Nice to see an expert hand block sanding a panel to get things straight. Even with all the sanding machines out there, there is nothing to equal hand blocking. And a DA- sander to smooth down the primer.
Nothing beats the long block - nothing. It even matters what kind of pad you have on the long block - too soft and it follows the highs and lows. Thanks for the comment.
Brought back good memories for me from the 80's. I remember my boss teasing me that I had more bondo cheese on the floor than bondo on the car. The cheese grader was such a time saver if you knew how to use it. We would just put them in a gallon can of lacquer thinner to soak when finished and they'd be good as new for the next sculpture.
Thank you so much for that idea!!!! I sit there while the filler is hardening and pick at the blade with an old razor blade to clean it. Never even though of thinner. Awesome!!
That's good that you like doing body work because that's why they call it body work because it's WORK! Not to many people want to learn I tried to get my nephew into it. He wanted me to do all the work to show him how. I told him and gave him a demonstration he ended up getting someone else to do it on his 1959 Chevy El Camino
@@snoopu2601 I guess that's how kids are now... It's a shame. When I was growing up I knew lots of guys who moonlighted doing bodywork and drinking beer. Good times! 🇺🇲🍺
@@bjr2379 yes sire that's how I learned how to do body work I hung out with my friend and his uncle owed a body shop we would hang out there on Saturday's and Sunday's and help him and in exchange he would let us use his tools and materials to fix up are bikes. Then when we got older in high school into car's we were working on car's before we even owned a car. My first car I bought off my father for $50.00 a parts car 1968 Toyota Corona 4 door it end up being a show car. I didn't mean to start out that way I had a vision and keep on going with it plus I knew a guy that own a junk yard at the time in Richmond California he let me have anything I wanted for my car I shorten a 1951 Buick grill and put 4 BMW chrome bumber guards across the front bumber with Apple ton spot lights and white wall tires with the stock hub caps red rims and on the hub caps I put the 3 prong knock offs them with smoked tinted window, I had the inside done really nice a guy my uncle knew did it for a trade for work. Most of the stuff for the car was trades for work no money. That was some fun time's. I don't think I could build a car like that again all those old timers are gone but never for gotten. The environmentalist came in and shut down all of the wrecking yards and a whole lot of shops couldn't afford the new shop law's requirements. Thanks for replying RJB_ you brought back some good memories as I was writing I was thinking about what these youngins will never get to know about. Well most I hope to think there are parent's or father has his son in the garage turning wrenches, and building some thing.
"No metal islands" my auto body instructor used to say. If I was doing it I would take a pick hammer and pick those islands down a little bit...then put a tight coat on...but that's not the only way to get this straight and this guy's method works for him so I support him in how he does it. I've seen all kinds of methods...and some are amazing . One method I've never successfully done was straightening a large door panel with a flexible pad on a 6 inch grinder. We had this guy doing a 70's Trans Am that got gouged from the back of the front fender all the way into the rear wheel lip. He straightened out the metal fairly well, and used this grinder with a very flexible pad, glued sone sanding discs on it (40 grit) and proceeded to straighten the entire filler area.The door had a subtle body line...and he got it all straight! It was amazing...and FAST ! He put a very tight coat of filler on...hit it with the 40 grit and then switched to 80. I recall that it took him about an hour from the time he applied the first filler coat, until he sent it to the painter 80 grit and straight.
@@LakesideAutobody Yeah...it's nice when it happens. The high build primer era has made the success rate a lot higher than the lacquer primer days LOL !
Right on im doing my 98 Z71 Silverado I'm restoring right after seeding and it's got the typical extend cab upper body line warp these trucks were famous for on the extented cabs lucky mine has the 3rd dr so it's just the drivers side I got to screw with that body line the rest of the panels including the bedsides are new.
Ideally the bondo is not on paint. Feather edge the paint to 80 grit or 150 and the same with the bondo. Prime with 2k primer and you won't see the repair (if it's straight!)
36 grit fiber resin disc to grind paint off and prep metal for filler, 40 grit to sand filler, finish your filler with 80, Prime, block sand w/ 120-150, prime again and finish sand with 220-400 - paint
First is wrong,he suppose to use the long board,too black down the Bondo,2 he forgets to Sand the fetereghed,3 always use the long board, for big job, overall not bad,👎👎👎👎👎
That's true sometimes but not all the time. Every job is different and on that one I need to protect the body line area - diagonal would have risked that
Hi Jerry, I finished metal work on one of the rust areas of the 71 Camaro, now filler work. I used a slightly different method than you teach on patch repair. I purchased a HF flange making tool. I butt welded the new patch where I could not use the tool and lapped joint with the flange areas. Because the step of the flange, I could stitch/spot weld in the little area between the old panel and new metal. I knock down the welds like you do but very little hammering is needed to sink the welds as they are down in that grove between the panels. I did not visually see any metal distortion made by flanging tool but I could be completely wrong once I start filler work. I just finished watching your video on using Bondo. I will let you know how things go.
