Every Olympus camera should come with a little card that has a link to this channel! I always learn something from your videos, Robin. Thanks for putting in this effort.
This channel is great. However Olympus probably doesn't want to draw too much attention to the fact that their cameras are an Asian product. They chose a Greek brand name to obscure this.
Tip #7 Keep the sensor cool. When shooting at high ISO a lot of the noise comes from a bad signal to noise issue when the sensor is hot. Keep the camera turned off when not in use, avoid shooting video followed by high ISO shots. Avoid multiple long exposure shots at high ISO. The higher the ISO the higher the voltage = more heat genirated. I did a test where I put a OMD in my freezer for 15 min turned it on and shot a 30sec exposure at 25,600 ISO with the lens cap on, almost no noise compared to the same camera after 5-15 min of long exposures or video later. This is why often your first long exposure looks betterer and cleaner than the rest. :)
@@robinwong It is part of the marketing for the EM-1 line of cameras - freeze proof! Didn't you see the images with the cameras frozen into a solid block of ice?
@@robinwong or when Tony Northrup did that freeze test. It made me sick to my stomach. So if you accidently loose your EM1X in a snow blizzard, you can come back when the storm has passed. 🤣
I know the most recent TG-6 manual says that heat can cause noise as well. I think it would be fascinating to test the different modes to see what caused the most noise (4k vs 1080 video...burst mode vs single shot....etc.).
The funny thing, to me as an old man... (41) I think high ISO is 800-1600... Which m4/3 camera are fine at. Where as younger users think of high ISO as 12500... So I don't see a high ISO issue! :)
Hahaha ha... For me... As a photographer in a comunist country, where it's possible to find only 100iso... and on the black market, under the table.. 200iso.... Now, digital era with 52000iso....man I'm speechless and mesmerized in the same time
He it's me a guy from 3 years in the future, 10 years younger than you. I'm exactly in the middle! I consider high ISO to be 3200. I remember being able to get 3200 film but it looks like dog shit, even in black and white, so that wasn't an option but I remember getting a Canon DSLR that took usable images at that ISO so that's my bar.
I recently bought an OMD em10 Mark iii and in search of suggestions I discovered your youtube channel. your advice is pure gold for me. thank you so much for your precious work
Thank you Robin for another brilliant set of tips. It is so refreshing to hear you say "Go into scene mode...". Didn't realize the stitching capability on night hand held. That was a gem.
I've been very impressed with my OMDEM1 MK3 in low light wildlife photography. The crop of AI noise suppression tools also make a HUGE difference. My preference is the LightRoom denoise as I feel it does a great job of suppressing noise really well without trying to go to the lengths of some of the other AI solutions - leaving a much cleaner photo but without the melted plastic look. I'm sure a full frame would be way better but then standing in water as the sun sets with a heavy system - waiting for the right moment - I feel I would be shaking so much at that point I wouldn't get a good shot anyway. Its all about trade-offs and I'm happy with mine.
I would appreciate an additional video on how to make use of extreme high isos, like 12800 or 25600. Tips and tricks regarding the picture mode, saturation, contrast, sharpening, noise filtering, grain simulation, color filters.... I am also surprised that bracketing was not mentioned in this video, since it can be very useful when shooting movement.
andrei ka don’t do video, otherwise I’ve been going back and forth since Panasonic came out with there one and only 4/3 camera the L1. And I would disagree with everything you said personally and find them pretty equal in that respect. My switch was for the view finder on the G9 being superior for my specific eyes. 7 years from now it could be Olympus again.
Yes!!! Another drop of Robin Wisdom! I do enjoy how you encourage us to try different, useful features available in the cameras (and avoid the bad ones!) And as always... encouraging us to always keep an eye open for photo opportunities! Camera at the ready.
@@TheSquishySnail that is so true. It is also getting difficult for me to make videos, since I need the clear sky for a lot of subjects I try to demonstrate.
Thank you Robin, I look forward to all your videos as they are so informative. I took your ISO 200 challenge, I'm a bird photographer so when I use ISO 200 and aperture priority it brings the shutter speed down to 40-200 depending on light, making s stunningly beautiful photo. When I think the bird is gonna fly then its manual mode 1/2000 to freeze wings and auto ISO. I shot a Steller's Jay in the trees yesterday at ISO 6400, I got rid of most of the noise in lightroom. Only other photographers see noise the general public not so much!
As usual very good and to the point. For me as a beginner with more advanced cameras, GH5 and GM1, I need to learn a lot fast.... I have only used point and shoot and smartphones for many, many years. My last advanced camera was an Olympus OM-2n.
Robin thank you for your very helpful and practical video. Your first point came as a real revelation to me, I have the OMD EM1X and I set it to ISO 3200 and I did see a genuine difference in the images taken with mechanical shutter mode and the silent mode. The noise was different and but were the colours, the mechanical shutter image being preferable to my eyes. This has made me reconsider my shooting options. I had recently moved to silent mode for most shots mainly because of course it is very quiet (I shoot mostly natural history ) but I also presumed it would result in less wear and tear on the camera and also less vibration when shooting.. I appreciate the noise phenomenon is less apparent at lower ISO but I always want to minimise noise after coming from a full frame camera. This brings to to using the mechanical shutter for most of the time, I have used the Anti shock setting which I understand only takes effect on images taken at less than 1/320 sec. I am a little puzzled why antishock is optional but why should I not use it for all exposures (except stacking etc), I presume there is some disadvantage - does it for example slow down the frame rate? I would appreciate your thoughts if you don't mind sharing them.
Thanks, I do my best to share what I can. The reason anti-shock was an option because it does not happen all the time, and surely not in all scenarios. The vibration has become a more serious issue in smaller and lighter cameras (Olympus made everything smaller). The smaller construction was not good to dampen the vibration from the shutter mechanism. However, if you are using the E-M1X, which is not too small, I'd imagine shutter vibration is much less of an issue, and can be negligible. Of course this needs to be verified case by case, if I don't get shutter shock on my camera does not mean it won't happen to yours. Do a bit more experimentation and find out what works best for you!
