Raced several yrs. running Hobbystocks, ran Double humps then those were outlawed and ran a lot off 993s, 882, But the best heads we found were the 441 and the 441X. These heads were what everyone wanted back in the day. Now everyone who doesn't run Crate motors run the EQ heads.
Thanks so much for such an informative and well-organized video on 350 heads. The more a person knows; the more of an expert they are, the more humble they are (usually). When you said, "I don't know everything, but I know a lot", I knew right there that you know what the hell you're talking about. Other guys that don't know 1/10th of what you know will say, "I know everything about 350 Chevy heads!" I wish other RUclipsrs that do informational videos took the time to get organized and chock their videos with as much info as you do. Hopefully some of them will check out your videos, because they could learn a lot (and not just about how to film videos)! Thanks again for such great info and presenting it so well.
I ran the 882's on a couple of hot rods...never had a problem with cracking, but I sure had problems with the valve guides being worn. Once rebuilt though, they performed well.
The only head of those hump heads that had a tendency of cracks was the 461X heads , it had a tendency. Of cracks around the valve bowl and this wasn't my conclusion it was a old man that used to build these heads in orange county CA!
I am surprised that the 5.0L/5.7L Vortec heads weren't mentioned in this video. They are a Gen I small block. Those are also a very good choice port design in those heads were based off of the port design in the Gen II LT1's. 1.94/1.50 valve size with a unique multi angle valve seat from factory. Stock vs stock the Vortec's flow more than the camel hump heads, already have the hardened valve seats for use with unleaded. However they do need a little work if you want to run a higher lift cam. They also have a fast burn style combustion chamber.
One of the best stock heads the vortec also the Corvette 461 X head with sum port work it will flow as good as the stock Vortec head and the stock aluminum fast burn that's my 3 best stock heads but if you are going to do work on your heads go with the Vortec new intake bolts holes to run old still intake or go with Vortec intake manifolds the aluminum fast burn head has the old and the Vortec bolt holes big $ you get what you pay for 😂
I find that the info in your video to be very knowledgeable and accurate...I have been a SBC builder for over 30 years and back in the day when everyone wanted the 461's I always preferred the 041 heads..
Yes the 041 heads flow very well as the are essentially as the 461 heads but have the accessory holes for running a more modern pulley system..You can enlarge the intake valve to I believe a max of 2.05 ..You can also do some porting but for me a port match works wonders as these heads flow well to begin with especially for the street..
Well Joe I would have to ask what are your plans with the motor?? Porting and polishing is costly because of the amount of labor time and even worse if done by a sub-standard machine shop could cost you your heads ..Taking out too much material and getting into water jackets can make the heads worthless, so make sure the people doing the job have the experience and stand behind their work.. Now if it was me and my only use for this motor was the street I would do a port match with the intake and select a good cam, intake , carb and headers..But if the goal is a all out killer race engine I would most likely invest in a set of over the top aftermarket aluminum heads and save or sell the 461's.. The 461's were designed as a great street head and can be improved on to a degree but really still just a great street head..
oneforliberty oh alright thanks for the information because all I'm doing is a mild build, cam, headers, intake, carb, lifters, and rockers and just giving the whole motor a little refresh like bearings and everything
I've got the 333882 heads; I came across a video of cylinder head porting.. Would there be any noticeable benefit there? Or would I be screwing the pooch for no reason?
with fully ported 882's you will see 25 to 30 HP gain that's about it if you can do it yourself and have the time I'd say yes I wouldn't pay to have it done also it's important to remember head porting is not a matter of just hogging out ports it has to be done correctly It's easy to destroy the flow characteristics of a port if you take a little material out in the wrong spot.
Does the same go for the intake manifold, then? I've just picked up a Edelbrock 2101 performer intake manifold. And this is all on my currently rather wimpy 79 350. Thanks for the quick response, it's awesome to have somebody to bounce questions off of. Keep up the awesome vids!
i have a set of camel humps one set is the 202 angle plug ported to 204 water and oil ports ported and intake and exhaust were ported other is stock 194 heads got both for free but we give stuff to each other all the time on his birthday i give him a perfect body 57 pu it took 3 years collecting the perfect parts 55 grill with the 57 hood his dream truck when i give it to him all he could do is smile watching him try to talk was well worth it he watched me build it the hole time drooling over it never new it was for him
Seen a 396 bbc build you did. You talked about how wd40 is recommended for ring seating. I built a 40 over large journal 327 with true forged ft pistons, moly coated top ring and iron for 2nd. I used assembly lube on my rist pin area and ofcourse the r&b bearings but i only sprayed wd40 on my cylinders and the pistons and rings during assembly. No oil coating of the the cylinder or pistons and rings. That was maybe 4000 miles ago. 81 Malibu 410 posi, built turbo 350 and i run it hard. It does not smoke ever and it does not use oil. I know of some builds that didn't seat in as good as mine and i believe it's because the wd40 isn't as slick or oily and allows for proper seating. I think you said that's actually what it does and i can confirm it most definitely does. Just did a 60 over steoker same way but haven't had time to drive it yet, only break in the old Elgin 3030 solid that i put in it with a shaved set of 041x haeds. Should've bought name brand aluminum heads because i ended up with probably 850.00 in setting up mine.
I know we used alot of 441 76cc heads on stock and mild builds and the 416 58cc 305 H.O. heads for a cheap compression raise and super tourqey small block .
FYI: TrickFlow is going into production with an aluminum version of the 461 head with a slightly larger intake runner(175 CC as opposed to 170 CC) already set up for high lift cams. It will be budget oriented so it will be competitively priced to factory SBC head with the machine work to support the same type of valve train.
My friend randy bought these heads and they have a seal issue, infact the technician called him directly from trick flow and ask him how they are working? , they are good heads but not the best , AFR heads are the best! And not that much more expensive either!
best and easy to understand you video i have ever watched. you are straight to the point and explaining all options and why. very well said and not a bunch of riff raff and so slow like others i seen. could not have been more perfect . I know exactly what heads to get for my 70 c-10 truck that is stock other than edelbrock manifold and carb. thank you, your video is all i needed to know. great info thnx again
You should have said something about the 441 heads, lingenfelter wrote in his book. Them 1969 heads with the 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves are the true LT1 heads they experimented the year before they released them onto the 350 LT1 motor. Every one else also has a bad habit of calling fuelly heads as 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves, but actually the first Fulie motor was in the Corvette with the 327 motor in 1963 I think? But these heads had actually 1.94 intake valves and 1.50 exhaust, they named these heads the Fulie because of the fuel injection, great article, maybe you can do a special on the Fulie heads, LT1, and the 441 heads to educate people better on these heads. Have a good night my friend.
I've slapped together a 305 completely stock besides the rv cam and just added a turbo and it's a great daily with 480 hp and total cost was around 400 bucks and 80 of that was oil but u say best and worst heads the best head I've found is the 434 cast w 2.02 1.06 valves
I am a certified ADI technician and I can answer some of the harder questions. First Aluminum is lighter in the casting phase. Where you start to pay the piper is in the thickness of the material and the flexing of the cast. Aluminum has to be thrity percent thicker to have the same stength of a iron block. Now you have to add a windage tray to act as a brace for the bottom of the block(more weight) and you have to have iron sleeves in the block because the aluminum is to soft to stand up to the piston rings and any imperfection would cause a fissure i the cylinder wall. You can get he best of old and new. It is called the l59 and it is an iron block and iron heads with LS3 architecture. Some of these don't even have variable displacement and VVT. These are the last of the REAL SBCs and you have to look into a 2006 or earlier to get them. Anything after that has way too much EPA crap on it and it breaks OFTEN. I also own a Vortec V6 in an S10 that while mildly refreshed and still on the stock cam has broken dyno straps on 87 pump gas and done 12 inch wheel stands in second gear. The big brother 350 is even stronger and can be changed into a true beast if you want to spend two grand or so. Those are becoming rarer these days as they are all heading to Mexico by tradition after ten years(they really like American Muscle down there). And eventually we will be left with these LS based engines only and we will have to settle for the crap that the EPA will let GM and Dodge produce. Cest la vie, eventually we lose all good things and just shrug our shoulders and remember the "good ol' days". If we are truly lucky we will still own the great stuff and blow doors off of the sissies that settled for the crap they will be producing at the time. It is good be a gangsta with old fashioned iron blocks that can put the new motors on the bbq spit for dinner
bigpigslapper Oink take a pair of grubby dirty 350 Vortecs from a 97 or 98 GM FS truck, spend an hour cleaning them up and then enjoy the rest of the day porting them to your liking. You'll find they flow amazing and are still a ton cheaper than the aftermarket bolt on stuff. I've run heads up against my buddies, my plain black smallblock topped with a Quadrajet against their chromed up $4000 bucks worth of bolt on Edelbrock aluminum heads, cam, intake, carb, roller valvetrain and spanked 'em hard, they don't care for that hahaha!! I really like this vid, it seems geared towards fellows like me, the do it yourselfers who enjoy ALL of what it takes to put a fast, daily driveable and safe vehicle onto the road, right from the rubber to the roof, we do it all ourselves with very few store bought parts. And I like to keep 'em all GM, Edelbrock stuff's okay I guess but just not for this old school Cowboy! Peace!
