To anyone doing this - you don't need to take the air chamber off completely. On mine someone replaced the screw for the hose clamp on the right side, so I just removed the 10mm bolt, two cable mounts, and the left hose clamp. Just lift it slightly and you'll have plenty of room.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks for the vid! I would have removed it, but I couldn't get my hand in there to loosen the screw that well, and when I finally did I found they were using some non-standard screw in the clamp itself. Someone had been in there and caused some issues. Now driving to see if I can get the code to come back or if it fixed it.
@@animeee8540 I haven't done it before. You can try. I believe the center is a shared power and each side gets a separate ground to operate that side. Let us know how it goes 👍
If this part was defective, would you expect to receive a P2645 error? I have not dug in to ohm test, but that seems pretty straight forward as a first step.
@@robbalyeat Definitely a P2645 can be from a faulty rocker arm control solenoid. I would expect you'll see it in the ohms. Make sure to check the ohms both cold and warmed up 👍
Yes, it's possible to get both codes at the same time. You can get the part at your local parts store or I like using rockauto.com for some parts if I don't need them right away.
They are called "test leads" or "terminal leads". I have a link in the description to a kit you can buy from Amazon. I also have a short video that shows how you can make your own ruclips.net/video/t9PVPf-Pkjw/видео.html. If you are a serious mechanic the master kit I have is from AESWave.com. Hope that helps 👍
It shouldn't. Usually a burning smell is from something touching the exhaust. You can check to see if you have oil leaks or maybe ran over something plastic that is stuck to the exhaust. Just some ideas 👍
It's not necessary but if you do disconnect the battery it will clear the codes for you. I didn't disconnect the battery and I used the scan tool to clear the codes when finished. So it's up to you
Why not just back probe the harness connection then you can test solenoids without having the open circuit to stop you per oem way? But good informative video none the less. The tube topside of motor the from pcvs , the curve collects moisture and causes rear main seals to fail. I know the engineers that created the 2.5 and 2.4. They actually advise making it straight. And to change the rubber intake manifold gasket to a neoprene to stop the bolts from loosening. 👍
Hey Steve thanks for the comment. Yeah later I thought about back probing with the connector plugged in. And also I'm sure this would have some kind of bias voltage on the wires as well that I could have checked. Thanks for watching 👍
@@brettlawrence9222 there are 3 possible causes. 1. Control valve 2. Wiring 3. Engine computer The most common cause is the control valve. It's up to you if you want to diagnose it with a multimeter like in this video to be sure or just replace it.
To anyone doing this - you don't need to take the air chamber off completely. On mine someone replaced the screw for the hose clamp on the right side, so I just removed the 10mm bolt, two cable mounts, and the left hose clamp. Just lift it slightly and you'll have plenty of room.
Thanks for the tip 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks for the vid! I would have removed it, but I couldn't get my hand in there to loosen the screw that well, and when I finally did I found they were using some non-standard screw in the clamp itself. Someone had been in there and caused some issues.
Now driving to see if I can get the code to come back or if it fixed it.
If my car cuts off while driving .. does this got something to do the intake valve ?
You think I can disassemble the e power it with 12 volts or 5 volts d to test if it operates
@@animeee8540 I haven't done it before. You can try. I believe the center is a shared power and each side gets a separate ground to operate that side. Let us know how it goes 👍
If this part was defective, would you expect to receive a P2645 error? I have not dug in to ohm test, but that seems pretty straight forward as a first step.
@@robbalyeat Definitely a P2645 can be from a faulty rocker arm control solenoid. I would expect you'll see it in the ohms. Make sure to check the ohms both cold and warmed up 👍
Got a question, same issue, same code, changed phasers, oil change later, p16cf changed part, have you seen actual failure on the intake/lifter?
The same thing
so the p16d0 code comes with the p16cf code? im getting both. also could you tell us where you got the part please?
Yes, it's possible to get both codes at the same time. You can get the part at your local parts store or I like using rockauto.com for some parts if I don't need them right away.
did you ohm the new part?
Honestly I can't remember. It wouldn't be a bad idea just to make sure the new part isn't defective.
What are those things you are using to probe called? Not the multimeter probes but the white wires.
They are called "test leads" or "terminal leads". I have a link in the description to a kit you can buy from Amazon. I also have a short video that shows how you can make your own ruclips.net/video/t9PVPf-Pkjw/видео.html.
If you are a serious mechanic the master kit I have is from AESWave.com. Hope that helps 👍
Will this cause a like burning smell?
It shouldn't. Usually a burning smell is from something touching the exhaust. You can check to see if you have oil leaks or maybe ran over something plastic that is stuck to the exhaust. Just some ideas 👍
Did you have to disconnect the battery before doing this?
It's not necessary but if you do disconnect the battery it will clear the codes for you. I didn't disconnect the battery and I used the scan tool to clear the codes when finished. So it's up to you
And what is the main purpose of the intake valve ?
This oil control valve helps with both performance and gas mileage. It should not cause your engine to die.
What would you have guessed on the total cost for this?
Why not just back probe the harness connection then you can test solenoids without having the open circuit to stop you per oem way? But good informative video none the less. The tube topside of motor the from pcvs , the curve collects moisture and causes rear main seals to fail. I know the engineers that created the 2.5 and 2.4. They actually advise making it straight. And to change the rubber intake manifold gasket to a neoprene to stop the bolts from loosening. 👍
Hey Steve thanks for the comment. Yeah later I thought about back probing with the connector plugged in. And also I'm sure this would have some kind of bias voltage on the wires as well that I could have checked. Thanks for watching 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thx for the informative video.
Hey! Is it safe to drive with this code on?
What is the cause of this?
Usually it's an internal failure of the oil control valve.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive how would go about fixing that? Or you dont?? Just install the solenoid and wait for it to happen again?
@@brettlawrence9222 there are 3 possible causes.
1. Control valve
2. Wiring
3. Engine computer
The most common cause is the control valve. It's up to you if you want to diagnose it with a multimeter like in this video to be sure or just replace it.
If anyone isnt aware there was a lawsuit over this, causing Chevy to recall 2014 2.5L's. You can look it up online to see the recall information.
Hey, thanks for the information! 👍
Really?? Interesting. I'm gonna have to look into this. I knew about the brake assist recall from back in 2014, but didn't know about a new one.