Been painting for 23 years now and I’ve been painting doors with a wizzy for long time. I like to use the 4 inch micro fiber covers because they don’t leave little naps. Just here and there just pick them off. I do all residential painting. My customers are always happy when I’m done. Good job.
I'm a union painter , we take a break when the door is half done.😁 A half inch thick nap is too much, 3/8 at the most or even a quarter of an inch will leave a very smooth finish. If you can't spray a door rolling it is much faster than brushing it.
That 1/2” nap is a joke. Frankly, I also use 3/8” on walls and ceilings on regular drywall repaints unless the surfaces are really rough for some reason. Takes a little more time, but I have a sample board that I show my clients and regularly get premium prices and win jobs against companies with much lower bids.
I agree that there is no need to be rude, but this guy has put up a video showing how to paint doors, which novices will follow and they will end up with a very poor job. This is no way to paint doors. Good water-based paints, such as Mythic, and good quality brushes, such as Purdy, Wooster, etc and proper technique will produce a finish that has few, if any, brush marks. Plus work in a good light, not backlit by a window. My advice to anyone is to ignore this video.
Have you considered the fact that some people have worked very hard to complete an apprenticeship to the highest standard to achieve the status of Master Painter? Then this clueless amateur comes along and creates a video claiming to show how to paint a door when he has not even done the most basic prep by removing the furniture then give it a rub down and through clean to create a key for the paint and he is using the wrong roller sleeve which should be mohair. If that guy has completed an appernticeship I will eat my ass without sauce.
This guy has good technique for the DIY people and apartment painters. Painting doors like this would never be acceptable to high end customers or quality commercial projects.
That is so correct James! Do that technique on a flat finish door (no wood grain) and I would be embarrassed to hand that over to the home owner. Gotta be sprayed with a Fine Finish tip and high levelling paint
@@davecoles8818 If spraying isn't an option, at least use the high density foam rollers. Anything with nap is going to look terrible with any kind of light on the door. I do a lot cabinet painting, and a lot of times people won't let you spray in their house. Just take the doors back to the shop to spray and run all the boxes on site with the high density foam. Works like a charm
Guess you guy's are not good enough to use a mini roller!..As a 30yr journeyman painter who has done thousands of doors, old and new, it's not easy, but it is absolutely possible to get a smooth finish with the mini roller. The key is to be fast. The only thing I disagree with is sherwin Williams, they absolutely suck!! Unless you like spending $70 a gal on junk, use Benjamin Moore or Glidden!
Thanks for this, was doing the roller on the walls but just brushing paint on the doors in the hallways, well 7 doors and frames later, and 5 more to go, let's just say after an hour per coat per door, I'm happy to have found this video.
Amen Bubbah.... I was going to spray my front doors and you know what that means. Tape, cover paper, lots of prep and the finish product is only a weeee bit nicer. Moreover, the finish product (sprayed surface vs. stippled) is really only visible a few inches away from the surface for the “really” discerning eye. So..... thanks brother, you sold me on a nice plump roller. Cheers from Canada!
I roll the paint on too but then I use the brush, just lightly, to smooth out the stipples and create brush strokes. Works quickly and looks more professional.
And your full of hot air, the only way your going your going to paint that many doors in that short of time is to spray them. And remember it has to look good to. Any body can sling paint but not every body can paint quality,.
I have learned a long time ago to roll it on and then back brush it makes things so much quicker and with no overlap on a fake textured door also those pre-primed gray doors need 2 finish coats
Nice job. After you roll it on the door, you can take your brush and simply remove the stipple with a one-way stroke with a brush. This way, you get the speed of the roller, and the finish of a Purdy 3” sash brush. Also, use an “extender” in the paint in order to prevent the paint from drying around all those corners you’re painting. An extender helps you keep your wet edge you referred to. Nice work.
Do you use a dry brush, or is there paint on the brush when you use it to lay off? Also, do you use extender in Ben Moore Advance - or would that make it run too much? Thanks, Spencer!
Here in the uk I’m a new build house painter & over here we’re not allowed to just roll the doors & leave them due to the orange peel affect so we roll them & then lay it off with the brush for a better finish especially with the oil based Satin or Gloss finishes we use. Great video though. 👍🏻
Yea I’m 5 years late from the post date. But great video my friend. I’m a remodeling guy former painter and I’m doing doors and trim after installing all new in a condo and I brushed one door using a urethane trim enamel. Omg soooo slow. On basements which are my bread and butter jobs I usually spray all trim and doors. But no can do in this job. So I’ll be rolling and back brushing. Thanks for the video your the man! Dave Chicago 2022
I noticed throughout the 20yrs of my painting career everyone paints different. Better job on the door's than I have seen others attempt. Me personally I use a bigger brush 3" holds more paint and covers more surface. First I paint the edge of the doors. then open them up and set the door on two peices of wood to hold it off the floor. Helps keep roller from picking up trash. Then I use the roller on the face of the door because it is quicker. then tip it out with the 3" brush, for a couple of reasons. one it dose look good brushed , and on flat doors if you cut in around the knobs with the brush and roll the rest of the door u can actually see the different texture between the brush marks and the texture from the roller. Or take the knob off and roll the whole thing. But I still tip it out with brush being the brush covers better in the groves of the panel . And by brushing it you can go with the grain in the wood to make the door really stand out. Do it on the cheep cardboard doors also. helps give the look of a real wooden door.. Good job tho.. not knocking on your technique . Just sharing mine with you. Yea you are right about having to do possible 3 coats on doors . Being they are making paint more environmental friendly witch is understandable but at the same time they are talking out all the goodies that makes paint what it used to be.
Good technique for a homeowner for speed. No professional should do this on a door with a simulated wood grain without back brushing it. This technique will always leave a noticeable texture. I would only recommend rolling flat doors.
Don't listen to the haters. This should be more than sufficient for the general population. You could make this as simple or complicated as you want but at the end of the day it comes down to what your client is willing to pay.