That's great to hear - would love to check it out. Take a look at the top of the home page or channel banner - there's a link to upload blogs, messages, and pictures of everyone's projects. If you want you could be the first to use it. Haven't had anyone post anything yet. If not let me know how it goes anyway. Again great job my friend :)
@@Danno74Z Yes. My son says it would be the best choice because it's not policed like FB, Twitter, etc. Folks could be themselves a bit more. I don't know though - thought I'd give it a try :)
Good question. I stopped sanding immediately when I hit them. Now... if you have any low areas you are going to have to fill them at that point - I did not, so I was good. If they were a hair high at that point (which they were) the primer blocking will catch that. If it don't, sometimes you can die grind them down a tiny bit then prime and block. Hope that helps
@@claybird8184 Also if you do determine that there are spots that have to be knocked down in a situation like this, you can use a punch and a hammer to be much more accurate as to not mess up the filler work you have done already.
@@LakesideAutobody I put tap to fallow the body line on my 1972 GMC Suburban to fallow the long body line on it. I had so much trouble until I figured it out it got hit right behind the driver door so I had to work the metal the Best I could without stretching it out and used some painters tap to know where the body line and sanded the bondo. I used that HOT RODZ FLATES paint color laid law yellow pretty close to the school bus color pick that color on accidental so I went with the laid law school bus theme with a white top and painted the wheels white with the dog dish rings and sombrero hub caps with tinted windows it came out really nice for an accident color paint job but just went with it. I was a welder at the time I planned on using it as my work truck but it looked to nice to put metal in the back so I bought a diffrent truck for that. Wish I had RUclips when doing the body work way back then it would have help out and saved time. I did have air tools but it seem like the hand board like you was using worked better than the air board. I still have the air board I prefer the hand board.
Sometimes it'll just pop right off because it's on shiny paint. Or I'll just grab the cheese grater (sureform 1/2 round) and take it off real quick. In that case since it hardened - sand it off quick with 40 on a block.
I've never used the cheese grater, but I can see its usefulness. However, he should be working it in an X pattern, not side to side and straight up and down. JMHO.
Here's a better example of the cheese grater usage. This video was more about the body line - the filler was very thin so I wasn't really cutting too deep with the grater
Good information Sir! One question: after the first sanding of the Bondo, you said you were going to put another coat of filler in the low spots. Do you sand the low areas before adding another layer of filler? If so, what grit aperture do you use? Thanks, Tom
Great ? - I keep a box of used sand paper and I grab a piece of 40 grit from a long board and tear a piece off and rough it up a bit. I'm sure it's ok to put it right over the lows but better to be safe - only takes a second.
Hi I was priming a car with 2k high build primer but ran out of primer after two coasts. I wanted to spray an additional coat can I spray my last coat a day later without any prep work, or do I have to sand the primer first. Using shop line 2k high build primer Thanks
I would at least lightly sand it or scuff if because it's 2k - to be sure. It doesn't mention anything on the product sheet though. You can do that with lacquer primer but not 2K stuff.
In a body shop the manager writes the estimates and an insurance adjuster makes sure he's on the mark but if you are doing it on the side you would figure out what you're worth per hour and multiple by how many hours you think it will take plus materials. For example that little section might take a total of 8 hours @ $25 plus an easy $100 for paint and materials. Around $300 would be fair starting point. Obviously it will be a lot more at a dealership - it can get pretty expensive fast. Hope that helps a bit.
feather the grinding marks before u bog and mask off the tub. use a guide coat to get the line razor sharp .it takes a long time to get the fell in your hands .not picking on u just sayin
Hey,Jerry! Great vids,thank you!. I don't know diddle about body work but trying to learn for a retirement project. Some questions about words and tools body men use in everday language. What is a "bondo hog"? Why/what makes/is a National Detroit DA (dual action) so special over other DA's. What is a interface pad? Thanks!
