Wes, watching this in 2024. You mentioned maybe 40 people would watch your video...I see the tally has reached 117,000! BTW - I agree bailing on the fork life was the right path.
Awesome Wes, good to see you in front of cam to put a face to the voice. You really are good at explaining things and very easy to understand. Looking forward to part 2.
Your description of the minimally equipped industrial engineer is perfect. I never knew it was a thing!? Every time i go to a breakdown in work it goes through my head!
It is fun to go into the wayback machine and see you as a presenter 5 years ago. I enjoy your getting to be more at ease and learning to let your personality come through!
I hear ya Wes. I admire everything you said from 9.00 - 9.45. I am also a mechanic, but not the prissy diploma kind. I also do not profess to be the all knowing. Everything I know has been learned on the job, through mud, grease and blood, taught to me by my dad and various other old timers over about 25 years. Their knowledge is priceless, and the old bastards always seem to have the cool little tricks up their sleeve for getting out of a clusterf##k! Keep up the good work fella. Great job!
Me too, taught by my Dad from the time I could carry his hammer. He passed away when I was 17 and I just carried on, learning the hard way, mostly from mistakes, sometimes from a success. Must have done something as made my own living in my own little shop, usually alone except for the wife who ran a spares business. Sometimes she had to hold bits while I fixed them. Now both 80 years old, retired from life . Watching Wes is good
Wes , I think your a top mechanic ! I've known plenty of so called "Qualified" mechanics that have nothing on your knowledge and experience ! Your Dad obviously started you off in the right direction when teaching you from the start.! Keep up the good work mate !
Wes, I'm an Airframe and Powerplant mechanic with an IA (Inspection Authorization endorsement) Which means I can sign off my own work in the 3 log books regular private airplanes have. I'm familiar with rebuilding (overhauling) engines that will attach into the airplanes I work on. The main engines I work on are 2 Lycoming and Continental. I had no idea that Continental manufactured more than aircraft powerplants. This was an interesting series thanks for letting us watch
Completely excellent explanation of processes and techniques. Good to see 'old' school' practices are still being observed and applied by 'younger' mechanics. Looking forward to the next 2 instalments. Regards Mark in the UK
I decided to go back in the archives of yours Wes and watch the classics. It's pretty cool to see how you've changed and become more comfortable during filming. You just appear very awkward in the early days. It's always been fantastic content, but to see how you've grown has been interesting.
I onced watched a Bentley Tech build up a V12 engine. I viewed the entire 4 hours! This build is just as fascinating and really don't know why! Thanks Wes.
Nice to see the man. I wish I had video like this to look at back when I was rebuilding stuff. I had a few moments when I was guessing. Very clear and easy to understand. Thanks Wes
I always have those doubts and second guesses too. And, you can see in the video that I totally forgot the oil passage plug under the front cover. So, it's good to be a little suspicious.
Excellent job. I have rebuilt many engines using the same procedures, never had a call back or failure. One suggestion, when installing pistons in the bore, I put a piece of rubber hose on each rod bolt so it won't scratch the journal when you tap it down.
Wrath of the internet??? Don't worry about those jealous "wanna be like you" jerks. You've got integrity, skill and presentation. Keep up the great work!
I have been watching your videos for a while and just now noticed just how good you are at backing up and explaing things starting at a learning level then progressing to higher levels. might try teaching what you know at a trade school. Few people can do this. FYI. I have three advanced degrees and cannot do this.
A lot of these Continentals were used as marine engines through the Gray Marine engine company. These videos have been super helpful for me! I've got one based off the F244.
I appreciate you explaining everything like you do. I’ve always heard “spun a main baring” and now I know what it means, because of your video, and the way you explained it. So thank you very much for taking the time to explain everything. It is appreciated sir.
I’m catching up with your past videos. I find them fascinating, but I have to take issue with you on two points. One, in your comments section, you said there were better channels out there. No, there aren’t. When I subscribe to a channel I know something about what’s going on. In your case, I have no idea of the mechanics of engines I’m completely at sea. Yet, I find your videos interesting and addictive . And that’s because of you. Your approach to your videos is great. Your commentary clears up questions and teaches us about engines. You have a marvelous teaching style and patience with your progress on the project. In listening to you explain what you’re doing, I can only come away with the conclusion that, to use an old farming cliche, you know your onions. And point two - you’re not ugly. Far from it. Otherwise I doubt you’d be married to a knockout like Mrs. Wes. So give yourself some credit.
