Great video. I found you don't need to disconnect the sway bar link or strut fork at the strut. Just remove the bolt holding the fork to the lower control arm and there is enough movement in the control arm bushings and strut mount to sneak the axle out.
Was it making any noises and was it leaking? I have a v6 300 and it makes a popping noise when turning and a clunking noise when going over uneven roads at any speed
Crawled under the 2010 AWD just picked up to quick inspect and found a torn inner tripoid joint boot on driver side, so just ordered an axle from Rock Auto for $55 shipped, they shipped it 30m after I ordered it... I noticed that it would want to veer 1 direction or the other instead of centering on corners, and that joint had quite a bit of sand in it.. hoping this is the issue and not requiring an alignment.. Previous owner appears to have recently swapped lower control arms and sway bar links, see it has the bigger front sway bar and some skimpy rear one.. 2010 Charger with the 3.5 death rattle.. swapped 1 rocker assembly and of course the side with no visible wear decides it wants to rattle now, got gel on me... It can wait a few months as there was no wear like side that failed n ate pillars.. need to find some suspension play first, there is about an inch float somewhere, I suspect rear sway bushings... find out soon as this heat wave passes.. nice vid, going to try to sneak out without taking clevis out, just that bolt...
Crack everything loose before jacking up, or place a jack under the LCA to keep it at ride height. No different than any old torsion-bar Mopar car. You put it back together the same way. Fasteners are to be torqued only with car at ride height (car up on ramps or alignment rack).
hardway i remove the break, hub turn wheel axel comes right out now u not smart if u think u just work on this week befor soke all bolts with rust pentator will save u so much time, that locking ring is pain some times pulling back forth on it u dont need remove most this if u remove hub i did it on passager side put hub back on done
Noticed you never put a torque wrench on the axle nuts. They're supposed to be at 184ftlbs, least by the book. Have you had any wheel hub failures since then?? Maybe 'uggadugga' is plenty tight enough!
My buddy owns a transmission shop. I asked him how he gets the CV axle out so fast. He said air Hammer. Went to harbor freight got a cheap one.... For 12$ for the air Hammer saved me a lot of time and cursing.
Heck yea, I'm not a very big guy and air tools in general are like a secret power. They've finally gotten electric impact wrenches down just need an electric air hammer
I noticed C Gerlach had torque specs. for to axle nut. Could anyone supply torque specs for to rest of the bolts? Or is there a Chrysler page I could get a link to.?
@@IntenseBlue318 thanks for the respond. The snap ring (5142217AA) is inside so there is nothing I can do, right? I hammered like crazy with no luck. Do you have any good advice.
I have a question the axle boot being torn would it cause the and system to not work after some time and would it also cause problems with the ABS and traction control
Checking into parts for my 2015 Charger. The axle nut ''should'' be 32mm. Since I get to work on so many different cars I just bought axle nut sockets and threw them in my toolbox! I'm a retired maintenance supervisor, don't know how I became everybody's mechanic now!?!
@@dupriesmith7827 If you have time to wait for shipping, try RockAuto for your parts. I've been finding the same MOOG parts at half of what the parts store wants! My Charger has that Automatic All Wheel Drive,, makes it a bitch to find the right parts. Which axle would you be referring to? I've got 4 individual axles!!
Great video. I found you don't need to disconnect the sway bar link or strut fork at the strut. Just remove the bolt holding the fork to the lower control arm and there is enough movement in the control arm bushings and strut mount to sneak the axle out.
Thanks man
Was it making any noises and was it leaking? I have a v6 300 and it makes a popping noise when turning and a clunking noise when going over uneven roads at any speed
No. Those do sound like they could be bad cv joint symptoms though. Mine just felt loose.
Crawled under the 2010 AWD just picked up to quick inspect and found a torn inner tripoid joint boot on driver side, so just ordered an axle from Rock Auto for $55 shipped, they shipped it 30m after I ordered it... I noticed that it would want to veer 1 direction or the other instead of centering on corners, and that joint had quite a bit of sand in it.. hoping this is the issue and not requiring an alignment.. Previous owner appears to have recently swapped lower control arms and sway bar links, see it has the bigger front sway bar and some skimpy rear one.. 2010 Charger with the 3.5 death rattle.. swapped 1 rocker assembly and of course the side with no visible wear decides it wants to rattle now, got gel on me... It can wait a few months as there was no wear like side that failed n ate pillars.. need to find some suspension play first, there is about an inch float somewhere, I suspect rear sway bushings... find out soon as this heat wave passes.. nice vid, going to try to sneak out without taking clevis out, just that bolt...
