Creality Sermoon D1 - Can it Handle ABS?
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- Опубликовано: 14 сен 2021
- Creality3D - bit.ly/3rt4Qbr
Sermoon D1 - bit.ly/2UCVaPu
10 % Off For Sermoon D1 - PattoD1
Creality is a great 3D printer brand and their printer performance has surprised people over and over again. Will this happens again with Creality new Sermoon D1?
And we will test to this printer prints successfully ABS parts.
Leave a comment on what u think about this printer.
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Make a little tent for the top, and maybe it could be great at ABS?
It gets way better once you figure out all the slicer material settings are for a generic bowden tube setup, then change them for a direct drive. I hate the dual filament feed bearings always jamming, I made a part to convert the sermoon to reverse bowden and is much much better. Wish it had a way to calibrate the thermistor. Also the more you use it you will find that the z axis side without the zero switch sags from time to time. When I level the bed if the right side has too much clearance I immediately turn the z axis motor on the right side due to the sag. Badly needs a firmware update, to fix a bunch of minor annoyances. Also wish it had a lid and lights!!! But for the money its a really good printer 9.5/10.
I have a dual z axis printer and one motor turned faster than the other so,I designed and printer some 3 cm arrows which i mounted on the threaded rod. Then I can easily check if both sides are alligned.
@@AverixDeus I have a similar setup now cylinders on top of the screws to gauge if it drifts and slip it back if needed. If the top of the screw is flush with the cylinders is has not creept out of alignment.
Brilliant review! Did you ever experience bed level issues? A few reviewers mentioned that it tends to tilt sideways because the Z axes are not synced together with a belt..
Great job on giving the review. I'm thinking about adding plastic like a piece from a shower liner to help keep the heat in. Do you have the file for the Empire State Building?
Hi where did you buy the Z axis limit switch as mine also came broken
hello how do i calibrate stepper motors?
👏👏👏
LETS PRINT................abs. NICE 👌😂
it is a pitty that the bed is not 300x300 .
You left out some of the other issues this printer has, namely:
- Besides the broken z-axis limit switch, sometimes the printer comes delivered with a bent z-axis stepper motor shaft. Not the screw rod mind you, the actual stepper motor shaft can get bent in shipping because of the poor shipping materials. I had to not only replace that z-axis switch but one of the stepper motors on my D1.
- The dual z-axis servos are not mechanically linked. After you level the printer and power it down the printer can get out of level horizontally.
- The extruder is 'all-metal', but the hot end most certainly IS NOT all metal. There's a PTFE tube inside of it.
- Because of the odd-ball extruder being used there's no drop-in aftermarket parts to upgrade it to a true all-metal design.
- Printer tends to under-extrude even with PLA. You either have to crank the temperature up or you have to slow the print speed to compensate. I have no idea how you managed to get decent prints out of your D1 but I've yet to get anything decent out of mine even using the default Cura settings provided.
- The USB port is mounted *inside* the enclosure. You can hook up an RPi to the system but you need to remove the USB lead going to the side of the display. You will need to do some small modifications to the case if you intend to internally mount that RPi and use a wired Ethernet connection too.
- Some people have been getting convex shaped glass beds (high in the middle). There's some debat that it has more to do with the rail system in use though.
- The filament guide system looks and feels very much like an afterthought.
- The wiring is inconsistent with the sleeving. Half of the cabling is sleeved using an expanded mesh, the rest is not. While in of itself that's not a deal breaker, it makes the wiring look like someone got fed up halfway through sleeving the thing.
These are just the issues I've noticed on my own D1.
When I bought mine I paid full price for it (>$600). For that price I expect a printer that works right out of the box. Granted everything I just outlined is fixable but I really shouldn't have to do that. Thankfully Proper Printing designed parts that let you replace the z-axis rails with a 2020 profile, letting you use standard print heads with the D1. I'm in the middle of modding my D1 printer to get it to the point where it should have been right out of the box, but that's only because I'm trying to salvage this thing.
