Intake Manifold for VW and Audi 2.0T TSI DIY Replacement ~ Gen 3 EA888
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- In this video I will show you how to remove and replace the intake manifold on VW and Audi TSI engines. This is the generation 3 EA888 engine. You can also use this intake manifold DIY for the 1.8t TSI engine. They are very similar to replace. If you need to clean carbon on intake valves, or replace a TSI fuel injector, this is your step by step DIY replacement on a VW intake manifold.
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Disclimer:
The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between the Humble Mechanic and you. Every situation may be different, and the Humble Mechanic does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. The Humble Mechanic and any sponsors of this video will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk.
I used this video to replace my intake manifold after getting runner position faults. Took much longer than 4 hrs but everything is working correctly and I saved $1000 by doing it myself!
Just bought a 2016 Audi A6 with 105k miles. I do most of my own work and it's videos like this that make me even more confident, thank you Charles for an awesome vide. While the A6 isn't exactly like the VW, it's still a gen 3 and close enough. The A6 had never had the valves cleaned before and you could tell. Luckily the redesigned PCV helped. Only had rough idle on cold start but better to do a quick cleaning before it gets worse.
UPDATE: After I got it back together, started right up and took for a test drive. Felt like it still wasn't idling quite right. Went about my day and was cleaning up tools and found the intake manifold slides sitting on my table...DOH! Only took a little over an hour to tear it apart and put the partitions back in and bold everything back up. So easy to work on.
its better to do it every 80k miles, also oil cooler gaskets before they leak
After botching a boost tap install (ECS instructions didn't call for warming up the engine before attempting to make the hole so I wound up popping a dime sized slug into the manifold) I wanted to cry. Tried vacuuming the piece out with a skinny attachment and pantyhose over the tip, no dice. With no other options I went out and bought some silicon spray and a large pick for the boost pipe. I watched this video at least 10 times. Ran through all the steps (minus the fuel rail steps) and was able to remove the piece, reinstall the manifold and finish installing my valved exhaust. Thank you for your amazing videos and meticulous detail. Sometimes I watch videos for cars that I don't even own, lol. You're that good!!!!
Sir - you've done an incredible service to the community in making such a thorough video along with all the helpful links you've provided. I'll be undertaking the install of a euro manifold in coming weeks and I know that this will be an invaluable resource. THANK YOU MAN!
I’ll never do this myself but wow! You’re descriptions are super clear and easy to follow. Thanks for sharing 👍👍
The amount of plastic parts on this motor is insane.
ALL THE PLASTIC! LOL
VAG takes planned obsolescence to a whole other level for that matter.
Buckle up, it's all manufactures. we will see more not less. :/
@@HumbleMechanic sad but true.
Toyota has been using plastic intakes since the mid 2000s, nothing new
Other vids I’ve seen of this job have left me feeling overwhelmed. Your vid makes it seem doable. Thanks!
I was waiting for 'and now let's pull the engine out - it'll give you a big more wiggle room' 😄
Thanks a ton for this video. I would never have tackled this without your video.
The big highlights are the removal of the manifold. It is important to "rotate" the manifold counter clockwise on removal to avoid the cam angle sensor, and the high pressure fuel line. Otherwise you will be trying to get it out to no avail.
Also, I did not remove the triple square 10mm for the support bracket. I have a very thick core, stock location intercooler upgrade. It would have been next to impossible to remove and install the bolt. I simply used the removal stud to raise the manifold to get it out, and carefully realigned the manifold on install to allow the coarse threaded stud to mate with the threaded location.
Super good video for those looking to install port injection. You gotta get on that, HM! Even the stock ROW setup would be great for keeping those valves clean.
Thank you Charles for this, saved me a ton of time.. That lower bracket #10 Triple square bolt to the block is a huge pain in the ass. Took several different combinations of extensions and different bits to get it on and off, easily the hardest part.
Lmao! Spot on! Man I played with 10 different extensions and ratchets before I found the magic combo. It’s hard to see too. If you remove the fan it would be easier but that’s a bigger hassle. The lower hole on the intake requires a small t30. The cheap set of torx I have are fat sockets lol. That’s was another hurdle finding something small enough to fit. That lower Triple square is a real patience tester!
You make this job seem so much easier. My B7 Passat needs this bad, and I was about to pay a shop to do it. Think I'll do it myself.
