I love this little combo of a 5.7 Vortec one-piece rear main seal 4 bolt Main roller cam and roller lifters with an aluminum intake... I went old school with v belts and an old school water pump and I drilled the 3/8 inch coolant bypass hole with some grease and a rag stuffed into the water jacket hole to collect the shavings... I also found that the "Right Stuff" silicone seal is the best in my opinion... I had a Vortec like that in my three-quarter ton 97 Chevrolet and it has 340000 km on it and it is still going.. still barely Burns any oil ... It had a little piston slap when I got it at 170000 km but that goes away in 2 minutes and that hasn't changed.. Great tutorial!
So ur vortec is like mine it didn’t come with the 3rd bypass hole on the passenger side of the engine where the water pump mounts espiecsllt if ur using a old school water pump u could of used ur heater core as a bypass from the heater core back to the passenger side on the intake manifold cool passenger side that way also instead of having to drill that hole if ur not running a heater core u could of drilled into ur thermostat and had constant flow threw out the whole engine to keep it cool depending on ur application brother
Most heater cores do not have a constant flow and have a valve installed and are manually or climate control activated to stop the water flow .. when that valve is closed there is no circulation... a small hole drilled into the thermostat is good for bleeding out air from the top of the motor but is not enough to allow proper circulation... the bypass hole is 3/8 of an inch to feed the water pump if there is no hose from the intake to the top of the water pump... you're not going to get any volume of water supply passing through a tiny hole in the thermostat...
In addition my Vortec came with the bypass hole in the block that was drilled halfway through so I just had to continue drilling it the rest of the way... problem solved
I always put my manifold on dry and check the ends. Snug the bolts up a little and use a feeler gauge to check my clearage. No use in using to much sealer and have it break off later on and plug the oil screen. Sometimes you will find the manifold hits the block. So you have to grind clearance on the manifold. That will tell you how much of sealer you need to use.
I really enjoy your vids, makes me wants to try building an engine again. The only one I did was in maybe 1976, I built a 351C-2V, had a blast doing it, even though I didn't have the right tools. All my know how came from Hot Rod and PHR and Car Craft mags, and a shop manual. It's kind of amazing how much is the same, and yet how much has changed.
5$ a pop for those mags and you kind of got a weed out the advertisements they use in their parts choice. David vizard books would to cut through the bull nowadays for free you can see 100 different channels how people do it right and wrong and decipher the information for your self for free in videos I believe this is the best ERA ever for a gear head that wants to learn damn LS motors are a cheat code! Those good factory heads are the LEFT RIGHT LEFT RIGHT UP DOWN UP DOWN B A B A SELECT START! all you need is a cam, converter and limited slip
This video is great and so is your channel. I am putting vortec heads on an older sbc 350. The aluminum intake that I have has two coolant passages on the back by the distributor. They both have plugs in them and I am confused on how the coolant hoses should be plumbed. If they have plugs it seems like the coolant will not flow and it will over heat. This is my first time doing this and I just looking for some guidance. Thanks and any help will be greatly appreciated.
Great videos keep them coming... i got a vortex 5.7 i am putting in a 53 chevy truck i am going to put AFR 195cc SBC enforcer cylinder heads and Edelbrock Pro Flow EFI intake and trick flow track max camshaflt Should i use this gasket you talking about also???
I also noticed the flat tappet cam! You and other knowledgeable sources have demonstrated that cam lobe taper and lifter crown machining can be off or non existent. By checking those(shouldn't have to) are you having a better flat tappet cam success rate?
I'd say it's yes so far but keep in mind I haven't done many in the last 5 years the flat tappet cam issue is complicated, I have gone to rollers only just because I don't want the hassle, but sometimes a customer just throws so much money at you we do what they want but yes the cam and lifters in this engine were measured very carefully before install we did find them to be acceptable, (By the way they were from Howard's Cams) I have used a dozen or so Howards both roller and flat tappets I have never found and issue with quality or had one fail just in case anyone is interested, I've had a bunch of comp cams stuff grenade, and yes I name them because they have never given me any kind of warranty at all they just blame me so I'm done with them, But even at That I would not build this with a warranty I made the customer sign an agreement that stated no warranty whatsoever on this engine in the event of a cam or lifter failure fortunately for him it's still going strong with around 10k miles. www.howardscams.com/
When using new aftermarket components are you lubricating the threads and washer faces at that torque value? I've always put a very slight amount of oil on the bolt head/washer and stud threads. Small block Fords seem to take several passes till all the bolts are evenly torqued.
