Cast Lead Bullet Hardness Load Data + REVIEW!!!!!!
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- lee brinell hardness tester, = bhn = load data = good bullet grouping of powder coated bullets. lee brinell hardness tester review and making sense of the information we get from it,
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Please watch: "300 AAC BLACKOUT (bullet chambering) IMPORTANT NEWS............"
• 300 AAC BLACKOUT (bull...
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Man Elvis your a good guy straight up. I can just tell your a blue collar guy looking to help people out. Thanks for making all your videos.
You couldn't be more "spot on " with your investigations Elvis. One of the problems incurring in reloading as well as many other endeavors is not knowing ALL the dynamics of a process and how each part effects the other parts of that process, rather than just working towards the end results. And the underlying dangers that might be present with that process.
A good example of a problem that could happen that you show here is what is referred to as "BARREL RING " . The place inside a cartridge where the pressure spikes or peaks when loaded especially when loaded with a fast burning powder... that results in a ring actually being embedded in a chamber permanently. Had that happen to me in a Marlin 30-30 when I first started loading cast bullets and using faster burning pistol and shotgun powders. Although I will never know for certain, I have always thought that the bullet being too soft for the load, which would go hand in hand with what you are saying about a bullet's max ability to withstand a given pressure. We can never know too much about the little things and their effects on the whole thing.
Thank you for all your efforts.
The only thing I hate is seeing one of your videos 5 years after the fact like this one, lol
HAPPY RELOADING TO YA!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for a “feast” of knowledge. I watched this video months ago and I have watched it again getting more out of it the second time. Your comment of reading a year to have a clue of what you are talking about has truth. Actually,the more I learn, the more I see the ocean of knowledge has no bottom. That is why I am challenged by this artistic and satisfying hobby.
Yes this hobby is simple, all the way to very complex. Challenging to say the least. Go as far as you want and never reach the end! : ) In another year you can watch some of the same videos and understand something completely different based on your experience! This is an awesome hobby!!! Thanks for commenting, and Happy Reloading, Casting , shooting!
Thank you Elvis. I have watched this video 3 times. A ton of valuable information. This should be mandatory watching for anyone 'rolling their own'!
This is science folks! The variables are real! Psi, heat, duration, bhn all play in the workup of a load... Thanks Elvis! Keep your revolver brass warm!
Ok, wow. Now my eyes are spinning. I'm new to reloading, and I never thought there was so much to it. I need to do much more research. I am going to enjoy that, it appeals to my curiosity. You blinded me with science. Science! Great video.
hey Jim, I like the you blinded me with science! it's not as complicated as it might sound to do your reloading. ....don't let any of this make your head spin, it is only further knowledge. I recommend a book to help. "modern reloading " by Richard Lee. and don't let the book complicate things for ya either. just know in the process of reloading you will always learn more and more but never everything. just keep it simple have fun and be safe..... happy memorial day! and thanks for watching and commenting! !! : )
You'll be fine. For most of the common pistol loads, lead which a #2 pencil doesn't scratch is just hard enough. I like to shoot rifle and very hot pistol loads, so better testers are handy, but a pencil will do for most people.
+GunFun ZS hey gunfunzs, yea I've never tried the pencil method before, I have always done the thumbnail trick, it works ok, this tester saves my thumbnails! none of the testers I can count on. to be sure you would have to mix your own from a known alloy. . the best I can tell? it all seems to jive pretty well with the results is the main thing. takes just a little work. thanks Gunfunzs for taking the time to comment! !!! happy reloading to ya!
Watch this video many years ago. It got me into getting a Lee hardness tester. What I learned using this tester is I was wasting resources that were antimony and tin. As I was casting too hard of a bullet unnecessarily.. I was casting around 1516 BHN when realistically I only needed around 12 since I was Powdercoating. Light target loads for 9 mm up to 1000 ft./s. 124 grain up to 150 grain.. I probably could’ve continued casting 15 BHM, but the resources like I said I was wasting was wasteful in the long run.