Hi Wes. I know this video was a 1000yrs ago, but you say you had to 'knock' the valve guides in with a dirty great mallet, because you couldn't use your hydraulic press. You suspect however that this may have caused the cracks. I'm sure I hardly need to remind you, but there's always the 'drawbolt' method of valve guide insertion. Perhaps that would have saved the guides, and time and effort. I've been a subscriber to your channel for maybe 2yrs, and somehow overlooked many of your back catalogue of videos. Just spent a couple of days looking back at some of them, hence this 'late' comment. One of the best channels of this type on YT - so thanks very much for sharing. Regards Mark in the UK
Wes don’t worry, I m not a n expert but like you I know what I m talking about. None of the engines I have rebuilt have broken because of something that I did, no one showed me how I just had books and tools and got my head around it. Love your videos.
Wes, ypu are most definitely one seriously knowledgeable mechanic for your age. Anyone who criticizes your abilities and techniques is just plain clueless. As far as I'm concerned you'd make an excellent vocational school instructor top notch schools would love to have on their staffs including the one I attended my junior and senior years of high school. I was on the small engine class which was one of the reasons why the Coast Guard offered Mr automatic A school after boot camp to get me to enlist on a delayed enlistment program abd why I ended up going to Aviation Machinist Mate A school to learn about repairing Aircraft radial and turboshaft engines. Having that level of training on engines is why I feel I'm qualified to make the statement I have about you being qualified to be a Vocational school instructor. You have what it takes in spades (an old spades card game reference).
Looks like a big job. But I bet it satisfying to know that engine inside and out. I’ve only rebuilt small and motorcycle engines and I have always enjoyed the process. For me that’s fun.
Wes, great channel I've always used Motor Medic, Motot Honey or STP oil additive for rebuilding engine blocks, just the basics. New bearings, rings Front and rear engine seals. Hand polish the crankshaft, lol I never used plastic gauge. Hone the cylinder walls and put it back together. Never had a problem not using engine assembly lube. All overhead valve straight 6's
Very interesting, keep it up, l love rebuild videos and hello from the UK. I've often heard of flathead engines on US channels but didn't know what they were but the Briggs reference was a great way to explain it, I've seen loads of those on 805roadkings channel so I got it immediately, thanks, I learned something today! I always use engine oil on reassembly and grease on the valve collets, nice one.
When my Dad and I used to rebuild engines in the 1960's and 1970's in our home garage we never used assembly lube ( it probably didn't exist then!). This is a great trip down memory lane for me. I guess you are not into engine rebuilds 3 years on but keep up the good work!
It's nice seeing your introductions. Please keep them in your videos. You have learned well from your father and from your experience in a truck repair shop. You are doing a fine job of passing on knowledge to your viewers. I'm old enough to be your dad and have some experience with engines, but there is always some fact or technique to learn. Thanks for filling in the blanks!
Wes never apologise, I build all my own equipment with no formula training, I use common sense and the internet. I am now 66 years old and absolutely love your videos
I love to see the "RUclips shy" Experts become more comfortable with their productions. This is real life, real skill, and it is being shared with us. We Love your work, Wes. I Love to "Watch Wes Work". Is that a flat head? "No! It's a Shovel Head, you Knucklehead!" Sarcasm. ;-) And Harley Davidson's don't run on propane! ;-0
I was a licensed aircraft mechanic for 25 years. To apply for your aircraft repair or overhaul license you have to pass a practical, written and oral exam of everything you learned over a two year period with a minimum grade of 70%. There is no way a self taught mechanic could pass the three exams and receive their aircraft technicians license. The FAA is watching your every move and you can be held legally liable should repairs you signed off as complete go bad. You don't take short cuts or invent your own particular repair procedure. Worse if people are killed you might end up in jail. The Feds don't fool around.
Forgive me, as I am tardy to the party and just catching up with some of your older videos. Please consider the following boiler-plate internet comments: 1) you used the wrong lube when you reassembled the fretterich valve, 2) my grandpa doesn't use plastigauge. Consider Play Doh, 3. You used the wrong sized socket when hammering the cap into the block. I'll consider more for the other vids in the series.
Someone once told me the definition of an "Expert" and it goes like this X marks the spot spert is the little drip at the end of the hose. No one person is an expert we all have varying degrees of experience in a related field or you have more luck than brains. My opinion such as it is. Most people who do certain types of work and think over the job and watch what they do will do well, those who go hell bent for leather usually have to redo a lot of work. You took the time to breathe before the job started(referencing the Karate Kid). Keep it up.
Ok Wess, I never thought I would ever have to correct you. The tang on the bearing is just there to locate the bearings not to stop them from spinning, crush is what keeps the bearing from spinning. New engines dot have bearing tangs.
Enjoy the video however one correction. The notch on the bearing is not in place there to keep the bearing from spinning around, although it is widely believed it is the case. It is mainly there to locate the bearing in the correct orientation. The only force keeping the bearing from spinning is the friction between bearing back and bearing caps. Which therefore should be clean and oil free during installation. I work with normal notched bearings and bearings without any notch and both work equally well.
