A useful video to distinguish QO and Homeliness breakers. The white insulation on a hot lead and torque specs were covered by other posts. For safety's sake I'd mention that the buses behind the breaker David was pointing out closely are hot ands when installing a breaker that the switch should be verified to be in the OFF position prior to seating it onto the bus.
@@supporterofeverythingyouli6255 🤔 Why not explain your point concerning my seven year old post rather than make an intellectually lazy, vulgar comment? Why hide your identity behind that silly handle? 🤔 Does that anonymity provide you the courage to be such a vulgar, disreputable troll? BTW, I was trained as a USN electrician (Nuclear), and spent 34 years in the Comercial Nuclear field, as an Operator. I was trained and tested every five weeks for those 34 years, and have personally “been in” breaker panels for 120, 440, 4160 VAC, as well as 140 and 244 VDC panels. Furthermore I was both a qualified switchman and trainer for 34.5, 230, and 500 KV transmission switch yards, including Tag-out, pulling/installing live fuses, and operating disconnects. At these voltages one’s first mistake is highly likely his last from the resulting arc-flash. ☠️ I have experience installing and removing Cutler Hammer and Square D breakers in panels, and yes, the different lines have different incompatible stab arrangements. The issue I had is that David, a fine technician, was working a live panel without utilizing PPE. Generally no PPE is reserved for “verified dead, tagged panels” after verifying Zero voltage prior to work with a meter. While the breaker was in the OFF position, since this is a training video, David should have verbalized checking that the breaker was off prior to installing it to prevent a possible arc-flash at the stabs when seating the breaker. At higher voltages seating or breaking the contacts on a closed breaker usually results in severe burns or a fatality ☠️, even if wearing proper PPE (As an Operator with ancillary duties, I have responded in the capacity of being an EMT or Fire Brigade Incident Commander to such events … four fatalities and several arc-flash events over my career). These 220 VAC panels follow the standard convention that ON is toward the center where the buses are located and OFF is towards the outside. The markings on the breakers ON/OFF or I/O are often difficult to see in low light. The previous narrative is just a matter of “No brag, just fact” to establish my credentials and experience, so now could you share your credentials, experience and finally make a cogent point? I have little experience in electrical new construction, except to note and repair shoddy residential construction performed in blatant violation of the NEC Electrical Code. Perhaps this is your area of expertise. 😎
😳 thanks! I found the information I was looking for about 10 seconds into the video. The installation was going smooth with no issues until I tried to install the breaker and realized that though the box is A Square D, the feet on the one I had were internal and the one on the box was external. Thanks to your video, everything made sense. So I called the sales associate who told me that they do sell both Home Line and QO, which I need
Tnks Mr Jones. I work for Mike Whaley in the 90 s when Bonita...Naples...were tomatoes fields. Now they are cities like all else......appreciate ur way of teaching...God Bless .
Dave, thanks very much for posting this video! I just installed a 40 amp breaker in my square D QO box for a 25,000 BTU 240 volt electric space heater I just bought and installed in my garage with an 8-2 romex cable. This was my first home electrical job, and I couldn't have done it safely without this video. And yes, I also used both the black wire and the white wire to the breaker since it was after all an 8-2 Romex cable and not an 8-3 cable. My new electric heater didn't call for nor require a white neutral wire to be used, so I didn't see the need to spend more money on an 8-3 romex cable when I would've just been capping off the white wire on the heater side anyway. Thanks again.
Congrats on the successful install, just be sure to re-identify that white wire as an ungrounded conductor with a black marker or a length of electrical tape for future reference.
In 240 volt breaker where a black wire and a white wire are used, the white wire should be colored black at the connection point to indicate it is a hot wire and not a neutral.
Wow! I just learned that I have a QO panel. I'm in the process of having my electric panel replaced.. and the QO breaker on the video is just like the breaker configuration for the breakers on my current Square D panel which is about 50 years old. I am having it replaced because the Buss Bar has a short. And I wasn't sure if I should buy a new homeline or QO electric panel... but the decal on the old panel does say QO.
Nice, very helpful. Only change I would make would be to clearly state to trip the main before opening the box. I know most electricians work on a hot box but homeowners should NEVER do that.
