Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
1996 - 2000 GM OBS Truck Vortec V8 Intake Manifold FULL Rebuild Gasket Oil Leak Repair (Chevy & GMC)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- This is the FIRST, of a TWO part DIY fully detailed tutorial on the removal and rebuild of the upper and lower intake manifold assembly from the GM Vortec V8 truck engines (both 5.0L and 5.7L). The motivation for this repair was initially to address a long ignored lower intake manifold gasket engine oil leak, but during the disassembly process we identified an upper intake manifold gasket oil leak as well as significant accumulation of carbon deposits internally, leading to the necessity for a full intake manifold (upper and lower) rebuild.
Part one covers all the preparation for removal of the intake manifold assembly from the Vortec engine. Part two covers the disassembly, cleaning, decarbonization, repairs, part numbers, reassembly, and reinstallation back onto the engine. In part two we also go over the camshaft retard timing adjustment procedure necessary after disturbing the distributor in performing this repair.
The vehicle illustrated is a 1998 Chevrolet Cheyenne K2500 with the 5.7L vortec engine, but the procedure, parts, and techniques shown are applicable to any 1996 thru 2000 old body style (OBS) GM truck GMT400 type such as the Chevrolet Silverado, GMC Sierra, Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Cheyenne, Chevrolet Tahoe, GMC Suburban, Cadillac Escalade, or GMC Yukon. This procedure is also applicable to many G vans like the Chevrolet Express and GMC Savana as well. Procedure applies to both 5.0L and 5.7L Vortec V8 engines.
Also applicable to some Holden branded GM trucks in Australia of this same time period with the same engine.
Link to part II: • 1996 - 2000 GM OBS Tru...
The eBay and Amazon search links below are paid links, for which I may be compensated and earn a commission, if you choose to buy the parts and tools shown in this video thru them:
GM factory service manual for this engine: ebay.us/ExJjhf
The yellow paint marking pen I used: ebay.us/F76p1r or on amzn.to/374RWdX
And if I've saved you some $$ here, consider some coins for the coffee tip-jar! ko-fi.com/drshock
1996 1997 1998 1999 2000
Chapters:
0:00 - Problem overview
1:00 - Removing the fan shroud, belt, pulley
4:25 - Removing the ducting, throttle cables, bracket, evap
9:15 - Disconnecting the AC compressor, evap, battery
14:31 - Disconnecting wiring connectors, pcv hose
22:17 - Loosening AC compressor/PS bracket, egr tube
30:36 - Drain engine coolant, disconnecting hoses
49:07 - Removing harness brackets, ignition coil
54:03 - Disconnecting PB vacuum hose
56:18 - Removing the distributor
1:03:53 - Disconnecting the fuel lines
1:05:58 - Loosening the valve covers
1:07:00 - Removing lower intake manifold bolts
1:09:06 - Checking for removal of intake manifold assembly
#drshock #obstruck #obstrucks
Disclaimer: DrShock, the alias for the human content creator for this RUclips channel, is not responsible for any damages, injuries, losses, or liabilities associated with any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance performed on yours, or any other, vehicle whatsoever. No warranty, express or implied, is made as to the accuracy or completeness of any information provided within this channel. Viewing and using the “as-is" information of this channel is totally at your own risk. Always wear personal protection equipment and follow appropriate vehicle manufacturer service manual guidelines with original manufacturer parts only when performing any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance upon any vehicle.
Your vids are long but so well detailed and recorded that it leaves very few questions without the need to rewind so much. Thanks
I had trouble with the EGR pipe fitting on the intake manifold. The fitting was easy enough to move but the pipe was seized in the fitting. I had to saw the pipe (left 1" either side of the cut). I will try to re-join the pipe with a 5/8" brass compression union. I hope the brass ring seals sufficiently over the ribbed section.
A new pipe on Amazon was $176.00😅 probably out of stock!