Don't recoat after 30mins like this guy said.. There's a reason you're meant to leave it for 6hrs. It might feel dry to the touch, but it won't have cured/dried how it was intended. Give it the full drying time, it will give you a tougher/longer-lasting paint job.
You got my vote bro, you pay attention to detail....subscribed! Will definitely watch more of your videos. would like to see a video of you using the control pro 130. You guys make a great team.
There are a huge number of ways to paint most things depending on your priorities. I find it interesting to watch people who are focused on productivity and others who are focused on the perfect finish. You can learn from both approaches.
Yeah, I frequently focus on perfection and boy does it get overwhelming. This kind of approach can sometimes lead to procrastination, which in my case, it has on many occasions. I'm working on it :)
@@jordanxfile absolutely! I have the same problem, it is like psychological torture to focus on perfection especially when you are a newbie! So, you end up debating, guilting over it and time, and that work keeps poking out, and procrastination like it can drive someone crazy. Best is I realised, if a person is new to it, just to go for it after watching enough and be practical.
I think a balance of the two is best. So whipping round doors with the right roller is WAY faster, but if you or the client wants a brushed look simple lay it off with a brush after rolling
THANKYOU!! I did 7 doors via ur instructions and they turned out perfect!!! Only problem is my sister now wants me to do her doors lol I told her to watch this.
it takes me some 3 hours to paint a single door using a brush, this is including taping off the hinges, door knobs, carpet protection etc (since i am not a professional and i am doing the doors for my mother in law she doesnt let me take them out of the frame) and cleaning up afterwards....ive only done 4 doors so far and got 19 left to go for the house....so i think i am gonna use this method from now on haha
I been painting for 30 yrs done 1000's of doors, that door dust it off with dust brush or vac. Brush the picture frame recesses and roll the flats with a 3/16-1/4 nap 9" to avoid any lines that a 4" roller tends to leave and give it a second coat and your done10 mins or less a door
I would love to find a contract painter like you to paint the inside of my home. You definitely seem as if you really do care about the job quality you do, not many do unfortunately that’s why I usually end up painting it myself lol.. I’m to OCD though so it takes me foreverrrrr .. thank you for a great detailed video..
If you don't mind having a roller-textured finish on your door, this is a real time saver. But when I work on my own home, I don't want it to look like ti was painted by a guy whose only goal was to go home early. For a quality look, you really need to brush out the paint after you apply it with the roller.
Using a 1/4 nap roller and a little bit of Flotrol in your paint will make your doors come out looking like a sprayed finish and give more open time to keep a wet edge. 👍
Personally I prefer a brushed door and a matte finish, but I work for someone who insists we roll the doors. My issue is I find those mini rollers tend to lock up and slide along the door rather than roll.
Finally, this is what I was hoping to find. Nice, easy and rolled. I only have foam rollers. Now, I’m going to look for if or how to load the roller. I’m more of a furniture painter so I can use water on my brushes and surfaces. It’s a different paint with a similar technique. Thanks a lot! 💯
Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate how to methodically paint a door. You make the task appear easier than it is. Would you consider demonstrating how to be just as methodical and efficient in painting an exterior of a craftsman or Victorian house, with the multiple colors of the siding, trim, and accent(s)? Keep up the good work.
I use a roller on all doors have done for years, if the client wants a brush finish, roll it on and i call it 'laying off', use the brush after rolling on to brush out the stipple and boom door complete! Enjoy your painting people!
It irritates me when a painter won’t take hardware off or electrical plates off. I had a painter ruin well over $800 in Thermostats, in a building,. All he had to do was call me and I would have pulled, covered and stood them off from the wall. Also he painted around the Thermostat Lock Boxes in another building, looked like crap.
Ever hear of a paint scraper idiot? Paint on Thermostats are always fixable if you aren’t a complete baffoon and arrogant pompous a$$ like you appear to be. Paint your projects yourself next time LOSER
Hahaha. Your communication with the camera person is so human. Checking in case she started day dreaming while you are doing the hard work. But she is on board all the way through. Nice video. Xx
you can apply the paint in small sections with the roller, then come back with your brush and go over it, if the door has embossed wood grain, it will help hide the brush marks. Flotrol added to the paint helps too. You have great painting skills, Your video skills need major improving!
Weird seeing so many for brushed look, I personally like rolled with good paint. Clean well, heavy coat, light sanding and another coat. With practice it's easy to avoid roller marks and drips.
Your right Arthur, you paint a door as its built, moulds and panels, rails and then styles, if your doors open inwards showing the edge do that opening end first. and that is from an old wood grainer .
That's the way I've done it, and I've been doing it for over 30 years! If it's a rental, and the owner just wants it done quick you can spray, or roll the piss out of them!
I'm a homeowner, have done my own painting for years, and it's always turned out pretty well. Have never used Sherwin-Williams paint;. Just used medium-priced ones at Home Depot. Hearing so much lately about Sherwin-Williams paint though that I'm considering trying it because maybe I'd get a MUCH BETTER result. "Looks fine" has always been enough for me, but maybe I would get a "looks great" result ....? Might give it a try and see..... (I know it's more expensive, but still....).
If you want a great result make sure you spread the paint evenly and do multiple coats. Always sand the entire door and any imperfections out before painting, this includes new doors or trim of any kind. Read the paint manufacturers instructions for recoat times and make sure its a product brush and roller friendly. Some trim paint dries too quickly and is made specifically for spraying. Any other questions id be happy to answer
I know this was a year ago, but if you wouldn’t mind, what did he do wrong? Think of it this way though too, he’s not giving away all your trade skills. 😁
I would use a larger roller and then run a high quality brush lightly over the rolled paint to create the desired brush stroke marks. It does not add much additional time to the job, but creates a much more professional result.
