Hey Gang, I'm a huge fan of the effort you put into this and how thorough your process was. As the North American distributor for Dirty Down, I would love to discuss the lengths you're going to create your effect. At conventions across North America I am always able to walk beginners and experts through the process in 2 minutes or less with no heat involved. My concerns: 1. You do not need heat to create the beautiful colors dirty down provides. Not on the bottle nor the model. Heat will only help with the mixing process and heat applied to dirty down will give an unreliable effect. 2. Do not put water in your pot. You mention in the video that at some point you stop getting an effect. This is why. So what steps do I recommend? 1. Mix thoroughly. 30 seconds on a vortex mixer OR scrape the bottom of the pot to free up the ball bearing and then hand shake for 2 minutes. A dark, sometimes glossy effect is the hallmark of an unmixed pot. 2. Wash onto a surface. Dirty down loves detail and texture. This is when you can dip your brush in water and stipple it into your wet dirty down. The water will help it flow into all the detail with the areas where the water settles being the brightest. 3. Dirty Down is semi-opaque so your base coat matters. I prefer darker tones or orangey browns and then bringing the metal in afterwards by stippling and or dry brushing. In the end, getting a good effect should be as simple as Mix -> wash. I'd love to talk more about your experiences. I appreciate all the work you do and the enthusiasm you bring to the hobby. - Goblin's Hut
I agree with heat not needed; I warm it up a bit by sticking it in my pocket for 20 minutes or so before use and I've had great effects with Rust, Moss, and Verdigris (haven't used Yellow Rust). Now...the stickiness of Blood and Snot, on the other hand...
I believe this may be a Lord of some kind 😛 glad you enjoyed it and we love upcycling and your one was the best of all of them by far - Cal I am really glad you popped by, we hope it will excite people to give your products a try ~Sunny
Of course! We just want more people painting more stuff ☺️ - Cal We aim to be a good resource for hobbyists so am glad to hear that, can you spread the positivity and share the video ~Sunny
Wow! When I saw this topic on the list I had no idea there would be so much to discuss about how to use Dirty Downs. Thanks for making such a thorough video!
Glad you think so, I think we covered a lot too we are super disappointed with the reach of it at the moment because we put so much into it - Cal P.S. if you want to help sharing changes things a lot
One of the best videos I've ever seen on the Dirty Down products! It's one of those things I keep meaning to get, but don't because of price and for now I've been enjoying the FX paints from AP. Thanks for making this and thanks for continuing to be a positive force in the world of wargaming/mini painting. :)
Are you used based? I talked to MishMash another RUclipsr and he said that it's 20 USD over there for some reason we are used to getting the shaft price wise in Oz but its only 12 to 15 AUD here And glad you enjoyed the episode - Cal
@@WhatareyouPaintingnow Yup! I'll eventually get some to try, but have been having fun exploring teh alternatives with citadel and Army Paint and AK interactive :)
I've found keeping dirty down products in an inner pocket in your coat or something is enough to keep them warm. That water bowl thing seems a bit overkill imo
Since you're in Australia you can get Dulux Rust Effect paint (pluss the activator) - for some reason I think Aus is the only place they sell the product. I got some off e bay that I guess the person had imported and then decanted into smaller pots which was more expensive than it ought to be.
So I looked into it and it would be a 120 dollar video to try it out so... I don't think we will be doing that as we are very much in the red on this video - Cal
@@WhatareyouPaintingnow Well, I've looked and looked but I can't find it but... I got these tips from an Australian youtuber and he was painting up zone mortalis tiles with this rust effect paint, one tin that he bought years before and lasted forever et cetera - that's how I knew about it and that it din't exist here in the U.K. !!! Wish I could find the video for you.
I must have got a bad batch of the verdigris because mine does absolutely nothing. I've stirred it until there wasn't any thickness left, applied it thick thin, pure and watered down, dried with cold air hot air and the most I every got out of it was a single barely visible green speck. I poured some in a pool on cardboard as a test and it turned green with black edges but when normally painted onto a model it just turned into an inky black mess. It seems to work for some people but for me it nearly ruined hours of work. I went back to the tried and true verdigris method: turquoise oil paint thinned with mineral spirit. easy to apply and you know exactly what the result will be right away. Its not a black sludge that may or may not turn the color you want and if you make mistake it wipes easily away.
