Thank you for this very in-depth video, now I am going to dig out my old washing machine universal motor and make a triac dimmer to construct a multi purpose shop blower with parts from old vacuum cleaner with impeller
6:40 When you want to use a series wound universal/DC motor, you should use the tach to ensure that the maximum safe speed of the motor is not exceeded. Running such a motor open loop (no control system to regulate speed) especially with a light to no load can result in the motor going WAY too fast and accelerate wear and tear and possibly risk catastrophic failure of the motor. Photonicindcution style. In this case you use the tach to control perhaps a PI control loop that controls the duty cycle of a H bridge. This has the added benefit of speed regulation, though not as tight as would be achieved with a shunt-wound DC motor with a control loop.
Agreed, was thinking the same thing. In DC mode, it's really easy for it to go boom if not controlled properly. I seen one video quite some time ago where they applied DC power and just let the thing go. Kept raising the voltage. When it blew apart it was like a bomb went off
@@korishan that sound more exciting than all the washer/dryer motors that phonticinduction ever blew up! His the brushes and commutator just go kablewy
You guys do understand it’s just an old washing machine motor right? Give the guy a break. He was trying to explain basic universal AC-DC motor theory to laymen not trying to foresee all the tiniest details the armchair Karen’s out there could pick apart to make themselves feel superior. I like how the Karen you beat to the punch of ridiculous knit picking praised you saying “that’s right and……” trying to scrape up his own stupid detail to add. Boy sure would hate to overspeed that old video teaching prop! Who knows, atmospheric ions in his vicinity could form an oscillating slip Attracted to negatively charged photons and disrupt the neighborhood direct TV signal causing disasters of e pic RPM proportions
11:27 if you don't have a load on the motor, it will just use the loss power from the friction, which is very less, if you would burden the motor, the power consumption would automatically increase, because the higher the motor is burdened, the lower is the speed, and the lower the speed is, the smaller is the impedance of the rotor coils because of the lower frequency of the alternating current (the coils on the rotor have alternating current because of the brushes).
Great video! For more power in DC mode you could connect the static coils in parallel instead of series. Also it would be cool to see what happens when different voltages are applied to static coils vs rotating, and finally, can it be used as a generator?!
In that case you end up with what's called a shunt wound DC motor, which has a really cool property that it spins at nearly constant speed regardless of the load! These are commonly used in applications where you need very high speed regulation. (like a lathe, or machinery) The amount of voltage applied controls the speed and the current drawn is proportional to the load on the motor. When used as a series motor, the speed is inversely proportional to the load (torque). Assuming no friction or windage losses (air drag) the no-load speed would theoretically be infinite. Also the stall torque is going to be very high. This has to do with the EMF of the rotor subtracting voltage away from the stator windings. At stall, there is no back EMF and the current in the stator and rotor are limited by DC resistance of the coils and brushes, leading to maximum torque. As the motor speeds up, the back EMF on the rotor means there is less voltage on the stator coil, which causes field weakening, which (counterintuitively) means the motor speeds up more! The series wound DC motor clearly has very poor speed regulation inherently. But the property of speed and torque curve makes it useful for EV's. This is commonly the motor type that is used in golf carts for instance, as the higher torque at lower speeds allows for climbing hills and higher speeds and lower torque for cruising on flat road at higher speeds, without the need for a transmission or CVT.