A bondo hog is somewhat of an orbital sander (it doesn't just go in circles like a grinder - but the action is very aggressive yet flat - perfect for taking down bondo fast. ND makes great quality DA's that have a wobbly geometry to them so that the pad bounces just a bit to expel debris or dust eliminating clogging sand paper. They are not as smooth as a Hutchins but they are more aggressive and paper stays clean. An interface pad is not really necessary as it is a soft pad and would just follow the contour - great for sanding irregular shapes but not great for feather edging and getting panels perfectly straight (my opinion)
I haven’t seen anyone use a cheese grater in over 20 years. Why don’t you use a DA or gear drive to knock it down to get it close. Cheese grater is old school out of date
Hugh G. Rekshin Plus you can use a cheese grater hundreds of times where as sandpaper wears out after a couple usesMakes a big difference in your overhead too sandpaper is not cheap!
Lol i’ve been an autobody tech for 45yrs and never had to tape a line to get it straight i guess the Amateurs like this guy do it though real body men dont need to
That's funny 'cause I was always one of the fastest guys in the shop when it came to filler work. Guys that did it by eye played around for hours - I felt sorry for them actually. They also used tons of primer to make up for the wavy work - I know you've been there - can't say that you haven't if you really have done body work. Nice talking to you as always :)
That was fun taking a look at how used to do it in the 80's. On top of the outdated tools like the cheese grater and the ridiculously think bondo your line is low in front high in the rear and crooked all the way through not to mention to sharp. You taped off the emblem and masked the window. That's embarrassing!
You must be going to school for Auto Body. That's a great thing. Just know that I've seen tons of big talkers come and go through the years. In a body shop you can't just talk, you have to be able to do. No excuses no whining. You'll get humbled fast - if you can get filler straight, framework straight, cut of roofs and put them back on, you're done. Hope that helps you out some day - really. Jerry
Lakeside Autobody funny you should mention school. I was a corporate trainer with 30 years experience. Tech changes and obviously you haven’t changed with it. I’ve repaired over 10,000 cars and now I teach at a votech. We are trying to train the next generation of students to do proper repairs and you have been assigned as an assignment. I won’t show you my students responses. Our goal is to extinguish the rough old school hackery you are demonstrating and show students how to make safer proper repairs. Class dismissed!
To get flat areas straight is an art. This type of work needs a great set of skills. Newer generation type of skills are *almost* all panel replacements, which require less skills to complete. The people who have this *old* type of skills are well taken care of so they don’t leave an establishment, or can take care of themselves. The people who don’t usually climb up the corporate ladder, or become teachers so they can *teach* their pristine panel replacement basics through a book. Nothing wrong with that. I saw no hackery on this. It didn’t jeopardize any structural or corrosion integrity. If you want perfect, you gotta do it yourself. If not take it to Pristine Automotive to change a panel that is no longer available. Great video by the way!
you guys realy know what yous are doing and i apriciat yous took the time to adress a concern i had watching one of your videos i am restoreing an 81 z28 and a 71 t37 lemans and apriciat all the tips i can get.thanks.me and my son will enjoy chaseing each other around one day soon due to all the good tips i learn from people like yous
I'm trying to get back into the body shop scene, gotta redo all my tools since they were all stolen couple years ago, I have mechanic stuff but not body work stuff, I really can't afford snap-on stuff at the moment. Any suggestions to get me started again? Thanks ur vids are great.
@3G Craftsman They may have one out there that can do both but I would get just a simple DA for you feathering and a separate polisher dedicated to just polishing - just me though.
Since I hate wasting paper with the DA I first feather edge the rough paint with 80 grit on the bondo hog - then 120 on a national detroit DA - ND because it's agressive - finally finish the outer area with 220 on a palm sander (DA) and scuff with red pad - then prime - no interface pad - Jerry
Good grief man. Tape off that box side panel. Even if yr painting that as well for color match save ur self some effort sanding out deep scratches. Best to sand diagonally holding the sand block as u do.
Diagonal is good but in this case not because I wanted to stay away from the body line. Sanding in every direction is actually the best or even circles sometimes - totally depends on the situation. As for the box, the cab is out further than the box so the board never hit it - but you're right if there was a chance to damage the adjacent panel.
So why can the monkeys who did my driver side sill not get it perfectly straight? First they used body filler and it was still stuck in, second place apparently 'welded a plate' but it arcs out.. just cant win!! It is a better job, but NOT perfect.
