Find Car Vibrations Episode 426 Autorestomod
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- Опубликовано: 16 ноя 2024
- Find Car Vibrations Episode 426 Autorestomod
Vibrations from your car chassis are never fun. We look at ways to spot classic car vibration issues.
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Driveline vibrations
Wheel and Tire
Balance
Bent wheel
Damaged tires
Driveshaft
U joints
Damage
Hanger bearing
Engine and transmission
mounts
Rear axle
bearings
Carrier gear
Housing alignment
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Also check the driveshaft slip yoke bushing in the transmission tail housing.
Be sure the crossmember itself is tight too.
Another one is if you have changed wheels and they don't have recesses around the lug holes on the mounting face to clear the rotor/drum retainer clips, that can cause excessive runout on the wheels. I usually toss the retainer clips anyway.
Always a good idea to check all ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and control arm/A-arm bushings as well when you're under the car, just to rule them out.
Also another vibration on anything high mileage( like nearly every F series) is the gear set. Especially on hunting ratios. Where the same tooth contacts the same part of the crown wheel. 3.00:1 ( 30 tooth crown and 10 pinion) are the main culprit.
Great stuff. I bought a 81 f100 last week I had the 2 inch lift kit in the shifter as well. Turns out one random bolt was bolting the trans to the bellhousing. I thought it was the mount till I saw that.
Seems to be a "thing" with Ford trucks. The 72 was held together by two when we bought it.
Thanks for the informative and entertaining video.
Any idea on where to focus for vibrations that occur primarily as the truck decelerates through 1200 to 800 RPM. Never during acceleration or idle. Thanks in advance
Very Nice work. Very informative. Thank you !
Awesome guys, will be checking out the hoodies shortly, ...also I think one of my rear tyres (tires) is out of balance, and also some movement in my rear uni...I can't seem to get it "clipped" in properly?...but it's the thrill of the chase, ...chasing down the problem that is...
I’ve been chasing a driveline vibration for two years. It comes in at an indicated speed of 75 mph (approx 65 true road speed), so after checking everything I could think of and not getting anywhere, my solution most of the time has been to just not go that fast. But now I know I can dial indicate my wheels!
Hey Andrew did you get your stickers yet? Dollars to Donuts it's either a wheel problem or drive shaft problem. Email me direct and we can put our heads on it.
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media I did get my stickers. They’re awesome, everyone should join the top fuel level on Patreon so they can get cool stuff, too.
There are whole classes on NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) that I took when working in a dealership. The main tool is a vibration meter that you can get an app for. Here's a guide that will you help find the cause. www.testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2%20spyder/References/Technical%20Training/04%20-%20Noise,%20Vibration%20and%20Harness/02.pdf
I have a 1972 F100. Since I purchased it in 2017, I've had this annoying vibration issue most noticeable around 45-50mph. I could feel it in the seat, in the steering wheel, hear it, etc. I had the drive shaft rebuilt and rebalanced, new carrier bearing, new rear diff yoke, new brake drums, the wheels balanced, new engine and transmission mounts, new harmonic balancer, rebuilt engine, etc. and yet it still persists.
I'd look into the axle housing and rear axle bearings. Do the same run-out check we showed for the front tires. Now if the vibrations is coming through the steering wheel it might be something wholly different. Look to the king pins and front axles. It may be a multiple layer issue.
I've got a 64 Fairlane and in my quest to limit vibration, I noticed exhaust pipes secured without insulated hangers and pipe that was rubbing against frame/body.
