HELP! My Honda is Stuck in PARK! (Russian Hack Repair)
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- Uh oh, this 2003 Honda Accord is immobilized because it refuses to shift out of park!
The diagnosis shows an unexpected culprit which would be quite expensive to repair.
However, with a bit of creativity we get the Accord back on the road :)
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Enjoy!
Ivan
I enjoy watching you troubleshoot all the various options. Sometimes I think that is a more valuable lesson for all of us watching. Thank you.
this is a fix I would do on my OWN car as I'm not going to sue myself. Ivan, as pointed out in some of the other comments, you gotta be careful with stuff like this. I know YOU KNOW but you're such a great guy and very talented and conscientious - I'd hate to see you in a situation where some lawyer tears you to shreds on a liability claim. There HAS to be a way to wire in a relay off that brake pedal switch. Pull the ground signal off that and send it to the solenoid. You could DEFINITELY come up with something. That 'fix' is ok short term but I'd get that car back in your shop and do the 'relay workaround' . Your videos are awesome- I've learned so much- thank you for doing these.
As long as the customer acknowledges (on video) that this modification is "defeating" the safety features engineered into her car by Honda, I think that's a brilliant solution.
Cool diagnosis and repair Ivan!
I would prefer to rig up a relay to ground the solenoid when the brake pedal is pressed, so the car can't be put in gear unless the brake is pressed.
YEP!
Also a good solution!
I agree it would be a safer solution
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics It's also the safer and original method.
Yes. The positive side from the ignitionswitch an negative side over a relay from the brakeswitch. Simple and oldschool. No computer needed... ;)
Addendum: After thinking a little about...
I would add a second relay steared by the P/N contact to provide the ignition positive for the lock. So the lock will only energized when its necessary. This prevents it from overheat during long breaksessions while driving or just stop&go on traficjam ;)
Great Fix Ivan,Hell Yeah i would not mind that workaround "russian hack repair" as a customer.
I think you might want to check into the TP sensor. The TP Sensor voltage, KOEO (or idle), should be 0.49 Volts DC. The relative throttle position should be 0%. The relative throttle position is what is used, I believe, by the ECM for this shift interlock circuit. If it is above 0%, the shifter will not move out of park.
I believe there maybe a TSB or recall on this issue. If the "TP sensor" PID you were looking at is the relative TP sensor value, then it should be 0%, and not 9.80%. This is just a possibility and a guess, so please keep that in mind. I am pretty sure that it is the relative throttle position sensor value that is used, not the actual value, by the ECM for this shift interlock circuit, and it must be 0% or it will not shift out of park. Again, just a possibility and a guess. I don't have enough specific information in this case to be able to do much more than suggest a possibility and provide a guess.
Just wanted to add it would be helpful to ask if the TPS Sensor (Throttle Body) has been replaced recently. If so, then the ECM needs to be reset and a idle relearn done, which should put the relative TP sensor to 0%. The relative throttle position sensor value is a learned value.
Hmmm, no heart ❤️ for this comment. Wonder why...?
This was my first reaction. 9.8% for a minimum throttle setting sounds too high to meet the threshold for unlocking the solenoid.
@@schwartzenheimer1 Someone else gave that same answer & they got the heart
@@6996brandyl Great minds...thx for the reply.
What's the piece called that I could order to fix the problem of the car not coming out of the park position
Could it be the accelerator sensor was faulty and needed to read zero or near zero vs 9.8? You did not check for that in the video. Keep up the awesome work Ivan. Your practcal approach to diagnostics is great.
My thoughts also and does the ECM see the brake light switch ?
@@terryharvey4811 @8:40, the brake switch PID was working correctly. And according to the diagram, appears to be a simple single throw setup.
@@SerenoOunce Thanks, I missed that.
I had the same thought too as the pin on the bcm will not change even if the solonid side is grounded as it actavates a relay not feeds the solonid.
Also you read that throttle must not be pressed while looking up how the solonid functions.
Although some electronic tbs dont have a idle bypass and 10% would make sense possibly not raising a red flag.
my customers would ask if its possible to crazy glue the wires if it would cost less than soldering them LOL!!! Great Job Ivan !!!!The car Whisperer!!!
