Good video. Do not re-use any bolts as these are stretch bolts. Nuts should be replaced due to their self locking ability. However, if you don't want to have your wishbone replaced again after a few thousand miles, tighten the new nuts and bolts as follows. Wishbone Balljoint to hub 100 Nm plus 90 deg Lower car to ground (ramp) so weight is on its wheels to set the bushes into the normal position Wishbone to strut 90Nm plus 180 deg Wishbone to subframe 85Nm plus 180deg Do not use an impact tool to loosen balljoint nut as this risks damaging the inside of the steering hub (impact will spin up the balljoint too) as there are ridges in the domed balljoint which will dig into the hub.
A big thank you to the guy posting this video for the easy to follow step by step process and showing the tools needed, and thank you for explaining about the pre load on the bushes and listing the torque settings. Done both sides on my 2010 M Sport today successfully! 👍👍
This video is a good example of why i decided to work on my car myself. There’s no reloading of the bushings done with the vehicle loaded, no torque angle measured on the balljoint nut and no toque wrenches used at all. Great step by step video but that control arm will be toast in no time.
It’s interesting: leaving aside the fact that there is no tightening torque respected.. or the fact that suspension is not loaded before final tightening .. but i noticed that this wishbone was replaced before and in a similar faulty way: the screw to front axle support is inserted wrongly… it must be in the opposite direction (nut faces the rear of the car) according to bmw repair manual. But here the car came to this shop with a faulty installation and of course it was installed in a similar way as it arrived… good video, practical step by step .. thank you for sharing with us viewers or DIYs like me.. but would only help to consult the repair manuals in order to prolongue the life of the parts and why not, secure road safety.
I'm not getting any noise on my 535d but am getting a lot of vibration in the steering wheel when braking. A mechanic said the bushing on my tension strut is cracked. Would that cause the vibration in the steering wheel? I'd like to change the struts myself because he want's $900USD to do it. Thanks
Thanks for watching Worn out bushes, brake disc distortion, imbalanced wheels, track rod end worn-out, inner tie rod worn-out, improper wheel alignment brake pads worn-out uneven, upper control arm bushes or ball joint worn-out, track control or torque control arms ball joints, bad tyres.
That’s a great video. Thanks for sharing the same. I have a quick question, can we change the sturt bush on control arm without removing? My ends and other bushes looks good only strut/tensioner bush is worn and I am getting clunking noise when I go on rough surface. Please suggest whether it is best to go with strut/tensioner bush or change entire controlarm/wishbone. Appreciate your suggestions
You should tighten the bolts under operating load. If you do not it could tear the bushings once load is applied. You should never reuse stretch bolts.
@@stanhopeautorepaircentrewardak Sorry but you are wrong, from Bmw repair Manual- If the lower wishbone is detached from the front axle support, it is necessary after installation to carry out a wheel alignment.
@@alpera.7815 No idea, i didn't use the manufacturer service manual for this task , as i said before the vehicle is still owned by the same customer since then, but he has no complaint about any issue regarding tracking alignment. As i have removed my allegations for not requiring wheel alignment.
Nice video! One remark is: that jou always tighten the suspensionarms with the weels on en car onthe ground because otherwise the rubber in the suspensionarm are under tension when the car is on its wheels.
Agree, thanks for watching our channel 😊, at the time of arm replacement i didn't have up to date bmw service manual, i do have it but it is old version which covers up to 2008. Anyway the car is still doing well no complaints whatsoever so far.
sqeeking when pushing down on the car from the shock points, or when going over speed bumps = bad control arms. that's why he used the stethoscope to further pin point which control arm on that corner was sqeeking.
Good video. Do not re-use any bolts as these are stretch bolts. Nuts should be replaced due to their self locking ability.
However, if you don't want to have your wishbone replaced again after a few thousand miles, tighten the new nuts and bolts as follows.
Wishbone Balljoint to hub 100 Nm plus 90 deg
Lower car to ground (ramp) so weight is on its wheels to set the bushes into the normal position
Wishbone to strut 90Nm plus 180 deg
Wishbone to subframe 85Nm plus 180deg
Do not use an impact tool to loosen balljoint nut as this risks damaging the inside of the steering hub (impact will spin up the balljoint too) as there are ridges in the domed balljoint which will dig into the hub.
Thanks for watching our channel
I will use this comment as a technical data in the future if i have the same car.
Thanks very useful information.
A big thank you to the guy posting this video for the easy to follow step by step process and showing the tools needed, and thank you for explaining about the pre load on the bushes and listing the torque settings.
Done both sides on my 2010 M Sport today successfully! 👍👍
This video is a good example of why i decided to work on my car myself. There’s no reloading of the bushings done with the vehicle loaded, no torque angle measured on the balljoint nut and no toque wrenches used at all. Great step by step video but that control arm will be toast in no time.