Hi Robin, thx so much for your advice. However, you mentioned, the 20mp sensor has a greenish noise pattern when shooting in electronic shutter. I have been shooting in silent mode with my em1 mark ii for more than a year now, and didn't encounter this problem. But out of interest, I did a quick test. The result suprised me! in a different way! According to my observation, it actually looks like that, the electronic shutter has a more neutral color right up to iso 3200. (I lift up shadow area to 100% for all the pictures.) The greenish noise of the picture taken with both mechanical shutter and electronic shutter begin to manifest starting from 1600. while the electronic shutter have around 2/3 stops advantage. At iso 3200, the picture taken by mechanical shutter simply fall apart, unusable if you lift up shadows, while the electronic shutter is still savable. However, the most interesting part is at iso 6400, the image taken by mechanical shutter suddenly cleaned up! its color become much more neutral. while the the image taken with electronic shutter is roughly as bad as or a bit better than the picture taken with mechanical shutter at iso 3200. Although I believe the picture taken with electronic shutter still preserve a little bit more contrast detail, even with more noise. I know this is pixel picking, but I do love my em1 mark ii, and tend to get most out of it. I did this quick test in manual mode, with WB at 3200k. Could you do a more through test to comfirm or denounce my result? Really looking forwards! Also you just made me discovered that my em1 mark ii can still preserve a tone of shadow details up to iso 800 :)
I have done quite a thorough test (though doing that in video will be a bore for most). In my tests, I can't see much of a difference until ISO1600. ISO3200, and especially ISO6400, the electronic shutter shows worse image degradation. We are not just talking about noise, but there are ugly color patches/blotches in shadow areas. Of course, if we don't underexpose we won't see these problems much.
Another point about Gradation set to Normal in high ISO situations. When you shoot video with Gradation set to Auto in high ISO situations you will see the camera shifting the shadows to be brighter and ruins the video. I would say that the Gradation should be set to Normal in video mode as well in high ISO situations. Just an extension of what Robin is saying.
Hi Robin, great advice again, I was just thinking about the underexpose. In reality, if you do that with high ISO shooting you don't do it at the same ISO, you underexpose to get lower ISO of course. Usually, if I hit ISO 4000 on my camera I prefer to stay there and if the scene is too dark just underexpose it that way instead of going to ISO 8000-10000-12800 etc. The crucial part is not to lift the shadows after that :)
Well, that is OK for black shadows. But if you have color (for instance skintones) in the underexposed area's you get the problem of color noise which is ugly even if don't lift it. So then I would advise to boost ISO to preserve color and not underexpose.
Hi Robin, I use raw 99% of the times and found the ones regarding the use of mechanical vs electronic shutter very interesting not only for night photography which I do rarely but for photographing wildlife like birds (speed) & forest animals (quiet) which I do more often. The one on the exposure also very, very true. Thanks for the good advices!
Great video Robin. I find myself having to use higher ISO even during the day as I do a lot of woodland photos where there is a lot of tree cover and ambient light is low. I'll keep your tips in mind...
Wow! Thank you so much! I have been handling wrong and using electronic shutter to decrease noise during dance concerts. Yikes! Now I know why these have been so unsatisfying to edit. Thanks! 👍🏼
I forgot I saw this . It was a timely reminder , as I am planning to do some night scene photography once the lockdown becomes less restrictive . I shall be doing this with a friend on a trip to the city , once the weather becomes warmer . He will be using full frame camera and I the Em10 ii and the kit lens. I see this as a exercise to play on my skills at something I have never quite successfully executed in the past. But, I feel more than capable at achieving some nice images where I will use as much of the local lighting around me to capture some nice keepers . Some of your images in this video teased me to emulate the look I had in mind from where you were talking to camera . Anyway, practise and evaluation of the images will enable alteration of lighting . The images will be on tripod and exposure will be several seconds to several minutes I suspect . I intend to shoot at 200 as much as possible , as I want the cleanser looking files as possible . I will also push the ISO up from the base number where I think it will help. But, and this is subjective , I will not worry too much about noise in the image if it suits the subject. This would work for both colour and black and white in certain situations . For example , a person indoors in a poorly lit room, but where you want to capture a true rendition of the space. Anyway, thank you Robin for the creative juices you have injected in to my imagination by having watched your video .
Great as always. Ideas for future settings videos. 1) MACRO. Eg flash intensity, flash duration, diffusers vs normal flashes, SS, aperture, aperture priority vs macro/microscope mode, bracketing, best stacking settings, micro video, etc... Picture settings for jpg macro shooter would be great too. I like picture mode normal > gradation auto myself (auto gradation actually works well to balance shadows created by flash photography). 2) SEQUENCE SHOOTING: Eg Low vs High vs pro-capture vs sports mode, etc... Trade-offs in SS, iso, focus, image quality for different FPS settings. I find "single" produces significantly better images than sequence and I'm not sure why. 3) WHITE BALANCE: Video vs stills, AWB vs OTWB vs presets. I find even with "Keep Warm Colors" off, Olympus tends to produce warm images...especially in scenes with a lot of water and green trees. However, the sunny WB preset actually seems to work well when you need to preserve blue skies/blue oceans/green trees (IMO). Would be great to hear your insight on WB.
Great suggestions! I have an updated macro shooting video in the pipeline, so that one will be up and running soon. I don't do a lot of burst shooting, but I shall see what I can do with that. As for white balance, I generally shoot RAW and tweak my white balance as necessary, but I understand there are JPEG shooters as well, and yes that will be discussed soon. Thanks!
Thanks Peter, glad you found the video useful. As much as I love doing a video with 300mm, it is also a focal length I don't use a lot. I shall do it maybe at a later date, I am sharing tips/tricks/techniques that I am familiar with, and am efficient at producing results!
Tip #3 is spot on. While "ISO invariant" cameras/sensors (like the Sony A7) do not show this effect, all Olympus cameras I've used so far actually give much better results when using higher (!) ISO settings and higher exposure. Still, some OM-D models will give better results than others (I tried the E-M1II, and it does a much better job in low-light situations than my Pen F).
Yeah, someone in the comment thread (or was it a discussion elsewhere) suggested Olympus to have invariant ISO sensors. I was very sure that was wrong.
@@robinwong The way my Pen F acts its sensor is definitely not ISO invariant, while my Sony A7 behaves like being ISO invariant. It might depend on the model and the specific sensor, but all Olympus shooters tell the same story when it comes to minimizing noise with their cameras: Don't underexpose, use higher ISO instead - and this is *not* how it would be with an ISO invariant sensor! Different story with cameras like the A7: It seems to make no difference if I underexpose or use a higher ISO value - more or less the same result. Some people think that *all* current digital cameras have ISO invariant sensors, or that all sensors are ISO invariant, but that's not the case (some cameras have "zones" of ISO invariance; I can't remember which one, but I read about a model having another gain setting from ISO 800 upwards than below, and this makes sense to me as an electrical engineer).
@@robinwong About your tip to not use silent shutter - what about "anti-shake" (first curtain electronic, second curtain mechanical)? I don't see any problems with that one, and technically it should be fine too. But I might do a little testing when the situation arises.