A few comments if I may, hope it helps someone: 1. I'd sand the factory primer and use my own, quality primer. Factory primers are notoriously poor quality. 2. I'd remove the door knobs 3. With water based enamel, I think the only acceptable finish is brushing. Or spraying if that's an option. 4. You really shouldn't be recoating that soon, why the rush? 5. Painting is Sooo much about patience. Forget about cutting corners and saving time, just do the job properly, no matter how long it takes. And of course, charge accordingly.
I am stripping my door frames and doors of their years of gloss from other tenants. If I sand it all down, then fine sand. Then 1 coat of primer/undercoat and then 2 coats of satinwood,. will that be ok and a good job?
Factory primers are bad but almost zero customers will pay you to sand down a new door. Secondly, those cup style handles are often glued into place. But I'm guessing you'd know that since you're such an expert.
Yes. Rolling with a hot dog Roller is much faster than brushing. Those factory primed doors really take a lot of work. Did 2 coats with brush and looked bad. Rolled 3rd coat and came out more crisp.
Great and simple video! Small piece of advice, place your paint tray on a platform so you don't have a sore back at the end! Also sit on a small step stool or something when painting lower parts of the door. I should know, I'm a chiropractor!
Do you have a favorite brush brand model for doors to erase the little nappy spikes? My nylon brush I bought at home depot leaves steaks. I'm on my 3rd brush and I dont' like the way brushes leave streaks
I like to use a Wooster Woven 1/2 in. on a 6" Mini Roller to get the door coated then go back over it with a 2-1/2" Synthetic Soft bristle brush and it should lay down nice and smooth. Nylon brushes tend to drag their way through the paint which leads to streaks. Give it a try.@@JDoe-hb7pc
Painting doors ,door frames, arcotrives and likes is best done where possible with a "Foam" roller. I use 4" rollers where I can but also cut these down to around 1.5" for smaller detail work ( cut down a 4" with about scalpel about 1.5" from where the roller shaft is inserted then saw off the plastic spindle to achieve a lovely detail roller. You will also need to saw down the roller handle shaft to suit.) this is absolutely perfect for skirting boards etc. The roller this chap is using is more akin to painting emulsion paint and wont give that smooth sprayed look. When painting with a foam roller dont overload the roller with paint for a lovely finnish otherwise it risks generating too many tiny bubbles. You will always need brushes for cutting in or those other awkward spots but always always use foam rollers. Once you have used foam rollers you will never go back to brushes unless the product (suck as Sikkens colour stains) and even then you can still apply with a foam roller but use a large brush to lay it off.
I think the critiques stem from the fact that the surface looks terrible with bubbles and streaks. Maybe the camera brings out more than the painter sees since he doesn't have good lighting? Liked the video, thanks.
First off this guy using way to much paint on his roller, besides using the wrong roller. Just gets down to what you looking for quality or speed- they usually dont go hand and hand. Treat the product like it going to be in your house and you will be looking at it for days to come. That will usually get ya straight.
I don't care for a stippled look on doors, so for a fast, excellent uniform coverage, brushed look, I like to use paint pads for doors -- much better and faster than rollers in my opinion. Special angled ones are available that will get into corners and around the panels well too.
If you do it quickly you can lay the paint of with a brash. Making sure there is paint on the bottom and top of the door will prevent any warping. i' have been painting for 50 years. I can paint your house or clear coat your car . I can hang commercial vinyl or foil in your kitchen. Texture your ceiling or build you a rec room. plaster repairs or finish wood both by brush or spray. match colors and stains. Grain your wood with combs or install gold leaf. Want to make 75,000 a year learn the trade.
Have you ever used the 4” black foam roller for doors and millwork? It has a concave end and is advertised as being able to paint into corners and eliminate lap marks. Just thinking about going painting with it.
The stipple texture of a roller isn't my favorite final finish. Even foam rollers labled for "cabinets" stipple but worst they slip and slide over the smooth surface so I sometimes I lay down the paint with a nap roller first then tip it off with a fine sash brush. Wooster has one labled for high gloss that isn't as thick a brush, has longer bristles that just feathers the tip of the paint suface decreasing stipple texturing.
If the door is factory primed and you use a high quality urethane paint designed for wood, trim and doors a smooth roller can provide good results. Just work fast and don’t go over it too much and the paint will level out fairly smooth. Let the paint dry at least 24hrs before you apply a second coat. Make sure you work fast and finish one side at a time before the paint closes up. If you work too slow with a brush the paint will get tacky or gummy and you will get a horrible finish. You can use a soft brush to remove excess paint or small drips if the paint is not tacky. If it's still wet it will level out fine.
It looks ok from far, as we can't see how the paint looks from very close. Are there any visible strokes, or small grains or dust dots, or any unevenness!?
Sorry this is a short cut. There are no short cuts. Use a quality brush and lay the paint on following the rails and stiles. If you roll the paint on you lose all the fine details in the door. The worst part of this technique is when you have to repaint in a few years at which point the next paint job will cover any detail in the door.
I personally don't like rolled doors. Too much paint covers the grain and craftsmanship of the door. I love using a quality brush and doing panels, rails etc at a time for an amazing finish. Guess everyone has their way what works best
Bobby Tre Painting - Bobby, thanks for this video. Painting my door a custom a pantone color. It's supposed to have primer and paint together. . Should I prime anyway? (It's 'only' the door that leads into the garage and of course the other side of the door. . Should I use 80/220 sand paper and sand it? Thanks if you're able to reply! If you can't no worries.