Spot on. The sound of tools and the customers wheel bolts hitting the floor made me cringe.
Control arm is one thing.....other people safety on the road is the other....really bad to not use the proper tools
It’s interesting: leaving aside the fact that there is no tightening torque respected.. or the fact that suspension is not loaded before final tightening .. but i noticed that this wishbone was replaced before and in a similar faulty way: the screw to front axle support is inserted wrongly… it must be in the opposite direction (nut faces the rear of the car) according to bmw repair manual. But here the car came to this shop with a faulty installation and of course it was installed in a similar way as it arrived… good video, practical step by step .. thank you for sharing with us viewers or DIYs like me.. but would only help to consult the repair manuals in order to prolongue the life of the parts and why not, secure road safety.
You are right, but do you think it makes a difference that is screw is in the opposite way?
U make it look soooo easy! Good stuff
Thanks for watching our channel
Рычаги надо затягивать при нагруженной машине. Болт крепления рычага к подрамнику вставляется спереди, возле пыльника рейки.
Great video and big help, thanks!
Thanks for watching our channel
I went to the dealership and they said we should replace the lower control arms and some other parts but the noise still came.
Did you load the spring before you tigthen the bolt in the chassi?
I'm not getting any noise on my 535d but am getting a lot of vibration in the steering wheel when braking. A mechanic said the bushing on my tension strut is cracked. Would that cause the vibration in the steering wheel? I'd like to change the struts myself because he want's $900USD to do it. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Worn out bushes, brake disc distortion, imbalanced wheels, track rod end worn-out, inner tie rod worn-out, improper wheel alignment brake pads worn-out uneven, upper control arm bushes or ball joint worn-out, track control or torque control arms ball joints, bad tyres.
Might be a warped disk. You need to test the brake calipers.
That’s a great video. Thanks for sharing the same. I have a quick question, can we change the sturt bush on control arm without removing? My ends and other bushes looks good only strut/tensioner bush is worn and I am getting clunking noise when I go on rough surface. Please suggest whether it is best to go with strut/tensioner bush or change entire controlarm/wishbone. Appreciate your suggestions
Thanks for watching our channel.
Yes you can, if you have the proper tool for it, but the ball joint on this type of arm cannot be changed.
Do you have a link to buy the parts ?
I need upper too I believe 2011 535i x drive ?
Thanks for watching
If you live in the UK, you can get it from GSFCARPARTS, EUROCARPARTS, CARSPARE
thanks for your video.
Thanks for watching our channel
This car have vibration with this control arm damaged? Best regards
Thanks for watching
No, it only had squeaking noise.
WD40 works wonders. No new bolts came with it?
Thanks for watching our channel
No, only ball joint nut comes with it.
No new bolts or tighten to factory torque. Example of how not to work.
You should tighten the bolts under operating load. If you do not it could tear the bushings once load is applied. You should never reuse stretch bolts.
Isn’t it recommended to change both sides so that the new arm doesn’t dominate the other?🧐
Highly recommended if some one can afford it
Do you need to do wheel alignment after this job?
@@stanhopeautorepaircentrewardak Sorry but you are wrong,
from Bmw repair Manual-
If the lower wishbone is detached from the front axle support, it is necessary after installation to carry out a wheel alignment.
@@alpera.7815 No idea, i didn't use the manufacturer service manual for this task , as i said before the vehicle is still owned by the same customer since then, but he has no complaint about any issue regarding tracking alignment. As i have removed my allegations for not requiring wheel alignment.
Top video
Thanks for watching our channel
Nice video! One remark is: that jou always tighten the suspensionarms with the weels on en car onthe ground because otherwise the rubber in the suspensionarm are under tension when the car is on its wheels.
Thanks for watching our channel
Got it thanks 😊
How much does this cost please ..
Thanks for watching our channel
This repair was done more than year ago so i cannot remember how much it was.
Evrything Great but you have done one mistake on tightening.Bmw repair Manual says-
Tighten down screw connection in normal position.
Agree, thanks for watching our channel 😊, at the time of arm replacement i didn't have up to date bmw service manual, i do have it but it is old version which covers up to 2008. Anyway the car is still doing well no complaints whatsoever so far.
Tora spex fot those bolts
That bolt nut is very for chrisfix
WD40 ?
WD40 can't work instead of grease, so the only solution is replacement.
It's was much easy to work after use wd40
Thanks for watching our channel
use w40
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What were the symptoms?
sqeeking when pushing down on the car from the shock points, or when going over speed bumps = bad control arms. that's why he used the stethoscope to further pin point which control arm on that corner was sqeeking.