@@joepacheco4038 The tabs do not stop bearings from spinning, if anything they cause more damage when they do spin. Many modern engines now use tabless bearing shells, the clamping pressure is what stops them moving.
I was kinda lost with the valves being in the block, but when you said to think of it as 6 single cylinder Briggs & Stratton engines, it all came into focus.
I don't think the RUclips notification system works at all. Many times I get no notice of videos from channels I subscribe to. They will show up in the recommended videos area weeks later and when I go back to the notifications to check, there is nothing there. They are finally killing off the private message feature, but the notifications for it never did work. I would check it once in a blue moon and it would be full of messages I never knew about.
Wes Johnson Same here. The private message system is horrible. I liked the old notification system for new videos much better. If you were subscribed to a channel you got a notification of a new post.
I find notifications from apps very annoying, so I turn them of 14/15 times. On RUclips the best way to keep track of everything, is the subscriptions tab. Where all posts from the channels you´re subscribed to, gets listed in chronological order. Recommended is only good if you want to find new channels. Subscriptions is the go-to place when opening a RUclips window, to get an overview over what has happened.
I will take experience over school training any day, especially if the person has had success with what they are doing, it’s just hard to argue with success.
Everyone's an expert!! Good one!! As a matter of fact, I'm gonna use the info I find here, to comment on other people's videos, suggesting they're doing it wrong!! And you can usually tell the experts from the novices!! The experts all work on their vehicles outside, laying in the mud and gravel, and only use one tool!! THE B.F.H. I'm a self respectin RUclips specialist!! (and a parts changer, but don't tell anyone I admitted to it!!) Gotta go for now!! I need to change the power band, on a neighbors 2 stroke dirt bike.
What I have read about the fully grooved vs. half grooved main bearings is that the fully grooved are not usually used because the groove decreases surface area thus decreasing the bearing load rating. Usually the fully grooved bearings can be found in race engines where longevity isn't a concern but good lubrication is.
Every builder seems to have their own ideas about how to design the bearings. They all seem to work pretty well. I can't think of an engine that was notorious for bad main bearings.
Just a thought about bearings, when you grind the crankshaft 10 thousands under, the crank is now 10 thousands smaller, so it requires a bearing that is 10 thousands larger, not smaller.to mate with the crank.
Somebody worked hard to hurt one of those motors. They aren't sexy but tough like a boot. My Dad had them in his Lincoln welders for years and years. _Dan_
That crank gear being loose would bother me. Normally I just use 15w40 for all engine assembly. I also do an electric pump prelube of the whole engine before I start it though. You put that gasket dressing on your pan gasket both sides and you will need a sledge hammer and cold chisel to get it back off,,,, or so I have heard. :-) lol
The front pulley holds the gear in place. It's not a press fit. I've never seen where silicone or High-tack or any other kind of goo actually does anything to help the gasket seal. In many cases it makes it worse. Plus you have to clean the crap off the next time. It's nice for things like a water pump where it's awkward to install and you just need something to hold the gasket in place. Also good for the Cat jig saw puzzle pan gaskets.
I am just used to the racing diesels where if you don't weld the cam gear to the crank they will shear the key off and jump time. Force of habit I guess. No better way to wreck a diesel than some nice silicone lodged in a piston cooling nozzle.
100% agree on the silcone. I've seen tons of damage caused by gobs of silicone. My dad bought a Case 580B backhoe that supposedly needed a new torque converter. Once we cleaned all the silicone out of the pickup tube it worked like brand new. There's nothing "racing" about this old engine. It's a 245 cubic inch engine that makes all of about 40 horsepower!
My dad once worked with a forklift that had a Continental flathead 6. The cylinder head was in extremely bad condition, so it needed a specialist to weld the cylinder head before it would seal against a new head gasket. Dad described the welded cylinder head as an industrial work of art. 5:42 In years of watching engine rebuild videos, I never heard that welding a rod journal affects the main journals. Watching many engine rebuilding videos leads to interesting pieces of information. 5:59 don't some companies have reground cranks in their stock, and sell reguround cranks, plus a core charge for your existing crank? I suppose it depends on how common an engine is. 6:11 I have heard that some low price stroker kits for the Chevy 350 or Ford 302 have cranks and rods that are made in China. They seem to work. However, I don't know how cranks and rods from China hold up as stock replacement parts for industrial engines. The performance parts are usually cast 4340 steel. More expensive ones are usually 4340 forged steel. That may be a better alloy than what the original engine had. 15:59 Since lifters wear match the cam lobe, if the lifters are out of order, they should be reground. 23:20 Myvintageiron would occasionally find a ring that was too small because the factory put the wrong ring in the wrong package.
Wes don’t worry about people arm chair quarterbacking your processes. If that’s what gives them joy then I guess trip the life fantastic but in so far as what I’ve observed I’d be supremely confident having you do anything automotive related on my 🚗.