@@LakesideAutobody I painted my roof and 2k cleared it, it rained 3 hours later and embedded drops in the clearcoat, can I wetsand with 1k 1500k 2000k then buff with compound then polish? Or should I sand and re clear . Thank u
@@ItaliaJP400 I would try wet sanding first with 1500. If that doesn't cut fast enough you can go all the way down to around 800 grit if the water marks won't come out. Then buff if with some good cutting compound. If that doesn't work, you'll have to sand and re-clear. I'd try to buff first though - good luck. I've had water marks before too :)
@@LakesideAutobody wetsanded with 1000 it came out then I went to 2k that's all i had , most of the scratches came out and I buffed with Maguire's compound took a few tries it's starting to look like glass . 👍
The whole truck has to be painted - plus the truck was purchased specifically to make videos. You can focus on negative stuff or get really good at something. Have a good weekend :)
Instructors teach to always sand diagonal but in the real world that's not always the case. I sand every different way sometimes diag., straight, up, down, in circles, etc - always depends on the job and your body work will come out perfect.
Negativity and drama look horrible on men. Hopefully this channel can be a place where people help each other other out. If you're talking about not masking the quarter or the door check it out at the end - not a scratch - just some uncured hardener that will easily pop off of the shiny paint. The best thing about working with other men at a body shop is you could always let your work do the talking - ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow You just make that look so easy, this is where years of experience pays off.
Thanks Ed - I appreciate the support my friend :)
Great video. I’m getting close to doing the body work on my old 58 Ford pickup. You explain it so an old guy like me can understand. Thanks again.
Glad to help - ask anything you want on any video. This simpler the ?the better :)
Nice to see an expert hand block sanding a panel to get things straight. Even with all the sanding machines out there, there is nothing to equal hand blocking. And a DA- sander to smooth down the primer.
Nothing beats the long block - nothing. It even matters what kind of pad you have on the long block - too soft and it follows the highs and lows. Thanks for the comment.
Brought back good memories for me from the 80's. I remember my boss teasing me that I had more bondo cheese on the floor than bondo on the car. The cheese grader was such a time saver if you knew how to use it. We would just put them in a gallon can of lacquer thinner to soak when finished and they'd be good as new for the next sculpture.
Thank you so much for that idea!!!! I sit there while the filler is hardening and pick at the blade with an old razor blade to clean it. Never even though of thinner. Awesome!!
thanks for sharing the tip using thinner
I cut down a gallon can to 2" by 2" and brazed up the side so as not to use so much thinner! Still have it 40 years later. Thanks for the video.
These are some great videos. I used to help an older friend paint cars in the evenings and weekends. I learned a lot and enjoyed it.
That's good that you like doing body work because that's why they call it body work because it's WORK! Not to many people want to learn I tried to get my nephew into it. He wanted me to do all the work to show him how. I told him and gave him a demonstration he ended up getting someone else to do it on his 1959 Chevy El Camino
@@snoopu2601 I guess that's how kids are now... It's a shame. When I was growing up I knew lots of guys who moonlighted doing bodywork and drinking beer. Good times! 🇺🇲🍺
@@bjr2379 yes sire that's how I learned how to do body work I hung out with my friend and his uncle owed a body shop we would hang out there on Saturday's and Sunday's and help him and in exchange he would let us use his tools and materials to fix up are bikes. Then when we got older in high school into car's we were working on car's before we even owned a car. My first car I bought off my father for $50.00 a parts car 1968 Toyota Corona 4 door it end up being a show car. I didn't mean to start out that way I had a vision and keep on going with it plus I knew a guy that own a junk yard at the time in Richmond California he let me have anything I wanted for my car I shorten a 1951 Buick grill and put 4 BMW chrome bumber guards across the front bumber with Apple ton spot lights and white wall tires with the stock hub caps red rims and on the hub caps I put the 3 prong knock offs them with smoked tinted window, I had the inside done really nice a guy my uncle knew did it for a trade for work. Most of the stuff for the car was trades for work no money. That was some fun time's. I don't think I could build a car like that again all those old timers are gone but never for gotten. The environmentalist came in and shut down all of the wrecking yards and a whole lot of shops couldn't afford the new shop law's requirements.
Thanks for replying RJB_ you brought back some good memories as I was writing I was thinking about what these youngins will never get to know about. Well most I hope to think there are parent's or father has his son in the garage turning wrenches, and building some thing.
nice job, I wouldv sanded the 36 grit grinder marks with a da and 80 grit before putting the filler on there though
Thanks
The angle is everything
Man that came out nice in primer, thanks for doing these vids they keep me happy through the winter.