Just did this yesterday on my ‘15 A3, thanks so much for the great video! Just a note, not sure if this just applies to Audi’s or older models, but on mine the top right and top left manifold bolts were actually studs with nuts on them, meaning that the fuel hard pipe and oil filter were necessities to be removed.
Same with my 2016 GTI...
Same with my 14 Jetta 1.8L. Came here to figure out if that fuel line b nut was what was holding me up on the side opposite the oil filter.
Same with my 2015 gti!!
Same with my 2016 GTI S, my wifes 2016 GTI SE and my neighbors 2017 Alltrack. They all had the studs, and this makes it impossible to install or remove the manifold with the fuel pipe installed. Getting to the nut under the manifold when its in place is just barely possible with a stubby 17mm. @HumbleMechanic sir, did you remove the studs and change to using bolts to make your life easier? Would you recommnend?
I’ve watched this at least ten times slowly working my way to actually try it some day lol
Thank you! Hands down best mk7 Intake removal video on RUclips. All the other videos have you remove the fan or other coolant lines or both for some reason. You way simplified it! I did have to remove the hard metal line to get the intake off. I didn’t even jack up the car. Took about 1.5 to remove so don’t be scared to tackle this guys.
At 51k even with water/meth for 10k head had tons of carbon! (Had VMR CC for 6 k but removed it) I sent the car off for walnut media cleaning before it goes back together. Thanks for the video.
Thank you Charles, great instruction. I’m an old school TDI guy, and do all my own work. I just had a P2015 code come up so I might be tackling the intake on my 2016 Tiguan. It’s just outside of Volkswagen’s recall mileage at 125,000.
It’s pretty easy! Paul and I did a video years ago on that exact manifold. But it’s really similar to this one
One of the first upgrades I did on my scirocco was a hpa high flow aluminium intake manifold no pesky swirl flaps problems and more air win win 👍🏻
Adam Davis how do you like the HPA? I'm installing a Littco L450 turbo on my gti with MPI injection. Does the HPA have provisions for the extra 4 injectors?
Just used this for my intake cleaning. Amazingly helpful as always! Thanks Charles!
Oh yeah, at 40,000 miles, the moment I got the car I put a stage 1 APR tune on the motor, and on the transmission. So, 385 horsepower, 385 lb feet of torque, and 140,000 mi without a hiccup. I always thought Audi's were problematic, I know, I'm mostly dealing with luck, a little bit of good fortune based on the fact that I've never gone 5001 miles without fresh Castrol, and I live in the high desert, dry, dry, dry and never very hot. That being said it's still been a total dream of a car. I just had to mention that. Thanks.
Oh last thing, I will never own a vehicle and not have a OBD 11 type device for it ever again. Vagcom would have been even better but it's pricey and I spent $100 on the OBD 11 and a few bucks on a subscription, and it has been an absolute game changer.
you are in an ideal situation, multiply it by doing good maintenance. Don"t cheap out on fluids! dont forget your transmission every 40k
The amount of money I've saved by doing my own maintenance (thanks to your videos) is un-effing real LOL
Love your videos
Hell yes!!!
@@HumbleMechanic btw, wanted to mention:
2015 GTI, 100k miles, doing all of the maintenance: Engine oil, Transmission oil, PCV valve replacement, rear brake pads, and intake valve cleaning!
All of the mods including IS38 upgrade 8)
Had her for over 6 years now! Can't believe it
Thanks again my man!
You saved my life. There is so little out there on this engine, especially gen 3b and even more so as set up in the Atlas.
This was SUCH a PITA!!!!!! I thought, fuel injector, okay, no big deal, just a little time. WOW! I will probably never do it again, especially when under a time crunch and trying to learn. I officially hate this engine set up. My 4R takes 2 hours or less for a non-mechanic like me, and about 73 fewer demolished hands and fingers!
Thank you so much for this... I'm reposting it in the fuel injector video as well!
Quick note when removing the larger wire harnesses underneath on the driver side-- there is another small harness clipped to the rear of that small assembly/mount that is bolted to the bottom of the manifold. You can see it on the close-up shot in the video, but the edit on the video omits taking it off.
The length is just enough not to let you do what you want to get to it. I ended up unscrewing the whole harness mount after the manifold was dislodged and able to be tilted a bit. Not sure what the best way to have done it, as it's such a small clip that has to be released from INSIDE the receiver with a small screwdriver (or Charles' favorite pick).