Access to a CNC mill for cc matching chambers and ports is not free unless you own the machine. So paying for the machinst's time, gets you a good pair of heads.
I have a set of 882s have a port and polish job on them with a set of flat tops and a moderate cam they work really well its around 380-420 crank hp and the things scream for what they are. I think they are excellent for a hot street mild strip engine on the cracking issue they really don't like to get hot but if your lucky they might not crack so just don't overheat them. just my 2 cents
camel humps, I always heard them called double humps, that spot you show the humps at, i've seen heads with a single hump, double hump, and some with a hump and a spike, or hump spike hump, shoulders with a spike in the middle, and other oddball stuff i can't recall never knew about the casting numbers, very cool info to know, nice video
I hope my combination runs decent. I went with a 355 running flat tops with a xe268 with a set of 186 1.94/1.50 valves. Basic porting to clean up the casting flash. Edelbrock rpm intake, Edelbrock 600, 2400 stall 350 turbo and a set of 3.42's All of this is going in a 79 cutlass. Hopefully it'll run hard for a street car and pull lower 13's, should be very streetable. Might step up to some RHS Vortecs one day.
Yes its true ford and Chevy firing orders are the same if u number the cylinders the same way they are different because of the way each numbers the cylinders but the order of firing is the same
Sorry, Myvintageiron7512; I want to clear up your misconceived notions on firing orders. Just as Frank289100 -Troll, was wrong on firing orders, stating: LS-1 Chevy firing order was a ripoff from Ford's 351C. Now read on.......Ford's early 289 and 302Non H-O, as well as the following 255, 260, 352, 360, 390, 410, 427, 428, 429, 430, 460, 462, all have this firing order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. How Ford numbers their cylinders:Passenger side bank 1-2-3-4. Drivers side bank 5-6-7-8. So that means on this group of small blocks, big blocks and Y blocks, they all have same flaw of #7 and #8 cylinders[same bank] firing in succession. Detonation/pre-ignition potential. The 302 5.0 HO, the 351 C,M,W, Small and Big blocks and the newer 4.6 and 4.7's Firing order of: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 have flaw of #6 and #5 cylinders on same bank firing in succession[Hot spot] Small block and big block 1st Gen Chevy's 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Firing order means that cylinders #5 and # 7 fire in succession. Zora Arkus Duntov was aware in 1958 that #7 cylinder on any little Chevy always ran [Hot]Lean.. Some dual plane trickery helped. The Chevy LS-1 has firing order of: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 No adjacent pair fire in succession. Better mixture distribution and better harmonics in the Intake tract. Less loads on rod and main bearings. In factory stock class in NHRA. Reverse cooling into the head[Legal- Mod] addressed some of the issues on #7 cylinder on 1st Gen Chevy. You have to run factory oem blank- Cam grind[Lift limit] per rules. If you just figured out, by what I have posted, that there maybe unlocked potential in any of the Ford or Chevy's listed above, with their cam sequence on factory index and you want to discuss options call your Cam guy. Custom grinds are stocked to address this issue. Intake and header changes are needed for changes in incoming and exiting flow.-Power lesson of the day.
Aye Bee The 351x, 302 HO and mod motors have the exact same firing sequence as the LSx GM engines. The written order is different due to the cylinders being different, yet the sequence is exactly the same. The thing you write about 5-6 on the Ford engine you claim is not present on the GM, but it is. The ORDER does not show this, but the SEQUENCE does. 13726548 is the exact same sequence as 54318726 (same ORDER, same SEQUENCE, different NUMBERS). Note that 3-1 on the GM are subsequent firing - this is the exact same as 6-5 on the Ford. In other words, 18726543 is also 187265431872654318726543 ... get it?
Aye Bee you said "Sorry, Myvintageiron7512; I want to clear up your misconceived notions on firing orders" I don't dis agree with with what you said except for the (misconceived notions) part all I said was ford and Chevy firing orders are the same if u number the cylinders the same way, you didn't even address that! the 4/7 swap cam is no secret and the flaw in the Chevy and early Ford firing order is common knowledge I was just making the point that they are the same sequence because Mr. FORD RULES THE WORLD would have a spaz attack when he realized this is true
I have a set of #187 heads they have been rebuilt. I also have a 1985 chevy 305 still good engine just gonna but new gaskets on. And put it in my car till o can afford a crate 350. Will my 187 heads work on the 86 305?
I hope my combination runs decent. I went with a 355 running flat tops with a xe268 with a set of 186 1.94/1.50 valves. Basic porting to clean up the casting flash. Edelbrock rpm intake, Edelbrock 600, 2400 stall 350 turbo and a set of 3.42's All of this is going in a 79 cutlass. Hopefully it'll run hard for a street car and pull lower 13's, should be very streetable. Might step up to some RHS Vortecs one day.
I never waste my time here on your channel. Always learning something. This video came up when searching for "trying to find a sbc head with a water port in drivers side? Also my heads are not a number you called out there on this video. Here is what I found about the engine I bought recently for a driver in my 56 chevy. Block Casting #3970010-- 350-Made by Gm from 69 to 80 with two and four bolt mains. mine is 2 bolt main. Heads Casting #14102191--Center bolt heads made by GM-87 and up. Can you give me any advice or info on this head as far as being okay? Or do I need to change them out to a different head. And what the heck does the brass fitting connect to just below the oil filler cap on vc? Thanks so much! Your awesome and a sbc genius.
I have a 1973 Corvette C3 L48 195 HP 350 engine with "882 smog crap" (76cc chamber) heads, but to keep the car number matched I reworked and gasket match the crappy stock iron heads, installed screw fit rocker studs, kept the small 1.94 stock valve size but changed to new Manley stainless valves and bronce guides, gave the seats a rework too...enlarged the intake runners a little... Chevy V8 Engine block got TRW made forged new old stock 0.30 oversized LT1 copy domed pistons on pink LT1 forged rods giving 10.5:1 static CR with the L48 76cc heads, pistons and rods weight matched, original cast crank in 2 bolt block remained only got a cleaning and ballancing, Camshaft is a LS46 GM cam copy by Elgin (E921p Duration At .050" Lift 224/224, Intake Valve Lift:.450" Exhaust Valve Lift:.460" ) ...intake manifold is a Edelbrock performer with 750 Edelbrock quad carb...engine runs like a champ giving German 350 DIN HP (Not SAE) on rolling road, pretty much like the original 1970 LT1 and L46. It does not need lots of expensive trick stuff to get a decent street performance engine.
Thanks for a great video. Appears I'm a bit late to the game as this was made a few years ago. Question. You suggested the 3987(041), but I can't seem to find that casting in any cross reference. I could find a 3947(041). Is that casting still considered one of the "best" in your opinion? I'm building an 85 K10 for a daily driver and light towing.
Nice video, thanks for uploading. I have had good luck with 882's that I put on mild stroker motors with low valve overlap cams, I do match the ports however but I don't think it makes that much of a difference as everything I build rarely sees 5k RPM. I look forward to more of your videos.
I’ve got the same heads on my 383 stroker but my 882’s came off a 1974 Camaro so they have the big 2.020 intake valves and the 1.60 exhaust valves so I’m using them for now but I plan on getting some SR Torquer heads from World Products and see how they do
There is another machinist on here that talked about date codes on heads. He stated he found over the years that you could tell by the day of the week differences in quality of the heads... He said he noticed that Monday and Friday heads took the most work to shape them up. That Tuesday-Thursday heads were of better quality workmanship... Nobody wants to be at work on Monday or Friday...
I had a 350 in a truck years ago. The heads were 53cc. It made a rediculous amount of power. 68 GMC that could pull the front end. I didn't build the engine, but did add some aftermarket parts. I was putting down low 11's on slicks.
Its a shame you were running the 1/8th mile ,that equates to about a 17.16 second quarter mile time(total shit) any vehicle will seem like the front end is lifting.
Holy Crap ! Some pretty good embellished stories about past race cars . I had a 66 Chevelle 435 hp 427 4spd 4.11 12blt . Drum brakes . Really fast and really scary to stop. End of story !