Very great video and your explanation starts the creative juices flowing. Very well done and I really appreciate what you do for us. God bless you.
Thanks Elvis- Great information I went out and got me a Lee hardness tester and I have had fun seeing the difference in alloys, water quenching etc. The info on pressure has also been helpful, along with powder burn rates
Awesome video Elvis! Really enjoyed this one.. Fixing to head over to Midway and order one! And the other information is going to be very helpful as well as I have not really considered looking at the pressures indicated in my Lyman manual. So thats awesome! I'm working my way through your videos and have really been enjoying them. Its nasty and rainy here now so its a great time to learn and reload! Thanks so much man! Happy New Year!
What you're saying is pretty simple...work up the load check signs of over pressure, check cases for any abnormalities, and if you can't do that you run the risk of blowing your gun hands and possibly face off! You are totally right about the many variables thats why experienced handloaders say no matter what work up the load and see what works for YOUR GUN it can be the same rifle model from the same manufacturer and they'll shoot differently with the same load my friend in his late 60's has been handloading for longer than I've been breathing and he will tell me to work on the perfect load what'll work for his marlin 336 30-30 might not be the magic number charge and powder primer combo as his he says every single gun is different in that way and I think thats a true statement even in the same model gun from the same manufacturer your friend may not clean his rifle as often or has had it for a year longer so there is more wear on the parts its hard to pinpoint exactly what'll work for you won't work for farmer Fred's exact same rifle shotgun pistol...
Great video! Good down to earth explanation of lead hardness, and pressure. Thanks.
Really informative video. Thank you so much for what you do Elvis. Been reloading for a very long time , But just started playing with cast bullets. Anyway, Thanks again and have a great Christmas !!
hey Rodney Hardee... thanks for taking the time to comment. . your very welcome! Happy casting to ya my friend!
You are a knowledgeable man. Good information!
Very very helpful. Thank you Elvis. The Lee tester would be very helpful when you are working up. Lead mixtures for a certain bernell hardness.
Elvis Ammo you sure got a lot of miles out of that little inexpensive single stage press.. Thumbs up.
I appreciate seeing you screw up. It makes you human. You are a good teacher. Lee makes good equipment and I have a lot of it though I also have Lyman and other manufacturers. I hope they all understand we share information for our common good and safety. Dr. K
Thanks again Elvis ver insightful
Excellent informational video Thanks Elvis
Did you take a wrong turn somewhere? We were looking at BHN and testing the bullet to determine its number. Then you dropped that and went to pressures, velocities and powders. I got lost somewhere. Not understanding why we even tested the BHN as the value was no longer used. Correct me if I am wrong, as the IDEAL BHN for pistol bullets is 16, due to velocities near 950fps. Magnums LESS THAN 1750fps ideal BHN is 18. Rifle rounds above 1750 up to 2100fps the BHN should still only be 20.Your tested bullet was way over any of those. Looks like a .356 9mm to me. Should be BHN 16. Lead that is too soft or too hard will cause problems/leading and non-accurate rounds. I beg of you to read the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. Your test showing high 20's BHN are NOT accepted by Lyman. You have given great information for years, and I have watched and learned from you. You are mistaken about BHN hardness per Lyman. 15-20 are the magic numbers. I am only trying to be helpful. What I understand from Lyman Cast Bullet is I cast bullets to achieve a specific BHN before I do anything else. Auto pistols 15. Rifles 18. THEN I experiment with loads, powders, velocities etc. Only AFTER a controlled BHN. God Bless. I hope to hear your ideas on this. Again, you are one of the best!
Master Class, Elvis!
I have been trying for awhile to determine the hardness of 500 lbs. of old cast net leads. They've all come from China the last 20 or so years . After playing around with them , they seem to be around the same hardness of wheel weights probably from the same place. A riddle wrapped in an enigma wrapped in a conundrum surrounded by mystery . Like I said, the torture never stops.
Lee.."line it up on the flat spot "
Me.."my head dont fit in my press"
This is another useful tool in our tool box. More info .
I got more out of that than all of the reloading videos I've ever seen put together.