I am making a series of videos on optimizing/getting the best out of your Olympus OM-D cameras. In case you have missed these previous videos, here they are, hopefully beneficial to you and our shooting process! 7 Tips on Optimizing Dynamic Range - ruclips.net/video/PIUeUOIBM10/видео.html Getting Sharp Images - ruclips.net/video/4jQMI5HPkvg/видео.html More videos to come!
High ISO noise with an electronic shutter is due to the sensor constantly exposed when recording 16 or 20mp images. My E-M10 will get a bit warm like I'm recording a video using that electronic shutter but it never overheats. That brief split second when the shutter passes the sensor does makes a difference. My old E-520 DSLR with the clunky live view feature would show a lot a noise in the image if I used it too long. Very rarely I would use it, usually just to compose the shot for something I had to reach over my head for.
For Panasonic cameras, it was clearly stated that when electronic shutter is used, the RAW file recorded is at 10bits, not the typical 12bits RAW from normal mechanical shutter. I don't think this is the same reason for Olympus, but who knows. We don't have the full information.
Hi Robin, great videos full stop. ISO I think you are preaching to the afflicted. ISO is a problem but there are so many techniques to reduce the inevitable small sensor effect. taking 100's of shots in low light may present 100's of "problematic ISO scenarios". But the one or two keeper shots can be edited in various way to improve the situation. Multi shot (pano etc) will reduce noise. The problem as I see it is accepting the compromise of the Olympus / Panasonic sensor size against the FF high MP cameras. The compromise is a great shot is a great shot in good light. In bad light a tweak or two are needed. "In focus" is the key M4/3's I think is more forgiving that FF. On social media display Pixel peeping is useless. The image impact rises above the pixel peeper. I recently shot against the mighty Sony's, Cannon's and Nikon's on a night shoot in London. SO?? in raw HDR pano's, Photoshop and care to pick and produce the best of my captures. OK more work required but the impact of the images was good and up there with the best on the night. BUT some took shots with their phones for quick facebook/instagram sharing. Some of these were stunning in comparison of all efforts. The bottom line is for me as an Olympus shooter, I'm happy with so many advantages over the FF systems. Yes computational photography AI if you like, will in my mind, resolve all image shortcomings regardless of camera system or sensor size. BTW I enjoy you tips on using Olympus. I have an EM-1 Mkii and today I'm taking delivery of the EM1-X (I sold my em10 & Em5 and a few lens to upgrade). Take a look at why I love Olympus EM1-Mkii (and the PanoLeica 100-400). www.flickr.com/photos/plattsnaps/
Thanks for sharing Alan, and indeed high ISO noise should not be a problem these days. You are right about the advantages that the Olympus cameras bring, the features, once we are used to them, they make a huge difference! Glad that you find the videos and tips useful. More interesting stuff coming for sure!
Thanks, finally someone making a video on high-ISO in LOW LIGHT :) Recently I've seen two talking of high-iso during day time, relevant but less interesting for me. A question: as for Tip-1, would your experience suggest to avoid also the zero-shock shutter (if I'm not wrong it is called first curtain electronic shutter, or simply 'the one next to a heart' in the Olympus menu?
Love your videos but wish I had known these tips earlier. Especially the silent shutter, because I became so frustrated with noise while shooting streets at night (with silent shutter) that I switched to full frame which is great for street but for anything else the lenses are mega expensive and heavy. I too am an "old man" :)
In the lower light or low light , I have one more trick , use spot focusing and we can bring down the exposure one or two 1/3 stops below , hence increase the speed. But the depth of the image will be slightly effected as compensation 😁 🙏
Hi from Spain, Robin! Thanks a lot for your videos!! Looking forward to watching the next one... I am enjoying so much the learning process with you... Kind regards!!
Nice video, but reamain the doubt about the moving subjects... because if i wanna overexposed, my shutter need to be much slower.. i notice this ploblem taking some shots to a party where i didn't want to use flash, simply cause the flash was orrible and it covered the colored light of the place. So i wasn't able to take some good shot. i remember that i shooted that night at 3200/4000 iso, with the aperture at 1.4 with the 25 panaleica, and the shutter to 1/30... the results were just disturbing, like iso noise it self..
Hi Robin! Just bought my first Olympus OM-D and having found your channel only today I've learnt so much already, thank you for sharing all your knowledge. What software are you using to edit photos in this video?
I had no idea about the scene mode - in fact I never used any scene mode except for those playing with colour during the first week of having my camera. I'll check how it works tonight at the event I organise in a dim area although my guess is it's not gonna so perfect for moving subjects if it takes several pictures.
I will shoot ISO 3200 all evening long at a music concert. Even though I shoot with prime lenses I generally don't shoot wide open, usually f2.8 and I still get a minimum of 1/125 shutter speed at +0.7 exposure comp. I like shooting Vintage 3 JPEG and Raw. Rarely I have to edit the JPEG other than a little bit of crop and light Highlight, Shadow and Brightness adjustments. Nice part is Olympus Workspace has all the presents if I have to do anything heavier with the RAW image.
@@robinwong I just realized why I may have forgotten the 0., I was helping a friend learn how to the exposure comp on a Pentax Me. That dial has 1/4, 1/2, 1x, 2x, 4x. The exposure comp and shutter speeds are done in full stops. We take for granted the flexibility of digital cameras of a 1/3 of a stop until you shoot this film camera. Oh...and your highest shutter speed is 1/1000.
I never thought about comparing electronic vs mechanical shutter in high iso, that was an interesting thing, I will try it out tonight! Regarding don't underexpose in low light - I agree with you fully on that one, however often when it is an issue is on events and such that include people in the shot, then the primary limiting factor is your shutter speed. and with Olympus and low light, I tend to shoot wide open to reduce noise. So the only way to get a brighter exposure would be to up the iso even more, are you suggesting that an iso6k4 would end up being less noisy than same S and A settings in iso3k2? I will test that also tonight but it would be interesting to hear your take on this aspect of low light scenarios where iso is the only variable available to adjust exposure.
@@robinwong Then how do you up the exposure when you are already at the lowest acceptable shutter speed for your scene and wide open? Like a live concert as you had as in one of your samples. You were at 1/320 so I guess you had some room to slow the shutter speed, but I often end up in very poorly lit events, where Im already bordering how low I can go due to movements on stage.
I even shoot with ISO 25600 and people still tell me: wow it is better than my smartphone :P, hahha, of course it is. So even with the highest ISO the images are good enough for some people (of course not for pros or for wedding photographs which should be printed big) . I have to try the starlight mode in the scenery ,thanks for the tip.
