint
Great video. Appreciate your focus on quality! Question: the only squared edged boards I can find here (US) are pine fingerjoint. The MDF all has rounded edges which don't work with the look we want. The fingerjoint boards are excellent, but not quite as straight or true, but we think we can knock them into compliance, if they're noticeably out. Seem reasonable ? How important is it that MDF be used?
The mdf has the squared off edge when we cut them, MDF was chosen because it is stable as well as good value for money here in the UK, which wood you choose is up to you but be aware of expansion or shrinkage, some woods expand and shrink more, i don't now if that is a problem in your part of the states as i know some areas of the states have great fluctuation in temperature and moisture and some areas don't
@@RichManPoorTech Ah, OK, I see your concern. I live in Southern California so the air is fairly dry and the temperature fluctuation relatively small. Thank you for your response. Keep up the great work!
As the recess of each square / rectangle is the same area , would it be a bad idea to get a few MDF , "Templates" to this exact size and use these for spacing? IE 2 templates, the one top bottom when adding the verticals, then rest in place to add the precut horizontals?
This could be done, and is the way many would do it as it may be quicker, the only problem with it is that if your out slightly with the template or the mdf strip all subsequential horizontals or vertical would also have this error, if its an error in the template then the error would also be multiplied by the end of the run, 1mm at the start could add up to 10mm after 10 strips, It would probably look right, and the saying goes if it looks right then it is right, however it depends how much of a perfectionist you are, or your partner is, for me it would bug the hell out of me every time i looked at it, especially when i know i could have done it perfect the 1st time. 30 years ago i bought a factory lower rear spoiler for my Porsche and spray painted it about 30 times until i got it perfect, once fitted you could only see the edge going around the exhaust but it had to be perfect to me otherwise i wasn't going to fit it to my car.
i used a tape measure for the distance, then used the laser level to project it across the wall, ive not had enough experience with laser measures to comment on the use of laser measures sorry
Hi, used your video to do this on a wall in our living room as found it the most explicit video for a beginner. However I am encountering a big problem. Once all wood was fitted, wood filler added and sanded down I primed the mdf and the wall before applying thr paint coat. The colour used on walls is almost similar to the one you use in the video but from Valspar. I have already done 3 coats of paint and it seems likecthe paint colour gets sucked in the primer leaving the wall and panelling more white then grey plus there still is a strong smell of primer coming of it. Lost my hope now and not sure what to do to get it at same grey colour as te rest of the walls which only had 2 coats of same paint. Any advice please?
Hi it sounds as if your primer is sinking into your mdf, and then your colour coat is doing the same thing, you might have to change your primer sealer to one that doesn't sink into the mdf and seals on top, before painting, also if you can smell the primer then it probably hasn't fully cured
Our ceiling and floors are sloped due to the tradesman before not levelling stuff properly. Basically means the floors and ceilings are slightly sloped so a bit stuck when one side of the ceiling is 1cm lower than the other. Do you have any tips on how to cut the wood?
You could cut in like you would with a work top, place level (pin in place) and roll a large washer with a pen in the middle to follow the contour, then cut along line with a jigsaw, small gaps will be filled with caulk or you could fill the gaps and sand, personally I wouldn’t want to fill more than 5mm but I have seen it done
Thanks for your reply. I think that’s a little out of my capabilities but could only think of perhaps not having a batten on the top and bottom and letting the lengths go down between the skirting board and architrave. Could you see any issues with that? Thanks!
Can I please ask... Would you panel a wall that has the door on that side? I have just bought a flat and really want this but every wall that would look best with this design on has the door on it :(
I would do it on a wall with a door but in the planning I would look at where the door lines up in the panel and adjust if needed for the door or look too adjust width just above door. Plan it out if it looks right it is right
@@RichManPoorTech perfect I guess that makes sense, if all the lines look uniform and the door doesn't distract from the pattern should look good. I have never done DIY as have lived with parents or rented but I am quite good with arty things so looking forward to it especially with such a detailed video! Would love a video on beginer friendly power tools for DIY! You are very good at explaining things in your other reviews 👌🏽 thankyou for your contributions
Hey I can’t figure out how you figure out the measurements. I keep seeing calculations with the width but not the height. My room is 183”w x 96” high. Please help!!!! Also, my biggest question is do you recommend plywood over the plaster walls??? This seems to be the biggest unknown. So many people don’t use it but I’m thinking you def need it!!! Please help. Thank you!!!