Ive been buying a bunch of parts from a customer of my work and was trying to get a 350 he had sitting in the corner of the garage he was building until i saw the Camelbacks on it and i knew i wouldnt get it from him lol
It’s interesting how the slang has changed over time. We called em “double hump” heads and when referring to the valve sizes, it either had two oh two/one sixties or one ninety four/one fifties. 186, 462, 291 041 were double humps too. Thank you for the video!👍
Sorry folks Google has made it so I cannot respond to your comments directly so I will reply here just scroll up to see my response or email me directly at vintageiron7512@yahoo.com
great explanation. thanks! at a swap meet, i found a set of 461 heads with 1.94" intake valves i'm about to put on my '65 elcamino (gotta deadline of 5 weeks to complete at this point for a work related car show). it's a 283 with flat top pistons. i'm running an electric fan, and power nothing, manual steering, no ac etc, so only the alternator is run off a belt, and the alternator bracket is bolted to the exhaust bolts on cyl 1, so i lucked out there since these 461's have no accessory mounts. what do you think my comp ratio is going to be? general numbers are ok, just hoping to get close to the 10 range or above hopefully. going to run and edelbrock airgap dual plane, edelbrock 600 cfm carb and long tube headers. not going to be a beast, just a good little motor with decent spunk in my 3200 lb '65. going to watch some of your other vids now. thanks! sub'd!
i just purchased a 1984 chevy c10. i dropped it off at the mechanic shop,they took the motor apart and it had 350 heads on a 305 block. they told me that was trash the block. so now im going to get a 350 block. it has a 400 turbo transmission they are telling me i should get a turbo 350,what do you think.
I hope you kept the 400. I prefer sticks over autos anyway, but if you're building a hot rod, the 400 will hold up better than a 350. However, the 350s are lighter and can be built very strong.
Unless you are going ALL OUT stick with the TH 400. All out race applications a TH350 will always be faster than a TH400 due to parasitic drag. Build up a TH 350 with all hardened parts and you will make 18 hp more on a transmission dyno than a built TH400. If you are just goimg on the street low budget go with the TH400.
Love the videos, I have a question, I have a vortec headed 355 with flat top pistons, and a stock (1995) lt1 cam and I’m looking for suggestions as far as timing both initial and total. The car is an 86 Camaro with a 700r trans, 3.27 rear, dual plane intake and a 600 cfm Holley street warrior carb
I think i've an very interesting question for you, it's about the Gas in Germany... and If i've to take lead to the gas or not... At germany you've only the choice of 95, 98 or 100 octane Gas. There is no Gas station selling gas under 95 octane. I've bought an 67 Chevy Caprice 4 Door Hardtop with an 327 4bbl 275hp Turbofire Smallblock & TH400. I'm still restoring the whole car by myself, but the engine was made in a machine shop... It runs very well! Next time i've to check the Casting numbers... But i've a bill about a machine shop in Ohio USA, there i can read that the engine became hardened valve seats. Is this possible? With hardened valve seats i could use gas with higher das octane rate, right??? Your video about the heads and casting numbers is very helpful, THANK YOU VERY MUCH! :) I've subscribed & i'll look at your Channel now! Have a nice day, best greetings from germany, Bavaria!
Great info. I have a 72 Chevy 350 Camper Special for towing. Need to check what type of heads I have? I know it is a 4 bolt main, long stroke, high compression, mild Crane RV cam. Thinking of putting 062 Vortec heads on it for more power?
Man I love your videos. You are in my top 5 of sources for information and knowledge. Please keep up the excellent work educating us shade tree mechanics.
Thanks for all your research and posting this. Coming from LS and small block Ford I am building my first gen 1 small block from all free parts that people have given me over the years. It's a little junker 355 and someone gave me a pair of 993 heads that have been ported and valve job with 2.02/1.60. The big chamber should put me at 9:1 but that's ok. 87 octane turd.
We picked up camel hump heads for my sons 350 for 400$. They were machined for bigger valves 2.02 Intake and 1.6 exhaust. Even had the springs and rocker stud girdles. Sounds like a beast.
I know this is old... But still very relevant info. I'm also a former Engine Builder and Machinist. YES - totally agree with you on the 624 Heads!! JUNK! There's enough of the others to not use them. Now I have "successfully" built a few 350s with 305 Heads.... Do I suggest that the average person do it - NO. I even used 58cc Chamber 305 Heads with Dish Pistons, giving 10.6-1 Compression.... THE DIFFERENCE - I explained to the Customer that these would NOT be high revving, high Performance Engines! What they were, with Port Matching and mild Polishing and a Comp Cams 268H, was a Truck Torque BEAST. Fantastic from IDLE to 3500, but pretty much ran out of poop by about 4400-4800, with significant Torque loss between 3800 to Redline. Guys even reported getting significantly better Fuel Economy when not getting into it!! THAT was the late 70's to early 90's.... After that, it became obvious that you could practically "have your cake and eat it too" with a 383 Stroker! Possibly the best Chevy Small Block that Chevy never made. I'm really enjoying your Channel. You really know your shit, and have even taught me a few new things!! None of us know everything - it's always good to gain knowledge from someone who has had different experiences. 😉 Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Yea I have done quite a few 350's with 305 heads they are basically a truck work horse engine but you know sometimes that is what you need great landscaping truck engine and I agree they do get a little better mileage mostly in city driving
The 3987041 and 3987041X in particular were used as a warranty replacement heads in matched set for the 69 Z28 Camaro. My DZ Block cracked and the CE wedge piston replacement block came with 3987041X heads. I still own the Camaro today and wish you had noted the oversized intake and exhaust ports of the 041X heads. The X can be found on the bottom of the intake runner, if you've never seen one. If you want a Pic I have plenty.
Excellent, Most accurate info about SBC heads I have watched in many years. Been building street engines since the mid 70's. Now with 49 Years experience (Now 2022). My pick has been 041 since I first found them at Pick-A-Part in the late 70's in the Valley (SFV). Were produced for only 2½ years. Very hard to find Then... I would assume almost impossible to find now. 186 Castings were easier to find. Well Done.
Are there any cast iron Vortec heads in existence? Also, what is the most reliable, quality cast iron head (factory or aftermarket) over all? I don't care about it having performance/power? I just care about dependability and reliability.
is there anything special about the X at the end? Got a used set of 461X heads all machined with new guides and screw in rocker studs/guide plates for cheap off craigslist from a guy and wondering if they are anything special.
@Hugh O'Brien vortec head should be a much better head due to the port being taller the airflow is more direct to the valve it doesn't have to turn as much. Same reason why the LS heads flow so much better. It's not all about the size of the port but also the shape and how direct the flow path is. Im gonna be running a twin turbo blow through carb on e85 on small block 350 should make some wicked big power and fly like a rocket in my datsun 260z
That is some great information. I was building cars back in the 70's and have a couple of questions- What exactly is a "bathtub designed head"? I understand they could create up to 12-1 compression back in the day. Why don't people that want power, go 12-1 on all their engines instead of 10-1? Another question I have is back in the day a technology call extrude-hone, had just come out and the concept was great, on paper. What do you think of this process in real world conditions. Thank you and Much Respect. RH DSD
I have many sets of these heads 462,461, 291, ect , I have a set of 462 on my 72 vette that someone else installed , however the 462 didn't come with screw in studs, at least mine didn't, now the 492 did come with screw in studs and push rod guide plates but this was a performance head part number 3987376, from Chevrolet but discontinued in 1991 , in the early 70s the 492 head was available with angled spark plugs part number 336746 this was only available from Chevrolet for a short time and was never installed on a production vehicle. I'm definitely not saying I know everything about these head but I know plenty, Alot of what I know iv researched this and talked to many old timers that used these heads!
Need help here please....I have a 1979 Big 10 Square Body C10, (Actually it's a Bonanza Big 10) which came with every factory upgrade option Including the 350/5.7 ...also what I am having a problem understanding is, The Heads on it are 041 ("G Style" not like 041 on your bench in video) and these "G style" were used 1969-70 production Heads....BUT !!! How did they end up on my 1979 Truck with 40k original miles that has never been apart?? Thanks.
Thank you Sir! Learned a lot from your lesson on heads. I have a 72 Corvette (K model). I was thinking of pulling the engine and doing the 383 stroker thing to it. Are the stock heads worth keeping?
well I ended up with the junk 624's cause they had been tricked out. Guess I'll have to trick someone into taking them off my hands. I ended up with a small journal 337 (.60 over) that had one 186 head and one 185, so now I'm looking for a single 186 or 041 I guess is similar/same? Thanks for this comprehensive info, I will subscribe.
The 882 arent so bad IMO, back in the mid to late 90s, i had a built .030 over 350cid 4bolt main, 4valve relief flat top piston engine, along with a combination of other performance enhancers(all motor, no spray) in a street/strip driven '75 chevelle and it helped produce consistant 14.40s @ 96mph in the 1/4mile. Now granted, for what im about to tell you would be considered a waste in yours as well as everyone elses oppinion and i am inclined to agree, but i had these same heads thoroughly checked, then ported and polished, rocker stud bosses milled for screw in studs, SS 1.94int/1.60exh valves along with new springs/locks/retainers and valve seals to use with a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft. Now dont be too harsh on me, it was my very 1st high performance engine build, so i experimented some with what i had atm and it appeared to have worked out for me in the end. But i did upgrade to much better aftermarket heads later on for a better performance to price ratio... rumor has it, even when using all the wrong parts, chevy engines still make great power. lol
Bige4u you had basically the exact engine I do. 882 heads and 4 valve relief flat top pistons. It has less than 5000 miles on it and I paid $50 for the fully dressed engine lol.
That's right folks, what he said about old factory heads vs new aftermarket is true, you'll never get them to run as good, so if you find an old set of " camel back" do not destroy them with a hopeless cause, see to it that they make it to a proper restoration on a car that needs them, please don't destroy something that historically rare in this day and age.
