How to Diagnose Driveline Vibrations Classic car Muscle Car Episode 264 Autorestomod
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- How to find driveline vibration. Is it in the engine? Is it in the Drive shaft, the rear axle, or maybe it is in the tires. We discuss each area, show methods for testing..
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Fun to see Cameron's on camera "persona" improve. Keep up the good work, Cam. Nothing like doing it to get better.
I love this channel. Great information and I love to see the next generation of gearheads coming along. Thank you Autorestomod.
I've also seen vibration problems when there is a tight spot in the ujoint rotation. Just thought i'd throw that out there
What about the tail shaft bushing in the transmission? Would that cause an issue? My 67 289 with a c4 vibrates at 55-60 rpm. It never used to do that. I had a new crankshaft put in, and the guy that did the crankshaft said the vibration is from the tailshaft bushing being bad. Now I don't know what to do. I don't want to just throw money at it not knowing the issue. And transmission shops are expensive. Please help.
SMALL WORLD... DIDN'T KNOW YALL WERE IN AIKEN S.C..... I'M FROM THWE AUGUSTA AREA, BUT CURRENTLY RESIDE IN ATLANTA...
I love that you have a clevland in that fairlane wagon. Very cool car! Maybey give some details about that engine sometime? I love clevlands & FE's
351 Cleveland .030 over. Hyperutectic pistons. 9.5:1 compression. Mild RV cam for low end power, I didn't get the cam card when I bought the car; plans are to possibly update to a roller cam. Ford Motorsport 1.60 roller rockers. Edelbrock Performer intake and 650 Street Avenger carb. Heads are Aussie 2V closed chamber heads. Ignition is a Pertronix, nothing fancy just the basic one. Using Jet Hot Coated stock 2V manifolds. Now sporting a 4R70W with a US Shift Quick 4 controller. 8-inch rear axle with 3.00:1 gears. Dynotech aluminum driveshaft. Suspension has Viking Shocks, roller spring perches, and 3/8 shims on the upper control arm to add more caster in, front sway bar is 1 1/8-inch rear is 3/4 inch. Rear springs are stock ride height Eaton Detroits. Fron coils have one coil removed, unsure of the brand (they were there when I got the car) considering getting rid of them in favor of Eaton Detroit Spring coils. Wheels are Legendary Wheels Magnums in 17x7. Brakes are Granada 11-inch rotors.
@@AutoRestoMod very nice! & thank you very much! I love cars (engines especually) & your show. Im surprised to read your using 1.6 rockers. That seems unusual to me since the stock ones are 1.73. But I guess I'm using 1.7 rockers on my 466. But it sounds like you have the good heads. Nice car!
On my 68 I had a vibration. Replacing the U-Joints (One was shot) helped. Turns out the Transmission mount was shot also.
+W King Good point on the trans mount. We'll be digging into the rear axle and drive line on that car a bit later.
Thanks for your quick response. The tire are brand new it happened after I put in a new drive shaft 4 mechanic include a suspension specialist cant figure it out. one mechanic told me if it happen after install a new drive shaft then is should be the drive shaft. What do u think?
If that was the only change; we would side with that mechanic.
Jay Leno said in his last video the tires on Paul Walkers Death Porsche were 10 years old and they'd be hard as a rock
Porsche recommended never more than 24 months old.
Clutch pressure plates can be out.
Resurfaced flywheels.
Good point Ray!
hi autorestomod muscle car, i really need your help. i have 1998 toyota 4runner 4 cylinder manual. after i replace the drive shaft and the drum brake. its start have death wobble(its come and go at the highway speed) i brought it to several mechanic( even a suspension specialist) but they cant figure out the problem is. when its has a death wobble the brake wont engage properly(i need to pull over to complete stop to stop the death wobble before i can drive again) do u think is the drive shaft? please help! thank you
Wobbles are more likely suspension, tire or wheel related. Have another shop check. Also, check the tires. You could have a tire that has a bad belt in it.
