Great tips, Man! Masking tape to protect areas you don't want covered 👍, mixing the cream hardener before use to homogenize it 👍, removing the tape and filler drippings before it's fully cured 👍 For sanding I use a random orbit sander and to help find high and low spots I use a strong flashlight lighting the surface from a slant 😉
This guy ROCKS!. why? Cuz now you can buy a vintage car and know that you can bring it to back to life no matter how much its been modified. RESURRECT an old car and you resurrect the beauty, dreams and soul of the original owner -- the feeling you get when she roars again is priceless!!!
Man i love the way you explain the process, im a 56 year old man my son bought a new car and gave me his 99 single cab sport bed red xtream s10 that I always thought looked so cool im thinking of doing the bodywork myself, although it is a little intimidating, but I don't have the money to have someone else do it so im going to try thanks for your time
Thank you so much for this video sir. I'm a rookie body tech assistant and my lead hasn't really taught me much about the techniques of body filler spreading and sanding. This helped a lot. Cheers and thumbs up!
I’m using bondo to fill gaps in a 3D printed part. I wasn’t expecting this to be so informative. I feel like I know what I’m doing now, despite being in a different area of work. Thank you.
Thanks for getting right into it. A lot of Bondo videos I have been watching do a lot of blah blah blah instead of getting right into how to actually do the thing.
WARNING : just to let Amateurs know... you should always wear a proper respirator + Goggles when sanding or painting etc... unless you like chronic chest problems or missing eye syndrome , i would also recommend overalls , ventilated area , gloves , steel toe boots , patience
I've been doing this for 20 years, while smoking cigarettes and my doctor says I have the lungs of an 18 yr old. Different strokes for different folks smart ass
thanks ! i started working in a body shop like 2 months ago and each time i try to lay the mastic and finition putty the other guys need to re-do the job cause i did sum' wrong, hope your tips will get me on the right way! thanks again!
Dude. You are an artist. This is an art form. I absolutely cannot do this. I make a total mess every time. I need some body work done because of corrosion and some damage to a panel and I don't know where to start and can't afford to pay a pro at the moment so I have been watching RUclips videos. LOL
A Great idea for beginners! Keep up the great videos. I’ve been doing Body & paint since 1986. I’m glad I can do it now with the price of getting a car painted. Yikes. $10k +.
Hey just wanted to say great video I'm pretty new at this Body work stuff and trying to work on my truck I bought two years ago 2002 GMC Sonoma. It only has 56,000 miles on it original so it seems worth it to try to keep this body going on it. Thanks again. Taught me alot already just watching your video. Have a great holiday
Don't know where you went to school, but I did learn this in school!! Autobody and auto mechanics were required courses (for boys) in our school!! Of course, this was back in the late 70's and early 80's. Sorry everyone want's to be communists today, and have everything handed to them on a free silver platter. Kids don't learn shit today, and don't have the braincells god gave a goose!!!!
@@Anarchy-Is-Liberty Well, we learn this stuff if we go to VoTech. I’m personally not going because I’m focusing on the college path so I can learn more on stuff that will help me in agriculture. But even then, I’m still doing auto-body and mechanics. I’m learning a lot of the auto body stuff from RUclips, and most of the mechanics from my dad. Right now I’m working on our old farm truck, a 1965 Chevy C60 that’s sat for about 55 years doing nothing. The deal that my dad gave me is if I get any of our old trucks running I get to keep them. Currently I have 4 in line, the C60, a 1983 Chevy Silverado C10, 1977 F100 or 150 I haven’t looked at it yet, and a 1973 F600 It’s really fun to do and really handy when you’re car breaks down and need to know what’s wrong. Definitely going to be something I’m going to do if I have kids. Give them an old truck that doesn’t run and they get to keep it if they get it running.
It's a training video I'm 45 been doing bodywork since 1999 I have learned stuff from everyone I do rims interiors bodywork I'm welding now and Aluminum lol and I wasn't trained at school or at a school so hey even if already know that simple go to the next video because I shit u know if stop thinking u know it all trust me u don't learn from everyone chemicals change technology changes managers change u will change lol don't get fooled u are always replaced ill take a less experienced tech with a good attitude then the asshole that believes he's the shit those techs that teach and share info or jump on the repair with u those bastereds are fucking amazing BODY TECHS
@@uniquekustumsandrimshudson5220 amen brother! Anytime I meet a tech that introduces themselves as an "A tech" instead of just a body guy, I laugh. I'm a body guy. I don't care about your letter, only your attitude and attention to detail and care for the job at hand.