@@power-max nice explanation of basic motor theory. I learned a lot of this while building a DC/arduino control board for a washing-machine, for off-grid power and custom wash cycles. I found that much easier than using the tacho for wash speed control, as is normal for washing-machines, lifting the stator-rotor connection to a fixed voltage accross the stator (10V) fixed a minimum current (5A) through it and gave that stable voltage controlled speed dynamic that you mentioned of shunt wiring, without losing the soft low-speed startup of series winding. Gradually reducing that fixed stator voltage as the rotor voltage increased opened it back up again for the spin to get to full speed at about 200V. (motor wound for european voltages) to (maybe?) clarify the explanation: the voltage across a series motor is split into three: the resistive drop in the stator, the resistive drop in the rotor, and the back EMF (generated voltage) in the rotor due to its spinning in the stator field. These three always add up to the applied voltage. The current through the rotor and stator define the strengths of their respective magnetic fields, and therefore the strength of the force between them (torque), which is the product (multiply) of them both. The back EMF in the rotor is similarly the product of the rate of rotation and the stator field strength. When the motor is first started, 0rpm, the applied voltage is entirely met by the winding resistance, so the current is at it's maximum and so is the torque, but as soon as the motor starts to spin, back EMF (generated voltage) in the rotor starts to take voltage away from the coil resistance reducing current and therefore the torque (by current squared). But since this means the stator current is reducing, that also reduces the back EMF, meaning that the current and torque isn't reduced by as much, and it keeps getting faster. eventually the motor reaches a speed where the reducing torque meets the increasing mechanical load and the system stabilizes, but if the mechanical resistance is low, since the speed is proportional to the voltage divided by the current (another way to state that the generated voltage is proportional to speed times current), with very little current (due to low torque requirement) you get very much speed.
Unfortunately, you fail to explain why the motor can run on both AC and DC and how to reverse the rotation. Because the polarity of both the field and armature are both changed, the rotation remains the same. That's why it can run on AC. To reverse the rotation, you need to change the polarity of just the field coils, or just the armature.
He did not explain because he probably does not know. In this video he explained nothing. He just applied power after a quick google search to see what were the 2 wires out of the seven. What a useless video!!
great video!! well explained! is it possible to create a huge dc pwm dimmer to control speed or it just better control in ac with angle phase control ?
so is this motor actually AC or DC motor, because if works on DC than it would change the rotation direction with negative supply, then how does it work with AC voltage?? i am curious.
How to separate or remove the white plastic sensor that is glued or attached to the rotor shaft without breaking it? Could someone answer this question for me?
I welcome the author of the channel and his audience, I am a member of the armed forces of Ukraine, I would like to apply for material assistance to my unit, if possible, write in the comments. Thank you
Universal Motor Here: ebay.us/U3JRIb
My Tools: bit.ly/3uv8bc3
Help me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/ELECTRONOOBS
Thank you for this very in-depth video, now I am going to dig out my old washing machine universal motor and make a triac dimmer to construct a multi purpose shop blower with parts from old vacuum cleaner with impeller
6:40 When you want to use a series wound universal/DC motor, you should use the tach to ensure that the maximum safe speed of the motor is not exceeded. Running such a motor open loop (no control system to regulate speed) especially with a light to no load can result in the motor going WAY too fast and accelerate wear and tear and possibly risk catastrophic failure of the motor. Photonicindcution style.
In this case you use the tach to control perhaps a PI control loop that controls the duty cycle of a H bridge. This has the added benefit of speed regulation, though not as tight as would be achieved with a shunt-wound DC motor with a control loop.
Agreed, was thinking the same thing. In DC mode, it's really easy for it to go boom if not controlled properly.
I seen one video quite some time ago where they applied DC power and just let the thing go. Kept raising the voltage. When it blew apart it was like a bomb went off
@@korishan that sound more exciting than all the washer/dryer motors that phonticinduction ever blew up! His the brushes and commutator just go kablewy
You guys do understand it’s just an old washing machine motor right? Give the guy a break. He was trying to explain basic universal AC-DC motor theory to laymen not trying to foresee all the tiniest details the armchair Karen’s out there could pick apart to make themselves feel superior. I like how the Karen you beat to the punch of ridiculous knit picking praised you saying “that’s right and……” trying to scrape up his own stupid detail to add. Boy sure would hate to overspeed that old video teaching prop! Who knows, atmospheric ions in his vicinity could form an oscillating slip
Attracted to negatively charged photons and disrupt the neighborhood direct TV signal causing disasters of e pic RPM proportions
Oh and actually reading the “substance” of your Karen’s oh I mean comments easily proved without a doubt Yall have no clue about this topic
11:27 if you don't have a load on the motor, it will just use the loss power from the friction, which is very less, if you would burden the motor, the power consumption would automatically increase, because the higher the motor is burdened, the lower is the speed, and the lower the speed is, the smaller is the impedance of the rotor coils because of the lower frequency of the alternating current (the coils on the rotor have alternating current because of the brushes).