I agree if the car has no historical value and does not need to be numbers matching just go aftermarket or at least something stock that has no historical value
Myvintageiron7512 thank you for the info, I am trying to rebuild by myself a 350 goodwrench using the made in Mexico heads, it's going to be a "road kill style " I'm going to reuse 7 pistons, same used rings and rods from that 350, , an internal balance crank, camshaft , lifters and one piston that came off my 77 c10 old block, but, New oil pump, gaskets and rod and main both blocks they all are std size. It was a project 84 c10 that me and my dad were trying to build together, but unfortunately last December he passed away and even though it still hurts, I want to do it to honor him and so he can be proud of me. I would like to ask you if you think it's possible to use those parts and make a great 350? Thank you again Sir for all the great videos and awesome content you make, you are awesome!! Thank you and God Bless.
Yes sir... I do have a question but a quick catch up is inorder. I'm buying an 89' chevy pickup. 4x4 but the motor that is in it runs bad. The guy that owns it didn't go into detail. He has another motor he started building and it has been bored 30 over with new pistons installed, stock crank. He has an after market set of 906 vortex heads he wants to sell with the motor. Firstly, are those heads going to be adequate for the block and the cam is an edelbrok that produces 245ft lbs of torque. Secondly, what cam should I run to pull my 89' avalon camper but when I'm not pulling it, still have alot of hp and torque so when I hit the pedal it's there?
I just bought a set of 369 heads with 2.02 intake and 1.5 exhaust with screw in rocker studs and push rod guide plates. I'm wondering if they are a good performance head? I had to give up my 487 heads because the machinist said they were too far gone. Did the machinist give me a equally performing set of heads by selling me the 369's?
The #882 casting he mentions is a thin wall lightweight casting. A 74-76cc smog head that rules say have to be run in claimer class circle track. Junk. To make power you might believe that you need to bump up compression. On a 350 with the #882 76cc head you will need a big dome on the piston and flame travel and resulting burn will be crap. The #882 works okay on a 350/383 stroker or the factory small-block 400 with a flattop a CR of 10-1/2 to 1. Detonation is no ones buddy. The burn would be acceptable-Just take advantage of the 4.125" bore of the 400 and resulting increased CR of swept volume. Learn=math. Make sure the #882 heads you use on your 400 block have steam holes. The 400 blocks were Siamese inner-pair bores and No. 7 cylinder runs hot on any small Chevy. Mixture distribution is key to survival. If you find Vigin pre 1971 small block castings you have to run 1.94 size intake valves to have hardened exhaust seat installed. You cannot run old 60's era fuelie[camel hump] with 2.02 intake valve and a hardened seat. No room. Don't waste $$$ on welded iron heads. Buy Brodix or AFR alloy. Save long run dollar$$$ or be last and slow. The supply of the good heads described by[Not the video guy] David Vizard's HP Chevy head book is from two decades ago. Most good thick casting 1.94's are gone. Racers scoured the yards twenty years ago. I did this professionally then. More good heads have been ruined by idiots with a 25 dollar grinder and stones and zero experience Buy a book or make another pair of heads that flow worse than stock, puddle fuel and fall on their face at all rpm ranges. Almost all the good heads he described are gone. People need to be aware that swap meet heads and "finds" may have been angle milled and will not seal unless you measure and machine your intake. They will have cracks inside intake port from porting and heat stress from detonation and racing. Beware! Learning curve is steep on "ported heads" Have the seller or porter show actual flow bench numbers for the special heads and crack free afidavit, or expect to get hosed. A Shop vac "or two in tandem" is not a flow bench- If it cannot pull 40hg of vacuum and accurately measure 350cfm in an intake port it 'aint real.
I have a pair of those also, I asked him here in the comments about them, and he said they perform about the same as the 186 heads.....I will keep them forever just cuz those angled plugs just look so badass....lol.
Thanks a lot for this info! Very helpful! What are your thoughts on stock vortec heads off a 96-00 5.7 liter truck engine? I have a tbi 5.7 converted to carburetor in my 87 Monte. I wanted to change to vortec heads and a L82 corvette cam, and keep it carbureted. I'm running a spreadbore holley 650 dp on a quadrajet intake. It does great up to 3500rpms then after 35k rpms it just kinda runs out of power. HELP!!
Myvintageiron7512 Thanks a bunch! I'm glad you replied because I tend to be scared I'm going to use too big of a carburetor. I should probably get me a better intake too. I really appreciate it man!
I know this is an old video, but Im looking to get some decent power out of my TBI 350, and I've heard the stock heads are the worst out there. I'm not looking for a ton of power, maybe 350-400 to the crank, and im not sure what to go with. I'd like to drop a cam in it too. (i plan on changing the intake manifold and exhaust prior to any head/cam changes)
might be a little late but the vortec 350 heads are THE best flowing factory heads available on the snallblock, can be found at any junkyard too. the 90' tahoes/suburbans/and ck trucks used them, only issue is you need to use vortec style intake manifold due to the different port sizes, but I'd recommend the red Victor intake, very nice flow, hope I helped some.
might be a little late but the vortec 350 heads are THE best flowing factory heads available on the snallblock, can be found at any junkyard too. the 90' tahoes/suburbans/and ck trucks used them, only issue is you need to use vortec style intake manifold due to the different port sizes, but I'd recommend the red Victor intake, very nice flow, hope I helped some.
You just saved me from spending a lot of money on redoing my 991 heads, I have a good set of 882 heads lying around as well. Thank you!
andres lopez get the 993 heads the best 76cc heads besides the 441’s. The 441 use the large 13/16 spark plug.
Raced several yrs. running Hobbystocks, ran Double humps then those were outlawed and ran a lot off 993s, 882, But the best heads we found were the 441 and the 441X. These heads were what everyone wanted back in the day. Now everyone who doesn't run Crate motors run the EQ heads.
Thanks so much for such an informative and well-organized video on 350 heads. The more a person knows; the more of an expert they are, the more humble they are (usually). When you said, "I don't know everything, but I know a lot", I knew right there that you know what the hell you're talking about. Other guys that don't know 1/10th of what you know will say, "I know everything about 350 Chevy heads!" I wish other RUclipsrs that do informational videos took the time to get organized and chock their videos with as much info as you do. Hopefully some of them will check out your videos, because they could learn a lot (and not just about how to film videos)! Thanks again for such great info and presenting it so well.
I ran the 882's on a couple of hot rods...never had a problem with cracking, but I sure had problems with the valve guides being worn. Once rebuilt though, they performed well.
The only head of those hump heads that had a tendency of cracks was the 461X heads , it had a tendency. Of cracks around the valve bowl and this wasn't my conclusion it was a old man that used to build these heads in orange county CA!
I am surprised that the 5.0L/5.7L Vortec heads weren't mentioned in this video. They are a Gen I small block. Those are also a very good choice port design in those heads were based off of the port design in the Gen II LT1's. 1.94/1.50 valve size with a unique multi angle valve seat from factory. Stock vs stock the Vortec's flow more than the camel hump heads, already have the hardened valve seats for use with unleaded. However they do need a little work if you want to run a higher lift cam. They also have a fast burn style combustion chamber.
I like that Vortec Head.
Would that Vortec Head hold up on a small Shot of Nitrous?🤔
One of the best stock heads the vortec also the Corvette 461 X head with sum port work it will flow as good as the stock Vortec head and the stock aluminum fast burn that's my 3 best stock heads but if you are going to do work on your heads go with the Vortec new intake bolts holes to run old still intake or go with Vortec intake manifolds the aluminum fast burn head has the old and the Vortec bolt holes big $ you get what you pay for 😂
I find that the info in your video to be very knowledgeable and accurate...I have been a SBC builder for over 30 years and back in the day when everyone wanted the 461's I always preferred the 041 heads..
oneforliberty are the 041 heads good flowing heads and how can I make them better
Yes the 041 heads flow very well as the are essentially as the 461 heads but have the accessory holes for running a more modern pulley system..You can enlarge the intake valve to I believe a max of 2.05 ..You can also do some porting but for me a port match works wonders as these heads flow well to begin with especially for the street..
oneforliberty I just picked up a 350 with 461 heads and I was going to send them in to get ported and polished, is it worth it??
Well Joe I would have to ask what are your plans with the motor?? Porting and polishing is costly because of the amount of labor time and even worse if done by a sub-standard machine shop could cost you your heads ..Taking out too much material and getting into water jackets can make the heads worthless, so make sure the people doing the job have the experience and stand behind their work..
Now if it was me and my only use for this motor was the street I would do a port match with the intake and select a good cam, intake , carb and headers..But if the goal is a all out killer race engine I would most likely invest in a set of over the top aftermarket aluminum heads and save or sell the 461's.. The 461's were designed as a great street head and can be improved on to a degree but really still just a great street head..
oneforliberty oh alright thanks for the information because all I'm doing is a mild build, cam, headers, intake, carb, lifters, and rockers and just giving the whole motor a little refresh like bearings and everything
I've got the 333882 heads; I came across a video of cylinder head porting.. Would there be any noticeable benefit there? Or would I be screwing the pooch for no reason?
with fully ported 882's you will see 25 to 30 HP gain that's about it if you can do it yourself and have the time I'd say yes I wouldn't pay to have it done also it's important to remember head porting is not a matter of just hogging out ports it has to be done correctly It's easy to destroy the flow characteristics of a port if you take a little material out in the wrong spot.