I just went through the suffering of taking my intake manifold out, your video was a great help. Thank you.
I do love the similarities between the VAG group engines
Who doesn't like a nice VAG?
Great video, probably the best I’ve seen. Your explanations along the way are excellent. Still feeling a bit intimidated though. I’m afraid of missing something or damaging/breaking something. Fear is such a vicious thing, wraps me up in chains ;0. My local dealer does not do media blasting only chemical cleaning. Keep doing what you do Charles.
The worst that can happen is dropping something in the engine. I’m extremely careful working on intakes because of this.
Your local dealer is silly. LOL It's not too bad. Follow the video and be super careful.
or find a local VW/Audi shop that is smarter than the dealer and does media blasting
HumbleMechanic Well, if I’m going to keep the R then I’d better start learning. Need to upgrade my toolset. Definitely need a nice magnetic socket like you had. That was pretty strong
I have to mention that this motor, while it may get hate for some things, I bought my 2016 S3 with 40,000 miles on it in 2020 October. I've driven the hell out of it road drove Uber drove lyft drove door dash, put 100,000 miles on it in a couple of years It currently has 181,000 mi on it, I did every bit of maintenance, and I am not even close to certified. It's been solid as a rock. That is to say, it's run like a top until just recently when I had to get the water pump replaced, and at the same time did the carbon clean out, which I believe caused me to immediately have misfires upon retrieving it from the shop and overpaying for the water pump replacement. Now I have to do fuel injectors and an alternator, but for $140,000 mi on a 2016 S3 to only have these few issues now, it's been amazing. Plastic parts are not, it's a good engine, well at least I got a good one anyway. Best car I've ever owned and also the car that was the turning point in my never ever taking a car to a mechanic again. You're a big part of that humble mechanic, I can't recall your name right now Thank you very much for your help and for this video you're a lifesaver, a money saver in fact, big one.
I just love your work, could watch for hours. Can't wait for the new shop to be done, I know for sure you'll be pumping out videos like crazy.
Thank you so much!!!
Awesome video! However, this doesn’t work for the MK7 GTIs😓 why did VW use two studs on the top outer manifold bolts?!?! Lower part of manifold could not make it past lower fuel line fitting so I had to take a ton of other stuff off to get that loose😩. At least this got me through 95% of removal. Keep up the great work!
Just did a carbon clean and this video helped me in various ways . One big one was that stupid electric connector bracket and how the connectors clip on. Good luck finding that on Google. Thanks Humble!
Thank you guys for watching. This was a pretty fun DIY. What should we DIY NEXT? :)
Coilovers, front sway bar, or catch can.
Thinking the can may be next.
Id like to see a video just explaining what each hose line is for and what it does plus where everything is around the engine bay
Thanks, from south Australia
I remember your old video from DeutscheAutoparts. 👍
I think you’ve probably made this look easier than it would be for me. Haha
Also I have a rear shock on my GTI that has some seepage. Maybe you could talk about struts and shock failures.
Thanks
Holy crap...I think it used to take me 10 minutes to get the intake manifold off my old E36. This looks like quite the project that I'd like to never have to do...but given how much carbon the Golf R makes...I'm sure it will be one of the first things I have to do when the 72k mile warranty is up. I'm glad this video exists and I'll be able to find it in a few years.
Thank you for this video. I did carbon cleaning on 2016 Golf R. Your instructions for removal were spot on. I ended up having to remove the hard fuel line, because intake manifold was interfering with it, but did not have remove oil filter housing.
I had the same problem as I imagine he did as well.
Same problem. Skipped through the video twice to see if he removed the complete pipe. Seemingly left that part out
Europe do have MPI and FSI injectors on the EA888 Gen 3 engines.
Have it on my daily (Audi A3 1.8 TFSI Sportback) 140000 km’s on the clock and intake valves are really clean. Just makes me wonder how on earth you guys never got it as well. Worst part, from 2017 they have removed the MPI injectors. Like taking a step back, thank you, VW.
Keep ‘em coming, Charles :)
You are the best teacher in VAG yt tutorials.
**REPAIR NOTES** 2014 VW Jetta SE 1.8T CPRA 115k mi
@HumbleMechanic much appreciated on this video! I attempted to tackle this without a tutorial at first but this came in real handy. For anyone who might have a 1.8T with a similar engine code, there are a few obstacles I noticed and figured I'd leave some notes below in case it helps out for other DIY'ers. Also added some timestamps and background notes in case that helps make this a quicker job.