Hi Robin, and greetings from the U.K, a Great useful video as always. You mentioned shooting with Starlight mode, (using 'Scene' on the dial)..my EM1 Mark 3 does not have this feature however, do you know if there is an alternative to using Starlight in the Mark 3, as when its cloudy, or shady conditions I'm getting quite grainy results , I'm using Auto ISO, on M, I tried using manual ISO but I have to take the shutter speed down and bung the ISO up to about 3200, this is not ideal if I'm trying to capture Birds in the Garden, a slower shutter speed causes blur and the higher ISO , (or Auto) also causes noise. I must add that I have only had the camera for about 2 weeks now. Many thanks, Colin
Thanks Robin for your videos and your suggestions very useful to use my M1 mark 2. A greeting from Italy and continues to abdicate useful suggestions. Thanks Sorry for my bad English
Post-processing tip: Topaz Denoise AI. That software works wonders! It cleans the ISO noise whilst preserving the fine detail and sharpness! It´s by far the best noise reduction software that I have come across.
Tips ,Tips ,Tips. Tip #8 Get a Fuji XT 10 for nights low light shooting And use any shutter you want.. Period💪 Shoot in JPEG. Don't worrie about Pp... Remember this is for low light at night with ambient light and don't take your tripod and drink a ☕of coffee before and affter finishing shooting... Jajaja!!! Just kidding.. Good tips on every video of Robin 👀 I own the Oly 10 mkll following all this tips and i been doing good and better Everytime...
Hi Robin - another excellent video. The mechanical shutter tip is an interesting one - not something I’d noticed but I’m rarely shooting both shutter types of the same scene so really invaluable tip. I didn’t even know about handheld starlight mode on my backup E-M5.2. Do you know why the features isn’t on E-M1.2? Do they figure those users would prefer to do it themselves in post from multiple exposures? Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the kind words. I have no idea why Olympus removed all Scene modes from their flagship cameras. Maybe they thought those aren't useful for advanced shooters.
Hi, thank you for the video, it´s pretty interesting. Did you know if you can use the automatic bracketing whit this camera or with olympus om-d e-m1 mark iii if you´re shooting at 50 or 80 mpx superphoto? And, did you know if exist some flashes that you can connect to the camera and control them with radiofrecuence like Canon 600 series does? I´m considering to change all my CAnon stuff and move to Olympus, but still need more info about it. Thank you, regards.
hello ROBIN, thanks so much for your videos and tips. I have a special request, can you make a video about how to use and set up the Olympus workspace software. the way to have your screen setup is perfect. please do this my friend. thank you
Hi Robin: Great suggestions in this video. I have noticed that you are using Capture One vs. Lightroom. I am considering making the move over to Capture One as well. Do you find that Capture One processes the Olympus RAW files better than Lightroom? Regards, Keith Pinn
2:29 this green effect im now wondering is this also appears when using "anti shock" too as dispite spending way too long on performing custom white balance, im getting this green effect when using "anti shock" on the E‑M10 Mark III... I will have to do a comparison test to see now.
Hi Robin, do you have any tips/tricks re shooting small birds with the 40-150mm pro lens, M1 mark2? I’m finding my images are noisy. Atm uk is in heatwave so v bright conditions
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
Every Olympus camera should come with a little card that has a link to this channel! I always learn something from your videos, Robin. Thanks for putting in this effort.
Thanks! You are being too kind!
Totally agree!!!
Chris Koehn Agreed, it’s great that Robin is kind enough with his time to help us all out here!
@@stephenfox5133 Thanks!
This channel is great. However Olympus probably doesn't want to draw too much attention to the fact that their cameras are an Asian product. They chose a Greek brand name to obscure this.
Robin is an official wonderful person! :D
Tip #7 Keep the sensor cool. When shooting at high ISO a lot of the noise comes from a bad signal to noise issue when the sensor is hot. Keep the camera turned off when not in use, avoid shooting video followed by high ISO shots. Avoid multiple long exposure shots at high ISO. The higher the ISO the higher the voltage = more heat genirated. I did a test where I put a OMD in my freezer for 15 min turned it on and shot a 30sec exposure at 25,600 ISO with the lens cap on, almost no noise compared to the same camera after 5-15 min of long exposures or video later. This is why often your first long exposure looks betterer and cleaner than the rest.
:)
Thanks for sharing the tip! Though I probably wouldn't recommend people freezing their cameras!
@@robinwong It is part of the marketing for the EM-1 line of cameras - freeze proof! Didn't you see the images with the cameras frozen into a solid block of ice?
@@robinwong or when Tony Northrup did that freeze test. It made me sick to my stomach. So if you accidently loose your EM1X in a snow blizzard, you can come back when the storm has passed. 🤣
I know the most recent TG-6 manual says that heat can cause noise as well. I think it would be fascinating to test the different modes to see what caused the most noise (4k vs 1080 video...burst mode vs single shot....etc.).
Had no idea about silent/electronic shutter and noise.
Thanks for the tip.
No worries, glad I could help!
The funny thing, to me as an old man... (41) I think high ISO is 800-1600... Which m4/3 camera are fine at. Where as younger users think of high ISO as 12500... So I don't see a high ISO issue! :)
That's true, at ISO1600, any OM-D camera can do really well!
Lol! At 68, I see iso 400 as “fast” still, but using film. Digital 3200/6400 iso range is still magic to me compared to film these days. 😀
Hahaha ha...
For me... As a photographer in a comunist country, where it's possible to find only 100iso... and on the black market, under the table.. 200iso.... Now, digital era with 52000iso....man I'm speechless and mesmerized in the same time
He it's me a guy from 3 years in the future, 10 years younger than you. I'm exactly in the middle! I consider high ISO to be 3200. I remember being able to get 3200 film but it looks like dog shit, even in black and white, so that wasn't an option but I remember getting a Canon DSLR that took usable images at that ISO so that's my bar.
Robin is the best source ever for tips on Olympus cameras. I find his advice clear, practical and easy to use.
I recently bought an OMD em10 Mark iii and in search of suggestions I discovered your youtube channel. your advice is pure gold for me. thank you so much for your precious work
No worries, glad that you find these tips I shared useful!
Robin, thank you for being a great teacher and helping me along my learning curve!
No worries, glad I could help out!
This is brilliant Robin. Tip1. I had no idea silent shutter was to blame for the green cast in low light images and more noise. Thank you 🙏
Now you know! Glad I could help a bit!
Hi, Robin! Thanks for your video! Btw, what iso do you recommend to be last in silent mode?
Thank you Robin for another brilliant set of tips. It is so refreshing to hear you say "Go into scene mode...". Didn't realize the stitching capability on night hand held. That was a gem.
Always something new to learn! I only found out about that a year or two ago, and that mode has been around for many years!
