Fiberglassing The Armstrong Mounts And More Prep For Coosa!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- Another step closer to having things ready for the new core! I caught something while editing the video that I can't believe I missed lol, are you able to pick it out?
Support the companies that help to make these videos possible (their products are the best otherwise I would not be using them!!) Learn more about them below:
Totalboat: bit.ly/2X4wT0ZT...
Alexseal Yacht Coatings: bit.ly/2tdNzZKA...
SoftSand Rubber Nonskid Discount 10% OFF when you use code BWT10
www.softsandrub...
Order Total Boat Supplies HERE and Help Support Boatworks Today with your purchase!:
bit.ly/2E1a0or
** Looking for help with your project? Check out my Patreon page for consultation options!
/ boatworkstoday
*** Need help choosing the best resin for your project? Download our fiberglass Resin Guide:
bit.ly/2PCr72e
**** Subscribe To This Channel!!
www.youtube.co...
***** Shop our Amazon store for the materials used in this video!
www.amazon.com...
There is additional content and ad-free versions of these video’s available for Patreon supporters! Please click below to find out more!!
/ boatworkstoday
#BoatworksToday #TotalBoat #Alexseal
1/8” bungs in the holes. Easily drilled out into the new coosa. Good stuff.
Andy, The more you cut the transom core out from in behind the stringers the harder to put in the new coring in as a single transverse piece. You will need to feed the new cores sideways into the areas behind those stringers and you can't go left and right at the same time so you will end up with some kind of vertical joint in each layer of core material. Pre-plan to stagger the joint on each successive layer of core. Good luck with it
When i did my and my friend's transoms, I used the bracket holes to help get the new transom tight to the existing back, made a template, cut the new transom material and adjust it to fit as perfect as possible in its place, drilled the same holes from the existing transom. I bought the cheapest screws and put on the other side if the new transom material pieces of 2x4 or 4x4 with the biggest length possible, the screws went through them. so the new transom would be really really be pulled/tighten against the existing transom, put thickened resin (vinyester resing and cabosil) on the existing transom, with the least catalyst possible, to have time to work, spread the thickened resin and tighten all the screws while the thickened resing wasn't even flashing, had everything needed at hand, spreaded the thickened resin with a triangular dented trowel to give it some space to run to, and before that I had put a layer of 1.5 stranded mat on the face of the new transom material, before drilling the bracket holes, just to give it better adhesion, waited a day (I was working only every saturday, so it was a week or two) took all the screws out and it is hard like a rock, then put the layers of 1708 inside, but that's the next step.
Most of this I learned from your videos, for which I thank you, some other parts I, and my friend, had to figure it out on our own.
Hope this helps.
Hi Andy. I would normally use the holes to put bolts in to make sure the material is pulled home. If you didn't need all the holes, a bit of plasticine does wonders. The laminating resin we have in the UK doesn't have to have the air excluded to cure. Des.
I love that these videos get released right when I get to work on sundays. Makes the day go by faster
I was a little surprised that you used fairing compound to build up the keyholes and not lay up a couple few layers of glass. Did you go that route because it's quicker/easier and knowing that it would be adequate because the Coosa is really what will give the transom its strength? I believe that's why but wonder if others might question it as well?
Love the channel!
Andy you are so talented with glass. I would haul a boat a thousand miles to your shop for repair because I know when it’s done it’s right. Spend some time and take care of yourself. You look a little worn around the edges. I totally enjoy your videos. Jim
Andy! Great work throughout all the builds your channel is awesome. Could I suggest a quick episode for you? I have a fishing boat and need to make some fiberglass over plywood storage boxes for under my seat pedestals. It would be cool to get your take on the project and also help out a bunch of us DIY guys with our smaller weekend projects. Keep up the good work man you rock!
This transom is a perfect candidate for Seacast pourable transom. Your spending immense time trying desk with the angle of the transom. If you layer up a new inner skin you can pour Seacast and be done in 1/2 the time. I know Coosa is a buzz word now, but Seacast pours easy, bonds to your glass, and is rock solid.
