Have to say thank you for the great idea about using the compressed air to get the new gasket setup to go around the piston. Did this yesterday and it worked like a dream.
@@geekontrack the dust cover method proposed worked out great for me. Would it be the same process (using air) for the from caliper piston dust shield??
I just finished rebuilding the rear brakes on my S2000. Don't think I would've tried to attempt without this video, so thank you. Here are few things I learned. 1) The hardest part about this entire process is installing the dust boot onto the body with the piston. Getting the bottom lip seated into the groove of the body is cumbersome. I tried your method of using compressed air to expand the dust boot, but I found the bottom lip would always come loose. This method is also dangerous because it doesn't take much air to make the piston shoot out and possibly pinch or even break fingers. My method is to slide the dust boot over the top portion of the piston and down. You want to slide it down enough where the bottom lip is hanging off the piston. From there, you can work the bottom lip into the body groove. After partially threading the piston, you must inspect the bottom lip for full contact. I used a thin straight pick to push the rubber towards the inside and inspected 360 degrees around. 2) What this video doesn't include is the installation of the retaining ring before installing the main seal, piston, and dust boot so don't forget that. 3) Make sure the lever is already fastened to the e-brake shaft (the piece that accepts the pill) before installing the e-brake internals. Once the spring is compressed via the retaining ring, it becomes difficult to install the lever on the e-brake shaft since it offsets the e-brake shaft just enough where you can't install it. 4) I somehow managed to swap the e-brake shafts into the wrong body the first time I installed, so make sure parts for the left and right brakes are kept together. On the bright side, I'm confident I can rebuild one of these in about 15 minutes now.
So you place the dust boot onto the piston first, with the bottom lip hanging off, you then start to push the bottom lip into the groove using a thin tool but how do you do the last 1-2cm? It obviously becomes inaccessible, do you give it a slow twist for it to go into place itself?
I've just re-watched and I think me doing it is on the cutting room floor! (Although the circlip is definitely in the caliper!) I'll download this as the source as been cleared up a long time ago - and then put a note in at the right point.
@@geekontrack No worries, i was preparing myself for doing it and was wondering if you needed the C-clamp to reassemble that part too. Luckily that circlip is a bit easier to get in to place! Both of my rears were rusted terribly so this was a very helpful video. Thank you!
Spray paint, if you're tracking it, high temp paint is essential. Even with high temp paint, the colour of these went from yellow to burnt orange on the tips.
The rears get very hot. The S2000 OEM fitment is solid rear rotors, and they're thin enough that you can't get aftermarket vented ones without a lot of messing around. As a result in time for 2022 track season I'm switching to a pair of RX8 calipers and a vented Mustang GT disc with mounting hardware from Sakebomb Garage. I really need to get a video together that covers the current state of the S2K.
![Honda Rear Brake Caliper Rebuild // Everything You Need To Know [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0Ynk1_P-VXY/mqdefault.jpg)
Have to say thank you for the great idea about using the compressed air to get the new gasket setup to go around the piston. Did this yesterday and it worked like a dream.
Thank you for NOT cutting anything out, the best parts are the tough parts. I'll be doing this very soon.
Thank you brother!
Just remember to install the second snap ring when reinstalling as Matt notes below
@@geekontrack the dust cover method proposed worked out great for me. Would it be the same process (using air) for the from caliper piston dust shield??
I just finished rebuilding the rear brakes on my S2000. Don't think I would've tried to attempt without this video, so thank you.
Here are few things I learned.
1) The hardest part about this entire process is installing the dust boot onto the body with the piston. Getting the bottom lip seated into the groove of the body is cumbersome. I tried your method of using compressed air to expand the dust boot, but I found the bottom lip would always come loose. This method is also dangerous because it doesn't take much air to make the piston shoot out and possibly pinch or even break fingers. My method is to slide the dust boot over the top portion of the piston and down. You want to slide it down enough where the bottom lip is hanging off the piston. From there, you can work the bottom lip into the body groove. After partially threading the piston, you must inspect the bottom lip for full contact. I used a thin straight pick to push the rubber towards the inside and inspected 360 degrees around.
2) What this video doesn't include is the installation of the retaining ring before installing the main seal, piston, and dust boot so don't forget that.
3) Make sure the lever is already fastened to the e-brake shaft (the piece that accepts the pill) before installing the e-brake internals. Once the spring is compressed via the retaining ring, it becomes difficult to install the lever on the e-brake shaft since it offsets the e-brake shaft just enough where you can't install it.
4) I somehow managed to swap the e-brake shafts into the wrong body the first time I installed, so make sure parts for the left and right brakes are kept together. On the bright side, I'm confident I can rebuild one of these in about 15 minutes now.
So you place the dust boot onto the piston first, with the bottom lip hanging off, you then start to push the bottom lip into the groove using a thin tool but how do you do the last 1-2cm? It obviously becomes inaccessible, do you give it a slow twist for it to go into place itself?
Nice detailed video Rich. Thanks
this video saved me while rebuilding my rear caliper. thank you :)
Painstaking! If nothing else, you convinced me just to buy a replacement
Did I miss the part when you installed the second snap ring (the one that holds the spring in the piston bore of the caliper)?
I've just re-watched and I think me doing it is on the cutting room floor! (Although the circlip is definitely in the caliper!) I'll download this as the source as been cleared up a long time ago - and then put a note in at the right point.
@@geekontrack No worries, i was preparing myself for doing it and was wondering if you needed the C-clamp to reassemble that part too. Luckily that circlip is a bit easier to get in to place! Both of my rears were rusted terribly so this was a very helpful video. Thank you!
Yes, this step I was the one I was most interested in seeing!
What paint did you go for? Brush or spray? Debating colour coding with the car colour, but not sure if high temp paint is essential.
Spray paint, if you're tracking it, high temp paint is essential. Even with high temp paint, the colour of these went from yellow to burnt orange on the tips.
do your back brakes still get hot? like hotter than the fronts ?
they do, it's normal for S2000 rears to run hotter than the fronts, due to less cooling air probably
The rears get very hot. The S2000 OEM fitment is solid rear rotors, and they're thin enough that you can't get aftermarket vented ones without a lot of messing around. As a result in time for 2022 track season I'm switching to a pair of RX8 calipers and a vented Mustang GT disc with mounting hardware from Sakebomb Garage. I really need to get a video together that covers the current state of the S2K.