Hello, I have a 96 Chevy Voltec engine with a carburetor intake manifold made of iron. The gaskets you recommend were installed. I sent the heads to be rectified. I installed them with marine gaskets and I still get water in the oil. Could you give me a hint where else to look? thank you
3:35 Is there any chance excess silicone will cause problems rolling around in the valley under the intake manifold??? I'd think it might cause blockage of the oil returns.
That 427 big block s10 build you started a few years ago , what was the defining thing that made you not finish it ? ( I'm literally thinking of doing the same and wanted some tech input)
Thats a good question aside from the fact that I was stretched way too thin and time was a big factor The biggest reason was after research and consulting with good friends of mine in the auto and race industry, it became clear that the truck would need a complete new suspension including Tubs and 4 Link as well as a complete Cage in order to do it correctly, I honestly just didn't want to spend the kind of money it was going to take, even with friends help and my skills as well it added up north of 50K I just couldn't go there not for an 80's S10 it can be done cheaper but with that kind of power it's a waste it will never be put to the wheels. and the truck would eventually twist the frame so to do it cheap it would just be for show and I'm not into that
What flexplate do u use for ur vortec motor to hook it up to a old school turbo 350 from the 80s I heard the vortec flexplate crankshaft bolts are different I haven’t gotten that far yet I’m almost there tho how can I go about this now
I have a question .. where are you ordering your studs from and what are you sealing the studs with going into the heads .. are you using thread tape .. silicone or thread gunk .. thanks
I used 2 1/2 " carb studs and sealed them with the same rtv as the manifold. 2" would work but I just wanted something to tie down my 10.5 mm spark plug cables and wiring. Spectrum studs have starred ends torqued at 15ft lbs just like the nuts.
I can understand how you can torque the 4 outter studs into the heads but how do you torque the 4 inner studs to the heads when the holes go clean through .... Thanks
Yes the best way is the use the same Carburetor intake in my video its just an edelbrock made to adapt a 4 barrel to vortec heads there is a real good quality TBI adaptor that bolts on top of this intake I have used this one on several TBI engines that we swapped to vortec heads the cool part is it works with all the aftermarket intakes for the vortec heads www.amazon.com/Khaos-Motorsports-Carberetor-Edelbrock-Manifold/dp/B084YSPZTS www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2116
@@8luggarage you can use an early style cover on a Vortec block you just need to get the dowl pins and insert them into the block the Vortec cover had the dowels incorporated into the plastic cover if you need the crank sensor you halfto stick with the plastic cover and you can not run a double roller
@@Myvintageiron7512 thanks for the reply. I have a double roller timing chain set on my 350 vortec, and I had to take a hammer to the inside of the timing cover to tap it out further so it didn't make contact with the timing set. It's a carburated setup.
I am surprised that you didn't drill out and tap the center bolts like you did on prior builds. Yes, it's more time consuming and will void a manifold warranty. But you'll never have to go back into it.
I started drilling the heads and Intakes a long time ago before I discovered the Gaskets shown in the video because every gasket I tried even the so called performance ones blew out after a few thousand. miles, I have never had a set of these Fel-Pro gaskets blow in 5 years probably 25 or 30 engines worth they are all still going so really no need
@Myvintageiron7512 Not so much as a need to do it, but more like added insurance and fixing a factory oversight. The manufacturer went cheap with their design. That said, whenever I replaced a 4.0 Ford engine, I knew that the factory rear main seal was problematic at best. So much so that Ford updated the seal. They incorporated a speedy sleeve into the seal, and listed a special tool to install it. What I changed the engine, the rebuilders used the old seal. Out with the seal, and in with the upgraded one. I don't like going back in to anything. Once is enough for me. )
Always , always use a "problem solver" type of intake gasket like the one shown, did I say always? The factory style gasket is less than garbage, don't insult your normal trash by adding this gasket to the mix. Also use the ARP bolts for Vortec intakes, never use the factory bolts, trust me, it's worth it, when you can install them, and forget them! Bury the old bolts in the back yard really deep, or straight to the landfill.
hey ol pal u remind me of me a perfectionist me and you would get along just fine.we also know all the numbers to gm ford etc been doin it since i was 12 to 13 now im 50
Uhh, sooo easy... Just fit gasket and put on... Would like the same simplicity with adjusting my 7101 which narrower than proper 7116... More welding and more thicker gasket...