To stop epoxy from coming through a few small thru-hulls on a small project, I used rubber stoppers pushed in from the outside. Some epoxy got into the inner side of the holes, but that was easily drilled out, and no sloppy drips on the outside gelcoat.
You are so good and an inspiration! Keep up the good work! 👍😛
Hi Andy & all,
Glad to see you back on the Bertram. I'm doing exactly the same thing with my old SeaRay 270 Amberjack. At the point of deciding whether or not to rip out ALL of the old wooden core. I plan to go back with a Coosa like product called Spacetec made in Fargo ND. Appears to be the same stuff. Very interested what kind of added bracing you come up with for your new transom. I'm looking at adding a battery shelf and knees down to the bottom. Fortunately my Armstrong bracket is not glued to transom, just bolted up for alignment. Great info in the videos keep'em coming.
Top quality audio and video production!
Vacuum bagging sticky tape for plugging the holes. Roll it up press it in. Works a treat.
Recent subscriber/viewer, have to say I admire your whole thing, steady uploads for many years, great job on both quality of work and explanations, it seems you have built quite a business, awesome channel.
so I know im wrong but wonder why you put fairing compound on. atleast in my mind "small as it is" I feel it will be the weak point as far as bonding the cossa board to it think it should have been built up with glass but thats just me.love the videos I feel like I have learned something after every one.thanks andy
Interesting project that I am enjoying following. Thanks, Andy.
If you want to temporarily plug some holes, just glue in some soft wood dowels. Real easy to drill out later. By the way, the only tape that can easily hold up to the heat of curing epoxy or polyester and leak and fall away is 3M aluminum duct tape. It’s great stuff to use on the bottom sides of decks when glassing the top to contain running through, build a retention berm or a form to build into. Peel off later or leave it in if its hidden. To prep the the wood for the tape to stick a quick wipe of xylene works great. I you need to remove the tape don’t wait too long after your work has cured. To remove the tape’s residual glue use xylene.
Andy you have contributed to this trade by way more than you think. You havea demina thsts engaging and sensiour. The videeos are awsome and Im going to be a patrion.
Jim from Australia
Love your show mate. I always
Look forward each week to see what you are getting up to on that project
I remember you said you where not sure the boat material? If that's true and I'm not mistaken then you have introduced a weak spot at every whole, there will be a thin layer of polyester now between unknown glass and coosa. Also can you not use pva release agent in spray bottle to set the polyester off?
The great music goes a long way towards making these vids all that more enjoyable.
Watching someone sand fiberglass and knowing he is itching all over is way more enjoyable.
I've always wondered why not just use some poly resin with wax added? That saves the extra step of the gelcoat. Over the years I've done it 3 ways ... gelcoat over like you do, ... use resin with wax added , ... or add wax to the resin myself. Had good luck either way but I do have to say it seems to sand much better with the gelcoat applied over.
Andy So good! Thank you! I have a question for you; if you were to extend the glass out to where you laid in the epoxy corners, will you go over it with Poly resin?
In my ignorance I would have thought fairing and gelcoat inbetween those deep layers would be a problem with delamination in the future? Wouldn't they cause a problem with creating a structural bond between the glass underneath them and the new glass?
Gluing some wooden dowels into those holes after you get the board so you can drill out the wooden dowels from inside the bracket
You beat me to it👍
Very informative, thanks for producing this and all your previous videos, Cheers
Try a hydrostream, pretty much the whole hull after you cut the top off has things that look like the bottom of the transom that need to be ground down
Why did you use laminating resin, couldn't you have used regular resin and saved the gelcoat step? Also, could you have tapped wood dowels into those holes and just drilled them out when refastening the Armstrong bracket? Just seemed like a lot of extra work and time.
