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EthAnswers Blade Drift Myths #2 Why Fences Don't Work On Bandsaws
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2018
- After hearing the same question on what makes the Little Ripper different than a fence Ethan decided to do an in-depth video on why fences really don't work on bandsaws. He shows how fences are the root cause of blade drift and what makes them so challenging to setup and use.
Enjoy this video!
Little Ripper - stockroomsuppl...
As an ASE Master since 78, this is no different than a machining procedure. It is knowledge of machine set-up, math and understand how materials react. Excellent job of explaining, showing and proving why things work the way you would plan for.
Thanks.
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made ruclips.net/user/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
To get rid of that warp, make a sled, shim the board on the sled so it doesn’t rock, and run it through the planer on the sled. You’ll get a flat side. It doesn’t solve the stress issue, but it does mean you don’t need a super-wide jointer.
Yep do this all the time. Problem is, it doesn't sell Little rippers. SPONSORED VIDEO
Thanks...same that I was thinking. As "The Explororapher" commented, it seemed like either intentionally deceitful or impressively uninformed comment.
I like your sincerity. Your nephews are lucky to have an uncle inspiring them and also looking out for them
Smart young man. You are easy to understand and well spoken. You sold me on the concept. The second video brought it home and I get it now. Funny, but I have had a band saw for about 25 years and just today, I got the manual out to see how to set it up properly! Figured a little "book learning" was needed. ha! Anyway, thanks for taking time to make a video that was useful.
You can solve the problem of the stress by using a short bandsaw fence. I think the fence on your saw will move back. Try setting it so the end of the fence is at the kerf of the blade. Now as you push it through, the wood can flex without pushing against the fence. Also works good with a table saw too.
THANK YOU!!! THAT IS A GREAT POINT!
That is definitely an option! Still need to make sure your board is face jointed and it does become much more difficult to hold against the fence as you are pushing you board through. The last 1" is especially hard to hold.
Exactly my point during watching the video
Yes, great comment. Also, if you free float the board using a grip instead of a fence, you can compensate for twist to some degree. I did that with my own version of the Little Ripper / Accu-Slice about 30 years ago. However, there is still no substitute that I have ever seen for a properly jointed board-- whether using a tablesaw, bandsaw, handsaw or other means.
Although you cannot always joint everything brought to the bandsaw, it becomes a matter of where you do the squaring-up (i.e. whether you do it on the jointer and tablesaw for boards and dimensional lumber, or on the bandsaw for logs or whatever arbitrary form and shapes).
Exactly what I was about to type in.
Ethan this is another excellent video. The info about each plank having built-in stress or tension was enlightening!! Keep these video coming! I just bought a used 14” saw that I intend to eventually do some ripping on. Thanks 🙏 Rich in Spokane, Washington USA
Respectful decent gentleman.. I love watching your vedios.. And of course people can argue or disagree with each others but really no need to be rude and say nasty things.. Keep the good job up my man and big cheers from 🇰🇼 Kuwait 👍🏼
@6:50 - same as on a table saw. With a sub fence, that only supports the workpiece up to the leading edge of the blade.
It's almost as if what we really need is a contraption that can PLANE the twist out of any size board by HAND. Some sort of - and bear with me as I coin a new term - "handplane" that can make a board straight so you can run it against the fence without any problems... Oh well, a man can dream. Thank you for introducing me to the Little Ripper! I don't know how I, or anyone for the last several thousand years ever lived without it!
Excellent demonstration of wood stress and how it would push on a fence to cause blade twisting and binding. I am convinced!!!
Hey, just a shout out to say thanks. I, Like most folks don't mind buying a piece of equipment that will do the job I want it to achieve, but there's nothing more frustrating than to kick out some money on something that doesn't do what it's suppose to do, or like you have pointed out in two of your videos I have watched. For the most part I bought my Band Saw to do resaw work, So the video you did on guides was very helpful, not to say I won't get around to putting some very good guides on my saw, but not for the express purpose of resawing. Now for this video on fences, again, another great piece on showing and basically debunking the use of a fence for resawing. Thanks.
As a pro woodworker, in my experience the most common reason for fences not working on a bandsaw is that one side of the blade often cuts better than the other. This leads to a wandering cut. For that reason, most folks recommend a guide that comes to a vertical edge, aligned with the front of the blade.
