i know when rebuilding these carbs they recomend zero-ing out the bleeder screws then turning them out about 1.5 turns as a starting point. BUT whats a zero-ed out stated of the choke adjustments look like? Context; i just bought a 76 F150 with 360/390 stock carb. it had a bad off idle stumble when i got it, so i decided to rebuild it. The FULE filter at the carb was overflowing with large grain rust, so i replaced it with a new one AND a see thru one pre pump.[note after just blowing out the old filter i could see thru it so i kept it] now with carb rebuilt im having trouble getting the choke to work AND also not keep high idle and slam into gear. if i get the idle slow enough then i have ot feather throttle for a minute on cold start cuz choke isnt right. Note; my heater tube from manifold is broke off like you mentioned., SO can i get this working for a spring/summer /fall truck w/o buying a warming tube or electric choke by just using the stock bracket to hold the htr core tubes against choke? How do i zero out the adjustment screws on choke to start getting it set up? ive already removed all unnecessary vac hoses and plugged everything off except brakes, dist and tranny. also need to plug warm tube hole like yuo mentioned
Forgot to mention, now with carb reinstalled, the stumble seemed to be gone at first but is coming back, not as bad as before. my prepump filter seems clean { i just did a comression test too and found why i have a miss, most cylinders are 95-110 but number 4 is 75-82ish] Will that affect the stumbble?
Nothing to zero on the choke. Place the thermostat onto the housing and then hold the throttle open a bit then twist the cap until the choke valve closes. Tighten it there.
i know when rebuilding these carbs they recomend zero-ing out the bleeder screws then turning them out about 1.5 turns as a starting point.
BUT whats a zero-ed out stated of the choke adjustments look like?
Context; i just bought a 76 F150 with 360/390 stock carb.
it had a bad off idle stumble when i got it, so i decided to rebuild it.
The FULE filter at the carb was overflowing with large grain rust, so i replaced it with a new one AND a see thru one pre pump.[note after just blowing out the old filter i could see thru it so i kept it]
now with carb rebuilt im having trouble getting the choke to work AND also not keep high idle and slam into gear.
if i get the idle slow enough then i have ot feather throttle for a minute on cold start cuz choke isnt right.
Note; my heater tube from manifold is broke off like you mentioned.,
SO can i get this working for a spring/summer /fall truck w/o buying a warming tube or electric choke by just using the stock bracket to hold the htr core tubes against choke?
How do i zero out the adjustment screws on choke to start getting it set up?
ive already removed all unnecessary vac hoses and plugged everything off except brakes, dist and tranny. also need to plug warm tube hole like yuo mentioned
Forgot to mention, now with carb reinstalled, the stumble seemed to be gone at first but is coming back, not as bad as before. my prepump filter seems clean
{ i just did a comression test too and found why i have a miss, most cylinders are 95-110 but number 4 is 75-82ish]
Will that affect the stumbble?
@@WilliamMunny-d8s A cylinder that low will cause all kinds of problems including a stumble.
@@WilliamMunny-d8s Getting the rust stuff probably means a dirty gas tank.
Nothing to zero on the choke. Place the thermostat onto the housing and then hold the throttle open a bit then twist the cap until the choke valve closes. Tighten it there.