This worked for me! 2006 Jeep commander 4.7L 4WD. The biggest bitch was getting the heat shield off the starter, 2 bolts. I took out the 2 starter bolts first, then ajusted the starter to get to the 2 heat shield bolts. Then pushed starter forward to undo the power wires. HERE"S A BIG TIP...when I was moving the starter forward to go out axle I HAD TO INVERT, TURN THE STARTER UPSIDE DOWN, (solenoid pointing down) be patient mess around with it. MINE CAME OUT IN BACK OF THE FRONT AXLE, NOT FRONT OF! I yelled yea bitch got ya, when it came out!
Cut that push on clip off and crimp on a replacement push on connector. It is the cause of most of the starter problems, it's a low tension connector and once a little corrosion gets in there, it looses connection.
I am having the same problem on a 2006 commander. It will start then it won`t. They are saying it is the yellow wire on the starter because the connector on the end corrodes & loses connection. I never seen a vehicle that is so hard to get to what you need to get to easily ! I wish i would have looked at the layout of things since i bought it. I am almost 70 so i am not quite as cautious as i use to be. If i had looked up on you tube prior to buying to see if there was any complaints.....i would have NEVER bought this jeep. I have had starting issues with it right after i bought it & still do. I can not believe by this time jeep has not come up with a fix for this problem since so many persons has had trouble with starting issues. Where is the recall ???????/
@@darrellbeard6081 When Fiat purchased Jeep and Chrysler they cut the engineering staff as a cost cutting measure ... that's just for starters. [no pun intended] then Fiat up-cuffed everything and quality died. As to the other no start problems ... did you do the factory Key Switch Recall? There is an adjustable cable to pull in 'the damn Ralph Nader safety switch' when you turn the key in volved here. And the N-97 reflash of the computer? And the FWD Electric/Electronic motor axle pull-in-to-solenoid recall? And the second reflash? Electronics don't belong on cars that see salt and water and heat and vibration. The Feds have no business in the car business ... follow the money. Me? I'd like a starter same size in diameter but with no starter solenoid ... mount that solenoid on the fender well where a guy could short it out [make the key connection with a screw driver] when the key switch fails ... I don't like that key where you turn and let go and the starter keeps churning away until the motor start's Push to start sucks as well. Electrics has always been a problem on cars. And now electronics are a HUGE problem. Can't fix 'em. Only scan and replace components. Balder dash. I can't do 4 more years of Biden ... I want my 1962 Ford back. My 1963 Dodge Dart GT convertible back. I want my 66 Mustang back. And I want my 1957 CJ 3 A back with manual /mechanical all wheel drive hubs back. You folks can keep your Lexis crap.
I bought a new remanufactured starter and it's junk ... so a new Mitsubishi one was ordered to replace the remanufactured one. $202. No $40 core with a new starter. [4.7 liter]. Starter has to go in with the solenoid down and rotate up and into the void ... nothing really needs to be removed except the two front wheels for access. But those two 10mm bolts for the heat shield are tough. The lower one I can get to with my hand with the starter bolted in place. The upper one I could not start to thread in. Sooooo, pull the two 15mm bolts again to lower and rotate the starter into the void for access of the top 10mm heat shield bolt. The heavy power cable at this point is still lugged down horizontally with the 1/2 inch nut on the new starter. As an adder ... to make that stupid yellow wire longer ... with the new starter on the workbench, I used a fresh bayonet clip [blue sized] pushed on to the solenoid and soldered, and heat shrink insulation tube over that connection. The matching ga. wire I used was 14-inch of very flexible 600 volt wire, insulated with high-temperature silicone. It's what I use when I wire up my commercial motor starter cabinets. Then cut the original yellow wire clip off, and soldered on this new wire using a wire connector, and solder, and heat shrink tube over the whole connection. [Both ends of this 'yellow' wire are now connected, soldered, and heat shrunk at both ends with the bayonet soldered onto the solenoid]. The heavy power cable remains untouched. You need to have the heavy cable pulled down and away from the heat shield in a horizontal fashion ... and not pointing up. Do not allow the power cable to contact the heat shield. For that impossible-to-reach top heat shield 10mm bolt, I again removed the two 15mm bolts of the starter, lowering the starter and rotating the starter to get to the upper 10mm bolt, with the power cable still bolted on. You'll need lots of light. A small MagLite flashlight in your mouth, and a pile of long 3/8 inch 'rat-shit' extensions to reach about 24 inches, a 3/8 " swivel. And ??? An LED light on a magnate might help. I had the Commander's front end jacked up on jack stands on the frame pads and the floor jack aft of the transmission support under the Jeep [just in case]. Try to keep as much open floor space clear ... as you'll be moving your body between the jack stands and with your body sticking out from the front bumper and every witch way ... it will take forever with copious amount of frustration but it can be done. I did the job in two days, twice~!~! ... the starter was in and out with a few times. Not in a rush. I'm 72 years old.