All this is good, but take the next step. In Lee's 2nd edition loading manual, correction factors are provided so that you can step-down your powder charge so as to match the chamber pressures you determine from the Hardness Tester [ref: chapters 9 and 10]. That is your real starting point for working up loads.
Great vid as always, I just started testing my lead
I didn't watch the whole thing, but The discussuion at 11:30 or so is the key information. I think Lyman does their customers a major disservice by still publishing data and their cast lead book relating hardness to velocity. Conventional lubricant performance does have a direct link to velocity and barrel length, but not harness.
Excellent insight
Hey Jusgeen83 Reloading... Thanks for watching!
Thank you for having such an informative channel.
The way I have been loading my lead cast powder coated bullets
is I start with the lightest load the Lyman book calls for as a starting load for the powder I am using then increase powder load till accuracy starts falling off or till the barrel starts to lead. Then I find a happy medium favoring on accuracy at distance.
hey Tony Lara.. yhea that's about what I do as well. I don't remember really having any accuracy issue, but I usually work it up to go just beyond where the handgun will cycle without any problem. . after all I use it for practice and plinking. .. thanks for commenting! !!!
That works, but Lyman's load data is all very mild, in velocity, but not necessarily optimized for pressure. Lee's book gives you a broader range of pressure data and for many loads a way to calculate approximate pressure for reduced loads. This is a big help for choosing a powder which will give you more velocity for a given pressure. i.e. fastest velocity a particular hardness of bullet can handle. It tends to be far faster than what people working off the lyman recipes can achieve with good performance.
Thank you. Thank you very much. [Elvis voice]
Once again, I learned something from one of your videos. I never made the connection between pressure, bullet limits, and accuracy. Thank you for sharing the information you have. Now that I'm going to start casting 300 blackout bullets from the lee 312-155 mold per your suggestion, I've been trying to decide whether or not to gas check with the powder coating. I guess I've got some work to do. I have been loading m80 pulls (147gr fmj) over 16.2 +/- .2gr of first IMR 4227 and now Hodgdon lil gun. Looking through the pressure lists, it looks like that load is nowhere near what is going to work. We have already made over 200lbs of wheel weight ingots (all clip on, separated the stick on pure lead weights and made separate ingots), already have the 6 bullet mold, already have the lee 4-20 bottom pour melting pot, building a pid controller, etc. almost there... I have been looking at wheel weight typical hardness when water dropped, and it looks to be between 15-18bhn. That's good for 21k-26k psi. I can't find a powder that's going to make that at even the minimum load. Any suggestions, Elvis?
Hey Kettenhund75.. Since reloading is an end results matter...There is little changes we all make that changes the outcome.. With powdercoating and some differences in lead alloys we seem to cheat the system a bit. For one thing, The clip on wheel weights water quenched will give ya somewhere between 18 and 26. i've recorded up to 29 and 30 bhn! not as common. With the loads you mentioned you will have no issues that I can tell. I shot those in my last video, Gas checked and not. I get mixed results. I have been working on a powdercoating method that will allow us to bake the coating without heating and softening our bullets. More info later!
I have the lyman book.. so I was checking as you read it... The lyman book had the pressure listed in CUP... LEE lists it in PSI.... THERE IS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO!!!
bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/09/cup-vs-psi-do-you-understand-the-difference/
The torture never stops...
Excellent Point. They are not equal or interchangeable Values. They do correlate, ie as one increases so does another.
Elvis pointed out that there is no one method of determining what is best or correct. The Powder manufacturers published data is key. The Brinell Test is good for letting you know if you have a good hardness for expansion (Hollow Point or Flat Nose Bullets) or for deep penetration ( Spitzer or Round ball type Bullets). So like Elvis pointed out start low and work up loads using the Powder Manufacturers data.
Reloading is like baseball. You try your best and if you bat 300 your one of the best. We tinker with loads, bullets, powders, BHN, COAL, etc and strike out a great deal. A Reloader enjoys his failures as part of the game and goes back at it again. It is challenging and rewarding in this way.
