Legend! The most straight forward guide to this job out there. Saved me a bunch of stress as I sliced a CV boot removing the subframe to change the clutch and rear main seal. Really didnt want a long ass job to add to the list, nice one!
Thanks for the guide! Just a note: instead of removing the 19mm ball joint bolt and following it up with a barrage of hammer hits to get it loose, you can remove the two 13mm bolts to the left and right of it and lightly tap it with a hammer. It'll come loose with much less muscle :)
Just the way I'm going to do it on jcw cooper 2003,after wasting a day and sticking my fingers together trying the split and glue type,never right,doing it tomorrow ,great vid,I'd have put a bit of locktight on the axle nut,and bent the tab in,or centre pot the tread next to the tightened axle nut,great vid pal,use what you've you have to hand,👌
Me @ beginning of video: hmm, what's this "side cutter?" Me @ end of video: holy crap you can use a side cutter for everything! Great vid, walked me through it in a super simple way. I don't have a side cutter (see above), I was able to remove the old band with a screwdriver and hammer and cut the old boot with a tin snip. Thanks for posting.
Definitely the easiest and very best way to disengage a CV axle in order to repack them with high velocity moly grease and both inner and outer regular rubber/neoprene boots. Well done!
Great video. I had this done to my car and after a while due to the tech not using a metal tightener on the cv boot he used a plastic tightener the large part of the boot came off, I went out and used a different tech and he was able to replace the plastic tightener with the metal ones as you show, however after tightening the metal ones around the large round part of the boot, he showed me that no matter how tight he made it if we pulled on the boot hard enough it would come off. He said it shouldn’t come off due to being a metal tightener it should stay on? Is he correct? Should I be able to pull the bc boot from the wide round part off with a bit of pressure or was it intended to be that way? Let me know asap. Thanks, Ralph Colome.
I'm not sure right off hand how yours looks, but generally they are tight enough that you couldn't pull it off by hand. I'm not sure what's happening with yours. I would just keep an eye on it and see what happens.
@@MrCoreyMartin Thanks. You’re right tomorrow I’m taking it to my regular tech that has the correct tool to tighten it. I had it originally done by a guy that does soldering and he said he could do it and my tech told me that it took special tool, not a pair of pliers.😂🥵Oh well? We win some lose some. 👍
Currently 294,000 KM. I'm not sure when the job was done, I'm guessing around 235,000 KM. If everything goes well it shouldn't take more then an hour. I have a Snap-On Battery Impact it works well and I've had it over 5 years, but it wasn't cheap when I bought it.
The video was OK but you forgot the very most important safety aspect. You did not crimp the metal into the groove that stops the locking nut from becoming loose. DANGEROUS mistake..
I don't even own a Mini. But I had a beer and watched this. Thanks!
Legend! The most straight forward guide to this job out there. Saved me a bunch of stress as I sliced a CV boot removing the subframe to change the clutch and rear main seal. Really didnt want a long ass job to add to the list, nice one!
Great video! Thanks Corey for taking the time to help us all out 👍
I'm going to do this to my car this weekend. This video is very clear and easy to follow. Hopefully my replacement goes as smoothly as yours did!
Thanks for the guide!
Just a note: instead of removing the 19mm ball joint bolt and following it up with a barrage of hammer hits to get it loose, you can remove the two 13mm bolts to the left and right of it and lightly tap it with a hammer. It'll come loose with much less muscle :)
Just the way I'm going to do it on jcw cooper 2003,after wasting a day and sticking my fingers together trying the split and glue type,never right,doing it tomorrow ,great vid,I'd have put a bit of locktight on the axle nut,and bent the tab in,or centre pot the tread next to the tightened axle nut,great vid pal,use what you've you have to hand,👌
Me @ beginning of video: hmm, what's this "side cutter?" Me @ end of video: holy crap you can use a side cutter for everything! Great vid, walked me through it in a super simple way. I don't have a side cutter (see above), I was able to remove the old band with a screwdriver and hammer and cut the old boot with a tin snip. Thanks for posting.
Definitely the easiest and very best way to disengage a CV axle in order to repack them with high velocity moly grease and both inner and outer regular rubber/neoprene boots. Well done!
On the drive shaft nut you forgot to hammer the tab in so it will not come loose
This guy is just like me, "If you have the tool", which I don't 😂😂
LOOKS EASY IM GOING TO TRY IT THX FOR THE VIDEO MATE.
Awesome ! Thx for the video buddy !
Great video. I had this done to my car and after a while due to the tech not using a metal tightener on the cv boot he used a plastic tightener the large part of the boot came off, I went out and used a different tech and he was able to replace the plastic tightener with the metal ones as you show, however after tightening the metal ones around the large round part of the boot, he showed me that no matter how tight he made it if we pulled on the boot hard enough it would come off. He said it shouldn’t come off due to being a metal tightener it should stay on? Is he correct? Should I be able to pull the bc boot from the wide round part off with a bit of pressure or was it intended to be that way? Let me know asap. Thanks, Ralph Colome.
I'm not sure right off hand how yours looks, but generally they are tight enough that you couldn't pull it off by hand. I'm not sure what's happening with yours. I would just keep an eye on it and see what happens.
@@MrCoreyMartin Thanks. You’re right tomorrow I’m taking it to my regular tech that has the correct tool to tighten it. I had it originally done by a guy that does soldering and he said he could do it and my tech told me that it took special tool, not a pair of pliers.😂🥵Oh well? We win some lose some. 👍
Thanks for the video, made it look easy.
Thank you for the amazing vide
My bearing won't go back on far enough to get the snap ring back on.
Good video. How many miles on the car?, Approx time for job?, What brand of battery impact tool?
Currently 294,000 KM. I'm not sure when the job was done, I'm guessing around 235,000 KM. If everything goes well it shouldn't take more then an hour. I have a Snap-On Battery Impact it works well and I've had it over 5 years, but it wasn't cheap when I bought it.
The video was OK but you forgot the very most important safety aspect. You did not crimp the metal into the groove that stops the locking nut from becoming loose. DANGEROUS mistake..
Your absolutely correct! and that's why at 14:38 it says in large bold letters "Redent the axle nut after torquing it!!"