The old original starter I bench tested ... the solenoid pulled in but the motor would not spin. The new-remanufactured starter spun up to speed THEN slammed the pinion into the ring gear. That was no good. The new starter works fine.
Whats that black wire on the red starter wire...I got a Customer with that black wire shorted out and her car cut off on her..the red and yellow wire gud tho..but it looks like the red wire suppose to connect to black
Sorry can’t help with the wires. It was all done by feel when disconnecting and reinstalling. I was simply showing that drive line and fender splash guard didn’t need to be removed.
You might have to use a flat head to push down on the tab. Good luck, I'm going to have to do this again this spring because this new starter malfunctions in the cold.
Did not work for me 2008 4.7L engine. 2022-Feb notes: COMMANDER 4.7 not 3.7, not 5.7 my 2008 4.7 4dr 4wd had to replace the starter, so decided to drop drive shaft. Should have done that FIRST, wasted a lot of time doing other things. Once I did drop the shaft, access to old starter was much much better. 0 - Disconnect battery. 1 - Raise driver front wheel and put 2 jack stands underneath for safety. chock rear wheel and use emergency brake unless frozen/dead from rust. 2 - Put transmission in neutral. This allows you to spin front left wheel to get to driveshaft bolts. 3 - mark driveshaft alignment before removing any bolts. remove/lower front driveshaft. Do NOT remove rock guard or inner fender plastic or wheel/tire, not needed. 4 - Disconnect 13mm power wire from old starter, and squeeze trigger wire off old starter, 5 - Using long 12-24 inches of 3/8 extensions and wobble extensions remove 2 starter 15mm mounting bolts. 6 - you can now lower old starter WITH HEAT SHIELD ATTACHED thru driveshaft area. NOTE:: front driveshaft uses 2 sizes of bolts to connect to front axle and transfer case Transfer case bolts are the shorter ones. Longer in front, shorter in rear. No need to remove wheel No need remove plastic inner liner No need remove rock guard (but it is easy 2 bolts. More visibility. Hope this helps
This worked for me! 2006 Jeep commander 4.7L 4WD. The biggest bitch was getting the heat shield off the starter, 2 bolts. I took out
the 2 starter bolts first, then ajusted the starter to get to the 2 heat shield bolts. Then pushed starter forward to undo the power wires.
HERE"S A BIG TIP...when I was moving the starter forward to go out axle I HAD TO INVERT, TURN THE STARTER UPSIDE DOWN, (solenoid pointing down) be patient mess around with it. MINE CAME OUT IN BACK OF THE FRONT AXLE, NOT FRONT OF! I yelled
yea bitch got ya, when it came out!
That's what I did also
Cut that push on clip off and crimp on a replacement push on connector. It is the cause of most of the starter problems, it's a low tension connector and once a little corrosion gets in there, it looses connection.
I am having the same problem on a 2006 commander. It will start then it won`t. They are saying it is the yellow wire on the starter because the connector on the end corrodes & loses connection. I never seen a vehicle that is so hard to get to what you need to get to easily ! I wish i would have looked at the layout of things since i bought it. I am almost 70 so i am not quite as cautious as i use to be. If i had looked up on you tube prior to buying to see if there was any complaints.....i would have NEVER bought this jeep. I have had starting issues with it right after i bought it & still do. I can not believe by this time jeep has not come up with a fix for this problem since so many persons has had trouble with starting issues. Where is the recall ???????/
@@darrellbeard6081 When Fiat purchased Jeep and Chrysler they cut the engineering staff as a cost cutting measure ... that's just for starters. [no pun intended] then Fiat up-cuffed everything and quality died. As to the other no start problems ... did you do the factory Key Switch Recall? There is an adjustable cable to pull in 'the damn Ralph Nader safety switch' when you turn the key in volved here. And the N-97 reflash of the computer? And the FWD Electric/Electronic motor axle pull-in-to-solenoid recall? And the second reflash? Electronics don't belong on cars that see salt and water and heat and vibration. The Feds have no business in the car business ... follow the money.
Me? I'd like a starter same size in diameter but with no starter solenoid ... mount that solenoid on the fender well where a guy could short it out [make the key connection with a screw driver] when the key switch fails ... I don't like that key where you turn and let go and the starter keeps churning away until the motor start's Push to start sucks as well.
Electrics has always been a problem on cars. And now electronics are a HUGE problem. Can't fix 'em. Only scan and replace components. Balder dash. I can't do 4 more years of Biden ...
I want my 1962 Ford back. My 1963 Dodge Dart GT convertible back. I want my 66 Mustang back. And I want my 1957 CJ 3 A back with manual /mechanical all wheel drive hubs back.
You folks can keep your Lexis crap.
I bought a new remanufactured starter and it's junk ... so a new Mitsubishi one was ordered to replace the remanufactured one. $202. No $40 core with a new starter. [4.7 liter].