Stipple always looks bad you roll on the paint and then you take an almost dry brush and just brush stroke the door to give it a true finished look have fun
Oil paint 1- 2 cups Natural brush Gloves & lint free rag Tray (not bucket) Proper Mask & eye protection A Little thinner 1-2 caps, stir paint well, slowly. add thinner, stir well again slowly. (No air bubbles) Drop cloth or cardboard under door Cross ventilation w/ fan. Lightly sand #220 Then tack cloth. Do the cut in + edges Paint from top down. Top coat if needed. Start early to allow dry time. Prop door open 2 - 4hrs when done Vaseline door seal to prevent sticking when shut. (1st 48 hrs) Keep area ventilated first 24 hrs (slow fan in window over night) If this seems much know you will only paint it for 2hrs in 10 yrs, but you get to enjoy it for 3,650 days. It not just a door, it's your home 👷🖌🚪 Door will cure in 3-5 days. Do not add stickers, signage, curtains, appliques, magnets or handle roughly for one week. Love yuuu all. 😊
Dr. Adel Serag certainly not a sponge. Although it leaves a great finish it wont apply enough paint. Will have to do numerous coats and will take a long time. 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch mini roller will do the trick
Most decent paint doesn't leave much of a stipple these days because the paint (for the most part) is formulated to level itself fairly well. I will try this all roller method next because it seems efficient to me. I guess the fact that you are using a brush with a nap rather than one of the foam brushes that companies for some reason recommend has a lot to do with being able to get the coverage on the panels. I also have to add that some of these viewers must have anger issues!! Dang!
Judi Foster Judi, thanks for maintaining calm lol. The problem with most modern paint, is that it is low or even zero voc and dries VERY fast. This particular product doesn’t seem to suffer from this ailment and also looks great. This application method is fast when you are really trying to “bang out” some doors. And for minimal expense. Those that insist they would spray aren’t mentioning the clean up or expense of the machine. Plus, they have to mask off entire rooms to do their work. Incorporate that time and expense and you can see how foolish they are.
Bobby Tre Painting I like this thread right here. It's a smart thread. Yeah, obviously those "spray the door" guys don't do repaints very often. Customers HATE using their driveways or patios as spray booths.
If its a flat door like this one it will definitely have stimples, especially with a 1/2" nap. This technique works fine on doors with the fake wood grain though. Other than that use a brush for trim part and a 1/4" mohair or velour roller for flat areas.
Been painting for 23 years now and I’ve been painting doors with a wizzy for long time. I like to use the 4 inch micro fiber covers because they don’t leave little naps. Just here and there just pick them off. I do all residential painting. My customers are always happy when I’m done. Good job.
You can get a brushed effect by rollering first and then brushing it out just after. Best of both worlds!
You go right ahead with all that !
I'm a union painter , we take a break when the door is half done.😁 A half inch thick nap is too much, 3/8 at the most or even a quarter of an inch will leave a very smooth finish. If you can't spray a door rolling it is much faster than brushing it.
That 1/2” nap is a joke. Frankly, I also use 3/8” on walls and ceilings on regular drywall repaints unless the surfaces are really rough for some reason. Takes a little more time, but I have a sample board that I show my clients and regularly get premium prices and win jobs against companies with much lower bids.
Painted the shit out of all the house doors with this method and worked more than adequate not to mention very quick.
Cheers
How did shit get inside your doors?
AMD1 I literally 🤣
Use a fan, it dries, without brush strokes
Why are people so rude when they comment? What's the point? Life is tough. Don't make it worse for someone else. Scheesh.
I agree that there is no need to be rude, but this guy has put up a video showing how to paint doors, which novices will follow and they will end up with a very poor job. This is no way to paint doors. Good water-based paints, such as Mythic, and good quality brushes, such as Purdy, Wooster, etc and proper technique will produce a finish that has few, if any, brush marks. Plus work in a good light, not backlit by a window. My advice to anyone is to ignore this video.
I like the fact that you said 'scheesh'! :)
Have you considered the fact that some people have worked very hard to complete an apprenticeship to the highest standard to achieve the status of Master Painter?
Then this clueless amateur comes along and creates a video claiming to show how to paint a door when he has not even done the most basic prep by removing the furniture then give it a rub down and through clean to create a key for the paint and he is using the wrong roller sleeve which should be mohair. If that guy has completed an appernticeship I will eat my ass without sauce.
@ parttimetourist so true he didn't even key it down. How to give the profession a bad name. @Bobby Tre Painting quit your day job.
@@terencedavis4141 copenhagen is the best brush, i usealy put on pant with rollen and after finish with brush much faster an better result
I love how real this video is...thanks for the lesson hope my door painting project goes smoothly
House Painting techniques are so important, amazing, love what your doing. Important to know when maintaining your home.
I roll the paint on too but then I use the brush, just lightly, to smooth out the stipples and create brush strokes. Works and looks great.
This guy has good technique for the DIY people and apartment painters. Painting doors like this would never be acceptable to high end customers or quality commercial projects.
That is so correct James! Do that technique on a flat finish door (no wood grain) and I would be embarrassed to hand that over to the home owner. Gotta be sprayed with a Fine Finish tip and high levelling paint
@@davecoles8818 If spraying isn't an option, at least use the high density foam rollers. Anything with nap is going to look terrible with any kind of light on the door. I do a lot cabinet painting, and a lot of times people won't let you spray in their house. Just take the doors back to the shop to spray and run all the boxes on site with the high density foam. Works like a charm
Agreed.
Thats basically what he said himself 🤔
Guess you guy's are not good enough to use a mini roller!..As a 30yr journeyman painter who has done thousands of doors, old and new, it's not easy, but it is absolutely possible to get a smooth finish with the mini roller. The key is to be fast. The only thing I disagree with is sherwin Williams, they absolutely suck!!
Unless you like spending $70 a gal on junk, use Benjamin Moore or Glidden!
Thanks for this, was doing the roller on the walls but just brushing paint on the doors in the hallways, well 7 doors and frames later, and 5 more to go, let's just say after an hour per coat per door, I'm happy to have found this video.
Amen Bubbah.... I was going to spray my front doors and you know what that means. Tape, cover paper, lots of prep and the finish product is only a weeee bit nicer. Moreover, the finish product (sprayed surface vs. stippled) is really only visible a few inches away from the surface for the “really” discerning eye. So..... thanks brother, you sold me on a nice plump roller. Cheers from Canada!
