I'm totally a self-taught woodworker. I've had no experience working with anyone other than myself. The only instruction I have had is on RUclips. I've had to teach myself how to adjust all my tools and how to use them, how to select wood, how to measure accurately, how to choose the right square for the job, the proper use of hand tools, and so on so forth. If it wasn't for woodworkers like you sharing what you know, I'd still be standing out in my workshop scratching my head. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It means a great deal to me that you are available anytime I need some help. I'm subscribing!
Thank you, and whether you are hobbyist or pro, keep the genre alive. Woodworking isn't nearly as popular as it was 20 years ago which is the saddest part.
I'm alive with what you have said. I too, am basically self taught in the past 10 years. Nowadays I attend a Men's Shed where with the camaraderie I'm learning more about woodwork..
In case you weren't aware, tool manuals are an excellent source of information on how to use, adjust and maintain your power tools. Most can be found on the Intrawebs.
@@benpress8884 personally I will learn more from watching and listening to a teacher than I could with just a manual. I am not saying that manuals are not as good, they have their place, but watching a tutor for me I will learn more.
@@hypnoraythompson5824 I, like you, learn best visually. When I have to go to a new doctor, and as I age this happens more than I'd like, I'm still required to fill out a stack of paperwork. So much for paperless systems. One question that I've noticed recently is one where they ask you how you learn best. Video, audio, written, etc. I'm not sure what doctors do with this information. I'll have to remember to ask next time. Maybe they sell it to marketing companies. Anyway, if it wasn't for RUclips my projects would probably look like crap and I wouldn't be able to count to 10 on my fingers.
I love this. I always thought my bandsaw was a tool of the Divinity to punish me for my impure thoughts as a young man. Thank you. Now I can return to my impure thoughts.
well get a fuking bandsaw then. a cheap, used one on eBay isn't bad for starter. just make sure the zero clearance insert hole is square if the insert is missing, makes it easier to make.
Who would have ever thought a video about band saw blades could be informative and entertaining enough to watch for 15+ minutes?! But you managed to make one and then some, actually took away a few pointers, Thanks.
Same here... I'm just anally retentive & wanted to be prepared to get anally retentive about a bandsaw, should I ever get one... you know that blade flutter will just set me off :D
@@MiaN3420 I just bought mine and the video was very helpful, watched several others and they were all helpful. Now if I can put the things I saw into practice.
Best bandsaw tuning video I've seen. Straight forward and no nonsense vernacular. Thanks for your candor and getting to the point. I can finally set mine up right. Didn't know about the cool blocks. Will be looking for those.
As a saw blade manufacturer, I wish everyone would pay even half as much attention to their machines as you do. When something goes wrong with a band sawing operation, nearly everyone blades the blade first when in most cases, it’s not the blade at all causing the problems.
This statement is true for most machines in the world, not just the wood working machines. A good operator, who adjust & maintains his/her machines are worth their weight in GOLD & rubies !
While what you say is something of a universal truth (people not paying attention to the details), a large part of this video was devoted to cleaning up the blade. This is not a criticism of bandsaw blades, in general, just that any blade needs to be properly bedded to the saw.
Very informative, enjoyed watching as I’ve been adjusting mine for many years but I learned two things that I never checked and that was the back edge of the blade and the slide bar! We never stop learning, thanks for sharing. I’ll be checking the back of blade and the slide bar on my next blade change!
This is hands down THE best bandsaw tune-up video I’ve ever seen! I’ve seen 2. Thanks for sharing your practical OCD with us 😁 I’ve never thought to grind the sides of the blade, nor have the cool blocks touch the blade - so much easier.
I had no idea there was so much involved in adjusting a bandsaw, I've aquired an oldish one and I'm so glad I came across this video before I tried using it, I too am slowly learning from these tutorials and plenty of trial and error, ive just subscribed too, many thanks indeed.
Picking up my first bandsaw this week. Been watching many youtube vids of how to stuff while waiting for it. Came across this one and found it the most entertaining and fun to watch. Good tips and your commentary and presentation is A+++. Your style keeps the viewer engaged. Well done. Great bits of humor & thanks for sharing.
You have inspired me to tune my band saw. It a very underused tool in my workshop. If I could achieve the level of accuracy you demonstrate I would use it a lot more. Thank you for your donation to the world of wood work.
Well thought out explanations to the shortcomings of the bandsaw, & possible / logical remedies ! Sadly, we live in a time of planned obsolescence - throw away society, where commerce is nearly all that matters . Thanks for taking the time to share ! * I was an experimental / prototype machinist , & watched the transformation of CNC taking precedence over 'thinking' manual machinists. . . When 'metrification' & overseas labor took man out of manufacturing here in the U.S. , it was sad to see great old machines being sold for scrap prices, *and LESS ! A great saying that's stuck with me over the years, " If you CAN'T make it ACCURATE, make it ADJUSTABLE ! " Take care ! *SUBBED !
when they shut down the charlestown navy yard in the '70s the equip went as scrap for 10 cents on the pound.... a lather that would turn a prop shaft for an aircraft carrier.... sad - SOMEBODY got a HELL of a deal
Good Job ! It's sad that bandsaw tuning has to be such a mystery. I had to learn most of what you presented the hard way and you addressed additional issues that nobody talks about. I picked up a few more tips. Thanks. This kinda makes a woodworker want to run out to their bandsaw.
I bought my first bandsaw a week and a half ago and am now learning to tune it, thanks to the generous woodworkers like yourself. Thank you for the substantial effort you've put into this video.
Yes sir you are definitely full of it, full of knowledge that is. Thank you for this informative video. I have a small tabletop Delta I inherited from from my father and it needs an overhaul.. The tires keep falling off etc. and I think from just the little bit I've seen from you and a couple of other videos I hope to get it running.
A month ago I bought a 14" bandsaw from Harbor Freight and yesterday got it assembled enough to try some cuts. I have never used a bandsaw and certainly have no idea how to tell if one is set up well. This video has been of great help. Now I need a fence for it and I already knew I needed a small machinist's square. Thank you.