Perfect budget solution. BCM from eBay is 50$, it can be a good fix to. All together within diagnostic fee can fit in 250$ range. Off course if we have to fix such problem in our home country - Your fix is just a right approach. Love Your content. I see myself in the mids of 80s back in the USSR. Thank You.
60 Minutes aired a report titled "Out of Control" on November 23, 1986. Almost killed the Audi brand. That's where we got the shift interlock from. BTW: "Subsequent investigation revealed that 60 Minutes had not disclosed they had engineered the vehicle's behavior - fitting a canister of compressed air on the passenger-side floor, linked via a hose to a hole drilled into the transmission."
More common on GM when the gets stuck, I typically install a momentary switch on the steering cowl going to the solenoid. For a stuck key I mount it next to the IGN SW, or the opposite side if it's for the shift interlock.
Great, easy ,smart fix. Love to see this over the parts cannon...
Works for me, Ivan. The brake pedal requirement is a bit over the top to me. "Nanny state" law. The key lock shift is a very good requirement however. Great job again.
Very impressive diagnosis and fix.
Great job. I think my customers would go with the same decision. Even a used computer would be more than most people wouild want to spend.
Out of curiosity how much would a used/new computer cost roughly?
Put a couple of small mirrors on near the inside of the garage doors to check for rear lighting, saves a lot of trouble getting in and out jamming the brake pedal
Ivan that is great information you just passed along to me. Great fix and thanks for sharing all your videos and knowledge.you and wife stay safe and well Artie 😊
Well done for finding a good cheap solution to your customers needs .
Nice and to the point. Check the component, check wiring from end to end, condemn PCM, create solution based on customers needs. I’ve been using the m12 soldering iron for a while now because it’s easier to just pop a battery in but I still love my t100 soldering iron. That little guy is a beast.
Nice and easy fix. But just to maintain the safety aspect of its intended function you should have added the brake circuit into the equation. Probably with a relay would be the easiest. And using that same park/neural ground for the relay coil so it’s not clicking every time she presses the brake.
I had a similar problem but when i used the bypass lock the auto would change all over the place I tried this fix after trying many other things and it worked
Thanks Ivan you are a hero
Happy to help 😉
You may be the only shop in the tri state area actually looking out for the customer first. Nice work
I’d have done the same thing. Ok here’s that ThinkToolPros scan tool again. You’ve sold me. I’m getting one after I get back from vacation.
You will LOVE it! Very powerful tool! Snap-On Verus is nice but is getting a little outdated and takes forever to boot up haha and it cost 10x as much!
The basics--you never checked powers and grounds on the PCM. Also, is that normal for the TP sensor to read 9.8% ; you would think it would be zero. If the PCM thought the gas pedal was slightly depressed it may inhibit the shift release.
Yep, my idea exactly. I think the TP is slightly high. How is the idle?
@@tengelgeer That would depend on if it were a 4 cylinder, throttle cable, or V6, TAC module.
Agree. ECU's rarely fail. Garbage in, garbage out. The ECU still believes the throttle is depressed; check with the TPS disconnected.
Tps is deff high for norun. Itd still idle ok due to iac compensations
I wish we could clone you, bro.
Parts canon has another sad 😞.
The only thing I would have done differently is A) unplug the TPS to ensure 9.8% is for sure closed throttle, and B) make the solenoid depend on the brake switch instead of the park switch.
Very good work! But am, I don’t remember seeing you showing if that circuit control anything else, if not I would go one step further and pull the pcm, the customer is paying for the labor so doesn’t matter and check for any loose contacts, maybe you could repair the pcm. Just another step. All and all good job. God bless.
Never saw a Honda PCM fail like that before..And it is interesting that a PCM controlled function didn't set a code! For a customer, I like your solution. For my own car, I would've seen what it would take to eliminate the sol. or mechanically disconnect it.
If I were the customer that is exactly the way I would want done good choice you’re a good mechanic and keep the good work up
Well, that seems like an acceptable fix considering that cars were around for many, many decades without all these "safety switches". I have been around a long, long time and as far as I know we ain't lost a man yet because of a lack of a switch to prevent shifting out of park without having the brake pedal pressed.