I roll the paint on too but then I use the brush, just lightly, to smooth out the stipples and create brush strokes. Works quickly and looks more professional.
I painted 24 doors in 19 minutes for a blind client using this method...he was delighted.
And your full of hot air, the only way your going your going to paint that many doors in that short of time is to spray them. And remember it has to look good to. Any body can sling paint but not every body can paint quality,.
That’s too funny.....
@@paulhughes3961 I think @Dicey R was being facetious. The blind client was the biggest give away ......
@@paulhughes3961 it was a joke. Punchline is customer was blind. When your blind you can’t see shoddy work nor even tell if doors were painted.
I couldn’t sell brush or roll on doors. Must be sprayed.
Bobby, you are one handsome painter! Thanks for the painting tips.
Why are you making gay comments on this guy's painting video? Oh boy... what the world is coming to...
I have learned a long time ago to roll it on and then back brush it makes things so much quicker and with no overlap on a fake textured door also those pre-primed gray doors need 2 finish coats
Nice job. After you roll it on the door, you can take your brush and simply remove the stipple with a one-way stroke with a brush. This way, you get the speed of the roller, and the finish of a Purdy 3” sash brush.
Also, use an “extender” in the paint in order to prevent the paint from drying around all those corners you’re painting. An extender helps you keep your wet edge you referred to.
Nice work.
Mike Bell
Because a sash brush gets into the corners really quickly.
Do you use a dry brush, or is there paint on the brush when you use it to lay off? Also, do you use extender in Ben Moore Advance - or would that make it run too much? Thanks, Spencer!
Here in the uk I’m a new build house painter & over here we’re not allowed to just roll the doors & leave them due to the orange peel affect so we roll them & then lay it off with the brush for a better finish especially with the oil based Satin or Gloss finishes we use.
Great video though. 👍🏻
Nice vid bro . Respect from an Aussie painter !
Nice to see a professional who knows component door parts ‘styles, rails etc’
But this pro is using the wrong roller cover
Yea I’m 5 years late from the post date. But great video my friend. I’m a remodeling guy former painter and I’m doing doors and trim after installing all new in a condo and I brushed one door using a urethane trim enamel. Omg soooo slow. On basements which are my bread and butter jobs I usually spray all trim and doors. But no can do in this job. So I’ll be rolling and back brushing. Thanks for the video your the man!
Dave Chicago 2022
We used to do this and then another go behind with a brush and brush out the stipple.
I noticed throughout the 20yrs of my painting career everyone paints different. Better job on the door's than I have seen others attempt. Me personally I use a bigger brush 3" holds more paint and covers more surface. First I paint the edge of the doors. then open them up and set the door on two peices of wood to hold it off the floor. Helps keep roller from picking up trash. Then I use the roller on the face of the door because it is quicker. then tip it out with the 3" brush, for a couple of reasons. one it dose look good brushed , and on flat doors if you cut in around the knobs with the brush and roll the rest of the door u can actually see the different texture between the brush marks and the texture from the roller. Or take the knob off and roll the whole thing. But I still tip it out with brush being the brush covers better in the groves of the panel . And by brushing it you can go with the grain in the wood to make the door really stand out. Do it on the cheep cardboard doors also. helps give the look of a real wooden door.. Good job tho.. not knocking on your technique . Just sharing mine with you. Yea you are right about having to do possible 3 coats on doors . Being they are making paint more environmental friendly witch is understandable but at the same time they are talking out all the goodies that makes paint what it used to be.
Good technique for a homeowner for speed. No professional should do this on a door with a simulated wood grain without back brushing it. This technique will always leave a noticeable texture. I would only recommend rolling flat doors.
Don't listen to the haters. This should be more than sufficient for the general population. You could make this as simple or complicated as you want but at the end of the day it comes down to what your client is willing to pay.
Don't recoat after 30mins like this guy said.. There's a reason you're meant to leave it for 6hrs. It might feel dry to the touch, but it won't have cured/dried how it was intended. Give it the full drying time, it will give you a tougher/longer-lasting paint job.
What is the full drying time? 12 hours , 24 hours? Just wondering as I have never painted doors before and have 8 interior doors to paint this week.
@@Noreligionheredepends on the paint , most water based 1-4 hrs or zinsser is 1 hour oil based much longer 12-16 hrs between coats
You got my vote bro, you pay attention to detail....subscribed! Will definitely watch more of your videos. would like to see a video of you using the control pro 130. You guys make a great team.
Thanks for posting I use this method at home but I lay the paint off with a dry brush afterwards you don't get the stipple effect and its still quick
First of all after you paint the door once you should sand it between coats. So you can get a smooth finish.
There are a huge number of ways to paint most things depending on your priorities. I find it interesting to watch people who are focused on productivity and others who are focused on the perfect finish. You can learn from both approaches.
Yeah, I frequently focus on perfection and boy does it get overwhelming. This kind of approach can sometimes lead to procrastination, which in my case, it has on many occasions. I'm working on it :)
Best advice on here
because time is money
@@jordanxfile absolutely! I have the same problem, it is like psychological torture to focus on perfection especially when you are a newbie! So, you end up debating, guilting over it and time, and that work keeps poking out, and procrastination like it can drive someone crazy. Best is I realised, if a person is new to it, just to go for it after watching enough and be practical.
I think a balance of the two is best. So whipping round doors with the right roller is WAY faster, but if you or the client wants a brushed look simple lay it off with a brush after rolling
That’s the best door painting tricks you’re doing now teaching….. thank you🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍
THANKYOU!! I did 7 doors via ur instructions and they turned out perfect!!! Only problem is my sister now wants me to do her doors lol I told her to watch this.
Jane Gilmore lol good job Jane.