This is the best video I’ve ever seen on tuning a Bandsaw. It’s how I was taught in a machine shop. Every time you change a blade or go to use one you check those things if you didn’t set it up. Very good. Thank you.
I watched this video about a year ago and saved it. Went back today and rewatched it. Thanks for the detail in explaining what and how to tune the blade. Will be doing this when I get my bandsaw up and running.
Wonderful video! Very informative. I'm using an old 14" Delta and tuning it has been a bit of a challenge; I'm learning. Watching your video has compelled me to up my game to a higher level. You're the man, Rockwood Joe.
Thanks for the video. Some good points. There seems to be a lot of debate as to where the blade should run on the top wheel. Either teeth gullets central or blade itself centred on the wheel. I think neither is necessarily correct. The gullet to the mid-line has to be wrong because the gullet depth can be so different for different TPI. What I was taught to do is to draw a line dothe middle of a thin piece of wood and cut exactly down the line (without using the fence.) If the piece of wood needs to be tilted one way or the other to follow the line then I adjust the blade run on the top wheel until the piece of wood runs exactly parallel to, but not touching, the fence. Seems to work well and if done carefully should eliminate drift when using the fence.
So if you have to move the peace of wood left to stay on the line. Does that mean you move the blade more to the back of the drive well or more to the front of the drive well?
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!! I was pretty much clueless as how to set up my band saw. You've cut through my confusion, and laid out what I need to do in a clear, easy to understand manner. Once again, THANK YOU!!!
good job , applies to metal bandsaws as well. All of you wood chucks need a precision square, calipers and a dial indicator and mag base to keep tools in alignment. Well tuned machines make work easy.
I have followed a few guides on setting up my bandsaw and nothing has given me results that really satisfy me. I spent 12 months tweaking my table shiddy (mid-range) table saw before getting the desired level of precision to satisfy my OCD. Your anally retentive method gives me confidence to return to my bandsaw, which had been relegated as a dust collecting tool store. Keep up the good work.
Most old bandsaws are very solidly made, maybe a few big castings... you might get a nice surprise if you do all this, and get a blade that actually does what you want to do.... Like if you're cutting light wood and plastics, a sharp new blade, maybe with skip-teeth, it's like a miracle! It hardly seems to touch the work, the surface is not burnt, it cuts as fast as you can reasonably push it. I think half the misery of bandsaws is the tremendous urge to just use whatever blade happens to be in there when you walk up. This is a real problem in school situations!!!
Could totally be a video series .. like "planar blade sharpening fr the anally retentive" or "chainsaw tuning for the anally retentive" .. i think it would run ;)
What a great and simple way you have with your explanations and demonstration of band saw maintenance! I’m a beginner and I was impressed and learned a lot! Thank you
My upper 14" wheel is warped from the saw falling over or being dropped prior to my ownership. I have to: 1. Build a press to straighten the wheel, 2. Build a new wheel similar to Matthias Wandel, or 3. Replace the wheel. I will accomplish this in that order.
William Brewer Izzy does some great work but I also think he’s kind of full of himself. But he also reaches a LOT of people so that’s good for the trade and/or hobby. I will have to check out Paul Sellers
Spent the afternoon making a jig to saw logs on my band saw ... good video, I'm a tuner too, a musician, and can't stand to be off pitch. I've seen Carter's band saw guy walk through tuning up a band saw twice, but putting the cool blocks up to the blade and letting it ride there... that was all you, and a revelation. I have a shop and two band saws, I enjoyed your once over on the saw.. Keep on keeping on.
This is THE BEST set-up guide I've ever seen! I learned a few things and you made me LAUGH! You summed up my feeling about cheap bandsaws perfectly with "like polishing a turd." BTW: Keep the so-called profanity. FUck censorship. Any parent that imagines certain words can hurt their kids is delusional. That stupid smart-phone, the SUV he drives, violence in media, scholastic indoctrination and media brainwashing are a millions times more damaging than any word, especially words about a nice subject.
Thanks! To be honest, I was probably a little more profane than usual, as I did this video in anger after watching the millionth bandsaw video that said "now adjust the fence for drift...". Drift is not addressed in the Delta manual, in fact it tells you to adjust the table (trunnion bolts) so that the table is aligned with.... you guessed it... the guide blocks. Just set everything perpendicular.... that's it! I have no idea where the "drift" concept came from?!
Agreed 👍 Language is a wonderful thing... why ignore or ban some of our most descriptive words!? Great setup guide though. Applies just as much to certain expensive saws and ANY saw that's seen a decent amout of work.
I try to polish as few turds as possible. Another phrase you might like is he’s slower than pond water. I heard a fellow worker colorfully describing a lay-about employee.
I watched it all. Very helpful! I’m a newbie on the bandsaw and this was great to explain all the parts and how to adjust them. Never thought about the blades themselves not being true. Thanks!
That is true for all bandsaw owners who feel they can get more out of their machines Mr. Archer. That's why I limit my Delta 14" bandsaw to Pinewood Derby cars; speed over accuracy is key for a 7 year old. ;D
My delta 14" band saw has bearings instead of the graphite block. It looks like your version would be superior to bearings. I will have to spend more time fine tuning. Thanks for posting. New subscriber.
I agree, the blocks actually support better than bearings, which only contact at a single (almost infinitely small) point. The blocks also generally keep the blade cleaner too, scraping off resin. They used to be standard equipment on all Delta's - even back to the 80s.
On my (very old) band saw all guides are plain bearings (soft steel sleeve on hardened bearing steel shaft and hardened bearing steel in a brass cylinder for thrust). They work well but *only* with very fluid grease. Standard workshop grease is too un-fluid for these. Once I fixed that they work kinda well, at least after a few hours of use (blade wears into the guide sleeves).
I've also used brass (which causes the blade to heat up), and different hard woods (which wear faster). The setup shown is to get maximum accuracy for jointing etc. I want to get a second cheap band saw for roughing and cutting expanded foam that I don't get too uptight about. I use re-claimed antique wood most of the time, and constantly hit nails etc. So, no more expensive blades for me.
