The Ultimate Portable Drone Battery Charger | Build Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2024
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Here it is, my Ultimate Portable Drone Battery Charger build tutorial. I've been asked about this so often I decided to do a full and detailed build tutorial of this charge case. I designed it to charge any batteries I'd ever need and it's all mounted inside a relatively small case that I can just grab and go. Everything I need is in there to charge at home on the bench or out in the field.
It can charge:
► 1-6S Lipo, LiHV, LiFe, Lion, NiMh and Pb
► DJI Phantom 4 batteries
► DJI Mavic 2 Pro batteries
► DJI Inspire batteries
Parts and components:
► 3D printed parts and Front Panel downloads: bit.ly/39InS6g
► ToolkitRC M6D charger: bit.ly/3hGzNDL
► DPS-1200 12V 100A DC power supply: amzn.to/3jfnzD6
► Nanuk 915 waterproof case: amzn.to/3oGzqeI
► Carbon effect film: amzn.to/2YINc5Y
► Cable Organiser: amzn.to/3rlkZyh
► XT60 connectors: amzn.to/3jfZqfP
► IEC panel mount plug: amzn.to/3jhxbgX
► Rocker switch: amzn.to/3rkKCzh
► Panel mount USB lead: amzn.to/36GRLly
► 60mm 12v DC fan: amzn.to/3q0u9jL
► 60mm fan grill: amzn.to/36J1CaJ
► M3 threaded inserts: amzn.to/3cDRQuf
► M3 dome head bolts: amzn.to/3jitnfh
► AWG 10 gauge silicone cable: amzn.to/39MEXfB
► DJI Mavic 2 Pro battery charge cable: bit.ly/3q1bMuE
► DJI Phantom 4 Pro battery charge cable: bit.ly/3cOeOi6
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Chapters:
00:00 - Introduction to the Ultimate Portable Drone Battery Charger
01:27 - A look inside the case
02:20 - Ultimate Portable Drone Battery Charger specification
02:31 - Charge LiPo 1-4S
03:04 - Charge LiPo with XT30 connectors
03:26 - Charge cable management
04:21 - Charging DJI Inspire, Phantom, Mavic 2 and Mavic Mini batteries
04:40 - Charge 4 DJI Mavic 2 Pro batteries at the same time
05:07 - Charge 4 DJI Mavic Mini batteries
05:48 - Charge DJI Phantom, Inspire and Mavic 2 controller
06:11 - Charge 1S LiPos in series
06:52 - Charge DJI CrystalSky and DJI FPV controller batteries
07:36 - Fans and hot air management
08:01 - Switch between internal and external power
09:12 - Component overview
09:24 - HP DPS-800 12V 80A DC power supplies
10:10 - 3D printed mounts for XT60, XT30 and balance lead
10:21 - Laser cut charger tray
10:40 - Nanuk 915 case
11:17 - Front panel layout
11:39 - 3mm Acrylic and carbon look film
12:16 - Designing the front panel
12:33 - Laser cut acrylic and carbon film
12:50 - Wet the carbon film and acrylic
13:14 - Laser cutting
13:28 - Preparing the DPS-800 DC power supplies
14:01 - DPS-800 links to turn it on
14:54 - Modify the DPS-800 to be floating ground
18:57 - Mounting the powers supplies and wiring them up
19:16 - Assembling the 3D printed connector mounts
19:37 - Balance lead extender made from Vero board and JST pin header
19:59 - Use a soldering iron to push M3 threaded inserts in the 3D parts
20:26 - Solder the balance lead to the Vero board
20:46 - Super glue the Vero board to the mount
21:18 - Mounting the power supplies in the case
21:40 - Testing the power supplies
22:30 - Getting everything wired up
22:42 - Making the charger trays
23:18 - Use 4 charge port 3D printed extenders
23:51 - Use ready wired USB extender cables
24:19 - Wiring the fans
24:46 - Power cable switch and wiring
27:12 - Wiring the front panel
27:22 - Herta drum break
28:27 - It’s snowing ❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄
29:10 - Fixing the font panel in the case
30:06 - Testing and finishing off
32:38 - Testing the external supply
34:16 - Thanks for watching 👋
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Wonderful I've been looking for some like this I like it so much I've just ordered it from you looking forward to get it
Looks great and very professional. Well done.
Thanks.