I've been very impressed with my OMDEM1 MK3 in low light wildlife photography. The crop of AI noise suppression tools also make a HUGE difference. My preference is the LightRoom denoise as I feel it does a great job of suppressing noise really well without trying to go to the lengths of some of the other AI solutions - leaving a much cleaner photo but without the melted plastic look. I'm sure a full frame would be way better but then standing in water as the sun sets with a heavy system - waiting for the right moment - I feel I would be shaking so much at that point I wouldn't get a good shot anyway. Its all about trade-offs and I'm happy with mine.
Thank you Robin. Great tips as always. You continue to confirm my faith in micro four thirds.
Thanks for the kind words!
I would appreciate an additional video on how to make use of extreme high isos, like 12800 or 25600. Tips and tricks regarding the picture mode, saturation, contrast, sharpening, noise filtering, grain simulation, color filters.... I am also surprised that bracketing was not mentioned in this video, since it can be very useful when shooting movement.
About keeping the sensor cool. In telescopes, the image sensor (usually CCD) is kept quite cold to minimize noise.
Best tip ever never ever underexpose!!!
I went from Olympus to Panasonic but still find your videos useful.
Thanks, glad I could help!
andrei ka don’t do video, otherwise I’ve been going back and forth since Panasonic came out with there one and only 4/3 camera the L1. And I would disagree with everything you said personally and find them pretty equal in that respect. My switch was for the view finder on the G9 being superior for my specific eyes. 7 years from now it could be Olympus again.
andrei ka if that works for you wonderful.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. The nr. 1 tip is very interesting and something I didn‘t know, will try that.
Thanks for the kind words, and I am glad the tips are useful!
Yes!!! Another drop of Robin Wisdom! I do enjoy how you encourage us to try different, useful features available in the cameras (and avoid the bad ones!)
And as always... encouraging us to always keep an eye open for photo opportunities! Camera at the ready.
Thanks! Go out and shoot more!!
@@robinwong but...but...but...haze!!! 🤣
@@TheSquishySnail that is so true. It is also getting difficult for me to make videos, since I need the clear sky for a lot of subjects I try to demonstrate.
Tip #4 - Shoot ‘Roar’!!! Love the video. !!
RAWWWRRR!!!
Thank you Robin, I look forward to all your videos as they are so informative. I took your ISO 200 challenge, I'm a bird photographer so when I use ISO 200 and aperture priority it brings the shutter speed down to 40-200 depending on light, making s stunningly beautiful photo. When I think the bird is gonna fly then its manual mode 1/2000 to freeze wings and auto ISO. I shot a Steller's Jay in the trees yesterday at ISO 6400, I got rid of most of the noise in lightroom. Only other photographers see noise the general public not so much!
Thank you Robin ofr this video with tipps and tricks. I had so much trouble with High ISO. I will try to get some shoots this night
Great tips ! each camera should be sold with these attached instructions
Thanks, you are too kind!
Always good and wise advices for Olympus cameras thank you so much Robin
Great video and not only for Olympus and MFT: These tricks work with my Fuji as well. Thank you so much for your advice.
As usual very good and to the point. For me as a beginner with more advanced cameras, GH5 and GM1, I need to learn a lot fast.... I have only used point and shoot and smartphones for many, many years. My last advanced camera was an Olympus OM-2n.
No worries, I am glad the video is helpful. Keep shooting, that's the only way to know the cameras more and get more efficient operating them!
Well organized. Robin, keep up the great work breaking down all of the features to enhance and optimize image quality!
Thanks Andrew! More videos are coming for sure.
Robin thank you for your very helpful and practical video. Your first point came as a real revelation to me, I have the OMD EM1X and I set it to ISO 3200 and I did see a genuine difference in the images taken with mechanical shutter mode and the silent mode. The noise was different and but were the colours, the mechanical shutter image being preferable to my eyes. This has made me reconsider my shooting options. I had recently moved to silent mode for most shots mainly because of course it is very quiet (I shoot mostly natural history ) but I also presumed it would result in less wear and tear on the camera and also less vibration when shooting.. I appreciate the noise phenomenon is less apparent at lower ISO but I always want to minimise noise after coming from a full frame camera. This brings to to using the mechanical shutter for most of the time, I have used the Anti shock setting which I understand only takes effect on images taken at less than 1/320 sec. I am a little puzzled why antishock is optional but why should I not use it for all exposures (except stacking etc), I presume there is some disadvantage - does it for example slow down the frame rate? I would appreciate your thoughts if you don't mind sharing them.
Thanks, I do my best to share what I can. The reason anti-shock was an option because it does not happen all the time, and surely not in all scenarios. The vibration has become a more serious issue in smaller and lighter cameras (Olympus made everything smaller). The smaller construction was not good to dampen the vibration from the shutter mechanism. However, if you are using the E-M1X, which is not too small, I'd imagine shutter vibration is much less of an issue, and can be negligible. Of course this needs to be verified case by case, if I don't get shutter shock on my camera does not mean it won't happen to yours. Do a bit more experimentation and find out what works best for you!
Hi Robin, thx so much for your advice. However, you mentioned, the 20mp sensor has a greenish noise pattern when shooting in electronic shutter. I have been shooting in silent mode with my em1 mark ii for more than a year now, and didn't encounter this problem. But out of interest, I did a quick test. The result suprised me! in a different way! According to my observation, it actually looks like that, the electronic shutter has a more neutral color right up to iso 3200. (I lift up shadow area to 100% for all the pictures.) The greenish noise of the picture taken with both mechanical shutter and electronic shutter begin to manifest starting from 1600. while the electronic shutter have around 2/3 stops advantage. At iso 3200, the picture taken by mechanical shutter simply fall apart, unusable if you lift up shadows, while the electronic shutter is still savable. However, the most interesting part is at iso 6400, the image taken by mechanical shutter suddenly cleaned up! its color become much more neutral. while the the image taken with electronic shutter is roughly as bad as or a bit better than the picture taken with mechanical shutter at iso 3200. Although I believe the picture taken with electronic shutter still preserve a little bit more contrast detail, even with more noise.
I know this is pixel picking, but I do love my em1 mark ii, and tend to get most out of it. I did this quick test in manual mode, with WB at 3200k.
Could you do a more through test to comfirm or denounce my result? Really looking forwards! Also you just made me discovered that my em1 mark ii can still preserve a tone of shadow details up to iso 800 :)
I have done quite a thorough test (though doing that in video will be a bore for most). In my tests, I can't see much of a difference until ISO1600. ISO3200, and especially ISO6400, the electronic shutter shows worse image degradation. We are not just talking about noise, but there are ugly color patches/blotches in shadow areas. Of course, if we don't underexpose we won't see these problems much.
Another point about Gradation set to Normal in high ISO situations. When you shoot video with Gradation set to Auto in high ISO situations you will see the camera shifting the shadows to be brighter and ruins the video. I would say that the Gradation should be set to Normal in video mode as well in high ISO situations. Just an extension of what Robin is saying.