We are just starting to do this, on about a 100 little scratches, dings& rust. Had not heard of putty after Bondo. But I see the difference. Also, nice demonstrations. grill
WOW....absolutely loved your vid and the commentary!... I have my own cars that need some work this summer...a 2007 Dodge Caravan and a 1994 Toyota Tercel. I was really stoked on your presentation ....thanks again
Nice video, i generally knock the filler down with 80 grit then 120 then 240 ready for primer. Sometimes i just go strait in with a 120 then 240.. I just think the finer you get it before primer the less likely to get any scratches show through later on. Each to our own.
Nice calm and informative video,easy to follow.I started my first paint project on my daily,that has been body filled badly by the previous owner,filler is on to thick and the paint was orange peal,so not very good and it started to rust on some spots,so i'm taking matters into my own hands.😅
Hi Donnie. Been following you a couple years now. You do great work. One thing I struggle with is doing filler in compound, tight curves like in bumpers especially under the tail lights where it curves. Also, Last generation Honda accords have 2 hard body lines in a compound curve. I had a job that took 3 hours to do the filler work because of that. Any tips/videos on that?
You do a great job. Very clear and easy to understand. If you wore a T-shirt with your "Car Addict Garage" logo on it, it might remind your audience who you are throughout the video. Good promotional item, too! Nice background music.
Tips! fiberglass resin thins out bondo so you can make it as thin as you want. Never lay up bondo thicker then 1/16" thick at a time or you will get air pockets in it and the paint will blister after a while. I use clean bondo dust and rub it on the final coat and this helps so your sand paper doesn't clog up so much. Just try to rub the dust on lightly while the bondo is still tacky.
This is a tip for disaster, the fiberglass resin does not cure correctly and thats why you cant sand it without rubbing dust on it. If you need to thin plastic filler get the honey thinner made to do this.
I enjoyed watching your video…nothing really new to me except for your 2-part glazing putty…but well presented. My only question is, what’s with all the hand sanding? I would opt for a 2” or 3” DA sander or an in-line sander to get the bulk of the material off, then go for a 3 x 7 manual pad sander with vacuum dust collection. The dust collection is not necessary if you’re working outside or in an open shop, but it does reveal any little pin holes that could show up later in the paint. I always use compressed air to blow off the area, even if I am using a vacuum. Keep up the good work educating people about autobody repair!! Thank you 😎
Great video! But I would as a suggestion use a paint stick or 5gal paint stick modified to sand this area....much better access to the fender so it's not as bulky as a block
You will do well with this trade! Doing something you love doing. Don’t give your work away. When everyone you know expects a favor the fun disappears. Before you know it you will be retiring.
Thank you for making this video Donnie, it's very helpful for DIY guys like me. BTW Maybe you could mention the product you are using in future videos.
I like to lay a nice even coat making sure get it as uniform as possible and laying it on a bit on the thick side then before it’s completely hard I add filler right over my lows before I even begin any blocking or sanding. After that I DA with 40 grit to really get it knocked down then block with 80. Then I go from there
My holes are too big on my truck to do it like this I used Bondo patches but it didn't work good doing that. I should of used adhesive fiberglass patches. Am almost ready to start sanding my truck soon though wanna see how it will turn out. But if I have to do it all over again gonna use the fiberglass adhesive patches to put over the holes then use some more body filler. This is the first time I did try to fix holes on a truck from rust and my truck is 14 years old and had built a lot of rust over the years.
Your video is very helpful, I know this video is old but I am glad I came across it, I have a 66 Chevelle I am restoring I have her stripped to bare metal, and have replaced what sheet metal had to be replaced, now I want to go over some of the little dings and dents, would you recommend the car be epoxy prime first, or do my BONDO ding and dents first, and also I have used Dyno-Glass it works great and is tough as nails when cured, so that is what I will also use as well on the dings and minor dents. what do you think? or should I just use straight BONDO, I do know the reg. BONDO is easier to sand, any help would be appreciated.