I've seen Little Ripper demos and b'golly, the sucker works. At least with a pretty fresh blade.
Very informative. Having the stock locked into a sliding carriage seems safer than just pushing the stock, especially with wider boards.
I'm not exactly a precision craftswoman but it's great to have that capability when you need it. I dont have a bandsaw and use an old Triton table saw with a 9 inch circular saw underneath it to break down lengths of timber to the widths I need. Crude as it is it was life changing when I discovered all that it can do. However, when using the fence to rip longer lengths of hardwood (the Aussie kind that is around 900kg per cubic metre ), I often end up with a skewed edge which I think has a lot to do with what you are describing about tension in the wood. I solve the problem with a hand plane and mostly that's sufficient to complete the task at hand but I can see that down the track I'm going to want to do better. Great video with straightforward explanation.
Great video, great produce. I have used my own guided jig version for about 30 years. Using a free floating hold or other such systems like the Accu-Slice and Little Ripper have been essential in one form or another at sawmills for centuries. However, like the Little Ripper, the grips do NOT hold the board to zero twist, flex or curve, as that would require holding 8 opposing corners plus a center pivot VERY tightly. It typically takes a planer over 75 LBS per square inch to do this in just 2 dimensions, which is a lot more than is possible with simple claws and grips. Instead, the system creates a relative float based on the point at which the blade meets the board, at which point the cut side of the board is free to float away from the blade and fence based on release of internal stresses and other factors. That's how it works.
Thanks for saying this. I was really trying to figure out how a board with that much tension is going to be held from twisting and bowing by two little spring loaded teeth.
Noone should offend you Eth. You have made a great point on your video about the fence problems.
This is why my fence has a piece of bar stock mounted to it parallel to the blade. The bar stock just helps keep the board oriented, the operator keeps the board tracking properly. Takes some practice, but it works and costs less than a good beer.
So with the little ripper you can essentially create a straight face when you don't have a jointer big enough to handle more than 6" or 8"? That's definitely one of the cooler things I've seen recently. Good job explaining blade drift.
I will never look at a piece of wood the same way again. Informative and well explained. Thanks.
Happy to hear you enjoyed the video!
I just viewed your video, and have to thank you the clear explanation of drift… I have a much greater understanding of wood drift at the bandsaw. Thanks again 👍
that's a great solution similar to a jig you might use in a table saw to get a straight cut. That said, it's not too hard to get a flat surface board up to 13 inches by using your planer with a sled of some sort. Enjoyed the video very much, I have mega drift so I needed this. I ruined a nice board of spalted birch. Oh well, it's a learning experience. Thanks for the video, I learned lots.
The points in this video sound valid...but, in my experience with drift, it was due to the the blade, no matter how much I messed with, it not being parallel to the fence. Once I made a wood fence add-on which I used with a packer one end to 'unsquare' the fence but parallel it to where the blade wanted to cut, works like a dream, and is a joy to use.
That video was excellent one of the best videos explaining stress on a band
You have made a believer out of me!! Very good info and helps me understand the movement of wood when cut. Not just on a band saw but any time wood is cut!
Interesting video. On your point about "most guys don't have a jointer bigger than 8" wide" well I would agree, but that's not a problem for me as I have a set of winding sticks and good old number 5 1/2 jack plane. Takes a little bit of time and practice, but a handplane / winding sticks and a few minutes of elbow grease and you have taken out any bow / cup / twist from the board so it will ride the fence without rocking. Look up Paul Sellers or Rob Cosman's videos if you want to learn the process! Little ripper looks like a nice piece of kit though, I guess you could actually use that to slice off the outer face of a board that's really twisted so you have less work to do with your hand plane or jointer to get one face flat and smooth! What if you have to work on a piece that's 8 ft long for a dining table, isn't the little ripper limited to short pieces of lumber ?
Once you get about 10 inches in take a section of old band saw blade and clamp it in between the two pieces with mini c clamps creating a gap the same size as the blade.
Im so glad I found this video, but now Im messed up because I was planning on resawing some 1"x12"x20' lengths into veneers using a bandsaw, so what is my best option if I shouldnt use a fence?