This guy is an idiot plain and simple
Drew Anderson hater alert 🚨
@@leahanderson2367 no, he's great at what he does.
it takes me some 3 hours to paint a single door using a brush, this is including taping off the hinges, door knobs, carpet protection etc (since i am not a professional and i am doing the doors for my mother in law she doesnt let me take them out of the frame) and cleaning up afterwards....ive only done 4 doors so far and got 19 left to go for the house....so i think i am gonna use this method from now on haha
That's a whole lotta doors
Does she live in a castle
I been painting for 30 yrs done 1000's of doors, that door dust it off with dust brush or vac. Brush the picture frame recesses and roll the flats with a 3/16-1/4 nap 9" to avoid any lines that a 4" roller tends to leave and give it a second coat and your done10 mins or less a door
I loved his technique! It surely worked for me (and I am sure it worked for a ton of people too!)
Thank you!
I don't let a painter near any of my doors until I've taken the ironmongery off first.
I would love to find a contract painter like you to paint the inside of my home. You definitely seem as if you really do care about the job quality you do, not many do unfortunately that’s why I usually end up painting it myself lol.. I’m to OCD though so it takes me foreverrrrr .. thank you for a great detailed video..
@@isaactorres64 what happened to the other .3 of a star?
If you don't mind having a roller-textured finish on your door, this is a real time saver. But when I work on my own home, I don't want it to look like ti was painted by a guy whose only goal was to go home early. For a quality look, you really need to brush out the paint after you apply it with the roller.
Thank you for the details provided. It helps for those of us who don’t know. I wondered about a roller. Now I understand.
Using a 1/4 nap roller and a little bit of Flotrol in your paint will make your doors come out looking like a sprayed finish and give more open time to keep a wet edge. 👍
Now you really know your job.
Flotrol, a product that should be used more often!
High density foam roller over any nap roller. The finish is so much better especially if your using penetrol/flotrol
i like these home made video's where a loved one is recording, good job from UK
This dude can paint anything he wants in my house.
haha man--so many funny quotes in this one. gems such as "Doors are one of the trickiest things to do as a painter... 'cause they gotta look good."
Personally I prefer a brushed door and a matte finish, but I work for someone who insists we roll the doors. My issue is I find those mini rollers tend to lock up and slide along the door rather than roll.
Me too...
Finally, this is what I was hoping to find. Nice, easy and rolled. I only have foam rollers. Now, I’m going to look for if or how to load the roller. I’m more of a furniture painter so I can use water on my brushes and surfaces. It’s a different paint with a similar technique. Thanks a lot! 💯
Thank you Bobby for showing this video example on painting it will help me go quicker.
Samuel Meservy any time. This is a great system if you use the right materials. Dont listen to the haters 😉
Amazing camera gal 😂! Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate how to methodically paint a door. You make the task appear easier than it is. Would you consider demonstrating how to be just as methodical and efficient in painting an exterior of a craftsman or Victorian house, with the multiple colors of the siding, trim, and accent(s)?
Keep up the good work.
I use a roller on all doors have done for years, if the client wants a brush finish, roll it on and i call it 'laying off', use the brush after rolling on to brush out the stipple and boom door complete! Enjoy your painting people!
Exactly what I do too! So much quicker!
It irritates me when a painter won’t take hardware off or electrical plates off. I had a painter ruin well over $800 in Thermostats, in a building,. All he had to do was call me and I would have pulled, covered and stood them off from the wall. Also he painted around the Thermostat Lock Boxes in another building, looked like crap.
Ever hear of a paint scraper idiot? Paint on Thermostats are always fixable if you aren’t a complete baffoon and arrogant pompous a$$ like you appear to be. Paint your projects yourself next time LOSER
Any pro who does half assed work is irritating
I cover things with roller and then make fast long brush strokes over the fresh paint to give classic look. Best from both worlds.
Like this
Hahaha. Your communication with the camera person is so human. Checking in case she started day dreaming while you are doing the hard work. But she is on board all the way through. Nice video. Xx
What are you using for paint? It looks like you have a white china bristle brush in your tray. Are you using oil? Don't see that much anymore.
You can always lay the paint on with the wizzy and brush it out. That's the best way IMO. Spraying is ideal
Thanks for this great video. You just saved me a bunch of time on painting my door.
been painting for 40 years and still use a brush on doors,nothing to beat the old fashioned proper way
That roller held a lot of paint and the paint was smooth. Nice job. Yes, watch for the corner drip - after you think you are done!
you can apply the paint in small sections with the roller, then come back with your brush and go over it, if the door has embossed wood grain, it will help hide the brush marks. Flotrol added to the paint helps too. You have great painting skills, Your video skills need major improving!
Never film with lighting behind you. (Standing in front of a window)
Weird seeing so many for brushed look, I personally like rolled with good paint. Clean well, heavy coat, light sanding and another coat. With practice it's easy to avoid roller marks and drips.
Lay it off with the brush as your working, Paint the panels first then the rails and the stiles last, Especially with 8 ft doors
Your right Arthur, you paint a door as its built, moulds and panels, rails and then styles, if your doors open inwards showing the edge do that opening end first. and that is from an old wood grainer .
Yep in the UK we always lay it off with a brush. well proper trade painters anyway😁
That's the way I've done it, and I've been doing it for over 30 years! If it's a rental, and the owner just wants it done quick you can spray, or roll the piss out of them!
Agreed I always lay off as I go
Spray the doors whenever possible finish is way better and way faster
I'm a homeowner, have done my own painting for years, and it's always turned out pretty well. Have never used Sherwin-Williams paint;. Just used medium-priced ones at Home Depot. Hearing so much lately about Sherwin-Williams paint though that I'm considering trying it because maybe I'd get a MUCH BETTER result. "Looks fine" has always been enough for me, but maybe I would get a "looks great" result ....? Might give it a try and see..... (I know it's more expensive, but still....).