Just to let you know some serious information about these Fel-Pro MS 98000 T intake gaskets. They are made with a defective rubber coating over the metal base!!! The rubber compound is prone to detieriation around the water jacket ports as the chemicals in the various types of common coolant is corrosive to it & can cause the rubber to let coolant leak into the valley tray & down into the oil pan wiping out the bearings causing catastrophic engine failure!!!! They also let oil seep up under into the bottom of the intake ports, because of the gasket overhang, at the bottom of the head!!! The "Mahle MS16-167P" gaskets are the fix for these issues..... So I'm questioning your advice you are putting out in this video!!! Take it for what it's worth for the number of followers you have and who are in the process of a Vortec rebuild with a manifold for a carb or EFI installation setup...... I am, and have thrown the $53. Fel-Pro gaskets in the trash!!! Best Regards, Rick Allison a.r.a.MotorSports Clarkston, MI
Looks like all he wanted was the vortec heads for better flow. It's all good. Some flat tappet setups actually do well on a mild build. Very cost friendly. I dont see anything wrong with what he did..
@@Myvintageiron7512 would it be possible for you to reply to this and give me a good recommendation for a intake manifold for a mild to mid build vortec Chevy but I want to carb swap it when I do but I don’t want to have to drill out a new intake manifold
Авто/Мото
I love this little combo of a 5.7 Vortec one-piece rear main seal 4 bolt Main roller cam and roller lifters with an aluminum intake... I went old school with v belts and an old school water pump and I drilled the 3/8 inch coolant bypass hole with some grease and a rag stuffed into the water jacket hole to collect the shavings... I also found that the "Right Stuff" silicone seal is the best in my opinion... I had a Vortec like that in my three-quarter ton 97 Chevrolet and it has 340000 km on it and it is still going.. still barely Burns any oil ... It had a little piston slap when I got it at 170000 km but that goes away in 2 minutes and that hasn't changed.. Great tutorial!
So ur vortec is like mine it didn’t come with the 3rd bypass hole on the passenger side of the engine where the water pump mounts espiecsllt if ur using a old school water pump u could of used ur heater core as a bypass from the heater core back to the passenger side on the intake manifold cool passenger side that way also instead of having to drill that hole if ur not running a heater core u could of drilled into ur thermostat and had constant flow threw out the whole engine to keep it cool depending on ur application brother
Most heater cores do not have a constant flow and have a valve installed and are manually or climate control activated to stop the water flow .. when that valve is closed there is no circulation... a small hole drilled into the thermostat is good for bleeding out air from the top of the motor but is not enough to allow proper circulation... the bypass hole is 3/8 of an inch to feed the water pump if there is no hose from the intake to the top of the water pump... you're not going to get any volume of water supply passing through a tiny hole in the thermostat...
In addition my Vortec came with the bypass hole in the block that was drilled halfway through so I just had to continue drilling it the rest of the way... problem solved
I'm sorry.
Its even more fun with the engine in the truck. I used your metal gasket advice the last time and it is great.
I always put my manifold on dry and check the ends. Snug the bolts up a little and use a feeler gauge to check my clearage. No use in using to much sealer and have it break off later on and plug the oil screen. Sometimes you will find the manifold hits the block. So you have to grind clearance on the manifold. That will tell you how much of sealer you need to use.
Good thinking. I will be using this method myself.
I really enjoy your vids, makes me wants to try building an engine again. The only one I did was in maybe 1976, I built a 351C-2V, had a blast doing it, even though I didn't have the right tools. All my know how came from Hot Rod and PHR and Car Craft mags, and a shop manual. It's kind of amazing how much is the same, and yet how much has changed.
5$ a pop for those mags and you kind of got a weed out the advertisements they use in their parts choice. David vizard books would to cut through the bull nowadays for free you can see 100 different channels how people do it right and wrong and decipher the information for your self for free in videos I believe this is the best ERA ever for a gear head that wants to learn damn LS motors are a cheat code! Those good factory heads are the LEFT RIGHT LEFT RIGHT UP DOWN UP DOWN B A B A SELECT START! all you need is a cam, converter and limited slip
That engine looks sharp.
Always enjoy your videos, I watched a lot of them when I was doing my motor for my 78 Camaro.
right on
He's been making videos since '78!! Holy crap, that's a long time!! Like on public access TV or something?
Best channel on RUclips!
This video is great and so is your channel. I am putting vortec heads on an older sbc 350. The aluminum intake that I have has two coolant passages on the back by the distributor. They both have plugs in them and I am confused on how the coolant hoses should be plumbed. If they have plugs it seems like the coolant will not flow and it will over heat. This is my first time doing this and I just looking for some guidance. Thanks and any help will be greatly appreciated.
Interesting video very nice . God bless you ❤
That is something I always did when I had to torque something like an intake or cylinder heads.