We have had bad experiences as we have said however following what we have suggested is the best bet in our opinion. I am sorry Stuff went sideways 😞 - Cal
Dirtying in a land down under Where brushes glow and ravens plunder (yeah) Can't you hear, can't you hear dat booty? (booty) You better shake, you better take cover - WAYPN at work
I met a Strange woman she made me nervous (Sunny) She took me and gave me breakfast And she said... Do you come from the land down under!? Where women blow and men plunder Can't you hear can't you hear the thunder! You better run you better take cover! - Cal
@@wingwalker007 It did not move the ball ha ha ha but it did help us locate it, because some of the times you feel crazy like is it actually in here. It's just too stuck - Cal
Probably but it was probably primarily the lack of shaking, shaking is key and you see how much we shake in that thing, you have to shake it like it owes you money - Cal
Question: so you said that after opening the bottle it will eventually lose its reactivity. Are you saying that the product will spoil after opening and becomes useless?
I've played with DD rust, moss and verdigris for some time now. Combining my own experience with many guide videos - this one included - I came to the conclusion that in most cases it's just not worth it. Minding the price of the products and all the hoops you have to jump through in order to make it work, the payoff is simply not worth the effort for most mini paint jobs. And of course let's not forget that those paints reactivate with water, so if you're planning to play with your painted minis, those painstakingly created effects will rub off sooner or later. What about varnish then? That will affect the final finish and in the end you'll end up with something you could have achieved easier with acrylics anyway. I can see using those products for a display project such as a diorama or competition/display level mini, but for army painting or painting HQ units even to a high standard you can achieve fairly similar effects faster, cheaper and without all the hassle. For rust, slightly thinned Typhus Corrosion + Fuegan orange wash + Ryza Rust drybrush produces a decent effect for most needs and adding quite thinned bright orange for accents sells the final result quite convincingly. Verdigris is equally easy: slightly thinned down Typhus corrosion + Nihilakh Oxide thinned down with water at 2:3 rate produces amazing results over bronze metallics - add accents with heavily thinned down Gauss Blaster green and you're golden. As for moss, I don't have an alternative recipe because the DD product actually works well with minimal effort: heat up the bottle as you normally would, then apply a layer over a slightly damp surface and leave to dry. Then feather out the edges with a damp brush and for accents dab a damp brush gently where you want the green to be brighter and you're done. If I want texture, I use Typhus Corrosion first and then the moss over it when it's dry and get great results.
I was talking with another RUclipsr MishMash and he tells me for some reason Dirty Down Rust costs 20 USD over there is that right?! Because us Australians are used to getting the shaft price wise but we usually pay between 12 to 15 AUD for it... - Cal
DO NOT put this in a glass container. I used an empty Tamiya Thin Cement bottle, shook it once and had the agitator shatter the bottle in my hand and weather my work laptop. And, you know, cut my hand up.
I believe that may have more to do with the bottle chosen we have done that procedure many times with the SMS bottles. But once heated we avoid holding the bottle - Cal
Timecodes
0:10 Introduction
0:31 General advice
5:59 Patenia
7:40 Blooming
9:27 Combination
11:06 Integration
13:10 Verdigris
13:57 Moss
15:34 Conclusion
16:33 End credit
Hey Gang, I'm a huge fan of the effort you put into this and how thorough your process was. As the North American distributor for Dirty Down, I would love to discuss the lengths you're going to create your effect. At conventions across North America I am always able to walk beginners and experts through the process in 2 minutes or less with no heat involved. My concerns:
1. You do not need heat to create the beautiful colors dirty down provides. Not on the bottle nor the model. Heat will only help with the mixing process and heat applied to dirty down will give an unreliable effect.
2. Do not put water in your pot. You mention in the video that at some point you stop getting an effect. This is why.
So what steps do I recommend?
1. Mix thoroughly. 30 seconds on a vortex mixer OR scrape the bottom of the pot to free up the ball bearing and then hand shake for 2 minutes. A dark, sometimes glossy effect is the hallmark of an unmixed pot.
2. Wash onto a surface. Dirty down loves detail and texture. This is when you can dip your brush in water and stipple it into your wet dirty down. The water will help it flow into all the detail with the areas where the water settles being the brightest.
3. Dirty Down is semi-opaque so your base coat matters. I prefer darker tones or orangey browns and then bringing the metal in afterwards by stippling and or dry brushing.
In the end, getting a good effect should be as simple as Mix -> wash. I'd love to talk more about your experiences. I appreciate all the work you do and the enthusiasm you bring to the hobby.
- Goblin's Hut
I agree with heat not needed; I warm it up a bit by sticking it in my pocket for 20 minutes or so before use and I've had great effects with Rust, Moss, and Verdigris (haven't used Yellow Rust). Now...the stickiness of Blood and Snot, on the other hand...
