Interesting video, thank you for the review. What sort of speed have you been getting out of this printer? The manufacturer's webpage doesn't seem to have it listed.
I don't tend to optimize for speed. I much prefer reliability. Once I get something that just prints, I leave it that way. This one is set with travel at 120mm/s, wall at 30mm/s, and infill at 60mm/s. That's not optimized. It's just what worked for basic white and gray PLA.
Interesting machine, is it possible to relocate the screen to the outside of the printer? Also if I just made a top cover for this to keep it fully enclosed would that work better?
The problem with limited space in the SD-card can be solved by printing through USB, i routed the cable through filament spool body, it is hollow and works fine as a penetration. I run WIN 10 on my computer and printing through USB was easy., i transferred the settings to original Cura and it has been working fine .
That's a tough question. Since this review, we've printed a LOT using the D1. With the exception of needing to re-level once, it's been a totally reliable beast. We're not doing anything wildly unusual, just a lot of white filament printing the same two or three models over and over (a stand for my wife's hobby). We've probably printed 2-300 of them. But I always like buying products with a super-active aftermarket. There are a lot more add-ons, tutorials, and hacks for the Ender 3. If build area is not a concern, I'd probably go with the Ender just because it's so widely supported. But the D1 has been rock solid.
Let's see. Would a pi 4 running from a big battery hooked up to USB C inside work without cutting holes? I run my pi 4 headless anyway. Oh, but my '4 has a fan. How hot is it in there?
That's an interesting idea. It does get hot in there, but possibly not too hot. Remember, you have what is essentially a heating element spewing 60-70C into the compartment while the printing is happening. 140F is a little high for computer gear, but probably tolerable.
I integrated it in the bottom plate, running 1 power cable through the plexiglas through one of the holes for the cables. Works like a charm. However, you have to disassemble the hole printer if the pi dies. I also added an camera cable to the front left.
I'm just printing in basic PLA and wood PLA. But the nozzle can be replaced, so if you put in a harder nozzle you could probably print harder materials. As for heat, I'm not running it all that hot.
It's not super fast, but we've been printing with it nonstop (for a model my wife needs) for months. Hundreds and hundreds of prints, each about 4-6 hours long.
Sorry but I have to disagree with you. I bought a Sermoon D1 last year and it's been nothing short of a dumpster fire of a printer. Out of the box the z-axis limit switch was broken and worse than that, I had to replace one of the z-axis steppers too because it's shaft was noticably bent in shipping. The ''all metal extruder' is a meaningless marketing gimmick. The actual hot end isn't all metal; it still has a PTFE tube in it. Worse, the hot end is specific to the Sermoon so it's not exactly easy to find replacement parts. Getting back to the z-axis, although there's two z-axis lead screws there's still only one z-axis limit switch so the printer (even though it does have the ability to control the two steppers independently) has no idea when the two sides fall out of level... And fall out of level it shall since the gantry itself is not very rigid. If all you're printing is PLA the printer is 'alright" but the part cooling and heat break fans are too small to cool effectively. It also seems that Creality has been playing with the e-steps on the Sermoon from batch to batch. Even with PLA my printer would horribly underextrude unless I really cranked up the extruder temp. I ended up solving the majority of the issues my Sermoon had by just outright replacing the extruder and modding other parts of the printer that needed it. It would have cost me the same to just buy a better printer from the get go though. Live and learn. The only good thing about the Sermoon D1? It's frame. The frame is great and it's very rigid. Unfortunately the rest of the printer fails to impress, especially for the money.
That's unfortunate. As I mentioned, mine arrived with some connector issues, but since I plugged them in and hot glued them, there's been no problem. We've been running it pretty much nonstop, having printed hundreds upon hundreds of prints. In fact, it's printing right now. I did have an extruder jam, but once I cleared the blockage, it's been back to printing. Definitely reach out to Creality and see if they can get you helped out. Good luck!
omg these videos are love. Definitevely like!
Thanks for the info!
"Ask me how I know" -- not just mountain ranges, but Hill Areas!
Interesting video, thank you for the review. What sort of speed have you been getting out of this printer? The manufacturer's webpage doesn't seem to have it listed.