LOL yeah, but he obviously wasn't working on a live one, wasn't using any PPE. ALSO worth mentioning that shutting off main only cuts current downstream - anything upwards is still live and hot. To change a full panel you would need a permit to remove the counter outside the home, which cuts current to the main.
What’s the difference between the single throw and double throw of the two breakers? Is that single throw good for both hot legs to trip or only 1 hot leg to trip? Is only 1 side of the circuit protected in the single throw double pole square d’s?
I know this is an old video, but you telling people to "tighten down you wires as tight as you possibly can" it totally incorrect and can make a hazardous situation just as not tightening them enough will do. there is a torque spec on the breaker that the wire should be tighten to. this is code. not "as tight as possible".
05wrangler oh come on. He didn't say put a two foot breaker bar on the dam thing. If someone doesn't understand what he is saying than they don't belong doing this job to begin with
I came here hoping to get an answer to my question. I have a Square D 150 amp QOC30U Series G breaker box. I am adding a large room, a second air conditioner and a pool with electric heater to my home. I know I'll need a Sub-panel installed but at the same time is it possible and/or safe to swap out the 150A Main breaker with a 200A main breaker? Thank you for your very informative videos!.
+blueoval250 Interesting, I learned, prior to your response, that if the service from the pole and the gauge wire from the meter to the main are rated for it, then Yes this main can be swapped without issue.
+Robert Johnson well if the buss bars are rated at 200 then technically you could replace it. A lot of times it's easier to just swap the panel. What type of panel do you have? If it's aluminum wire you need 4/0, copper 3/0
No, it is not OK to simply change the main breaker to a larger size. Your panel is likely rated at a 150 amps, which means the bus on the panel (the flat bars the breakers plug onto) is smaller than the bus on a 200 amp panel. You need to change the entire panel, not just the main breaker.
I couldn't figure out how to attach my breaker because I bought an HOM instead of a QO. Thanks for making this video! I couldn't find this anywhere including the manufacturer DS.
The video is helpful, but other than seeing a difference in HL to QO, I still do not know why they make 2 different breakers to do the same job. What is the difference in quality?
My 20amp dual pole squared d QO only has two snap connectors on one side but only one snap connector on the other side ? I see your 40 amp had two and two . Is this normal?
yours is a Square D QO, what up probably had my hand is a Square D home line, Which is a builders grade breaker they're two different styles, thanks for watching I appreciate that,
It's against the code. You must not connect a white wire to a breaker. White is for neutral. In order to be legal, you must mark your white wire as a live wire by wrapping it in black electrical tape or in heat shrink tubing at BOTH ends.
Actually you can't use electrical tape anymore per the NEC. It has to be a permanent means of identification. A Sharpie works good. Electrical tape is not permanent.
My rental has a Siemens double throw breaker as the main breaker on a square D homeline 200 amp panel. The siemens breaker works but it is slightly lifted on the inside edge. it seems very dangerous. Is this normal? Also, the siemens breaker doesn't have the amp rating on it. I assume it's 200 but Im not sure....
A bit sketchy. First, I don't think I caught any mention of turning all power to the panel OFF. And after turning it OFF, testing to make sure it is OFF. And lastly, putting tape over the main breaker for this sub panel to make sure nobody 'flips' it while I'm working, or for the truly paranoid, putting a lock on the cover!
Looked at the comments but no one has addressed the 30 in x 3 feet area around the breaker box per code. I had a job a few weeks ago where there was a giant chest freezer in front of the breaker box. The main disconnect breaker was bad. I told the customer its got to be moved. If not I could not suit up for a energized switch out. If not she would have to call the Entergy for a meter pull or call someone else but I still expected my service call fee. Now when I get a call I look at the box and if it is inaccessible I stop and inform the client.
none of my breakers have a square "D" on them, they are so old... How old are they? back when Dinosaurs roamed.. and my panel isn't labeled correctly.. so much for cheap electricians from south of the border, working in housing projects back in the 80's.. my GFI isnt wired right either, trip it in one place and in the other it still has power. actually there is a torque spec. on lugs, its 45 in.lbs.
uh NOPE..some 10 years back, I had to buy a rebuilt breaker because they dont make the amp range anymore (I was told by an electrical supplier) and that one didnt have it either.. the new one I bought yesterday has it casted onto the plastic..