Original Symptoms: Rough idle, Sluggish acceleration/hesitation
CEL Code: P2014 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Bank 1
Secondary Symptoms: Almost stalling at low RPM's, Misfires in 2 cylinders, EPC Limp Mode
Assessment: Excessive carbon buildup on runner flaps or around actuators resulting in improper airflow due to runner flap malfunction
Repair Notes
1. [0:47] - 1/4" drive needed for bits and extension in order to get to bottom bolts
2a. [2:38] - For my car this was 100% needed. [6:15] Unfortunately my intake manifold has an 8 bolt/2nut setup where there are 2 captive bolts stuck in the cylinder head in the top corners. This minimizes how much you can angle the intake manifold when removing and it gets hung up on the bottom fuel rail nut. Didn't realized this until I had everything else off and something kept catching.
2b. [2:58] - 17mm wrench was too small. Used an 18 Milli Vanilli (which my set didn't have at the time of course)
2c. [10:56] - Couldn't put this back on until I had the new manifold installed due to problem 2a
3. [4:00] - Think I found only 1 connector with this setup near the high pressure fuel line that was removed
4. [4:50] - Little hack with this bracket. Originally I removed it and it helped get the intake out for sure but that TrSq bolt was a HUGE pain. Instead I realized later, you can just remove the 13mm nut all the way and then unscrew that whole bolt from the manifold housing. It's the hex shaped rubber spacer right above the metal bracket shown [12:27]. He calls it a union piece. Considering you have to swap it over anyways, just unscrew from the manifold rather than removing the metal bracket. I found this out after I put the new manifold on, got the bracket back on, then realized I forgot to hook up a vacuum hose to the bottom of the throttle body assembly. SMH
5. [5:49] - Did not have a lot of these screws or brackets. Just 1 screw for the clamp connecting the fuel rail to the manifold.
6. [9:40] - Had a 3 connector attached to the retaining bracket hidden under the throttle body. Once the manifold was out, it was easy to unscrew the bracket rather than loosen the connector from it.
7. [10:08] - Apparently some aftermarket parts have these already predrilled leaving open air to your intake manifold. Make sure you get the right part where these are closed if you don't have port injectors and are buying from somewhere like eBay.
Putting it all back together was pretty straightforward. Just don't forget all the sensors!
Good Luck.
Nice job. Why the steel fuel lines are now replaced by this reinforced hose? You could consider acquiring a wire camera and connected to an android phone record the tight spots beside and under the engine so you can show them in a corner of the screen. I bought mine and the camera has also some LEDs around so it makes also some light. Pretty cool to see in the invisible spots
Thanks Charles, this helped a lot. The one thing I was able to do was just loosen the triple square and 13MM on the bracket then spin the rubber piece out of the manifold once the manifold bolts are removed.
You said a couple of hours. Taking this thing off and doing the injectors took me 5 hours. But your videos helped so much. But I did do a couple of things differently to make hints easier.
To anyone attempting this.. as I currently am. Thay #10 bottom tripple bolt is a huge pain in the ass. 20 min total. And i went with 2 extentions and a joint swivel to thread it the rest of the way. Pretty long bolt and tight space. I hate how he makes everything look so easy😂
I used this video to help remove the intake manifold on my 2016 GTI. I did notice a couple differences. There are a couple more connectors on my GTI that needed to be unplugged. The metal fuel line also had to be removed otherwise the intake would catch on it and wouldn't come out. Also, the two outer intake manifold bolts are actually studs with a 10mm nut on it. I found It more challenging to remove since it has to be pulled towards the front first then turned like the video. I think this is also why the metal fuel line needs to come out. Otherwise, everything was exactly the same and helped me remove the intake manifold. The most challenging part is removing the lower intake manifold support bolt. There is no room to fit my hands in there to get the triple square on the bolt. Also had to use a swivel socket.
This was a master class video. Thanks.
Thank you so much for this walk through.
I’ve got an issue with my Golf R and need to look at my Injectors. been quoted stupid money from various garages for them just to take A look at the injectors etc. fingers crossed 🤞
Finished work got everything sorted expect from one thing the No10 triple square. F”ck that’s hard to remove so going to tackle this tomorrow 🤞
Off topic, but I’m glad to see that VW put a much larger washer fluid reservoir in the newer MK7’s. It’s stupidly small in my 2015.