With the blocking technique showed, you may as have just used a DA. Only when you have no other choice should you use a sanding block sideways. The block should move in line with it's length. With this being edge damage and it only being twice as wide as the block, the sanding motions should have been in a 'X' pattern. Blocking from lower left to upper right and vice versa. You will find the end result will come faster and more true. What's more, in my 33 years in the business I have never needed a guide coat. If I can't feel it, you can't see it. Blocking primer you can see the color and texture changes that really take the place of guide coat.
jerry bushman im a noob and the only guide coat i use is the primer i lay down to prevent rust over night.. use your hands not your eyes.. your sense of touch is better than you eye sight..
I do a lot. But in many of the videos, I am demonstrating how to if you don't have all of the power tools. But an air file or 8 inch sander can work well on some body filler. I normally don't like to use a DA sander on body filler because it does not level well and can make it lumpy if you're not careful. Thanks for watching.
only question left with me is next time can you show the before damage so we get a mental pic of what your working with.... great video otherwise....inquiring minds ya know
Thought the same, only cuz I’m curious how he tackles an area of damage. Like how far away he sands, what his rule of thumb is when tackling any damaged area. Love the vid tho
Lovely Video! Excuse me for the intrusion, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you heard about - Tarbbatigan Cars Rehabilitation Tip (do a search on google)? It is an awesome one of a kind guide for learning how to repair your car the easy way minus the normal expense. Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my best friend Jordan got astronomical success with it.
Thanks for the great video...but...THE best "trick" to using body filler...is not to use it at all, or to such a minimum amount that it is little more than pinhole filler, but that too can be remedies with body lead and correct metalwork.
Most that don't know what they're doing.. Is always best to start with 36 . Esp when it's not set 100 % like he said. Anything less will not plain the surface.
i may have some questions later when i get ready to make the repairs to a 98 mustang gt. car has passenger side fender peeled back to front of passenger door however flared front edge of door and caused a circular wrinkle just under side mirror, replaced fender with used fender from a salvage yard which was perfect and not wrecked. any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
another tip... I found that the filler, even when cured. will be tacky on the surface, and ca clog your sand paper. A trick I came across, is to wipe it down with thinner before sanding. Saves on wasted sand paper
Very nicely done and quite informative. One question - what do you use in between sanding to clean up the dust? Tack cloth or something else? Thanks and keep the great videos coming!
I need to start using putty... I learned without and is very difficult sometimes. So putty will speed it up big time. And I never thought of taping off with filler, how smart is that? Two great points. Thanks!
Thanks for the vide. 1.) What's the purpose of putty after putting the bondo? 2.) Should I use different bondo for metal quarter panel and for bumpers? 3.) What about fillers? Are there different ones for metal and for bumpers? Thanks :)
Hey man thank you for the great videos. Question for you: do you have to remove all paint before applying body filler, or can you apply the body filler over the scuffed paint? Thank you
You "can" apply over ROUGHLY sanded paint (40,60,80 grit) but it's considered poor form. It's best to sand to bare metal, clean with wax & grease remover (or lacquer thinner) then apply filler.
I have a question, I need to replace my front fender on my truck with a new fender. Should I prime and paint it before I put it on the truck, or after? And is it difficult to line it up to the rest of the front of the truck?
R&I the door after the fit you want. While fender is bolted to car fix the dents usually 1 coat filler sand with 80 DA any over sand with 180, skim coat with putty, block with 180, soft pad DA WITH 320, prime. Block primer with 320 then soft DA 320 real quick, send to paint. Painters happy everybody’s happy. 2hr. Fix easy RO says 6.
Check current body filler cost at amzn.to/3tL52IG
Oooo
Are u in chicago ?
Link broken
Great tips, Man! Masking tape to protect areas you don't want covered 👍, mixing the cream hardener before use to homogenize it 👍, removing the tape and filler drippings before it's fully cured 👍
For sanding I use a random orbit sander and to help find high and low spots I use a strong flashlight lighting the surface from a slant 😉
This guy ROCKS!. why? Cuz now you can buy a vintage car and know that you can bring it to back to life no matter how much its been modified. RESURRECT an old car and you resurrect the beauty, dreams and soul of the original owner -- the feeling you get when she roars again is priceless!!!