The worst is firmware. Absolutely no way to pause and resume print. Commands M0, M125, M600, G4 are unknown. M25 does pause but printer hangs :/ No way to find out which layer is printed now (unless connected to OctoPrint). No new firmware since release. No EEPROM.
I would like to throw away this shit-ware and upload regular Marlin... but I'm bit scared of bricking motherboard.
Why would you want to print in abs nowadays though? You can get other materials and even some formulations of PLA that are stronger and they are actually designed to be 3D printed unlike ABS
People who don't like change, are known as "Conservatives".
Can you give some examples for a noob? It would be much appreciated, Im brand new to all of this and considering this printer but want to print some high strength items. Thanks!
@@piconano Cope and seethe. I came here for 3d printing not damn americans making everything super political, and yes both sides are guilty of this shit.
Temperature resistance primarily. Most high temperature thermal plastics are warping seriously like ABS. Yes you can anneal the PLA for even higher temperature stability but you will loose dimensional accuracy though.
what does "100mm per second" means exactly ?
10 cetimeters/sec or one detsimeter/sec..
It means the printer nozzle extrudes 100mm of filament pr second.
@@noxlupi1 that's not true
@@skatepldiy6496 very informative. It means the head can move up to 100mm in one second. And if you need to print 100mm a second, how much fill has to be extruded? Its not like it extrudes 5cm and then stretches that over 10cm...
@@noxlupi1 read again your com bro xD
Would you say that this is a good printer to start with, or are there better ones to choose from for a novice?
Start with an Ender-3. Its a great novice printer that will last you a long time
@@Spartan2035 hear hear
Can agree with the Ender 3. Getting it up and running was cheap with a few modifications like a capricorn ptfe tube and a glass build plate. Even though it takes time and effort to get to a first decent or good quality print, plenty of tutorials and walkthoughs exist making it way easier to figure out the machine. Other alternaives like prusia printers can be better depending on how much effort you want to put in. People I know got more "name brands" for the ease of use or assembly.
@@loneside4912 that's awesome, I'll look into it 👌👍
This printer kicks and ender 3 pants off. I've run the Sermoon 24/7 for three months and have yet to need glue on the bed for anything.
You'll benefit by increasing your retraction and decrease your priming after each retraction.
I watched a YT video entitled "How to Print Thin Wall - Planeprint | Big Bobber" to hone in my printer for single wall printing of R/C aircraft STL files.
They came out perfect after going through his steps. I don't even use Cura and got it to work on Simplify3D.
Also, ABS is old news. Nowadays, there are many better alternatives, like PLA+ or PTEG or many others.
If your gears melt or get hot, the problem is not with PLA. Too much friction and not using a proper lithium white grease, will do that to any plastic.
ABS is hard to get perfect every time, no matter what you do.
Wrong, PLA+ will never be ABS. And its PETG, that clearly is also not ABS. So you full of crap dude, keep it for yourself.
@@CosmicSoundMDB I built my first Rep Rap in 2008. GFYS drunken angry noob.
I rather buy 3 x Creality ender 3 for the same price as this one, and hook them up to Octoprint.
It looks great, but functionally the same as any RepRap. If you put in silent drivers, your get silent printing!
except it is way faster and more stable for tall prints, as it does not rock the bed.
Nothing to do with the printer U don't no how to print with abs properly. Drop your nozzle hight abs like a tighter gap 20 percent fan. The only thing lacking is the hot end temp you need at least 260 to get any good quality and prints. At 250 255 abs comes out to grainy.
abc
An expensive ender 5 with the most nonstandard hotend on a consumer printer....fools and their money.
That English is quite hard to listen to.
As an actual English person I find his accent beautiful
Maybe your English is not good enough?
To me, it is quite ok, relaxing and colorful. Perhaps if you are from the same country as him, it might sound more cringe.
Darko Nikolic, I am pretty sure your ESL sucks as well. I understand him perfectly.
Friend,I really appreciate your work. We are looking for reviewers, would you like to review Longer's 3D printer & laser engraver?