If I'm doing this job that triple square is getting dropped when I try to remove it with a magnet followed by the wait to hear it hit the ground.
LOL I didn't drop the triple square this time LOL
I love intake manifold jobs on our cars. So easy!
I agree! Looks way scarier than it is
Worth noting, if you're going to remove that coolant line, and on my A3 it's really better in my view to take it off 1st before you start unbolting anything in case you get some coolant spraying anywhere, and if you're going to do that take the cap off your car coolant reservoir, to avoid the freaking spraying. It also doesn't help the bank of connectors clip onto the BOTTOM of the IM. My gawd, couldn't they have built a better mousetrap? Nobody wants to touch them. And on my A3, that bolt on the bottom is a T50, not a #10 Triple Square. It's really good to know beforehand. I didn't have a T50 but I bought a #10 Triple Square so if you need one I can't find the receipt for it! You pay the postage, you can have the thing. Great job, you make it look easier than it isnt !
Dual port injection upgrade please.
Carbon buildups only happen in America, the rest of the world has DPI and they have no issues; therefore, DPI is clearly needed for this design. Afterwards, dyno :)
Hope this gets fixed on the USA version Mk 8. This has been ongoing for 11yrs now (so I have heard).
Great video. Love to watch.
These are the best auto DIY videos on RUclips.
thankyou!
Very similar to the one yourself with DAP 5 years ago. I used that video to replace two intake manifolds on an Audi and a VW. Thanks for your videos.
Thank you for the video. I’m saving it to use when I need to perform this job. And it is likely to be needed someday to avoid those extremely expensive dealership costs. Local Audi dealer is $110 per hour
I find it worth have couple different spanner of same size in tool box. Some time a different make spanner has slightly different angle to it wiche is enough get more movement on nut or bolt
Never saw you remove the fuel line at the fuel rail. I saw you do it at the pump but whatever. Thank you for the info you did provide
The golf clap soundtrack made me laugh. 😂
Hahahha glad you caught that
Huge thank you for this video! Subaru tech by trade never work on European cars but your video was a huge help doing a walnut blast on my wife's mk7 alltrack 🙏
Just bought an 11 eos. p2015 the day after I bought it. looks like I will be doing this really soon. Car is driving fine though.
followed all instructions but deviated on the triple square. I just ended up putting the car on jack stands, removed the splash shield, and removed the charge pipe. Made removing and installing that triple square much easier
Nice
Hi Charles - love your video and feel sad for all VW fans including me about OVER-USING plastic all over the engine bay!
Challenge accepted ! They quoted me 450 to do this ! Nope I’ll be doing this myself !
I got quoted 2x that🥴 so yea definitely doing this and taking my time lol
@@alexmaciel2136 hell yea do it your self ! Save that dough ! Used the extra dough for upgraded fuel lines
Hi Charles! First of all thank you for all the informative and quality content, this is gold in its category, it helped me a lot! Secondly: I have a question for you, since I have a weird issue and I don't really find any useful information about the problem and I don't have anybody to ask who I'd trust except you.
So the thing is: I have a friend who has a Skoda Superb III (2018), it has a 2.0 tfsi engine (200kW/272hp/DNUA), and it has a quite concerning fuel leak on the high pressure fuel line that we discovered using endoscope camera placed under the intake manifold. Because of this problem the car turned the check engine light on, so I connected the car to VCDS and there was a P119A (fuel pressure sensor g247 malfunction) fault code stored with fault frequency: 3, nothing else. So we though the sensor sent wrong value to the ECU (probably low pressure values), the ECU increased the pressure and caused the injector seal to fail. It was logical to replace the G247 sensor, so I've followed your guide to remove the intake manifold, then replaced the G247 sensor, removed the fuel rail to check the injector o-rings (they looked OK) and reseated the fuel rail hoping if the seal moved it will seal again (I wanted to replace the seals, but for some reason none of the shops had them on stock, and couldn't order them either, weird...). So after reseating the fuel rail, replacing the high fuel line pressure sensor I've reassembled the intake side, cleared the fault codes, started the engine. It worked, but it was still leaking, so we decided not to torture it anymore until our new injector seals arrive ordered from abroad.