i must say you inspired me to do somethiung "different" after my summer pool project failed i watched some videos on youtube and one of them was your boat building fiberglass toutorial and now my pool is being fiberglassed step by step
pools are inside out boats after all right? especially wooden free standing ones
it is my first fiberglass project but so far i didn't run out of anything and didn't waste much resin either, so i think watching your videos tought me well
keep up good work on your boat projects and inspire other people to move their ases instead of crying if something goes wrong
Hi, are you ever going to continue this project? Been following this from three beginning and would love to see the finished product. 👍
Can you talk about repairing or rebuilding engine mounts? Can we use epoxy resin? Must it be wood with fiberglass layers? I've had a suggestion of using Stong-Tie epoxy...? Thank you so much.
Why did you use fairing compound and gel coat? Wouldn’t it be a better bond. Fiberglass to fiberglass without a layer of gel oat and fairing compound between the fiberglass
Andy, if you were going to glass the holes for the Armstrong bracket like you did, why not do it just before installing the Coosa so you get a primary bond instead of letting it cure and relying on a mechanical bond? You said you did not want to use tape as it t would create an unbounded area, so I am wondering why not go for the strongest bond possible.
I am just curious why you don't use alternating layers of the half-inch Coosa and fiberglass to get to the same thickness of the surrounding material. Wouldn't that lamination be stronger as well?
I saw that while you were putting on the gelcoat. BTW, love the music!
Hi Andy, greetings from Canada. A couple questions:
- What do you mean the holes go into the flotation chamber? That's not the transom? There wouldn't be water directly on the other side of that? (If the boat was in a lake I mean.)
- Is there ever a time you can't use epoxy? Aside from cost, why wouldn't you? Which resin do you like working with more?
I've been watching your videos for a couple years. Thanks for posting your content! Boats rock! 😎
I'll try and remember to cover this next week, but on the backside of the transom is a platform that has enclosed chambers that add flotation. The platform extends aft about 32" and the engines mount onto this :-)
@@boatworkstoday thanks for the quick reply Andy! Have a good day.
Andy looking good as best as I can tell. I wouldn’t know if you went wrong or not lol 😂 I did use total boat on fuel tank replacement on my 82 wellcraft bc you use it had to mix a little hot had some rain threatening but came out good finished fiberglass work yesterday. Going to try and sneak the tank in from angle and on the side to go under the helm deck I have episode six in camera debating whether to make 6 the end and add installing the tank part of it or make a seven check it out when you can Hooked n Rolling Offshore Thanks JT 🇺🇸🇺🇸🐟🐠🎣🛥🌴⛱😊😊🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻you wife kids and doggies
add the 7th, people always want to see the finish results are working:-)
Thanks for the video. What purpose was the gelcoat used for?
just wondering did you use the white jell coat w/ wax as a guide coat and a hardener ? or just a hardener ?
How can I get some suggestions where a minn kota talon tore out around the bracket.
I have a cut-out template for a Mercruiser Alpha one how far from the bottom do I drill the bottom holes on template plate
Hi Andy, what is the big advantage in using one big pice of cusa? Couldn't you split the pig pice and bond it togheter in the mounting process?
Regards from Sweden. 😊
I'm curious why the Coosa board doesn't have to be the with of the entire transom?
Same here.
@@bontexx1169 it's non structural. It's a core filler. The internal and external glass is the structural element.
Will definitely be stronger if you extend the coosa and bond it to the side walls.
Do you have access from the outside to redrill the holes after the coosa job?
Good Video Andy. Can you explain why you do not want to cut the coosa and patch it? Seems like triple the effort to install as one piece??
Too late for this question, but why to use gelcoat with wax instead of using laminating gelcoat and the polyvinyl alcohol? Wouldn't be better to use polyvinyl alchohol if you are going to keep laying material?
Also, why do use fairing compound instead of more layers of fiberglass, until as close as possible to a flat surface, or at least chopped stranded mat with thickened resin?
Putting the fairing compound in. It's not a structural patch. So the Coosa will be bonding to a non structural area.