Go Ivan! GO! Have a great evening!
Ivan, love your diagnostic videos! On this one, the root cause is very probably related to the TPS. You seemed to get locked in on the brake application, but I strongly suspect that the issue is that the driver is interpreting that the throttle is being depressed and thus not energizing the solenoid to allow shift out of Park. Could be that the throttle got excessive carbon build up, was serviced/cleaned, or the TPS was replaced. I would have tried a Throttle Body relearn/reset -- I bet that would clear up the problem without bypassing this safety-related mechanism that avoids inadvertent shifts out of park. If you don't have the tool to reset the throttle body, you can try the following:
Nice Hack and of course its a good fix instead of replacing the ICM, but I think maybe you should leave a little message by the ICM for the next guy, explaining what you did. Thats what I did when I did little electrical or software hacks on computers.
NPR is cheaper Got to love Russian repair. I'd tell customer this They know then your a honest guy.
Great video and thanks for sharing 👍I have a friend with one of these vehicles and it is having a similar issue. A lot of the comments in this thread recommend the use of relays which makes sense as another solution. After some thought I have come up with a way to use the park switch wire and also the brake switch as triggers for the relays. You will need 2 x four pin relays for this to work. On relay no 1 have the brake wire feed wire going to pin 86. Wire pin 85 and 30 to earth. Pin 87 is now a negative output when the brake switch is activated. On relay no 2 use the negative output from relay no 1 to pin 86. Feed wire from park switch to pin 85, pin 30 a fused power feed and pin 87 output to the lock out solenoid.
Doing good deeds to people! Good doing Ivan!
Great solution the mod is confined to the area of concern, no added components to go bad and it is locked when the car is off. It would depend on if the person was a lawyer or not if I did it for a customer.
Great work. Would want to ensure break was depressed before allowing the shifter out of park.
Great fix Ivan! I would certainly do that on my car or on a friend or family member's car, but I would personally be very hesitant to bypass any safety feature on a customer's car for liability as a lot of people are irresponsible and happy to sue. My concern would be a situation such as customer leaves kid in running car while going into gas station, kid puts car into gear and it runs into someone or something and causes serious injury or expensive damage, and customer sues mechanic for trying to help them and wins. Obviously not a terribly likely scenario, but I have heard of things like that happening and it's definitely something to keep in mind.
I fixed mine back in the day at my sons school parked in the bus lane! Got the tire iron out and bent it away for good👍🏻
Sometimes you have to make the repairs on the go if it’s your own car. 👍
Always impressed with your thinking outside the box...literally, lol!!!
The jumper repair looks like a good time for liquid tape insulation.
Great fix. I've learned Russian repair doesn't translate to hack job, it translates to spending several hundred dollars to fix this problem is ridiculous. Another great job.
Not to mention the countless complications that could arise from trying to find, install, and learn a new PCM.
Other than saftey concern i woulda removed the solenoid on my own car. Maybe it might be too many amps for that circuit is a concern i woulda had but maube not. Maybe could’ve wired it to the brakes switch somehow also but hey it works and that’s all that matters. I had a Lincoln Zephyr with the same problem and it turned out to be the bezel around the button making the button stick just removed the bezel and it worked fine after that. Thank you for your knowledge and be safe and 😃
Hmmm, several issues:
A similar tweak to a police car near here resulted in a couple pedestrians being mowed down.
Also the solenoid may draw more current than that output is capable of in the long run. You may have a pcm failure sooner or later.
Clever. Also the correct repair as the lady obviously is not flush with cash give the state of the rear headliner.
Lots of different opinions, Thanks for the video Ivan!
Great repair. No parts is always a good outcome.
If that isn't a personal vehicle looks like a liability issue was created. A good solution for safety, if it's not the TPS value causing the problem, would be to build a simple CMOS AND circuit with the brake switch input and P-N inputs. The output could be a simple transistor switch controlling the ground to the solenoid.