My question is: Reading the live data from the g247 sensor in VCDS showed 200 bar fuel pressure (both actual and requested) on idling revs, which is kind of odd. Is this just a VCDS/protocol bug? I'm pretty sure at idling it should be around 50 bars (my audi 8p 2.0 tfsi has 50 bars at idle, 70 bars at 2000rpm, 80 bars at 3000rpm). When I pressed the gas pedal and increased the rpm to around 2000 it suddenly dropped from 200 bars to like 100 bars (both actual and requested), which I still think is too high, especially with leaking rail.
Next time when we do a teardown to replace the seals, should I replace the injector fuel rail? I'm worried the socket the injectors connect to is deformed for some reason and we don't want to disassemble the high pressure line too many times, the fittings won't like that. Is this a somewhat common issue? Changing only the injector seals would be enough, or should we go for the rail too? We can get it for reasonable price brand new (like 50 eurs). My idea is fuel leak is not a fun thing, and a new rail with new seals should do the trick probably for life. Am I on right track or do you have anything to add?
I've found a rail with 06K133317H part number for sale, but I'm not sure if it is compatible with the engine. (Btw it looks exactly like the one in this video, the two mounting screws going through the rail) I don't find any database that could help me figure out the compatibility. Can you please tell me by any chance if it is compatible, so we can order it? We didn't check the part number when it was disassembled (I didn't think it should be replaced) and I wouldn't remove the manifold just to check the number, because the car can not stay disassembled in the garage. Thank you for your answer!
This makes it easier lol, I followed Elsa and now I noticed I took too long, but I’m glad I did it the “right” way first so now I can look for shortcuts 👍🏽
This is pretty close to ELSA. The only difference is you can bypass taking the fuel line off, if you take the oil filter out. Getting that line tight with the manifold on is silly.
Is there an upgrade for the intake manifold for the Mk7r . All I keep coming across are oem 🤦🏽♂️
not that I have found. This manifold is not the weak point like the older TSI
Mk7 R Integrated Engineering makes a new intake with velocity stacks for each runner! You might be able to ride fast and buy fun, but our caR is cleaner than your caR! INTERGALACTIC HYDROGEN we build American Fuel Vehicles. Ride Clean & Save Green, Burn rubber instead of toxic gasoline!
@@HumbleMechanic eventually plastic anything becomes a weak point
Alex P eventually anything metal becomes a weak point aswell.
Alex P and not true buddy is you were actually an engineer you would know that by early 2005 most manufacturers had the plastic intake manifolds looked down due to a rough first years and now you’ll barely ever see one break under normal stress Conditions. Before you start saying oh plastic junk research a little buddy.
Multi port nitrous provision cool.
I was able to replace manifold on my 2015 A3 with this (resolved flap stuck fault code). Hardest part for me was nut on the fuel rail (could not get manifold off or on with that nut in place as nut was blocking it, and very hard to reach even with stubby wrench).
Great video! Can you do a video for fluid and filter change on 2020 Passat with g9 transmission please??
Your videos are next level good. You probably will save so many mechanics and DIY's from extra stress by taking the time to make this video. Would you say this is 2 hours labor for an experienced euro workshop ?
The one thing i would recommend is a 4 inch extension and needle nose if ur using 3/8 drive sockets for the holes in between the intake runners
How about a water pump replacement video. I had first water pump replaced under warranty so I’m guessing it will need that knowledge for the next one.
this demonstration is the easiest way ive come across to un bolt the manifold.. just gave me a bit of confidence.
Replacing #2 injector due to hide cylinder code and #2 cylinder misfires. Carbon clean aswell (35k miles 2016 GTI). This video will definitely help me out!
be sure it's not just a coil or spark plug. That hide cylinder code can be stored any time you have a dead misfire
@@HumbleMechanic Just replaced all the coils and spark plugs. I even swapped plugs and coils again after i replaced them all lol. If its not the injector or carbon build up I guess ill look into the tune? Eurodyne maestro is38. Put about 15k miles on this tune though with no problems until now. Only ranomly throws the code at idle and ill get misfires at cruising speeds? Its all super random lol
When you said "don't use the impact and send it home... " I thought about that scene from Happy Gilmore "that's your home ball! Are you too good for your home!?" 😂
HAHAHHAHAH
Charles… great video but… I have to replace the secondary air injection solenoid valve which sits on the drivers side, under the manifold. I’m getting fault codes for it, it slides on and held with two tabes you have to press in to slide it out. Any tool I can use to press the two tabes WITHOUT taking the manifold off?? Help!!! 2019 VW Tiguan
Got it done this past saturday! Thank you!
