Dez..you da man !! Yet another pearl of wisdom from the House of Power ! Old skool rocks. Now... what you need to do is market these ... !! No batteries to go flat ... no LASER to fail ...
@@PowerRepublic i got a tonykart viper chasis with TKM bt82 engine on it. not actually competing at the moment as i am getting up to speed in maintenance and tuning, besides finances after getting the kart mean i need to save up until it actually makes sense to race propperly.
We used to also measure from the rear axle to the centre of the stub axle to ensure that we had everything square on zero tow, then adjust from there. DPE with Kartech brand used to have the alignment bars available fairly cheap back in the day that everyone used.
Hey mate, yeah I just adjust them so that there is light pressure on the red steering bush and its holds the steering shaft straight. thanks for tuning in. Did you watch last weeks video about the Fast Adjusters? pretty cool invention IMO
Thanks. Very helpfull. I just was wondering if your kart isn’t symetrical how do you get it back to symetrical. Is it middle of the steering shaft or do you measure from the frame? Thanks Martijn Geven.
thanks for tuning in Martijn. you can do either, I use the straight edge to get a close measurement to centre. if you wanted to get fancy you could remove the side pods and measure back to the rear axle.
On my kart, for caster/camber adjustment, i upgraded my dot 3 adjuster on the 8mm kingpin to dot 5 at top and bottom with the 10mm kingpin. I can adjust the camber and caster far better and not compromise. I have seen a replacement for the dot 5 which is made by sniper which gives independant adjustment. Have you done a vid on those??
Great video, just made mine! Some great observations from others in comments too! Unrelated, do you grease the stub axle before putting front hub on? Or just front hub bearings? Thanks S usual!!
For toe-in/toe-out - won't the mm measurement depend also on how far out on the aluminum bar you measure from? Further from the axle will give a bigger reading, closer in, smaller - how far from the axle should you measure to equal what the Sniper reads?
Hey Guy, that's a great comment. we used 300mm long bars for this example, and I'm not sure how much longer or shorter you could use. but it was pretty close for an easy solution if you didn't have any snipers
@@PowerRepublic thanks for the quick reply - I probably didn’t make it clear; if you measure closer to the axle vs out near the end of the 300mm bar, the measurements could be very different. In order to get similar readings using this method vs Sniper, how far out on a 300mm bar would you measure?
all good, not sure as I only guessed at the approximate measurement. I would guess about 130-150mm from centre line of the stub axle would be close to the sniper measurements
@@PowerRepublic Amazing videos, thumbs up from Denmark :) The correct way to measure toe in/out with the alu bar would be to cut the bar to lenght similar to diameter of wheel. And the measure at the end of the bar
Hello, I would like to be able to ask you what effect the positive camber \ _ / has on curves. That is, more open at the top. I suppose the front end grips more. It is right? Thank you so much! greetings from Argentina!
I have a question: Would you rather recommend getting a chassis from a popular brand (CRG, KR, BirelArt, etc.) but you have to order your spare part from abroad or rather a chassis which your local shops are running but aren‘t that known? Thank you for your response! Keep up with the videos!!!
well it depends on how serious the racing in your area is. If everyone has the same local chassis and imported chassis are used, I would go with the local stuff. seems like it would make sense. otherwise if you have heaps of money to import all the spares and frames from Italy, get yourself a Tony Kart and be happy 😊
Super freaking cool, I think I’m going to make some. Could you do a video on why a cart doesn’t really want to turn left. My kart turns right fine but when it tries to turn left the tire skid across the ground for a second and then it grabs and I turn left. Why is that?
Hey Alex. Thanks for tuning in. If she’s not brand new, maybe it has a small bend in the frame or something isn’t straight. Plus also you could check your corner weights with the bathroom scales.
Say if you move both wheel to the left, they would still get 90 - 90 front and back but the kart wont go straight. How do i make sure the wheel is pointing 100% forward? Thanks 🎉
you need to check if wither the front (or back) of both of the "wheels" (bars in this case) are the same distance from the other side's kingpin bolt. you measure from the rear/front of the right side wheel/bar to the left side kingpin bolt. viceversa for the other side. if you get the same number then the steering wheel is centered relative to the rest of the steering components and you can start messing around with toe and whatnot
Terrific content again team. Would love you to do a mychron 5 vs alfano 6. Pros and cons of both. Im keen to update my old alfano to a gps unit. Fyi it's going on a briggs.. Keep up the great work, love all your vids.
