iPhone UNDERFILLED ics: BLAST OFF method
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2023
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Impressive . . most impressive! I normally use an underfill remover liquid that Mechanic makes. It's awesome stuff, but it can take quite a bit of time to work its magic, and it can also make a bit of a mess, so I'll definitely be giving this method a spin. Always nice to have an extra technique in your back pocket. And BTW, I'm also a fan of high heat, high air, and do it fast fast fast; I'm with ya on the 400° C method. Thanks for demoing this! I always learn something when I watch your videos, so thanks again!
😀👍
Wonderful example of this, thanks Jessa
I like this method, I will give a try. Thank you
I would be afraid of ripping off pads. The method that i use if placing the logic board on a preheater at 160 degrees then using 300 degrees with the hot air station after 20 seconds the chip is ready to go
Thank you, Dr. Jones!
Gracias Jessa! Siempre aportando
thanks
Back when iphone 7 c12 jumper was a raging repair I would pre heat my board to around 90C thinking I was helping however was always popping out ball from the underfiller BB-PMIC on the other side making more work, and then I just started hitting audio ic hard and fast no pre heat like this and had way more success. Re ip13 thermal id 3 minute reboot I had one last month that looked like charge port but ended up needing a jumper from charge fpc to power flex fpc hard to explain but its a broken trace on the top layer kinda like some ip8's are showing recently. Re USB-C for iPhones my prediction is they will use a similar setup as the MacBook where a CD32 like chip will be in charge of talking and sending the gate high or low and you bet we wont be allowed to buy it
I recently started designing PCBs in KiCAD, and the component density of these iPhones is just next level insanity. To be fair, though, I'm guessing there's at least 6 layers just so you can maneuver those traces where they need to go.
I'm actually freaking out a little seeing all those tiny SMD bits crammed in there.
Same.
Excellent😊 hello from Puerto Rico 🇵🇷
I've heard it called "ball squeezeage".
Electronics Repair School also does the high heat fast removal technique, ie, 450-480ºC.
Off the grid
(Years ago black widow used blast off to rock a train station)
Whit pro heater??? perhaps its more eazy
Very close to our "point blow" method, in which we blow the chip with high temperature intermittently, about twice per second, to prevent the heat from accumulating in the board.
Hi Jessa.. i have iphone xr, but when i press power button ampere up to 0.35 and than back to 0 again, and over again.. if , i unplug nand ic,.. the device on dfu mode.. i have to change nandflash, there still stuck on dfu, and dont wont to recovery mode when i flashing with 3utools or itunes.. i have to check voltage on nand ic and there is normal voltage.. how we fix that.. thank you Jessa
never pulled some weaker traces with this method?
This method is good but it only applicable when you are going to change the ic's but not in reusing the ic's.
Yes, we never re-use underfilled ics, always replace. So you either "spare the board" like with this method, or you "spare the chip" if you were harvesting the chip from a donor board. We would not reuse an underfilled ic because it has no way to become damaged where simply removing it and putting that same chip back would solve a problem. Water does not go under the chip because of the underfill. So crack in the chip and electrical damage are the only reason we would be removing an underfilled ic on a repairable board. I hope this makes sense.
If you review the microscope recording on a better screen than my phone is there any sign of that chip being cracked before its removal? It feels like the chip would hold together better than the pads would hang onto the board, which leaves the success quite surprising.
no, and this phone was working. It's only defect was three minute boot loop, and I'm ruling out PMU at the end of a long series of troubleshooting charge port sensor data. The smaller chips don't crack, but at this size, especially since I try to keep the heat slightly favored toward the non-CPU side of the board, it often cracks.
Another method I used to use was intentionally crack the chips then remove the pieces with a soldering iron on top.
@@JessaJones Wow, the technique gets yet more brutal. Glad it works. Makes sense, though: conducted heat is easier to direct than hot air. Be hot HERE.
Sorry if I missed it, what temp did you use for this method?
Super crazy hot. You have to figure it out for your station, mine is very different than most other stations
torn pads happening during the "cold and slow" method are from the solder melting bonding to the board and chip better, then solidifying before the chip gets removed?
Or perhaps the solder “just” melting enough to remove the chip, but not melted all the way across the chip
RUclips dont want you to grow... i never get the lives for your channel....