From SAAMI:
Q: What is the difference between LUP, CUP and PSI pressure designations?
A: For many years gun chamber pressure units had been commonly referred to as “pounds per square inch”, which was not technically correct. The older method of pressure measurement involves a piston through the side of the chamber compressing a lead or copper cylinder in which the measurement of the degree of compression is indicative of the maximum relative pressure generated. With the advent of the electronic transducer, it became necessary to indicate by some means the method and equipment used to determine the pressure values given. This is important, since the pressure values determined by one method cannot be mathematically converted to values for another, despite claims to the contrary. Likewise, the limiting pressure values for the different systems are not interchangeable.
SAAMI created the designations of “Lead Units of Pressure” (abbreviated LUP) and “Copper Units of Pressure” (abbreviated CUP) to clearly indicate the system used in determining pressure results and/or limits. These designations apply only to values with the particular crushers, test gages and methods as outlined in SAAMI technical procedures. The terms LUP and CUP represented a change in name only. The pressure testing equipment, techniques and the numbers themselves are essentially the same as those associated with pressure units expressed as so many “pounds per square inch” prior to the advent of the piezoelectric transducer method. The term “psi” (pounds per square inch) is now reserved for electronic (piezoelectric) methods of measuring pressure, which is the predominant system in use today.
By convention, units of pressure are reduced by a factor of 100 when put in tabular form. For example, 100 LUP is actually 10,000 LUP. 480 CUP is actually 48,000 CUP and 220 psi is actually 22,000 psi.
Page 4 of 22
saami.org/PDF/FAQ.pdf
Once again Great video Elvis. I don't know much, but, there is a correlation between speed and Boolit hardness. I don't think you would be wanting to run a boolit of 24 of bhn down the bore of say a 45acp at 900 fps. Just too hard for that speed.In a rifles thats kool. What I'd like, need, to know is if PCing a Boolit will allow a softer Boolit in a rifle at 2800-3200 fps to be used. Being that the Boolit now has a hard coating on it , instead of just lube.I have had problems with some of my mag. handgun rounds leading the bores. Even with a chamber an sized round at .002 over bore dia. Hoping the PC Boolit will help me out there.
What is a good all around hardness for a lead bullet
Good video thanks a lot if you get a chance I would love to hear some more information about mixing the lead like using 100% lead and mixing from there thanks again
I've already tested my lead hardness, but I don't believe the listed max pressures or max velocities because 22LR ammo is basically pure lead and that shoots faster than 1200 fps from a rifle. The point I'm at right now is determining the most efficient loadings and calibers. Using the bullet weight and tested velocity with a chronograph I can determine what the kinetic energy is. I divide the kinetic energy by how many grains of gun powder was used and I end up with how many ft lbs energy I get per grain of gun powder. After testing several different bullets in several different calibers using several different powders I've determined that 300 BLK is the most efficient. I get 97 ft lbs energy per grain of gun powder and 30 yards range per grain of gun powder. I determine range by what distance the projectile drops below the speed of sound and divide that number by the grains of gun powder used. Hornady has a free ballistic calculator where it'll tell you the trajectory and velocity at different ranges after you enter in the ballistic coefficient, bullet weight, velocity, etc. Currently this most efficient load is using a homemade lead and powder coated bullet using the Lyman 311410 mold and Longshot gun powder. If I buy my primers on sale for 2 cents each and the powder on sale for $22 per lb the total cost per shot is only 7 cents because I'm using free 223 brass that I converted into 300 BLK brass and because I get wheel weights from my local junk yard for only 20 cents per pound. You would probably have a hard time finding 22LR ammo for 7 cents and I'm able to make 30 caliber semi auto centerfire rifle ammo that has 1000 ft lbs energy at the muzzle and 300 yards supersonic range. Not bad if you ask me. That's why I like reloading. It enables me to be able to tinker around and find the best " bang " for my buck.
hey there prepare2survive...... sounds like you have a pretty good system there, I agree the max pressure is probably conservative, not to mention you can have greater velocity with the same pressure using different powders, that longshot your using with 300 blkout, man that's a fast powder, sounds interesting! I pay the same as you for my wheel weights and lose 20-25 % to zink and steel. here in sc. it's rare I shoot anything else. I can shoot any caliber for less than a 22lr..... however I did for the first time in a long time buy some 22lr the other day at accademy 500 for 25 bucks, I felt like doing a little dance! thanks for all the insight, I love it when someone makes me pull out the books!!!! All ways preparing to survive! ! thanks....