Does the same go for the intake manifold, then? I've just picked up a Edelbrock 2101 performer intake manifold. And this is all on my currently rather wimpy 79 350. Thanks for the quick response, it's awesome to have somebody to bounce questions off of. Keep up the awesome vids!
i have a set of camel humps one set is the 202 angle plug ported to 204 water and oil ports ported and intake and exhaust were ported other is stock 194 heads got both for free but we give stuff to each other all the time on his birthday i give him a perfect body 57 pu it took 3 years collecting the perfect parts 55 grill with the 57 hood his dream truck when i give it to him all he could do is smile watching him try to talk was well worth it he watched me build it the hole time drooling over it never new it was for him
For a 383 tbi stroker aftermarket heads work the best the tbi heads were not very good performers
Seen a 396 bbc build you did. You talked about how wd40 is recommended for ring seating. I built a 40 over large journal 327 with true forged ft pistons, moly coated top ring and iron for 2nd. I used assembly lube on my rist pin area and ofcourse the r&b bearings but i only sprayed wd40 on my cylinders and the pistons and rings during assembly. No oil coating of the the cylinder or pistons and rings. That was maybe 4000 miles ago. 81 Malibu 410 posi, built turbo 350 and i run it hard. It does not smoke ever and it does not use oil. I know of some builds that didn't seat in as good as mine and i believe it's because the wd40 isn't as slick or oily and allows for proper seating. I think you said that's actually what it does and i can confirm it most definitely does. Just did a 60 over steoker same way but haven't had time to drive it yet, only break in the old Elgin 3030 solid that i put in it with a shaved set of 041x haeds. Should've bought name brand aluminum heads because i ended up with probably 850.00 in setting up mine.
I realize u can use 305 head's it will run even better with a 350 head if everything is equal
I know we used alot of 441 76cc heads on stock and mild builds and the 416 58cc 305 H.O. heads for a cheap compression raise and super tourqey small block .
FYI: TrickFlow is going into production with an aluminum version of the 461 head with a slightly larger intake runner(175 CC as opposed to 170 CC) already set up for high lift cams. It will be budget oriented so it will be competitively priced to factory SBC head with the machine work to support the same type of valve train.
My friend randy bought these heads and they have a seal issue, infact the technician called him directly from trick flow and ask him how they are working? , they are good heads but not the best , AFR heads are the best! And not that much more expensive either!
Grump ran 11.66 with 461 heads back in 1966.
best and easy to understand you video i have ever watched. you are straight to the point and explaining all options and why. very well said and not a bunch of riff raff and so slow like others i seen. could not have been more perfect . I know exactly what heads to get for my 70 c-10 truck that is stock other than edelbrock manifold and carb. thank you, your video is all i needed to know. great info thnx again
Glad it helped Thanks
The casting numbers are under the valve covers
You should have said something about the 441 heads, lingenfelter wrote in his book. Them 1969 heads with the 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves are the true LT1 heads they experimented the year before they released them onto the 350 LT1 motor. Every one else also has a bad habit of calling fuelly heads as 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves, but actually the first Fulie motor was in the Corvette with the 327 motor in 1963 I think? But these heads had actually 1.94 intake valves and 1.50 exhaust, they named these heads the Fulie because of the fuel injection, great article, maybe you can do a special on the Fulie heads, LT1, and the 441 heads to educate people better on these heads. Have a good night my friend.
Dont waste your time with the 305 wait until u have enough $$ to drop in a 350
Myvintageiron7512
The 350 does not cost more than a 305 to build the core may be more but the build is basically the same 305 are ok for stock stuff
Myvintageiron7512 how we y dx çqx
I've slapped together a 305 completely stock besides the rv cam and just added a turbo and it's a great daily with 480 hp and total cost was around 400 bucks and 80 of that was oil but u say best and worst heads the best head I've found is the 434 cast w 2.02 1.06 valves
put the crack pipe down....lmao...480hp? Do you understand how stupid you sound?
Agreed Thats why I flow tested all of them and based the video on them
You should do a another vid covering the "292" turbo and the Phase 1 "034" and Phase 2 "034" heads
Love my 292 angle plug heads...
I am a certified ADI technician and I can answer some of the harder questions. First Aluminum is lighter in the casting phase. Where you start to pay the piper is in the thickness of the material and the flexing of the cast. Aluminum has to be thrity percent thicker to have the same stength of a iron block. Now you have to add a windage tray to act as a brace for the bottom of the block(more weight) and you have to have iron sleeves in the block because the aluminum is to soft to stand up to the piston rings and any imperfection would cause a fissure i the cylinder wall. You can get he best of old and new. It is called the l59 and it is an iron block and iron heads with LS3 architecture. Some of these don't even have variable displacement and VVT. These are the last of the REAL SBCs and you have to look into a 2006 or earlier to get them. Anything after that has way too much EPA crap on it and it breaks OFTEN. I also own a Vortec V6 in an S10 that while mildly refreshed and still on the stock cam has broken dyno straps on 87 pump gas and done 12 inch wheel stands in second gear. The big brother 350 is even stronger and can be changed into a true beast if you want to spend two grand or so. Those are becoming rarer these days as they are all heading to Mexico by tradition after ten years(they really like American Muscle down there). And eventually we will be left with these LS based engines only and we will have to settle for the crap that the EPA will let GM and Dodge produce. Cest la vie, eventually we lose all good things and just shrug our shoulders and remember the "good ol' days". If we are truly lucky we will still own the great stuff and blow doors off of the sissies that settled for the crap they will be producing at the time. It is good be a gangsta with old fashioned iron blocks that can put the new motors on the bbq spit for dinner
Don't bother with anything besides the Vortec heads.
Pored vortec heads can rival new aluminum aftermarket heads.
I agree Vortec's are the way to go
Not An Argument. big tittes
bigpigslapper Oink take a pair of grubby dirty 350 Vortecs from a 97 or 98 GM FS truck, spend an hour cleaning them up and then enjoy the rest of the day porting them to your liking. You'll find they flow amazing and are still a ton cheaper than the aftermarket bolt on stuff. I've run heads up against my buddies, my plain black smallblock topped with a Quadrajet against their chromed up $4000 bucks worth of bolt on Edelbrock aluminum heads, cam, intake, carb, roller valvetrain and spanked 'em hard, they don't care for that hahaha!! I really like this vid, it seems geared towards fellows like me, the do it yourselfers who enjoy ALL of what it takes to put a fast, daily driveable and safe vehicle onto the road, right from the rubber to the roof, we do it all ourselves with very few store bought parts. And I like to keep 'em all GM, Edelbrock stuff's okay I guess but just not for this old school Cowboy!
Peace!
Access to a CNC mill for cc matching chambers and ports is not free unless you own the machine. So paying for the machinst's time, gets you a good pair of heads.
And easiest to crack
I have a set of 882s have a port and polish job on them with a set of flat tops and a moderate cam they work really well its around 380-420 crank hp and the things scream for what they are. I think they are excellent for a hot street mild strip engine on the cracking issue they really don't like to get hot but if your lucky they might not crack so just don't overheat them. just my 2 cents
You know your stuff!!!! Thanks for letting the young guys know about this old school technology!!!!
camel humps, I always heard them called double humps, that spot you show the humps at, i've seen heads with a single hump, double hump, and some with a hump and a spike, or hump spike hump, shoulders with a spike in the middle, and other oddball stuff i can't recall
never knew about the casting numbers, very cool info to know, nice video
Great video man gave a lot of great information!! Keep them coming
I hope my combination runs decent. I went with a 355 running flat tops with a xe268 with a set of 186 1.94/1.50 valves. Basic porting to clean up the casting flash. Edelbrock rpm intake, Edelbrock 600, 2400 stall 350 turbo and a set of 3.42's
All of this is going in a 79 cutlass. Hopefully it'll run hard for a street car and pull lower 13's, should be very streetable. Might step up to some RHS Vortecs one day.
Rock bottom Racing
Yes its true ford and Chevy firing orders are the same if u number the cylinders the same way they are different because of the way each numbers the cylinders but the order of firing is the same
Sorry, Myvintageiron7512; I want to clear up your misconceived notions on firing orders.
Just as Frank289100 -Troll, was wrong on firing orders, stating: LS-1 Chevy firing order was a ripoff from Ford's 351C.
Now read on.......Ford's early 289 and 302Non H-O, as well as the following 255, 260, 352, 360, 390, 410, 427, 428, 429, 430, 460, 462, all have this firing order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
How Ford numbers their cylinders:Passenger side bank 1-2-3-4. Drivers side bank 5-6-7-8. So that means on this group of small blocks, big blocks and Y blocks, they all have same flaw of #7 and #8 cylinders[same bank] firing in succession. Detonation/pre-ignition potential.