Great tips and demo images Robin. This should be really helpful, thanks!
Hi Robin, great advice again, I was just thinking about the underexpose. In reality, if you do that with high ISO shooting you don't do it at the same ISO, you underexpose to get lower ISO of course. Usually, if I hit ISO 4000 on my camera I prefer to stay there and if the scene is too dark just underexpose it that way instead of going to ISO 8000-10000-12800 etc. The crucial part is not to lift the shadows after that :)
Yeap, as long as you don't mess with the shadows, it should be perfectly fine!
Well, that is OK for black shadows. But if you have color (for instance skintones) in the underexposed area's you get the problem of color noise which is ugly even if don't lift it. So then I would advise to boost ISO to preserve color and not underexpose.
Hi Robin, I use raw 99% of the times and found the ones regarding the use of mechanical vs electronic shutter very interesting not only for night photography which I do rarely but for photographing wildlife like birds (speed) & forest animals (quiet) which I do more often. The one on the exposure also very, very true.
Thanks for the good advices!
I'm glad you find the sharing useful. For lower ISO we can use silent shutter with no consequence. Just avoid it when shooting higher ISO numbers.
Great video Robin. I find myself having to use higher ISO even during the day as I do a lot of woodland photos where there is a lot of tree cover and ambient light is low. I'll keep your tips in mind...
Wow! Thank you so much! I have been handling wrong and using electronic shutter to decrease noise during dance concerts. Yikes! Now I know why these have been so unsatisfying to edit. Thanks! 👍🏼
I forgot I saw this . It was a timely reminder , as I am planning to do some night scene photography once the lockdown becomes less restrictive . I shall be doing this with a friend on a trip to the city , once the weather becomes warmer . He will be using full frame camera and I the Em10 ii and the kit lens. I see this as a exercise to play on my skills at something I have never quite successfully executed in the past. But, I feel more than capable at achieving some nice images where I will use as much of the local lighting around me to capture some nice keepers . Some of your images in this video teased me to emulate the look I had in mind from where you were talking to camera . Anyway, practise and evaluation of the images will enable alteration of lighting . The images will be on tripod and exposure will be several seconds to several minutes I suspect . I intend to shoot at 200 as much as possible , as I want the cleanser looking files as possible . I will also push the ISO up from the base number where I think it will help. But, and this is subjective , I will not worry too much about noise in the image if it suits the subject. This would work for both colour and black and white in certain situations . For example , a person indoors in a poorly lit room, but where you want to capture a true rendition of the space. Anyway, thank you Robin for the creative juices you have injected in to my imagination by having watched your video .
You help me so much with your videos!
Really grateful you put in so much work :)
Great as always. Ideas for future settings videos.
1) MACRO. Eg flash intensity, flash duration, diffusers vs normal flashes, SS, aperture, aperture priority vs macro/microscope mode, bracketing, best stacking settings, micro video, etc... Picture settings for jpg macro shooter would be great too. I like picture mode normal > gradation auto myself (auto gradation actually works well to balance shadows created by flash photography).
2) SEQUENCE SHOOTING: Eg Low vs High vs pro-capture vs sports mode, etc... Trade-offs in SS, iso, focus, image quality for different FPS settings. I find "single" produces significantly better images than sequence and I'm not sure why.
3) WHITE BALANCE: Video vs stills, AWB vs OTWB vs presets. I find even with "Keep Warm Colors" off, Olympus tends to produce warm images...especially in scenes with a lot of water and green trees. However, the sunny WB preset actually seems to work well when you need to preserve blue skies/blue oceans/green trees (IMO). Would be great to hear your insight on WB.
Great suggestions! I have an updated macro shooting video in the pipeline, so that one will be up and running soon. I don't do a lot of burst shooting, but I shall see what I can do with that. As for white balance, I generally shoot RAW and tweak my white balance as necessary, but I understand there are JPEG shooters as well, and yes that will be discussed soon. Thanks!
You're an excellent educator Robin!
Thank you Robin, I enjoy watching your videos. You and Olympus are the best!
Thanks for organized and share the tips. I also share your last tip about dynamic range to my olympus community.
Thanks and yes please feel free to share the tips around!
The high ISO-video was very useful. Annother topic I would suggest: "more sharpness while using 300mm Pro with converters"
Thanks Peter, glad you found the video useful. As much as I love doing a video with 300mm, it is also a focal length I don't use a lot. I shall do it maybe at a later date, I am sharing tips/tricks/techniques that I am familiar with, and am efficient at producing results!
Tip #3 is spot on. While "ISO invariant" cameras/sensors (like the Sony A7) do not show this effect, all Olympus cameras I've used so far actually give much better results when using higher (!) ISO settings and higher exposure. Still, some OM-D models will give better results than others (I tried the E-M1II, and it does a much better job in low-light situations than my Pen F).
Yeah, someone in the comment thread (or was it a discussion elsewhere) suggested Olympus to have invariant ISO sensors. I was very sure that was wrong.
@@robinwong The way my Pen F acts its sensor is definitely not ISO invariant, while my Sony A7 behaves like being ISO invariant. It might depend on the model and the specific sensor, but all Olympus shooters tell the same story when it comes to minimizing noise with their cameras: Don't underexpose, use higher ISO instead - and this is *not* how it would be with an ISO invariant sensor! Different story with cameras like the A7: It seems to make no difference if I underexpose or use a higher ISO value - more or less the same result. Some people think that *all* current digital cameras have ISO invariant sensors, or that all sensors are ISO invariant, but that's not the case (some cameras have "zones" of ISO invariance; I can't remember which one, but I read about a model having another gain setting from ISO 800 upwards than below, and this makes sense to me as an electrical engineer).
@@robinwong About your tip to not use silent shutter - what about "anti-shake" (first curtain electronic, second curtain mechanical)? I don't see any problems with that one, and technically it should be fine too. But I might do a little testing when the situation arises.
Thanks for your advice!! And also congrats for your channel!!🤙🤙🤙
Thanks Robin for this new tips!!
The tip number five, is very, very important remember in high ISO. Good advice.
Thanks, I am glad I could be of help!
Nice tips, some I do, but without thinking about it, that means the results are so different. Great Video!
Thanks! Glad the video is useful.
thanks for Tip #1, I always wonder why I got green cast in my photo and I would never think of silent shutter to cause this, thank you very much
I just love your videos. Thank You for sharing such useful tips. Will surely try these when I am next shooting in low light.
Excellent tips thanks again Robin!
You are welcome!
i can't thank you enough for these tips!!!
You are welcome! Glad they are helpful.