A very informative video and timely in that I’m a volunteer at a vintage railway workshop and have been asked to sort out their wavering bandsaw. Thank you for investing your time to help others - THAT’S professional. Many thanks from the other viewer!
IMO the "drift" is from pushing the saw to cut faster than the blade can cut the work. I've never had much problem with that when the blade is sharp and everything is square with the table. A little common sense and patience goes a long way. 67yo newly retired male, 45 mi NE of Denver. 14" Taiwan Delta clone, 20" Grizzly. Building a 35 x 70 shop now. Great Video, Subscribing now.
IMO it's the alignment of the gullet of the blade at the center of the wheel that plays the biggest role in "blade drift". If the blade tracking is off it causes the blade to angle away from perpendicular to the table and causes the wood to drift right or left. It causes wearing of the guide blocks, heating of the blade with resultant dulling etc. The whole idea of the adjustability of the saw is meant to make the blade track perfectly square and perpendicular relative to the work piece. When that happens, there is no drift. Make sense??
Drift is also a consequence of new woodworkers making the mistake of trying to 'push' the blade back on line, instead of steering it, when working freehand. Especially when thing's aren't lined up well, and it looks like you're going straight but the cut isn't. BTW,, if you've never seen a high-speed camera video of a blade that's pushed too hard, look for one. It's amazing the things don't break more often, all the contortions they go through.
"I've never had much problem with that when the blade is sharp and everything is square with the table." You say drift is from pushing the work to fast. Then talk about set up. Which when wrong causes drift. I'm not getting the point you are trying to make? Yes pushing to fast causes drift. Well so does a saw that isn't set up correctly! Which is the point of this video.
Nice comprehensive video, I've been using a bandsaw for a long time and learned some things. I'll have to try the cool blocks. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the setup and testing.
I hung a 2' high x 5' wide mirror in my dining room and called my wife in to see. She instantly told me it was low on the right. I informed her that she was mistaken because I used my new laser level on it. She persisted so I got it back out and lined it up. It was low on the right half the thickness of the laser line (about 1/32"). I trashed the level and now use her on important (things that she can see) things.
Randy, I do believe you an I are married to the same person! At least they must be related somehow. I swear she can notice one thousands of an inch variance!!
My wife is insistent the Christmas tree is perfectly centered in front of the picture window. I eyeball the best I can and then call in the inspector. It take some effort to slide it on the carpet so I need to grunt a little when I move it. Yep, all I do now is grasp the stand and just grunt without actually moving it which satisfies her OCD. "Women! You can't live with them, pass the beer nuts."
Run the same level on the wall where it meets the ceiling and where it meets the floor. I would bet that would also be off giving the appearance that your mirror was off. I agree she has a keen eye.
Correct! I just use the stock spring and guide on the back. Less is better of course, as you don't want to start compressing the tires or abusing the bearings. Let the guides do all the work.
Excellent video. Lots of great tips as I recently acquired my saw and found the setup to be quite a tail-chaser! However, tension is my question. I have a Craftsman 14" bandsaw who's manual barely mentions tension. There's a 1/2" plastic block below the tension spring that I guess is supposed to be the indicator, but is it the top edge or the bottom? Middle? Who knows? Anyway, thank you for the excellent video!
There are no markings for 1/4, 1/2, 3/8 etc.? Perhaps there was a sticker that fell off. You might try a google image search for that saw. I would just adjust tension until the flutter disappears, or as low as possible. I think it is preferable to reduce deforming the rubber tires as much as possible. Cheers!
Rockwood Joe Oh! No, there are marks and widths cast into the aluminum adjustment assembly, but no real mention on how to use it. I just figured there would have been a little more info in the manual, but, no. You answered my question about how less (tension) is more, so I'll run with that. I recently found, by accident, how pretty much every adjustment tends to loosen up sooner or later while ripping 25-1"x4"x8', but now your video will help me set things up correctly from the beginning instead of trying to fix things during...
Informative, clear and detailed with great photography and narration. Thank-you so much, I watched all the way through. Now I really wish I owned a bandsaw...
I appreciated this video in a big way. I'm looking to get a used band saw but have been slightly freaking out on the maintenance and getting it to cut perfect. These steps made my brain calm down on this topic so thanks.
Ain't that the truth! I've seen horrible welds where the blade edges were at least 3 degrees off on fancy "swedish imported" stuff that sells for over $40. Huge lumps etc. That is why my trusty die grinder (or dremel) saves the day. Nothing worse than getting something in the mail - that you want to use right away, and it sucks out of the box. Cheers!
I would like to know the size and pitch of the blade you used in this video. Maybe you could add those details to your description above ^^^^. You did a fairly tall resaw with what looked like 1/4" or 1/2" blade and got a good result. I've witnessed several, so called, experts say this shouldn't be possible or at the very least highly discourage the practice. The wealth of detail in your video has shown that anally retentive tuning has it's rewards. Your experience with silicon steel blades was very valuable to me but I expect that Scuff Phlukups would have an issue with your comments. Too bad for him. Great job!!
Main cause of blade Drift. Blunt blade , causing operator to push work piece harder than necessary. Wheels (bearings or wheel bend) Wheels not balanced causes hammering (moving of saw blade forward and backwards, 5 gram at 5k rpm = 50 kg of swing force !) end result - bearings bust ! blade drift ,forward backward (incorrect butt weld) Blade over tightened at some stage (cause ,out of arc when lay on flat surface ) tooth setting not correct (more on one side than other (saw runs to one or other side, cutting into or out of work.) side grinding is never necessary, but tooth setting is, and no .1 mm is not accurate. too much set on teeth wide groove blade wobbles around . too little , blade burning (especially on wet wood) hard wood small tooth set , softwood can be more tooth set especially pines... (the gummy stuff...) If you are going to grind the the blade back side for severe cases ( use a fixed grinder that is screw adjustable) do not hol by hand... other than that... cant say anything :) Dang i feel old 30 years ago ran the saw shop 24/7 for a very big company, from 20 gauge guillet bandsaw double cuts to Weinig Frame saws, Sherman 40 blader double arbour.. Now those were the days .. Peace out.