But should you take measurement from a specific distance along the bar from the centre of the axle? Cos let's say you measure 1 meter away from centre at the front and 30 cm from centre at the back. I don't think it will end up being just a couple mm. So you should be measuring the exact distance from centre axle on each side of the bar
great point, make sure you drill the hole in the centre as close as possible and then take your measurements as close to the ends of the bars as possible. otherwise save up and buy the magnetic sniper aligners, they are way better and faster IMO
When you measured the toe out, you said you had 4mm of variation from front to back. But the snipers then said you only had 1mm toe out. Im a little confused.
Dez..you da man !! Yet another pearl of wisdom from the House of Power ! Old skool rocks. Now... what you need to do is market these ... !! No batteries to go flat ... no LASER to fail ...
Craig that is such a great idea, not sure of the sales volumes but we can give it a go...
Very practical and easy. Thank you 🎉
Thanks heaps for watching!! 👍
Hi Derek, great alternative tool that will help me a lot. Thanks for sharing your karting knowledge. Excellent channel !!
Hey Gas, thanks for tuning in and you are very welcome. What kart are you racing at the moment? Better be a Tony kart 😉
@@PowerRepublic Of course Derek, its a Tony Kart Racer 401 (2017) My favorite chasis ever !! ☺👊
@@gastonthompson5143 💯💯💯💯
this is actually great cause i was looking at alignment snipers and they are quite bit expensive xD Such a simple and great alternative!
yeah LGN, I was definitely surprised. what type of karting are you racing?
@@PowerRepublic i got a tonykart viper chasis with TKM bt82 engine on it. not actually competing at the moment as i am getting up to speed in maintenance and tuning, besides finances after getting the kart mean i need to save up until it actually makes sense to race propperly.
@@KazPeRinzky legit!
You can for sure be accurate with very simple tools. The lasers just make it quick. I’m never usually aligning in a rush.
We used to also measure from the rear axle to the centre of the stub axle to ensure that we had everything square on zero tow, then adjust from there. DPE with Kartech brand used to have the alignment bars available fairly cheap back in the day that everyone used.
Yeah the ol school method still works eh !
🥇Thanks
thanks for watching and the little bonus!!!! Legendary
Thanks a lot for this instruction!! Priceless👍
Your welcome, thanks for tuning in and subscribing
Thanks a lot man, really helpful!!!
Thanks for tuning in Bro 😎
How do you lock the steering with the vice grips? Do you just put them in the red bushing? Great video
Hey mate, yeah I just adjust them so that there is light pressure on the red steering bush and its holds the steering shaft straight. thanks for tuning in. Did you watch last weeks video about the Fast Adjusters? pretty cool invention IMO
@@PowerRepublic thanks, yes I did. Very cool
Thanks. Very helpfull.
I just was wondering if your kart isn’t symetrical how do you get it back to symetrical. Is it middle of the steering shaft or do you measure from the frame?
Thanks Martijn Geven.
thanks for tuning in Martijn. you can do either, I use the straight edge to get a close measurement to centre. if you wanted to get fancy you could remove the side pods and measure back to the rear axle.
On my kart, for caster/camber adjustment, i upgraded my dot 3 adjuster on the 8mm kingpin to dot 5 at top and bottom with the 10mm kingpin. I can adjust the camber and caster far better and not compromise. I have seen a replacement for the dot 5 which is made by sniper which gives independant adjustment. Have you done a vid on those??
Hey Chris, yeah they are awesome, but I haven't done a video on them. they come standard on CRG I believe and use them a bit on customers karts.
Great video, just made mine! Some great observations from others in comments too!
Unrelated, do you grease the stub axle before putting front hub on? Or just front hub bearings? Thanks S usual!!
I think you answered this for someone....wd40?
yeah WD is the go
For toe-in/toe-out - won't the mm measurement depend also on how far out on the aluminum bar you measure from? Further from the axle will give a bigger reading, closer in, smaller - how far from the axle should you measure to equal what the Sniper reads?