To all you "Master Scholars" pointing out "Not Code"- This is F*%$#*% RUclips! Not Harvard Code College Ba hahaha wow--All I can say is because of this mans video, my family is enjoying our electric Tankless Water Heater ;)
Good video. I had a guy come in to where I work, wanting a tandem Homeline breaker, with the designation HOM20 instead of HOMT20. I tried telling him that you can only install tandem breakers in certain locations in the boxes, and that tandem Homeline breakers only come HOMT( the "T" means tandem).
chill out dude. First: square d DOES manufacture copper buss loadcenters. just ask your supplier if its so important to you. 2. Aluminium conductors manufactured nowadays do not require no-ox. They are made from the 8000 series alloy which doesnt oxidize nor expand and contract like the wires from the 60's and 70's
If a person doesn’t know it’s a hot wire coming out of panel then they shouldn’t be in the panel to begin with. Who uses heat shrink on a wire? Wrap it with tape or use a sharpie, but against code comment cause it’s white.? you must be really bored or trying to impress people here or yourself. You sure know a lot lol.Thanks for the QO and Homeline 101. Answered my question. And to the other person commented on tightness and torque, yes he did it right tight as possible, code on tightness lol Loose wires generate heat, can spark, trip breakers etc. us HVAC/R guys see it all the time cause we actually are working on this equipment not pulling wire.
Too tight damages wires and causes arcing. I’m one of the few who torques every single connection and it’s great to be able to prove to anyone that I did was manufacturer specs say. The thing I hate about square D is their 10-14 AWG conductors have to be torqued to 36 in lbs as opposed to Siemens at 25 and Eaton (BR & CH) at 20! Failure to do this is actually a violation.
With a 220v circuit, both the black and white are hot. You simply mark the white wire as hot by marker or electrical tape. You can use a black and red wire if you have one, but using black and a marked-white is standard.
Square D Homeline suck....To hard to find tandems...They act like there is a problem with them even thought they have been used In the field for decades....Why the hell would they make a Siemens type panel that is just different enough that no other manufacturers breakers work.....I bad mouth these pieces of shit every chance I get....You better off buying a different Manufacturer.
I know this is an old video, but you telling people to "tighten down you wires as tight as you possibly can" it totally incorrect and can make a hazardous situation just as not tightening them enough will do. there is a torque spec on the breaker that the wire should be tighten to. this is code. not "as tight as possible".
This was an ingenious way to chastize the guy that brought back the wrong part. Thanks!
Thank you for the great video and info. I needed that, as I was lost as to what breaker to get, but now I know.
A useful video to distinguish QO and Homeliness breakers.
The white insulation on a hot lead and torque specs were covered by other posts.
For safety's sake I'd mention that the buses behind the breaker David was pointing out closely are hot ands when installing a breaker that the switch should be verified to be in the OFF position prior to seating it onto the bus.
Stay the f*** out of a breaker box if you don't know what you're looking at and can't make sense thing's right or wrong!
@@supporterofeverythingyouli6255
🤔 Why not explain your point concerning my seven year old post rather than make an intellectually lazy, vulgar comment? Why hide your identity behind that silly handle? 🤔 Does that anonymity provide you the courage to be such a vulgar, disreputable troll?
BTW, I was trained as a USN electrician (Nuclear), and spent 34 years in the Comercial Nuclear field, as an Operator. I was trained and tested every five weeks for those 34 years, and have personally “been in” breaker panels for 120, 440, 4160 VAC, as well as 140 and 244 VDC panels. Furthermore I was both a qualified switchman and trainer for 34.5, 230, and 500 KV transmission switch yards, including Tag-out, pulling/installing live fuses, and operating disconnects. At these voltages one’s first mistake is highly likely his last from the resulting arc-flash. ☠️
I have experience installing and removing Cutler Hammer and Square D breakers in panels, and yes, the different lines have different incompatible stab arrangements. The issue I had is that David, a fine technician, was working a live panel without utilizing PPE. Generally no PPE is reserved for “verified dead, tagged panels” after verifying Zero voltage prior to work with a meter.