+elvis ammo I factored into my cost calculations the lost 25% from the wheel weight clips and some being zinc, steel, plastic or stick on types. I also factor into the calculations the cost for the powder coating and the electricity bill. Last time I bought any 22LR ammo was back in 2011. It was a federal value pack 375 for $9.99 The longshot powder is somewhat fast burning for a rifle, but it's not a whole lot faster than IMR 4227 and that's used in probably all the different lead rifle reloading data. I started to notice that 357 magnum and 300 BLK data was almost identical and because longshot data is available for 357 mag I decided to try it for 300 BLK. It turned out to work great. The case capacity for 300 BLK and 357 magnum is almost identical too. Because they are so similar I started calling 300 BLK my semi auto 357 magnum carbine.
+Prepare2Survive man I'll tell ya, I think I learn more from some of the comments than the info I put out on the videos! get the books out again! : ) thanks again , prepare2survive. ........
Great video Elvis
Okay so if the bullet is too soft it'll deform putting gas is leak by and burning a hole through the side of a bullet or possibly allow the rifling to strip off the sides of the bullet and not work properly, and if the bullet is too hard it will not expand to seal the chamber and gas will again leak by.
So what is the deal with gas checks on the back of bullets?
If the bullet is too soft but you have a gas check preventing the gas from bleeding by how does that affect a bullet that's either too hard or too soft?
Great videos, i have a bunch of ingots made out of wheel weights i want to start casting my own bullets 9mm. Do i have to add tin or can i just add some antimony?
Elvis Ammo .. Did you misspeak when you quoted the .046 from the microscope? Aren't you suppose to count the increments and them multiply by .002 and then reference the matrix provided by Lee?
I have found that for 223, that powder coating removes the need for copper caps and increases the pressures that the lead bullets can withstand.... what is your experience?
hey kkawbohr.... yes I think there is an increase, I rarely ever use gas checks, I like being in the habit of making what I have work! (the self reliant part of me) powder coat is still so new, there is a lot to be learned, but it's safe to say that it can withstand more pressure and velocity. definitely a fun learning curve! that information is backed up by others and their experiences as well. thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! !
what makes x do you use to get a 24 for your .223?
Elvis awesome video very informative I have a question can you sell 556 bullets already made say 3000 rounds let me know thanks buddy
At first he counted 30 seconds in 18 seconds, then he went and held it to 25 seconds, LOL
Time to start shopping for a flavorful brand of decaf coffee?
How about a serious question/idea for a future video?
About a crossover round like .357 or .44 magnum, used both in a pistol and rifle, and you said rifle (long barrel) use slower powder and pistol (short barrel) uses faster powder, but the reloading books (Modern Reloading 2nd edition) use the pistol data in the rifle section and I have yet to see a pistol round used for rifles that uses a rifle powder, and the info for .223 is also listed as a pistol round, but still uses the rifle data!
Are they being lazy or just trying to feed us hogwash?
BTW love your videos.
archangel20031 im fairly new to reloading (1.5 years) but my guess would be the powder burn rate could be the main reason.
Loading 220 grain .308 w/ ford light blue powder coat as the video plays .
👍👍👍👍🖐
Also how fast can that hardness of lead go before it starts leading and it seems like you're onto something about getting it close to the maximum pressure it can withstand to get a good seal in the bore I would have never thought of that
Question question actually. The maximum pressure is published in the matrix included with the hardness tester from Lee.