I took my fathers 300 six apart at 400,000 miles, all the mains were worn downward except the front main...it was worn UPWARD, I guess the Alternator/Water pump was pretty tight! (It only had Alt./Water Pump....Manual Steering/no air pump.)
I think engine oil is fine putting s motor together i believe assembly lube is good if you work slowly on building an engine like a side project you get time for every once in awhile
Lubriplate has been around forever. If you were going to install and run right away oil would be ok. Assembly lube insurers no dry start up as oil would run off also lubebrication system empty pump has to pickup to fill the oil system. Use to pack the oil pump with lubriplate to help seal and prevent oil starvation during start up creating higher vacuum in pump ( faster pickup) of oil.
In my 1969 Dodge Dart 340 I guess I pushed it too hard. At 30kmiles the cam bearings started spinning starving the head of oil. Ultimately the push rods smashed through the rocker arms and were just hanging there. The engine had a significant miss. We had to rivet the bearings to the block to keep them from spinning and keep the head properly oiled. I had never dug into and engine that far before and I did this whole thing in a dirt driveway. Learning as I went. It took me two weeks of evenings after work. That car broke almost as much as Eurotrash.
Great content! I have a backhoe with an F244 that may need an overhaul. Question: What was your cost to grind the crack caps and dip the block, etc? Thanks
I haven't worked on the F series Continentals, but with the Y series (Y69, Y91, and Y112) you can insert the tappets (lifters) from the top without removing the camshaft, if you remove the adjuster from the lifter first. These appear to be about the same.
lutemule Literally, millions of engines, automotive and aircraft, were assembled with oil. I think the quality of the metallurgy and design plays a significant role in a successful build.
I don’t think manufacturers use assembly lube for first start up or oil with high zinc content for break in. They just coat the parts & fill it with oil and go. So why does everyone say to use them when rebuilding a motor or installing a new cam and things like that? Just curious…
by the way Fork lift Rams make great hydraulic press rams.. imagine a custom built 50 or 60 ton press with a 3' or 4' stoke.. so if you have not ditched the rams from the boom.. you might take a second look at them.. make it even better since you have 2 rams... make a wide press.. but on the side.. make an open face single sided press with the overhang and the second cylinder with valves to control either ram..
Wes, watching this in 2024. You mentioned maybe 40 people would watch your video...I see the tally has reached 117,000! BTW - I agree bailing on the fork life was the right path.
Don't ever apologize for your lack of experience on certain things. You are the most analytical, thorough mechanic I have ever seen.
Long time ago , boy Wes you have certainly grown , I look forward to your projects . Thankyou sir .
Hey Wes give yourself some credit!You and Mortske are the best wrenchers on the TUBE!
I agree also his diagnostic skills are up there with PineHollow Diagnostics and Eric O. @ South Main Auto.
Awesome Wes, good to see you in front of cam to put a face to the voice. You really are good at explaining things and very easy to understand. Looking forward to part 2.
I'm editing it now!
@@WatchWesWork You have come a long way. Don't stop. People that say you talk too much should become silent. Your narrations are perfect.
luv your show wes im 77 retired given up mechs watch u without getting my hands dirty
You are my favourite creator. Love your content. Class act.
That's nice of you to say. There's a lot of better channels out there though!
Your description of the minimally equipped industrial engineer is perfect. I never knew it was a thing!? Every time i go to a breakdown in work it goes through my head!
@@WatchWesWork Stop being so modest. :-) But don't let it go to your head! :-0 You are very good, Wes.
@@WatchWesWork ll. Out. Ok
@@WatchWesWork Sure Wes like who Mortskie Repair🙄 lol
Just stumbled on this old vid - you've come a long way! Not to say this isn't already great....
It is fun to go into the wayback machine and see you as a presenter 5 years ago. I enjoy your getting to be more at ease and learning to let your personality come through!
I hear ya Wes. I admire everything you said from 9.00 - 9.45. I am also a mechanic, but not the prissy diploma kind. I also do not profess to be the all knowing. Everything I know has been learned on the job, through mud, grease and blood, taught to me by my dad and various other old timers over about 25 years. Their knowledge is priceless, and the old bastards always seem to have the cool little tricks up their sleeve for getting out of a clusterf##k! Keep up the good work fella. Great job!
Me too, taught by my Dad from the time I could carry his hammer. He passed away when I was 17 and I just carried on, learning the hard way, mostly from mistakes, sometimes from a success. Must have done something as made my own living in my own little shop, usually alone except for the wife who ran a spares business. Sometimes she had to hold bits while I fixed them. Now both 80 years old, retired from life . Watching Wes is good
Wes , I think your a top mechanic ! I've known plenty of so called "Qualified" mechanics that have nothing on your knowledge and experience ! Your Dad obviously started you off in the right direction when teaching you from the start.! Keep up the good work mate !