Thank you very much
I am now interested in the little ripper
WOW! What a great video and really straight-forward as to the benefits of a ripping system. Definitely, a must-have tool! Thank you!
Hmmm. Makes me think that some of the "Oh! Gee! Wow!" bandsaw videos might have required several takes with several boards to demonstrate how "There's nothing to it!" Good video!
Love this channel, you give a lot of good advice. Thank you very much for making this knowledge available👌😎👍
Darn and I just bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw.w fence .anyway looks like I need a Little Ripper now!! Thanks for the video!
Hey Ethan, thanks so much for the tutorial! Very well explained and new info for me. Appreciated!
So does the pin roller mitigate the problem on the fence? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Hi, thanks very much for your videos and explanations. Where can I buy the jig? Amazing video.....
I'm going to have to look into one of these!!
I have seen tall fences that only touch the wood at the blade, not before and after. This allows for the warp to not affect the cut. It takes a steady hand but can be done a lot cheaper.
watching the top of the board where the blade is actively making the cut it seemed pretty obvious that the blade was not tracking true especially due to the stop start you can clearly see a jag in the cut line, the little ripper also seems to wobble all over even with it in the locked position on the wood, lastly you never put the cut board back against the fence to show how the twist had been removed from the board after using the little ripper
Nice videos...fine example of how to show people cool things. And also setting a good example for your nephew and all other novice future woodworkers.
Thanks for watching!
This is the first time I have seen this device, (I watched the first video first), and I can see where the cut isn't binding, but the board is still twisted. How does one solve that problem? Isn't recutting with a bandsaw intended to give you a flat cut and remove those curves and twists?
I know that a planer will smooth a surface of a board that is twisted providing the board is properly shimmed until a flat edge on the opposite side is established.
I just got a 9 in Central Machine bandsaw yesterday, and I am experiencing "blade drift" which always drifts to the left on every piece of wood that I resaw. I have to set my "fence" which is a 2 x 4 with quick clamps for now, at approximately 10 degrees to the left of square to compensate for the drift.
Perhaps my blade is too far forward? I try to keep the entire blade center of the wheel, but the blade sits ahead of the thrust bearing about 1/16th of an inch, so there is a little movement I can see with the blade when I make a pass. I have been watching videos like crazy the last 2 days hoping to "tune" this thing to where it will perform with thicker resaw work without it drifting into a circle practically.
I do not try and slice a thin board from such wood, you will then joint and plane down to a too thin flimsy twisted waste. Most of the well dried pieces will slice very nicely though avoid knots and other stressed areas if possible.
Maybe I've just been lucky but I tuned my bandsaw as Alex Snodgrass recommends in his video and have the blade tracking with the gullet in the center of the wheel and I've never had a problem. To be fair, I don't do that much of this thin cutting on my bandsaw and if I have a board I can't joint, I break out my hand planes.
Yes, or I'll cut it to fit the jointer, and then glue it back together. It's easier to get the twist, etc out of a smaller board anyway.
Great info! The follow-on I would have is: how do you handle this with a much longer and thicker board? I tend to buy a lot of green or thick stock and it's been painful trying to resaw large stock even in the rare case I have a helper. Would love some tips, thanks!
I got my Laguna 14" about 20 years ago and I didn't know any of this stuff. I set the saw up as per all the vids and instructions I could find and had it set perfectly with a brand new blade in it. I cut cedar laminates off of 2x6's and used them for inlays on some saloon style doors I had made from scratch for an outside gate entrance . My laminates were spot on and I never had the problems you are showing in this video so I am not sure what to think about all this.
This video switched on the light for me - I get how the gadget works but a little too steep for my infrequent use. Instead I realised that if I added a sub fence to the supplied fence then I could provide a method of relieving the stress in the workpiece without deflecting the blade. 30 minutes later I had a solution. I bolted a piece of scrap hardwood to the fence (countersunk head bolts) the subfence runs from before the front of the table to just level with the teeth on the blade, allowing both sides of the workpiece to splay out as they need to. Test pieces centre cut from 18mm birch ply, 18mm sapele and 24mm laurel (yes the one found in the garden!), each piece being about 50mm (2") high I know about the risk of cutting laurel but this piece was well dried out and I work semi-outdoors. The three test pieces went through perfectly (straight down the centre) without any wiggling or blade drift compensation - on a very basic band saw. So, works for me for small pieces - I guess up to 4" (100mm) would be fine. Although, I still like the look of the resaw gadget! But, here in the backwoods of the UK?