If you want a great result make sure you spread the paint evenly and do multiple coats. Always sand the entire door and any imperfections out before painting, this includes new doors or trim of any kind. Read the paint manufacturers instructions for recoat times and make sure its a product brush and roller friendly. Some trim paint dries too quickly and is made specifically for spraying. Any other questions id be happy to answer
people watch these videos to learn how to do something, it's our responsibility to teach them how. the right way.
I know this was a year ago, but if you wouldn’t mind, what did he do wrong? Think of it this way though too, he’s not giving away all your trade skills. 😁
I would use a larger roller and then run a high quality brush lightly over the rolled paint to create the desired brush stroke marks. It does not add much additional time to the job, but creates a much more professional result.
A few comments if I may, hope it helps someone:
1. I'd sand the factory primer and use my own, quality primer. Factory primers are notoriously poor quality.
2. I'd remove the door knobs
3. With water based enamel, I think the only acceptable finish is brushing. Or spraying if that's an option.
4. You really shouldn't be recoating that soon, why the rush?
5. Painting is Sooo much about patience. Forget about cutting corners and saving time, just do the job properly, no matter how long it takes. And of course, charge accordingly.
I'd hire YOU to paint MY house.
I am stripping my door frames and doors of their years of gloss from other tenants. If I sand it all down, then fine sand. Then 1 coat of primer/undercoat and then 2 coats of satinwood,. will that be ok and a good job?
Factory primers are bad but almost zero customers will pay you to sand down a new door. Secondly, those cup style handles are often glued into place. But I'm guessing you'd know that since you're such an expert.
Yes. Rolling with a hot dog Roller is much faster than brushing. Those factory primed doors really take a lot of work. Did 2 coats with brush and looked bad. Rolled 3rd coat and came out more crisp.
Great and simple video! Small piece of advice, place your paint tray on a platform so you don't have a sore back at the end! Also sit on a small step stool or something when painting lower parts of the door. I should know, I'm a chiropractor!
Dr. Behjat Syed have you ever knocked a pan off of a step spool before? It isnt pretty.Any suggestions on how to save my knees? Lol
Shawn V Get some good knee pads. Worth every dime. Don’t risk the health of your knees
Chiropractics has been a life saver for me! Thank goodness. I will also heed your advice! Thanks
You are a CHIRO-PAINTER..
Yah, physiotherapy is much more effective!
Good job. I really like those small rollers. I use them all the time.
If you want a brush finish you can roll them out and back brush them. It's not that big a deal.
Do you have a favorite brush brand model for doors to erase the little nappy spikes? My nylon brush I bought at home depot leaves steaks. I'm on my 3rd brush and I dont' like the way brushes leave streaks
I like to use a Wooster Woven 1/2 in. on a 6" Mini Roller to get the door coated then go back over it with a 2-1/2" Synthetic Soft bristle brush and it should lay down nice and smooth. Nylon brushes tend to drag their way through the paint which leads to streaks. Give it a try.@@JDoe-hb7pc
@@richmaxwell2263 i use purdy 3-4 inch for those that lasted me longer than wooster ones
Good job. You make it look easy
Great description of how to paint a door.I,m retired journeyman of 40+ yrs. Exactly how i,d have done it.
Painting doors ,door frames, arcotrives and likes is best done where possible with a "Foam" roller. I use 4" rollers where I can but also cut these down to around 1.5" for smaller detail work ( cut down a 4" with about scalpel about 1.5" from where the roller shaft is inserted then saw off the plastic spindle to achieve a lovely detail roller. You will also need to saw down the roller handle shaft to suit.) this is absolutely perfect for skirting boards etc. The roller this chap is using is more akin to painting emulsion paint and wont give that smooth sprayed look. When painting with a foam roller dont overload the roller with paint for a lovely finnish otherwise it risks generating too many tiny bubbles. You will always need brushes for cutting in or those other awkward spots but always always use foam rollers. Once you have used foam rollers you will never go back to brushes unless the product (suck as Sikkens colour stains) and even then you can still apply with a foam roller but use a large brush to lay it off.
There are many ways to paint. Your technique is good. I don’t understand the negative comments.
Gary Sager Thanks Gary I couldn’t agree more. I’ve never had a complaint with this method and this paint. Proceed with confidence.
They didnt learn that way so it's "wrong"
IMO tberes a time and place for for all applicable techniques
not much to understand, insecure assholes are everywhere
I think the critiques stem from the fact that the surface looks terrible with bubbles and streaks. Maybe the camera brings out more than the painter sees since he doesn't have good lighting? Liked the video, thanks.
First off this guy using way to much paint on his roller, besides using the wrong roller. Just gets down to what you looking for quality or speed- they usually dont go hand and hand. Treat the product like it going to be in your house and you will be looking at it for days to come. That will usually get ya straight.
I don't care for a stippled look on doors, so for a fast, excellent uniform coverage, brushed look, I like to use paint pads for doors -- much better and faster than rollers in my opinion. Special angled ones are available that will get into corners and around the panels well too.
You know what I do I roll it then brush it fast! Looks great every time! Also don’t use a 1/2 nap and use pro classic! Works great!
try first brush then roll ìt looks better. exept if you lie the brush strokes efect
Thanks for this awesome video! My wife used one of these small rollers for the inside of our kitchen cupboards and now I’ll do the same for our doors!
I believe to me painting is like a marathon not a sprint, so I take my time to do it carefully and well.
If you do it quickly you can lay the paint of with a brash. Making sure there is paint on the bottom and top of the door will prevent any warping. i' have been painting for 50 years. I can paint your house or clear coat your car . I can hang commercial vinyl or foil in your kitchen. Texture your ceiling or build you a rec room. plaster repairs or finish wood both by brush or spray. match colors and stains. Grain your wood with combs or install gold leaf. Want to make 75,000 a year learn the trade.