This has got to be the most comprehensive video on this product and techniques that I've ever seen.
Yeah... we put a bit into and and it didn't get a lot of play for some reason - Cal
Thank guys for the mention! I love how all the tanks look! I'll give a try to some of those paints
I believe this may be a Lord of some kind 😛 glad you enjoyed it and we love upcycling and your one was the best of all of them by far - Cal
I am really glad you popped by, we hope it will excite people to give your products a try ~Sunny
Thank you for educating and bringing more positivity into the hobby❤️
Of course! We just want more people painting more stuff ☺️ - Cal
We aim to be a good resource for hobbyists so am glad to hear that, can you spread the positivity and share the video ~Sunny
Wow! When I saw this topic on the list I had no idea there would be so much to discuss about how to use Dirty Downs. Thanks for making such a thorough video!
I am glad we surprised you with the density of the information with it - Cal
Perfect timing! I’m waiting on some dirty down in the mail
NICE! hopefully this will be very helpful to you - Cal
We'd love to hear how you go with these tips we have shared once you get the stuff~Sunny
Great video! Very helpful information to use a finicky product.
Glad you enjoyed it and got useful information out of it - Cal
This is by far the most intricate guide I've seen on these products.
Glad you think so, I think we covered a lot too we are super disappointed with the reach of it at the moment because we put so much into it - Cal
P.S. if you want to help sharing changes things a lot
One of the best videos I've ever seen on the Dirty Down products! It's one of those things I keep meaning to get, but don't because of price and for now I've been enjoying the FX paints from AP. Thanks for making this and thanks for continuing to be a positive force in the world of wargaming/mini painting. :)
Are you used based? I talked to MishMash another RUclipsr and he said that it's 20 USD over there for some reason we are used to getting the shaft price wise in Oz but its only 12 to 15 AUD here
And glad you enjoyed the episode - Cal
@@WhatareyouPaintingnow Yup! I'll eventually get some to try, but have been having fun exploring teh alternatives with citadel and Army Paint and AK interactive :)
Sweet Macbeth reference. Bonus points! Definitely have to rewatch when I get home and can take notes.
Yeah I think there is lots of things we discovered which is amazing - Cal
These are always amazing!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed - Cal
Great job! There are so many reviews of this product that they ignore heating anything and I’m like did you even read the bottle?
man... I *bleeping* know right - Cal
Thank you for covering these products!!
@@anegativeatheist-9327 glad you found it helpful if you want to help us please share it around - Cal
I've found keeping dirty down products in an inner pocket in your coat or something is enough to keep them warm.
That water bowl thing seems a bit overkill imo
Trust me when I say it makes a big difference - Cal
we have played around quite a bit with these and without this level of heat in our experience you just don't get the effect ~Sunny
Wait, are those canisters - soda cans with some bits glued on?
Yep those things are just smaller than usual soda cans a little squat, but yeah the guy who makes them is at the end of video - Cal
Since you're in Australia you can get Dulux Rust Effect paint (pluss the activator) - for some reason I think Aus is the only place they sell the product. I got some off e bay that I guess the person had imported and then decanted into smaller pots which was more expensive than it ought to be.
Will have to look into this... - Cal
So I looked into it and it would be a 120 dollar video to try it out so... I don't think we will be doing that as we are very much in the red on this video - Cal
@@WhatareyouPaintingnow Well, I've looked and looked but I can't find it but... I got these tips from an Australian youtuber and he was painting up zone mortalis tiles with this rust effect paint, one tin that he bought years before and lasted forever et cetera - that's how I knew about it and that it din't exist here in the U.K. !!! Wish I could find the video for you.
How awesome 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it - Cal
Great review & demonstration of the products, but I feel I can get equal or better results with the products I currently use.
What do you currently use?
@@Nallenbot Vallejo Rust texture as the base with acrylic paints for the Rust & chipping set.
I am glad you got a lot out of it - Cal
I must have got a bad batch of the verdigris because mine does absolutely nothing. I've stirred it until there wasn't any thickness left, applied it thick thin, pure and watered down, dried with cold air hot air and the most I every got out of it was a single barely visible green speck. I poured some in a pool on cardboard as a test and it turned green with black edges but when normally painted onto a model it just turned into an inky black mess. It seems to work for some people but for me it nearly ruined hours of work. I went back to the tried and true verdigris method: turquoise oil paint thinned with mineral spirit. easy to apply and you know exactly what the result will be right away. Its not a black sludge that may or may not turn the color you want and if you make mistake it wipes easily away.