I wound up removing the one bolt that holds the fuel rail bracket to the back of the manifold, and then the two wee nuts and the keeper from the forward end of of the rail. I then pried the fuel rail tubes out of the manifold seals. I bent the rail up to clear things. I could not reach way back there with the flare wrench to undo the lines! My back; I over extended my knee... AAAAAARGH! 😂
my intake manifold started spewing oil two days before I was supposed to leave for virginia, this video was a life saver man you did a great job with explaining everything in great detail and great camera work, especially the tips on what to look out for and how to manage things
Hands down best how to video I've seen. About to do the same job unless I can drop it off with You
Incredibly well done video. I’m a HD tech so this should be easy but glad to have your knowledge to avoid mistakes or accidental damage!
I did the intake gasket job last year on my 96 Yukon. I wish I had this video at the time!
Thank you sir very much.
Awesome job like all the detail video and explanation as you go. Looking forward to see what intake gasket kit you will use. Thank you for this video been wanting to fix my oil leak on my 96 GMC Yukon also. 🙏👍😎
Excellent detailed video ,i recently acquired an 1998 gmc 5.7 with 103k. Was told fuel pump was out so checked and replaced along with fuel filter that was clogged. Still crank no start,unless i pour gas into TB. i can hear clicking inside the top of the cpfi module some times. My question is have you ever seen or heard or crank no start because of clogged gm vortec spiders. Thanks
Injectors can be one, of many many, causes for a crank no start on these OBS trucks. Start with pulling the diagnostic trouble codes, if applicable. If you have correct fuel pressure at the rail, about the only other check you can do without disassembly of the upper intake manifold is checking the wiring harness. Signal and grounds going in. A tool known as a _noid light_ can be used to verify that there is not a VCM or harness issue. There is also a camshaft position sensor inside the distributor that should get a harness integrity validation. Verifying the throttle position sensor harness, and crankshaft position sensor harness would also be a good check. All of this is involved in the injector operation during initial cranking.
Can you give me tips on how to get the Upper intake manifold to seal properly over the spider injector unit? I watched your video but that’s the part when your camera went out 🤦🏽♂️😩 Please help me! 🙏🏾
Yeah, so this list
- Be sure the mounting bracket retaining bolt is at the right torque so that you still have some play in the bracket
- Mount the gasket around the spider assembly and install onto the bracket. Be sure you don't install it backwards. Light engine oil around both the gasket and the upper intake opening it will be sliding into
- Bring the upper intake onto the gasket, aligning the opening and press into position. No hammering, and do not use the fasteners to pull it down or it will crack. It will be a tight fit but it will slide into place once you have it aligned properly. If its binding, go slow and eyeball what it's hung up on. You can use the fasteners to close the gap once it's at most 1/8" or so.
I’m looking at a 98’ 5.7 vortec and the owner said it was leaking coolant from the front but all the hoses where good, could the gasket be broken and leaking out the front instead of in to the cylinder, it started right up idled fine and wasn’t smoking
I'd suspect the heater quick connect fitting, thermostat housing, or water pump area before the lower intake manifold. While the gasket can fail on the cooling passages too, it's uncommon to leak _externally_ when it does. More likely to leak _internally_ just due to the location of the coolant passages in the casting.
Did this my '97 cbevy 5.7,watched your video,now idles up and down,what could be wrong?
Non-GM fuel pressure aftermarket regulator, misaligned intake manifold gaskets or partial manifold port blockage, carbon debris in injector lines. Could be several things really hard to say.
I would debug the problem by retracing all steps for any mistakes or questionable non-OEM parts used. Running thru a dose of Techron after a job like this is a good practice as well.
@@DrShock checked everything again, started engine,found vac leak in upper maniford,fixed runs great👍
Were you a tech for GM back in the day? I noticed that you had made the comment that you had performed this job many times.
No, that comment just comes from providing fleet maintenance on the side, for a group of late 90s Chevrolet K trucks (this intake rebuild is something one gets to do repetitively on OBS Vortec V8s to address leaks at around every 6 years or so). Though I do *always* go with OEM parts, genuine GM in this vids case.
@@DrShock I gotcha. You display a lot of confidence during your process of explaining the procedure and I appreciate that. Our 98 Silverado is approaching 200k miles and thankfully this is not became an issue yet.