Also it sounds wierd to me you call it a wheel bearing in the rear on a rear wheel drive car? I'd call that a axle bearing? No matter though, I'm smellin what your steppin in.
I see your point. We all have different names for things. I will go back and forth on calling them axle bearings and wheel bearings.
Really? Its a needle grease fitting. comes on aftermarket U-joints.
Randy McGinnis
Ya that was a goofy weird comment.
Good show -- did you think of using a timing light as a strobe to stop action look at rotating pieces? Also it did not look like you had loosened the nuts on the rear u-joint bolts so did this issue occur before you started modifying the wagon? Looked like that was a cap grease fitting as often used in replacement 4X4 shafts - Custom Drivesafts Gold Seal u-joints all come with a greaseable cap. It will take either male or female (less chance of getting knocked off) grease fittings. And they are damned lot easier to lube than getting the hose into the centre of the joint. You also should have used the indicator to be sure that the u-joint in fact was centered in the saddle of the pinion yoke. You checked wheel bearing but didn't check the pinion bearings even though there appeared to be an amount of old grease build up on the front of the carrier.
+10susan10 Timing light is a good idea, we hadn't thought of that. The issue was know from the previous owner. He mentioned it to us before we bought it. Yeah, once we found the rear axle bearing being what appears to be very grumpy, we decided to do a rear reman on the whole axle in a future episode.
Good information you guys shared. Thank you. Did you really throw that in to park before putting your foot on the brake to stop the rotation of the drivetrain? It sure sounded like it. Lol
These things happen.
Be sure to pick up some sausage links in Elgin they're pretty good.
+Brian TX From Jeff: I think I gained 20 pounds between Southside BBQ, Tex Mex, and Whataburger, I did my best to eat all the things I know and Love in the great state of Texas.
how would you know or differentiate the vibration coming from the transmission or tailshaft or centre bearing. my car start to shudder from 0-10mph
Sorry, did I miss something? I was inj the car revving / stationary driving it but then he said that is all he has got for now. So what did he identify at that point? Nothing was shown. ??
Guess you missed it.
Oh man my uncle Steve's old wagon haha! That is awesome!
any opinion on just rotating the driveshaft 180 degrees and reinstalling into the u-joint? I've seen that idea in many places.
+dennis g Well, we thought about that, and it can make a difference. But we are .030 out and the cups are well planted. It is a definite option when dealing with these sorts of things.
You mention a driveshaft shop you guys use near you in Aiken SC, i'm in Augusta and looking for a second shop to verify my driveshaft is actually balanced correctly. Do you have a recommendation?
Master Fabricators is who we use.
Would it have been safer and more accurate to remove both rear wheels when testing for driveshaft vibration? Just my 2c. Nice video, thanks.
Maybe. But sometimes the vibration can only be felt under load.
So much simpler to use tri-axial accelerometers and a speed reference. Simple math for amplitude and frequency and bingo, U B in the ball park.
Great tip!
I looked through your videos and wasn’t 100% sure, but was it due to the tires as well as driveline angle? Thank you and really enjoy your videos
It was the driveshaft.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks for the reply and really appreciate your channel
Those TAs will slip belts driving or even if they're parked for a couple months without moving. I've had such poor service I avoid them.
A shifter vibration was finally cured by a weight under the tailshaft... A la old Ford transmissions.... They're a bunch of different ones.
Ever notice the NVR weights under cars like Fox differentials, etc. Crown Vic exhaust pipes etc.
I've had good service out of my T/As unless I abuse them (open track will do that). The weight is a good idea. Mostly our problem is due to the car being lowered, thus causing a driveline misalignment.
Since we are going all grammar hound (your other post in regards to "install") it should be there are as opposed to they'er which is a contraction of they are. 😁😁😁
Screw in U-joint..coulda been for grease fitting??? Ya never know, ya know.
I’m pretty sure every old rear axle is going to have a bit of play, I can’t see how there can’t be play even with new bearings. It’s not a precise fit.