Is there any products comparable in the UK and Ireland to those total boat products?
Great work as usual
For holes like that I like to use those yellow foam ear plugs.
What I'm trying to figure out is where are the outdrives going to come out? Isn't the closed area of the bracket going to be occupying the same space?
Do you ever use the gelcoat for a finish topcoat?
As a boat builder, I have a question. Why the gel coat with the wax? Will epoxy not stick to polyester laminating resin? I must have missed the reason in the video. Sorry.
Are you using a fiberglass or aluminum transom? If it’s aluminum can you show the thickness of the aluminum they used? I’m trying to make my own this summer but can’t get measurements or thickness of the materials to pick the right strength.
Good prepping is half the work :) But you missed 2 spots with gelcoat at the bottom though
could use nylon stocking to fill hole
I would have left the holes and used them to secure the coosa during bonding. How are you going to get the first layer of Coosa bonded tight to the transom?
not sure yet, but I'll figure something out lol ;-)!
Sounds like a good idea, but good luck transferring those holes to the coosa. I assume the plan is drill them out afterwards through the bracket flotation cavity. I am sure Andy will rig up some 2x from the first bulkhead pressing on the coosa.
@@boatworkstoday Horizontal braces wedged to a plywood backer on the coosa.
@@boatworkstoday 2 x 4 wedges man, wedges LOL
Fairing compound looks so much easier with this product instead of West system and silica. Andy, any comments would be great.🙏🏻❤🇺🇲⚓⛵
A little confused. You went out of your way to save that trough along the bottom of the transom only to sand it down....?
Could you use foam ear plugs to plug the holes?
No gel coat on bottom center holes
Hi Andy. I have a question can you use pressure treated lumber for stringer?
wooden doles to plug the holes epox in place ???
Would a light skim of that epoxy fairing compound work like the waxed gelcoat, to make the poly laminating resin harden?
Would really like to know your opinion on seacast doing my transom with it steamed better than Coosa board but I'm not a professional
Hey Andy,
Just wondering why you didn't choose to use thickened epoxy to fill the holes? My thought process is too cut loose with thickened epoxy and fill the holes, the "trough". Even fill the side cavity with 50/50 cabosil & qcells, yeh it's a lot of bog, but it's non-structural so just pack it in. That way your coosa is an easy cut & shut. It's your glass finish that will be the structural element, I'd be looking to set that part of project up with more finesse and just smash this prep-work out so you can see what your working with. The glass overlap with the existing would be a critical area to "key in" and maybe spend more time on.
I've got about 40hrs of boat building experience. Once you learn how the materials work it's pretty straight forward, and I feel I'm still a worthy comment. One thing is for sure there's no right or wrong way when it comes to resin. So just take it as a layman's perspective 😀
Love your video's.
Question Andy, why did you use flow coat (GEL coat with wax) on the patches instead of say PVA as means you will have more prep to get rid of the wax. Also for the holes, maybe using a hot glue gun to fill them in, scape off flat and job done :-). Great video as usual.
Hi.
Is it possible to fibreglass/ laminate over MDF. I have a small solid hatch to make up. Wasn't to sure as MDF is very porous. Thanks
Is there any chance that you forgot to apply geocoat over two fiberglass patches on the center, bottom side?
Sh.... happens hu? LOL
I cant wait to see that transom finished!! Keep the good job my friend!!
Why not use foam earplugs for holes
Guess I am going to have to come up there and give you a few lessons on how to use a 12" to 14" taping knife. It doesn't get hard until you get up to a 24 or 36 " plastering knife. You need to learn, just to save yourself a ton of sanding. For the holes, I was thinking corks driven not quite all the way through, would make a good base to fill the holes with thickened epoxy with no sanding needed, better than using paper towels.
Hey Orville! Cork would have been a good option, didn't think of that until you and others commented lol!!
missed some of the holes with flow coat
Looks like you missed gelcoating a few patches - but I still don't grok why you don't fill the holes. Can you show the bracket you are talking about in the next vid?