Thank you SO much. Just bought my 1st bandsaw and this video will be my benchmark for set up. Your explanations and instructions are clear and your examples are spot on.
Well, I watched it. I've been in business for over 50 years, owned several bandsaws, and I've learned something. Thanks One question, where, the hell, were you 50 years ago? You could have saved me a lot of time and trouble.
I tried that a few times, but the cumbersome fence rails and Delta's super skinny slot convinced me that my fingers were expendable. I love old wood with nails!
There’s another guy that says that drift is a myth. It isn’t a myth, but the cause can be eliminated. One major cause of drift is when the blade wears more on one side than the other. That causes it to prefer cutting on the less worn side, causing drift. In woodworking, one reason for one side wearing more quickly is the cutting of veneer. The veneer side of the cut has less pressure than the thick side, causing uneven wear. Over time, that causes a slight preference towards the veneer side. One way to eliminate that is, if your saw permits it, to move the fence from one side to the other, causing even wear over time. This is a very old technique.
That was helpful. I have not seen anything like this on other channels for setting up and maintaining the blade and the blocks and bearing. Thanks for this. Now I have to get back out in the garage and check my bandsaw!
Hi, I just restored a bandadsaw completely, looks like new. I watched a lot other inputs. What you did here I found very interesting and will chew on this and try the blade grinding. Very interesting, thanks for explaining.
Thank you. I wasn’t looking for this type of video. But, I a currently reviving a Shopsmith Mark V with the band saw attachment. Your video will definitely help me set up the band saw.
LoL 125 butt hurt people still using business cards for blade to bearing alignment disliked this video :) They just don't understand how it is for some of us people who goes so far as to make sure all screw,and bolt heads are turned the same way. When you are Anally Retentive sometimes you have no control over it,and it must be done,or it's never complete. LoL
|Randomly came upon this video.... Watched it through.... just want to say thank you... I wish there were more videos like this.... This is what RUclips is made for. It is all well and good with the plethora of videos on how to use this machine or do this with wood or metal or how to make this, But when it comes to tuning a piece of woodworking or metal working gear, there seem to be precious few videos available. Your detailed explanations and guided instructions are a breath of fresh air and a joy to watch. Keep up the good work and thank you once again.
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I'm totally a self-taught woodworker. I've had no experience working with anyone other than myself. The only instruction I have had is on RUclips. I've had to teach myself how to adjust all my tools and how to use them, how to select wood, how to measure accurately, how to choose the right square for the job, the proper use of hand tools, and so on so forth. If it wasn't for woodworkers like you sharing what you know, I'd still be standing out in my workshop scratching my head. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It means a great deal to me that you are available anytime I need some help. I'm subscribing!
Thank you, and whether you are hobbyist or pro, keep the genre alive. Woodworking isn't nearly as popular as it was 20 years ago which is the saddest part.
I'm alive with what you have said. I too, am basically self taught in the past 10 years. Nowadays I attend a Men's Shed where with the camaraderie I'm learning more about woodwork..
In case you weren't aware, tool manuals are an excellent source of information on how to use, adjust and maintain your power tools. Most can be found on the Intrawebs.
@@benpress8884 personally I will learn more from watching and listening to a teacher than I could with just a manual. I am not saying that manuals are not as good, they have their place, but watching a tutor for me I will learn more.
@@hypnoraythompson5824 I, like you, learn best visually. When I have to go to a new doctor, and as I age this happens more than I'd like, I'm still required to fill out a stack of paperwork. So much for paperless systems. One question that I've noticed recently is one where they ask you how you learn best. Video, audio, written, etc. I'm not sure what doctors do with this information. I'll have to remember to ask next time. Maybe they sell it to marketing companies. Anyway, if it wasn't for RUclips my projects would probably look like crap and I wouldn't be able to count to 10 on my fingers.
I clicked this video on accident and decided to actually watch it.
I regret nothing.
Me too. Highly informative.
A OK!
same here
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I love this. I always thought my bandsaw was a tool of the Divinity to punish me for my impure thoughts as a young man. Thank you. Now I can return to my impure thoughts.
Now i know how to perfectly set up a bandsaw. All i need now is a bandsaw 😂
well get a fuking bandsaw then. a cheap, used one on eBay isn't bad for starter. just make sure the zero clearance insert hole is square if the insert is missing, makes it easier to make.
@Don Shaffer
Why?
Me too.
@Don Shaffer It seems internet trolls are now invading technical spaces. So sad. Get a hobby, find a friend, go away, troll.
@Don Shaffer Yeah....why not?
Who would have ever thought a video about band saw blades could be informative and entertaining enough to watch for 15+ minutes?! But you managed to make one and then some, actually took away a few pointers, Thanks.
2k3sgm b
Honestly , no idea why I watched this since I don't even own or use a bandsaw but it's informative
same here. but it was awesome
Food for thought. I did the same.
I watched it to confirm why I don't own a bandsaw. An absolute fucking shit of a tool to get running and keep running.
Same here... I'm just anally retentive & wanted to be prepared to get anally retentive about a bandsaw, should I ever get one... you know that blade flutter will just set me off :D
@@MiaN3420 I just bought mine and the video was very helpful, watched several others and they were all helpful. Now if I can put the things I saw into practice.
Finally, a RUclips video that gets right to the point without a long drawn out introduction.
I've been woodworking for a long time and this is the best bandsaw setup I've seen. Thanks
Best bandsaw tuning video I've seen. Straight forward and no nonsense vernacular. Thanks for your candor and getting to the point. I can finally set mine up right.
Didn't know about the cool blocks. Will be looking for those.
As a saw blade manufacturer, I wish everyone would pay even half as much attention to their machines as you do. When something goes wrong with a band sawing operation, nearly everyone blades the blade first when in most cases, it’s not the blade at all causing the problems.