This channel is very underrated!
I love the visual aliasing you can see with the tape rotating. Some solid nyquist action in there
I really love your videos, they are all so informative. Thank you!
Thanks for making this great video. I liked the diagram showing about how it’s all wired. Great editing too. Thank you 👍
Yeah.. Another quality video.. Loved it💖
Yes
You Rock, Andrei 👍✊
Great video! For more power in DC mode you could connect the static coils in parallel instead of series.
Also it would be cool to see what happens when different voltages are applied to static coils vs rotating, and finally, can it be used as a generator?!
In that case you end up with what's called a shunt wound DC motor, which has a really cool property that it spins at nearly constant speed regardless of the load! These are commonly used in applications where you need very high speed regulation. (like a lathe, or machinery) The amount of voltage applied controls the speed and the current drawn is proportional to the load on the motor.
When used as a series motor, the speed is inversely proportional to the load (torque). Assuming no friction or windage losses (air drag) the no-load speed would theoretically be infinite. Also the stall torque is going to be very high. This has to do with the EMF of the rotor subtracting voltage away from the stator windings. At stall, there is no back EMF and the current in the stator and rotor are limited by DC resistance of the coils and brushes, leading to maximum torque. As the motor speeds up, the back EMF on the rotor means there is less voltage on the stator coil, which causes field weakening, which (counterintuitively) means the motor speeds up more!
The series wound DC motor clearly has very poor speed regulation inherently. But the property of speed and torque curve makes it useful for EV's. This is commonly the motor type that is used in golf carts for instance, as the higher torque at lower speeds allows for climbing hills and higher speeds and lower torque for cruising on flat road at higher speeds, without the need for a transmission or CVT.
@@power-max really cool! Thanks for the detailed explanation
@@vadimm6432 Ski lifts is another place to find these motors. Look at this beast! ruclips.net/video/cnG42_YrcV0/видео.html
@@power-max nice explanation of basic motor theory. I learned a lot of this while building a DC/arduino control board for a washing-machine, for off-grid power and custom wash cycles. I found that much easier than using the tacho for wash speed control, as is normal for washing-machines, lifting the stator-rotor connection to a fixed voltage accross the stator (10V) fixed a minimum current (5A) through it and gave that stable voltage controlled speed dynamic that you mentioned of shunt wiring, without losing the soft low-speed startup of series winding. Gradually reducing that fixed stator voltage as the rotor voltage increased opened it back up again for the spin to get to full speed at about 200V. (motor wound for european voltages)
to (maybe?) clarify the explanation:
the voltage across a series motor is split into three: the resistive drop in the stator, the resistive drop in the rotor, and the back EMF (generated voltage) in the rotor due to its spinning in the stator field. These three always add up to the applied voltage. The current through the rotor and stator define the strengths of their respective magnetic fields, and therefore the strength of the force between them (torque), which is the product (multiply) of them both. The back EMF in the rotor is similarly the product of the rate of rotation and the stator field strength. When the motor is first started, 0rpm, the applied voltage is entirely met by the winding resistance, so the current is at it's maximum and so is the torque, but as soon as the motor starts to spin, back EMF (generated voltage) in the rotor starts to take voltage away from the coil resistance reducing current and therefore the torque (by current squared). But since this means the stator current is reducing, that also reduces the back EMF, meaning that the current and torque isn't reduced by as much, and it keeps getting faster. eventually the motor reaches a speed where the reducing torque meets the increasing mechanical load and the system stabilizes, but if the mechanical resistance is low, since the speed is proportional to the voltage divided by the current (another way to state that the generated voltage is proportional to speed times current), with very little current (due to low torque requirement) you get very much speed.