Excellent job, I do so like people who put in the attention to detail and produce proffesional kit, Great job, :-)
Thank you very much!
loved it , more then all , the prosses of design and thinking helps me the most!
Not everyone has the same requirements, but hopefully it's food for thought and inspiration. Thanks for watching.
Top hole sir!
I was toying with the idea of building something similar - might have to shamelessly nick a couple of your ideas. Many thanks and keep it up!
Please do!
Very well done project! I hope it serves you well. 👍
I hope so too!
Thanks for making this. I've used your drawings as inspiration to design my own case. Different chargers so it requires some workarounds and remodeling but I think it came out pretty good. I'll make a video about it sometime in the coming months.
Glad it inspired you. Have fun making it.
@@WhirlyBloke it’s gotten me into a making kick. Next project is a raspberry pi arcade in a Nanak 910.
any news about the video?
Excellent video
Glad you liked it
Excellent video, I own about 20 lipo chargers and agree the MD6 is one of my favorite chargers. I use two of them and bought a spare.
Right on
@@WhirlyBloke I'd settled on the m6d, then started reading about voltage calibration issues. Is it a real issue? I plan to exploit the two outputs to parallel charge 4 packs on each side, 4S 3700mAh.
Dude , just sweeeeeet
Thanks for watching and the feedback.
That is superb! Quality project at every stage. I wish I had a laser cutter for my panel. I have a 4mm piece of acrylic but I'm still deciding which way to cut it out neatly. Well done. 👍
Thanks. I've had a few enquiries about selling the complete laser cut front panel and 3d printed parts. Not sure yet, so watch this space.
I'd be interested if you do! Best regards. ☺️
double comment as this build was just awesome pal really awesome awesome build great work
Glad you liked it
Awesome ‼️👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the visit
And thats how you do a proper video! All available thumbs up! :-)
Thanks for the kind comments.
Please ko a video on modify the power supply to a floating ground. Very professional build.
There's loads of them on YT and they are all a bit long winded. This is pretty good though ruclips.net/video/d7lF1sIgIlA/видео.html
@@WhirlyBloke Along the same line, how do you hook up both AC inputs on the power supply to your exernal AC outlet?
You didn't do this halfway, great build! Curious what the approximate cost to make was
Excelent tutorial. Sir how did you attach your cable organizer to the plastic lid of the case. Thank you for any response.
A simple 3D printed bracket fixed to the lid with VHB tape and a velcro strap ruclips.net/video/sdHR9LuO6bE/видео.html
That’s awesome. Very nice job! I’m thinking about doing something similar. How did you fixed the PSUs to the bottom?
Bolts through the bottom of the case.
hello great tutorial
I have a question what is the reference of the JST pin header
I designed a 3D printed part that holds the XT60 connector and has slots for a pins from a JST header soldered to some prototyping board. The details are in the video and description.
Nice case you built there and great detailed video. If you were to make one today would you use the same chargers or go with different ones? I'm going to make one and there are soooooo many different chargers to choose from.
Yes I'd use the same chargers, mainly because they charge every type of battery I use including the DJI ones. I can even charge the new Mavic 3 ones. But there are loads of chargers to choose from these days. You need to look at what you need, cost and what you trust to do the job.
What laser did you use to cut the pieces with?
Where did you get your cable extensions for the DJI Mavic, Inspire etc. batteries? Also are those drone types already part of the M6D chargers or did you just set up custom battery types. Lastly I can't see those batteries are balanced, is that done internally with a small BMS?
I added links to the DJI Mavic and Phantom charge cables in the description. No balance lead is needed for them, just plug into the XT60 and select UAVBat->Mavic or UAVBat->Phantom on the M6D charger menu. These are standard on M6D. Remember that DJI smart batteries have their own internal balance charger, so you just need to supply power.
For my charger I want to build a case with power supplies and an external connection like yours.
Without a switch you put power on the outlet of the power supplies from the external source which can damage the power supplies, so the toggle switch prevents that. Did you put the 24V through the switch or is it the 230V going through the switch? I am asking because it is a 20A switch and with the 24V @ 1600W your putting more then 60A through the switch.
The switch toggles the DC input .