I am making a series of videos on optimizing/getting the best out of your Olympus OM-D cameras. In case you have missed these previous videos, here they are, hopefully beneficial to you and our shooting process!
7 Tips on Optimizing Dynamic Range - ruclips.net/video/PIUeUOIBM10/видео.html
Getting Sharp Images - ruclips.net/video/4jQMI5HPkvg/видео.html
More videos to come!
Tip #6 Sometimes you need to use a flash or add more light.
Tip #7 Use DXO photolab which has a much better raw converter than Adobe light room.
High ISO noise with an electronic shutter is due to the sensor constantly exposed when recording 16 or 20mp images. My E-M10 will get a bit warm like I'm recording a video using that electronic shutter but it never overheats. That brief split second when the shutter passes the sensor does makes a difference.
My old E-520 DSLR with the clunky live view feature would show a lot a noise in the image if I used it too long. Very rarely I would use it, usually just to compose the shot for something I had to reach over my head for.
For Panasonic cameras, it was clearly stated that when electronic shutter is used, the RAW file recorded is at 10bits, not the typical 12bits RAW from normal mechanical shutter. I don't think this is the same reason for Olympus, but who knows. We don't have the full information.
@@robinwong interesting...sounds like an interesting project that I may do, even though I rarely use it.
Thank you so much for TIP 3. I always did that wrong...
No worries, glad I could help!
Hi Robin, great videos full stop. ISO I think you are preaching to the afflicted. ISO is a problem but there are so many techniques to reduce the inevitable small sensor effect. taking 100's of shots in low light may present 100's of "problematic ISO scenarios". But the one or two keeper shots can be edited in various way to improve the situation. Multi shot (pano etc) will reduce noise. The problem as I see it is accepting the compromise of the Olympus / Panasonic sensor size against the FF high MP cameras. The compromise is a great shot is a great shot in good light. In bad light a tweak or two are needed. "In focus" is the key M4/3's I think is more forgiving that FF. On social media display Pixel peeping is useless. The image impact rises above the pixel peeper. I recently shot against the mighty Sony's, Cannon's and Nikon's on a night shoot in London. SO?? in raw HDR pano's, Photoshop and care to pick and produce the best of my captures. OK more work required but the impact of the images was good and up there with the best on the night. BUT some took shots with their phones for quick facebook/instagram sharing. Some of these were stunning in comparison of all efforts. The bottom line is for me as an Olympus shooter, I'm happy with so many advantages over the FF systems. Yes computational photography AI if you like, will in my mind, resolve all image shortcomings regardless of camera system or sensor size. BTW I enjoy you tips on using Olympus. I have an EM-1 Mkii and today I'm taking delivery of the EM1-X (I sold my em10 & Em5 and a few lens to upgrade). Take a look at why I love Olympus EM1-Mkii (and the PanoLeica 100-400). www.flickr.com/photos/plattsnaps/
Thanks for sharing Alan, and indeed high ISO noise should not be a problem these days. You are right about the advantages that the Olympus cameras bring, the features, once we are used to them, they make a huge difference! Glad that you find the videos and tips useful. More interesting stuff coming for sure!
Another great blog Robin you encourage me
Thanks! Go out and shoot more!
Great Video Robin. Very informative.
Thanks Paul!
Thanks, finally someone making a video on high-ISO in LOW LIGHT :) Recently I've seen two talking of high-iso during day time, relevant but less interesting for me. A question: as for Tip-1, would your experience suggest to avoid also the zero-shock shutter (if I'm not wrong it is called first curtain electronic shutter, or simply 'the one next to a heart' in the Olympus menu?
I also have the same question.
Love your videos but wish I had known these tips earlier. Especially the silent shutter, because I became so frustrated with noise while shooting streets at night (with silent shutter) that I switched to full frame which is great for street but for anything else the lenses are mega expensive and heavy. I too am an "old man" :)
No worries. There is always something new to learn! We are never too old to enjoy and do photography.
In the lower light or low light , I have one more trick , use spot focusing and we can bring down the exposure one or two 1/3 stops below , hence increase the speed.
But the depth of the image will be slightly effected as compensation 😁
🙏
Hi from Spain, Robin!
Thanks a lot for your videos!!
Looking forward to watching the next one...
I am enjoying so much the learning process with you...
Kind regards!!
Thanks! More videos are coming up! Doing my best
@@robinwong go ahead, please!! :-)
Nice video, but reamain the doubt about the moving subjects... because if i wanna overexposed, my shutter need to be much slower.. i notice this ploblem taking some shots to a party where i didn't want to use flash, simply cause the flash was orrible and it covered the colored light of the place. So i wasn't able to take some good shot. i remember that i shooted that night at 3200/4000 iso, with the aperture at 1.4 with the 25 panaleica, and the shutter to 1/30... the results were just disturbing, like iso noise it self..
Tus videos son cojonudos Robin, gracias !!!
Hi Robin! Just bought my first Olympus OM-D and having found your channel only today I've learnt so much already, thank you for sharing all your knowledge. What software are you using to edit photos in this video?
I finally subscribed. Thanks
I had no idea about the scene mode - in fact I never used any scene mode except for those playing with colour during the first week of having my camera. I'll check how it works tonight at the event I organise in a dim area although my guess is it's not gonna so perfect for moving subjects if it takes several pictures.
I will shoot ISO 3200 all evening long at a music concert. Even though I shoot with prime lenses I generally don't shoot wide open, usually f2.8 and I still get a minimum of 1/125 shutter speed at +0.7 exposure comp. I like shooting Vintage 3 JPEG and Raw. Rarely I have to edit the JPEG other than a little bit of crop and light Highlight, Shadow and Brightness adjustments. Nice part is Olympus Workspace has all the presents if I have to do anything heavier with the RAW image.
Did you mean +0.7 EV compensation? +7 would mean you severely overexposed your shot... that can't be good!
@@robinwong didn't you know how incredible the dynamic range is on the E-M10, your missing out. Lol....editing now.
@@RobShootPhotos if Olympus was that good, full frame cameras would run out of business!
@@robinwong I just realized why I may have forgotten the 0., I was helping a friend learn how to the exposure comp on a Pentax Me. That dial has 1/4, 1/2, 1x, 2x, 4x. The exposure comp and shutter speeds are done in full stops. We take for granted the flexibility of digital cameras of a 1/3 of a stop until you shoot this film camera.
Oh...and your highest shutter speed is 1/1000.
I never thought about comparing electronic vs mechanical shutter in high iso, that was an interesting thing, I will try it out tonight!