I'll keep them coming - I'm glad you appreciate and enjoy them. Jerry
Same here lol
@@LakesideAutobody please do many more videos showing bodylines and shapes how do you make like square shapes and re create corners please
@@Nextlevelmarine Thank you - I was wondering if folks wanted to see more of this type of videos. There is a ton more info on fixing difficult dents.
@@LakesideAutobody thankyou i cant wait ive watched almost all your videos now
"No metal islands" my auto body instructor used to say. If I was doing it I would take a pick hammer and pick those islands down a little bit...then put a tight coat on...but that's not the only way to get this straight and this guy's method works for him so I support him in how he does it. I've seen all kinds of methods...and some are amazing . One method I've never successfully done was straightening a large door panel with a flexible pad on a 6 inch grinder. We had this guy doing a 70's Trans Am that got gouged from the back of the front fender all the way into the rear wheel lip. He straightened out the metal fairly well, and used this grinder with a very flexible pad, glued sone sanding discs on it (40 grit) and proceeded to straighten the entire filler area.The door had a subtle body line...and he got it all straight! It was amazing...and FAST ! He put a very tight coat of filler on...hit it with the 40 grit and then switched to 80. I recall that it took him about an hour from the time he applied the first filler coat, until he sent it to the painter 80 grit and straight.
I like no metal islands - that is true for sure. Only sometimes you can get away with it with a good layer of primer.
@@LakesideAutobody Yeah...it's nice when it happens. The high build primer era has made the success rate a lot higher than the lacquer primer days LOL !
I need the tape., thank you very much Jerry.
Yeah that was good. Straight to the point. I’m paying attention.
huh? what? "snort" I nodded off.... zzzz
love your work and videos keep up the great work. I have learned so much from you.
Thank you - I'll keep them coming
Excellent i find createing body lines very difficult Great tutorial. Thanks
You're welcome
Right on im doing my 98 Z71 Silverado I'm restoring right after seeding and it's got the typical extend cab upper body line warp these trucks were famous for on the extented cabs lucky mine has the 3rd dr so it's just the drivers side I got to screw with that body line the rest of the panels including the bedsides are new.
Problem is where the filler meets the existing paint, I can always see when I put light to the panel I can always see the area repaired
Ideally the bondo is not on paint. Feather edge the paint to 80 grit or 150 and the same with the bondo. Prime with 2k primer and you won't see the repair (if it's straight!)
This video was helpful except you missed what grit your using on each pass I’m new to this and trying to learn
36 grit fiber resin disc to grind paint off and prep metal for filler, 40 grit to sand filler, finish your filler with 80, Prime, block sand w/ 120-150, prime again and finish sand with 220-400 - paint
@@LakesideAutobody hell yah thanks a lot! Im working on a 69 c10 and learning a-lot from your channel much appreciated!
@@bigbawsz2054 Ask any ?s you might have - no problem
A Sculptor at work, great job.
Thanks - a Bondo sculptor :)
Very informative and great results. Thanks and keep them coming
You're welcome - glad you appreciate them
First is wrong,he suppose to use the long board,too black down the Bondo,2 he forgets to Sand the fetereghed,3 always use the long board, for big job, overall not bad,👎👎👎👎👎
Diagonal sanding will finish a straighter panel. horizontal will make flat spots.
That's true sometimes but not all the time. Every job is different and on that one I need to protect the body line area - diagonal would have risked that
Your videos are great! Keep them coming!
I will - thanks for the encouragement :)
Hi Jerry, I finished metal work on one of the rust areas of the 71 Camaro, now filler work. I used a slightly different method than you teach on patch repair. I purchased a HF flange making tool. I butt welded the new patch where I could not use the tool and lapped joint with the flange areas. Because the step of the flange, I could stitch/spot weld in the little area between the old panel and new metal. I knock down the welds like you do but very little hammering is needed to sink the welds as they are down in that grove between the panels. I did not visually see any metal distortion made by flanging tool but I could be completely wrong once I start filler work. I just finished watching your video on using Bondo. I will let you know how things go.
That's great to hear - would love to check it out. Take a look at the top of the home page or channel banner - there's a link to upload blogs, messages, and pictures of everyone's projects. If you want you could be the first to use it. Haven't had anyone post anything yet. If not let me know how it goes anyway. Again great job my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Hi Jerry You are talking about making a discord account right? There is an arrow to your projects and more.