I agree. My dad and my brother are both excellent mechanics!
Wes, I'm an Airframe and Powerplant mechanic with an IA (Inspection Authorization endorsement) Which means I can sign off my own work in the 3 log books regular private airplanes have. I'm familiar with rebuilding (overhauling) engines that will attach into the airplanes I work on. The main engines I work on are 2 Lycoming and Continental. I had no idea that Continental manufactured more than aircraft powerplants. This was an interesting series thanks for letting us watch
Continental engines are quite common on welders and air-compressors of days gone by .
Completely excellent explanation of processes and techniques. Good to see 'old' school' practices are still being observed and applied by 'younger' mechanics.
Looking forward to the next 2 instalments.
Regards Mark in the UK
There's no diagnostic port in this old timer!
What are you talkin about man I love to watch you overhaul engines come on keep up the good work
I decided to go back in the archives of yours Wes and watch the classics. It's pretty cool to see how you've changed and become more comfortable during filming. You just appear very awkward in the early days. It's always been fantastic content, but to see how you've grown has been interesting.
we now call that an apprenticeship! That is a education.
I can't believe I missed this series,. better late than never.
I onced watched a Bentley Tech build up a V12 engine.
I viewed the entire 4 hours!
This build is just as fascinating and really don't know why!
Thanks Wes.
You have taught me much in your past videos, this one was no exception, nice to finally see you
Well I'm not much to look at.
Nice to see the man. I wish I had video like this to look at back when I was rebuilding stuff. I had a few moments when I was guessing. Very clear and easy to understand. Thanks Wes
I always have those doubts and second guesses too. And, you can see in the video that I totally forgot the oil passage plug under the front cover. So, it's good to be a little suspicious.
Excellent job. I have rebuilt many engines using the same procedures, never had a call back or failure. One suggestion, when installing pistons in the bore, I put a piece of rubber hose on each rod bolt so it won't scratch the journal when you tap it down.
Wrath of the internet??? Don't worry about those jealous "wanna be like you" jerks. You've got integrity, skill and presentation. Keep up the great work!
I have been watching your videos for a while and just now noticed just how good you are at backing up and explaing things starting at a learning level then progressing to higher levels. might try teaching what you know at a trade school. Few people can do this. FYI. I have three advanced degrees and cannot do this.
A lot of these Continentals were used as marine engines through the Gray Marine engine company. These videos have been super helpful for me! I've got one based off the F244.
I appreciate you explaining everything like you do. I’ve always heard “spun a main baring” and now I know what it means, because of your video, and the way you explained it. So thank you very much for taking the time to explain everything. It is appreciated sir.
I’m catching up with your past videos. I find them fascinating, but I have to take issue with you on two points. One, in your comments section, you said there were better channels out there. No, there aren’t. When I subscribe to a channel I know something about what’s going on. In your case, I have no idea of the mechanics of engines I’m completely at sea. Yet, I find your videos interesting and addictive . And that’s because of you. Your approach to your videos is great. Your commentary clears up questions and teaches us about engines. You have a marvelous teaching style and patience with your progress on the project. In listening to you explain what you’re doing, I can only come away with the conclusion that, to use an old farming cliche, you know your onions. And point two - you’re not ugly. Far from it. Otherwise I doubt you’d be married to a knockout like Mrs. Wes. So give yourself some credit.
Hi Wes. I know this video was a 1000yrs ago, but you say you had to 'knock' the valve guides in with a dirty great mallet, because you couldn't use your hydraulic press. You suspect however that this may have caused the cracks.
I'm sure I hardly need to remind you, but there's always the 'drawbolt' method of valve guide insertion. Perhaps that would have saved the guides, and time and effort.
I've been a subscriber to your channel for maybe 2yrs, and somehow overlooked many of your back catalogue of videos. Just spent a couple of days looking back at some of them, hence this 'late' comment.
One of the best channels of this type on YT - so thanks very much for sharing.
Regards Mark in the UK
Wes don’t worry, I m not a n expert but like you I know what I m talking about. None of the engines I have rebuilt have broken because of something that I did, no one showed me how I just had books and tools and got my head around it. Love your videos.
Wes, ypu are most definitely one seriously knowledgeable mechanic for your age.
Anyone who criticizes your abilities and techniques is just plain clueless.
As far as I'm concerned you'd make an excellent vocational school instructor top notch schools would love to have on their staffs including the one I attended my junior and senior years of high school.
I was on the small engine class which was one of the reasons why the Coast Guard offered Mr automatic A school after boot camp to get me to enlist on a delayed enlistment program abd why I ended up going to Aviation Machinist Mate A school to learn about repairing Aircraft radial and turboshaft engines.
Having that level of training on engines is why I feel I'm qualified to make the statement I have about you being qualified to be a Vocational school instructor.