While the breaker was in the OFF position, since this is a training video, David should have verbalized checking that the breaker was off prior to installing it to prevent a possible arc-flash at the stabs when seating the breaker. At higher voltages seating or breaking the contacts on a closed breaker usually results in severe burns or a fatality ☠️, even if wearing proper PPE (As an Operator with ancillary duties, I have responded in the capacity of being an EMT or Fire Brigade Incident Commander to such events … four fatalities and several arc-flash events over my career).
These 220 VAC panels follow the standard convention that ON is toward the center where the buses are located and OFF is towards the outside. The markings on the breakers ON/OFF or I/O are often difficult to see in low light.
The previous narrative is just a matter of “No brag, just fact” to establish my credentials and experience, so now could you share your credentials, experience and finally make a cogent point?
I have little experience in electrical new construction, except to note and repair shoddy residential construction performed in blatant violation of the NEC Electrical Code. Perhaps this is your area of expertise. 😎
😳 thanks! I found the information I was looking for about 10 seconds into the video.
The installation was going smooth with no issues until I tried to install the breaker and realized that though the box is A Square D, the feet on the one I had were internal and the one on the box was external.
Thanks to your video, everything made sense.
So I called the sales associate who told me that they do sell both Home Line and QO, which I need
My friend went to Home Depot for me and brought the wrong type breaker and the wrong conduit.
Tnks Mr Jones. I work for Mike Whaley in the 90 s when Bonita...Naples...were tomatoes fields. Now they are cities like all else......appreciate ur way of teaching...God Bless
.
Dave, thanks very much for posting this video! I just installed a 40 amp breaker in my square D QO box for a 25,000 BTU 240 volt electric space heater I just bought and installed in my garage with an 8-2 romex cable. This was my first home electrical job, and I couldn't have done it safely without this video. And yes, I also used both the black wire and the white wire to the breaker since it was after all an 8-2 Romex cable and not an 8-3 cable. My new electric heater didn't call for nor require a white neutral wire to be used, so I didn't see the need to spend more money on an 8-3 romex cable when I would've just been capping off the white wire on the heater side anyway. Thanks again.
Congrats on the successful install, just be sure to re-identify that white wire as an ungrounded conductor with a black marker or a length of electrical tape for future reference.
actually thre is a Torque spec, not as tight as you can make it specs!
You are right about black wire, this was a 220 volt circuit.
Thanks for watching
In 240 volt breaker where a black wire and a white wire are used, the white wire should be colored black at the connection point to indicate it is a hot
wire and not a neutral.
Absolutely! Wrap black electrical tape around the wire at ALL connecting points.
Wow! I just learned that I have a QO panel. I'm in the process of having my electric panel replaced.. and the QO breaker on the video is just like the breaker configuration for the breakers on my current Square D panel which is about 50 years old. I am having it replaced because the Buss Bar has a short. And I wasn't sure if I should buy a new homeline or QO electric panel... but the decal on the old panel does say QO.
Nice, very helpful. Only change I would make would be to clearly state to trip the main before opening the box. I know most electricians work on a hot box but homeowners should NEVER do that.
LOL yeah, but he obviously wasn't working on a live one, wasn't using any PPE. ALSO worth mentioning that shutting off main only cuts current downstream - anything upwards is still live and hot. To change a full panel you would need a permit to remove the counter outside the home, which cuts current to the main.
So will both style breakers fit that panel?
What’s the difference between the single throw and double throw of the two breakers? Is that single throw good for both hot legs to trip or only 1 hot leg to trip? Is only 1 side of the circuit protected in the single throw double pole square d’s?
I know this is an old video, but you telling people to "tighten down you wires as tight as you possibly can" it totally incorrect and can make a hazardous situation just as not tightening them enough will do. there is a torque spec on the breaker that the wire should be tighten to. this is code. not "as tight as possible".
05wrangler oh come on. He didn't say put a two foot breaker bar on the dam thing. If someone doesn't understand what he is saying than they don't belong doing this job to begin with
I came here hoping to get an answer to my question. I have a Square D 150 amp QOC30U Series G breaker box. I am adding a large room, a second air conditioner and a pool with electric heater to my home. I know I'll need a Sub-panel installed but at the same time is it possible and/or safe to swap out the 150A Main breaker with a 200A main breaker? Thank you for your very informative videos!.
