BEST WAY I'VE FOUND TO TEMPLATE A TRANSOM, BULKHEAD OR WHATEVER!
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- Опубликовано: 2 дек 2024
- So this past week I've had no less than a couple dozen or so folks ask about how to do this, Although a bit on the short side I thought it would be easiest for people to find if this process was a stand alone video. Next week will hopefully be the full install of the core material / Coosa!
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I do it a little differently. I make a scribing wheel with a 3/4 or 1" hole saw in the thin plywood. Take the circular cut out from the saw and stick the pencil or marker through the center hole. I do the corners just like you did but on longer edges put the strip up with a little dab or even just hold it by hand. Run the wheel and marker around the edge for a perfect line. Cut that to shape and glue to the corners. It's more precise and gives a continuous edge to trace against.
This is a great technique to make templates. I had a guy show me this when I worked on boats and like you said, its nice to have hard templates that you can trace around. Since nothing is square or straight this way works sooo well. for templating for simple shelves or gas tanks, it can be used for a multitude of jobs.
I've learned so much from your videos that I'm now attempting to replace the transom on my '83 DynaTrak bass boat. Unfortunately I'm having to reach into the fuel/battery compartment and do it from the inside by leaning over the gunwale (not fun!) Therefore I love you when you show the easiest and fastest techniques on certain things. Now I just need to acquire some of those neat tools that you have. Keep the videos coming.
I did a similar procedure for my SeaCraft ransom, but used popsicle sticks. Yes, it was a little flimsy. When laid on the Coosa it made a perfect template and the core came out great. Also, I left a little room around the sides for the thickened epoxy to adhere core sides to hull sides.
Heavy utility shears work fine for cutting and trimming thin ply, with no sanding mess. They’re fast, too.
Very nicely done! A utility knife works well but I like to use tin snipes to cut arcs or other shapes. For me, the knife tends to grab the grain and go off coarse to easily.
Did the galley countertops in my boat using this same templating method. Worked great!
Great system. You might try one of those contour gauges to get started in the corners.
Glad to see you back. I love watching you.
Very nice. The small tabs to get the long curve are a great tip. Thanks
Fiendishly simple and effective template. Many Thanks for the video.
Great technique, and thanks for sharing this Andy!
Two things. I am surprised you did not use the same method of scribing the op as you did on the corners. second, because I am a novice, i would trace the template onto a 3/4” plywood and fit this 3/4” plywood into place. This would ensure I had the boat where I needed it, and THEN use the plywood as a guide to cut the Coosa.
Really helpful, as ever... :-) Have just cut out the first bulkhead and the anchor locker out of my trailer sailer as the ply had rotted, I'm ready to template to the new ply, and who do I turn to for the best advice? #BoatworksToday... 🙂
Andy, I realize this video was 3 years ago but I am doing a transom on my boat now and rewatching these. Can you tell me what adapters you were using for the festool hose to go to the dust deputy I saw in the background there? Thanks again!
Thanks. Just about to make up door cards for my van, saw the title and was hoping this would work for me. Won't, but some ideas I can use.
Thanks for all the videos.
Very nice Bro - keep up the good work, it looks like it should be a perfect fit.
Nice video Andy. Thank you.
Alternatively, for small stuff you can take a picture of the shape with some objects of known dimensions in the picture (a couple of 5 inches sticks of wood for example). Then edit it in photoshop to compensate for the deformation of the lens. Put it to scale 1:1. Then in illustrator draw the shape. Give the illustrator file to the company to cut plexiglass or lexan with their laser or CNC. It's also possible to print on paper at home and assemble the sheets if the project isn't too big (transom=too big). Cheers !
Andy knows his stuff
Boat building learning stuff = awesome.
Music = awesome.
Transom template looks 👍 good Andy.
very informative and very helpful kind of information you cant find anywhere.. Thanks
Those small glue guns are either 15w or 40w. I have one that is 325w, works great.
That’s one neat template. 👍
That’s a great way to make a template
NO! YES No I want to see ya removing more material. This is so cool. Thank you.
Great idea I can use on lots of stuff
I would use the same procedure when installing teak & holly soles in the Marshall cat boats.
So that's how you do that! 😮
Man, I really need to get me one of those belt shaping sanders. You use it, in every video! I need to find the video about transferring the factory non-skid pattern into the mold. I gotta make a small hatch for the anchor locker. The old one, has gone to see Davy Jones, I reckon. 🌊
I found one........ $600 bucks. If i was doing it everyday maybe...
