Thanks for the videos guys. Less blunt force to the hub at a different angle/a hub puller would've been suffice. I like that you guys didn't do a cut scene when having complications with the outer tie rod as well. I despise vids where people make every job they do seem so easy but don't show the fighting of certain parts they had to go through to get them loosened. Keep up the good work.
Hammering from the top of the Hub seemed like a bad idea to me. With this approach either the hub has to bend or the kuckle has to bend. My XC has over 160K miles and lived in a cold climate all of its life so it was rusted in really badly. What I did instead was to reinstall the 4 bolts leaving them 1/4 inch out. I then hammered each of them from the back in a cross pattern until the hub popped out. Easy to do using a regular hammer and since the bolts are supposed to be replaced anyway, it presented much less risk of damage to the knuckle. HTH
With the strut bolts if you leave the bottom one in I'll rotate down enough to do the work and you dont have to keep un and re-inserting.. Great video just trying to save us all work😎 Thanks man!
My front strut decided to rotate when I removed the hub support assembly! The wheel bearing bolts I'm having a lot of trouble loosening, even with a gun running at 450 nM. Great video by the way.
@8:55 THIS IS THE STEP YOU MISSED IF YOU WOULD'VE USE THE AXLE BOLT AND A LONE SOCKET AND A HAMMER YOU COULDVE BACKED THE BOLT OUT 1/4 AND HIT THE SOCKET WITH THE HEMMER AND BROKE THE AXLE FRE IMO
There's really no need to wallop on the top of the hub flange to get the hub & bearing assembly out. It's wasted effort. Consider the angle of attack of the hammer. That force is being transferred directly to the opposite side of the hub into the knuckle. It would be more efficient (and less likely to cause damage to the knuckle bore) to hit it from the backside of the flange, that way nearly 100% of the force is going into driving the hub out of the knuckle, instead of sideways into the knuckle (and also transferring force into the ball joint, and exerting excess force in the strut which is at its limit of extension in this case. As Joe Dirt mentioned, a better approach would be using the single-use flange-head bolts on the back as hammer points to drive the hub assembly straight out the front of the knuckle a bit at a time at each corner. Alternatively, a slide hammer mounted in the axle hole of the bearing would likely pull the assembly out pretty easily. Worth noting: Don't reuse any fasteners that have the factory red thread lock compound on them. They are usually torque-to-yield fasteners (angle torque), which means they stretch by design. Once they are torqued once, they cannot be removed and torqued the same again without compromising their integrity. Refer to the Volvo VIDA repair procedure for basically anything that involves such fasteners. They warn you every time to use new fasteners unless otherwise specified. This is a safety issue and should be heeded. Especially for something as critically important as a wheel bearing. This goes for the bearing assembly flange bolts (4), as well as the M10x40 (or M10x65 in this case) axle bolt. All are single-use.
Well I followed this to a T and the two bolts you need to loosen seized up on me, can't get a closed ended wrench between the boot and the wrench and an open ended wrench strips the bolts, basically the boot is too big around to get the wrench behind the bolt, glad I watched a video that made me think i could do this, bout to have to call the local scrap yard and give my car away for almost nothing
Heating up the top of track rod end not advicable if you intend to re use you may be missing the rubber boot, but the heat transfers down the shaft and cooks the grease in the boot rendering it useless
Don't you need to have front end realigned after taken everything apart? Smacking the hub with a lumpy might not be the only thing that gets hit (i.e. fender, abs line, etc) Great video overall..
Wrong torq spec for the caliper carrier to hub. According to my source it’s 105nm(77fp)+60 degrees, even tho it looks tight enough 🤷🏻♂️ 35nm(26fp)+60 degrees is for rear
Sooo .. I will take these knuckle Bolts off to thank you for your precious efforts in this video and get them back again in their place ... shame on you Volvo LOOL 😃
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Thanks for the videos guys. Less blunt force to the hub at a different angle/a hub puller would've been suffice. I like that you guys didn't do a cut scene when having complications with the outer tie rod as well. I despise vids where people make every job they do seem so easy but don't show the fighting of certain parts they had to go through to get them loosened. Keep up the good work.