David Brearley ha ha. I watched this and that is exactly what I planned on doing. Glad to know it works. Great video for highlighting this issue.
Very good idea! Would this work on a table saw just as well. I have to try that too! Seems it would prevent burning the wood and creating build up on a table saw blade? Am I right?
Nice example and demonstration of this. 👍🏻👍🏻
Cool video. I have a Laguna BX14. I keep ruining stock because of drift which is why I bought the saw in the first place. Are you saying that no matter what, a fence will not work? Will I have to buy yet another jig to resaw? Thanks!
Nice jig. But how do u fit a 4 foot long board in the little ripper for resawing? Is the track extendable?
The track does extend yes! This video shows how to handle a larger log - ruclips.net/video/WGQ906MZdiE/видео.htmlsi=87t9afPuca8YtCSq
Thank you for your expertise and insight..nothing better than learning from someone who has mastered their craft
You can face joint any size board within the confines of the width of your planer, provided you either have a sled or you can take the guard off the jointer, joint as wide as possible on the board, attach a piece of MDF with 2 sided tape to the jointed area, plane the opposite side, then plane the jointed side sans the MDF. Also, as I watched your video, your cut badly went crooked mid cut on your sled. Then, there is the point that, what good is a piece of veneer that's not flat?
I think that wiggle happened at the point where he paused the cut.
I've seen that type of dogleg happen with a pause when the feed speed was too high.
You can't use the rough sawn edge, it has to be planed in any case. The better and straighter the cut, the less planing and less waste. He was pushing a bit hard then eased off so he got a bit of curve. You also have to work with the tolerances of the device, keep your pressure consistant and you will get a consistant cut.
Good video, thanks, however I don't understand how I'm going to get a flat board if it twists anyway when the gripper is released? If the gripper was NOT released I CAN see how I would get veneer of uniform thickness, but not if I release it?
So as the material between the fence and blade stresses it forces your work in a direction that you can't control. So when the board stresses using the Little Ripper the board has nothing to push against so the cut on the board in the Ripper stays true to the blade and the rest of the board is free to stress without causing a problem. I guess that's how I see it. One comment said using a planer sled would be a better idea. I like new ideas and yours is a good one but I'll have to go with the planer sled. Good job on the video!
Thanks to you, I just disappointed my girlfriend. She walked in on me, expecting to find me watching porn, and found me watching some guy sawing a piece of tree. I already know she's going to tell all of her friends. My reputation is ruined.
I have very rarely run into ANY issues resawing with a fence in my 40 years of woodworking experience. If you have a properly set up saw and decent wood, there usually isn't an issue. The few times I have had to deal with any issues does not make me want to go out and buy a little ripper for the absurd price they are asking. Also take into consideration that the pieces you are resawing are probably going to go through a surface sander that will mitigate any slight variances in the resawing process as well. I Just my two cents
OK then, at 6:44 in, what's the difference between using the tall fence and holding it firmly against it on the "left side" of that blade VS using your Little Ripper which holds the piece securely vertical on the operator's "right side" of the blade. The cutoff can splay away equally free in both instances, in my opinion. As long as the cutoff is not "trapped" and not allowed to move, it should nave no issues. In my experience resawing 8" Maple, I use a 3 TPI blade and a 4" tall fence and run the work into the blade parallel to the fence using a sled. The cutoff or the resultant piece, falls to the left side and has parallel sides ready for a pass over the jointer and then through the thickness planer.
That resaw bar that bolts to that fence on that saw solves all the problems you describe, as long as you can cut down a line
Nice demonstration - it's one of those things that seems so obvious after the fact.
Great video! Thanks! 😊
Hmmm... .I tend to resaw a bunch of highly figured wood because I need the material to make inlays with. I've always struggled getting more than one or two usable cuts out of my material before I have to run it through the planner again.
Never thought about using my Little Ripper to resaw lumber, only used it with round stock to date.