Excellent Work
Many thanks
Would it be easier to pour a composite instead Coosa board
Boat-painting neophyte here. What's the significance of using gel coat "with wax"?
Foam ear plugs may work.
Yay! 4 am and we're less than 5 hours away from a hurricane arriving but i dont care because i get a new Andy video!!!! (Actually i cant sleep and this little gem of a video will be a welcome albeit brief respite from worry.... and educational too!)
following your example, i used to use gelcoat to seal for curing but here in honolulu gelcoat is rather expensive so i tried using cheap (99 cent) spray paint from walmart. works like a charm!) also... did you miss a couple holes at the bottom?
Stay safe!!
If your sanding it off if it works cool but if painting or laminating on top I wouldnt want cheap paint messing with any bonding of primer or glass.
Andy could you have used Hot Glue to fill the holes ?
Just plug the holes with foam backer rod.
I saw you put two layers of 1708 over one bolt hole and then cover the one you didn't glass with fairing compound. I assume that is what you are referring to.
Hey Todd! The one hole that was close to the top edge of the keyhole I didn't glass because I wanted to get the fairing down; so just decided to fill that one lol ;-) The screw up was that I totally missed gelcoating two of the patches along the bottom :-/
@@boatworkstoday that's what I saw, at the end of the video, you missed the two patches at the bottom between the keyholes. I wondered why you didn't do those, I figured you had a reason.
It would be a million dollar boat by the time its done.
Why not just a bit of glass balloons and resin in each hole? It’s superficial.. you could totally control the amount in each hole.. maybe I’m overlooking something but my end goal is less sanding
What would you think of using SeaCast from transomrepair.net to fill in voids which would be hard to reach with Coosa?
Does coosa crush where the bolts go?
awesome video. keep them coming.
Heehee. You missed two patches with the gelcoat. 😄 About the polyester, I haven’t found any laminating polyester from any “normal” store here in Finland. Actually none of those doesn’t even mention it, they just cure all the way so there has to be some kind of wax in them. But gelcoats on the other hand don’t cure without adding the wax. That’s weird...
Love the channel and videos. Wouldn't it have been easier to just mix in some wax with the poly resin for the patches and skip the gelcoat? Or just use spray foam to seal the holes?
Also, previously you decided to use epoxy for the main buildup because you were unsure of the materials used on the transom previously. But now you used poly and gelcoat for plugging the holes. Seems a bit contradictory. Are you no longer concerned?
Andy do you think there is any merit to glassing the entire transom surface with one layer of 1708 before bedding in the coosa core?
There's already a 1/4" of glass on the outer skin of the transom, adding more wouldn't hurt but don't think it's necessary :-)
It's not necessary, the core is non structural.
Anything wrong about filling the holes with wax?
Ok why jelcoat with waX ?
been waiting patiently for this video.
Why not fill the holes with foam?
Why don't You fill the holes with Epoxy, or Polyester Resin with filler?
wish I could those Alex coatings on my boat but it's not a yacht.
What about wax plugs?
Any reason you wouldn't just fill the holes vs covering?
trying to avoid having any of the filler dump into the bracket :-) Filling the holes with putty likely would have oozed into the bracket
@@boatworkstoday I was thinking more along the lines of dowels epoxied in. Mostly curious if there was a reason behind keeping them open (flex?) vs plugged. Appreciate it.
expanadble earplugs for the holes, to not get resin it them. then drill them out
And you missed the 2 center holes with gelcoat
How many times does Andy say 'coosa' ?
Are you talking about the screw showing about 4:00?
The hole you missed above the one you covered at 12:19?
It was the missing the last 2 glass patches with gelcoat lol :-)
@@boatworkstoday Missed that :) maybe you should do this more you never know we all see things others don't and could prove useful. I kept thinking you were going to cut yourself on the screw I spotted like the previous one that was cut like a razor, especially about 5:24 ish. As ever love what you do and thank you for sharing it with us all.