Man i love the way you explain the process, im a 56 year old man my son bought a new car and gave me his 99 single cab sport bed red xtream s10 that I always thought looked so cool im thinking of doing the bodywork myself, although it is a little intimidating, but I don't have the money to have someone else do it so im going to try thanks for your time
Thank you so much for this video sir. I'm a rookie body tech assistant and my lead hasn't really taught me much about the techniques of body filler spreading and sanding. This helped a lot. Cheers and thumbs up!
@Mike Duffany Why? Seems accurate to me
I’m using bondo to fill gaps in a 3D printed part. I wasn’t expecting this to be so informative. I feel like I know what I’m doing now, despite being in a different area of work. Thank you.
Bondo is just a cheap shitty store brand of body filler haha. Unless that is the brand you have then sorry sir. Evercoat makes the best in my opinion
Thanks for getting right into it. A lot of Bondo videos I have been watching do a lot of blah blah blah instead of getting right into how to actually do the thing.
Glad to see you back great video thanks for the helpful tips you help me a lot
WARNING : just to let Amateurs know... you should always wear a proper respirator + Goggles when sanding or painting etc... unless you like chronic chest problems or missing eye syndrome , i would also recommend overalls , ventilated area , gloves , steel toe boots , patience
Thank you. Someone had to say it.
Na takes to long get in the garage and send it
I've been doing this for 20 years, while smoking cigarettes and my doctor says I have the lungs of an 18 yr old. Different strokes for different folks smart ass
I’m doing it outside, I’ll be fine ✋🏼 I’m also drinking beer, OSHA
Thank you 🙏
thanks ! i started working in a body shop like 2 months ago and each time i try to lay the mastic and finition putty the other guys need to re-do the job cause i did sum' wrong, hope your tips will get me on the right way! thanks again!
Learned so much on this RUclips channel rather than auto-body school...keep them coming!
I am glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching!
Dude. You are an artist. This is an art form. I absolutely cannot do this. I make a total mess every time. I need some body work done because of corrosion and some damage to a panel and I don't know where to start and can't afford to pay a pro at the moment so I have been watching RUclips videos. LOL
has to be one of the clearest example of to make an to the point how to exploitation, Great Video
A Great idea for beginners! Keep up the great videos. I’ve been doing Body & paint since 1986. I’m glad I can do it now with the price of getting a car painted. Yikes. $10k +.
Hey just wanted to say great video I'm pretty new at this Body work stuff and trying to work on my truck I bought two years ago 2002 GMC Sonoma. It only has 56,000 miles on it original so it seems worth it to try to keep this body going on it. Thanks again. Taught me alot already just watching your video. Have a great holiday
This is so helpful y didn’t we learn this in school lol can’t wait to use this at work
Don't know where you went to school, but I did learn this in school!! Autobody and auto mechanics were required courses (for boys) in our school!! Of course, this was back in the late 70's and early 80's. Sorry everyone want's to be communists today, and have everything handed to them on a free silver platter. Kids don't learn shit today, and don't have the braincells god gave a goose!!!!
@@Anarchy-Is-Liberty
Well, we learn this stuff if we go to VoTech. I’m personally not going because I’m focusing on the college path so I can learn more on stuff that will help me in agriculture. But even then, I’m still doing auto-body and mechanics. I’m learning a lot of the auto body stuff from RUclips, and most of the mechanics from my dad. Right now I’m working on our old farm truck, a 1965 Chevy C60 that’s sat for about 55 years doing nothing. The deal that my dad gave me is if I get any of our old trucks running I get to keep them. Currently I have 4 in line, the C60, a 1983 Chevy Silverado C10, 1977 F100 or 150 I haven’t looked at it yet, and a 1973 F600
It’s really fun to do and really handy when you’re car breaks down and need to know what’s wrong.
Definitely going to be something I’m going to do if I have kids. Give them an old truck that doesn’t run and they get to keep it if they get it running.