I love ALL your XC90 vids ! has helped out my 195K Beast . Keep them coming
one of the best auto "how to" videos ive ever seen
Hammering from the top of the Hub seemed like a bad idea to me. With this approach either the hub has to bend or the kuckle has to bend. My XC has over 160K miles and lived in a cold climate all of its life so it was rusted in really badly. What I did instead was to reinstall the 4 bolts leaving them 1/4 inch out. I then hammered each of them from the back in a cross pattern until the hub popped out. Easy to do using a regular hammer and since the bolts are supposed to be replaced anyway, it presented much less risk of damage to the knuckle. HTH
+Joe Dirt Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the tip. 2 years later. Going at this over weekend. 🇨🇮✌️
With the strut bolts if you leave the bottom one in I'll rotate down enough to do the work and you dont have to keep un and re-inserting.. Great video just trying to save us all work😎 Thanks man!
My front strut decided to rotate when I removed the hub support assembly! The wheel bearing bolts I'm having a lot of trouble loosening, even with a gun running at 450 nM. Great video by the way.
+Scott Waldie Thanks for checking us out, Good luck with getting those bolts loose! 1AAuto.com
11:50 ...as it hangs from the sensor wire...
Great video. One small correction, Stop Signs are Octagons or 8 sided. Allen head is 6 sided...
+RadarUser Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
@8:55 THIS IS THE STEP YOU MISSED IF YOU WOULD'VE USE THE AXLE BOLT AND A LONE SOCKET AND A HAMMER YOU COULDVE BACKED THE BOLT OUT 1/4 AND HIT THE SOCKET WITH THE HEMMER AND BROKE THE AXLE FRE IMO
There's really no need to wallop on the top of the hub flange to get the hub & bearing assembly out. It's wasted effort. Consider the angle of attack of the hammer. That force is being transferred directly to the opposite side of the hub into the knuckle. It would be more efficient (and less likely to cause damage to the knuckle bore) to hit it from the backside of the flange, that way nearly 100% of the force is going into driving the hub out of the knuckle, instead of sideways into the knuckle (and also transferring force into the ball joint, and exerting excess force in the strut which is at its limit of extension in this case.
As Joe Dirt mentioned, a better approach would be using the single-use flange-head bolts on the back as hammer points to drive the hub assembly straight out the front of the knuckle a bit at a time at each corner.
Alternatively, a slide hammer mounted in the axle hole of the bearing would likely pull the assembly out pretty easily.
Worth noting: Don't reuse any fasteners that have the factory red thread lock compound on them. They are usually torque-to-yield fasteners (angle torque), which means they stretch by design. Once they are torqued once, they cannot be removed and torqued the same again without compromising their integrity. Refer to the Volvo VIDA repair procedure for basically anything that involves such fasteners. They warn you every time to use new fasteners unless otherwise specified. This is a safety issue and should be heeded. Especially for something as critically important as a wheel bearing. This goes for the bearing assembly flange bolts (4), as well as the M10x40 (or M10x65 in this case) axle bolt. All are single-use.
+xyphur Thanks for the feedback!
14:00 & 14:29 look at those marks on the old wheel hub/bearing, that´s one of the reasons I do the repairs myself
Well I followed this to a T and the two bolts you need to loosen seized up on me, can't get a closed ended wrench between the boot and the wrench and an open ended wrench strips the bolts, basically the boot is too big around to get the wrench behind the bolt, glad I watched a video that made me think i could do this, bout to have to call the local scrap yard and give my car away for almost nothing
Heating up the top of track rod end not advicable if you intend to re use you may be missing the rubber boot, but the heat transfers down the shaft and cooks the grease in the boot rendering it useless
Don't you need to have front end realigned after taken everything apart? Smacking the hub with a lumpy might not be the only thing that gets hit (i.e. fender, abs line, etc) Great video overall..
Would it be the same for 2011 s40 t5?? Thanks
FYI, I didn’t need to separate the tie rod to get the CV shaft out of the bearing on my 08 Volvo…
Wrong torq spec for the caliper carrier to hub. According to my source it’s 105nm(77fp)+60 degrees, even tho it looks tight enough 🤷🏻♂️ 35nm(26fp)+60 degrees is for rear
Anyone know of a video for a 2016 XC90?
hammering out is excellent, though people have other way loose it out.
Sooo .. I will take these knuckle Bolts off to thank you for your precious efforts in this video and get them back again in their place ... shame on you Volvo LOOL 😃
+7Gooo Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
When I undid the axle bolt oil poured out.. Could you tell me why?
+Michael Caine This isn't uncommon and just needs to be refilled after. Thanks for watching.
I don't think anyone attempting the wheel bearings will need lessons on removing a wheel. Good vid though.
So how many ft lbs lol