Honestly, as someone who's led 5.12, I absolutely love Corrugation Corner. It's an absolutely beautiful climb, and reminds you that chasing ratings can just be dumb. It's all about enjoying where you are, how you're moving, and whom you're with. Love this climb!
One of the finest 5.7's you'll ever do anywhere. The dihedral sections are a joy, you get some wonderful face climbing that (IMO) is well protected, and as the vid points out, while the arete is "only" 5.7 the exposure will "get your attention." Oh, and did I mention that you get the joy of routefinding on what appears to be an obvious route? Yeah...
The first pitch felt like the best warm up at the leap. There's so many options, easy stemming for all day rests and infinite gear options. I'm curious about what you thought of the traverse on pitch 3 however. I pulled on that same sloper I see in your video, made the same grunt once I got across, and it felt like I was a little high up for sticking with the 5.7 grade. If I dropped down a dike after clipping the pin, I think the hand and footholds would have been more than enough to get across in a second. Instead it took around a minute as I searched over mostly blank wall. Good feet, but the extra exposure and the possible swing back into the chimney definitely got me putting a piece in once I got across, which of course led to massive rope drag later in the pitch. Amazing route however, can't wait to do this one again, and hopefully a little cleaner.
I'm kinda with you on that 3rd pitch. I didn't think the first two were that bad but the traverse after the chimney was the most exposed and insecure on the route. I was happy I was following for sure, but if I biffed it, there was certainly going to be an unpleasant swing into the corner.
@@Wanksteez It looked like your partner resisted the urge to put a piece in right away to avoid that swing somewhat. Me.. not so much. I plugged on in right away. Just put a quick clip of my crossing here ruclips.net/video/ja9taNZNjEc/видео.html Enjoying your channel, keep it up!
That and Bears' Reach are the best routes. Glad I live in Placerville. We try to hit the Leap once a week. Nice shots. The chimney is okay but stepping out of the chimney and on to the ledge to traverse....that is a bit spooky!
Honestly, as someone who's led 5.12, I absolutely love Corrugation Corner. It's an absolutely beautiful climb, and reminds you that chasing ratings can just be dumb. It's all about enjoying where you are, how you're moving, and whom you're with. Love this climb!
Very nice climb - I love to experience these routes that I would never do through your videos. Nice explanations ! thx
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it!
Amaaaaazing!
Thanks!! Have you ever done this one?
love your edits man, keep up the good work
Thanks so much, glad you are enjoy them. Hope you are getting out there and adventuring yourself as well.
🔥❤️🔥
Really great footage!
Thanks!
One of the finest 5.7's you'll ever do anywhere. The dihedral sections are a joy, you get some wonderful face climbing that (IMO) is well protected, and as the vid points out, while the arete is "only" 5.7 the exposure will "get your attention." Oh, and did I mention that you get the joy of routefinding on what appears to be an obvious route? Yeah...
The first pitch felt like the best warm up at the leap. There's so many options, easy stemming for all day rests and infinite gear options. I'm curious about what you thought of the traverse on pitch 3 however. I pulled on that same sloper I see in your video, made the same grunt once I got across, and it felt like I was a little high up for sticking with the 5.7 grade. If I dropped down a dike after clipping the pin, I think the hand and footholds would have been more than enough to get across in a second. Instead it took around a minute as I searched over mostly blank wall. Good feet, but the extra exposure and the possible swing back into the chimney definitely got me putting a piece in once I got across, which of course led to massive rope drag later in the pitch. Amazing route however, can't wait to do this one again, and hopefully a little cleaner.
I'm kinda with you on that 3rd pitch. I didn't think the first two were that bad but the traverse after the chimney was the most exposed and insecure on the route. I was happy I was following for sure, but if I biffed it, there was certainly going to be an unpleasant swing into the corner.
@@Wanksteez It looked like your partner resisted the urge to put a piece in right away to avoid that swing somewhat. Me.. not so much. I plugged on in right away. Just put a quick clip of my crossing here ruclips.net/video/ja9taNZNjEc/видео.html Enjoying your channel, keep it up!
That and Bears' Reach are the best routes. Glad I live in Placerville. We try to hit the Leap once a week.
Nice shots. The chimney is okay but stepping out of the chimney and on to the ledge to traverse....that is a bit spooky!
Did you place 0 gear on that first pitch haha
I placed enough, it was super cruiser 5.6 and I was feeling good from the past few days of climbing so it didn't feel particularly unsafe.