Great videos keep them coming... i got a vortex 5.7 i am putting in a 53 chevy truck i am going to put AFR 195cc SBC enforcer cylinder heads and Edelbrock Pro Flow EFI intake and trick flow track max camshaflt
Should i use this gasket you talking about also???
Yeah i have always used the bead method on the end gaskets, it works perfect.
I just wait until it's all together, then just weld up the opening! Never leaks after that!
You’re the man mr. Iron
Yes, he hasn't lost his mind yet and become a woman!!.. thank Christ!
The intake looks great on there.
Is that one of the endurashine finishes?
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
They just call it polished.
Can you do this with the valve cover on?
2:41 someone was having fun
I also noticed the flat tappet cam! You and other knowledgeable sources have demonstrated that cam lobe taper and lifter crown machining can be off or non existent. By checking those(shouldn't have to) are you having a better flat tappet cam success rate?
I'd say it's yes so far but keep in mind I haven't done many in the last 5 years the flat tappet cam issue is complicated, I have gone to rollers only just because I don't want the hassle, but sometimes a customer just throws so much money at you we do what they want but yes the cam and lifters in this engine were measured very carefully before install we did find them to be acceptable, (By the way they were from Howard's Cams) I have used a dozen or so Howards both roller and flat tappets I have never found and issue with quality or had one fail just in case anyone is interested, I've had a bunch of comp cams stuff grenade, and yes I name them because they have never given me any kind of warranty at all they just blame me so I'm done with them,
But even at That I would not build this with a warranty I made the customer sign an agreement that stated no warranty whatsoever on this engine in the event of a cam or lifter failure fortunately for him it's still going strong with around 10k miles.
www.howardscams.com/
Does this also work for fuel injected intake manifolds?
When using new aftermarket components are you lubricating the threads and washer faces at that torque value? I've always put a very slight amount of oil on the bolt head/washer and stud threads. Small block Fords seem to take several passes till all the bolts are evenly torqued.
Yes I always lube any fastener that I torqued.
Hello, I have a 96 Chevy Voltec engine with a carburetor intake manifold made of iron. The gaskets you recommend were installed. I sent the heads to be rectified. I installed them with marine gaskets and I still get water in the oil. Could you give me a hint where else to look? thank you
Do you have the link to the manifold ?
Will MIK98000T gasket set work also ?
3:35 Is there any chance excess silicone will cause problems rolling around in the valley under the intake manifold???
I'd think it might cause blockage of the oil returns.
Cool video same gasket I use. What intake stud kit is that thanks
I actually bought the studs at a hardware store make sure they are grade 8 if you do the same ARP also has a kit pretty cheap
Hello I have a 2001 Chevrolet 350.. What part# and brand intake is that?
You have to use Ultra Black. That shit is awesome
That 427 big block s10 build you started a few years ago , what was the defining thing that made you not finish it ? ( I'm literally thinking of doing the same and wanted some tech input)
Thats a good question aside from the fact that I was stretched way too thin and time was a big factor The biggest reason was after research and consulting with good friends of mine in the auto and race industry,
it became clear that the truck would need a complete new suspension including Tubs and 4 Link as well as a complete Cage in order to do it correctly,
I honestly just didn't want to spend the kind of money it was going to take,
even with friends help and my skills as well it added up north of 50K I just couldn't go there not for an 80's S10 it can be done cheaper but with that kind of power it's a waste it will never be put to the wheels. and the truck would eventually twist the frame so to do it cheap it would just be for show and I'm not into that
@@Myvintageiron7512 ya that's true definitely valid points for sure
What flexplate do u use for ur vortec motor to hook it up to a old school turbo 350 from the 80s I heard the vortec flexplate crankshaft bolts are different I haven’t gotten that far yet I’m almost there tho how can I go about this now
the TBI years had the same bolt pattern as vortec just tell them its a 1990 5.7 Liter it will be the correct flex plate
What intake is that
I know this is not about this video but do you have any videos on a ford 4.6 2v pi non pi build?
No sorry
yep
What are the intake manifold studs you are using?
Right? I want to know that too
U can hear the dyno in the background
I have a question .. where are you ordering your studs from and what are you sealing the studs with going into the heads .. are you using thread tape .. silicone or thread gunk .. thanks
I used 2 1/2 " carb studs and sealed them with the same rtv as the manifold. 2" would work but I just wanted something to tie down my 10.5 mm spark plug cables and wiring. Spectrum studs have starred ends torqued at 15ft lbs just like the nuts.