Awesome fix. Some best videos on RUclips.
hoping that computer didnt have a resistor internally to limit amp flow, you'll find out shortly if the sollenoid cooks lol. id have done the relay to the brake lights as someone else mentioned. also in your setup i'd clipped the sollenoid ground wire to the pcm just to isolate that from the shift ind switch just in case
My girl is going nutts 🤣😁😂
ive been watching these all day ✊
Is there a way you could have tested if the interlock would have worked with a lower TPS reading? What if the TPS sensor was out of calibration and needed to read lower for the interlock to work?
Seems a perfect fix and most people would probably choose that repair.
That didn’t look like a Russian fix to me. The ones I worked with would have used the roll up pin from sardine can and crammed it into the pcm connector. 😜🤣🤣
Very good man very thoroughly diagnosed! I saw you at a junk yard or a shop diagnosing
A very tough diagnosis but you figure it out .
Wiring diagram are confusing to me.
Is 9.80% normal for the TPS at rest for this model of car?
Just typing aloud as I don't know the answer to that question. Maybe the PCM is not firing the shift interlock because it thinks 9.80% TPS is not the resting point(?) and as you point out TPS position is a criteria here. And following from that - is a TPS relearn possible?
Agreed, what is the threshold the PCM is using to determine off throttle?
Yes correct. I found a TSB for 03-04 Accords where the shifter is stuck in park after throttle body replacement. You have to do a throttle relearn for the PCM to allow the shift lock solenoid to open.
TSB SN040705 dated July 2004. I found on Alldata. Relative throttle position must read 0% stated in TSB with 0.49 volts on the TPS.
@@ecaparts Good sleuthing :)
Interesting the Shift Interlock PID on the scanner shows as Low though even though there's batt+ voltage on the pin at the PCM (which we then want the PCM to ground). But I've seen what seems like reverse logic states on interpreted data like that in my line of work (not cars) all too often. Maybe it reads High when it fires the solenoid (?).
Would need to see a known good!
I'm sure Ivan will drift by and point out the obvious flaw in our thought process though. All good, it's like playing puzzle games for me :)
@@chillybrit2334 You have to consider that this is an older vehicle (pre-CAN bus) so I try not overthink the PIDs too much. The criteria to activate the SLS hasn’t been met due to the high throttle % so maybe the PID just says ‘low’.
Ivan can fix anything.
Heads up Dude, This fix might be a serious liability issue!
The reason that the shift-brake interlock was created was because of sudden acceleration syndrome. In as much as I haven't seen a fuel injected car without one, they may be mandated by law. Occasionally computer controlled cars would surge when placed in gear and the car would leap forward. This was a notable defect in Audis and police cars back in the late 1980s and people were actually killed. Plus it made for some funny videos of cop cars lurching through McDonalds restaurants.
The more correct fix would be to bypass the computer and install a relay on the brake light circuit that would send a ground to the shifter solenoid. (I was kind of distracted and might be wrong, but if you need a positive feed to the shift solenoid.. you don't even need the relay.)
In any case if the car never surges or the driver is careful, your fix is fine... but if the car does surge forward without the driver's foot on the brake and the car runs over someone, you are the guy who disabled the system... on video... and you might be faced with an expensive liability issue.
So... maybe a written waiver might help, but personally I might show a customer how and where to make the solder joints you did, but I don't think I'd do it for them myself.
Ivan, I don't want to be a downer, and I've done my fair share of kluges on my own cars over many years, but when it comes to working on other people's cars I usually don't disable safety features. I realize that I'm a dinosaur when it comes to modern tech, and I learn a lot from your videos, but people haven't changed since my day, and just because you did them a favor, doesn't mean they won't blame you when there's someone squished under their car or they gave a new meaning to the term "drive through".
And yes I know that your customer will always remember to depress the break before putting the car in gear... but if I might tell a story... when I was 17 and I got my first $1.00 car, I decided not to fix the park/neutral start safety switch, because I would surely never start my own car in drive or reverse... Note it was a 425 4bbl with 365 HP. My dad rather adamantly counseled me in the error of my ways while I was extracting my car from he remains of what was apparently his favorite shrub. And he even kindly let me get out from under my dashboard once I had properly adjusted the stupid slide switch under the steering column.. And he eventually forgave me when the shrub grew back... do you know how long it takes a common stupid ornamental shrub to grow back? I do.