I have some pure lead and some plumbers lead solder bars, will a combination of these work I’m assuming the solder bars have a lot of tin in.
castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?105952-Lead-alloy-calculators
I found a alloy calculator that I use, it's a very good spreadsheet....but you will need to use the lee hardness tester to get a starting point of what BHN your mixing alloys are at. Lead is relatively cheap to come by, weather it's ww or range scrap. But what we want to Conserve is the Tin & Antimony. Why waist them because we're casting bullet that are too hard when it isn't necessary, I follow Fortune cookies rule & it been VERY successful w/ Absolutely 100% NO leading. Including 44 rem mag loads @ 1400fps.
BHN 12. up to 850fps max.
15 / 16. 1000 fps.+/- 200fps
17 / 18. 1700 fps.
20. / 21. 2100 fps.
emjartan45acp thank you very much.
Get some Foundry Type Alloy from Rotometals.com it's BHN is 30. Using the Alloy calculator i sent you. To get a BHN of 12, mix 10Lbs off pure lead to 2Lbs of Foundry Type. Which is perfect for 45acp/45LC or 38spl. For Auto pistol go with BHN 15/16. 10Lbs PL(pure lead) to 4Lbs. FT (FoundryType) its good up to +P 9MM. For some Heavy Magnum pistols 10Lb PL to 5Lb FT = BHN 17. I know it's a lot to take in but there's no simple answer when mixing alloys. But I would definitely recommend using the calculator and the Lee lead hardness tester. If you're into casting or thinking about getting into it those items are key to success.
Excellent information
Have you ever heard of using solder to blend lead to make it harder? Thanks Ron Tenn357
How do you load ammo with cast bullets that come out of the mold at 3 gr over the data
if it`s posibile you could put a lead ingot and more under the lee hardnesstester ,and make your melt as you wish..
hey there peteralexben, yes sir, you can test the lead ingot on its own as well. .. good hearing from ya again!
Awesome video.
Great video dude
thanks.... way2go. ....
Great Video. Question: Have you personally found that you can use softer lead when you powder coat?
hey Tom,, good hearing from ya, my pistol calibers are a little bit too hard to begin with, so out of laziness or because I have more of the harder alloy than pure lead lead. and I choose to hold on to my pure lead stash, Just in case I go on a shot gun reloading spree! I guess. I haven't softened my lead. my mix is working I guess is the real answer. my experience with the rifle pc bullets is that they still need to be pretty stiff w/o a gas check. .. so I just keep them down to where they perform good.....
Elvis after powder coating soft lead do you get leading in barrel.
Have you rapid fired multiple mags out of your ar with fostech trigger using your reloads?
How much does the heating of the lead in powder coating change the hardness of the lead?
I also want to know
It doesn’t.
You forgot to say Mississippi after each count lol
Oh by the way GREAT Video thanks.
thanks again Tony Lara..... happy reloading!
Whats a good goldilocks bhn for 45acp and 9mm?
Hey Vanilla Gorilla... Just my opinion around 14 But i've seen a bit lower work as well. Ideal. Happy shooten brother!
So here is my question on hardness.... I'm reloading cast bullets and don't have access to wheel weights. Tin is hard to get without paying a fortune for shipping. It has been said that powder coating has brinell hardness of 22. I use powder coated bullets in my muzzleloaders just cuz, not for leading, but I'm now starting to load 44 special/mag and .223 55 grain bullets. In your opinion, will properly sized powder coated bullets of PURE LEAD survive typical loadings to 2200 to 2400 fps?
One thing I learned, by the way, of gas checks, at lower velocity, that is under 2000 fps, is that a gas check bullet behind a leaded bore will absolutely clean it up, usually after the first shot, at most after the third. I'm contemplating not using gas checks on my 223, but then again... if I'm using pure lead, how safe do you think I'd be with powder coat and or without gas checks... not to put you on a spot ...