I'm at the final stages of building my case. I went with the Nanuk 930 and four of the ToolkitRC M9's (I charge a lot of packs at once). Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've watched this video probably 50 times (0.25 speed / frame by frame / freeze frame) and it looks like the 24v output power from the power supply is being ran through that switch (switch centered = off / switch to right = power supply input / switch to the left = lipo input). If so how is that switch handling that amount of amps being ran through it from the power supply?
You just need to source a suitable toggle switch rated for the max current. Switches are rated for switching and continuous and I suggest you opt for a continuous rating otherwise the switch will be massive. My lates build doesn't have a switch or a DC input, just mains power for the DC supply - I never used the LiPo inputs. If I'm in the field, I use a 300W camping power inverter or a petrol generator.
Great video I really enjoyed and picked up some very good ideas on build my kit now if you could send me a diagram on wiring up your switch that would help me considerably thank you buddy
Glad it helped.
Yes, how to do the switching..im wanting to add battery to power mine also as an option...currently just a server psu
Would you recommend using the xt60 plug and use a xt60 to as150 adapter to charge larger batteries ?
That'll work just fine.
Would it be possible to buy your acrylic kit with all the wiring pre done so I could literary just plug everything in ? .
Unfortunately not. But all the parts are available. Check the description for links including the laser and 3d parts from my shop.
This is BEAUTIFUL. I wish that I had the ability to laser cut the face plate :(
Thanks. Laser cut anything just looks so good.
I was wondering how you hooked up both power supplies on the AC side .. I see the plug in the case ..but was wondering how it does to the two power supplies .. I can under one …but both? Is it in parallel? [I understand about the floating ground]. I have a MD6DAC so I am thinking of wiring in a power strip to make this simpler . The reason you have 24V is because of the 2 MD6’s .. .if there is only one, can you get buy with 12F?
Thanx. I was going to buy your kit but I don’t need all of that One M6DAC is fine for my needs and I don’t need all the XT30/60 and balance stuff. Actuallt my Mav2 and M2Air connectors go to banana plugs (and I have a Xt60 to banana and wondering if I can user some auto panel plug panels to make simpler …won’t be as pretty …just to save on cable to store. Do you have any ideas? [Plus I need to use a USB C instead of A connector too]
It depends what you plan to charge really. If you need the full potential of the M6D or similar ToolkitRC chargers you will need 24V using 2 supplies in series. I've done that in another charge case, but ended up never needing to charge batteries that took advantage of it. This case build uses a single power supply which does everything I need. If you're using a single M6DAC I suspect you'll probably just need a single 12V DC supply which makes things easier. This project was really meant to inspire people to build their own and the deck kits were there to make them look nice if you need it.
hi great build fella, can i ask why you have the 2 xt60 inputs? 1 batt to charge in field is one wired as an extra output? for another charger maybe ? bit puzzled. Great usage of the 'switch'
It could be just one XT60 peering both chargers.
@@WhirlyBloke for symmetrys sake, thanks for reply :)
Awesome setup, I’m setting up a similar one charger M6D. Tried to follow your walkthrough on wire but my PSU is still powering up when I plug in a external Lipo as the power source. I must have my DPDT switch wired incorrectly. Any assistance would be great. Thanks for the inspiration.
I'm glad to hear that my setup has inspired you! Assuming that you have a standard DPDT (Double-Pole, Double-Throw) switch, there are a couple of things to check. First, make sure that you have wired the switch correctly. The switch should have six terminals (two sets of three). On one set of terminals, you should have the PSU positive and negative wires connected to the center and one of the outer terminals, respectively. On the other set of terminals, you should have the LiPo positive and negative wires connected to the center and the other outer terminal, respectively. The remaining two outer terminals on the switch should be left unconnected.
If you have wired the switch correctly and the problem persists, there are a couple of other things to check. First, make sure that the switch is functioning properly. You can use a multimeter to check continuity between the various terminals when the switch is in different positions. If you're not sure how to do this, there are many online tutorials that can guide you.
Another possibility is that there is a short circuit somewhere in your wiring that is bypassing the switch. Check all of your connections carefully, and make sure that there are no loose wires or frayed insulation that could be causing a short.
If none of these steps solve the problem, you may need to seek additional assistance from a more experienced electronics hobbyist or a professional. Good luck, and let me know if you have any further questions!
@@WhirlyBloke thank you for the information. I will definitely recheck my wiring again.
Do you know what gauge wire is good for a 60mm cooling fan?