I don't tend to optimize for speed. I much prefer reliability. Once I get something that just prints, I leave it that way. This one is set with travel at 120mm/s, wall at 30mm/s, and infill at 60mm/s. That's not optimized. It's just what worked for basic white and gray PLA.
Interesting machine, is it possible to relocate the screen to the outside of the printer? Also if I just made a top cover for this to keep it fully enclosed would that work better?
The problem with limited space in the SD-card can be solved by printing through USB, i routed the cable through filament spool body, it is hollow and works fine as a penetration.
I run WIN 10 on my computer and printing through USB was easy., i transferred the settings to original Cura and it has been working fine .
Going through the spool holder is a great idea!
have you had any luck changing filament during print? Ive tried with cura post processing scripts and the D1 doesnt pause the job to change it.
Is there a way to put tension on the belts , i heard there aren't any belt tensioners mounted on this machine ...
If price was not the deciding factor, would you pick this over the ender3?
That's a tough question. Since this review, we've printed a LOT using the D1. With the exception of needing to re-level once, it's been a totally reliable beast. We're not doing anything wildly unusual, just a lot of white filament printing the same two or three models over and over (a stand for my wife's hobby). We've probably printed 2-300 of them. But I always like buying products with a super-active aftermarket. There are a lot more add-ons, tutorials, and hacks for the Ender 3. If build area is not a concern, I'd probably go with the Ender just because it's so widely supported. But the D1 has been rock solid.
Let's see. Would a pi 4 running from a big battery hooked up to USB C inside work without cutting holes? I run my pi 4 headless anyway. Oh, but my '4 has a fan. How hot is it in there?
That's an interesting idea. It does get hot in there, but possibly not too hot. Remember, you have what is essentially a heating element spewing 60-70C into the compartment while the printing is happening. 140F is a little high for computer gear, but probably tolerable.
I integrated it in the bottom plate, running 1 power cable through the plexiglas through one of the holes for the cables. Works like a charm. However, you have to disassemble the hole printer if the pi dies. I also added an camera cable to the front left.
whatva material can print it. ?
nylon carbon ?
I'm just printing in basic PLA and wood PLA. But the nozzle can be replaced, so if you put in a harder nozzle you could probably print harder materials. As for heat, I'm not running it all that hot.
How long does it take to print the Statue of Liberty? Would you recommend this printer to print 100 items in a short period of time?
It's not super fast, but we've been printing with it nonstop (for a model my wife needs) for months. Hundreds and hundreds of prints, each about 4-6 hours long.
Sorry but I have to disagree with you. I bought a Sermoon D1 last year and it's been nothing short of a dumpster fire of a printer.
Out of the box the z-axis limit switch was broken and worse than that, I had to replace one of the z-axis steppers too because it's shaft was noticably bent in shipping.
The ''all metal extruder' is a meaningless marketing gimmick. The actual hot end isn't all metal; it still has a PTFE tube in it. Worse, the hot end is specific to the Sermoon so it's not exactly easy to find replacement parts.
Getting back to the z-axis, although there's two z-axis lead screws there's still only one z-axis limit switch so the printer (even though it does have the ability to control the two steppers independently) has no idea when the two sides fall out of level... And fall out of level it shall since the gantry itself is not very rigid.
If all you're printing is PLA the printer is 'alright" but the part cooling and heat break fans are too small to cool effectively. It also seems that Creality has been playing with the e-steps on the Sermoon from batch to batch. Even with PLA my printer would horribly underextrude unless I really cranked up the extruder temp.
I ended up solving the majority of the issues my Sermoon had by just outright replacing the extruder and modding other parts of the printer that needed it. It would have cost me the same to just buy a better printer from the get go though. Live and learn.
The only good thing about the Sermoon D1? It's frame. The frame is great and it's very rigid. Unfortunately the rest of the printer fails to impress, especially for the money.
That's unfortunate. As I mentioned, mine arrived with some connector issues, but since I plugged them in and hot glued them, there's been no problem. We've been running it pretty much nonstop, having printed hundreds upon hundreds of prints. In fact, it's printing right now. I did have an extruder jam, but once I cleared the blockage, it's been back to printing. Definitely reach out to Creality and see if they can get you helped out. Good luck!
That Yoda yoda you printed is rubbish, miss layers. not great quality.