1st plywood, no need if you have smooth walls, if you haven’t got smooth walls then you need to get them smooth prep at the beginning is key to a good job, I suppose you could board the whole wall 1st but that is a extra expense 2nd measurements take the height of the wall, deduct the width of the 1st horizontal strip and then divide the remaining by number of strips, this should give you the center’s check on paper that your square are the same size
If you haven’t allready. With your room being 4648mm I’ve converted for my ease I’d do 8 inner squares across this gives you a measurement of 468.5mm wide gap between vertical Lats you would have 9 vertical lats I’d also do 4 downward squares with 5 lats this gives a measurement of 484.5mm between horizontal lats all lats should be 100mm wide for these measurements to work hope that helps. That being said it is all personal preference but keeping roughly in the 400-500mm area has never steered me wrong and people have been happy with it.
i wouldn't myself as i'm fussy and want a perfect job, thats why i sanded / polished the wall 1st with a drywall sander, and moved the plug sockets so that they were in the middle of the squares, i wouldn't want any paper lines showing in the finished job
I’m driving at the moment I will calculate later if you wish Information is in the video how to do it What are the width of your strips and did you want it 4 panel as in the video did you want portrait as in the video or landscape
Approximately 2.54 metric centimetres = 1 old British imperial inch, which hasn’t been taught in school here for the last 50 years, although we still buy building material in feet and inches then measure in mm to cut
With the Barton’s stuck on not screwed or nailed then as they are removed there is no deep repair, however there would be surface work needed, I would estimate no more than when I prepared the wall in the first place. shown in my video with the wall sander, this was after removing a built in wardrobe and moving some plug socket that was in the wall
Hi, thank you so much for your elaborate and detailed video. I'm just about to embark on a similar project however I cant seem to decide how many horizontal panels I'd like. I really like the size of your panels. Can you please tell me width of your panels and overall width of your wall horizontally? This will help me immensely with mine. Thanks
panel size is best to fit to your own room, you may have higher ceilings or wider room etc, but my panels are approximately 360mm x 450mm or 36 x 45 cm
i am presuming the glow refers to the grab adhesive, (glue) if your using different glue, temporary pin the planks with a small nails either below or through the wood and then it can be filled at the same time as the the filling stage, hope this helps
And to fill up my car with petroleum now at over £150, it all depends on weather you feel it is worth it, for me the perfect level wall is, as for my car I could walk,
I'm in Warwickshire in the Midlands uk, but i only do my own stuff as that takes up all my time with youtube, I should be starting on a full hose refurb in the new year, might start a new channel based solely on DIY and interior design rather than home and personal tech
Glad I watched this video...!!!
I'm a decorator by trade and am planning on re-decorating my eldest daughters room when she goes away but was going to use thin panels of mdf prior to the strips of mdf going on top... just saved me a bit of money and headache as the ceiling slopes and using panels in that corner would've been extra work... Top man..
Thank for your comment, as mention in the video just make sure that the wall is in good condition eg smooth before starting.
@@RichManPoorTech
Yes for def... prep is always key... done alot in the house so always sound base to work from.. my customers always say spend days doing prep then Decorations happen quickly...!!
@@christophercharles3426 I know exactly what you mean, if i have to repaint a car i spend weeks prepping the body, degreasing, masking, sanding, priming, sanding, re masking, re priming, and then the fun bit painting happens in 5 minutes wait 30 and another 5 mins, reminds me of dating
@@RichManPoorTech
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
just decided I'm gonna have a go at doing my own wall in the hall, your video will really be of help, thank you.