Find the fan current rating by either measuring it or looking at the specs and use this table meters.co.uk/american-wire-gauge-awg-cable-conductor-sizes/ to choose the correct AWG wire.
Your wiring is interesting, yet hardly to reproduce without a plan. At least for "non-electrics" like me. Any chance we can get one from you?
Thanks for watching. The wiring is pretty straightforward and is mostly just extending the connectors on the charger to the connectors on the front panel. The balance port is a 3D printed mount with a custom 7 pin connector. In this video, I made this from scratch, but I now have a PCB version for customer kits. The wiring of the internal/external power source switch is un-necessarily complicated in this first version of the charge case. Later versions just use a single external XT60 connector (2 was overkill) and a simple change over switch. This isn't really a project if you have don't have any electronics experience - it would have taken 10 times as long to produce the video and I'm always stretched for time. I really appreciate your support and I'll definitely keep your comments in mind for future projects.
@@WhirlyBloke Hey, thank your for your answer. But i am struggling (after a stretched build across two month) only at one point which is not shown in your video. Its missing between the cut 30:04 to 30:30 - You do not show where the 2 RED wires go that give constant power. I am really struggling to where two of those will go. Do i connect both of them to 24 volt panel on the top DC Supplier?
@@WhirlyBloke Would love to get this tiny bit of Info from you. To my understanding, both Ends of the red cable coming from the switch need to go to the 24 pad, correct?
is there a charger, that can charge the mavic 3 batteries with xt-60?
Sorry, not that I know of.
How much for you to build me one and ship it to the USA. God bless and keep doing such a good job
The deck kit and 3D printed parts are available here www.xcopters.co.uk/shop/ultimate-portable-drone-battery-charge-case-deck-kit However, if you want a full custom build, delivered, email me on sales@xcopters.co.uk
If i were to cut it by hand what is the best tools to use?
Slowly and with maybe a jigsaw or band saw. But acrylic is brittle and the edges will splinter no matter how slowly you go. they can be cleaned up, but laser cutting is the best way. The edges are crsip, clean and polished.
If power supply is 100amp how can it work with the chargers when it says only a MAX of 30a?
It's basic electronic engineering really. Using a charger that specifies a maximum draw of 30 amps with a 100-amp power supply is perfectly fine. The system is designed to be flexible, with devices drawing only the current they need. The important factors are ensuring that the voltage matches and that the power supply can handle the maximum current draw of the charger or any other devices connected to it. This setup allows for safe operation and avoids overloading the charger or power supply. The only issue might be if the power supply was spec'd to deliver under 30A, in which case the charger couldn't charge at its full rate.
I don't understand, how can 4s (~16V) battery be charging ~25V 6S battery. I', fairly new at this, could someone, please, explain to me, how that works? Thank you
The charger has a step-up switch mode supply circuit on the input. So the charger generates enough voltage for the charge circuit to charge a 6s battery from a 4s supply.
Do you offer the file for laser cutters and 3d printer files?
Unfortunately not. Thanks for watching.
Wow. This is the absolute shit. Great project, awesome job. :)
Thanks.
So much effort in this video and so few views. Sad :(
Tell me about it. Thanks for watching.
I'm one minute into this video, and already my bank account is getting worried. Will reply more when I've watched it all as I recently looked into an ammo can style portable power bank build ...
I didn't compromise of components, so just take from it what you need if you make your own.
@@Drone-Pilot Absolutely!
@@WhirlyBloke I watched it through and I love it. I have a few ideas of mine own, none of which I think I can afford :-D I think I'd do it with a panel mounted voltage and current display, so I could know how much power I was pulling. I'd also - and here's where the price tag shoots up - build a Li-Ion battery pack with a BMS into the the lid. Probably a 6S2P or 6S4P around 3Ah - that would give you more energy than the big lipo you showed in the video, but it's about £140 worth of batteries! Then instead of the flip switch for DC or AC power, I'm thinking of a rotary switch or some kind of relay to control whether we're using external or internal power and whether to charge the Li-Ions. What do you think?
@@davidrgilson Sounds great. Go for it.
Nice but you talk too much
Turn the volume down 😜
Hello, i have 2 of the 1400W (Product Number 733428-101) power supplies. I managed to get the ground of the one case. But i am missing the pinout diagram or manual to get the correct pins for the autostartup. Is there a source I don´t have access to?
Thanks Michael
Not that I know of.