This 4" whiz roller is my absolute favourite, it is great on corners too.......use this on every paint job.....❤️👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💩❤️
Have you ever used the 4” black foam roller for doors and millwork? It has a concave end and is advertised as being able to paint into corners and eliminate lap marks. Just thinking about going painting with it.
Thank you ! I just bought a home and this answered many of my questions. I very much appreciate this particular well understood video. !
The stipple texture of a roller isn't my favorite final finish. Even foam rollers labled for "cabinets" stipple but worst they slip and slide over the smooth surface so I sometimes I lay down the paint with a nap roller first then tip it off with a fine sash brush. Wooster has one labled for high gloss that isn't as thick a brush, has longer bristles that just feathers the tip of the paint suface decreasing stipple texturing.
I just like watching other people work. Just kiddin...great vid my friend!
Flo me too 😉
Use foam rollers. You want to keep just the grain of foor there, you don’t want to add the texture of that roller.
Here in Aus on new work we spray (1st coat 15 doors 15mins) then light rub and brush and roll gloss enamel finish coat.
If the door is factory primed and you use a high quality urethane paint designed for wood, trim and doors a smooth roller can provide good results. Just work fast and don’t go over it too much and the paint will level out fairly smooth. Let the paint dry at least 24hrs before you apply a second coat. Make sure you work fast and finish one side at a time before the paint closes up. If you work too slow with a brush the paint will get tacky or gummy and you will get a horrible finish. You can use a soft brush to remove excess paint or small drips if the paint is not tacky. If it's still wet it will level out fine.
I recoat SW Emerald in an hour or so , no problem
It looks ok from far, as we can't see how the paint looks from very close. Are there any visible strokes, or small grains or dust dots, or any unevenness!?
Sorry this is a short cut. There are no short cuts. Use a quality brush and lay the paint on following the rails and stiles. If you roll the paint on you lose all the fine details in the door. The worst part of this technique is when you have to repaint in a few years at which point the next paint job will cover any detail in the door.
I personally don't like rolled doors. Too much paint covers the grain and craftsmanship of the door. I love using a quality brush and doing panels, rails etc at a time for an amazing finish. Guess everyone has their way what works best
Bobby Tre Painting - Bobby, thanks for this video.
Painting my door a custom a pantone color. It's supposed to have primer and paint together.
. Should I prime anyway? (It's 'only' the door that leads into the garage and of course the other side of the door.
. Should I use 80/220 sand paper and sand it?
Thanks if you're able to reply! If you can't no worries.
Stipple always looks bad you roll on the paint and then you take an almost dry brush and just brush stroke the door to give it a true finished look have fun
Oil paint 1- 2 cups
Natural brush
Gloves & lint free rag
Tray (not bucket)
Proper Mask & eye protection
A Little thinner 1-2 caps, stir paint well, slowly. add thinner, stir well again slowly.
(No air bubbles)
Drop cloth or cardboard under door
Cross ventilation w/ fan.
Lightly sand #220
Then tack cloth.
Do the cut in + edges
Paint from top down.
Top coat if needed.
Start early to allow dry time. Prop door open 2 - 4hrs when done
Vaseline door seal to prevent sticking when shut. (1st 48 hrs)
Keep area ventilated first 24 hrs (slow fan in window over night)
If this seems much know you will only paint it for 2hrs in 10 yrs, but you get to enjoy it for 3,650 days.
It not just a door,
it's your home 👷🖌🚪
Door will cure in 3-5 days. Do not add stickers, signage, curtains, appliques, magnets or handle roughly for one week.
Love yuuu all. 😊
Cool man lol Thanks for the effort :) Take the door handles off, it's easier and better finish.
Do you always wear your wool outdoor cap when painting?
or you could spray like 40 in one shot if you have the room
Thank you for your opinion and wisdom.
Cool stuffing
☀️☀️☀️
Thanks; good video & helpful as I'm doing doors now!
Kayinfso Here y
Mon petit lapin
Kayinfso Here how did your doors turn out?!
AWESOME COUPLE AND PAINT JOB!
Recomendation in my feed is timely. Thank you
if you use the Bennett micro fiber 4in sleeves your door will look so smooth almost like a spray finish.
I prefer rolling sections then brushing over each area for a "brushed" look.
I hate roller marks on wood! Looks too cheap
With patience you can roll without leaving marks, when contractors use cheap labor you can tell by the drywall and painting.
what do you prefer a sponge or hair tuft roller?
Dr. Adel Serag certainly not a sponge. Although it leaves a great finish it wont apply enough paint. Will have to do numerous coats and will take a long time. 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch mini roller will do the trick
Most decent paint doesn't leave much of a stipple these days because the paint (for the most part) is formulated to level itself fairly well. I will try this all roller method next because it seems efficient to me. I guess the fact that you are using a brush with a nap rather than one of the foam brushes that companies for some reason recommend has a lot to do with being able to get the coverage on the panels. I also have to add that some of these viewers must have anger issues!! Dang!
Judi Foster Judi, thanks for maintaining calm lol. The problem with most modern paint, is that it is low or even zero voc and dries VERY fast. This particular product doesn’t seem to suffer from this ailment and also looks great. This application method is fast when you are really trying to “bang out” some doors. And for minimal expense. Those that insist they would spray aren’t mentioning the clean up or expense of the machine. Plus, they have to mask off entire rooms to do their work. Incorporate that time and expense and you can see how foolish they are.
Bobby Tre Painting I like this thread right here. It's a smart thread. Yeah, obviously those "spray the door" guys don't do repaints very often. Customers HATE using their driveways or patios as spray booths.
If its a flat door like this one it will definitely have stimples, especially with a 1/2" nap. This technique works fine on doors with the fake wood grain though. Other than that use a brush for trim part and a 1/4" mohair or velour roller for flat areas.
I learned something. And Sherwin Williams is the best! I used some recently and I did a wonderful job. Thanks.