The 302 5.0 HO, the 351 C,M,W, Small and Big blocks and the newer 4.6 and 4.7's Firing order of: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 have flaw of #6 and #5 cylinders on same bank firing in succession[Hot spot]
Small block and big block 1st Gen Chevy's 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Firing order means that cylinders #5 and # 7 fire in succession. Zora Arkus Duntov was aware in 1958 that #7 cylinder on any little Chevy always ran [Hot]Lean.. Some dual plane trickery helped.
The Chevy LS-1 has firing order of: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 No adjacent pair fire in succession.
Better mixture distribution and better harmonics in the Intake tract. Less loads on rod and main bearings.
In factory stock class in NHRA. Reverse cooling into the head[Legal- Mod] addressed some of the issues on #7 cylinder on 1st Gen Chevy. You have to run factory oem blank- Cam grind[Lift limit] per rules.
If you just figured out, by what I have posted, that there maybe unlocked potential in any of the Ford or Chevy's listed above, with their cam sequence on factory index and you want to discuss options call your Cam guy. Custom grinds are stocked to address this issue. Intake and header changes are needed for changes in incoming and exiting flow.-Power lesson of the day.
Aye Bee
The 351x, 302 HO and mod motors have the exact same firing sequence as the LSx GM engines. The written order is different due to the cylinders being different, yet the sequence is exactly the same. The thing you write about 5-6 on the Ford engine you claim is not present on the GM, but it is. The ORDER does not show this, but the SEQUENCE does. 13726548 is the exact same sequence as 54318726 (same ORDER, same SEQUENCE, different NUMBERS). Note that 3-1 on the GM are subsequent firing - this is the exact same as 6-5 on the Ford.
In other words, 18726543 is also 187265431872654318726543 ... get it?
Aye Bee you said "Sorry, Myvintageiron7512; I want to clear up your misconceived notions on firing orders"
I don't dis agree with with what you said except for the (misconceived notions) part all I said was ford and Chevy firing orders are the same if u number the cylinders the same way, you didn't even address that! the 4/7 swap cam is no secret and the flaw in the Chevy and early Ford firing order is common knowledge I was just making the point that they are the same sequence because Mr. FORD RULES THE WORLD would have a spaz attack when he realized this is true
Aye Bee thanks
I have a set of #187 heads they have been rebuilt. I also have a 1985 chevy 305 still good engine just gonna but new gaskets on. And put it in my car till o can afford a crate 350. Will my 187 heads work on the 86 305?
Thank you very much for this video. I really appreciate it. God bless you and your family. Duane.
I hope my combination runs decent. I went with a 355 running flat tops with a xe268 with a set of 186 1.94/1.50 valves. Basic porting to clean up the casting flash. Edelbrock rpm intake, Edelbrock 600, 2400 stall 350 turbo and a set of 3.42's
All of this is going in a 79 cutlass. Hopefully it'll run hard for a street car and pull lower 13's, should be very streetable. Might step up to some RHS Vortecs one day.
i have something similar in my monte im sure the cutty gets up
I never waste my time here on your channel. Always learning something. This video came up when searching for "trying to find a sbc head with a water port in drivers side? Also my heads are not a number you called out there on this video. Here is what I found about the engine I bought recently for a driver in my 56 chevy. Block Casting #3970010-- 350-Made by Gm from 69 to 80 with two and four bolt mains. mine is 2 bolt main.
Heads Casting #14102191--Center bolt heads made by GM-87 and up. Can you give me any advice or info on this head as far as being okay? Or do I need to change them out to a different head. And what the heck does the brass fitting connect to just below the oil filler cap on vc? Thanks so much! Your awesome and a sbc genius.
I have a 1973 Corvette C3 L48 195 HP 350 engine with "882 smog crap" (76cc chamber) heads, but to keep the car number matched I reworked and gasket match the crappy stock iron heads, installed screw fit rocker studs, kept the small 1.94 stock valve size but changed to new Manley stainless valves and bronce guides, gave the seats a rework too...enlarged the intake runners a little... Chevy V8 Engine block got TRW made forged new old stock 0.30 oversized LT1 copy domed pistons on pink LT1 forged rods giving 10.5:1 static CR with the L48 76cc heads, pistons and rods weight matched, original cast crank in 2 bolt block remained only got a cleaning and ballancing, Camshaft is a LS46 GM cam copy by Elgin (E921p Duration At .050" Lift 224/224, Intake Valve Lift:.450" Exhaust Valve Lift:.460" ) ...intake manifold is a Edelbrock performer with 750 Edelbrock quad carb...engine runs like a champ giving German 350 DIN HP (Not SAE) on rolling road, pretty much like the original 1970 LT1 and L46. It does not need lots of expensive trick stuff to get a decent street performance engine.
Thanks for a great video. Appears I'm a bit late to the game as this was made a few years ago. Question. You suggested the 3987(041), but I can't seem to find that casting in any cross reference. I could find a 3947(041). Is that casting still considered one of the "best" in your opinion? I'm building an 85 K10 for a daily driver and light towing.
Nice video, thanks for uploading. I have had good luck with 882's that I put on mild stroker motors with low valve overlap cams, I do match the ports however but I don't think it makes that much of a difference as everything I build rarely sees 5k RPM. I look forward to more of your videos.
882 castings are set up for unleaded fuel
882s are the worst
I’ve got the same heads on my 383 stroker but my 882’s came off a 1974 Camaro so they have the big 2.020 intake valves and the 1.60 exhaust valves so I’m using them for now but I plan on getting some SR Torquer heads from World Products and see how they do
@@justinthompson3577 better than 624’s
There is another machinist on here that talked about date codes on heads. He stated he found over the years that you could tell by the day of the week differences in quality of the heads... He said he noticed that Monday and Friday heads took the most work to shape them up. That Tuesday-Thursday heads were of better quality workmanship... Nobody wants to be at work on Monday or Friday...
That’s a horseshit urban myth that is prevalent across all aspects of automotive manufacturing.
It does cross over to boats. I’ve never bought a boat made on a Monday or Friday
I had a 350 in a truck years ago. The heads were 53cc. It made a rediculous amount of power. 68 GMC that could pull the front end. I didn't build the engine, but did add some aftermarket parts. I was putting down low 11's on slicks.
Low 11's? "SOME aftermarket parts?" cough-cough-Gasser numbers-almost.
Its a shame you were running the 1/8th mile ,that equates to about a 17.16 second quarter mile time(total shit)
any vehicle will seem like the front end is lifting.
Great job, now how about after market heads , cast iron and alum. ?
Holy Crap ! Some pretty good embellished stories about past race cars . I had a 66 Chevelle 435 hp 427 4spd 4.11 12blt . Drum brakes . Really fast and really scary to stop. End of story !
i still use my double hump heads all the time, hard to find anymore
Ive been buying a bunch of parts from a customer of my work and was trying to get a 350 he had sitting in the corner of the garage he was building until i saw the Camelbacks on it and i knew i wouldnt get it from him lol
@@hasty-carnaage1518 koookLee
That’s what i have double humps 🔥
It’s interesting how the slang has changed over time. We called em “double hump” heads and when referring to the valve sizes, it either had two oh two/one sixties or one ninety four/one fifties. 186, 462, 291 041 were double humps too. Thank you for the video!👍
@@TyTanium1294 I like "Humper Heads".......😃👍😮
Sorry folks Google has made it so I cannot respond to your comments directly so I will reply here just scroll up to see my response or email me directly at vintageiron7512@yahoo.com
great explanation. thanks! at a swap meet, i found a set of 461 heads with 1.94" intake valves i'm about to put on my '65 elcamino (gotta deadline of 5 weeks to complete at this point for a work related car show). it's a 283 with flat top pistons. i'm running an electric fan, and power nothing, manual steering, no ac etc, so only the alternator is run off a belt, and the alternator bracket is bolted to the exhaust bolts on cyl 1, so i lucked out there since these 461's have no accessory mounts. what do you think my comp ratio is going to be? general numbers are ok, just hoping to get close to the 10 range or above hopefully. going to run and edelbrock airgap dual plane, edelbrock 600 cfm carb and long tube headers. not going to be a beast, just a good little motor with decent spunk in my 3200 lb '65. going to watch some of your other vids now. thanks! sub'd!
i just purchased a 1984 chevy c10. i dropped it off at the mechanic shop,they took the motor apart and it had 350 heads on a 305 block. they told me that was trash the block. so now im going to get a 350 block. it has a 400 turbo transmission they are telling me i should get a turbo 350,what do you think.
I hope you kept the 400. I prefer sticks over autos anyway, but if you're building a hot rod, the 400 will hold up better than a 350. However, the 350s are lighter and can be built very strong.
Unless you are going ALL OUT stick with the TH 400. All out race applications a TH350 will always be faster than a TH400 due to parasitic drag. Build up a TH 350 with all hardened parts and you will make 18 hp more on a transmission dyno than a built TH400. If you are just goimg on the street low budget go with the TH400.