@@Danno74Z Yes. My son says it would be the best choice because it's not policed like FB, Twitter, etc. Folks could be themselves a bit more. I don't know though - thought I'd give it a try :)
@@LakesideAutobody OK I am a member now but off line for now. Will take a picture of my patch and upload later today.
Jerry, I'm wondering why you don't knock those three little high spots down a little, because they are too close to the body line? Thank you!
Good question. I stopped sanding immediately when I hit them. Now... if you have any low areas you are going to have to fill them at that point - I did not, so I was good. If they were a hair high at that point (which they were) the primer blocking will catch that. If it don't, sometimes you can die grind them down a tiny bit then prime and block. Hope that helps
@@LakesideAutobody I see, thanks for your excellent videos Jerry, and thanks for answering our questions.
@@claybird8184 Also if you do determine that there are spots that have to be knocked down in a situation like this, you can use a punch and a hammer to be much more accurate as to not mess up the filler work you have done already.
This is how I teach newbies all by hand that way the results are SLOW then I move them onto power tools to speed the job up
Slow is sometimes faster than fast.
I needed youtube 30 years ago. I'm 55 now. I still have a little time to get something right.
You have plenty of years - get busy - ask as many ?s as you need - Jerry
What grit of sandpaper are you using in the first sanding?
40 grit then 80 then prime. Block with 80 or 120 first time - prime again finish sand w/ 220-400 - paint
Note to self, clean grater well before putting back in the drawer! Happy wife happy life. Great job, thanks
Nice and don't use her measuring spoons for 2 cycle oil and stuff :)
Thankyou so much i struggle a lot on body lines this helped me out greatley. I will be looking at all your videos! Again thankyou so much.
You're welcome - once I learned this every thing came together. You can even bend the tape for wheel wells and curved body lines
@@LakesideAutobody I put tap to fallow the body line on my 1972 GMC Suburban to fallow the long body line on it. I had so much trouble until I figured it out it got hit right behind the driver door so I had to work the metal the Best I could without stretching it out and used some painters tap to know where the body line and sanded the bondo. I used that HOT RODZ FLATES paint color laid law yellow pretty close to the school bus color pick that color on accidental so I went with the laid law school bus theme with a white top and painted the wheels white with the dog dish rings and sombrero hub caps with tinted windows it came out really nice for an accident color paint job but just went with it. I was a welder at the time I planned on using it as my work truck but it looked to nice to put metal in the back so I bought a diffrent truck for that. Wish I had RUclips when doing the body work way back then it would have help out and saved time. I did have air tools but it seem like the hand board like you was using worked better than the air board. I still have the air board I prefer the hand board.
@@snoopu2601 I love those '72 Suburbans - toughest looking Chevy for sure.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks yes it did handle pretty good for being a big long truck.
practice, practice, practice is all.
Waiting out the winter ❄️ to paint my 85’ Monte SS its all apart, hoping to be cruising by summer
I love that body style - same with the 442 - nice looking cars - when GM ruled.
@@LakesideAutobody G body style my favorite too owned a 1986 442 sure wished I had it now.
Liked and subscribed, outstanding craftsmanship, great tips!
Thanks - glad you enjoyed the video - thanks for subscribing :)
Lakeside Autobody keep up the great work! 👍
I was hoping to see how you handled that really thick bondo where the cab turned to meet the bed.
Sometimes it'll just pop right off because it's on shiny paint. Or I'll just grab the cheese grater (sureform 1/2 round) and take it off real quick. In that case since it hardened - sand it off quick with 40 on a block.
I've never used the cheese grater, but I can see its usefulness. However, he should be working it in an X pattern, not side to side and straight up and down. JMHO.
Here's a better example of the cheese grater usage. This video was more about the body line - the filler was very thin so I wasn't really cutting too deep with the grater
Good information Sir! One question: after the first sanding of the Bondo, you said you were going to put another coat of filler in the low spots. Do you sand the low areas before adding another layer of filler? If so, what grit aperture do you use? Thanks, Tom
Great ? - I keep a box of used sand paper and I grab a piece of 40 grit from a long board and tear a piece off and rough it up a bit. I'm sure it's ok to put it right over the lows but better to be safe - only takes a second.
Hi
I was priming a car with 2k high build primer but ran out of primer after two coasts. I wanted to spray an additional coat can I spray my last coat a day later without any prep work, or do I have to sand the primer first. Using shop line 2k high build primer
Thanks
I would at least lightly sand it or scuff if because it's 2k - to be sure. It doesn't mention anything on the product sheet though. You can do that with lacquer primer but not 2K stuff.