This statement is true for most machines in the world, not just the wood working machines. A good operator, who adjust & maintains his/her machines are worth their weight in GOLD & rubies !
@@joelegrand5903 Probably still true in Japan, Germany Switzerland Austria . The USA, other than specialty shops(racing) just ship all the shit !
While what you say is something of a universal truth (people not paying attention to the details), a large part of this video was devoted to cleaning up the blade. This is not a criticism of bandsaw blades, in general, just that any blade needs to be properly bedded to the saw.
This shows how a little care can make a tool like a bandsaw capable of impressive results - bravo!
I got a lot out of this video. I’ve never had anyone show me how to tune up a bandsaw so I really enjoyed the information you’ve provided.
Very informative, enjoyed watching as I’ve been adjusting mine for many years but I learned two things that I never checked and that was the back edge of the blade and the slide bar! We never stop learning, thanks for sharing. I’ll be checking the back of blade and the slide bar on my next blade change!
This is hands down THE best bandsaw tune-up video I’ve ever seen!
I’ve seen 2.
Thanks for sharing your practical OCD with us 😁 I’ve never thought to grind the sides of the blade, nor have the cool blocks touch the blade - so much easier.
I had no idea there was so much involved in adjusting a bandsaw, I've aquired an oldish one and I'm so glad I came across this video before I tried using it, I too am slowly learning from these tutorials and plenty of trial and error, ive just subscribed too, many thanks indeed.
Picking up my first bandsaw this week. Been watching many youtube vids of how to stuff while waiting for it. Came across this one and found it the most entertaining and fun to watch. Good tips and your commentary and presentation is A+++. Your style keeps the viewer engaged. Well done. Great bits of humor & thanks for sharing.
You have inspired me to tune my band saw. It a very underused tool in my workshop. If I could achieve the level of accuracy you demonstrate I would use it a lot more. Thank you for your donation to the world of wood work.
Well thought out explanations to the shortcomings of the bandsaw, & possible / logical remedies ! Sadly, we live in a time of planned obsolescence - throw away society, where commerce is nearly all that matters . Thanks for taking the time to share ! * I was an experimental / prototype machinist , & watched the transformation of CNC taking precedence over 'thinking' manual machinists. . . When 'metrification' & overseas labor took man out of manufacturing here in the U.S. , it was sad to see great old machines being sold for scrap prices, *and LESS ! A great saying that's stuck with me over the years, " If you CAN'T make it ACCURATE, make it ADJUSTABLE ! " Take care ! *SUBBED !
when they shut down the charlestown navy yard in the '70s the equip went as scrap for 10 cents on the pound.... a lather that would turn a prop shaft for an aircraft carrier.... sad - SOMEBODY got a HELL of a deal
Very informative! I appreciate the time it took to make this video. Thank you for sharing your experience, information and time.
Thanks for this informative video. I enjoy watching a master-of-their-craft instruct the rest of us, who don't have a clue.
Good Job ! It's sad that bandsaw tuning has to be such a mystery. I had to learn most of what you presented the hard way and you addressed additional issues that nobody talks about. I picked up a few more tips. Thanks. This kinda makes a woodworker want to run out to their bandsaw.
Watching in Nov 2019 and just learned more about the band saw I inherited from my father. Thanks fo the tips.
I bought my first bandsaw a week and a half ago and am now learning to tune it, thanks to the generous woodworkers like yourself. Thank you for the substantial effort you've put into this video.
I enjoyed that Joe. Setting up all tools/machines I use is the greatest help I can get.
Yes sir you are definitely full of it, full of knowledge that is. Thank you for this informative video. I have a small tabletop Delta I inherited from from my father and it needs an overhaul.. The tires keep falling off etc. and I think from just the little bit I've seen from you and a couple of other videos I hope to get it running.
I have used a bandsaw for years. I just never realized how wrong my knowledge of them actually was. This was very helpful.
A month ago I bought a 14" bandsaw from Harbor Freight and yesterday got it assembled enough to try some cuts. I have never used a bandsaw and certainly have no idea how to tell if one is set up well. This video has been of great help. Now I need a fence for it and I already knew I needed a small machinist's square. Thank you.
This is the best video I’ve ever seen on tuning a Bandsaw. It’s how I was taught in a machine shop. Every time you change a blade or go to use one you check those things if you didn’t set it up. Very good. Thank you.
Great tips!And thanks for the sarcasm as well.A self deprecating sense of humor is funny to no end!
Well that was awesome! It was like a mix between Food Wishes and You Suck At Cooking, but for woodworkers!
"You suck at Bandsaws. Yeah, you totally suck!" Hahaha
I like your style! Easy to follow, lots of description and casual language really makes following you enjoyable and educational!
Thanks!
I watched this video about a year ago and saved it. Went back today and rewatched it. Thanks for the detail in explaining what and how to tune the blade. Will be doing this when I get my bandsaw up and running.
Looks like I'm heading into a long quarantine period. Maybe time to make another video...
Good job. 21 years ago I bought a Jet BS and know what it feels like to obsess about making it "right".
You remind me of “This old Tony” except with wood. Great video! I’m going to give those cool blocks a shot
They work awesome! If not available, use hardwood like maple or cherry! Cheers!
Thank you for the excellent presentation. A logical and well reasoned discourse. Very helpful.
Wonderful video! Very informative. I'm using an old 14" Delta and tuning it has been a bit of a challenge; I'm learning. Watching your video has compelled me to up my game to a higher level. You're the man, Rockwood Joe.
Love how your tools have rust and saw dust,I would listen to that more than someone that has brand new tools and no dust in the shop,thanks
Thanks, I was kinda embarrassed. I was going for an opposite look of the bright and cheery.
Thanks for the video. Some good points. There seems to be a lot of debate as to where the blade should run on the top wheel. Either teeth gullets central or blade itself centred on the wheel. I think neither is necessarily correct. The gullet to the mid-line has to be wrong because the gullet depth can be so different for different TPI. What I was taught to do is to draw a line dothe middle of a thin piece of wood and cut exactly down the line (without using the fence.) If the piece of wood needs to be tilted one way or the other to follow the line then I adjust the blade run on the top wheel until the piece of wood runs exactly parallel to, but not touching, the fence. Seems to work well and if done carefully should eliminate drift when using the fence.