Again, thanks for the great vids.
Well said. Also I wish my first car cost a $1.00! HA,ha,ha!
I've got two cars in my garage right now that don't have and never had any sort of brake pedal interlock, both with fuel injection (mid 80s Jags) That Honda has essentially three locks from the factory; brake, throttle position, and if that isn't enough, a push button on the selector. You can't knock it into gear accidently without pushing the button, and you still have the park/neutral interlock for starting the car. How many damn interlocks do you need?
The brake pedal interlock is a nanny state requirement. As long as the customer acknowledges the deletion and preferably signs off on it, no harm done.
I probably would have checked the TPS and see if that idle reading was normal. Looks high to me. If that proved to be faulty, I'd try to correct that. If that can't be fixed, then offer the customer Ivan's solution. Ivan's solution saves the customer money as long as the customer's ok with the mod.
@@topgun52 I would advocate that everyone start out with a $1.00 car and a tool box. It helps to have a dad who was a mechanic. It makes for a great crash course in auto mechanics and if you are really determined and industrious and don't run out of money for parts, you might even wind up with a car to drive. I've been driving since 1976 and I've never paid more than $500.00 for a personal car. On the other hand my current $500.00 car needs over $600.00 in OEM front end parts... even if I do the work. So even cheap cars don't stay that way.
@@jonalowe Agreed.. and yes some of those mid 1980's Jags were included in those cars with sudden acceleration syndrome. Obviously sudden acceleration was rare in pretty much all cars which were susceptible to it. I've only been in one car that did it. In as much as it was a Ford Tempo, flooring itself was more curious than dangerous.
But yes as I said, I whole heartedly agree, we do live in a nanny state which assumes we are too stupid to survive without some safety system to protect us from ourselves.
Last month, my brake line blew out when I tried to stop for a pedestrian that just stepped in front of my car... With the benefit of a dual master cylinder, my car stopped within an inch of crushing the moron. Wanna bet that if my Crown Vic squished the fool, his survivors would be suing me now? And imagine if someone had installed a single master cylinder system into the car, how much that would wind up costing him if anyone discovered what he did?
To be honest, I'm fine with single master cylinder brakes, they work great, but oddly enough... I'm kind of happy my car had a duel system because, even if I hit the emergency brake it might not have been in time to keep that pedestrian from wedging himself under my car.
Most redundant safety systems seem pretty stupid, until they don't.
Nice fix, maybe could have installed a relay that controls the jumper wire, so it only jumps the ground signal when in park and the brake is pressed.
l like those little soldering irons , I keep mine at 400 f
That's a sweet fix Ivan. Thanks!
I was thinking if the brake pedal was ground side switched, you could jump to that. But your way works just as good.
Great Fix! I would have them sign a liability waiver to protect yourself from a possible Lawsuit in case of some sort of accident. Basically you have bypassed a manufacturer safety device.
I love it!!...the lock still works!!👍👍😎
You did the right thing Иван, that lady has to have just a tiny bit of common sense and she'll be golden.
I've got an Accord EU cl7 too and guess what, my automatic climate control is monitored by the ECU as well. Most reliable car ever though.
I like how you prefer the Craftsman clamp meter.
I wish I could find one like that.
Yeah I think they discontinued those? :(
Throttle position sensor is the problem. Cleaning the throttle body might fix it and it probably needs it anyway.
I'm really inclined to believe the PCM is not allowing the solenoid to release because of the throttle position reading. I've always seen throttle position readings of less than 5% at idle on all vehicles with cable-controlled throttle valves. I don't know what Honda's threshold is, but I don't think 9.8% is ideal.
Good point. I'll have to check on that.
My customers would change the brake switch four times and even try a gas cap for good measure before bringing it to me ! 🤣
And then tell you " Don't charge me much. I've already spent a ton of money on it."
Ivan, Hate to be critical, but there is a place for Russian repair, and then a place for real repair. Those safety interlocks are there for a reason, to stop someone from getting run over accidently. If the owner accidently runs someone over, because of your repair, you will be liable. I understand you want to save the customer money, but sometimes that may not be best way to go. Just my two cents.