Interesting video, good for helping out rookies like me. I have a question for you. I'm restoring a '69 mustang coupe, and it's in the paint and body stage. All of the trim pieces that need come off have been removed and I have a weatherstripping kit on the way. The thing I noticed when I took it all off was the dried out and cracked up black sealing putty. What the heck was that stuff? What is a suitable replacement for the sealing putty beneath all the pins on the trim? plain old RTV? It been on the books for something to look into for a while, and figured i'd ask the experts, AKA you guys. Another crazy thing I discovered about the car is with the rear end. The rear end tag and the vin door tag don't match. I know the first idea would be that the rear had been swapped, but man I know what 50 years of weather, surface rust, and junk look like, and I can tell you that it is the original axle. It's a 28 spline 9", the door tag says 2.75, and the axle tag says 3.00. What do you think? I chalked it up to being Ford in the 60's and just using whatever was on the shop floor.
Most of the original trim nuts had a product called 3M strip caulk around the inside of them as part of the nut package when they were installed. You can still get the 3M strip caulk if you want to replicate that look.
The factory might have been out of the 2.79 axles. I have always said there are no "never or always" in the whacky world of auto manufacturing.
@@AutoRestoMod Could be. The yolk on the pinion is a longer version, and I had to go find the very oddball U-Joints at NAPA. I haven't been able to get a buddy to roll the opposite wheel in the forward direction, open diff, to check marks to see what gear set is actually in the rear end, so it could be anything with a spare tag on the outside. Thanks for the Info. Love the videos. Could you guys cover rear-end lockers in the future? I've been planning on purchasing a Powertrax No-slip in the future. You guys also need to do some click-bait in the titles of your videos, really get those random clicks from the guys who are looking for a video. It always sucks to see an awesome channel that isn't getting noticed.
How about body vibrations and noises? Any tips on tracking them down? Just install a small child to move around and listen?
If my vibrations aren't making parts fall off, then I tend to just live with them (after looking everything over a few times).
Lol. As long as I know they aren't dangerous I will often love and let live too.
Really enjoy your channel thank you for the content . I know it's off topic but what's your thoughts on the new Edelbrock Pro Flo 4?
Thanks for the kind words I appreciate it we haven't looked at the pro flow enough to really pass judgment on it yet. But we will look into it thanks for the heads up.
years ago I had a 69 Ford f-100. 390/tott. I had to replace the u-joints on it . Well I get the job done and go to my test track, AKA the street in front of my house. At 45 mph there was a heck of a vibration nothing above or below that speed. I am thing what the heck is going on.? I crawl under the truck checking out everything ,and then I see it. One of the u-joint clips was just barely sticking out. tap it back in and the vibration goes away.
Any info on exhaust vibrations or harmonic vibrations from the exhaust? Thanks!
I personally haven't run into a case (not that they don't exist) where the exhaust causes that bad of a vibration.
So I have a 1986 F-150 2wd. When going around 60-70 mph in my truck, the whole bed starts to shake in a fast violent wobble back and forth motion (very noticeable with the headache rack on.) Any helpful tips you could throw my way on where I can look into what could cause something like this to happen? Been chasing this issue for quiet a while now, and have looked at all the areas this video mentioned. Thought it was the rims since they were out of the tolerances, but still does it with new tires and rims. Any help is much appreciated!
I'd look at the rear axle. These old Fords take a lot of abuse over time and may well have been overloaded at some point.
Thank you for the help. I should have mentioned I rebuilt a rear end axle I pulled from a local part yard and after swapping it in, it still had the same shake. So far I've replaced the axle, tires, rims, shocks, and all leaf shackle bushings. All the suspension parts up front also see fine with no play.
I got a 1973 with 428 Big Block in it when I hit 80 miles per hour the front passenger side has has a severe wobble somebody told me that it might be the gearbox does that sound right and how do I tell
I might look more to king pins if it is a truck.
Engine balancer, rubber comes apart.
Good info guys. Regards, one of the aussies lol
Well now that I've tuned in, that's all of us. LOL
Warped rotors
Yeah I thought about that right after I finished up the edit on the video LOL.
Crusty wheel mounting surfaces
Morning lol
What is runout? You measure stuff with all these unfamiliar instruments, and I don't even know what you're measuring.
First view and comment and like damnn
Well those Buick GS's have always been pretty fast :-) !