Hey Guy, that's a great comment. we used 300mm long bars for this example, and I'm not sure how much longer or shorter you could use. but it was pretty close for an easy solution if you didn't have any snipers
@@PowerRepublic thanks for the quick reply - I probably didn’t make it clear; if you measure closer to the axle vs out near the end of the 300mm bar, the measurements could be very different. In order to get similar readings using this method vs Sniper, how far out on a 300mm bar would you measure?
all good, not sure as I only guessed at the approximate measurement. I would guess about 130-150mm from centre line of the stub axle would be close to the sniper measurements
@@PowerRepublic Amazing videos, thumbs up from Denmark :) The correct way to measure toe in/out with the alu bar would be to cut the bar to lenght similar to diameter of wheel. And the measure at the end of the bar
@@martinbjerre2242 thanks for the hot tip. we made them 300mm which would be close to wheel diameter, but that was more fluke than educated guess.
Hello, I would like to be able to ask you what effect the positive camber \ _ / has on curves. That is, more open at the top. I suppose the front end grips more. It is right? Thank you so much! greetings from Argentina!
Let me check
Спасибо. То что нужно!
✌️
I have a question: Would you rather recommend getting a chassis from a popular brand (CRG, KR, BirelArt, etc.) but you have to order your spare part from abroad or rather a chassis which your local shops are running but aren‘t that known?
Thank you for your response! Keep up with the videos!!!
well it depends on how serious the racing in your area is. If everyone has the same local chassis and imported chassis are used, I would go with the local stuff. seems like it would make sense. otherwise if you have heaps of money to import all the spares and frames from Italy, get yourself a Tony Kart and be happy 😊
@@PowerRepublic thank you very much! This is very helpful for me!
Super freaking cool, I think I’m going to make some. Could you do a video on why a cart doesn’t really want to turn left. My kart turns right fine but when it tries to turn left the tire skid across the ground for a second and then it grabs and I turn left. Why is that?
Hey Alex. Thanks for tuning in. If she’s not brand new, maybe it has a small bend in the frame or something isn’t straight. Plus also you could check your corner weights with the bathroom scales.
@@PowerRepublic Awsome, great to know. Thank you so much!!!! You guys do amazing work!!!!!
@@alexraccuia7550 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Say if you move both wheel to the left, they would still get 90 - 90 front and back but the kart wont go straight. How do i make sure the wheel is pointing 100% forward? Thanks 🎉
you need to check if wither the front (or back) of both of the "wheels" (bars in this case) are the same distance from the other side's kingpin bolt. you measure from the rear/front of the right side wheel/bar to the left side kingpin bolt. viceversa for the other side. if you get the same number then the steering wheel is centered relative to the rest of the steering components and you can start messing around with toe and whatnot
Great video being a dirt karter couldn't justify lasers
Yeah I reckon, and it’s ‘nearly’ as close as the lasers
Terrific content again team.
Would love you to do a mychron 5 vs alfano 6. Pros and cons of both. Im keen to update my old alfano to a gps unit. Fyi it's going on a briggs..
Keep up the great work, love all your vids.
Great idea. Both are great units. If your rocking the ALFANO already I would stay with new ALFANO 6, they are epic.
But should you take measurement from a specific distance along the bar from the centre of the axle? Cos let's say you measure 1 meter away from centre at the front and 30 cm from centre at the back. I don't think it will end up being just a couple mm. So you should be measuring the exact distance from centre axle on each side of the bar
great point, make sure you drill the hole in the centre as close as possible and then take your measurements as close to the ends of the bars as possible. otherwise save up and buy the magnetic sniper aligners, they are way better and faster IMO
What about caster? Can you check it without the sniper
Where could I get the metal to make this from?
www.shapealuminium.net.au/50x50x6-aluminium-heavy-angle
When you measured the toe out, you said you had 4mm of variation from front to back. But the snipers then said you only had 1mm toe out. Im a little confused.
The plates he used are much wider than the wheels so they show more variance for the same angle.
you meassure 90 from the aluminiun to where?
to the same point on the other stub axle. then compare the front measurement to the back measurement. Boom!