There's such a thing called a trans dyno?!
that moment when i watch this in 2019 and am about to put 624 heads on my 350. oh well ill look for better ones when they crack xD
Did they crack yet?
@@Carterprobinson I don't know there's two different 624 heads ones that crack and ones that don't. lol they had two different casting methods
i have a 1987 chevy truck with a 350 in it and it is week i would like to pep it up just a little
What about the 883 heads? The racers around here used to look high and low for those.
Rebel Howell my couson and his buddies ran them too,
Thanks for the information... getting ready to go down that rabbit 🐇 hole with someone else's project that they inherited...!
Love the videos, I have a question, I have a vortec headed 355 with flat top pistons, and a stock (1995) lt1 cam and I’m looking for suggestions as far as timing both initial and total. The car is an 86 Camaro with a 700r trans, 3.27 rear, dual plane intake and a 600 cfm Holley street warrior carb
I think i've an very interesting question for you, it's about the Gas in Germany... and If i've to take lead to the gas or not...
At germany you've only the choice of 95, 98 or 100 octane Gas.
There is no Gas station selling gas under 95 octane.
I've bought an 67 Chevy Caprice 4 Door Hardtop with an 327 4bbl 275hp Turbofire Smallblock & TH400. I'm still restoring the whole car by myself, but the engine was made in a machine shop... It runs very well!
Next time i've to check the Casting numbers...
But i've a bill about a machine shop in Ohio USA, there i can read that the engine became hardened valve seats. Is this possible?
With hardened valve seats i could use gas with higher das octane rate, right???
Your video about the heads and casting numbers is very helpful, THANK YOU VERY MUCH! :)
I've subscribed & i'll look at your Channel now!
Have a nice day, best greetings from germany, Bavaria!
I had 993 heads on the 350 I rebuilt for my 87 1/2 ton Chevy, great heads for moderate power, I loved them.
I have a set of 14096217 heads
64cc chambers intake 1.94 valves.
came in a 285-300HP GM crate crate 350.
are these worth porting and using on a 350?
Great info. I have a 72 Chevy 350 Camper Special for towing. Need to check what type of heads I have? I know it is a 4 bolt main, long stroke, high compression, mild Crane RV cam. Thinking of putting 062 Vortec heads on it for more power?
I realize there are alot of other castings I wanted to deal with some of the common stock heads
Does this correlate to 351w ?
I'm looking for a good 351w head. Budget heads for a street Mustang 351w. RHS with a decent cam? I'm open to iron heads.
By the way I LOVE your channel!
I enjoyed the video. Very informative. Appreciate how you broke down the casting numbers.
Neither get a set of 993 or 487's
What would you recommend using a 487 head on i have a set looking for a good head for my racecar
Great information. Wish I had known this 30 years ago! Thanks for posting. Take care, be safe!
186 canmal hump has bolt holes 1969-70 used on Z28 and Vets 202 intake 160 exh
Man I love your videos. You are in my top 5 of sources for information and knowledge. Please keep up the excellent work educating us shade tree mechanics.
hey man thanks this was very illustrative...one question..are swirl port heads as bad as they say??
they are ok for stock engines
Thanks for all your research and posting this. Coming from LS and small block Ford I am building my first gen 1 small block from all free parts that people have given me over the years. It's a little junker 355 and someone gave me a pair of 993 heads that have been ported and valve job with 2.02/1.60. The big chamber should put me at 9:1 but that's ok. 87 octane turd.
624s are great for holding a boat in place in the water
We picked up camel hump heads for my sons 350 for 400$. They were machined for bigger valves 2.02 Intake and 1.6 exhaust. Even had the springs and rocker stud girdles. Sounds like a beast.
Oh yea they work good
I know this is old... But still very relevant info.
I'm also a former Engine Builder and Machinist.
YES - totally agree with you on the 624 Heads!! JUNK! There's enough of the others to not use them.
Now I have "successfully" built a few 350s with 305 Heads.... Do I suggest that the average person do it - NO. I even used 58cc Chamber 305 Heads with Dish Pistons, giving 10.6-1 Compression....
THE DIFFERENCE - I explained to the Customer that these would NOT be high revving, high Performance Engines! What they were, with Port Matching and mild Polishing and a Comp Cams 268H, was a Truck Torque BEAST. Fantastic from IDLE to 3500, but pretty much ran out of poop by about 4400-4800, with significant Torque loss between 3800 to Redline. Guys even reported getting significantly better Fuel Economy when not getting into it!!
THAT was the late 70's to early 90's.... After that, it became obvious that you could practically "have your cake and eat it too" with a 383 Stroker! Possibly the best Chevy Small Block that Chevy never made.
I'm really enjoying your Channel. You really know your shit, and have even taught me a few new things!!
None of us know everything - it's always good to gain knowledge from someone who has had different experiences. 😉
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Yea I have done quite a few 350's with 305 heads they are basically a truck work horse engine but you know sometimes that is what you need great landscaping truck engine and I agree they do get a little better mileage mostly in city driving
The 3987041 and 3987041X in particular were used as a warranty replacement heads in matched set for the 69 Z28 Camaro. My DZ Block cracked and the CE wedge piston replacement block came with 3987041X heads. I still own the Camaro today and wish you had noted the oversized intake and exhaust ports of the 041X heads.
The X can be found on the bottom of the intake runner, if you've never seen one. If you want a Pic I have plenty.
fixing to remove cylinder head on a 94 5.7 chey trk. if i do find casting no624 which othe rnumber should i look for like your vedios
looking for a set of heads for my 77 Chevy K10 350 comp cam hooker headers wanting power and durability what set do you recommend
The vorteck is the best small block head ,only a 194 but will make more HP then any other production head to 500 lift !
Excellent, Most accurate info about SBC heads I have watched in many years. Been building street engines since the mid 70's. Now with 49 Years experience (Now 2022). My pick has been 041 since I first found them at Pick-A-Part in the late 70's in the Valley (SFV). Were produced for only 2½ years. Very hard to find Then... I would assume almost impossible to find now. 186 Castings were easier to find. Well Done.
Are there any cast iron Vortec heads in existence? Also, what is the most reliable, quality cast iron head (factory or aftermarket) over all? I don't care about it having performance/power? I just care about dependability and reliability.
487X is a pretty good head same as 993
is there anything special about the X at the end? Got a used set of 461X heads all machined with new guides and screw in rocker studs/guide plates for cheap off craigslist from a guy and wondering if they are anything special.
@Hugh O'Brien vortec head should be a much better head due to the port being taller the airflow is more direct to the valve it doesn't have to turn as much. Same reason why the LS heads flow so much better. It's not all about the size of the port but also the shape and how direct the flow path is. Im gonna be running a twin turbo blow through carb on e85 on small block 350 should make some wicked big power and fly like a rocket in my datsun 260z
That is some great information. I was building cars back in the 70's and have a couple of questions- What exactly is a "bathtub designed head"? I understand they could create up to 12-1 compression back in the day. Why don't people that want power, go 12-1 on all their engines instead of 10-1? Another question I have is back in the day a technology call extrude-hone, had just come out and the concept was great, on paper. What do you think of this process in real world conditions. Thank you and Much Respect. RH DSD
DIOSpeedDemon all the gas you get these days is crap,you will find a lot of valve noise with that much compression!!!!
462 was also a “ camel hump” head. 2.02 intake 1.50 exhaust and screw in studs.
I have many sets of these heads 462,461, 291, ect , I have a set of 462 on my 72 vette that someone else installed , however the 462 didn't come with screw in studs, at least mine didn't, now the 492 did come with screw in studs and push rod guide plates but this was a performance head part number 3987376, from Chevrolet but discontinued in 1991 , in the early 70s the 492 head was available with angled spark plugs part number 336746 this was only available from Chevrolet for a short time and was never installed on a production vehicle. I'm definitely not saying I know everything about these head but I know plenty, Alot of what I know iv researched this and talked to many old timers that used these heads!
Actually the was 2.02 intakes an 1. 94 exhaust valve an didn’t have screw in studs
462 s are what I wanted ,I built up a set of 461 s , they do pretty well.
@@michaelwillcutt2619 no chevy head EVER had 1.94 exhaust valves . The biggest was 1.84.
Need help here please....I have a 1979 Big 10 Square Body C10, (Actually it's a Bonanza Big 10) which came with every factory upgrade option Including the 350/5.7 ...also what I am having a problem understanding is, The Heads on it are 041 ("G Style" not like 041 on your bench in video) and these "G style" were used 1969-70 production Heads....BUT !!! How did they end up on my 1979 Truck with 40k original miles that has never been apart?? Thanks.
Thank you Sir! Learned a lot from your lesson on heads. I have a 72 Corvette (K model). I was thinking of pulling the engine and doing the 383 stroker thing to it. Are the stock heads worth keeping?
I'm thinking around 400hp.
well I ended up with the junk 624's cause they had been tricked out. Guess I'll have to trick someone into taking them off my hands. I ended up with a small journal 337 (.60 over) that had one 186 head and one 185, so now I'm looking for a single 186 or 041 I guess is similar/same? Thanks for this comprehensive info, I will subscribe.