Thank you for your comment, and let me know how you got on, just take your time on accurate cuts and I’m sure you will be fine
Just done this for a nursery and this video guided me all the way! Can’t thank you enough cheers pal 👌🏻
I’m glad it helped you, I was so fed up looking at diy videos that had poor finish, when I bought my 1st new built house I argued for ages to get them not to finish it so that I could get it done the way I wanted, after I did this, the sight Forman bought the same model house in the street and did the same,
I eventually sold my house the same week as the identical house next door for £20k more, approximately 10% purely down to the quality fit and finish both inside and out
This is the best video on youtube for panelling wow!
Thank you for your comment
Thank you, this was very comprehensive and clear. The time codes on the video are well appreciated. Starting this project in the fall and will use your video as my guide, of all the similar videos yours had the best result, definitely due to your attention to detail. I was on the fence about the laser level but seeing it action sealed the deal.
thank you for your comment, make sure you get the self levelling laser as it really speed up the process from the cheaper Chinese type ones, I have seen so many poor quality diy video on youtube, this can be masked and made to look better by poor filming or shown from a distance, if you want top quality results then there is no short cuts, but the tech in the tool and adhesives used can speed up the process.
just a note if you're using a single part filler instead of the 2 part filler i used, make sure you allow a few days for shrinkage before sanding smooth.
Let us know how you got on when you do your wall
The best video on wall panels I have seen and I've watched alot. Thanks so much for your attention to detail. The end result is amazing. I've been nervous about doing something similar myself but your tips will help it go so much smoother. Great work
I’m glad it helped, let me know how you got on, they look really good with some hue lights at night casting a coloured shadow across them as well
Quality thanks! I'll shall be following this video when doing my living room
Thank you for your comment
Well explained & easy to follow instructions, thanks for taking the time to make this video
Thank you for your comment , I’m starting a fully DIY channel in the next month, in the process of editing the first few videos and hope to go live in February
Masterpiece! 💯
I’ll be attempting this myself, Piece of cake! 😂
Go for it! im sure you can do it
Nice job and some great tips. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment
Excellent thanks 👍🏼
Thanks for the comment, I will be starting a dedicated diy channel in the next couple of months if you are interested
Give that man a cigar 😂😊brilliant work
thank you for your comment i hope you enjoyed the video
hank you, this was very comprehensive
Thank you for your comment, hope it helped
Excellent video, thanks a lot… off to start in my home office now, wish me luck!
good luck
Great step by step video, well explained, giving this a go in my house (will prob need hubby's help)
I’m glad you like it, your hubby might not thank me
This is such a useful video. Thanks for taking the time to make it!
I'm doing this in my house at the moment, but I'm finding it hard to get invisible joints like you have, even after filling/sanding. It looked fine until I applied the undercoat/primer, which seems to show the joints off more. It's not too bad, but you can see a thin line where the two pieces of wood meet. Can you confirm if yours are visible or not? It doesn't look like it in the video. Thanks.
Quality and methodically done as always. Top Not Rich 👍
Thank you for your comment, i'm glad you liked it
Going to do this in my daughters bedroom half height all the way around the room. Going to use a 6mm mdf first to line the walls (her walls already have T&G panneling half height. So need to rip that off and start again. Just need to think of how to finish the top edge
i would leave it square as i like that style, but you could either rout a round edge or style line with a palm router or add a edging strip, or lip either in the same or contrasting colour, just a couple of ideas
That’s great we were thinking of having a go ourselves but I only want half wall , you have clearly explained every step and I found this easy to follow thank you .. I’ll post you a pic when it’s done !
Great to here, it’s why I started RUclips videos in the 1st place to help others, love to see pictures when done
easy to watch, got carried away and 2 hours later hahahaahah - well done, love the attention to detail.