It's a training video I'm 45 been doing bodywork since 1999 I have learned stuff from everyone I do rims interiors bodywork I'm welding now and Aluminum lol and I wasn't trained at school or at a school so hey even if already know that simple go to the next video because I shit u know if stop thinking u know it all trust me u don't learn from everyone chemicals change technology changes managers change u will change lol don't get fooled u are always replaced ill take a less experienced tech with a good attitude then the asshole that believes he's the shit those techs that teach and share info or jump on the repair with u those bastereds are fucking amazing BODY TECHS
@@uniquekustumsandrimshudson5220 yea I keep reading books and watching videos to keep my self informed and updates on new stuff.
@@uniquekustumsandrimshudson5220 amen brother! Anytime I meet a tech that introduces themselves as an "A tech" instead of just a body guy, I laugh. I'm a body guy. I don't care about your letter, only your attitude and attention to detail and care for the job at hand.
We are just starting to do this, on about a 100 little scratches, dings& rust. Had not heard of putty after Bondo. But I see the difference. Also, nice demonstrations. grill
Hi. Thanx Thanx Thanx!!! Your video is just what I needed. Thanx again for the post
nice im in the middle of some repairs just like this thanks for reassuring me i was doing alright
Just started a job at a body shop. This helped a lot! Thanks man.
Great to hear!
Super helpful I'm about to do some body work on my bike. Appreciate it!
Fantastic video, very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
WOW....absolutely loved your vid and the commentary!... I have my own cars that need some work this summer...a 2007 Dodge Caravan and a 1994 Toyota Tercel. I was really stoked on your presentation ....thanks again
Nice video, i generally knock the filler down with 80 grit then 120 then 240 ready for primer. Sometimes i just go strait in with a 120 then 240.. I just think the finer you get it before primer the less likely to get any scratches show through later on. Each to our own.
very helpful.. never was able to get the hardener, filler mixture right before now.. Thanks....
Nice calm and informative video,easy to follow.I started my first paint project on my daily,that has been body filled badly by the previous owner,filler is on to thick and the paint was orange peal,so not very good and it started to rust on some spots,so i'm taking matters into my own hands.😅
thank you.....been looking for hours on how to use masking when applying putty....excellent vid and very informative
I am glad you found the video useful.
You gotta be kidding.
Hi Donnie. Been following you a couple years now. You do great work. One thing I struggle with is doing filler in compound, tight curves like in bumpers especially under the tail lights where it curves. Also, Last generation Honda accords have 2 hard body lines in a compound curve. I had a job that took 3 hours to do the filler work because of that. Any tips/videos on that?
thanks donnie i have learned a lot from you man!
You do a great job. Very clear and easy to understand. If you wore a T-shirt with your "Car Addict Garage" logo on it, it might remind your audience who you are throughout the video. Good promotional item, too! Nice background music.
Awesome video. Thanks for the tips
Thank you very much. A big help for me. I am in Central CO and lots of BIG hail.
Donnie, really nice presentation. You held my interest throughout the video. Nice music and great editing...
Thanks for watching.
rock on brother thanks for the tips liked the suggestion
great video, thanks for the demonstration
Thank you for sharing this video helped me out a lot
Thanks for posting this.
Thank you for sharing this great info!
Thx man!! A lot of help!!👍🏽
Very helpful video thank you.
Good tip with the cloth feeling the highs and lows of the filler and metal. It takes years of developing the touch by bare hand.
lot of people like using that method. Thanks for watching!
This is very helpful I have never done this before I had no idea you needed to put putty on top of everything
It is not required, but glaze putty helps and will not require as much primer surfacer.
Tips! fiberglass resin thins out bondo so you can make it as thin as you want. Never lay up bondo thicker then 1/16" thick at a time or you will get air pockets in it and the paint will blister after a while. I use clean bondo dust and rub it on the final coat and this helps so your sand paper doesn't clog up so much. Just try to rub the dust on lightly while the bondo is still tacky.
This is a tip for disaster, the fiberglass resin does not cure correctly and thats why you cant sand it without rubbing dust on it. If you need to thin plastic filler get the honey thinner made to do this.
just use supercharger
I enjoyed watching your video…nothing really new to me except for your 2-part glazing putty…but well presented. My only question is, what’s with all the hand sanding? I would opt for a 2” or 3” DA sander or an in-line sander to get the bulk of the material off, then go for a 3 x 7 manual pad sander with vacuum dust collection. The dust collection is not necessary if you’re working outside or in an open shop, but it does reveal any little pin holes that could show up later in the paint. I always use compressed air to blow off the area, even if I am using a vacuum.