Looks good, thank you for your videos
You're welcome
how do you know what to charge for something like that repair??
In a body shop the manager writes the estimates and an insurance adjuster makes sure he's on the mark but if you are doing it on the side you would figure out what you're worth per hour and multiple by how many hours you think it will take plus materials. For example that little section might take a total of 8 hours @ $25 plus an easy $100 for paint and materials. Around $300 would be fair starting point. Obviously it will be a lot more at a dealership - it can get pretty expensive fast. Hope that helps a bit.
feather the grinding marks before u bog and mask off the tub. use a guide coat to get the line razor sharp .it takes a long time to get the fell in your hands .not picking on u just sayin
fatf100460 this is sad
The cab is about 1/4 wider than the box - I kept the block flat and never touched it.
Hey,Jerry! Great vids,thank you!. I don't know diddle about body work but trying to learn for a retirement project. Some questions about words and tools body men use in everday language. What is a "bondo hog"? Why/what makes/is a National Detroit DA (dual action) so special over other DA's. What is a interface pad? Thanks!
A bondo hog is somewhat of an orbital sander (it doesn't just go in circles like a grinder - but the action is very aggressive yet flat - perfect for taking down bondo fast. ND makes great quality DA's that have a wobbly geometry to them so that the pad bounces just a bit to expel debris or dust eliminating clogging sand paper. They are not as smooth as a Hutchins but they are more aggressive and paper stays clean. An interface pad is not really necessary as it is a soft pad and would just follow the contour - great for sanding irregular shapes but not great for feather edging and getting panels perfectly straight (my opinion)
Do you always leave the windows in when you paint a truck ???
I haven’t seen anyone use a cheese grater in over 20 years. Why don’t you use a DA or gear drive to knock it down to get it close. Cheese grater is old school out of date
No dust at all - and a lot faster than a bondo hog or any other sander for sure.
Probably because he knows what the hell he’s doing 🤷♂️
Hugh G. Rekshin Plus you can use a cheese grater hundreds of times where as sandpaper wears out after a couple usesMakes a big difference in your overhead too sandpaper is not cheap!
@@scotfirehamer4247 Excellent point!
@@69A12SuperBee Thank you
Nice lesson! Thanks!
You're welcome
Lol i’ve been an autobody tech for 45yrs and never had to tape a line to get it straight i guess the Amateurs like this guy do it though real body men dont need to
That's funny 'cause I was always one of the fastest guys in the shop when it came to filler work. Guys that did it by eye played around for hours - I felt sorry for them actually. They also used tons of primer to make up for the wavy work - I know you've been there - can't say that you haven't if you really have done body work. Nice talking to you as always :)
Unless you’re michael d’angelo i highly doubt that
Nice work.
Thanks
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome - have a great weekend
That was fun taking a look at how used to do it in the 80's. On top of the outdated tools like the cheese grater and the ridiculously think bondo your line is low in front high in the rear and crooked all the way through not to mention to sharp. You taped off the emblem and masked the window. That's embarrassing!
You must be going to school for Auto Body. That's a great thing. Just know that I've seen tons of big talkers come and go through the years. In a body shop you can't just talk, you have to be able to do. No excuses no whining. You'll get humbled fast - if you can get filler straight, framework straight, cut of roofs and put them back on, you're done. Hope that helps you out some day - really. Jerry
Lakeside Autobody funny you should mention school. I was a corporate trainer with 30 years experience. Tech changes and obviously you haven’t changed with it. I’ve repaired over 10,000 cars and now I teach at a votech. We are trying to train the next generation of students to do proper repairs and you have been assigned as an assignment. I won’t show you my students responses. Our goal is to extinguish the rough old school hackery you are demonstrating and show students how to make safer proper repairs. Class dismissed!
To get flat areas straight is an art. This type of work needs a great set of skills. Newer generation type of skills are *almost* all panel replacements, which require less skills to complete.
The people who have this *old* type of skills are well taken care of so they don’t leave an establishment, or can take care of themselves. The people who don’t usually climb up the corporate ladder, or become teachers so they can *teach* their pristine panel replacement basics through a book. Nothing wrong with that.
I saw no hackery on this. It didn’t jeopardize any structural or corrosion integrity. If you want perfect, you gotta do it yourself. If not take it to Pristine Automotive to change a panel that is no longer available.