Love the comment, I tried to make it as short as I could, and fully show all the steps, if you have Insomnia I will post the. 6 hours director’s cut
Great job mate , thanks for sharing 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Neat work mate. 👏🏼
Thank you for your comment , I’m starting a fully DIY channel in the next month, in the process of editing the first few videos and hope to go live in February
@@RichManPoorTech Nice one. The very best of luck with your project. I’ll definitely subscribe. 👍🏼
Great job
thank you for your comment
Great video, can't wait to do mine now
Go for it!
Did this today, video was hugely helpful. Thanks!
great to hear thank you for the comment
Decent video but seriously, a standard level is absolutely fine lol.
Yes a tandard level is fine, but so much easier with a laser level
Such a great video !!
Thank you for your comment
Great video thanks 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it
What a great video - you really do cover the detail so well. Thank you!
thank you for your comment,
Are you thinking about doing this to your wall?
@@RichManPoorTech Yes we are if our offer on a property is accepted! The property is part of an old Manor House so I think the panelling will work really well!
great video!
Thank you for your comment
Very nice indeed
Thank you kindly
MDF absolutely expands when exposed to extreme moisture and water
thank you for your comment thats why i used primmer and painted
got the same blue socks with the stripes
I’m going to have to watch it back now to see what I was wearing
Hi, did you paint the wall grey first before applying the panelling ?
Surprised you didn't use spirit level to ensure both bottom and top were plum
Thanks for the video. Can I ask what roller you used for the face of the mdf as it's not mentioned in the description?
I usually use Harris rollers, but looking at the video I think it was just a mini roller from Homebase I think medium pile
Great video.
I am about to do panelling here at home and see many people paint the wall and the MDF/wood with the same colour.
My question is if I can use the wall paint on the MDF/wood. I search the net and seems like wood must be painted with special wood colour. But then I see all these RUclips videos where people paint the wall and the MDF/wood the same colour.
Thanks for the advice.
Yes you can paint the wall and wood or MDF with the same emulation paint that you are painting on a wall but you need to paint the wood or mdf with a primer undercoat first
thank you, it was very interesting !
Thank you for your message, i have seen quite alot of sub standard information, and i tried to show how to do it properly, I'm glad you liked it
Amazing job.. Looks really nice... I'm going to do this in my sitting room..
How much was it for the hole job..
I've got a homebase up the road from me...
i never costed it, but about £50-60 for the mdf the rest i have links to the current prices in the description of what i used
@@RichManPoorTech Thanks for getting back.. That's a canny price, For a a canny job..
Excellent video,as regards the paint is it Matt emulsion like you would normally use on walls.or is it Matt wood paint ,
I used a primer sealer for wood on the mdf, then I used normal Matt wall emulation to paint the walls and mdf at the same time
Thanks for the video. What should be the thickness of MDF board?
I used 10mm mdf (around 3/8 of a inch) but it depends on what you want, but 10mm is what i thought would give the desired effect
Looks great 👍
Thank you
I want this in our living room, before the flooring goes down. My only concern with the bottom peace that replaces the skirting board, is that if you mop the floors, won't it absorb the water and damage it?
I have fitted it to the floor as we have carpet, you could fit it above skirting, just to note a lot of skirting is mdf
Thank you for such a great guide. Did you have any issues with the end grain of the MDF raising or were they covered with the caulk?
The Mdf was cut straight with a good blade, and with the primer undercoat used the mdf was sealed with very minimal grain raising, once painted with emulsion there was no sign of raised grain
@@RichManPoorTech appreciate the info mate. Take care.
Just came across your page (now subscribed), really good video and I've just bought the level 3 laser on your recommendation.
I want to do this type of panelling in my passage and then up the stairs, but only half way up (about 1000mm - 1200mm from the floor) what would you recommend to cap it off? Thanks for any advice.
Welcome aboard! i personally would leave just a sharp edge, bur you could either round the edge with a router at what profile you like, or adda profile wither a concave, round or a lip, make sure if you have to join 2 pieces together for length to make a compound miter joint
Hi is that an oil based primer for the mdf?
From memory I think it was water-based which surprised me
Brilliant video! This has helped me so much!