Keep up the good work educating people about autobody repair!! Thank you 😎
Nicely done video, really nice work!
Thanks for watching. I have a lesson on body filler you may also find interesting. www.collisionblast.com/body-fillers/
Great video! But I would as a suggestion use a paint stick or 5gal paint stick modified to sand this area....much better access to the fender so it's not as bulky as a block
very helpful thanks for sharing
NICE....appreciate the video!
this is where I might consider wearing a mask
Real helpful thanks brother
I went to the trade school to learn this this year and it's been the most fun i've ever had at school xD
Where did you go to school at or how? I want to
You will do well with this trade! Doing something you love doing. Don’t give your work away. When everyone you know expects a favor the fun disappears. Before you know it you will be retiring.
Nice work. My only problem was that every t8me the music turned on I had to turn my volume off, them back 9n when you were talking again.
Thank you!
Thank you for making this video Donnie, it's very helpful for DIY guys like me. BTW Maybe you could mention the product you are using in future videos.
Thanks for the suggestion and the comment. Have a good one!
good job man!
Great Video! Thanks for sharing!
Sekushii Adamina You're welcome, thanks for watching!
I like to lay a nice even coat making sure get it as uniform as possible and laying it on a bit on the thick side then before it’s completely hard I add filler right over my lows before I even begin any blocking or sanding. After that I DA with 40 grit to really get it knocked down then block with 80. Then I go from there
My holes are too big on my truck to do it like this I used Bondo patches but it didn't work good doing that. I should of used adhesive fiberglass patches. Am almost ready to start sanding my truck soon though wanna see how it will turn out. But if I have to do it all over again gonna use the fiberglass adhesive patches to put over the holes then use some more body filler. This is the first time I did try to fix holes on a truck from rust and my truck is 14 years old and had built a lot of rust over the years.
Thanks from NJ !
Good tech video, thanks
Your video is very helpful, I know this video is old but I am glad I came across it, I have a 66 Chevelle I am restoring I have her stripped to bare metal, and have replaced what sheet metal had to be replaced, now I want to go over some of the little dings and dents, would you recommend the car be epoxy prime first, or do my BONDO ding and dents first, and also I have used Dyno-Glass it works great and is tough as nails when cured, so that is what I will also use as well on the dings and minor dents. what do you think? or should I just use straight BONDO, I do know the reg. BONDO is easier to sand, any help would be appreciated.
You are a craftsman
I would have just buzzed it with 80 on the orbital and then blocked it out.
With the blocking technique showed, you may as have just used a DA. Only when you have no other choice should you use a sanding block sideways. The block should move in line with it's length. With this being edge damage and it only being twice as wide as the block, the sanding motions should have been in a 'X' pattern. Blocking from lower left to upper right and vice versa. You will find the end result will come faster and more true. What's more, in my 33 years in the business I have never needed a guide coat. If I can't feel it, you can't see it. Blocking primer you can see the color and texture changes that really take the place of guide coat.
jerry bushman well a guide coat is good for newbies, it teaches them the feel
Hey you no alot thanks fuh d info
jerry bushman im a noob and the only guide coat i use is the primer i lay down to prevent rust over night.. use your hands not your eyes.. your sense of touch is better than you eye sight..
unless your primer is white, then you need a guide coat
Never guide coat. There’s enough orange peel in the primer
Great job!!!!
Wow, what a great and helpful video. I loved it. I'm curious why you dont use a power sander at all?
I do a lot. But in many of the videos, I am demonstrating how to if you don't have all of the power tools. But an air file or 8 inch sander can work well on some body filler. I normally don't like to use a DA sander on body filler because it does not level well and can make it lumpy if you're not careful. Thanks for watching.
only question left with me is next time can you show the before damage so we get a mental pic of what your working with.... great video otherwise....inquiring minds ya know
Thought the same, only cuz I’m curious how he tackles an area of damage. Like how far away he sands, what his rule of thumb is when tackling any damaged area. Love the vid tho
@@ahdasick he did in the video before this one- hammering out the damage
Lovely Video! Excuse me for the intrusion, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you heard about - Tarbbatigan Cars Rehabilitation Tip (do a search on google)? It is an awesome one of a kind guide for learning how to repair your car the easy way minus the normal expense. Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my best friend Jordan got astronomical success with it.
