The new control board came in today. Got it installed and programed but I'm still not getting voltage at the white and orange wires when in forced defrost. Could I be working with a bad fan? White and orange wires are showing 30 ohms.
Hi there, Ive been helping my dad troubleshoot his fridge. Original symptom was the ice chunk in the freezer. I used a multimeter to and "short defrost mode" to check the board and were not getting 120v on the white and orange when activating short defrost mode. We ordered a new board and its having the same issue. Also in diagnostic mode when we toggle the compressor, it doesnt always come on right away. Sometimes we hear the click and the fan will come on, but we have to wait a random amount of time for the compressor to kick on, is this normal?
Where can I find the tech manual/steps for the mfc2062fez ? . It's almost like this, except the controller has actual temp (2 digits). Will the same steps work ? I've tried looking online for the manual, and there are like 2000 sites that come up, but either don't have it, or have the user manual.
Yes, if you didn't detect voltage in test mode, that's likely the issue. Have you performed a continuity check on the white and orange wires unplugged from your MPC? They should read between 20-25 ohms. You can also check the brown and orange wires for your bi-metal thermostat. If your freezer is still frozen behind the panel, it should read 0.1-0.6 ohms; if it doesn't, it's defective. However, it needs to be covered in ice for this test. If you've already defrosted the unit, it should read as open. Regarding your original question, your MPC should show a 120 volts output in SHORT DEFROST diagnostic test mode.
Excellent post, helped me to have the courage to accomplish this. I used alligator clips at the ends of my probes and then the clips held straight pins to get down inside The white and orange ports. No voltage, replaced the board, easy peasy. I can't easily find those extensions that you have in this video. Where can I find those wavy pointy extensions? Thanks!
Not sure if I did it wrong/different but after the display went from F/D to S, I had to hit the fridge - one more time to get the defrost on with the 120v. I got the 120v then. I then checked the continuity and got 30 ohms from O/W and W/Br. I’m going to wait for it to defrost to check the thermostat continuity again, but it sounds like everything checked is working correct. Could it be something else causing it to freeze up?
Thanks so much! Very helpful!! I did the diagnostic tests and for 1-6 the result was "S" in the fridge window, and for 3-6 there was no noise for the freezer fan at all. Does this point to the fan needing to be replaced? For all other tests I heard the systems toggle on and off.
It's great to hear that the diagnostic tests were helpful! Based on the results you shared, it does seem like the freezer fan might need to be replaced.
I have the same whirlpool fridge. It works fine and then for no reason two negative signs will come up on the control board and and the fridge stops cooling. So it’s an intermittent problem. I took the freezer panel off and the coils were not iced up. How should I diagnose this problem?
Pass: This indicates that the circuit or the component being tested is functioning correctly. It means that the circuit is behaving as expected under the test conditions. In a pass condition, the electrical properties like resistance, voltage, and current are within the specified limits for the circuit's correct operation. Open: An "open" condition means there is a break or discontinuity in the circuit. This could be due to a broken wire, a failed component, or a poor connection that prevents current from flowing through the circuit as intended. An open circuit will typically show an infinite or very high resistance when measured with a multimeter, as there is no complete path for current flow. Short: A "short" (short circuit) occurs when there is an unintended path between two points in a circuit, allowing current to flow directly without passing through the intended path or components. This usually happens due to a fault like insulation breakdown or a component failure, causing a connection that bypasses part of the circuit. Short circuits can be dangerous as they often result in excessive current flow, leading to overheating, component damage, or even fire.
This was an excellent video. It saved me a lot of money. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!
Thank you for watching and sharing your feedback! I appreciate it!
Thank you! So much money and time saved. Great video!
You're welcome!
The new control board came in today. Got it installed and programed but I'm still not getting voltage at the white and orange wires when in forced defrost. Could I be working with a bad fan? White and orange wires are showing 30 ohms.
Hi there, Ive been helping my dad troubleshoot his fridge. Original symptom was the ice chunk in the freezer. I used a multimeter to and "short defrost mode" to check the board and were not getting 120v on the white and orange when activating short defrost mode. We ordered a new board and its having the same issue. Also in diagnostic mode when we toggle the compressor, it doesnt always come on right away. Sometimes we hear the click and the fan will come on, but we have to wait a random amount of time for the compressor to kick on, is this normal?
Where can I find the tech manual/steps for the mfc2062fez ? . It's almost like this, except the controller has actual temp (2 digits). Will the same steps work ? I've tried looking online for the manual, and there are like 2000 sites that come up, but either don't have it, or have the user manual.
Thanks for posting this...if we detect no voltage across white and orange, the short forced defrost test, should we just buy a new control board?
Yes, if you didn't detect voltage in test mode, that's likely the issue. Have you performed a continuity check on the white and orange wires unplugged from your MPC? They should read between 20-25 ohms. You can also check the brown and orange wires for your bi-metal thermostat. If your freezer is still frozen behind the panel, it should read 0.1-0.6 ohms; if it doesn't, it's defective. However, it needs to be covered in ice for this test. If you've already defrosted the unit, it should read as open. Regarding your original question, your MPC should show a 120 volts output in SHORT DEFROST diagnostic test mode.
Excellent post, helped me to have the courage to accomplish this. I used alligator clips at the ends of my probes and then the clips held straight pins to get down inside The white and orange ports. No voltage, replaced the board, easy peasy. I can't easily find those extensions that you have in this video. Where can I find those wavy pointy extensions? Thanks!
It is in his written description
Not sure if I did it wrong/different but after the display went from F/D to S, I had to hit the fridge - one more time to get the defrost on with the 120v. I got the 120v then. I then checked the continuity and got 30 ohms from O/W and W/Br. I’m going to wait for it to defrost to check the thermostat continuity again, but it sounds like everything checked is working correct. Could it be something else causing it to freeze up?
Great video!! It was very very good
Thank you for your kind words! It means a lot to me that you enjoyed the video.
I have the same refrigerator only that on my display I have two horizontal lines, how can I solve that?
Thanks so much! Very helpful!! I did the diagnostic tests and for 1-6 the result was "S" in the fridge window, and for 3-6 there was no noise for the freezer fan at all. Does this point to the fan needing to be replaced? For all other tests I heard the systems toggle on and off.
It's great to hear that the diagnostic tests were helpful! Based on the results you shared, it does seem like the freezer fan might need to be replaced.
I have the same whirlpool fridge. It works fine and then for no reason two negative signs will come up on the control board and and the fridge stops cooling. So it’s an intermittent problem. I took the freezer panel off and the coils were not iced up. How should I diagnose this problem?
Can it retrieve any stored error codes?
@@onlineappliancetechmine has the same problem but it won’t let you press any anything no buttons work it’s stuck on the two dashes
You didn't example what "pass", "open" or "short" mean.
Pass: This indicates that the circuit or the component being tested is functioning correctly. It means that the circuit is behaving as expected under the test conditions. In a pass condition, the electrical properties like resistance, voltage, and current are within the specified limits for the circuit's correct operation.
Open: An "open" condition means there is a break or discontinuity in the circuit. This could be due to a broken wire, a failed component, or a poor connection that prevents current from flowing through the circuit as intended. An open circuit will typically show an infinite or very high resistance when measured with a multimeter, as there is no complete path for current flow.
Short: A "short" (short circuit) occurs when there is an unintended path between two points in a circuit, allowing current to flow directly without passing through the intended path or components. This usually happens due to a fault like insulation breakdown or a component failure, causing a connection that bypasses part of the circuit. Short circuits can be dangerous as they often result in excessive current flow, leading to overheating, component damage, or even fire.