Great video! Here are the notes I took so the next guy can use them: ================================================================ Ford F-150 Front Wheel Bearing Hub: ----------------------- Brake Caliper (2) nuts torque: 136 lbs Wheel Hub assembly (4) nutes torque: 129 lbs Tie Rod stub (1) torque: 85 lbs Axle nut torque: 20 lbs --------------------- Additional Notes: --------------------- ABS sensors facing up when installing new wheel hub Anti-seize spray needed Wheel hub / grease needed Sander/grinder attachment needed for any built up rust. ================================================================
Great, except you forgot to pull vacuum to disengage the IWE actuators to fully seat the hub. Doing it without pulling vacuum has been known to create issues and eat bearings which.
+@Huzzunga Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Well I watched this video and followed the directions step by step and got everything done got everything back together....was even able to do it without popping off the tie rod arm by simply moving my steering wheel back and forth. Went to put the axel nut on set the torque wrench to 20lbs and wouldn't ya know it's broke the threads off the end of the axel 🤦♂️ Now my question is can I drive the truck 20 miles to the shop like that or do I need to call a wrecker?
Oh, and in the description of the tools needed, it's a 21 mm socket, not a 22. Would have liked to know that before I got my wheel off and had to run back to the store to get a 21 mm socket.
Long story post and question. I replaced my left front last Friday. Today it is smoking hot. I bought the low end store brand Drive Works from Advance auto parts. They are going to honor it. But I can’t figure out why this went out in a couple of hundred miles. When I turn my hubs my front axles turn, which seems normal from what I have read. Seems counter intuitive with vacuum lines to the hub, and ring gear on the cv end and the hub. So, what the heck? This was an easy job. I even retorqued the left front to 20 foot pounds yesterday as a double check, 240 inch pounds on my torque wrench. I work aircraft not vehicles. Any more torque than that needed I used the company equipment I can’t think of an error I made, it is a very straightforward job, just heavy. 2010 Ford F-150 FX4 super crew 5.4 liter V8 I had a huge misadventure last year, left it in four low for 70 miles. Highway speed. I don’t know if these automatics kick it out of 4wd if you exceed, but I never saw high rpm. Yes I know that was stupid. Could it contribute months later? I don’t know, especially five days later when 4wd seems fine, and everything was great after the first bearing change. I’d appreciate any insight beyond Gee that was dumb, since pointed out the 4wd incident. It’s a longer story how it got by me. Working right up until I had to shower and run thirty miles to work would explain the distraction. As for not noting achuge rpm or jumping out of 4wd, you got me Thanks
Anyone with the TRQ Hub that can verify it's good quality? notice the significant difference in price with TRQ and the OEM motorcraft one, and I don't know if the TRQ ones are good quality.
This part better last more than 6 months 🤔 i got 2 sent to me replaced driver side with a totally different wheel hub but passenger side im putting another trq wheel hub in so we will see they have a great warranty but who wants to do job over and over .i hope i just got 2 bad one the first go around and the one im putting on will last my oem lasted 100 thousand miles .trq first ones lasted maybe 10 thousand miles .
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Great video! Here are the notes I took so the next guy can use them:
================================================================
Ford F-150 Front Wheel Bearing Hub:
-----------------------
Brake Caliper (2) nuts torque: 136 lbs
Wheel Hub assembly (4) nutes torque: 129 lbs
Tie Rod stub (1) torque: 85 lbs
Axle nut torque: 20 lbs
---------------------
Additional Notes:
---------------------
ABS sensors facing up when installing new wheel hub
Anti-seize spray needed
Wheel hub / grease needed
Sander/grinder attachment needed for any built up rust.
================================================================
Great, except you forgot to pull vacuum to disengage the IWE actuators to fully seat the hub. Doing it without pulling vacuum has been known to create issues and eat bearings which.
Nice straightforward instructional video. I’m getting ready to do this right now now.
+@Huzzunga Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Great video attention to detail was great! That what have too do on my King Ranch thanks for such a great video keep it up!!
What is the anti seize spray used at the 5:40 mark? What other brand names are there?
This was superb guidance. Thank you so much.
Great workmanship!!! Take care 💯💪🏻💯
This is what im doing to my f150 in the morning,,,thx again
Well I watched this video and followed the directions step by step and got everything done got everything back together....was even able to do it without popping off the tie rod arm by simply moving my steering wheel back and forth. Went to put the axel nut on set the torque wrench to 20lbs and wouldn't ya know it's broke the threads off the end of the axel 🤦♂️
Now my question is can I drive the truck 20 miles to the shop like that or do I need to call a wrecker?
Just an amazing and friendly video!! Thank you!
When he took the axle nut off he pushed in that bolt. Why? Lol jw I'm a noob. Do you have to pull it back out?
So what hub do you need I have a 2011 4×4 supercrew xlr offload and there's like 50 different hubs
Thanks for sharing definitely a task I can do ✌🏽
What impact is that Ik it’s ingersoll rand but what model number is it?
Oh, and in the description of the tools needed, it's a 21 mm socket, not a 22. Would have liked to know that before I got my wheel off and had to run back to the store to get a 21 mm socket.
Long story post and question. I replaced my left front last Friday. Today it is smoking hot. I bought the low end store brand Drive Works from Advance auto parts. They are going to honor it. But I can’t figure out why this went out in a couple of hundred miles.
When I turn my hubs my front axles turn, which seems normal from what I have read. Seems counter intuitive with vacuum lines to the hub, and ring gear on the cv end and the hub.
So, what the heck? This was an easy job. I even retorqued the left front to 20 foot pounds yesterday as a double check, 240 inch pounds on my torque wrench. I work aircraft not vehicles. Any more torque than that needed I used the company equipment
I can’t think of an error I made, it is a very straightforward job, just heavy.
2010 Ford F-150 FX4 super crew 5.4 liter V8
I had a huge misadventure last year, left it in four low for 70 miles. Highway speed. I don’t know if these automatics kick it out of 4wd if you exceed, but I never saw high rpm. Yes I know that was stupid. Could it contribute months later? I don’t know, especially five days later when 4wd seems fine, and everything was great after the first bearing change.
I’d appreciate any insight beyond Gee that was dumb, since pointed out the 4wd incident. It’s a longer story how it got by me. Working right up until I had to shower and run thirty miles to work would explain the distraction. As for not noting achuge rpm or jumping out of 4wd, you got me
Thanks
No loctite on the hub bolts?
Anyone with the TRQ Hub that can verify it's good quality? notice the significant difference in price with TRQ and the OEM motorcraft one, and I don't know if the TRQ ones are good quality.
The torque is 129 ft lbs?? That sure does seem like a lot
Nice work
Thank you!
This part better last more than 6 months 🤔 i got 2 sent to me replaced driver side with a totally different wheel hub but passenger side im putting another trq wheel hub in so we will see they have a great warranty but who wants to do job over and over .i hope i just got 2 bad one the first go around and the one im putting on will last my oem lasted 100 thousand miles .trq first ones lasted maybe 10 thousand miles .
+@charles17508 Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
That truck had to be from up north with all that rust!
Super helpful. Thank you. On a side note: the rust under there is cringe worthy!!! Mmmm Flakey!
+@Okierover Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
must have been a northern truck. geez
WHY DONT YOU GREASE THE BOLT TREADS TOO,THAT HOLD THE HUB ASSEMBLY I WOULD THINK IT BE DOING JUSTICE NEXT TIME CAN COME OFF EASY ?
So it's a 4x4 huh? Thanks for wasting my time. It would be nice if you could mention that in the title...