You have what it takes in spades (an old spades card game reference).
Looks like a big job. But I bet it satisfying to know that engine inside and out. I’ve only rebuilt small and motorcycle engines and I have always enjoyed the process. For me that’s fun.
Brother you sure absorbed some amazing knowledge from your father, you are one smart hard working son. Great watch and instruction video. Thank you
Wes, great channel
I've always used Motor Medic, Motot Honey or STP oil additive for rebuilding engine blocks, just the basics. New bearings, rings
Front and rear engine seals. Hand polish the crankshaft, lol
I never used plastic gauge. Hone the cylinder walls and put it back together. Never had a problem not using engine assembly lube.
All overhead valve straight 6's
Wes, I am not a mechanic. However, I do enjoy watching you work on engines like this. I am learning a ton of new stuff.
Excellent videos. Most interesting indeed! Thank you! I am learning new stuff (I am a technical translator translating about engines quite often).
I have been following you and really appreciate seeing you in front of the camera. Very clear explanations as always. Thanks for sharing. Daniel
Yeah, time to lift the veil.
Good to see you, Wes. I love your in detail explanations and look forward to more videos.
Very interesting, keep it up, l love rebuild videos and hello from the UK. I've often heard of flathead engines on US channels but didn't know what they were but the Briggs reference was a great way to explain it, I've seen loads of those on 805roadkings channel so I got it immediately, thanks, I learned something today! I always use engine oil on reassembly and grease on the valve collets, nice one.
Nice work ! Professional all the way . Nicely done video as well . Thanks
Wow! This was a great video. I learned a ton from you on this. I love watching your videos. Keep them coming. Thank you
When my Dad and I used to rebuild engines in the 1960's and 1970's in our home garage we never used assembly lube ( it probably didn't exist then!). This is a great trip down memory lane for me. I guess you are not into engine rebuilds 3 years on but keep up the good work!
It's nice seeing your introductions. Please keep them in your videos. You have learned well from your father and from your experience in a truck repair shop. You are doing a fine job of passing on knowledge to your viewers. I'm old enough to be your dad and have some experience with engines, but there is always some fact or technique to learn. Thanks for filling in the blanks!
Keep producing the videos Wes...love the content and the relaxed, clear approach you have. Regards, Steve UK
Wes never apologise, I build all my own equipment with no formula training, I use common sense and the internet. I am now 66 years old and absolutely love your videos
always check every piston ring one ring that doesnt have enough gap will wipe out a block
I love to see the "RUclips shy" Experts become more comfortable with their productions. This is real life, real skill, and it is being shared with us. We Love your work, Wes. I Love to "Watch Wes Work". Is that a flat head? "No! It's a Shovel Head, you Knucklehead!" Sarcasm. ;-) And Harley Davidson's don't run on propane! ;-0
I was a licensed aircraft mechanic for 25 years. To apply for your aircraft repair or overhaul license you have to pass a practical, written and oral exam of everything you learned over a two year period with a minimum grade of 70%. There is no way a self taught mechanic could pass the three exams and receive their aircraft technicians license. The FAA is watching your every move and you can be held legally liable should repairs you signed off as complete go bad. You don't take short cuts or invent your own particular repair procedure. Worse if people are killed you might end up in jail. The Feds don't fool around.
Forgive me, as I am tardy to the party and just catching up with some of your older videos. Please consider the following boiler-plate internet comments: 1) you used the wrong lube when you reassembled the fretterich valve, 2) my grandpa doesn't use plastigauge. Consider Play Doh, 3. You used the wrong sized socket when hammering the cap into the block. I'll consider more for the other vids in the series.
Someone once told me the definition of an "Expert" and it goes like this X marks the spot spert is the little drip at the end of the hose. No one person is an expert we all have varying degrees of experience in a related field or you have more luck than brains. My opinion such as it is. Most people who do certain types of work and think over the job and watch what they do will do well, those who go hell bent for leather usually have to redo a lot of work. You took the time to breathe before the job started(referencing the Karate Kid). Keep it up.
Ok Wess, I never thought I would ever have to correct you. The tang on the bearing is just there to locate the bearings not to stop them from spinning, crush is what keeps the bearing from spinning. New engines dot have bearing tangs.
Enjoy the video however one correction.
The notch on the bearing is not in place there to keep the bearing from spinning around, although it is widely believed it is the case.
It is mainly there to locate the bearing in the correct orientation.
The only force keeping the bearing from spinning is the friction between bearing back and bearing caps. Which therefore should be clean and oil free during installation.
I work with normal notched bearings and bearings without any notch and both work equally well.
That's a good point Eryk.
Double B S oriented so it will be retained. An not spin
@@joepacheco4038 The tabs do not stop bearings from spinning, if anything they cause more damage when they do spin. Many modern engines now use tabless bearing shells, the clamping pressure is what stops them moving.