This video was so satisfying to watch I’m not a car guy 🤔
Thanks for the great video...but...THE best "trick" to using body filler...is not to use it at all, or to such a minimum amount that it is little more than pinhole filler, but that too can be remedies with body lead and correct metalwork.
awesome, many thanks
Reminds me of a mechanic shop that just took on a body repair.
starting off with 36 grit sandpaper!! You're a bad man!! Most wouldve sanded all their bondo off!
Most that don't know what they're doing.. Is always best to start with 36 . Esp when it's not set 100 % like he said. Anything less will not plain the surface.
i may have some questions later when i get ready to make the repairs to a 98 mustang gt.
car has passenger side fender peeled back to front of passenger door however flared front edge of door and caused a circular wrinkle just under side mirror, replaced fender with used fender from a salvage yard which was perfect and not wrecked. any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
Can you post a tips tricks for door seam sealer to get factory beed seams
Was looking for what to do right before you apply body filler, prep solvent , vs lacquer thinner?
Thanks for the video one question what's the second song?
another tip... I found that the filler, even when cured. will be tacky on the surface, and ca clog your sand paper. A trick I came across, is to wipe it down with thinner before sanding. Saves on wasted sand paper
can you use wet/dry sandpaper, when filling small dents, @ bondo stage & putty?
Very nicely done and quite informative. One question - what do you use in between sanding to clean up the dust? Tack cloth or something else? Thanks and keep the great videos coming!
I just blow a little air on it
Blow gun
What the greatest job
In Texas my bondo/glaze will dry in typically 1 minute :D
I need to start using putty... I learned without and is very difficult sometimes. So putty will speed it up big time. And I never thought of taping off with filler, how smart is that? Two great points. Thanks!
This is why you should take a magnet to the used car lot.
Nice work
Good stuff. So high build primer next? Directly over filler
Thanks for the vide.
1.) What's the purpose of putty after putting the bondo?
2.) Should I use different bondo for metal quarter panel and for bumpers?
3.) What about fillers? Are there different ones for metal and for bumpers?
Thanks :)
I made a video response to help answer your question. ruclips.net/video/gP4ukrIhC5k/видео.html
I also have a lesson on plastic repair you may find useful at www.collisionblast.com/2013/04/02/plastic-repair/
Israel Kelley exactly. I almost never just use bondo as filler. I always mix it with glaze to stop the pinholes.
Hey man thank you for the great videos. Question for you: do you have to remove all paint before applying body filler, or can you apply the body filler over the scuffed paint?
Thank you
You "can" apply over ROUGHLY sanded paint (40,60,80 grit) but it's considered poor form. It's best to sand to bare metal, clean with wax & grease remover (or lacquer thinner) then apply filler.
I have a question, I need to replace my front fender on my truck with a new fender. Should I prime and paint it before I put it on the truck, or after? And is it difficult to line it up to the rest of the front of the truck?
Now I know the right way to lay down and sand body filler and putty!
Randy Hoepker Glad you found the video useful. Thanks for watching!
I subbed. Thanks.
You are the man thanks again brother....
You're welcome...thanks for watching!
great video
Nice job. Looks like a LOT of work. I better just scrap my current car and buy another one
hello nice video,than the putty is over 1 year expaier is good to use or not?becuse i use that and i see its hard t mix and aplay in metal.
R&I the door after the fit you want. While fender is bolted to car fix the dents usually 1 coat filler sand with 80 DA any over sand with 180, skim coat with putty, block with 180, soft pad DA WITH 320, prime. Block primer with 320 then soft DA 320 real quick, send to paint. Painters happy everybody’s happy. 2hr. Fix easy RO says 6.
Very useful
Thanks for the tips. Are you going to be doing any more on your early Mustang?
Yes, I plan to soon. Hopefully by the end of this month or the first of next month. Thanks for watching.
I hope I can impress my boss by watching this and getting that good
Bro i feel you. Im 6 months in my first paint and body shop with no experience and my boss has kinda thrown me in and makes me figure it out.
Fantastic
Thanks boss!
You remind me of Ricky Bobby and that is an awesome thing