Yeah, I hope he reads these responses and re-do it using the brake pedal as the switch or replacing the PCM
No way would I modify a safety feature on a car. Since you offer automotive repair services, you are considered a professional, legally speaking. Even if the owner is aware and agrees with what you did, if they loan the car to someone else or sell the car, and some kind of accident happens.... Well, that opens you up to a whole lot of liability issues. I'm not a lawyer, and this is not legal advice, but my son just graduated law school and we discuss a lot of cases in the news and law theory. I'm telling all mechanics out there, DON'T modify a safety system on a car.
Ivan that is a safety deal. You might have a problem if the old gal gets in to a accident. Big time law suite.
first time viewer Good diag and outcome, did you check for codes after your fix? ( to ensure pcm is happy).
Sounds good ..i would not care if the pcm is control or not .. Many years ago when i worked at a power generation company.. We could add values to the make functions work as we wanted . I never seen this ability on these systems . .
Someone let Scotty Kilmer know that a Honda somewhere on earth is broken. ;)
Up next, “Only stupid people buy Hondas.”
lol
Excellent job Ivan.
Did you check if there are multiple actuators on the brake pedal switch? My cars have 2 or 3 switches built into the one brake pedal switch. I am very sure that PART of the brake pedal switch is bad. That is why the data pid did not change. Get your head under there and check it!!
Hook it up so you have to be honking the horn to shift out of park.
Wouldn't that be classic! LoL 😂😆
Did think of that "available" switch!
And the headlamps on high beam.
😂 classic
So, you push the scissors down, and it comes out of park --- Said like just a normal thing... Love this channel...
Hey Ivan -- a comment on the electrical aspect of this repair (as usual from this Dept :-) ): Supposing that the Transmission Range Switch can handle the ON current of the solenoid long term (though that's not a given), a problem with using that switch to turn the solenoid on and off is that during the On-to-Off transition, the solenoid coil will produce a reverse voltage spike as the solenoid's magnetic field collapses. (aka "flyback" pulse etc. I'm pretty sure you're familiar with that already.) The PCM interlock control output that originally switched that solenoid almost certainly has a diode to short that spike. But the two inputs that the solenoid is now connected to (ATP-P and ATPP) lack that diode. They probably have some input protection, but not with the current carrying capacity normally used for absorbing an inductor flyback pulse. This might or might not cause issues in this case, but something to consider when changing the control element for an inductive load. For what it's worth, other commenters suggested wiring the Trans Range Switch to a relay to drive the solenoid. This would reduce the current through the Range Switch, which is good, but the relay coil is also an inductive load, so the same consideration applies there.
Separately, the concern over defeating part of the safety logic argues in favor of both the brake pedal and the Range Switch being required for turning on the solenoid. That could be accomplished by using two small relays: One controlled by the brake pedal (with flyback-pulse-shorting diode) and another by the Trans Range Switch (again with diode). Then wire the contacts of the relays in series, so that both must be ON in order to deliver ground-side path to the solenoid.
But all that said... I'm betting on the 9.8% throttle position as a likely culprit :-).
Excellent comment, very detailed explanation! Love the critical thinking. I will have to follow up with these points 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Hey, just a small effort on my part compared to the effort and discussion you put into these videos for us!
Awesome video! Do yourself a favor put a a/c in one of your windows.I know! It makes for a much more pleasant day! Add one dollar to labor rate in summer 😎 And for the na Sayer's he knows his customers no kids in car if you know what I mean so it's safe!
Normally the break pedal has two states. One for the lights and one for the solinoid. Also the throttle need to be within idle spec. So 10% seems a bit high. But I think the issue is the switch on the break pedal. 2nd circuit on the switch to be precise
There is no second switch...see wiring diagram :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yeah I thought that was strange to. How does it know then how hard your pressing the break for the ABS system to work like intended? On both the Volvos and the German Audis I know they have a light part a solinoid activation part and those have to be inline or in sync to not make the dashboard a Christmas tree. And on top of that they got a break pedal position sensor that reads the procentage on the pedal pressed down.