So if you have to move the peace of wood left to stay on the line. Does that mean you move the blade more to the back of the drive well or more to the front of the drive well?
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!
I was pretty much clueless as how to set up my band saw. You've cut through my confusion, and laid out what I need to do in a clear, easy to understand manner.
Once again, THANK YOU!!!
I have watched several band saw tune up video's, this is totally my favorite - thank you!
You are my hero for today Joe (but only today). I laughed and I learned. What more can you ask from a RUclips video?
My sentiments exactly!!
good job , applies to metal bandsaws as well. All of you wood chucks need a precision square, calipers and a dial indicator and mag base to keep tools in alignment. Well tuned machines make work easy.
I have followed a few guides on setting up my bandsaw and nothing has given me results that really satisfy me. I spent 12 months tweaking my table shiddy (mid-range) table saw before getting the desired level of precision to satisfy my OCD. Your anally retentive method gives me confidence to return to my bandsaw, which had been relegated as a dust collecting tool store. Keep up the good work.
This is one of the best setup videos out there. Good work and thanks.
Just got an OLD band saw. This is going to help me ALLOT !!!!
Most old bandsaws are very solidly made, maybe a few big castings... you might get a nice surprise if you do all this, and get a blade that actually does what you want to do.... Like if you're cutting light wood and plastics, a sharp new blade, maybe with skip-teeth, it's like a miracle! It hardly seems to touch the work, the surface is not burnt, it cuts as fast as you can reasonably push it. I think half the misery of bandsaws is the tremendous urge to just use whatever blade happens to be in there when you walk up. This is a real problem in school situations!!!
Could totally be a video series .. like "planar blade sharpening fr the anally retentive" or "chainsaw tuning for the anally retentive" .. i think it would run ;)
What a great and simple way you have with your explanations and demonstration of band saw maintenance! I’m a beginner and I was impressed and learned a lot! Thank you
Great video. You showed stuff that we don't see when setting up a brand new bandsaw or after changing the blade. Really nice!
My upper 14" wheel is warped from the saw falling over or being dropped prior to my ownership. I have to:
1. Build a press to straighten the wheel,
2. Build a new wheel similar to Matthias Wandel, or
3. Replace the wheel.
I will accomplish this in that order.
There are replacement wheels online. Just make sure they ship it better than how Amazon would.
You are full of it. It being awesomeness! Great video. You taught me some new tricks. And they really helped out.
Thanks. I wish I had more time to make vids. I hope folks keep woodworking as a hobby... it's disappearing as a past time.
Rockwood Joe go check out Paul Sellers and Izzy Swan
William Brewer Izzy does some great work but I also think he’s kind of full of himself. But he also reaches a LOT of people so that’s good for the trade and/or hobby. I will have to check out Paul Sellers
Spent the afternoon making a jig to saw logs on my band saw ... good video, I'm a tuner too, a musician, and can't stand to be off pitch. I've seen Carter's band saw guy walk through tuning up a band saw twice, but putting the cool blocks up to the blade and letting it ride there... that was all you, and a revelation. I have a shop and two band saws, I enjoyed your once over on the saw.. Keep on keeping on.
Very nicely done. This video and the one from Alex Snodgrass are the gold standard videos for proper bandsaw setup and operation.
I don’t know about the other two people who watched this video but I thought it was pretty good.
This is THE BEST set-up guide I've ever seen! I learned a few things and you made me LAUGH! You summed up my feeling about cheap bandsaws perfectly with "like polishing a turd."
BTW: Keep the so-called profanity. FUck censorship. Any parent that imagines certain words can hurt their kids is delusional. That stupid smart-phone, the SUV he drives, violence in media, scholastic indoctrination and media brainwashing are a millions times more damaging than any word, especially words about a nice subject.
Thanks! To be honest, I was probably a little more profane than usual, as I did this video in anger after watching the millionth bandsaw video that said "now adjust the fence for drift...". Drift is not addressed in the Delta manual, in fact it tells you to adjust the table (trunnion bolts) so that the table is aligned with.... you guessed it... the guide blocks. Just set everything perpendicular.... that's it! I have no idea where the "drift" concept came from?!
Rockwood Joe. Fuckanaey tweety!
Enjoyed your video. Got some really good tips from it. I too have a very cheap bandsaw. At the moment it does what I want it to do.
Agreed 👍
Language is a wonderful thing... why ignore or ban some of our most descriptive words!?
Great setup guide though. Applies just as much to certain expensive saws and ANY saw that's seen a decent amout of work.
I try to polish as few turds as possible. Another phrase you might like is he’s slower than pond water. I heard a fellow worker colorfully describing a lay-about employee.
Been running and tuning bandsaws for 40 years but some of your insights are new to my understanding. Thank you.
I watched it all. Very helpful! I’m a newbie on the bandsaw and this was great to explain all the parts and how to adjust them. Never thought about the blades themselves not being true. Thanks!
There is a true love hate relationship going on here with this man and his band saw.
That is true for all bandsaw owners who feel they can get more out of their machines Mr. Archer. That's why I limit my Delta 14" bandsaw to Pinewood Derby cars; speed over accuracy is key for a 7 year old. ;D
My delta 14" band saw has bearings instead of the graphite block. It looks like your version would be superior to bearings. I will have to spend more time fine tuning.
Thanks for posting.
New subscriber.
I agree, the blocks actually support better than bearings, which only contact at a single (almost infinitely small) point. The blocks also generally keep the blade cleaner too, scraping off resin. They used to be standard equipment on all Delta's - even back to the 80s.
On my (very old) band saw all guides are plain bearings (soft steel sleeve on hardened bearing steel shaft and hardened bearing steel in a brass cylinder for thrust). They work well but *only* with very fluid grease. Standard workshop grease is too un-fluid for these. Once I fixed that they work kinda well, at least after a few hours of use (blade wears into the guide sleeves).
