Wooden Boat Building, Toe Rails and Bungs, S2-E50
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- In this episode (S2-E50) of the Art of Boat Building. Boat Builder, Bob Emser continues to work on the covering boards for the Joel White designed Haven 12 1/2. He explains wood cupping, and shows some tips for cleaning drips of varnish. We see the creating of wood plugs called bungs and how to install them. In addition the toe rails are installed in the boat.
“If you’re going to make it, make it beautiful.”
Bob Emser
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Carvel Planking Playlist:
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• Season 2 - Haven 12 1/2
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PBS should pick this show up. World Class.
Another cool trick is to roll a bur on the razor blade edge and use it like a cabinet scraper. I use the round shaft of a Phillips screw driver to round the bur. Works great and gets the job done a lot faster.
You just put the bung in to finish off another great installment of the Art of Boat Building. Thanks for sharing.
I ascribe to the traditional method of scrabbling around on the floor to pick up my bungs, ha, ha. I wish I was over there, the Wooden Boat show always looks a terrific festival.
I have put in hundreds of bungs on my boat and I learned something from your video. Wish I had seen it sooner. Thanks.
Thanks Mike!
It was the most satisfying video of my weekend.. Thanks Bob!
That tape tip with the bungs is one of those things that is brilliant, and oh so obvious once you see it! Thank you!
Excellent tip on removing the finish drips, these inevitable eyesores are most frustrating.
Also what prevents cupping more than any thing else is to fasten the board with the crown up! that prevents cupping more than anything. If you attach the board with the crown down the board will cup very quickly while being exposed to the elements. but if its fasten with the crown up it will not cup nearly as fast. Btw smart choice with the glue for the bungs instead of epoxy like you said, if you have to remove them later its much easier.. The only way to go. LOOKs great Bob. Really does.
Thanks Bob. Your attention to detail is unmatched!
What a beautiful boat. I look forward to seeing her sail.
Awesome as always sir
So wish I could make it to the boat show. I don't have a reliable vehicle for a drive from central Kentucky of the funds for gasoline to make a drive that far and back plus boarding and food. Hopefully you will be able to get enough footage for a video or two to share with us viewers who can't make the trip.
Excellent as usual!
Just a thought for when you or others make bungs on a drill press. Clamp a fence on the drill press table for your work piece to sit against. That will keep the work piece from spinning around if the cutter fetches up, and it will if you make enough bungs, and 9 times out of 10 when it does your work piece will smack your hands. Your boat is looking amazing! And thank you for the videos.
I've been enjoying this series very much!
Cupping doesn't have to do with the moisture leaving one side more than than other nearly as much as the wood drying with a preference for shrinkage perpendicular to the tree growth (tangential to the growth rings) if you look at a cross section of the log. It's the reason a log will split radially from the edge to the center if you leave a full log to just dry on its' own.
Absolutely. The other thing is that seasoning will not stop it if the moisture level “in use” is different to the moisture level in the stored board.
I loved the tips and lessons, your videos are very didactic. I really liked the 4-tip tool tip, when I buy mine I'll remember that.
Another great video, learned a few things that will help me on my next varnish job.
Beautiful, Bob! Amazing work! 😃
The boat is looking amazing!!!
Oh, and thanks a lot for all the tips! Some priceless tips in there!!!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Beautiful stuff mate.
Thanks.
Oh how many times I sanded those drips. Great tip to use a razor blade instead.
An incredibly inspiring presentation. You are truly a valuable person.
Thank you Bob for another fine video in this build. Wish I could make it to the Mystic boat show but that would be a long trip from here in Oregon. The boat is looking very nice and your attention to the details shows in every episode. Take care and have a great weekend.
Wow! Nice
On keeping your plugs oriented. Draw a silver pencil line across them, before you cut them out. Then you will always know the grain.
That helps because you can put a lot more glue on the bungs as you can glue them all around and not have to worry which way the grain is as you can see the line.
Bob, wow she is looking very nice, can't wait until you get to casting the bronze parts. How many castings are you planning on?
Yes, I’m looking forward to the castings as well.
Sooo good.
Can’t wait to see how you make your mast :-) Hope you’ll have it soon! Your boat looks great 👍
Looks great, as usual. cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.