Going to give it a try though!!! #FingersCrossed :)
Instead of jointing a warped board I will often hot glue it by 3 or 4 points to a piece of 3/4" plywood that is true.
Good idea!
Sounds good I'm gonna give that a try.
The hot glue will effectively help add some clamp pressure too preventing further warp as you cut against the fence, a bit like in his example.
or run it on your straight board through a planer then resaw.
Yes Eth you have to joint the board to use the fence but if you want say 3mm-1/8” veneer then not doing that will make your first slice bowed even using the other method. Fences have been used for many years and with success and particularly with the right blade and low tension one can obtain thin slices almost ready for use with minimum saw marks. With your piece of kit I cant see how you can be even sure of presenting the wood to the blade at 90 degrees square horizontally or vertically without a lot of messing around. Or have I missed something important?
Enjoy your vids Eth because I like discussion!
I used to mess with fences and contraptions until I found how much easier it is to do by eye with an easy to set magswitch ball bearing guide. All the problems discussed are eliminated by using two rollers one side bearings other side rubber. No limit to length of cut.. Today I didn't even bother with a pencil line, just cut by eye parallel to the edge with a rubber wheel on other side so it stays hard against the bearings. Can find the sweet spot for drift and allow for different sizes and wood density on the fly by listening.
I guess I am confused. What good is getting that little ripper straight cut if, ask soon as you release the clamps your piece can now flex and is no longer flat? It seems that either way, both cutting methods result in a warped end result.
Most people don't have any jointer...and for that there is a #6, 7 or 8 hand plane, pretty basic woodworking skill you will be very happy to have in your skillset.
That clamping jig is fine for a short piece of wood. If you are re-sawing a longer piece, I see zero value in it. Also, what if you joint the piece 1st? Does the stock fence work then?
I feel stupid because I fail to see the difference; you say that the piece you left in the little ripper stays flat until you release it from the jaw clamps, then it releases the stress and is no longer flat, so how DO you cut a piece that is flat?
OK, convincing. Difficult to coff up about half the price of my bandsaw for the contraption, but it looks like it works. Let's see, do 100 cuts that would be about $5 a cut, probably not a problem for a shop that does a hundred cuts a day so in a few weeks you would be down to pennies a cut, but for the home shop where you might go a year or more to make even 100 cuts, OUCH!
One question, what happens if the board is 3 feet long? Is there a practical limit to board length?
I agree with you glasslinger, a bit pricey really. As for your One Question at the end... I get the idea that EthAnsers only answers the questions he himself asks 😒! He has not responded to anyone commenting here, giving me the impression he doesn't care.
I could teach a monkey how to use power tools, including a band saw but jigs are the heart of any woodworking shop.
If you consider yourself a true woodworker, or even a reasonably competent weekend warrior, then make your own "little ripper" for a fraction of the cost.
How, you ask? If you have to ask how to envision, plan, and construct a simple jig, then you are not ready, grasshopper, and you then deserve to have to spend the big money to get someone else to do it for you.
The practical limit of length would only be limited by the length and accuracy/alignment of your fence, indeed and outfeed tables, if using said, or if using the little ripper, the length limit of your board would be determined by the length of the guide channel of the little ripper. Once again, this can be extended indefinitely with readily available materials and if care is taken in aligning/assembling the add ons.
Then you would need to purchase the big ripper.
awesome vid, only stared using a band saw a little while ago and was getting bad drift and bind when cutting Wenge, always cut against the fernce, but will see if i can get one of these rippers in the UK. thanks
Thanks, Ethan - very helpful information! Subscription added!
I’ve owned a Laguna 14” for years,I can resaw using a fence,not with a 1/2 “or 1/4” blade but the widest possible,never had any drift.if my board is warped, I’ll replace it with a flat and straight board. Warped boards use as fire wood. If you can’t tune a bandsaw properly,get someone else to do it.if you can’t tune a guitar,play a violin,if you can’t tune a violin,mow the lawn.no effort required.
Well done !
As a retired airframe structures CAD engineer, I get the “released stress” concept. And appreciate that against a rigid fence, as the cut proceeds, the gapping you demonstrate is constrained to occurs in one direction- away from the fence - thus resulting in a bind and hence, drift. So, we have a dilemma: unlike steel and aluminium where the locked in stresses, caused by ‘working’ the material, can be dissipated via heating (annealing) wood cannot be similarly treated. So, if I want to rip a thin, flat board from a thicker section how do I get (keep) it flat?