I've also used brass (which causes the blade to heat up), and different hard woods (which wear faster). The setup shown is to get maximum accuracy for jointing etc. I want to get a second cheap band saw for roughing and cutting expanded foam that I don't get too uptight about. I use re-claimed antique wood most of the time, and constantly hit nails etc. So, no more expensive blades for me.
Mate those blocks are a revelation! where can I get some? You are the 'This Old Tony' of woodworking. You got a sub from me.
google "cool blocks"
A very informative video and timely in that I’m a volunteer at a vintage railway workshop and have been asked to sort out their wavering bandsaw. Thank you for investing your time to help others - THAT’S professional. Many thanks from the other viewer!
I loved the bandsaw in my high school days but never was instructed as to care and maintenance. Thanks for your expertise instruction and suggestions.
For the love of my ocd please do a table saw tune up vid
Yes, I'm thinking of doing one for my portable Dewalt. Thanks.
arose460
arose460 .....cdo is the alphabetically correct order
I would pay for this
Yes please! Thanks in advance!
Well yah, after watching the 15:18 I'm definitely more intelligent than I was. Thanks to you.
I admire your attention to detail and your setup/maintenance. Great video. I like learning new things everyday.
This is by far the best band saw tips video i have ever seen. Thanks for all the tips!
I have a band saw and i haven't used it in ten years! The guy i bought it from sold it to me for $100 as he didn't use it for more then 10 years!
I honestly don't use my bandsaw much either. But when I need it, the bandsaw is just invaluable.
IMO the "drift" is from pushing the saw to cut faster than the blade can cut the work. I've never had much problem with that when the blade is sharp and everything is square with the table. A little common sense and patience goes a long way. 67yo newly retired male, 45 mi NE of Denver. 14" Taiwan Delta clone, 20" Grizzly. Building a 35 x 70 shop now. Great Video, Subscribing now.
Surprisingly... the original Delta's owner's manual says the same thing... ;) It's not freakin' rocket science!
Yep drift is to much force on too small a blade. If you're resawing enough that you need to speed though it, get a wider blade and call it day.
IMO it's the alignment of the gullet of the blade at the center of the wheel that plays the biggest role in "blade drift". If the blade tracking is off it causes the blade to angle away from perpendicular to the table and causes the wood to drift right or left. It causes wearing of the guide blocks, heating of the blade with resultant dulling etc. The whole idea of the adjustability of the saw is meant to make the blade track perfectly square and perpendicular relative to the work piece. When that happens, there is no drift.
Make sense??
Drift is also a consequence of new woodworkers making the mistake of trying to 'push' the blade back on line, instead of steering it, when working freehand. Especially when thing's aren't lined up well, and it looks like you're going straight but the cut isn't. BTW,, if you've never seen a high-speed camera video of a blade that's pushed too hard, look for one. It's amazing the things don't break more often, all the contortions they go through.
"I've never had much problem with that when the blade is sharp and everything is square with the table." You say drift is from pushing the work to fast. Then talk about set up. Which when wrong causes drift. I'm not getting the point you are trying to make? Yes pushing to fast causes drift. Well so does a saw that isn't set up correctly! Which is the point of this video.
Nice comprehensive video, I've been using a bandsaw for a long time and learned some things. I'll have to try the cool blocks.
Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the setup and testing.
This was one of the best videos on bandsaw tuneup that I have seen. Great stuff! Thanks!
I hung a 2' high x 5' wide mirror in my dining room and called my wife in to see. She instantly told me it was low on the right. I informed her that she was mistaken because I used my new laser level on it. She persisted so I got it back out and lined it up. It was low on the right half the thickness of the laser line (about 1/32"). I trashed the level and now use her on important (things that she can see) things.
Besides, if she ain't happy; ain't nobody happy.
Randy, I do believe you an I are married to the same person! At least they must be related somehow. I swear she can notice one thousands of an inch variance!!
My wife is insistent the Christmas tree is perfectly centered in front of the picture window. I eyeball the best I can and then call in the inspector. It take some effort to slide it on the carpet so I need to grunt a little when I move it. Yep, all I do now is grasp the stand and just grunt without actually moving it which satisfies her OCD. "Women! You can't live with them, pass the beer nuts."
@@melmyers4329 That is when you replace the needy psycho that only thinks of herself.
Run the same level on the wall where it meets the ceiling and where it meets the floor. I would bet that would also be off giving the appearance that your mirror was off. I agree she has a keen eye.
Putting enough tension on blade is essential also.
Correct! I just use the stock spring and guide on the back. Less is better of course, as you don't want to start compressing the tires or abusing the bearings. Let the guides do all the work.
Excellent video. Lots of great tips as I recently acquired my saw and found the setup to be quite a tail-chaser! However, tension is my question. I have a Craftsman 14" bandsaw who's manual barely mentions tension. There's a 1/2" plastic block below the tension spring that I guess is supposed to be the indicator, but is it the top edge or the bottom? Middle? Who knows?
Anyway, thank you for the excellent video!
There are no markings for 1/4, 1/2, 3/8 etc.? Perhaps there was a sticker that fell off. You might try a google image search for that saw. I would just adjust tension until the flutter disappears, or as low as possible. I think it is preferable to reduce deforming the rubber tires as much as possible. Cheers!
Rockwood Joe Oh! No, there are marks and widths cast into the aluminum adjustment assembly, but no real mention on how to use it. I just figured there would have been a little more info in the manual, but, no. You answered my question about how less (tension) is more, so I'll run with that. I recently found, by accident, how pretty much every adjustment tends to loosen up sooner or later while ripping 25-1"x4"x8', but now your video will help me set things up correctly from the beginning instead of trying to fix things during...
YOU CERTAINLY ANSWERED A BUNCH OF QUESTIONS. NOW COMES THE GOOD PART--MAKING MY SAW WORK AS IT SHOULD--THANKS
Informative, clear and detailed with great photography and narration. Thank-you so much, I watched all the way through. Now I really wish I owned a bandsaw...