Much Aloha,
hey Tom Lodge.... Rotometals.com is the place to go for linotype and other additives to help your lead. free shipping and great prices... you cant hurt anything if you want to try shooting pure lead powdercoated.. the worst can happen is the bullet don't go where you want it! But you must report back and let me know how it went. The Details! As far as shooting with out a gas check, I never do use checks. I don't think it will break the powdercoat. again the worst , the bullet don't fly straight! Some people tend to believe you can shoot the pure lead with powder coated bullets! Hope this helps!
Thank you.. Rotometals is indeed the place... Hawaii is still Hawaii..
I'll try both with and without #2 alloy and let you know what I discover.
I called Eastwood and asked them of the composition of the rest of their powders, as opposed to that Ford blue you're so fond of :).. and it's pretty much the same with the rest of the colors.
+Tom Lodge cool! thanks for letting me know that! and I can't wait to hear back on how ya did! good luck to ya!
good video
Bonjour E.A, if you powder coat your bullets how important is the hardness? I'm going to cast and PC 9mm & 45acp next month. Since seeing your video on quick PC I bought powder and a mini oven. Just need to get casting. Thank for all the BS free videos.
hey Bzhprepper, bonjour! I think that most of the powdercoat community agrees that the bullet is more durable, but. using a proper mix of alloy in the lead is still important. Bullets don't do ya much good if they leave the barrel nice and clean, but deform and tumble through the air. we'll leave the pure lead for the shotgun slugs. Still a lot to be learned about how durable pc makes the bullets. ( maybe I'll test some pure lead pc bullet ) hope this helps ..... HAPPY POWDER COATING AND CASTING!
Merci mon pote. I've been mixing 50% pure 40% wheel weights and 10% pewter for 38spl, 9mm and 45 acp. All target loads, nothing hot. For 44mag, 357 mag I've been doing 90% wheel weights and 10% pewter, then water dropping. Soooo much to learn, even after 10 years of casting!!! Thanks again for all the hard work you do giving us these videos. BZH
+BZHprepper bonjour Bzhprepper I use 12 pounds of wheel weights to 3 pounds of pure lead for hand guns, but I think I could add a little more pure lead if I wanted to. Just habit. As long as the bullet works. there is no reason to change it. Thanks for watching and commenting! !!!!! happy powder coating! !!
I did a test of this. Even with softest lead possible in full house 30-06, no leading. However, you still need your lead alloy to be within the Lee formula range to get good groups due to deformation under stress of acceleration or if really bad, even stripping the engraving. You also still need proper sizing relative to the bore.
I've been doing 50/50 then annealing and water dropping by the whole batch and getting pretty consistent 14-16 BHN that way. Now though I haven't seen clip on wheel weights in months.
Does lead hardness have anything to do with bullet weight ,my 200 grain lee mold is casting 210 to 215 weight bullets
Yes, but you should check base of bullets and powder coating adds up some too.
Not hardness exactly… your alloy mix will.. and your alloy mix will change your hardness. Pure lead will be heavier and softer. Alloys will be lighter and harder
greeting, can You tell me what causes tumbling bullets in the air, soft or hard lead? thank you
hey Shooter Ilok.... several factors can be the cause... More specific information would be helpful. handgun , rifle, caliber, Bullet type? But pushing the bullet too slow, or even too fast can do it... Seating depth, and the bullet style can be the problem... And if the bullet don't make contact with the rifling... (to small)... I don't want to make this sound complicated cause it's not... But. bullet weight and barrel twist rate is a factor...If this don't answer your question ... maybe you can give me more info.... Thankyou for watching...!
no, thank you for your advice and video.. I changed the manufacturer and bullet mold form, as well as gunpowder..i also began coating the lead bullets...also source of lead ( I did not know that there is a difference in hardness between ww clip on and stick on lead ), but in general if evething else is ok, can soft or hard lead cause tumbling, or just if it is to soft or to hard? P.S. I shooting a 9mm CZ
+Shooter Ilok ... I shoot cz75 and P07. with soft and hard lead... with beautiful results ... 6 inch steel dueling tree flags from 10-15 yrds. although I find sizing to .356 works best. and lead around the 15 bhn mark. if for some reason you don't get the very best results. shooting a fmj . once in a while and when your done shooting, cleans what little fouling right out!