Good Luck
The 882 arent so bad IMO, back in the mid to late 90s, i had a built .030 over 350cid 4bolt main, 4valve relief flat top piston engine, along with a combination of other performance enhancers(all motor, no spray) in a street/strip driven '75 chevelle and it helped produce consistant 14.40s @ 96mph in the 1/4mile. Now granted, for what im about to tell you would be considered a waste in yours as well as everyone elses oppinion and i am inclined to agree, but i had these same heads thoroughly checked, then ported and polished, rocker stud bosses milled for screw in studs, SS 1.94int/1.60exh valves along with new springs/locks/retainers and valve seals to use with a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft. Now dont be too harsh on me, it was my very 1st high performance engine build, so i experimented some with what i had atm and it appeared to have worked out for me in the end. But i did upgrade to much better aftermarket heads later on for a better performance to price ratio... rumor has it, even when using all the wrong parts, chevy engines still make great power. lol
Bige4u you had basically the exact engine I do. 882 heads and 4 valve relief flat top pistons. It has less than 5000 miles on it and I paid $50 for the fully dressed engine lol.
That's right folks, what he said about old factory heads vs new aftermarket is true, you'll never get them to run as good, so if you find an old set of " camel back" do not destroy them with a hopeless cause, see to it that they make it to a proper restoration on a car that needs them, please don't destroy something that historically rare in this day and age.
I agree if the car has no historical value and does not need to be numbers matching just go aftermarket or at least something stock that has no historical value
appreciate ya taking the time to make this. good poop!
Ok, I'm thinking of buying a 79 Vette. Would they probably be cracked? Where in the head do the cracks happen?
what about Vortec heads...i was told Vortec heads flow really well also..
But they are smog heads. Unless you wanna run forced induction you are gonna have to buy custom piston.
Scooter, Vortec heads have 64 cc combustion chambers.
Great info....looking at rebuilding my 77 monte 350
THANKS ALOT
Great video! What about the Chevy 350 heads that are engraved "Made in Mexico" Are those good heads?
Yes the made in Mexico heads are actually really decant heads the blocks are good as well
Myvintageiron7512 thank you for the info, I am trying to rebuild by myself a 350 goodwrench using the made in Mexico heads, it's going to be a "road kill style " I'm going to reuse 7 pistons, same used rings and rods from that 350, , an internal balance crank, camshaft , lifters and one piston that came off my 77 c10 old block, but, New oil pump, gaskets and rod and main both blocks they all are std size. It was a project 84 c10 that me and my dad were trying to build together, but unfortunately last December he passed away and even though it still hurts, I want to do it to honor him and so he can be proud of me. I would like to ask you if you think it's possible to use those parts and make a great 350? Thank you again Sir for all the great videos and awesome content you make, you are awesome!! Thank you and God Bless.
Yes 487 is a good casting
Yes sir... I do have a question but a quick catch up is inorder. I'm buying an 89' chevy pickup. 4x4 but the motor that is in it runs bad. The guy that owns it didn't go into detail. He has another motor he started building and it has been bored 30 over with new pistons installed, stock crank. He has an after market set of 906 vortex heads he wants to sell with the motor. Firstly, are those heads going to be adequate for the block and the cam is an edelbrok that produces 245ft lbs of torque. Secondly, what cam should I run to pull my 89' avalon camper but when I'm not pulling it, still have alot of hp and torque so when I hit the pedal it's there?
I have some 010 heads on a 30 over 327. I was told they are the same as a camel hump.
Thanks for posting this video
your welcome
I just bought a set of 369 heads with 2.02 intake and 1.5 exhaust with screw in rocker studs and push rod guide plates. I'm wondering if they are a good performance head? I had to give up my 487 heads because the machinist said they were too far gone. Did the machinist give me a equally performing set of heads by selling me the 369's?
Hey man thanks for the great info.
Outstanding information! Thank you so much, good job!
Have always had good luck withe 041.
The #882 casting he mentions is a thin wall lightweight casting. A 74-76cc smog head that rules say have to be run in claimer class circle track. Junk.
To make power you might believe that you need to bump up compression.
On a 350 with the #882 76cc head you will need a big dome on the piston and flame travel and resulting burn will be crap. The #882 works okay on a 350/383 stroker or the factory small-block 400 with a flattop a CR of 10-1/2 to 1. Detonation is no ones buddy.
The burn would be acceptable-Just take advantage of the 4.125" bore of the 400 and resulting increased CR of swept volume. Learn=math. Make sure the #882 heads you use on your 400 block have steam holes. The 400 blocks were Siamese inner-pair bores and No. 7 cylinder runs hot on any small Chevy. Mixture distribution is key to survival.
If you find Vigin pre 1971 small block castings you have to run 1.94 size intake valves to have hardened exhaust seat installed. You cannot run old 60's era fuelie[camel hump] with 2.02 intake valve and a hardened seat. No room. Don't waste $$$ on welded iron heads.
Buy Brodix or AFR alloy. Save long run dollar$$$ or be last and slow.
The supply of the good heads described by[Not the video guy] David Vizard's HP Chevy head book is from two decades ago. Most good thick casting 1.94's are gone.
Racers scoured the yards twenty years ago. I did this professionally then. More good heads have been ruined by idiots with a 25 dollar grinder and stones and zero experience Buy a book or make another pair of heads that flow worse than stock, puddle fuel and fall on their face at all rpm ranges.
Almost all the good heads he described are gone. People need to be aware that swap meet heads and "finds" may have been angle milled and will not seal unless you measure and machine your intake.
They will have cracks inside intake port from porting and heat stress from detonation and racing. Beware!
Learning curve is steep on "ported heads" Have the seller or porter show actual flow bench numbers for the special heads and crack free afidavit, or expect to get hosed.
A Shop vac "or two in tandem" is not a flow bench-
If it cannot pull 40hg of vacuum and accurately measure 350cfm in an intake port it 'aint real.
Can't find your FB page, do you have a link? Great video and loved the big/small block video also. Thanks!
This video is pure gold! So much knowledge, And we get to watch it for free! Thank you for this!
hey man. i have a 89 camaro iroc 5.7 l98 n was wondering if those heads come out to be good?
I realize heads influnce total hp . How do heads influnce low and mid RPM torque ? How do they influnce MPG ?
Thanks , :-)
Wyr
God bless
They increase both
ENJOYED THE VIDEO BUT WHAT ABOUT THE 292 2.02 ANGLE PLUG,WITH GUIDE PLATES AND SCREW IN STUDS. 292 IS OVER THE COUNTER ONLY?
I have a pair of those also, I asked him here in the comments about them, and he said they perform about the same as the 186 heads.....I will keep them forever just cuz those angled plugs just look so badass....lol.
Outlaw Mercenary Those 292 flow fantastic and fire great! That angle plug woke them up. Commonly referred as the 292 Turbo head.
Hello, you think I need to create a 350 chevy engine with more than 400hp? and racionable price! thank you very much for everything and their videos!
991's work fine put in a good rv cam to go with them
Myvintageiron7512
I didn't see are hear about what we use to call the 202 Heads (?)
Camel Back's
Thanks a lot for this info! Very helpful! What are your thoughts on stock vortec heads off a 96-00 5.7 liter truck engine? I have a tbi 5.7 converted to carburetor in my 87 Monte. I wanted to change to vortec heads and a L82 corvette cam, and keep it carbureted. I'm running a spreadbore holley 650 dp on a quadrajet intake. It does great up to 3500rpms then after 35k rpms it just kinda runs out of power. HELP!!
Vortec heads are a great idea also you need more cam and carb for that engine 650 cfm is a little small for a 350 with vortec heads
Myvintageiron7512 Thanks a bunch! I'm glad you replied because I tend to be scared I'm going to use too big of a carburetor. I should probably get me a better intake too. I really appreciate it man!
Which heads do you think would work best for a derby motor? Low torque and high heat.....
Low end torque I meant
GREAT VIDEO! Thank you for your valuable info..
You really helped me. I hit sub.
I know this is an old video, but Im looking to get some decent power out of my TBI 350, and I've heard the stock heads are the worst out there. I'm not looking for a ton of power, maybe 350-400 to the crank, and im not sure what to go with. I'd like to drop a cam in it too. (i plan on changing the intake manifold and exhaust prior to any head/cam changes)
might be a little late but the vortec 350 heads are THE best flowing factory heads available on the snallblock, can be found at any junkyard too. the 90' tahoes/suburbans/and ck trucks used them, only issue is you need to use vortec style intake manifold due to the different port sizes, but I'd recommend the red Victor intake, very nice flow, hope I helped some.
might be a little late but the vortec 350 heads are THE best flowing factory heads available on the snallblock, can be found at any junkyard too. the 90' tahoes/suburbans/and ck trucks used them, only issue is you need to use vortec style intake manifold due to the different port sizes, but I'd recommend the red Victor intake, very nice flow, hope I helped some.