Pretty good info, I’m a metal man. But subscribed .
This video calms me. Thumbs up.
Man that was impressive...especially after being someone who has tried to setup a bandsaw numerous times. thanx!
Love the CDN tire calipers. :)
I appreciated this video in a big way. I'm looking to get a used band saw but have been slightly freaking out on the maintenance and getting it to cut perfect. These steps made my brain calm down on this topic so thanks.
That blade flutter can be the result of a blade
that wasn't welded in alignment.
Ain't that the truth! I've seen horrible welds where the blade edges were at least 3 degrees off on fancy "swedish imported" stuff that sells for over $40. Huge lumps etc. That is why my trusty die grinder (or dremel) saves the day. Nothing worse than getting something in the mail - that you want to use right away, and it sucks out of the box. Cheers!
I would like to know the size and pitch of the blade you used in this video. Maybe you could add those details to your description above ^^^^.
You did a fairly tall resaw with what looked like 1/4" or 1/2" blade and got a good result. I've witnessed several, so called, experts say this shouldn't be possible or at the very least highly discourage the practice. The wealth of detail in your video has shown that anally retentive tuning has it's rewards. Your experience with silicon steel blades was very valuable to me but I expect that Scuff Phlukups would have an issue with your comments. Too bad for him.
Great job!!
This is the best video bandsaw set I have seen. Going to use it to set up both of my bandsaws tomorrow using it. Thanks
very cool ! Learned about carbon cooling blocks , and the grinding to stabilize the blade - amazing.
Spot on vid dude ..👍👍👍👍🤘🤘🤘
Main cause of blade Drift.
Blunt blade , causing operator to push work piece harder than necessary.
Wheels (bearings or wheel bend)
Wheels not balanced causes hammering (moving of saw blade forward and backwards, 5 gram at 5k rpm = 50 kg of swing force !) end result - bearings bust !
blade drift ,forward backward (incorrect butt weld)
Blade over tightened at some stage (cause ,out of arc when lay on flat surface )
tooth setting not correct (more on one side than other (saw runs to one or other side, cutting into or out of work.)
side grinding is never necessary, but tooth setting is, and no .1 mm is not accurate.
too much set on teeth wide groove blade wobbles around . too little , blade burning (especially on wet wood)
hard wood small tooth set , softwood can be more tooth set especially pines... (the gummy stuff...)
If you are going to grind the the blade back side for severe cases ( use a fixed grinder that is screw adjustable) do not hol by hand...
other than that... cant say anything :)
Dang i feel old 30 years ago ran the saw shop 24/7 for a very big company, from 20 gauge guillet bandsaw double cuts to Weinig Frame saws, Sherman 40 blader double arbour.. Now those were the days ..
Peace out.
Thank you SO much. Just bought my 1st bandsaw and this video will be my benchmark for set up. Your explanations and instructions are clear and your examples are spot on.
Good luck! Enjoy the hobby to its fullest!
As a diesel mechanic incharge of a woodwork shop in a mens shed I find these video's very useful as no one will maintain the machines. Thank you.
Well, I watched it. I've been in business for over 50 years, owned several bandsaws, and I've learned something. Thanks
One question, where, the hell, were you 50 years ago? You could have saved me a lot of time and trouble.
I was still an accident waiting to happen....
That nail in the teak was bugging the heck outta me. Remove the table to adjust the bottom.
I tried that a few times, but the cumbersome fence rails and Delta's super skinny slot convinced me that my fingers were expendable. I love old wood with nails!
Simply Brilliant!! Thank you for sharing this precious knowledge.
The best, most informative and humorous video I've seen for years.
There’s another guy that says that drift is a myth. It isn’t a myth, but the cause can be eliminated. One major cause of drift is when the blade wears more on one side than the other. That causes it to prefer cutting on the less worn side, causing drift.
In woodworking, one reason for one side wearing more quickly is the cutting of veneer. The veneer side of the cut has less pressure than the thick side, causing uneven wear. Over time, that causes a slight preference towards the veneer side. One way to eliminate that is, if your saw permits it, to move the fence from one side to the other, causing even wear over time. This is a very old technique.
Mel Gross that too makes sense. Thanks
Isn't the fluttering caused by the blade being under-tensioned?
Yes.
That was helpful. I have not seen anything like this on other channels for setting up and maintaining the blade and the blocks and bearing. Thanks for this. Now I have to get back out in the garage and check my bandsaw!
Hey Joe, I find myself going back to this video again and again. Thanks for posting from down the road in Crawford
Excellent to see that Stodoys has new what helped me save some money and energy to build it.
I tried this but every time i get to the die grinder part it grinds off all the teeth on my blade, WTF am i doing wrong
LOL 😂
very funny
res1492 You’re holding the wrong end of the die grinder! Shish! This isn’t Science Rocket!
Hi, I just restored a bandadsaw completely, looks like new. I watched a lot other inputs.
What you did here I found very interesting and will chew on this and try the blade grinding.
Very interesting, thanks for explaining.
Thank you. I wasn’t looking for this type of video. But, I a currently reviving a Shopsmith Mark V with the band saw attachment. Your video will definitely help me set up the band saw.
I saw "for the anally retentive" so I clicked
Damn right!
LoL 125 butt hurt people still using business cards for blade to bearing alignment disliked this video :) They just don't understand how it is for some of us people who goes so far as to make sure all screw,and bolt heads are turned the same way. When you are Anally Retentive sometimes you have no control over it,and it must be done,or it's never complete. LoL
There needs to be a support group, but nobody would be perfect enough to lead it!
|Randomly came upon this video.... Watched it through.... just want to say thank you... I wish there were more videos like this.... This is what RUclips is made for. It is all well and good with the plethora of videos on how to use this machine or do this with wood or metal or how to make this, But when it comes to tuning a piece of woodworking or metal working gear, there seem to be precious few videos available. Your detailed explanations and guided instructions are a breath of fresh air and a joy to watch. Keep up the good work and thank you once again.
Brilliant!.I have struggled with mine forever! Now i understand whats needed.Thank you.