Question; Did you calk the edge as it joins the adjacent walls? Regards, Dom
Yes I did
Great video !!! Just up to the wood filling part now just wondering is it ok to use the ronseal multi purpose natural wood filler as struggling to get the 2 part filler from anywhere ? Thanks
There is a link to the 2 part filler in my description, you can use the air dry ronseal natural wood filler, but it takes longer to dry completely, and it needs to be completely dry to avoid stink back
I want to panel my alcoves at either side of my fireplace in the style as above, but one wall is 180cm wide, and the other is 170cm wide. How would I do this as different size squares will not look right? TIA
as you have different sizes its hard loosing 10 cm, but depending on how long the wall is if keeping the squares the same size but the furthest upright i would increase the width and may be loose a bit on the upright furthest on the other shorter side or loose a bit on the last horizontals on the shorter side, or may be a combination of both, mark it out on the wall and follow the builders mantra if it looks right it is right, but 10cm is a bit, most people even looking probably wouldn't tell 5cm. but if you draw it out on the wall you can get a visual to get the best look sorry with i could help more
Hiya can you help me work my measurements out please I’m wanting to do this in my daughters room, the wall is 2.16m width and length is 3.2m I’m looking to have about 5 panels what size of everything would you recommend I get for the best outcome :) thank you so much
Hi mate, great video, as a self employed joiner, I've been asked to do some of these for customers. Can I ask what software you use for working out the spacings etc as it looks really professional.
It wasn’t any special software just a spread sheet (numbers on a Mac) for my own reference and visual representation sorry wish I could help you more
Example total lengh of wall 3000 minus 8 uprights at 100mm each = 2200 divide by how many squares say 5
440 is the lengh of gap.Easy
Is 5mm mdf any good?
all depends on what you want the appearance to be
Great video, I've had problems painting MDF in the past. You used a water based undercoat & assuming a dulux emulsion. Did you have any issues with the board ? Also how did you sand the MDF cut edges prior to fitting or just prime & paint ? Many thanks
i had no problems with the mdf from using the primer, if your being very picky there is a slight raise to the grain from using the primer sealer, but once painted this is hidden by the pattern left from the roller. also the edges cut by the circular saw were very clean, although i did give a light sand all over with the da fitted with a medium firm backing pad that came with the sander as while i was sanding the filled joints
incredible video! which programme on your mac did you use to make that diagram to help you plan?
it was just numbers
thank you for your comment
What colour grey paint was used please?
from memory i thing it was Dulex Grey steel number 2 or 3, it is one that they mix up i think it is mentioned in the video at some point
Can you do this on freshly plastered walls with a PVA undercoat on? Young mom here starting from scratch and going to be doing this myself😁
I can’t see why not, a lot of that wall has had electrical sockets moved and wall filled plaster repaired and sanded just before doing this job so as long as plaster is dry out properly should be ok
Good for having a go, if you need to ask me any more advice then please do, you need to work quick with the gripfill
Subscribed
thank you for subscribing
I have done this with woo# filler but the joins where I filled have cracked. Do you know why and how I can fix this?
Did you use a 2part filler, if using a single air dry filler it take a long time to dry
did you allow to thoroughly dry before sanding back,
are you mdf joints tight and primed before painting. Was the batons securely fixed
To fix the cracks I would scrap a gauge into the mdf crack
re fill
sand smooth
Caulk if needed
Allow to thoroughly dry
prime
and re paint
Hi. What software are you using? Is that excel or a CAD type software?
It was just for a visualisation for the video and it was pages which is apple’s version of excel
Great video. Appreciate your focus on quality! Question: the only squared edged boards I can find here (US) are pine fingerjoint. The MDF all has rounded edges which don't work with the look we want. The fingerjoint boards are excellent, but not quite as straight or true, but we think we can knock them into compliance, if they're noticeably out. Seem reasonable ? How important is it that MDF be used?