Starter has to go in with the solenoid down and rotate up and into the void ... nothing really needs to be removed except the two front wheels for access. But those two 10mm bolts for the heat shield are tough. The lower one I can get to with my hand with the starter bolted in place. The upper one I could not start to thread in. Sooooo, pull the two 15mm bolts again to lower and rotate the starter into the void for access of the top 10mm heat shield bolt. The heavy power cable at this point is still lugged down horizontally with the 1/2 inch nut on the new starter.
As an adder ... to make that stupid yellow wire longer ... with the new starter on the workbench, I used a fresh bayonet clip [blue sized] pushed on to the solenoid and soldered, and heat shrink insulation tube over that connection. The matching ga. wire I used was 14-inch of very flexible 600 volt wire, insulated with high-temperature silicone. It's what I use when I wire up my commercial motor starter cabinets.
Then cut the original yellow wire clip off, and soldered on this new wire using a wire connector, and solder, and heat shrink tube over the whole connection.
[Both ends of this 'yellow' wire are now connected, soldered, and heat shrunk at both ends with the bayonet soldered onto the solenoid].
The heavy power cable remains untouched. You need to have the heavy cable pulled down and away from the heat shield in a horizontal fashion ... and not pointing up. Do not allow the power cable to contact the heat shield.
For that impossible-to-reach top heat shield 10mm bolt, I again removed the two 15mm bolts of the starter, lowering the starter and rotating the starter to get to the upper 10mm bolt, with the power cable still bolted on.
You'll need lots of light. A small MagLite flashlight in your mouth, and a pile of long 3/8 inch 'rat-shit' extensions to reach about 24 inches, a 3/8 " swivel. And ??? An LED light on a magnate might help.
I had the Commander's front end jacked up on jack stands on the frame pads and the floor jack aft of the transmission support under the Jeep [just in case]. Try to keep as much open floor space clear ... as you'll be moving your body between the jack stands and with your body sticking out from the front bumper and every witch way ... it will take forever with copious amount of frustration but it can be done. I did the job in two days, twice~!~! ... the starter was in and out with a few times.
Not in a rush. I'm 72 years old.
The old original starter I bench tested ... the solenoid pulled in but the motor would not spin.
The new-remanufactured starter spun up to speed THEN slammed the pinion into the ring gear. That was no good.
The new starter works fine.
It's Miller time or Landshark time or whatever you like time Thank You Very Helpful
Hopefully this works for the 3.7. thanks again!!
Did it?!
I can confirm it does...replaced mine this morning.
Whats that black wire on the red starter wire...I got a Customer with that black wire shorted out and her car cut off on her..the red and yellow wire gud tho..but it looks like the red wire suppose to connect to black
Sorry can’t help with the wires. It was all done by feel when disconnecting and reinstalling. I was simply showing that drive line and fender splash guard didn’t need to be removed.
Is the starter on the driver or passenger side
Drivers side
What’s the best aftermarket starter for 06 commander 4.7L? Or do you suggest OEM?
I used a remanufacturer it’s up to your preference and budget
Wow I have noway to get this out
how did you remove the yellow clip from the solenoid
I was able to get it out but now I can't get the new one back in.
I'm having a hard time removing the yellow one. Its loose but won't slide out.
You might have to use a flat head to push down on the tab. Good luck, I'm going to have to do this again this spring because this new starter malfunctions in the cold.
Dave B. Sorry to hear that.
Cut the SOB off and solder on a new longer wire with a new bayoneted clip.
Did not work for me 2008 4.7L engine.
2022-Feb notes: COMMANDER 4.7 not 3.7, not 5.7
my 2008 4.7 4dr 4wd had to replace the starter, so decided to drop drive shaft.
Should have done that FIRST, wasted a lot of time doing other things.
Once I did drop the shaft, access to old starter was much much better.
0 - Disconnect battery.
1 - Raise driver front wheel and put 2 jack stands underneath for safety. chock rear wheel and use emergency brake unless frozen/dead from rust.
2 - Put transmission in neutral. This allows you to spin front left wheel to get to driveshaft bolts.
3 - mark driveshaft alignment before removing any bolts. remove/lower front driveshaft. Do NOT remove rock guard or inner fender plastic or wheel/tire, not needed.
4 - Disconnect 13mm power wire from old starter, and squeeze trigger wire off old starter,
5 - Using long 12-24 inches of 3/8 extensions and wobble extensions remove 2 starter 15mm mounting bolts.
6 - you can now lower old starter WITH HEAT SHIELD ATTACHED thru driveshaft area.
NOTE::
front driveshaft uses 2 sizes of bolts to connect to front axle and transfer case Transfer case bolts are the shorter ones. Longer in front, shorter in rear.
No need to remove wheel
No need remove plastic inner liner
No need remove rock guard (but it is easy 2 bolts. More visibility.
Hope this helps
Just disconnect the drive shaft up front snd go around it nobody is about to do all this extra shit that’s just more work