I stumbled across your videos and have watched about 8 of them back to back now. Some fantastic skills and knowledge you have and put into a video that we can all understand. And I've definitely learnt a few things which I was unsure about on how to do on my project. Thank you for your great video
Hi Robbie,
I’m so happy you’re enjoying the video. What project are you working on?
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I have a Dolphin 20 Cabin Cruser she has a wooden top and a fiberglass bottom. I Believe she maybe the last one left. Unfortunately most of the top is rotten and beyond saving. Plybourd construction. The Hull however is in very good condition 👌 She is my first ever boat project. And videos like yours are a massive help. I would love to see a video on joining two bits of marine plybourd together to make it longer
Looking lovely as it comes together. I would have thought you want the bung grain to cross the cover board, so any expanding bung presses along the grain instead of across it. That would reduce the splitting of cover boards from an expanded bung that got wet. That would seem more important than invisible bungs.
Why are you not placing a bedding compound under the covering boards? What's to keep moisture (rot) from getting under the covering boards?
I did. Just negligible mention it. I’ll do a recap in a future video and perhaps do a post.
Thanks!
Amazing work. I notice you did not put any sealant / bedding compound down before securing the boards. Will there not be water intrusion along the inboard and outboard edges?
I did use sealant between the coverbroad and the comings. Forgot to mention it.
Thanks for your question.
A good episode. It looks like you have your own Art of Boat Building Watch. Is that new or something i have'nt noticed before?
Hi Tim,
I’ve be wearing the watch for about a year. I’ll be raffling one off at the Wooden Boat Show this month.
Thanks for watching ( no pun intended)
Cheers,
Bob
Some time ago I read that the pores in a coat of finish were larger that a water molecule, and moisture would be taken in and released over the course of a year. Do you think that multiple coats would stop this process, and if so, how many coats would be needed for a complete seal? Would this also vary with the type of finish used?
For looks and asthetics grain direction does matter on varnished surfaces if you are doing below waterline same thing direction of grain because of expansion and contraction rates
I'm interested in the drill bit you're (and have been) using, it has something like a cone in it to make room for the cap of the screw to fit in. Can you tell me anything about it? What is it called?
Would a sealant like sikaflex be overkill for setting the bungs?
Anyone going up to Mystic CT event from NYC? Can also rendezvous at a commuter rail stop. Would greatly appreciate a lift. Fully vaxxed. Might cycle if the weather cooperates. Cheers.
Yes, the a sealant would be overkill and it would not sand well like glue does.
Hope to see you at the show.
Did you put any sealant between the cover bd and the combing?
Yes,
Why glue the bungs to the screws instead of just the sides for a wood to wood bond?
Hey Bob. Gland to see another installment. I have a question, that I’m sure you’ve answered before: Why do you use a manual screwdriver rather than a power screwdriver to turn in screws?
Hi Elizabeth,
The main reason is to feel the tension of how tight the screw is in. With a power driver it’s very easy to over tighten that could result in the board splitting.
Thanks for watching!
Thank You, Bob. I figured it was something like that. I love you and your videos. Brings me back to my boating days with my Dad. Trust me, I will keep watching!
Hi Bob. The boat looks fantastic. Are you ok? Haven't seen a vid for a few weeks.
Doing fine. Video out next Saturday. Been occupied with the Wooden Boat Show with pre and post and travel. Getting the Haven off the trailer today.
Thanks for asking!
Cheers,
Bob
I don’t understand the logic behind “always tighten two holes” on Jacobs chuck? The key (lever) with bevel cogs is just a means to tighten the collar to drive the jaws (incline plane) tighter into the sleeve and increase force on the tool/bit. It should not matter what hole you use. Love your channel BTW!
No sealant on the boards?
Yes, I did use sealant. Just neglected to mention it.
Cheers!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks! BTW, one of your best episodes.
Bob, Love the videos, notice you are on your knees quite a bit which is good but please do us both a favor and buy a good pair of knee pads, the ones like carpet installers wear. It' ll favor you by being able to continue to kneel on your natural knees. It'll favor me in that i'LL be able to watch the videos without grimacing every time i see you kneel on a boat part.