+Shooter Ilok my go to 9mm from the lee 124 gr tl. bullet oal 1.125 4.2 gr. hp38 also 700x and tight group. . I've not found a bad powder ... I use standard fmj data near max but not over. from lyman data book.. this is powdercoat bullets I'm referring to. I'm curious what bullets your having trouble with?
it will be a little lengthy text, contact me please on my mail shooterilok@gmail.com
I will gladly write you all..
I've been casting for 9mm, I shoot them in my polymer 80 (glock 19) . My lead, unfortunately, I let it get softer over the years because I added too much soft lead. Now, when I shoot these reloads, I get a lead ring that builds up just before the lans/grooves inside the chamber. I have to pick it out very frequently or the slide will not go into battery. I think if my boolits were harder, it would not do this. I also PC the boolits, but that does not keep these softer ones form doing this "lead ring" at the throat. I'm thinking I should add some more tin and antimony to my alloy. My ingot pot holds about 40lbs of lead, How much antimony should I add back in per pot after cleaning? Where's the best place to get antimony? Any tips/tricks you can offer? Thanks
@jeremiah adams Hello Jeremiah, yes I solved it! With much help from castboolits and others like Fortune Cookie and Elvis. Basically I downloaded the brinnel hardness spreadsheet from castboolits and calculated I needed a minimum hardness of 15'ish or better. So I figured out for my lead batch I needed 2.7 lbs or antimony and 1 lb of tin. Ordered from Roto Metals. Test fired a bunch, no lead ring, perfect operation. Worked as well a FMJ in my G48 and G19. I'm a happy camper now. I just need to make sure I don't "thin out" my alloy going forward.
Hey, I have been given 75 pounds of lead ingots,none of which were labeled,so hardness is only a guess,except for color or thumbnail testing,I have the lee hardness tester and plan to log each ingots hardness.now what I don't yet understand is the melting recipe,in my case my mold is a lee 200grain rnfp,with 5 grains of AA# 2 for 45 acp. What is a good starting hardness starting point? The difficulty is some of the lead may be Lyman #2, some maybe wheel weights or Linotype or pure lead.what would you suggest?? Still confused.
hey Edad, with all those considerations to make you could just give it to me!!!! : ) and if that's out of the question, : ( the next question will they be pc or lubed. I take it you will shoot it from a revolver? do you size the bullet or not? the good news is that these questions and answers aren't extremely important because the 45cal don't care as much as some other calibers. ...My bet is they shoot just fine!
+elvis haha no I'll keep the lead but thanks .
+Edad Martin Oh Darn...... best thing to do is just make a couple hundred bullets with your mold , If you get results. .. Go back and cast all you want.. no worries!
+elvis ammo I like that no bs approach,no sense making it harder that it is.i can't remember it anyway,lol
+Edad Martin If you follow to many rules you won't be able to experiment, if you don't experiment than you won't be able to teach someone else what you learned in the process! the no bs is definitely the way to go! thanks for noticing. .... : )
so im powder coating now... am i a idiot for just going by weight?
Just dump on a bunch of powder and sift off the excess. Or do you mean bullet weight? Bullet hardness is still necessary for two reasons. It has to be soft enough to obturate and make a good gas seal. It has to be hard enough to spring back so as not to be warped under acceleration. Basically if it is too soft you will get crap accuracy, but you will avoid leading at least.
GunFun ZS ive watched your vids... you currently a shotshell reloader?
what mix of lead do you use to get your 24 on your .223?
Thanks
I'm in the same game. I have big hands too. Being dyslexic dosent help. Have you ever tried to reload 17 Remington. Next to impossible. I had to use tweezers to place the bullet. I used the black plastic funnels that doctors use on the ear scope to charge the cases with powder. I'm not a watch maker😀
Those little suckers scream. 4200 fps and a pain to shoot. I had to push a patch down the barrel every 5 rounds or so. Just a few pieces of powder can screw things up quick.
14:50
Circumlocution
Lol 😂 ppffrrtt