Wow makes me glad I have a 1.8t 20v engine so much simpler. Good video as always.
Right! I could have that manifold on and off in less than 5 mins lol
Make sure you guys have a 1/4 t30 torx bit, anything bigger won't fit, also loosen the bottom connection for the fuel line he mentioned, the right side of the intake gets caught on it.
so why did you remove the fuel line if you can install it before installing the intake back on? Why not just leave it on. does it do something to help get the manifold off but not on?
Looking at that engine bay reminds me of how easy my mk4 1.8t awp was to work on and actually had a good amount of room to move around.
Thank you Charlires I always love watching your videos I am from South Africa
I was doing a water pump replacement on a 2012 VW CC sport and my check engine came on after everything was done with a code p2008 what did I do wrong ?
Hello Charles, love your vids - from the land down under
Could you please also do a thermostat/water pump replacement job when your Golf R needs it
Thanks I have to do this also have this problem also on my Golf 7 GTI perfomance error code P201400 I have but after this video I have a clear view how to change it thanks
Please please do a video on upgraded fueling. That would be so cool.
Sad that multiport injection is not included in the US EA888 engines
agree!
this simplifies the job immensely. such a big help thank you
Makes me wish I had a 2.0t just so I could take the intake manifold off! As always great vid. Soon they'll be coming from the Dream Shop!
HAHAHA! I can't wait....
Very informative! I have a 2015 GTI hopefully the procedure will be similar other videos I watched guys take way more stuff out i.e. radiator etc...
I thought Paul said you had a video for the FSI, for removal of the intake manifold. I believe he said it was a video for something else but outlined the manifold during the process. I’m not finding it. Can you link me or let me know the video title? Looking for bpy fsi intake manifold. Love you guys! Thanks 🙏
Are you gonna do a water pump/thermostat video? I’m gonna assume yours will start leaking eventually
Gen III’s don’t leak as much was early models did. Did you peep his pump? It’s a complete redesign.
I may at some point. But I really need a compelling reason for that diy. Lol
Lynx Star Automotive not necessarily true I see gen 3’s leak everyday in the shop. They redesigned the engine temperature control actuator but they still leak, they have a recall open on the older ones and extended the warranty on a lot of them but I’ve seen brand new 19 tiguans, golf Rs, gtis and golfs leak. I’ve even seen atlas’ with 20k or less leak, which obviously is a completely different design.
Luis Estrada Sure not impossible, but Gen III’s do not fail anywhere near as commonly as the early ones did.
I mean I remember PDI cars leaking from the pump bud. We had literally vehicles with 10 miles on them leaking on the lot. A lot of it was improper installation, followed by piss-poor design and parts quality.
Love your vids Charles, when is the HumbleMechanic Q&A coming back? I loved so much that serietà. Also I have question to submit for the Q&A 😜
LOL I am not sure. I might just bring it back in audio only.
@@HumbleMechanic I would love even an HumbleMechanic podcast, where you just talk about car world stuffs or general stuffs (with guests as well!).
I followed all the instructions and after I was done I got an EPC code and checked with a scan tool and got a fault code about all 4 injectors having an open circuit? What could the problem possibly be? Also the car starts but dies of if i don't give it gas if I give it gas just once it stays on idle no problem.
They aren’t plugged in all the way. Check the connector bank first and be sure it’s clicked all the way
@@HumbleMechanic Checked the connector bank and everything is clicked in all the way. Do you have any suggestion what to check next? I did not take off the fuel rail at all just the intake manifold to replace the water pump.
Do you need to replace the intake manifold gasket or can you reuse it if it looks good?
Sorry bro but I have 2 questions for you .. :)
~Do you have to/should you replace the intake manifold gasket?
~Do you know if the 2015+ AUDI CPMB 2.0T with the alum intake is removable without taking out the injectors like on your engine?
I would love to clean the intake ports but don't want to deal with re-seating the injectors.
Thanks man, your the best!!!
Anytime you remove the intake, you will disturb the injectors, and YOU WILL pull some out. Injectors must be resealed no exceptions. If you just push them back in, they may not produce issues right away, but sooner rather than later you will develop misfires, and/or lean codes. Or the worst of all, the seal becomes compromised and compression gasses and gunk seize the injector in the bore. I had one stuck so bad, I had to break it off, and drill it out. That was $$$$ for what? To save 80 bucks on a seal kit?
