Re: the first point about Eye AF, I’ve found that a double back button focus setup winds up being really helpful! I map a traditional auto focus to the AF-ON button and then Eye-AF to the AE Lock button so I don’t have to flick through menus to change autofocus modes in a pinch.
Even better is triple back button focus 😉 I have AF-ON for Eye Detection, AE Lock for Subject Detection and the AF Point Button for good old DSLR mode lol It’s a little complicated to setup correctly but when it’s done right it gives great functionality with those 3 buttons 🔥
Same here! I shoot football (soccer) and I found that subject tracking was too jumpy with multiple subjects in the frame, despite adjusting settings in at AF menu. I now take the same approach as you - AF-ON is traditional Servo AF, AE Lock (star) button for tracking when I know I only have a single subject.
Great video. Though I do like the grip: The lens I use most is the 100-500, and since that changes balance quite a lot as you zoom, I find the R6 plus grip more “pointable”.
Welcome back Rob! Great video - your R6 settings are much the same as mine - I got really frustrated with subject tracking when shooting football as it just wouldn’t ‘stick’ with multiple potential subjects in the frame. Once I reverted to ‘traditional’ servo AF, I got many more shots I was happy with! I have since mapped the star/AE Lock button to be subject tracking if I need it and that’s been handy on occasion. Slightly weirdly, I do use subject tracking a lot more on my R7 - because it’s usually attached to my 300, a lot more of the action is in midfield so it’s less congested compared to the R6/70-200 being pointed around the 18 yard box.
I loved my R6 for sports photography... until I got my R5! I know you "lose" one stop of ISO at the high end but if you're pushing that far it was going to look like garbage on the R6 anyway. One thing I noticed on the R5 is the AF doesn't do that great of a job locking properly on a subject far away which makes sense because the face is more distant and finding the eye is more tricky. I wonder if the crop mode will help with autofocus because it limits the amount of the frame in which AF needs to look for a subject. If that's the case then I want to map a function override to one of the buttons on the back to go into that mode directly when I'm trying to lock onto a subject at distance (I'm also using the back AF button for center point focus and the exposure lock button for Eye AF when the subject is not in a confusing mess of people and standing sufficiently still to lock onto the eye -- really helpful to be able to switch modes just by moving my thumb a few millimeters!).
Sorry Rob, I know it probably seems that all I do is disagree with you, but I think we shoot very different sports and different goals (I sell onsite) The only things you said that I agree with here are using Mechanical Shutter, and Articulating Screen (The volleyball girls are usually a lot shorter than me, but I still like doing at least one huddle shot with the camera looking completely down on them) I ALWAYS use face detection-but I guess I have fewer kids in the frame (maybe 2 or 3 at most, and I trained myself to toggle between faces quickly)
I have a R6 on a 400mm f2.8 as well, and I would say the same, you don’t need the battery grip and facial autofocus is not good for team sports. You can use it in Tennis or other sports then don’t have too many people.
Great video, sir! Do you mind share which focus case you prefer for football (soccer)? I’ve been using case 4 on the R6ii. It works pretty well but would love to know if you’ve had success in other cases or modifying case 4. Thank you!
Re: the first point about Eye AF, I’ve found that a double back button focus setup winds up being really helpful! I map a traditional auto focus to the AF-ON button and then Eye-AF to the AE Lock button so I don’t have to flick through menus to change autofocus modes in a pinch.
Even better is triple back button focus 😉
I have AF-ON for Eye Detection, AE Lock for Subject Detection and the AF Point Button for good old DSLR mode lol
It’s a little complicated to setup correctly but when it’s done right it gives great functionality with those 3 buttons 🔥
@@chrismyattphotography i wish canon told us this. Changed my life.
I've used the Neewer grip since it came out and love it, cannot go back now. Only issue is you have to remove the grip when doing a firmware update.
Same here! I shoot football (soccer) and I found that subject tracking was too jumpy with multiple subjects in the frame, despite adjusting settings in at AF menu. I now take the same approach as you - AF-ON is traditional Servo AF, AE Lock (star) button for tracking when I know I only have a single subject.
Yeah this is a great tip 👍
I have a R6 and I'm a sport photography.... it's true! congratulations!
Great video. Though I do like the grip: The lens I use most is the 100-500, and since that changes balance quite a lot as you zoom, I find the R6 plus grip more “pointable”.
Welcome back Rob! Great video - your R6 settings are much the same as mine - I got really frustrated with subject tracking when shooting football as it just wouldn’t ‘stick’ with multiple potential subjects in the frame. Once I reverted to ‘traditional’ servo AF, I got many more shots I was happy with! I have since mapped the star/AE Lock button to be subject tracking if I need it and that’s been handy on occasion.
Slightly weirdly, I do use subject tracking a lot more on my R7 - because it’s usually attached to my 300, a lot more of the action is in midfield so it’s less congested compared to the R6/70-200 being pointed around the 18 yard box.
Cheers Andy
Great video as usual Rob🔥
AL Servo, what a guy!
Legend!
I loved my R6 for sports photography... until I got my R5! I know you "lose" one stop of ISO at the high end but if you're pushing that far it was going to look like garbage on the R6 anyway. One thing I noticed on the R5 is the AF doesn't do that great of a job locking properly on a subject far away which makes sense because the face is more distant and finding the eye is more tricky. I wonder if the crop mode will help with autofocus because it limits the amount of the frame in which AF needs to look for a subject. If that's the case then I want to map a function override to one of the buttons on the back to go into that mode directly when I'm trying to lock onto a subject at distance (I'm also using the back AF button for center point focus and the exposure lock button for Eye AF when the subject is not in a confusing mess of people and standing sufficiently still to lock onto the eye -- really helpful to be able to switch modes just by moving my thumb a few millimeters!).
the eye af is great for sports jus use the 3 button setup
Sorry Rob, I know it probably seems that all I do is disagree with you, but I think we shoot very different sports and different goals (I sell onsite) The only things you said that I agree with here are using Mechanical Shutter, and Articulating Screen (The volleyball girls are usually a lot shorter than me, but I still like doing at least one huddle shot with the camera looking completely down on them)
I ALWAYS use face detection-but I guess I have fewer kids in the frame (maybe 2 or 3 at most, and I trained myself to toggle between faces quickly)
No worries - it's fine to disagree. I'm surprised that you've had success shooting team sports with facial recognition though... well done to you
I have a R6 on a 400mm f2.8 as well, and I would say the same, you don’t need the battery grip and facial autofocus is not good for team sports. You can use it in Tennis or other sports then don’t have too many people.
Great video, sir! Do you mind share which focus case you prefer for football (soccer)? I’ve been using case 4 on the R6ii. It works pretty well but would love to know if you’ve had success in other cases or modifying case 4. Thank you!
I actually just tend to use Case 1 for the majority of things
You mentioned that you would like to Mark Curtain's RUclips channel... but no link?