I'm my mind I think the computer does not see all the criteria it needs in order to energize the solinoid. As the computer says Low on the output it's not seeing all the vitals needed.
As for diagnosis I would start with looking if the break switch is a 2wire or 4wire switch. And then I would try unhooking the accelerator pedal. 10% idle seems allot. Every car is different but that seems very high to me. 1 to 4ish I would guess is normal.
Just some thoughts on the whole thing. You do with them as you wish :)
If you work on a dodge charger, magnum, or chrysler 300 with this problem it could be a broken hook inside the console that breaks off and the cable that is supposed to be attached can't do it's job. That plastic part is commonly referred to as a "pink thingy". utube videos abound on the fix and parts are availble on ebay.
I had this happen , it was my break light switch. On my maxima ordered a aftermarket replacement from rockauto. A month lather the break light switch bumper broke in pieces. So break light we’re always on. Even when the car was off.
Temp Solution was double stick tape and a penny untill I got the new break bumper installed.
Great hack solution
Don't break your brakes!
Always enjoy this channel. But sometimes, it remind me of a friend of mine... Ask him what time it was and he tell you how to build a watch..
Good fix. I can't comprehend the thinking behind this kind of crap. The PCM fails to turn on one circuit. You can't drive your car. That'll be $2000. Bullshit. You the man Ivan.
Hey Ivan from Down Under ;) NPR that's sure what I'd do on my car, not that I have to put my foot on the brake to put it in gear though..
The car in my profile pic has 1 of your favorite engines in it..
On my own car I probably would. On a paying customer's car probably not mostly because of potential legal and liability issues. I do think that was an awesome solution.
Pretty sure it's not the computer it's the tps. I just had that same problem in my shop yesterday 0.3 - 0.35v is a sweet spot. Take the voltage reading at TPS.
Will do!
Is there any chance the car could be thrown into reverse while moving in drive? Just curious, but great work either way!
That what I'd do anyway to save money. As in my suburban, it's bypassed, as the bcm is bad. I did like you did. It shifts without break pedal, stays locked when key out. So not bad deal unless client wants new bcm, nice video!!!
Btw, I sent you email other day. Wanted to let ya know that 😀
Thanks Josh! I don't think I got your email...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics i sent it to ivan@pinehollowdiagnostics.com
The 1980's Audi 5000 is the first thing that comes to mind.... I would have put a relay off the brake pedal so that you have to press the brake pedal to release the shifter.
Did I notice steel toes lol
Are you certain that the brake switch only has one set of contacts? Is that throttle position low enough to allow the PCM to unlock the solenoid. They use the brake and the throttle position to prevent going from park with the engine revving too high. Maybe it needs to see less than 5%?
And THAT"S the way we keep the particle accelerator running back in the motherland !!!!!
xD
Hello ,This is for everybody who has a Honda or Acura.The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) has to be good and /or in proper adjustment or the computer may or may not allow it to shift out of Park.
It’s an ‘03 Honda Accord. You can find a PCM for $80 on EBay. You could Pick and Pull one even cheaper. I’d insist on a replacement but I still think your way would be fine if it was my personal car.
Could it be the tps be reading higher than "safe" limit or value and blocking out the parking lock/shift lock
Yeah, 10% does seem a bit high. It's an AND logic gate in the PCM. Perhaps it's looking for a lower value.
My thought too. Why is TPS 9.8% at rest instead of zero?
@@rustlebruxz0013 one would think a rest point would be 0-3%
I think I would have ran a ground to the brake pedal switch so the brake would still work
Guess what the customer will go for is what makes me laugh so hard
I had this problem in my 05 Honda Accord.. however my brake lights worked. So it wasn’t the brake switch. I had to take the knob off the shifter and was able to push down on the actual shifter (minus the knob) and it worked fine. (Summary it was the knob button that wasn’t pushing down on the piece that puts it into gear)
If you have been labscoping long enough to know about the easter egg that turns a snapon vantage pro or modis into an etch a sketch...you probably pawned your parts cannon to buy one 😁😉😎