Great video by the way!
you guys realy know what yous are doing and i apriciat yous took the time to adress a concern i had watching one of your videos i am restoreing an 81 z28 and a 71 t37 lemans and apriciat all the tips i can get.thanks.me and my son will enjoy chaseing each other around one day soon due to all the good tips i learn from people like yous
Thanks - glad you enjoy them.
I'm trying to get back into the body shop scene, gotta redo all my tools since they were all stolen couple years ago, I have mechanic stuff but not body work stuff, I really can't afford snap-on stuff at the moment. Any suggestions to get me started again? Thanks ur vids are great.
Yes - I've had very good luck with harbor freight air tools and used air tools on ebay. Good luck.
@@LakesideAutobody Great thanks for the info
@3G Craftsman They may have one out there that can do both but I would get just a simple DA for you feathering and a separate polisher dedicated to just polishing - just me though.
What grit did you finish with on the DA? Also, do you use an interference pad with the DA after you block it?
Since I hate wasting paper with the DA I first feather edge the rough paint with 80 grit on the bondo hog - then 120 on a national detroit DA - ND because it's agressive - finally finish the outer area with 220 on a palm sander (DA) and scuff with red pad - then prime - no interface pad - Jerry
Good grief man. Tape off that box side panel. Even if yr painting that as well for color match save ur self some effort sanding out deep scratches. Best to sand diagonally holding the sand block as u do.
Diagonal is good but in this case not because I wanted to stay away from the body line. Sanding in every direction is actually the best or even circles sometimes - totally depends on the situation. As for the box, the cab is out further than the box so the board never hit it - but you're right if there was a chance to damage the adjacent panel.
So why can the monkeys who did my driver side sill not get it perfectly straight? First they used body filler and it was still stuck in, second place apparently 'welded a plate' but it arcs out.. just cant win!! It is a better job, but NOT perfect.
There are a lot of guys in body shops that can't get filler straight - new hires, kids out of trade schools, big talkers, etc.
Mask ejacent and window off before you end up scratching them
The cab is out further than the box so the board never hit it - but you're right if there was a chance to damage the adjacent panel.
Put some tape on that boxside edge,,nothing like 40 grit scratches where they don't need to be..I have worked behind many bodymen like you....Ugh
The cab is out further than the box so the board never hit it - but you're right if there was a chance to damage the adjacent panel.
Geezus what he scrape a saw blade!!!??
Stanley 21-299 6x 10" 1/2 Round Regular Cut Surform Replacement Blade - You'll never sand filler w/o it once you start using it.
@@LakesideAutobody I painted my roof and 2k cleared it, it rained 3 hours later and embedded drops in the clearcoat, can I wetsand with 1k 1500k 2000k then buff with compound then polish? Or should I sand and re clear . Thank u
@@ItaliaJP400 I would try wet sanding first with 1500. If that doesn't cut fast enough you can go all the way down to around 800 grit if the water marks won't come out. Then buff if with some good cutting compound. If that doesn't work, you'll have to sand and re-clear. I'd try to buff first though - good luck. I've had water marks before too :)
@@LakesideAutobody wetsanded with 1000 it came out then I went to 2k that's all i had , most of the scratches came out and I buffed with Maguire's compound took a few tries it's starting to look like glass . 👍
I hate when people call it bondo thats just a brand name its body filler ive been doing body work for 34 years nothing special here
I call it that because more folks know it as that - like Kleenex. No problem .... right? That really shouldn't upset a person.
Mask adjacent panel
Off before cut put 80 marks in it .......
The cab is out further than the box so the board never hit it - but you're right if there was a chance to damage the adjacent panel.
mudding and sanding the bedside looks pretty rookie to me
The whole truck has to be painted - plus the truck was purchased specifically to make videos. You can focus on negative stuff or get really good at something. Have a good weekend :)
The how not do it video, sanding all over the adjacent panel!!! are you serious?
You mean the bed? Never saw him touch it, what are you exactly on about?
???
Strange.... block ing👎.... good thing it's going white
Instructors teach to always sand diagonal but in the real world that's not always the case. I sand every different way sometimes diag., straight, up, down, in circles, etc - always depends on the job and your body work will come out perfect.
Wow this guy obviously doesn’t do this for a living lol!
Negativity and drama look horrible on men. Hopefully this channel can be a place where people help each other other out. If you're talking about not masking the quarter or the door check it out at the end - not a scratch - just some uncured hardener that will easily pop off of the shiny paint. The best thing about working with other men at a body shop is you could always let your work do the talking - ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html
Bondo is a brand not a product!
Most folks recognize it as Bondo - but you're right it's body filler or plastic filler
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