Nope
+blueoval250 Interesting, I learned, prior to your response, that if the service from the pole and the gauge wire from the meter to the main are rated for it, then Yes this main can be swapped without issue.
+Robert Johnson well if the buss bars are rated at 200 then technically you could replace it. A lot of times it's easier to just swap the panel. What type of panel do you have? If it's aluminum wire you need 4/0, copper 3/0
+blueoval250 Square D QOC30U Series G1
No, it is not OK to simply change the main breaker to a larger size. Your panel is likely rated at a 150 amps, which means the bus on the panel (the flat bars the breakers plug onto) is smaller than the bus on a 200 amp panel. You need to change the entire panel, not just the main breaker.
Wait a minute... Was that a White (Neutral) wire that got screwed on to that breaker?
Also, I presume the main breaker is turned OFF, right?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I couldn't figure out how to attach my breaker because I bought an HOM instead of a QO. Thanks for making this video! I couldn't find this anywhere including the manufacturer DS.
Are those steel toes good sir?
Thanks for the vid
So for a homeline fuse box I can use a QO single pole breaker in it
I have the one with the four metal clips sticking out from the bottom. I don’t know if I sent this already.
thanks for explaining the difference this really helped me out of a bind i am in with my job.
The video is helpful, but other than seeing a difference in HL to QO, I still do not know why they make 2 different breakers to do the same job. What is the difference in quality?
Do you really want to onow?
one a two poles doble break is the same do im right
My 20amp dual pole squared d QO only has two snap connectors on one side but only one snap connector on the other side ? I see your 40 amp had two and two . Is this normal?
yours is a Square D QO, what up probably had my hand is a Square D home line,
Which is a builders grade breaker they're two different styles, thanks for watching I appreciate that,
It's against the code. You must not connect a white wire to a breaker. White is for neutral. In order to be legal, you must mark your white wire as a live wire by wrapping it in black electrical tape or in heat shrink tubing at BOTH ends.
Actually you can't use electrical tape anymore per the NEC. It has to be a permanent means of identification. A Sharpie works good. Electrical tape is not permanent.
agreed................ white wires with voltage in them should be marked with permanent marker
Your Correct
The vid is how to install the breaker....not color coding
I miss your videos!!
I really need to start again
Thx you for your Kindness
I sent my guy out to the truck for a screwdriver and he comes back with a phillips head. 😏
Are those wires live? How do you shut THEM off before putting them in and tightening them?
No they are NOT live - how could they be? they are being connected to the SOURCE of electricity. Power doesn't come from the other end of the wire...
Useful video to explain difference Thank you. Same comment as others on white wire use not allowed in dble pole connection
Yes it is...as long as it is identified
@@anthonysmith4600 with black tape or paint.
My rental has a Siemens double throw breaker as the main breaker on a square D homeline 200 amp panel. The siemens breaker works but it is slightly lifted on the inside edge. it seems very dangerous. Is this normal? Also, the siemens breaker doesn't have the amp rating on it. I assume it's 200 but Im not sure....
R U N!
Don't think you have a double throw breaker. That would be a transfer switch or the like
Very well explained 😎😎😁
what about QP sqare D ?
I have the same thing happen to me. Great point about no tandem breakers for home line thanks for your comment.
homeline DOES have tanem breakers. Do you live under a rock? There's no way you're a licensed electrician.
show me how to remove a QO breaker.
A bit sketchy. First, I don't think I caught any mention of turning all power to the panel OFF. And after turning it OFF, testing to make sure it is OFF. And lastly, putting tape over the main breaker for this sub panel to make sure nobody 'flips' it while I'm working, or for the truly paranoid, putting a lock on the cover!
Tape is not a lockout means
So basically it’s for what fits in the breaker box
Why do all my 30 amp Square D QO breakers have only three "feet"? ... ?
Because thats the way it was manufactured
you did the wrong code because you pull a white wire to hot
Thanks. Giving you a thumb up. However, the whole video is blur, out of focus... annoying.