Could you double post your videos over on Odysee too? We love them!
I just finished the floor and stringers in the back corner of my old 21 ft Four Winns. I never would have been brave enough to do it without your videos! Thank you!
yes
So its ok to not replace ALL the transom wood? I thought it all needed to be replaced as one piece? But you have more wood outboard and above whats your doing right? Almost like you are just replacing the center of it.
Do's weather out side you shop like rain effect your resin. I assume the shop is heated.
You are a better man then me. I would have to use something more flexable without cutting the stringers. 😊
Why didn't you scribe the long edge contours to the long pieces like you did the corners?
I used Popsicle sticks and hot glue. Then used a putty knife to scrape it off the template from the transom
Great ! very helpful
question: why wo UK lent you stack 2 1 in coosa and then make a template to fit the rest around and then 1 large final on top conering all .
Good job, maybe show the guys how to use toothed joggle sticks to create complicated bulk head shapes.?
that's a great process
I use a sheet of lexan so i can see right through it and trace it. Super easy
Hello boaters , does any body know , what sould I use in molding and casting , waxed gelcoat or non waxed ???
Luv the vids Ty👍🏻
Can we please get a shop tour. I'm 27 building a boat shop here in st pete FL. Would love some pointers and advice. You've become a household name in our home with me my girlfriend and your biggest fan our pup mAx
Any one here in the comments with experience please message below. any knowledge or tips are more than welcome I'm more than happy to share or receive experience. Boat building has become a huge passion and I will pursue it for the rest of my life.
Permanent and multiple tic sticks glued to a frame work. That will work.
Where do you get door skins? My lumber yard looked at me like i was from Mars!
Try asking for veneer.
It’s called Luan it’s Pronounced like ( loo on ) it’s 1/4 thick sheet you can basically get it anywhere 4x8 sheet 1/4 thick
Ask for luan plywood, as thin as they got, say 1/8"
I found 2ply at homedepo is very similar if not what he uses. If I can find a link I will edit the comment and add it in
thin luan paneling
I save a lot of Ikea flat-pack cardboard and Amazon boxes to make my templates out of. And I can still recycle it when I'm done.
Try using a scribe for the top next time. Way faster
Pattern making is such a under estimated skill. Luan splinters are the worst.
Ah I was hoping for more.
Instead of the little tabs along the long edge you could set the long strip in place and then use a compass set at the biggest gap and trace the contour. You then sand down to your lines and glue in to place. This is how you contour the back of a cabinet to a wall. Just another way of doing the same thing.
Where do you find your door skins?
Any lumberyard. If they don't have door skins then get flooring underlay. Some carry non-warranty underlay that is 1/4 the price. Cheers.
Where did you get the wood strips? Size, type of wood?
Home Cheapo, Low’s, etc. carry them.
They are just strips that he cut from door skin (or often called utility) panels available at any reasonable lumber store like Home Depot or Lowes. They are usually found with the plywood and are usually good on one side for laminating to old doors or cabinet interiors to freshen them up. They cost about $10 for a 1/8"x4x8' sheet.
He makes them from door skin or very thin ply. (I use a 2ply from homedepo) very cheep and work wonders. You can refer back to some of his earlier videos the teak deck one elaborated more on itruclips.net/video/GkjDLGag6pA/видео.html
I bet those electric sheers would save all that sanding
Really glad your back at it.cheers buddy.
Ps. I need to hit you up on patreon...
Why not use a paper?
A.
Absolute best temple system I have seen. Used the cardboard system and it worked.
This hands down puts that to shame.
Video top notch.
Thanks
Great stuff, Andy..! Your tips are priceless.
That transom was never designed to hang outboards from let alone mount a bracket. You really should carry your new core and glass all the way to the transom corners and tie the glass into the hull sides.
thats the plan ;-)
no need to trim more to get the new core in... just split the core in half and put it in in 2 pieces.
This makes my template/transom job look like a kindergartener did it ... LOL... 😩
I can help with all your templates needs amd can also provide you with kits let me know if you need anything
First South Australia
Not really, us patreon members saw this on friday..
What a cool idea thank you will be using that on my boat this summer Beat the tar out of popsicle sticks
Am specialized in fiberglass and gel coat
When I build a temple 2”wood strips and a hot glue gun