We have had bad experiences as we have said however following what we have suggested is the best bet in our opinion. I am sorry Stuff went sideways 😞 - Cal
good advice. thanks
Glad it was helpful! ~Sunny
Dirtying in a land down under
Where brushes glow and ravens plunder (yeah)
Can't you hear, can't you hear dat booty? (booty)
You better shake, you better take cover
- WAYPN at work
Now that's a remix I'd listen to 😝~Sunny
I met a Strange woman she made me nervous (Sunny)
She took me and gave me breakfast
And she said...
Do you come from the land down under!?
Where women blow and men plunder
Can't you hear can't you hear the thunder!
You better run you better take cover! - Cal
HELLLL YEAH
Oh yeah brother - Cal
Use a magnet at the booty of the bottle to get it moved, the shake it
An interesting idea indeed! I will attempt this magnetic booty shake you speak of, maybe Cal will find it attractive 😜 ~Sunny
@@WhatareyouPaintingnowhow did it go?
@@wingwalker007 It did not move the ball ha ha ha but it did help us locate it, because some of the times you feel crazy like is it actually in here. It's just too stuck - Cal
@@WhatareyouPaintingnow it will free it up, you just have to keep wiggling. You might need a stronger magnet too :)
Out damn spot!
Why are my fingies yellow!? - Cal
.....heat the model???? Is that why my moss looks more like contrast paint instead of actual moss. I also had no clue there was a ball in there.
Probably but it was probably primarily the lack of shaking, shaking is key and you see how much we shake in that thing, you have to shake it like it owes you money - Cal
You rock👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you very much and glad to see you on the stream - Cal
Question: so you said that after opening the bottle it will eventually lose its reactivity. Are you saying that the product will spoil after opening and becomes useless?
Opening and heating in our experience, yes. Other people may have different experiences but, that is ours - Cal
Masking fluid is too expensive and laborious, I recommend using the hairspray method for chipping :D
It is more expensive but much more controlled and allow for the double layering like we showed with a controlled application - Cal
1:110 oh my
I blame Sunny - Cal
I've played with DD rust, moss and verdigris for some time now. Combining my own experience with many guide videos - this one included - I came to the conclusion that in most cases it's just not worth it. Minding the price of the products and all the hoops you have to jump through in order to make it work, the payoff is simply not worth the effort for most mini paint jobs. And of course let's not forget that those paints reactivate with water, so if you're planning to play with your painted minis, those painstakingly created effects will rub off sooner or later. What about varnish then? That will affect the final finish and in the end you'll end up with something you could have achieved easier with acrylics anyway.
I can see using those products for a display project such as a diorama or competition/display level mini, but for army painting or painting HQ units even to a high standard you can achieve fairly similar effects faster, cheaper and without all the hassle. For rust, slightly thinned Typhus Corrosion + Fuegan orange wash + Ryza Rust drybrush produces a decent effect for most needs and adding quite thinned bright orange for accents sells the final result quite convincingly. Verdigris is equally easy: slightly thinned down Typhus corrosion + Nihilakh Oxide thinned down with water at 2:3 rate produces amazing results over bronze metallics - add accents with heavily thinned down Gauss Blaster green and you're golden.
As for moss, I don't have an alternative recipe because the DD product actually works well with minimal effort: heat up the bottle as you normally would, then apply a layer over a slightly damp surface and leave to dry. Then feather out the edges with a damp brush and for accents dab a damp brush gently where you want the green to be brighter and you're done. If I want texture, I use Typhus Corrosion first and then the moss over it when it's dry and get great results.
I was talking with another RUclipsr MishMash and he tells me for some reason Dirty Down Rust costs 20 USD over there is that right?! Because us Australians are used to getting the shaft price wise but we usually pay between 12 to 15 AUD for it... - Cal
“Dirty down under”
Dawg who starts a conversation like that 😭
(Good vid tho)
Now now I know what it sounds like, but you gotta admit it is funny 😛 ~Sunny
@@WhatareyouPaintingnow to be honest? yeah it was, and it shouldnt have been 😭
DO NOT put this in a glass container. I used an empty Tamiya Thin Cement bottle, shook it once and had the agitator shatter the bottle in my hand and weather my work laptop. And, you know, cut my hand up.
I believe that may have more to do with the bottle chosen we have done that procedure many times with the SMS bottles. But once heated we avoid holding the bottle - Cal