Those standard breakers fit better but the others wiggle a lot
Looked at the comments but no one has addressed the 30 in x 3 feet area around the breaker box per code. I had a job a few weeks ago where there was a giant chest freezer in front of the breaker box. The main disconnect breaker was bad. I told the customer its got to be moved. If not I could not suit up for a energized switch out. If not she would have to call the Entergy for a meter pull or call someone else but I still expected my service call fee. Now when I get a call I look at the box and if it is inaccessible I stop and inform the client.
well glad he cleared that up
none of my breakers have a square "D" on them, they are so old... How old are they? back when Dinosaurs roamed.. and my panel isn't labeled correctly.. so much for cheap electricians from south of the border, working in housing projects back in the 80's.. my GFI isnt wired right either, trip it in one place and in the other it still has power.
actually there is a torque spec. on lugs, its 45 in.lbs.
maybe replace the panel box
uh NOPE..some 10 years back, I had to buy a rebuilt breaker because they dont make the amp range anymore (I was told by an electrical supplier) and that one didnt have it either.. the new one I bought yesterday has it casted onto the plastic..
Thanks helped!!!
To all you "Master Scholars" pointing out "Not Code"- This is F*%$#*% RUclips! Not Harvard Code College Ba hahaha wow--All I can say is because of this mans video, my family is enjoying our electric Tankless Water Heater ;)
thx
Good video. I had a guy come in to where I work, wanting a tandem Homeline breaker, with the designation HOM20 instead of HOMT20. I tried telling him that you can only install tandem breakers in certain locations in the boxes, and that tandem Homeline breakers only come HOMT( the "T" means tandem).
where in the box ? At the bottom of the panel?
No at the top
There’s torque specs for those screws.
That no one ever uses
The Homeline and QO look different. Moving on...
The wasted trip seems primarily to be your fault. Why blame it on the other guy?
THANK YOU! You're old now.🤣🤣
Thanks for reminding me😂
Did ya just say make sure I’m a licensed electrician? Really? Still, thanks for video. Looks like mine is the QO. No other markings
QO, & HL, both "SUCK" trouble is Aluminium bus bars, "THINK" about it? No-LOX, Inhibitor on service cable lugs, "BUT" not on bus bars? REALLY???
chill out dude. First: square d DOES manufacture copper buss loadcenters. just ask your supplier if its so important to you. 2. Aluminium conductors manufactured nowadays do not require no-ox. They are made from the 8000 series alloy which doesnt oxidize nor expand and contract like the wires from the 60's and 70's
If a person doesn’t know it’s a hot wire coming out of panel then they shouldn’t be in the panel to begin with. Who uses heat shrink on a wire? Wrap it with tape or use a sharpie, but against code comment cause it’s white.? you must be really bored or trying to impress people here or yourself. You sure know a lot lol.Thanks for the QO and Homeline 101. Answered my question. And to the other person commented on tightness and torque, yes he did it right tight as possible, code on tightness lol Loose wires generate heat, can spark, trip breakers etc. us HVAC/R guys see it all the time cause we actually are working on this equipment not pulling wire.
Too tight damages wires and causes arcing. I’m one of the few who torques every single connection and it’s great to be able to prove to anyone that I did was manufacturer specs say. The thing I hate about square D is their 10-14 AWG conductors have to be torqued to 36 in lbs as opposed to Siemens at 25 and Eaton (BR & CH) at 20! Failure to do this is actually a violation.
This video is super blurry
Request a refund
g
'Cadillac version', so you mean the junk version.
beware - this guy is a nutter and is probably not an electrician so...
240p? lol
Really? A white wire to a breaker. Talk about a suicide line.
Cory MacSween The White is required as a hot (Black wire) for 220 double pole breakers. Nothing to do with suicide
With a 220v circuit, both the black and white are hot. You simply mark the white wire as hot by marker or electrical tape. You can use a black and red wire if you have one, but using black and a marked-white is standard.
Square D Homeline suck....To hard to find tandems...They act like there is a problem with them even thought they have been used In the field for decades....Why the hell would they make a Siemens type panel that is just different enough that no other manufacturers breakers work.....I bad mouth these pieces of shit every chance I get....You better off buying a different Manufacturer.
Square D is highly overrated. QO's are a pain in the ass and Homeline is just an over priced interchangeable .
I know this is an old video, but you telling people to "tighten down you wires as tight as you possibly can" it totally incorrect and can make a hazardous situation just as not tightening them enough will do. there is a torque spec on the breaker that the wire should be tighten to. this is code. not "as tight as possible".