If the point of this video was to demonstrate the impossibility of cutting a flat veneer of wood with a bandsaw, mission accomplished.
very interesting, thank you. Lucy
Great knowledge! I always wondered why my wood would drift. Very cool!
ANY material that has inherent stress will warp when cut . also, a blade that is the slightly sharper on one side will want to drift. Even rolled steel when cut like that will bend and twist like mad.
you dont need a joiner- just hot glue it to a Piece of MDF and send it through the thickness planer
If you relieve the fence a quarter inch past the back edge of the blade 3/16" deep, or just remove any fence material beyond the back of the blade, there will be nothing for the warping material to press against. It isn't really necessary to guide the material once it is cut. Your fixture is nice that it keeps the material relatively flat.
God for you
Protecting your nephew
Actually, it shouldn't matter who's watching. There is no need for swearing, it usually comes from immature jerks.
This is really insightful. Thank you for posting.
That's a cool setup. That said, you could square up one edge of that 8 1/2 inch board in a couple of minutes with a hand plane.
Can you get one of these little Rivers for a 9 inch band saw
I have ALWAYS had problems resawing lumber to make a thinner board. This thing looks like it might make that easier!
Would a single point fence just behind the blade also solve the problem?
What if you stop the fence at the blade so the timber can do its own thing?
A man after my heart, I thought I was the only woodworker that wears flip flops in my shop.
This looks amazing!! Just what I need for my shop. Quick question…will it work on any bandsaw? I have a very inexpensive bandsaw (WEN) that works fairly well, but does a very poor job at resawing.
Use that round resaw adapter that came with that RIKON saw.
excuse me if my question is too stupid. did you just turn the bandsaw into a joiner with the little ripper? it looks like it to me.
I bought my bandsaw over 40 years ago. I have become pretty good with it. Never used any jigs other than cutting circles. Resawing is manageable but your jig is pretty cool! Seems you basically turn the shop sized saw into a lumber mill. I’ll be damn!
That board was ba-ah-ah-ah-dly warped 🐐
hey 'ugly' man these videos are just great. thanks a mill
Dang! you blew my mind with this video. hand on my heart, you are a superb teacher and you have the necessary knowledge to back up that skill. hope you make heaps more videos. totally helped me understand this phenomenon. thanks man.
Good video, well explained. I don't do a lot of band saw work but I will remember this.
Glad to see you Ignore the trolls, we must feel sorry for them and their sad little lives.
Great film buddy.
"I personally don't know how to do that." Subscribed.
@@pearlsrx Your demonstration helped me understand a large part of why my riving knife was binding my crosscuts after adjustment, thanks
@@pearlsrx Thanks for the tip on the aux fence. I didn't have a problem with crosscutting on the fence until my knife bent and the fence clamp developed a small crack. Never had a kickback when using the knife, after however many 10k's of cuts. There is, however, a great youtube video of some kids using an industrial saw to shoot javelins across the shop into a target that's a good time, though :D?
@@pearlsrx I remember that guy. He almost cut his finger off using that awful push block. Here's real kickback haha:
ruclips.net/video/zcS0TAabedc/видео.html
Makes a lot of sense. But after you cut it on the little river, you still have to flatten it in a jointer or with a plane . You need to do a lot of ripping to justify buying that jig. What I do for the few times I resaw, I joint the edge on the jointer so it is pretty square, straight and flat . I draw a line down the center of the board and with the straight ,flat edge down and I hand feed it through without a fence and cut to the line. I get stress just like you said and then I flatten one side of each half and then run them through the planer. I don't even have a high fence...Cheers, Jim
I make bandsaw boxes from 4in thick endcuts from a sawmill and I use to never have any problems redrawing the backs off but here lately I have horrible blade drift. I'm using a 3/16th trip blade is that too small for resawing the backs off? Loved your jig makes sense!
How long a board will the little ripper saw
Great video! You make me excited to resaw... Thanks for the great content
Thanks very much! Grad you enjoyed the video.