I can understand how you can torque the 4 outter studs into the heads but how do you torque the 4 inner studs to the heads when the holes go clean through .... Thanks
@@haniballecter7605 F**ked him up on that question, didn't ya? ROFLMFAO!!
Can u do one on changing from carb to tbi?
Yes the best way is the use the same Carburetor intake in my video its just an edelbrock made to adapt a 4 barrel to vortec heads there is a real good quality TBI adaptor that bolts on top of this intake I have used this one on several TBI engines that we swapped to vortec heads the cool part is it works with all the aftermarket intakes for the vortec heads
www.amazon.com/Khaos-Motorsports-Carberetor-Edelbrock-Manifold/dp/B084YSPZTS
www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2116
What brand studs are you using
That's a personal question!
Do you know what timing covers work on the vortec with a double roller timing chain set?
@@8luggarage you can use an early style cover on a Vortec block you just need to get the dowl pins and insert them into the block the Vortec cover had the dowels incorporated into the plastic cover if you need the crank sensor you halfto stick with the plastic cover and you can not run a double roller
@@Myvintageiron7512 thanks for the reply. I have a double roller timing chain set on my 350 vortec, and I had to take a hammer to the inside of the timing cover to tap it out further so it didn't make contact with the timing set. It's a carburated setup.
you need to use ulltra grey silicone 1\4 wide and 1\4 tall
I am surprised that you didn't drill out and tap the center bolts like you did on prior builds. Yes, it's more time consuming and will void a manifold warranty. But you'll never have to go back into it.
I started drilling the heads and Intakes a long time ago before I discovered the Gaskets shown in the video because every gasket I tried even the so called performance ones blew out after a few thousand. miles, I have never had a set of these Fel-Pro gaskets blow in 5 years probably 25 or 30 engines worth they are all still going so really no need
@Myvintageiron7512 Not so much as a need to do it, but more like added insurance and fixing a factory oversight. The manufacturer went cheap with their design.
That said, whenever I replaced a 4.0 Ford engine, I knew that the factory rear main seal was problematic at best. So much so that Ford updated the seal. They incorporated a speedy sleeve into the seal, and listed a special tool to install it. What I changed the engine, the rebuilders used the old seal.
Out with the seal, and in with the upgraded one. I don't like going back in to anything. Once is enough for me. )
Fel-pro 1255 work great too
Is the 1255 the gasket he used. Thanks
No
My mig welder works better!
Always , always use a "problem solver" type of intake gasket like the one shown, did I say always? The factory style gasket is less than garbage, don't insult your normal trash by adding this gasket to the mix. Also use the ARP bolts for Vortec intakes, never use the factory bolts, trust me, it's worth it, when you can install them, and forget them! Bury the old bolts in the back yard really deep, or straight to the landfill.
hey ol pal u remind me of me a perfectionist me and you would get along just fine.we also know all the numbers to gm ford etc been doin it since i was 12 to 13 now im 50
Uhh, sooo easy... Just fit gasket and put on... Would like the same simplicity with adjusting my 7101 which narrower than proper 7116... More welding and more thicker gasket...
I hear a Dyno pull in the background...
Just to let you know some serious information about these Fel-Pro MS 98000 T intake gaskets. They are made with a defective rubber coating over the metal base!!! The rubber compound is prone to detieriation around the water jacket ports as the chemicals in the various types of common coolant is corrosive to it & can cause the rubber to let coolant leak into the valley tray & down into the oil pan wiping out the bearings causing catastrophic engine failure!!!!
They also let oil seep up under into the bottom of the intake ports, because of the gasket overhang, at the bottom of the head!!!
The "Mahle MS16-167P" gaskets are the fix for these issues.....
So I'm questioning your advice you are putting out in this video!!!
Take it for what it's worth for the number of followers you have and who are in the process of a Vortec rebuild with a manifold for a carb or EFI installation setup......
I am, and have thrown the $53. Fel-Pro gaskets in the trash!!!
Best Regards,
Rick Allison
a.r.a.MotorSports
Clarkston, MI
A flat tappet engine WHAT Lol!
Yeah I know Right
Thats what I was gonna say
Break in video.
Looks like all he wanted was the vortec heads for better flow. It's all good. Some flat tappet setups actually do well on a mild build. Very cost friendly. I dont see anything wrong with what he did..
@@Myvintageiron7512 would it be possible for you to reply to this and give me a good recommendation for a intake manifold for a mild to mid build vortec Chevy but I want to carb swap it when I do but I don’t want to have to drill out a new intake manifold
Personally I blame squirrels.....
go to bed old man