Great video. Let’s put this motor on a bike or cart and test the limits. !
Can we make a generator from it? By powering the field coil somehow
Unfortunately, you fail to explain why the motor can run on both AC and DC and how to reverse the rotation. Because the polarity of both the field and armature are both changed, the rotation remains the same. That's why it can run on AC. To reverse the rotation, you need to change the polarity of just the field coils, or just the armature.
He did not explain because he probably does not know. In this video he explained nothing. He just applied power after a quick google search to see what were the 2 wires out of the seven. What a useless video!!
Exactly
great video!! well explained! is it possible to create a huge dc pwm dimmer to control speed or it just better control in ac with angle phase control ?
Depends on the project. It works better with AC and is more efficient! Also, the TRIAC control circuit could be simpler than a DC PWM controller.
@@ELECTRONOOBS thanks !! Did u received the vfd pcb already ahah, im waiting to see that project
awesome video!
Great video!
I enjoyed this one a lot! Great video man!
Can you share your motor diagram?
It would be handy for documenting the wiring on salvaged motors.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
so is this motor actually AC or DC motor, because if works on DC than it would change the rotation direction with negative supply, then how does it work with AC voltage?? i am curious.
great video! never knew how those universals worked👍
Thank you!
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Do a video with the other motors of the washers, 3 PH. How to control the electricity and the velocity, inductions motors.
Hi, I wonder what’s the difference between AC and DC input to the universal motor? Will the torque of the motor be larger when inputting DC power?😊
You are marvelous
Make a measurement with existing tachometer. Interesting. Can make closed loop feedback.
Well explained 😌🙂
Hey, yo, will there be any pcb design series, it would be srsly helpful...
Excellent 👌👌👌👌👍
Ah! Good info here. Can braking resistors be used on this motor?
I should have one for my collection
Really good video 👍
Please make another video with closed loop control of the speed
I will!!!
Thanks
great video make a controller for use without torque loss
VFD
hello man, I would like to ask where I could find a larger magnetic motor, thank you
Very informative video thank you buddy
Can I use it as a pottery wheel motor in dc mode? what is the torque?
for the dc motor, have a look to the IC TDA1085
Do these motors produce high torque on dc supply
Very nice video. I'm looking for high volt dc moter driving circuit looking forward plz make one.. Like 220v to 80-120vDC
What i want to know is about the rotation. In dc if i change polarity it changes the rotation? And in ac it does the same or its fixed rotation?
Hello my friend i want to ask you where i s more efficient the universal motor ac or dc?
AC should be more efficient.
That motor is on Brandt, Mastercook, Bosch and Siemens
How to separate or remove the white plastic sensor that is glued or attached to the rotor shaft without breaking it? Could someone answer this question for me?
Cirquit of Dimmer is similar BT136?
PCBway is starting to look more and more like one of Alibaba's sub-company.
Plz make video on how to control Speed of front load washing machine motor
Direction of motor is not explained like in washing machine both clock wise and anticlock wise is there any instrument for that purpose
Can you share the speed controller circuit please?
Nice 👍
Strangely I was looking just for this yesterday 🤔😁😂🤫
Thx 4 ur vids...nice Sunday
Glad to hear that! Thanks for your comment!
@@ELECTRONOOBS perfect video..keep going 😉👍
nice
My washing machine motor i ordered from ebay and it induce a voltage and power a led
Muy bueno pero el vídeo estará en español?🙏🏾
Si! Pronto!
Gracias genio!!!!!
The display showed 99.01 watt peak usage
Nóob this video is some how different from previous one,less animation and missing your old voice.
I welcome the author of the channel and his audience, I am a member of the armed forces of Ukraine, I would like to apply for material assistance to my unit, if possible, write in the comments. Thank you