The mdf has the squared off edge when we cut them, MDF was chosen because it is stable as well as good value for money here in the UK, which wood you choose is up to you but be aware of expansion or shrinkage, some woods expand and shrink more, i don't now if that is a problem in your part of the states as i know some areas of the states have great fluctuation in temperature and moisture and some areas don't
@@RichManPoorTech Ah, OK, I see your concern. I live in Southern California so the air is fairly dry and the temperature fluctuation relatively small. Thank you for your response. Keep up the great work!
As the recess of each square / rectangle is the same area , would it be a bad idea to get a few MDF , "Templates" to this exact size and use these for spacing? IE 2 templates, the one top bottom when adding the verticals, then rest in place to add the precut horizontals?
This could be done, and is the way many would do it as it may be quicker, the only problem with it is that if your out slightly with the template or the mdf strip all subsequential horizontals or vertical would also have this error, if its an error in the template then the error would also be multiplied by the end of the run, 1mm at the start could add up to 10mm after 10 strips, It would probably look right, and the saying goes if it looks right then it is right, however it depends how much of a perfectionist you are, or your partner is, for me it would bug the hell out of me every time i looked at it, especially when i know i could have done it perfect the 1st time.
30 years ago i bought a factory lower rear spoiler for my Porsche and spray painted it about 30 times until i got it perfect, once fitted you could only see the edge going around the exhaust but it had to be perfect to me otherwise i wasn't going to fit it to my car.
Did you use tape measure or laser measure? Would you recommend a laser measure ?
i used a tape measure for the distance, then used the laser level to project it across the wall, ive not had enough experience with laser measures to comment on the use of laser measures sorry
Nice job, what's the price for square meter? for this model, just labor.thanks
I have no idea, it would depend on what country, what area of that country, and if you have full order book etc
Hi, used your video to do this on a wall in our living room as found it the most explicit video for a beginner. However I am encountering a big problem. Once all wood was fitted, wood filler added and sanded down I primed the mdf and the wall before applying thr paint coat. The colour used on walls is almost similar to the one you use in the video but from Valspar. I have already done 3 coats of paint and it seems likecthe paint colour gets sucked in the primer leaving the wall and panelling more white then grey plus there still is a strong smell of primer coming of it. Lost my hope now and not sure what to do to get it at same grey colour as te rest of the walls which only had 2 coats of same paint. Any advice please?
Hi it sounds as if your primer is sinking into your mdf, and then your colour coat is doing the same thing, you might have to change your primer sealer to one that doesn't sink into the mdf and seals on top, before painting, also if you can smell the primer then it probably hasn't fully cured
good job but not really panels, just the illusion of panels - its just wall showing. what do u do if the wall is messy brick rather than nice plaster?
Use messy MDF to match…
Maybe i missed it, but what software program did you use for your initial planning? Thanks
I worked it out on paper but used a spread sheet, (numbers apples version of excel) for the visualisation of the wall with the dimensions on it
Our ceiling and floors are sloped due to the tradesman before not levelling stuff properly. Basically means the floors and ceilings are slightly sloped so a bit stuck when one side of the ceiling is 1cm lower than the other. Do you have any tips on how to cut the wood?
You could cut in like you would with a work top, place level (pin in place) and roll a large washer with a pen in the middle to follow the contour, then cut along line with a jigsaw, small gaps will be filled with caulk or you could fill the gaps and sand, personally I wouldn’t want to fill more than 5mm but I have seen it done
Thanks for your reply. I think that’s a little out of my capabilities but could only think of perhaps not having a batten on the top and bottom and letting the lengths go down between the skirting board and architrave. Could you see any issues with that? Thanks!