Good eye spotting those cracked lifters
Great video. Relaxing to watch
I was kinda lost with the valves being in the block, but when you said to think of it as 6 single cylinder Briggs & Stratton engines, it all came into focus.
Good one mate well explained help me heaps
I have not been getting notified on your videos Wes. I thought you were taking a break. Guess its time to catch up. Good to see you on camera.
I don't think the RUclips notification system works at all. Many times I get no notice of videos from channels I subscribe to. They will show up in the recommended videos area weeks later and when I go back to the notifications to check, there is nothing there. They are finally killing off the private message feature, but the notifications for it never did work. I would check it once in a blue moon and it would be full of messages I never knew about.
Wes Johnson Same here. The private message system is horrible. I liked the old notification system for new videos much better. If you were subscribed to a channel you got a notification of a new post.
I find notifications from apps very annoying, so I turn them of 14/15 times. On RUclips the best way to keep track of everything, is the subscriptions tab. Where all posts from the channels you´re subscribed to, gets listed in chronological order. Recommended is only good if you want to find new channels. Subscriptions is the go-to place when opening a RUclips window, to get an overview over what has happened.
this bring back memories used 30 wt and antiseize 102 lots of oil never any problems
I will take experience over school training any day, especially if the person has had success with what they are doing, it’s just hard to argue with success.
actually the tab is there to center the bearing in the bore, crush is what keep the bearing from spinning. new engines dont even have the tang.
As usual from you - another informative video!
Nice content! Mortske recommends watching ya.😊
Everyone's an expert!! Good one!! As a matter of fact, I'm gonna use the info I find here, to comment on other people's videos, suggesting they're doing it wrong!!
And you can usually tell the experts from the novices!! The experts all work on their vehicles outside, laying in the mud and gravel, and only use one tool!! THE B.F.H.
I'm a self respectin RUclips specialist!! (and a parts changer, but don't tell anyone I admitted to it!!) Gotta go for now!! I need to change the power band, on a neighbors 2 stroke dirt bike.
Awesome job thanks so much
Were do I find a motor head like you? Michigan , above 45 north
Nice mill
We don't watch mechanic videos to see pretty boys with man buns, so wrench on!
amen
What I have read about the fully grooved vs. half grooved main bearings is that the fully grooved are not usually used because the groove decreases surface area thus decreasing the bearing load rating. Usually the fully grooved bearings can be found in race engines where longevity isn't a concern but good lubrication is.
Every builder seems to have their own ideas about how to design the bearings. They all seem to work pretty well. I can't think of an engine that was notorious for bad main bearings.
Don't sell your self short you are as good as anyone else
great video!
Thank you.
Just a thought about bearings, when you grind the crankshaft 10 thousands under, the crank is now 10 thousands smaller, so it requires a bearing that is 10 thousands larger, not smaller.to mate with the crank.
Somebody worked hard to hurt one of those motors. They aren't sexy but tough like a boot. My Dad had them in his Lincoln welders for years and years.
_Dan_
Yup, tougher than a boiled owl.
Ur doing a great jog Wes from westtown N.Y.10998
That crank gear being loose would bother me. Normally I just use 15w40 for all engine assembly. I also do an electric pump prelube of the whole engine before I start it though. You put that gasket dressing on your pan gasket both sides and you will need a sledge hammer and cold chisel to get it back off,,,, or so I have heard. :-) lol
The front pulley holds the gear in place. It's not a press fit. I've never seen where silicone or High-tack or any other kind of goo actually does anything to help the gasket seal. In many cases it makes it worse. Plus you have to clean the crap off the next time. It's nice for things like a water pump where it's awkward to install and you just need something to hold the gasket in place. Also good for the Cat jig saw puzzle pan gaskets.
I am just used to the racing diesels where if you don't weld the cam gear to the crank they will shear the key off and jump time. Force of habit I guess. No better way to wreck a diesel than some nice silicone lodged in a piston cooling nozzle.
100% agree on the silcone. I've seen tons of damage caused by gobs of silicone. My dad bought a Case 580B backhoe that supposedly needed a new torque converter. Once we cleaned all the silicone out of the pickup tube it worked like brand new. There's nothing "racing" about this old engine. It's a 245 cubic inch engine that makes all of about 40 horsepower!
I was just wondering when you'd make another video. I'm sure life is busy enough!
My dad once worked with a forklift that had a Continental flathead 6. The cylinder head was in extremely bad condition, so it needed a specialist to weld the cylinder head before it would seal against a new head gasket. Dad described the welded cylinder head as an industrial work of art.
5:42 In years of watching engine rebuild videos, I never heard that welding a rod journal affects the main journals. Watching many engine rebuilding videos leads to interesting pieces of information.