Regarding don't underexpose in low light - I agree with you fully on that one, however often when it is an issue is on events and such that include people in the shot, then the primary limiting factor is your shutter speed. and with Olympus and low light, I tend to shoot wide open to reduce noise. So the only way to get a brighter exposure would be to up the iso even more, are you suggesting that an iso6k4 would end up being less noisy than same S and A settings in iso3k2? I will test that also tonight but it would be interesting to hear your take on this aspect of low light scenarios where iso is the only variable available to adjust exposure.
My practice is to properly expose, not intentionally over or underexpose a shot. I will slightly overexpose a shot, but will not bring up the ISO.
@@robinwong Then how do you up the exposure when you are already at the lowest acceptable shutter speed for your scene and wide open?
Like a live concert as you had as in one of your samples. You were at 1/320 so I guess you had some room to slow the shutter speed, but I often end up in very poorly lit events, where Im already bordering how low I can go due to movements on stage.
@@ipadista would be interesting to hear what you found out regarding very high ISO in such scenarios.
I even shoot with ISO 25600 and people still tell me: wow it is better than my smartphone :P, hahha, of course it is. So even with the highest ISO the images are good enough for some people (of course not for pros or for wedding photographs which should be printed big) . I have to try the starlight mode in the scenery ,thanks for the tip.
Another great video Robin
Thanks!
Thank you Robin
Love you dude! Thanks for expanding my knowledge of my OMD-10 mark-lll!
Thank you Mr.Wong
You are welcome!
Hi I 'm from Thailand and I subscribe you last minute pass . Thank you for good tip.
Thanks for subscribing!
Hi Robin, and greetings from the U.K, a Great useful video as always. You mentioned shooting with Starlight mode, (using 'Scene' on the dial)..my EM1 Mark 3 does not have this feature however, do you know if there is an alternative to using Starlight in the Mark 3, as when its cloudy, or shady conditions I'm getting quite grainy results , I'm using Auto ISO, on M, I tried using manual ISO but I have to take the shutter speed down and bung the ISO up to about 3200, this is not ideal if I'm trying to capture Birds in the Garden, a slower shutter speed causes blur and the higher ISO , (or Auto) also causes noise. I must add that I have only had the camera for about 2 weeks now. Many thanks, Colin
Thanks Robin for your videos and your suggestions very useful to use my M1 mark 2. A greeting from Italy and continues to abdicate useful suggestions. Thanks
Sorry for my bad English
No worries, thanks for the comment, appreciate the kind words! Do go out and shoot more!
Post-processing tip: Topaz Denoise AI. That software works wonders! It cleans the ISO noise whilst preserving the fine detail and sharpness! It´s by far the best noise reduction software that I have come across.
Hi Robin, You are making a great videos! I wondering about the camera you shot this video? what's gear you using to shoot this video particularly?
Whoah! The Haze!
Thanks for another entertaining and educational video Robin. Is the haze from the land clearing going on in Indonesia?
Yes, the haze is from Indonesia.
Un vídeo muy interesante. Muchas gracias.
Hi Robin. Any tips for indoor or Cafe shoot tips? Are m43 more that enough for indoor or night hang out camera?
Can you do a review of the Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro lens?
That is an old lens, but I think I can do an updated review of Olympus lenses using newer camera bodies in 2019 and 2020. Interesting idea!
Absolutely amazing lens! I love it! 👍
Thank your for the good instruction.
Glad I could share the tips!
As ever, a very useful video. Thanks, mate!
My pleasure to share the tips! Thanks!
Brilliant mate. Thanks for making this video 🙏
Tips ,Tips ,Tips.
Tip #8 Get a Fuji XT 10 for nights low light shooting And use any shutter you want.. Period💪 Shoot in JPEG.
Don't worrie about Pp...
Remember this is for low light at night with ambient light and don't take your tripod and drink a ☕of coffee before and affter finishing shooting...
Jajaja!!! Just kidding..
Good tips on every video of Robin 👀
I own the Oly 10 mkll following all this tips and i been doing good and better
Everytime...
Informative video, Robin. How about Low ISO? On a bright sunny day, do you use Low ISO or ISO 200, and why? Thanks in advance
Hi Robin - another excellent video.
The mechanical shutter tip is an interesting one - not something I’d noticed but I’m rarely shooting both shutter types of the same scene so really invaluable tip.
I didn’t even know about handheld starlight mode on my backup E-M5.2. Do you know why the features isn’t on E-M1.2? Do they figure those users would prefer to do it themselves in post from multiple exposures?
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the kind words. I have no idea why Olympus removed all Scene modes from their flagship cameras. Maybe they thought those aren't useful for advanced shooters.
Hi, thank you for the video, it´s pretty interesting. Did you know if you can use the automatic bracketing whit this camera or with olympus om-d e-m1 mark iii if you´re shooting at 50 or 80 mpx superphoto? And, did you know if exist some flashes that you can connect to the camera and control them with radiofrecuence like Canon 600 series does? I´m considering to change all my CAnon stuff and move to Olympus, but still need more info about it. Thank you, regards.
hello ROBIN, thanks so much for your videos and tips. I have a special request, can you make a video about how to use and set up the Olympus workspace software. the way to have your screen setup is perfect. please do this my friend. thank you
Hey Allan, sure thing! That is a great suggestion!
@@robinwong thanks so much man. your videos have greatly helped me with my awesome omd-em10 mark 2.
What program are you using at 6:43 "NEVER UNDEREXPOSE!" I don't recognize it. Thanks
Is it just me or does the single frame shot of the Lego Robin look sharper and more contrasty than the 'Starlight Mode' version?
When you take the noise away, you also take some of the sharpness. Hence in usual scenarios, I'd still keep the noise.
Hi Robin: Great suggestions in this video. I have noticed that you are using Capture One vs. Lightroom. I am considering making the move over to Capture One as well. Do you find that Capture One processes the Olympus RAW files better than Lightroom? Regards, Keith Pinn
Hello I have I gh4 and g9 but hey I really really like your videos !!👍🤙👌
Very useful for me 🙏
Thanks! Glad you find the tips useful. I guess they do benefit the overall Micro Four Thirds community.
great tipps 👍🏻
Thanks!
Great tips, thanks mate! :)
You are welcome!
2:29 this green effect im now wondering is this also appears when using "anti shock" too as dispite spending way too long on performing custom white balance, im getting this green effect when using "anti shock" on the E‑M10 Mark III... I will have to do a comparison test to see now.
Thank you, super helpful, you have my subscription
Hi Robin, do you have any tips/tricks re shooting small birds with the 40-150mm pro lens, M1 mark2? I’m finding my images are noisy. Atm uk is in heatwave so v bright conditions
For static scenes you can also use file stacking in Photoshop... Averaging out the sensor noise cleans it up a lot with several images
For static scenes, I won't even need that high of an ISO. I'd stay at ISO200, refer to my previous video on ISO200 hand-held challenge.