Can I please ask... Would you panel a wall that has the door on that side? I have just bought a flat and really want this but every wall that would look best with this design on has the door on it :(
I would do it on a wall with a door but in the planning I would look at where the door lines up in the panel and adjust if needed for the door or look too adjust width just above door. Plan it out if it looks right it is right
@@RichManPoorTech perfect I guess that makes sense, if all the lines look uniform and the door doesn't distract from the pattern should look good. I have never done DIY as have lived with parents or rented but I am quite good with arty things so looking forward to it especially with such a detailed video! Would love a video on beginer friendly power tools for DIY! You are very good at explaining things in your other reviews 👌🏽 thankyou for your contributions
What finish of paint do u use eggshell or semigloss on this?
i used Dulux easy-care matt, it is a wipeable paint finish
💯👍👍
Thank you for your comment 👍
Hey I can’t figure out how you figure out the measurements. I keep seeing calculations with the width but not the height. My room is 183”w x 96” high. Please help!!!! Also, my biggest question is do you recommend plywood over the plaster walls??? This seems to be the biggest unknown. So many people don’t use it but I’m thinking you def need it!!! Please help. Thank you!!!
1st plywood, no need if you have smooth walls, if you haven’t got smooth walls then you need to get them smooth prep at the beginning is key to a good job, I suppose you could board the whole wall 1st but that is a extra expense
2nd measurements take the height of the wall, deduct the width of the 1st horizontal strip and then divide the remaining by number of strips, this should give you the center’s check on paper that your square are the same size
If you haven’t allready. With your room being 4648mm I’ve converted for my ease I’d do 8 inner squares across this gives you a measurement of 468.5mm wide gap between vertical Lats you would have 9 vertical lats I’d also do 4 downward squares with 5 lats this gives a measurement of 484.5mm between horizontal lats all lats should be 100mm wide for these measurements to work hope that helps. That being said it is all personal preference but keeping roughly in the 400-500mm area has never steered me wrong and people have been happy with it.
Can you do this onto wall paper?
i wouldn't myself as i'm fussy and want a perfect job, thats why i sanded / polished the wall 1st with a drywall sander, and moved the plug sockets so that they were in the middle of the squares, i wouldn't want any paper lines showing in the finished job
Hi can you help if my wall is 2m 560mm high x 5m 100mm length how to work it out tia
I’m driving at the moment I will calculate later if you wish
Information is in the video how to do it
What are the width of your strips and did you want it 4 panel as in the video did you want portrait as in the video or landscape
What is a centimeter? Is it like a inch or two? We use actual real measurements in the U.S.
Approximately 2.54 metric centimetres = 1 old British imperial inch, which hasn’t been taught in school here for the last 50 years, although we still buy building material in feet and inches then measure in mm to cut
How is it to remove this later?
With the Barton’s stuck on not screwed or nailed then as they are removed there is no deep repair, however there would be surface work needed, I would estimate no more than when I prepared the wall in the first place. shown in my video with the wall sander, this was after removing a built in wardrobe and moving some plug socket that was in the wall
Hi, thank you so much for your elaborate and detailed video. I'm just about to embark on a similar project however I cant seem to decide how many horizontal panels I'd like. I really like the size of your panels. Can you please tell me width of your panels and overall width of your wall horizontally? This will help me immensely with mine. Thanks
panel size is best to fit to your own room, you may have higher ceilings or wider room etc, but my panels are approximately 360mm x 450mm or 36 x 45 cm
I’m struggling to understand how to work out how many panels I need. My wall is 296.5 wide and 248 high. I’ll go with 10cm panels
65
We try to make it but with the glow is not stay
i am presuming the glow refers to the grab adhesive, (glue) if your using different glue, temporary pin the planks with a small nails either below or through the wood and then it can be filled at the same time as the the filling stage, hope this helps
Hi. Do you not need to pin the panels with a nail gun as well as glue?
Not if using high grab adhesive like I was using, I did give time for top rails to dry before verticals and again before fitting horizontals
@@RichManPoorTech Thank You.
Laser levels hmmmm 100quid a pop.
And to fill up my car with petroleum now at over £150, it all depends on weather you feel it is worth it, for me the perfect level wall is, as for my car I could walk,
Would love to pay u to do mine if you do what where and qhrn
I'm in Warwickshire in the Midlands uk, but i only do my own stuff as that takes up all my time with youtube, I should be starting on a full hose refurb in the new year, might start a new channel based solely on DIY and interior design rather than home and personal tech
No tradesman use pink grip it’s terrible