5:59 don't some companies have reground cranks in their stock, and sell reguround cranks, plus a core charge for your existing crank? I suppose it depends on how common an engine is.
6:11 I have heard that some low price stroker kits for the Chevy 350 or Ford 302 have cranks and rods that are made in China. They seem to work. However, I don't know how cranks and rods from China hold up as stock replacement parts for industrial engines. The performance parts are usually cast 4340 steel. More expensive ones are usually 4340 forged steel. That may be a better alloy than what the original engine had.
15:59 Since lifters wear match the cam lobe, if the lifters are out of order, they should be reground.
23:20 Myvintageiron would occasionally find a ring that was too small because the factory put the wrong ring in the wrong package.
I think it’s Rich from DeBoss Garage, who dips the whole top half of the piston into oil before installing!! That’s how to lube the rings 😁.
Wes don’t worry about people arm chair quarterbacking your processes. If that’s what gives them joy then I guess trip the life fantastic but in so far as what I’ve observed I’d be supremely confident having you do anything automotive related on my 🚗.
I've put many miles on the 226 cid version of this engine in a Willys pickup. Will last forever at 2600 RPM.
They're pretty hardy engines. They don't make much power and they seem to leak and burn a lot of oil. But, that's how all engines used to be.
Rather have a hard knock mechanic over a factory trained one any day . Let them talk while you fix !!
I took my fathers 300 six apart at 400,000 miles, all the mains were worn downward except the front main...it was worn UPWARD, I guess the Alternator/Water pump was pretty tight! (It only had Alt./Water Pump....Manual Steering/no air pump.)
Hone is where the heart is!
As to the"assembly" lube, my Dad used white grease, Lubriiplate brand, and it never caused an issue.
Wow someone else that uses Lubriplate...nice thought it was just me!!!
I think engine oil is fine putting s motor together i believe assembly lube is good if you work slowly on building an engine like a side project you get time for every once in awhile
The tabs only locate the bearing. The ends of the bearings forcing the shells in to the bores holding them from spinning.
So, before they made assembly lube, guess what? They used motor oil.
Hee Hee. Don't we know it. :-)
The snotty part is what we call the cling factor.
Lubriplate has been around forever. If you were going to install and run right away oil would be ok. Assembly lube insurers no dry start up as oil would run off also lubebrication system empty pump has to pickup to fill the oil system. Use to pack the oil pump with lubriplate to help seal and prevent oil starvation during start up creating higher vacuum in pump ( faster pickup) of oil.
The bearing cap retention tabs are on opposite sides to minimise metal removal from one side
On almost any other engine, the tab are both on the same side. I think this is the fist one I have seen that was opposite.
In my 1969 Dodge Dart 340 I guess I pushed it too hard. At 30kmiles the cam bearings started spinning starving the head of oil. Ultimately the push rods smashed through the rocker arms and were just hanging there. The engine had a significant miss. We had to rivet the bearings to the block to keep them from spinning and keep the head properly oiled. I had never dug into and engine that far before and I did this whole thing in a dirt driveway. Learning as I went. It took me two weeks of evenings after work. That car broke almost as much as Eurotrash.
Lookin good.
Thanks.
Great content! I have a backhoe with an F244 that may need an overhaul. Question: What was your cost to grind the crack caps and dip the block, etc? Thanks
Good was hoping you going to say that Lapp .
Very entertaining Series @Watch Wes Work
I haven't worked on the F series Continentals, but with the Y series (Y69, Y91, and Y112) you can insert the tappets (lifters) from the top without removing the camshaft, if you remove the adjuster from the lifter first. These appear to be about the same.
Very nice
My brother and I rebuilt a few engines and never used break in lube and never had a problem.
lutemule Literally, millions of engines, automotive and aircraft, were assembled with oil. I think the quality of the metallurgy and design plays a significant role in a successful build.
I don’t think manufacturers use assembly lube for first start up or oil with high zinc content for break in. They just coat the parts & fill it with oil and go. So why does everyone say to use them when rebuilding a motor or installing a new cam and things like that? Just curious…
Hola que calibración llevan las válvulas de admisión y escape del motor cabeza plana
Ur not ugly kiddo people are jelous of u lol. Ur doing a great job
easier to remember, to place the keepers with the taper towards the valve.
by the way Fork lift Rams make great hydraulic press rams.. imagine a custom built 50 or 60 ton press with a 3' or 4' stoke.. so if you have not ditched the rams from the boom.. you might take a second look at them.. make it even better since you have 2 rams... make a wide press.. but on the side.. make an open face single sided press with the overhang and the second cylinder with valves to control either ram..
maybe save the assembly lube bottle and put what ever you want in it to make life easier. good video
Who knows, maybe it's the greatest lube ever made.
those older 3 1/2 hP B&S small engines the Valve seats will sometimes come out
My 1947 continental 4 cyl was bored out 125 over works well