Thanks for the video
Crack everything loose before jacking up, or place a jack under the LCA to keep it at ride height. No different than any old torsion-bar Mopar car.
You put it back together the same way.
Fasteners are to be torqued only with car at ride height (car up on ramps or alignment rack).
You should measure the ride-height anyway, write the number down somewhere, you might never need it but just in case!!
hardway i remove the break, hub turn wheel axel comes right out now u not smart if u think u just work on this week befor soke all bolts with rust pentator will save u so much time,
that locking ring is pain some times pulling back forth on it u dont need remove most this if u remove hub i did it on passager side put hub back on done
Passenger side kicking my ass lol
Noticed you never put a torque wrench on the axle nuts. They're supposed to be at 184ftlbs, least by the book. Have you had any wheel hub failures since then?? Maybe 'uggadugga' is plenty tight enough!
yes, that preload on bearing is critical to avoid premature wear...
My buddy owns a transmission shop. I asked him how he gets the CV axle out so fast. He said air Hammer. Went to harbor freight got a cheap one.... For 12$ for the air Hammer saved me a lot of time and cursing.
Heck yea, I'm not a very big guy and air tools in general are like a secret power.
They've finally gotten electric impact wrenches down just need an electric air hammer
How you make it so easy to hammer the axle out I’m having so much trouble getting it out because that ring
Gotta play the axle some Barry White first
@@IntenseBlue318 okay I did that axle still not coming out:(
@@garrettoryahh7054 gonna have to revert to bigger hammers then
@@IntenseBlue318 got it. By chance have you replaced the rear axles? If so did you go dealer or online ?
@@garrettoryahh7054 I didn't. Aftermarket cv axles are pretty much all shit it seems, at least your normal parts store and rock auto shit.
I need more videos like this
I noticed C Gerlach had torque specs. for to axle nut. Could anyone supply torque specs for to rest of the bolts? Or is there a Chrysler page I could get a link to.?
How to change the transmission fluid in that charger
Thank god lol ! Thought I was going to have to take out the hib and everything
fortunately not. just be sure they complete engage into the axle shafts from the diff.
@@IntenseBlue318 how to engage the axle shaft.
@@uwe.s. snap rings
@@IntenseBlue318 thanks for the respond.
The snap ring (5142217AA) is inside so there is nothing I can do, right? I hammered like crazy with no luck. Do you have any good advice.
@@uwe.s. Use some blocks of wood and hammer it out like I did.
Slide hammer works like a charm 👍🏿thank you for the vid
So this make your car shake when doing 70 miles
Where did you buy the cv axles?
Do the seals need to be replaced?
I have a question the axle boot being torn would it cause the and system to not work after some time and would it also cause problems with the ABS and traction control
the tone ring on the axle snout gives the computer wheelspeed readings
@IntenseBlue318 thanks I also just found out somehow my abs sensor wire broke so that also might be causing it
What brand shaft is that?
What sound were you hearing that made you change it? Dealer said it might be my problem but they didn't fully take apart the car to check
No sound, was tracking a vibration and found them to have slop in them.
My charger was clicking when I turned hard in one direction and replacing both stopped it
Thankss !! This is a similar set up to my Chrysler 300 AWD
yes, same underneath. v6 might be a bit different.
Why didn’t you just pull the hub?
Because it would be way harder to get that out and it still may not leave enough room to get the axle out
@@IntenseBlue318 I was just curious. I have a Charger RT AWD. On my Jeeps and my H3 I was always able to get it through the hub.
What size is the axle nut
Checking into parts for my 2015 Charger. The axle nut ''should'' be 32mm. Since I get to work on so many different cars I just bought axle nut sockets and threw them in my toolbox! I'm a retired maintenance supervisor, don't know how I became everybody's mechanic now!?!
@@dondale68 how much is axle
Replacement for our year charger?
@@dupriesmith7827 If you have time to wait for shipping, try RockAuto for your parts. I've been finding the same MOOG parts at half of what the parts store wants! My Charger has that Automatic All Wheel Drive,, makes it a bitch to find the right parts. Which axle would you be referring to? I've got 4 individual axles!!
@@dupriesmith7827 www.rockauto.com just ordered one for left front AWD, same from 05-20 was $55 with tax n shipping...
How do you identify what kind of axle you have?
Thanks man, you save my life with 300c AWD ;)
Hey...great idea with the block of wood...worked great