As far as the intake gasket goes, the rule of thumb is any gasket or seal that is disturbed, is replaced. If you don’t, chances are you will be ok, but what if you develop an intake leak? Pull the manifold off again, reseal the injectors again, because one didn’t want to replace a 15.00 gasket?
No. All gaskets get replaced period. Do it right, do it once.
@@lynxstarautomotive208 It seems the newer style has the intake ans fuel rail separated however.
If you see in the video the fuel rail stays bolted to the head and is not attached to the intake at all?
I understand that in the older models they were connected and hence if you take the manifold off, the injectors were coming with them..
Roderick Roderick Ok you speak of the Gen III engines. On those you would only replace the intake manifold gasket, and the throttle body gasket.
Lynx Star Automotive Yes, I’m asking if the Audi CPMB engine specifically is one of these gen3 ones that leaves the injectors in place?
I have found out that the 2015 Audi A4 Automatic CPMB with E85 support, metal intake manifold and the 5th injector is still the older GEN2 EA888.
I have been comparing the manifold and fuel rail to this video and others and it seems that even though its GEN2, it looks like they are not attached together and it is possible to remove the intake and leave the fuel rail attached to the head.
But I have not tried it so I cannot confirm this?
Charles, thank you so much for this video.
Great video as always. Thank you for helping me understand I never want to do this job. 👍🏻
I wouldn't use silicon spray. Getting some through the intake could contaminate the O2 sensor. BUT, thank you for all the awesome detailed videos. I'm a loyal subscriber!
You’re fine here. It might only be a little that gets past the TB. Of course we have to be smart and not saturate hhaha
Just what I need. Thanks Charles 😎👍
YASSSs
Hey bud, I have 120k miles on my MK7 GTI, and I’ve done a carbon cleaning on my Mk7 GTI four times, all done myself. I’m familiar with this job, but always looking for ways to make the job easier and quicker. I unfortunately think I’m having some clogged injector issues, which is causing a cylinder 3 misfire, and sometimes cylinder 4, so I’m going to be doing the IM removal once again.
I’ve always had a difficult time taking the IM off due to the hard fuel line, so I just remove the hard fuel line altogether (a stubby 17mm wrench is a must for that part!). I noticed you snugged up the hard fuel line completely before you reinstalled the IM. Does that actually work and not get in the way? I’ve tried doing this before on two occasions, but I always had a difficult time getting the IM set into place, because the hard fuel line seemed to be obstructing it and not allowing the IM to seat properly. So I usually loosely install that hard fuel line first, then seat the IM into place, then put a couple of the IM bolts into place loosely to keep the IM in position, and then I tighten up the hard fuel line rest of the way from there while the IM has some wiggle room. Its pretty straightforward this way with the right tools of course, but if I did it your way, the job would probably be a little bit easier and quicker, but I’m just trying to wrap my head around how you were actually able to pull that off? That never seemed to work for me, but I’m very curious as to how you got that to work.
Also, the IM bracket with the triple square always was the most difficult part of this job for me. Not the removal of the triple square, but when it comes time to reinstall it. Just a tight spot and super difficult to see, especially when the throttle pipe isn’t loosened. Do you recommend lining up that bracket, and setting that triple square bolt into place before the IM is set in place? Just curious.
Thanks for such a quality install video
Dude thank you so much for making this video! You da man! What would you rather do? Turbo replace or this?
Thanks again and stay safe!
This all day long. Ahha
@@HumbleMechanic wow really? That's actually encouraging because I didn't think the turbo job was too bad at all!
best DIY videos on youtube
Thank you!
How hard is it to put in port injection? I swear that manifold has the spots for it you just need to drill holes and wire in the injectors into the ecu, which I've seen mention to port injectors in the ECU through OBDEleven. I wish they would do a recall and force them to retrofit all DI cars. Is this not a problem on turbo diesels in and outside the VW world? Also I wish you would have left everything and put it back together and tried a cleaner, or scoped it and tried a cleaner. I use valve cleaner ever oil change but I really need to save up, bite the bullet and get a catch can. Thanks for the videos Charles you and your beard are awesome
Lol. You can’t just “change over” to port injection. You’d need a completely different engine.
Aaron Garcia These engines use dual injection (port and direct) in Europe. US consumers, we are not that lucky.
Y u no show Porsche side of family any love
How did you reach the bolt for the bracket that holds the manifold up. There is no room to get anything in there from top or bottom without removing everything.